I love this format. Listening to you talk on your expertise while watching you work is far more enjoyable versus stock music. Thank you for the videos Andy! Hope you continue and are successful with all your ventures!
I'm going to be painting the topside of my 16' glassply with Wet Edge in their Flag Blue color, it's really nice to see some good information on this stuff!
Thanks Andy. Thanks to your shows the outside of my Luger Tradewinds 26 is just about finished up. I'm going to be making an entire new interior and sure could use some help on where to go for help getting that started.
I rebuilt a Suncoast 22 from a empty hull with coosa. decks, bait tanks, lockers and casting platform. bonding between layers, I used mat and over it , 1708 with polyester res.
Hi from granbury tx.Andy I'm going to be 70d Feb 15 my son moved to Indiana and left me a stig ray 18ft sport.i been working on for over a year it came with a 3.0 I rebuild all new parts now I'm on the dog house 30x32 laminated 1/2in I put totalboat epoxy resin for watout and 1708 glass I made up peanut butter for the jaunts now im 0n the pant.when I get it the runner had some termites had eat in to some of the runners no it ca.e wath all the heard were but no seats and no dog house and no cushions .I now have seats and pedestals and I'm working o the dog house. Thanks for the help in the fiberglass I need it .this boat is going to go to my grandkids when I'm gone hopefully thay can use it and have fun and remember me hahaa in a good way 😆 thank you for the help
Dynamite Payson, who pioneered "tack & Tape" plywood boat construction, always said that polyester resin and wood (esp. ply) were a very good marriage. He often expressed his opinion that the epoxy industry simply did a good job of marketing. That said, there is no doubt epoxy is a much better adhesive and far more impervious to water, but I think Dynamite's point was that, for the type of boat, polyester/fiberglass was good enough!
Encouraged by your success, I just purchased some Total Buff rubbing compound to refresh some tired gel coat. Always learn something watching you work! Thanks for all your advice.
Hi Andy, Have really enjoyed watching your videos and will check out some TotalBoat videos now that I have subscribed. Some of your work is a little beyond me because I just don’t have the equipment to tackle the big jobs but you have helped me in understanding how to do certain small jobs. I especially liked the replacing deadlights video and did that last fall. Came out real nice! Mostly I just fix things enough to make them work right, prevent future damage and look okay. Here is a project which worked quite well but turned out looking not so good. Will have to fix it someday. So here is my story for your TotalBoat giveaway. So I was filling up the water tanks this spring on my 1984 Ontario 32 and noticed that the fill fitting was completely corroded inside so that the cap didn’t really screw down correctly. Since I had some extra time this spring, might as well replace both fill fittings. They were original. Once I started looking at the job, I decided replace those 36 year old hoses that go from the fitting to the tank. Got some new fittings, pulled out the old ones and realized that the flange of the new fittings were just a bit smaller than the old ones even though the hose diameters were the same. The hole in the deck was too big for the new flange mounting screws to grab the deck! Well, I had saved some floor boards from a decrepit zodiac that looked pretty new and were made of some kind of wood impregnated with an epoxy, I guess. I figured they must be totally waterproof being dinghy floorboards. Anyways two of them epoxied together were just the right thickness of the deck. Using a hole boring drill I cut out a little circle from the epoxied floorboards sized to fit in the deck hole and epoxied it in. Put some silica in the epoxy to make it like peanut butter and just packed it in around the filler piece. Put some tape underneath to hold the filler piece and in case any might try to drip out. It worked pretty well and was rock solid a few days later. I used another hole boring drill that was sized correctly for my new fittings and drilled the new hole through the fitted piece. No problem. Sanded everything down, wiped with acetone and re-bedded the fitting down with 3M 4200 and the screws. Wiped up around the fitting with acetone and called it a day. Getting the hose installed was quite a bear of a job but that’s another story. So where is this all going. Well, once it was all done I surveyed my beautiful repair, and well, it looked like sh*t. It’s kind of a pale yellow and brown all around the fitting. Should have taped around the hole to prevent making a mess and cut off the extra 4200 with a razor when I was done instead of wiping it off with acetone. Ah well, live and learn. Will be more careful when I replace the waste and diesel fittings. I tried scrubbing it, more acetone, FSR but nothing doing. The gelcoat is just plain stained. Oh and this is the good part. When I put the FSR on to try and get out that particular stain and some others, I noticed how white it made that area in contrast from the surrounding gelcoat. So, I decided to do the whole deck and then went over it with a wash and wax. The rest of the deck looks great but it made the fill flange repair stand out even worse. When I get to it, I guess I'll try to sand it out. Or maybe sand it a bit and apply some new gelcoat. Will never get the color to match but the fresh gelcoat will hopefully fade from snow white (or something like that) to a duller white. Will load a picture, if I am able, of this very solid repair, that could well….. be more aesthetically pleasing. Kind regards, Greg Palardy s/v Behaviour
I built a rear firewall in my 31 bertram with 2 layer of 3/4 coosa with a layer fiberglass in between and that rear fire wall is so strong that when I tested it with a rubber mallet it thumped solid no move ment
Awesome video Andy. I've learnt a lot watching you and the advice/opinion is honest and achievable even by a simple DIY. Where are you based in the US. Will order Total Boat products online for UK. thanks 😎🛥
While I don’t think adding a layer of glass between each layer is necessarily a bad idea, all things being equal, if you put all the glass on the outside of the glued up layers of core, it will be stiffer, because the load is being carried the greatest distance away from the center of rotation. In practical terms, this is way a taller I-beam can carry more weight than one that is not as tall.
Hey Andy! This comment/question is in reference to an older video you presented several years ago entitled, "Gelcoat Buffing And Care." Awesome video BTW. I'm presuming that Gelcoat is Gelcoat, but then again, I'm a newbie when it comes to Gelcoat. We've recently purchased an RV with a Gelcoat coated roof that doesn't look like it has ever been maintained. It's rough/pitted, oxidized, and looks like it's peppered with mold spots. My thoughts are to strip and redo. What do you think would be the best path to take, and do you have any videos where you've done such a drastic repair? Thank you.
Hello! I called total boat and was told you can’t buff it and if you need to , you should recoat it with wetedge… they also don’t sell a polymer sealant. I have already wet sanded it to 2000 grit … do you have a suggestion of what sealant I should use with wetedge? I am NOT painting it again! 😂🤣🤦🏻♀️ The reason I wet sanded it was because I tried EVERY way possible to apply this paint without spraying and it doesn’t self level how I would like it to. The only way to get it completely smooth is to wet sand it. So! That’s where I am 😅 hoping you can help me out here 🙏🏻😄
Not at all! But with recent events and so many folks looking for help on their own projects that's where my time is being spent. As mentioned in the video this will eventually slow back down and I'll be able to get back on task with the Bertram :-)
Andy, I need your help. Ive got an old 1995 sea ray 175 bowrider sterndrive im redoing the interior. It came with back to back lounge seats. I want to put buckets in their place. What do I need to do to support the pedestal as the floor seems too weak. It seems to have two beams where the bases mount but should i try beef it up first? Thank you for all you do!!
Andy, Found your channel a few months ago while looking for info on buffing my fiberglass travel trailer. I subscribed and am enjoying the videos. Eager to see the Moppy when it’s finished. Have a very simple question. I have a new boat (2019) and have gotten a few little chips (1/8”) in the white non-skid. Just want to dab a little white touch-up paint on them. What would you recommend?
Hey Andy! I've been working on restoring a Boston Whaler 15 ss. It being my first ever restoration I've gone through some learning experiences working in outdoor conditions. But I started using wet edge for the bottom paint and was going to use it for the top before I researched that it wasn't capable of staying submerged. Recently I switched to using Alexseal for doing a non skid and the top deck and their clear coat on the bottom. Would you still recommend using that polyester sealing resin from total boat to finish the bottom paint or do you think that the alexseal clear coat be okay?
andy thank you for everything that you do for the boating and diy community.
Dude thank you so much! You are literally the only person online with any information on buffing total boat wet edge!!
I love this format. Listening to you talk on your expertise while watching you work is far more enjoyable versus stock music. Thank you for the videos Andy! Hope you continue and are successful with all your ventures!
"Listen to what I'm saying, AND watch the thing I'm doing but not talking about."
Loved the sand paper trick; new one for me.
I'm going to be painting the topside of my 16' glassply with Wet Edge in their Flag Blue color, it's really nice to see some good information on this stuff!
Thanks Andy. Thanks to your shows the outside of my Luger Tradewinds 26 is just about finished up. I'm going to be making an entire new interior and sure could use some help on where to go for help getting that started.
dude im a few months late but your vids are definitely helping me get on the water thank you
I rebuilt a Suncoast 22 from a empty hull with coosa. decks, bait tanks, lockers and casting platform. bonding between layers, I used mat and over it , 1708 with polyester res.
Hi from granbury tx.Andy I'm going to be 70d Feb 15 my son moved to Indiana and left me a stig ray 18ft sport.i been working on for over a year it came with a 3.0 I rebuild all new parts now I'm on the dog house 30x32 laminated 1/2in I put totalboat epoxy resin for watout and 1708 glass I made up peanut butter for the jaunts now im 0n the pant.when I get it the runner had some termites had eat in to some of the runners no it ca.e wath all the heard were but no seats and no dog house and no cushions .I now have seats and pedestals and I'm working o the dog house. Thanks for the help in the fiberglass I need it .this boat is going to go to my grandkids when I'm gone hopefully thay can use it and have fun and remember me hahaa in a good way 😆 thank you for the help
Of all the things I took away from this the way you folded the sandpaper caught my eye lol. I've never done that before.
I check totalboat and jamestown everyday hoping that the totalbuff will be back in stock!
Dynamite Payson, who pioneered "tack & Tape" plywood boat construction, always said that polyester resin and wood (esp. ply) were a very good marriage. He often expressed his opinion that the epoxy industry simply did a good job of marketing. That said, there is no doubt epoxy is a much better adhesive and far more impervious to water, but I think Dynamite's point was that, for the type of boat, polyester/fiberglass was good enough!
Encouraged by your success, I just purchased some Total Buff rubbing compound to refresh some tired gel coat. Always learn something watching you work! Thanks for all your advice.
Hi Andy,
Have really enjoyed watching your videos and will check out some TotalBoat videos now that I have subscribed. Some of your work is a little beyond me because I just don’t have the equipment to tackle the big jobs but you have helped me in understanding how to do certain small jobs. I especially liked the replacing deadlights video and did that last fall. Came out real nice! Mostly I just fix things enough to make them work right, prevent future damage and look okay. Here is a project which worked quite well but turned out looking not so good. Will have to fix it someday. So here is my story for your TotalBoat giveaway.
So I was filling up the water tanks this spring on my 1984 Ontario 32 and noticed that the fill fitting was completely corroded inside so that the cap didn’t really screw down correctly. Since I had some extra time this spring, might as well replace both fill fittings. They were original. Once I started looking at the job, I decided replace those 36 year old hoses that go from the fitting to the tank. Got some new fittings, pulled out the old ones and realized that the flange of the new fittings were just a bit smaller than the old ones even though the hose diameters were the same. The hole in the deck was too big for the new flange mounting screws to grab the deck! Well, I had saved some floor boards from a decrepit zodiac that looked pretty new and were made of some kind of wood impregnated with an epoxy, I guess. I figured they must be totally waterproof being dinghy floorboards. Anyways two of them epoxied together were just the right thickness of the deck. Using a hole boring drill I cut out a little circle from the epoxied floorboards sized to fit in the deck hole and epoxied it in. Put some silica in the epoxy to make it like peanut butter and just packed it in around the filler piece. Put some tape underneath to hold the filler piece and in case any might try to drip out. It worked pretty well and was rock solid a few days later. I used another hole boring drill that was sized correctly for my new fittings and drilled the new hole through the fitted piece. No problem. Sanded everything down, wiped with acetone and re-bedded the fitting down with 3M 4200 and the screws. Wiped up around the fitting with acetone and called it a day. Getting the hose installed was quite a bear of a job but that’s another story. So where is this all going. Well, once it was all done I surveyed my beautiful repair, and well, it looked like sh*t. It’s kind of a pale yellow and brown all around the fitting. Should have taped around the hole to prevent making a mess and cut off the extra 4200 with a razor when I was done instead of wiping it off with acetone. Ah well, live and learn. Will be more careful when I replace the waste and diesel fittings. I tried scrubbing it, more acetone, FSR but nothing doing. The gelcoat is just plain stained. Oh and this is the good part. When I put the FSR on to try and get out that particular stain and some others, I noticed how white it made that area in contrast from the surrounding gelcoat. So, I decided to do the whole deck and then went over it with a wash and wax. The rest of the deck looks great but it made the fill flange repair stand out even worse. When I get to it, I guess I'll try to sand it out. Or maybe sand it a bit and apply some new gelcoat. Will never get the color to match but the fresh gelcoat will hopefully fade from snow white (or something like that) to a duller white. Will load a picture, if I am able, of this very solid repair, that could well….. be more aesthetically pleasing.
Kind regards,
Greg Palardy
s/v Behaviour
I built a rear firewall in my 31 bertram with 2 layer of 3/4 coosa with a layer fiberglass in between and that rear fire wall is so strong that when I tested it with a rubber mallet it thumped solid no move ment
Great video Andy!
Awesome video Andy. I've learnt a lot watching you and the advice/opinion is honest and achievable even by a simple DIY. Where are you based in the US. Will order Total Boat products online for UK. thanks 😎🛥
While I don’t think adding a layer of glass between each layer is necessarily a bad idea, all things being equal, if you put all the glass on the outside of the glued up layers of core, it will be stiffer, because the load is being carried the greatest distance away from the center of rotation. In practical terms, this is way a taller I-beam can carry more weight than one that is not as tall.
Great video, thank you!
Andy nice channel great tips. If you were going to wet sand heavily oxidized gelcoat to buff/polish would you start at 2000 or go up from 1000
Can you touch up a spot with one part total boat topside paint? Im talking about just one spot, then sanding, buffing, blending into old paint.
Hey Andy!
This comment/question is in reference to an older video you presented several years ago entitled, "Gelcoat Buffing And Care." Awesome video BTW. I'm presuming that Gelcoat is Gelcoat, but then again, I'm a newbie when it comes to Gelcoat. We've recently purchased an RV with a Gelcoat coated roof that doesn't look like it has ever been maintained. It's rough/pitted, oxidized, and looks like it's peppered with mold spots. My thoughts are to strip and redo. What do you think would be the best path to take, and do you have any videos where you've done such a drastic repair? Thank you.
I may have missed it but which method had a better finish with the Wet Edge paint, rolling or rolling and tipping?
Been waiting for the answer to this question since he put out the first video
I agree we stayed with the mystery lol
I guess we will never know!
Does your compounding pad ever get saturated if you buff a whole boat? Do you wash it and reuse it? Love the videos!
Hello! I called total boat and was told you can’t buff it and if you need to , you should recoat it with wetedge… they also don’t sell a polymer sealant. I have already wet sanded it to 2000 grit … do you have a suggestion of what sealant I should use with wetedge? I am NOT painting it again! 😂🤣🤦🏻♀️ The reason I wet sanded it was because I tried EVERY way possible to apply this paint without spraying and it doesn’t self level how I would like it to. The only way to get it completely smooth is to wet sand it. So! That’s where I am 😅 hoping you can help me out here 🙏🏻😄
no Bertram again. have you given up on it
Not at all! But with recent events and so many folks looking for help on their own projects that's where my time is being spent. As mentioned in the video this will eventually slow back down and I'll be able to get back on task with the Bertram :-)
How did the 3m perfect it go?I missed it
In most of your test the failures was in the Coosa, considering this wouldn't G10 possibly be better?
what are you spraying on that 400 ?
I missed the buff on 2 part paints...have a link?
What brand buffer do you use? Asking because I think the makita is pricey
Andy, I need your help. Ive got an old 1995 sea ray 175 bowrider sterndrive im redoing the interior. It came with back to back lounge seats. I want to put buckets in their place. What do I need to do to support the pedestal as the floor seems too weak. It seems to have two beams where the bases mount but should i try beef it up first? Thank you for all you do!!
Andy, Found your channel a few months ago while looking for info on buffing my fiberglass travel trailer. I subscribed and am enjoying the videos. Eager to see the Moppy when it’s finished. Have a very simple question. I have a new boat (2019) and have gotten a few little chips (1/8”) in the white non-skid. Just want to dab a little white touch-up paint on them. What would you recommend?
Touch it up with gelcoat. He has videos on it.
Can coosa board be used for an I/O transom?
Hey Andy!
I've been working on restoring a Boston Whaler 15 ss. It being my first ever restoration I've gone through some learning experiences working in outdoor conditions. But I started using wet edge for the bottom paint and was going to use it for the top before I researched that it wasn't capable of staying submerged. Recently I switched to using Alexseal for doing a non skid and the top deck and their clear coat on the bottom. Would you still recommend using that polyester sealing resin from total boat to finish the bottom paint or do you think that the alexseal clear coat be okay?
I can hear grit stuck in your wet and dry paper, you should clean the paper as well as the surface..
TRANSOM!
💯😎👍⭐🍻
sure a lot of panels being painted here
🇵🇱 1 part paint 😂😂😂
Mate, I love you, but we need more real boat repairs and progress. This just isn't buttering my bread.
Dude check out salty old sea dog hes traveling the world solo sailing on a small sailboat i bet youd like it