I follow you from the heart of France. In fact, I say that you are the best teacher with extensive experience. Thank you for all the educational videos that you provided for us. You deserve appreciation.🏆🙏
Absolutely painstaking work and the result speaks for itself. You are masterful at restoration. I would have taught the piece was unsalvageable but was proven wrong. Thank You for Sharing.
What amazing work, especially filling the areas where the broken pieces were missing. The airbrush painting was also remarkable--really incredible results.
I love these tutorials. I come back to them time and time again and re-watch them. Each time I do I learn something I managed to miss previous. This time I picked up on your explanation of why you apply and sand multiple coats of glaze before painting I’m trying to use masking for the first time and I’ve had a few problems. I remembered you applied masking during this restoration, so I came back to see how you applied the mask. It was very useful, I even bought a load of plastic bristle brushes. 🙄 In this video you use a very high quality brush to paint the horses bridal, may I ask you what make it is please? Shortly after I retired I took up restoration as a hobby after watching a few of your tutorials. I’m making good progress, and absolutely everything I know I learnt from you. Thank you so very much. I hope you will continue to keep producing these, fantastic tutorials. I look forward to seeing some new releases. Until then I’ll just keep rewatching those I already have.
I'm happy to hear that you found my videos instructive. The brush you are asking about is called a "liner" brush. The brand is not important. As long as you get a pro artist quality brush it will serve you well. The one I'm using in the video is a "Royal" brand liner #0 (model SG585).
Great restoration as usual Martin, thanks for sharing your craftsmanship and materials. Wishing you and family a Happy New Year, waiting for your next video. Regards from Down Under
I have learned SO much from your tutorials, Martin! I can't wait to try some of your ideas, especially with parts of repairs that I have struggled with. And, of course, I am now waiting on the supplies that I ordered thanks to your links! I have a question. Do you sand the Sylmasta cold glaze between coats? If so, what do you use? Thankyou :)~ Carolyn in Canada
Yes, I sand between coats. Just enough to roughen the surface. I use MicroMesh sanding cloth, a special kind of "sandpaper". You can get a kit with a range of 6 grits, from 1800 up to 12000. You can find it on line. See the link in the description below the video. Good luck to you!
Hi Martin, huge fan I'm learning so much from you. I want to try restoring some of my broken lladro figures that I kept in the hopes of restoring them. What type of Iwata airbrush do you use, there are so many types. Which type of Micro Mesh do you use again so many choices. Which kind of Golden Acrylic do you use, heavy or fluid, and what are the names of the colors that you use for Lladros. Thank you for your time.
I'm glad you find my videos helpful. I use Iwata HP-CH HK airbrush as my main airbrush. I use MicroMesh abrasive sheets: grits kit from 1800 to 12000, the tan colored ones I use Goldens acrylics high flow acrylics. The key colors to help you get the Lladro colors is to use "titan buff" and "shading gray" to adjust your color mix to the lladro range of colors. Good luck to you.
Hi Martin. Awesome video. I’m learning tons from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m new to restorations and I’m loving it. Quick question, what thinner can I use with Sylmasta Cold Glaze Pro 2? I try to air brush the mix without thinner and it didn’t work. I can’t find the PT146 thinner. Talas doesn’t seem to carry it and MyRestorationSupplies (where I got the cold glaze from) site is out of stock. Your help is greatly appreciated.
MyRestorationSupplies is where I get mine. They are the sole US distributor, as far as I know. You may have to wait until they get a new shipment. The only other place I know to get the thinner is from Sylmasta, but they're in England and it's expensive and slow to get from there.
Hello again :) I saw your note on the video that before you started to paint, you applied 3 coats of cold glaze. The sylmasta cold glaze? Can you explain why, please? Then you finish with 4 more coats of the cold glaze, and you put these coats over the entire figure? Do you micro mesh the entire figure before applying? Thankyou for you help :)
Yes, I'm using Sylmasta Cold Glaze for this. Those first 3 coats are rather light coats, micro meshed between coats. This is to further smooth the transition from the milliput to the original ceramic, making a seamless transition. It also provides "tooth" for the paint to better adhere. The cold glaze coats are applied only to the areas where I'm repairing. It is not applied to the whole object. Final micro meshing is to make a shiny, fade-to-zero coating that blends in with the original glazing.
I’m amazed by your work! Your resourcefulness is incredible…. I have fixed some of my lladro pieces following your advise (nothing big). Can you share which kind of paint and cold glaze do you use please.
Can HXTAL be used to repair earthenware ceramic? If not, what is a better adhesive to use? Also, when you paint, I see you start with 3 coats of cold glaze. Sanding, Then you paint. Then more cold glaze. What if you have a piece that is matte or satin in finish to begin with? Is cold glaze only glossy? Also, I was surprised (happily) that the friskit didn't take off the layer of paint under it when you removed it.
Hxtal is for non-porous ceramics and glass with tight fitting parts. For porous ceramics, I use white glue (Elmer's) or epoxy paste. Sylmasta (the makers of cold glaze) sells a matting agent you can mix into the cold glaze to make it less glossy. Check their web site. Good luck to you.
Hi sir if you don’t mind, can i ask if what other brand of epoxy paste and epoxy putty can i use here in the Philippines? Btw your works are all amazing! 🥰🥰
Thank you very much for the compliment. It is difficult to answer this question since I have no idea what products are available in your country. You could look up, on line, the properties of the epoxies I use and look for ones with the same properties. Good luck in your search.
Hi Martin, thank you for all your advice. I have a question concerning a Lladro Gres figurine. Should I use Hyxtal to put it together and then brown colored A&B putty to fill in the cracks. Thank you.
Yes, Hxtal for the bonding. I use the tan A+B to fill large missing areas and big chips. Small chips and cracks I fill with white Milliput. Good luck to you.
Amazing work Martin. Can you tell how the Hxtyl dried in 1 day because I always leave to cure for like 5 days ? Its too long curing time so I want to cut it down like yours
I use a "hot box" to speed up the curing time. The hot box is an old upright freezer with the freezer mechanism removed. An electric oven element was installed inside the box. The heat is adjusted with a thermostat set at about 140 F. Hxtal in there for 24 hours will speed the curing to where it is not fully cured but the item can be handled. If the Hxtal is already "accelerated" when it is applied to the repaired item, the hot box works even faster. "accelerating" the Hxtal is described in the instructions that came with it. I didn't make my hot box. I got it from the restorer I used to work for. Her husband made it for her. So I can't help you with the details of making one.
I can never understand if a client is paying a fortune to have this piece restored it must have meant a great deal. So once broken how did the owner miss not picking up some rather large pieces? Once restored, is the value of the object impacted much?
Sometimes the item isn't broken by the person who owns it, so they might not be as careful in retrieving the pieces. It's also difficult to tell if you've found all the pieces since you can't see it assembled until it's fixed. Many possible reasons for this. Yes, once the object is broken it is diminished in value. How much depends on the quality of the repair, I would think. I'm not an appraiser.
![[EN]How to bring masterpieces that were once called trash into reality (Flaming June)](/img/n.gif)
I follow you from the heart of France. In fact, I say that you are the best teacher with extensive experience. Thank you for all the educational videos that you provided for us. You deserve appreciation.🏆🙏
Thank you very much! I'm glad you find these helpful.
Absolutely painstaking work and the result speaks for itself. You are masterful at restoration. I would have taught the piece was unsalvageable but was proven wrong. Thank You for Sharing.
What amazing work, especially filling the areas where the broken pieces were missing. The airbrush painting was also remarkable--really incredible results.
Thanks!
Magnificent thank you for sharing
Brilliant and your attention to detail is outstanding. It is an honour to be able to see how you work.
Thank you very much!
What an amazing Part 1, Martin,
I can't wait to see the end result!
Fantastic beautiful restoration, am halfway through, viewing the rest tomorrow!
I love these tutorials. I come back to them time and time again and re-watch them. Each time I do I learn something I managed to miss previous. This time I picked up on your explanation of why you apply and sand multiple coats of glaze before painting
I’m trying to use masking for the first time and I’ve had a few problems. I remembered you applied masking during this restoration, so I came back to see how you applied the mask. It was very useful, I even bought a load of plastic bristle brushes. 🙄
In this video you use a very high quality brush to paint the horses bridal, may I ask you what make it is please?
Shortly after I retired I took up restoration as a hobby after watching a few of your tutorials. I’m making good progress, and absolutely everything I know I learnt from you. Thank you so very much.
I hope you will continue to keep producing these, fantastic tutorials. I look forward to seeing some new releases. Until then I’ll just keep rewatching those I already have.
I'm happy to hear that you found my videos instructive. The brush you are asking about is called a "liner" brush. The brand is not important. As long as you get a pro artist quality brush it will serve you well. The one I'm using in the video is a "Royal" brand liner #0 (model SG585).
Just cleaning up after my 2nd HXTAL application! You’re amazing! Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Best wishes,
Andrew
Wow, I love watching you work. Thank you so much for sharing your talent.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!
Great restoration as usual Martin, thanks for sharing your craftsmanship and materials. Wishing you and family a Happy New Year, waiting for your next video. Regards from Down Under
Amazing!!!!!! Amazing!!!!! So beautiful!!! U are such a pro!!!! ❤️
Thank you very much.
29:33 This is how I mix the putty. I fold the roll in half and continue rolling. And so several times. But I will try your way.
I have learned SO much from your tutorials, Martin! I can't wait to try some of your ideas, especially with parts of repairs that I have struggled with.
And, of course, I am now waiting on the supplies that I ordered thanks to your links!
I have a question. Do you sand the Sylmasta cold glaze between coats? If so, what do you use? Thankyou :)~ Carolyn in Canada
Yes, I sand between coats. Just enough to roughen the surface. I use MicroMesh sanding cloth, a special kind of "sandpaper". You can get a kit with a range of 6 grits, from 1800 up to 12000. You can find it on line. See the link in the description below the video. Good luck to you!
@@marsgitar OK! I will source it out! Thankyou for your help!
Hi Martin, huge fan I'm learning so much from you. I want to try restoring some of my broken lladro figures that I kept in the hopes of restoring them. What type of Iwata airbrush do you use, there are so many types. Which type of Micro Mesh do you use again so many choices. Which kind of Golden Acrylic do you use, heavy or fluid, and what are the names of the colors that you use for Lladros. Thank you for your time.
I'm glad you find my videos helpful.
I use Iwata HP-CH HK airbrush as my main airbrush.
I use MicroMesh abrasive sheets: grits kit from 1800 to 12000, the tan colored ones
I use Goldens acrylics high flow acrylics. The key colors to help you get the Lladro colors is to use "titan buff" and "shading gray" to adjust your color mix to the lladro range of colors.
Good luck to you.
Hi Martin. Awesome video. I’m learning tons from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m new to restorations and I’m loving it. Quick question, what thinner can I use with Sylmasta Cold Glaze Pro 2? I try to air brush the mix without thinner and it didn’t work. I can’t find the PT146 thinner. Talas doesn’t seem to carry it and MyRestorationSupplies (where I got the cold glaze from) site is out of stock.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
MyRestorationSupplies is where I get mine. They are the sole US distributor, as far as I know. You may have to wait until they get a new shipment. The only other place I know to get the thinner is from Sylmasta, but they're in England and it's expensive and slow to get from there.
Hello again :) I saw your note on the video that before you started to paint, you applied 3 coats of cold glaze. The sylmasta cold glaze? Can you explain why, please? Then you finish with 4 more coats of the cold glaze, and you put these coats over the entire figure? Do you micro mesh the entire figure before applying? Thankyou for you help :)
Yes, I'm using Sylmasta Cold Glaze for this. Those first 3 coats are rather light coats, micro meshed between coats. This is to further smooth the transition from the milliput to the original ceramic, making a seamless transition. It also provides "tooth" for the paint to better adhere. The cold glaze coats are applied only to the areas where I'm repairing. It is not applied to the whole object. Final micro meshing is to make a shiny, fade-to-zero coating that blends in with the original glazing.
I’m amazed by your work! Your resourcefulness is incredible…. I have fixed some of my lladro pieces following your advise (nothing big). Can you share which kind of paint and cold glaze do you use please.
Thanks for the compliment. You'll find a list of tools and materials and links to their web sites in the description below the title.
Can HXTAL be used to repair earthenware ceramic? If not, what is a better adhesive to use? Also, when you paint, I see you start with 3 coats of cold glaze. Sanding, Then you paint. Then more cold glaze. What if you have a piece that is matte or satin in finish to begin with? Is cold glaze only glossy? Also, I was surprised (happily) that the friskit didn't take off the layer of paint under it when you removed it.
Hxtal is for non-porous ceramics and glass with tight fitting parts. For porous ceramics, I use white glue (Elmer's) or epoxy paste.
Sylmasta (the makers of cold glaze) sells a matting agent you can mix into the cold glaze to make it less glossy. Check their web site.
Good luck to you.
Hi sir if you don’t mind, can i ask if what other brand of epoxy paste and epoxy putty can i use here in the Philippines? Btw your works are all amazing! 🥰🥰
Thank you very much for the compliment.
It is difficult to answer this question since I have no idea what products are available in your country. You could look up, on line, the properties of the epoxies I use and look for ones with the same properties. Good luck in your search.
Hi Martin, thank you for all your advice. I have a question concerning a Lladro Gres figurine. Should I use Hyxtal to put it together and then brown colored A&B putty to fill in the cracks. Thank you.
Yes, Hxtal for the bonding. I use the tan A+B to fill large missing areas and big chips. Small chips and cracks I fill with white Milliput. Good luck to you.
Martin, this is amazing! What is cold glaze made of? Can you cook it yourself?
Thanks!
Sylmasta Cold Glaze is a catalyst based acrylic coating. No, you can't make it yourself.
@@marsgitar Thank you!
@@marsgitar Martin, could it be car paint? Or is it something else?
@@Svetlana333-g4g It's called: "Sylmasta Cold Glaze". Look it up on line.
@@marsgitar Thanks!
Martin i have a question. Cold glaze apply to the entire surface of the figurine? or only point?
Cold Glaze is applied, usually, only to the area I'm repairing (painting) and slightly beyond. Sometimes it means cold glazing the entire piece.
Amazing work Martin. Can you tell how the Hxtyl dried in 1 day because I always leave to cure for like 5 days ? Its too long curing time so I want to cut it down like yours
I use a "hot box" to speed up the curing time. The hot box is an old upright freezer with the freezer mechanism removed. An electric oven element was installed inside the box. The heat is adjusted with a thermostat set at about 140 F. Hxtal in there for 24 hours will speed the curing to where it is not fully cured but the item can be handled. If the Hxtal is already "accelerated" when it is applied to the repaired item, the hot box works even faster. "accelerating" the Hxtal is described in the instructions that came with it.
I didn't make my hot box. I got it from the restorer I used to work for. Her husband made it for her. So I can't help you with the details of making one.
@@marsgitar thank you for the explanation
3:53 Damascus resin. 🙂
Wonderful work, how do you calculate restoration fees?
Thanks for the compliment.
Sorry, I don't discuss how I calculate prices.
I can respect that. Again, wonderful work.@@marsgitar
Great work! Subbed... :)
Thanks for the compliment and the sub!
40:27 Wire and masking agent? You must have used it in the vase.
😊
24:08 You cut the nails of your right hand. I thought they were long enough to help glue the tape together.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️❤️
I can never understand if a client is paying a fortune to have this piece restored it must have meant a great deal. So once broken how did the owner miss not picking up some rather large pieces? Once restored, is the value of the object impacted much?
Sometimes the item isn't broken by the person who owns it, so they might not be as careful in retrieving the pieces. It's also difficult to tell if you've found all the pieces since you can't see it assembled until it's fixed. Many possible reasons for this.
Yes, once the object is broken it is diminished in value. How much depends on the quality of the repair, I would think. I'm not an appraiser.