1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 247 Transfer Case Assembly
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2017
- Complete assembly of an NP247 Transfer Case. This is the followup video of the Disassembly video. 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
• 1999 Jeep Grand Cherok...
Removal Steps
Step Tasks: Disassemble
1 Remove drain plug and drain fluid
2 Remove four 13mm bolts holding the tail cone on
3 Break tail cone gasket loose with a dead blow hammer
4 Remove rubber plug in tail cone covering the snap ring
5 Spread the tail cone snap ring and remove the tail cone
6 Remove the oil pump tube
7 Remove the 12-point 10mm and 15mm bolts holding the two case halves together
8 Break the case halves gasket apart and separate
9 Remove the magnet
10 Remove snap ring holding the tail cone bearing in
11 Remove the tail cone/output shaft ball bearing
12 Remove the snap ring holding the oil pump on
13 Remove oil pump
14 Remove snap ring holding on the Viscous Coupler
15 Remove "copper" thrust ring that rubs on the VC
16 Remove the Viscous Coupler
17 Remove washer under VC that holds the roller/needle pins in
18 Remove snap holding the front drive chain gear on
19 Remove snap holding the main drive shaft chain gear on
20 Remove both gears and the chain
21 Put towels in the case to cover the planetary gears
22 Remove the geared hub holding the needle bearing pins in
23 Carefully remove the needle bearing pins (47 total)
24 Remove the thrust washer below the needle bearing pins
25 Remove the rod that goes through the shift fork
26 Remove the shift fork pin from the shift cam
27 Remove the Main Shaft along with the shift fork
28 Remove big snap ring holding planetary gears in
29 Mark transmission input cover with to insure oil port hole is properly aligned
30 Remove the four 10mm bolts holding on the main input shaft cover
31 Pry main input shaft cover off at the two pry points
32 Remove snap ring on main input shaft (to transmission)
33 Remove the planetary gears
34 Remove snap ring holding in the main input shaft bearing (transmission)
35 Press the main input shaft bearing out using a properly sized pipe
36 Remove 1-1/8" Nut holding on the front drive shaft yoke
37 Install nut on the front drive shaft and hammer the nut to separate the yoke from the shaft
38 Remove snap ring holding in the front drive shaft bearing
39 Press the front drive shaft bearing out using a properly sized pipe
40 Remove Seals (if desired)
Installation Steps
Step Tasks: Assembly
1 Press the front drive shaft bearing in using a properly sized pipe
2 Install new seals (if desired)
3 Install snap ring holding in the front drive shaft bearing
4 Install the front drive shaft through the case half and front shaft bearing
5 Install the front drive shaft yoke onto the front drive shaft
6 Install the 1-1/8" Nut holding on the front drive shaft yoke and torque
7 Press the main input shaft (transmission) bearing in using a properly sized pipe
8 Install the snap ring holding in the main input shaft bearing (transmission)
9 Install the planetary gears
10 Install the snap ring on main input shaft (to transmission) that hold the planetary gears in
11 Install main input shaft cover making sure to align the oil passage & hole in case
12 Install the four 10mm bolts holding on the main input shaft cover
13 Install big snap ring holding outer ring of the planetary gears in
14 Install the Main Shaft along with the shift fork
15 Install the shift fork pin from in the shift cam
16 Install the rod that goes through the shift fork
17 Install the thrust washer below the needle bearing pins
18 Put towels in the case to cover the planetary gears
19 Carefully Install the needle bearing pins (47 of them)
20 Install the geared hub holding the needle bearing pins in
21 Install both gears and the chain
22 Install snap holding the main drive shaft chain gear on
23 Install snap holding the front drive chain gear on
24 Install washer under VC that holds the roller/needle pins in
25 Install the Viscous Coupler
26 Install "copper" thrust ring that rubs on the VC
27 Install snap ring holding on the Viscous Coupler
28 Install the oil pump
29 Install the snap ring holding the oil pump on
30 Install the tail cone/output shaft ball bearing
31 Install snap ring holding the tail cone bearing in
32 Install the magnet
33 Install the oil pump tube & screen. Install new O-ring and install tube in pump
34 Install a thin bead of RTV silicon on one half of the case clam shell
35 Install the 12-point 10mm and 15mm bolts holding the two case halves together
36 Install a thin bead of RTV silicon on one half of the tail cone
37 Spread the tail cone snap ring and Install the tail cone. Verify the snap ring is in the bearing
38 Install rubber plug in tail cone covering the snap ring
39 Install four 13mm bolts holding the tail cone on
40 Install drain plug and add fluid
39:39 for the tail cone snap ring... So simple. Lightly seat the 4 screws pulling cone housing to rear case half. The bearing will have shoved the snap clip to the rear. Reach in with (your favorite) snap ring pliers, spreading the two legs. Reach in with a flat screwdriver and drag the bearing, which will also be retained onto the shaft, and all with it, to the rear the 1/8" or so needed for the snap ring to be in alignment with the bearing groove. Release snap ring pliers. Snap ring will leap into the groove. Verify seating. Torque 4 screws to final 20ft-lb, install rubber bung plug.
When installing the progressive coupler, use a flat screwdriver to shove all plates to one side, before placing the coupler onto the line shaft. Shoving the plates to one side will make seating the coupler a snap. Verify the coupler is seated far enough down that the thrust washer fits onto is true place, and not above (to the rear) the snap ring groove. The thrust washer fitting centered is verification that the coupler is correctly placed.
Pulling the rear pocket needle roller bearing unit for the forward shaft requires a 36-38mm blind pocket puller.
A 1.5” steel round will suffice to make a puller. Undercut to about 1.3”, leaving a 3/32” long foot, then cut for about 1-5/8” to 2”.
Cutoff at end of undercut, then split this plug, make a suitable shim to force the halves apart, 1/4” piece of HRS will do.
Drill one half plug on end 5/16” and tap 3/8”-16 for the typical HFT slide hammer drawbar.
Cross drill the two halves, off center, 7/32” and use drill bit to tie the two halves together.
Propane torch heat the casting, outside the pocket, and inside, around the pocket.
About 120 slams of the slide hammer will remove even a stubborn bearing unit.
There is a flat round magnet that goes under the oil pump pickup screen, and it will typically keep the pump screen assembly in place. I would be wary of using anything else to keep it in, place or reduces the gap between the screen and case, which could cause oil starvation to the pump and coupler. Other wise, great videos, well explained and executed!
Kudos all around, for excellent information, camera work, lighting, verbal description and more. The fact that you're not a mechanic nor an expert in the field only aids in your ability to communicate the relevant information without getting caught up in jargon or other technical mumbo jumbo. I only wish that you had gone into the planetary gear set as I believe that is where my issue lies. Thank you for doing this and the disassembly video.
You explained very nicely both videos, Teardown and Assembly.
Thank you so much
Thanks to your video support I just tore down my NP247 (2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 165K miles). Inside it looked very clean I noticed some small metal pieces / shavings the size of a pin head in the pick up screen and saw that the top edge of the viscous coupler was "rough" in one 1" spot (as if it nicked up against something metal). I can't see any other mating or "near" surfaces with that same "Scuff". I put the cone back over it to see if there was a "rub" there and nothing. If you visualize a coke can standing upright as if it was the viscous coupler in the bottom clam shell, the "Rub" or "scuff" mark is on the top edge of the coke can where the bead of aluminum seals the side to the top of the coke can. Likewise the scuff on the VC is on that top edge where the side meets with the top. In fact, the "Scuff" was so deep there is a hole in that seam - e.g. it is not closed off. I can provide a picture for your review but how? email? Trying to figure out what it could have possibly hit to clear that up before replacing the VC unit. Any ideas?
AWSOME. Great vids also the one of deassembling. With intel about where to look and how to find. One of the best video on this channel. Again: awsome!
Good video ! Try placing all bearings in the freezer for several hours ! They install very easy that way !
Fantastic video. This is going to help out tremendously. Thanks for sharing.
If you put the bearings or bushings in the freezer, then installation will be much easier!
Great video! Good presentation and order.
Nice video, and some great tips, but...after all that trouble, you should have replaced ALL the seals and bearings. It just makes good sense to do it once it's all torn down that far.
Outstanding, thank you.
hello bonjour from France
i follow your videos, thanks a lot, merci beaucoup.
salutation, best regards
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 inline 6 2wd selective 4wd. When I am driving down the road and come to a red light it starts making a growling noise when I come to a stop the noise goes away when I put it on neutral. The noise also happens when I turn my wheel all the way to the right. I don’t know what the problem is if somebody can help me out. Not that you can only hear the noise from inside the jeep you cannot hear it from outside or under the jeep so it’s even harder to know where the noise is coming from.
I loved your video however I saw one place that you forgot something or it just wasnt there to begin with but there should have been a chain guide that the chain rides on installed with 2 screws in the bottom of the case. Your chain not haveing this will fly off from being too lose at some point.
This is not a viscous coupler. It is multiplate wet clutch.
You don't want to clean those friction plates with brake cleaner.
The expensive stuff is really nothing else than Mobil Fluid 424.
How did reusing the existing clutch pack work out for you? Excellent video. I have no real need to do this, but it was great to watch.
Reusing the viscous coupler (progressive clutch) is working fine. The main goal was to eliminate the annoying bearing whine which we accomplished. It's a kid's work car/jeep and works well for that. We never did any experiments to see if the VC will engage the front wheels if the back wheels start to slip, but it drives fine. You can put a block of wood under the front wheels, lift the back wheels with a couple of floor jacks (so they spin), and see if the front wheels engage and pull the jeep over the blocks. The VC engages when the front and back wheels are turning at a different speed, and disengages during normal driving for better gas mileage.
ribenthroph molotov????
If i ever tried to make a video like this there be a lot of cursing 🤬
Vladimir Putin like this