Note on the edge angle with the plastic: on the edge finish i had, it was actually sliding rather than biting until well past the actual apex angle. the plastic needed more force which i couldn't do to the camera. using stiff card provided a more accurate result of 7-10dps on the thin one and 16-19dps on the thick one
I wish you and a lot of the older knife channels had stuck around a bit longer (no judgment though) to really hit some decent growth because this isn't the type of information you easily find unless you aren't that far off from already knowing it.
I'm certain now, based on your findings Kyley, that if you were to use a thin stock of 14c28n or AEB-L, then give it the edge geometry you are demonstrating in these videos, you would benefit from not only the cutting performance you are showing but also the added toughness these 2 steels afford. It would then be interesting to see how those theoretical knives would work in a bushcraft environment. Assuming one was intelligent enough to not use them for splitting wood.......
A lot of my newer aebl blades were ground like this for those asking for it. In general they were more like 0.005 - 0.010 though but they'd all do these tasks
on chopping wood. a lot of it comes down to overall geometry.. the apex angle is most important for starting the cut, then the geometry helps follow through. if you look at all my big chopping knives and axes that cliff stamp had and tested, they are all still 13dps or less on the apex. they just thicken faster to add support.
As far as production knives with grinds. The Manly Peak and Manly Wasp is probably the thinnest production knife I have at 0.008”. The Microtech LUDT I have is around 0.009” behind the edge. I have a Joe Calton Parer that is about 0.004”-0.005” behind the edge. A Jeremy McCullen Streamside I have is around 0.009-0.010”.
I'm quite happy with knives that come at the 0.010" mark. they are durable for most hard work, but not overly durable. they are thin enough that it is easy to thin them if desired. for a lot of people, 0.010 is probably a good number as you can still be a little rough on the knife. a number of spyderco models i have had in the past were 0.010 - 0.012 and would cut well until you tried harder materials
@@LuisGonzalez-gl4wc its been so long since i had all the spydercos in my hand that i honestly can't remember. i just remember that a reasonable number of them were a lot thinner than other companies tend to come.
If I was cutting those ties off your vice grips I would slide the knife in so that the spine is against one side and then apply leverage, no pulling, no pushing just twist. But it's impressive how the vic still goes through going straight in. But maybe it's too sharp for that job as it cut both like butter. My stones, literally just got here. Time to get to work.
You could do the same here. But if you are twisting you might also be damaging the knife or whatever is tied up. I would also normally put the spine under. Difference is I'd slide the blade in and no prying required
I cut these things all the time and even though my knives are much thicker at the spine...(one of them is 6ml thick), its edge geometry is very thin...it will blast through them so easy...and much much safer.
Note on the edge angle with the plastic: on the edge finish i had, it was actually sliding rather than biting until well past the actual apex angle. the plastic needed more force which i couldn't do to the camera. using stiff card provided a more accurate result of 7-10dps on the thin one and 16-19dps on the thick one
I wish you and a lot of the older knife channels had stuck around a bit longer (no judgment though) to really hit some decent growth because this isn't the type of information you easily find unless you aren't that far off from already knowing it.
This demo makes me question the whole idea of what a 'hard use' knife is. I remember you said once that a 'hard use' knife was just 'hard to use' lol
yes. i stand by that catch phrase
Brilliant 🤣
Good to see you posting again, hope all well with you.
well i just thinned the sebenza to my level of need after this video, slipped and deep cut my thumb.. thin knives cut :D :D
I'm certain now, based on your findings Kyley, that if you were to use a thin stock of 14c28n or AEB-L, then give it the edge geometry you are demonstrating in these videos, you would benefit from not only the cutting performance you are showing but also the added toughness these 2 steels afford. It would then be interesting to see how those theoretical knives would work in a bushcraft environment. Assuming one was intelligent enough to not use them for splitting wood.......
A lot of my newer aebl blades were ground like this for those asking for it. In general they were more like 0.005 - 0.010 though but they'd all do these tasks
on chopping wood. a lot of it comes down to overall geometry.. the apex angle is most important for starting the cut, then the geometry helps follow through. if you look at all my big chopping knives and axes that cliff stamp had and tested, they are all still 13dps or less on the apex. they just thicken faster to add support.
Tuna pie? Oh the humanity!
literally the closest thing to a real pie i can find.. haha
As far as production knives with grinds. The Manly Peak and Manly Wasp is probably the thinnest production knife I have at 0.008”. The Microtech LUDT I have is around 0.009” behind the edge. I have a Joe Calton Parer that is about 0.004”-0.005” behind the edge. A Jeremy McCullen Streamside I have is around 0.009-0.010”.
I'm quite happy with knives that come at the 0.010" mark. they are durable for most hard work, but not overly durable. they are thin enough that it is easy to thin them if desired. for a lot of people, 0.010 is probably a good number as you can still be a little rough on the knife. a number of spyderco models i have had in the past were 0.010 - 0.012 and would cut well until you tried harder materials
@@knivesandstuff yes, the Spyderco models I have found in that range are the Chaparral and the Domino. Which ones did you find?
@@LuisGonzalez-gl4wc its been so long since i had all the spydercos in my hand that i honestly can't remember. i just remember that a reasonable number of them were a lot thinner than other companies tend to come.
If I was cutting those ties off your vice grips I would slide the knife in so that the spine is against one side and then apply leverage, no pulling, no pushing just twist. But it's impressive how the vic still goes through going straight in. But maybe it's too sharp for that job as it cut both like butter.
My stones, literally just got here. Time to get to work.
You could do the same here. But if you are twisting you might also be damaging the knife or whatever is tied up. I would also normally put the spine under. Difference is I'd slide the blade in and no prying required
@@knivesandstuff haha, No, I mean the same thing, twist the hand, not the knife, no prying just cutting as a lever (spine against plastic)
@@8thsinner ah. Uploading a quick one handed follow up
I cut these things all the time and even though my knives are much thicker at the spine...(one of them is 6ml thick), its edge geometry is very thin...it will blast through them so easy...and much much safer.
I mean it's my knife I have in my collection...but it is a ckc bowie 6".