80S Land Cruiser door panel removal and lock fix
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- Опубліковано 1 січ 2014
- Hey guys, wanted to get this video posted as I've read on several forums of folks having doors that don't unlock or lock with the rest of them. I had a rear door which was doing this exact thing - would only lock or unlock about 50% of the time. Was able to just fix the one I had, and avoid the high price of a new OEM actuator. Check it out and let me know what you think. Take Care, Clay
UPDATE - May 25th, 2015 - Lock is still working! - Навчання та стиль
6 years later and these videos are still helpful - thanks for helping me save some money! Also cool to see you have your son helping out too.. start em young!
Wanted to thank you for this. I cleaned up my actuator a few months ago and it has been working flawlessly ever since. Not sure why I ever waited so long to do this.. Super simple.
lastresort576 - that’s awesome. Glad to help.
Solved the question right away. I was stuck on how to get the actuator out.
I used your video to guide me in my oil pump gasket change out...AWESOME! It went flawlessly. I appreciated the trick for loosening the flywheel bolt, as well as the tool list. Great job and THANKS👍
troytsk - You are welcome! Glad it helped you man, take care, Clay
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Thank you. Ive referenced this video a few times to work on lock and window mechanism.
Great, clear steps and good explanations, thanks and well done.
was stuck til i watched this video and saw the latch part. !! thanks
Dude, your FJZ videos are really helpful! I have this and the oil ump cover seal, front main seal, etc to fix on mine. Thanks again! Joseph
J Aragon - you are welcome J, I'm trying to keep them coming, have some simple maintenance ones on the way and working to recover my front row seats now. That Video will be a good one. Take care, Clay
I messed around with the motors inside the actuators for a bit, but unfortunately the motor wasn't my problem. The issue with mine was that the opposite end of the actuator where the metal part meets the door mechanism was slipping. The grey plastic gear wheel drives a little plastic black piece, and that little black piece was slipping on the metal, causing the lock to not actually move when the motor was engaged. Sucks because the Aisin lock actuators are over 60 bucks a piece, and I needed 3 total for the two rear doors, and the rear hatch. Regardless, love the video, it was very helpful in taking the door apart and diagnosing the problem.
Brian Lee - I think I’m following you on your issue. I’m a visual learner (thus all the videos) so a picture would probably help me get it. Plus it’s been a few years since I had mine apart. My hatch finally stopped locking/un-locking so I have to go into mine. Was that a difficult one to get to? Any tips? I’ll be sure to video my hatch lock fix for a good follow up video to this one. Thanks for the comments! Clay
@@Texasknowhow drill into the plastic collar & metal rod & use a lock pin to stop it slipping, nearly all mine have cracked & slip. a small nail works well.
Mine did that here’s how I fixed it.
Needle nose plies around plastic that is broke and put the handles in a vise to hold the part tight and to free up your hands. Get a very small zip tie and start it until it’s one click smaller than the round plastic. Now slip it onto the part. You then can release the vise and bam it is fixed and will be super tight on the shaft it slips on.🤛🏻
Great video..
Thanks! Great information. I was able to replace the motor on the back seat doors, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the actuator from the front door frame. Does anyone have videos for the front doors?
In really cold weather my driver's side back door still hickups every once in a while. I think I'll replace that motor as you did. Where did you purchase one and did it have the right shaft on it? How did you secure the little gear on the shaft? Thanks for the post, glad the video helped you out man, Clay
Great vid. I find it useful to know how to remove the door panels. Do the clips on the panels break at all when pulling the panel off the door?
None broke but a couple did stay in the door and the part in the fiber board door panel pulled trough. Try to avoid this obviously. Use a door panel removal tool or something flat to get very near each one to pry it out. Also watch my video on the Front door Speaker install for how to get the front door panels off.
Cool video thanks
Awesome 👍
My 91 80s right rear door isn’t latching at all. I just acquired this vehicle from the previous owner who had screwed the door shut. I removed the screws and bungee corded it shut when driving because when turning it’ll swing open. Is this simpler to diagnose the latch not engaging or do I need to remove the door panel too?
I’d pull the panel and have a look in there. Something is wrong
Do you have any videos on troubleshooting the power windows on an 80 series LC? My 93 has a window stuck in the down position. I disconnected the glass from the regulator arm and propped it up w/ a 2 x 4. How do I know if I need a new switch, regulator, etc?
Thanks - PK
I haven't worked on any of my windows yet, but would start by seeing if you have power on any of the window control wires with the key turned on. If so, toggle the switch and check for power at the window actuator motor. If power there, then burned up actuator motor, if not, debug why no power. Sorry not much help. Clay
Texasknowhow Clay - turned out it was a bad switch at the door. Of course I had already replaced the motor before I figured it out. Oh well. New motor, new switch - the window works great. Next will be the distributor o ring and the oil pump gasket. Keep doing what you're doing. You're helping a lot of DIYers.
Thanks.
Hi there. My windows in the middle row are stuck in the down position as well. The X arms that move it up and down won't stay in the wheel track. Any ideas? Thanks!
Clay, is your door lock still working correctly after almost 1 year? My rear passenger door lock on my 80 series isn't working so I'm hoping this is the solution. Very helpful video, thank you.
Yes! Still going strong. No problems what so-ever. Thanks for checking. I think the work I did on the actuator was a good fix.
Texasknowhow Good to know. I will be doing the same fix soon. Thanks again.
The arm/bar connected to the handle is super stuck on mine even after I've taken off the yellow clip. Is there anything special you did to get that off? I think I'm going to have to remove the entire handle.
I don’t recall having to do anything special… do you think a little Lube of some kind might free it up?
How did u remove the rod that was part of the door lock actuator? I did not see that in the video
Hamad Khan - It’s been a while Hamad, but I think the rod has clips that snap up (sort of hinge up) then the “L” end can come out. Hope that makes sense.
@@Texasknowhow thanks I will give it a try
Lots of detail. I have the issue, not sure I have the time or tools though!
You can do it for sure. Good Saturday job. Just take your time and work through it. Mine are still working!
Hey Clay, are these still holding up? There wasn't much brush material left on that motor, so I'm interested in finding out if it still works.
Kimo Clyde - that one lasted about 2 years and now it’s about 50% depending on how cold it is outside. I have new little motors ready to go in. I should make a “Part 2” video.
Texasknowhow Yeah, I have some new mabushi motors and I'm wondering if maybe we can just use the end cap (with new brushes) on the old motor with the factory shaft.
Just found out the end caps are different than the factory ones. The replacement motors also do not have the terminals coming out of them(where the power leads are soldered) like the factory ones have.
Kimo Clyde - Aw man... let me know what you end up doing.
@@Texasknowhow I found some AIsin models on Rock Auto for $39 each! I ordered both rear doors and hope fully I'll be good for another 20 years or so. According to someone on MUD, the P/N's are DLT088 (DLT-088) and DLT089 (DLT-089).
How do you get the lock fitting out? Yours just vanishes between 2:14 and 2:17
Peter Hello, I watched back and I’m not sure what you are referring to man. Sorry.
look at the inside door handle/lock... just above your left elbow. It's very difficult to get out. In your video it just vanishes.
Remove philips head screw, then pull the trim piece out while pulling on the door handle. It comes out by pulling it towards the front of the car.
got it now - tnx
Hi, don't you know,the front door lock is repairable?
alexv033 Sure I do. Mine wasn't having a problem...
thank's, it's repairable
thanks mate. I'm going to use info from this to help me piss fart around with my 100 series..
fruckler bullpit - I thought the 100s were less prone to this issue. Man, I guess I have it coming on our ‘03... thanks for the comment brother.
@@Texasknowhow I wish! the door that stuffed up on me is right rear. I tried freeing it up and now the striker is stuck in the closed position with the door open. I can't shut it. I'll suss the wreckers out tomorrow.
@@Texasknowhow the eighty series looks a hell of a lot easier than the 100. everything is all cable, only one rod.
I managed to disengage the mechanism. opened and shut the door three times then it wouldn't open again. lucky I had the door card off still. I found a spot I could stick a small blade screwdriver and it opens! I just need a new mechanism now.
a pencil eraser works great for cleaning motor contacts...
+DAN THMAN Agree Dan, I've used them for that purpose as well. Thanks for the comment and for watching, Take care, Clay
I did all motors locks on my LC100 I suppose that someone have motors for FZJ80
What I did in this Video lasted about a year. Replacing the little motors is the best fix as you say. I found some on EBay.