Doors have always been one thing I loved doing in my remodeling days. One thing I always found was to reverse the shims so they are flat all the way behind the jamb and not wedged creating the jamb to twist a bit. This is especially helpful in old house remodeling. The hinge side is more sensitive to this because it can create the door to swing open on its own or shut instead of how your door looks when done. (If you open a door, it should stay in any position you leave it). Some of our areas, spring loaded hinges are code for fire rated doors so they shut in case a fire and you don't shut it secure. I also only use fiberglass insulation over any spray foam ( my preference) on entry doors so they don't accidentally get expanded and cause the margin to change. Thank you Josh for this wonderful door project.
Hey David! Yes overlapping the shims to make flat is a good idea. I do that a lot of times and sometimes I just forget to do that. I have noticed a lot of people have strong opinions against spray foam. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting. I helps the channel out a lot and I enjoy hearing from my subscribers!
i thought shims were a ramp? How could you possibly have them flat if they are, by nature, wedge shaped? (besides stacking 2 on top of each other to create a rectangle?)
@@tightirl if you reverse one with the thinnest part on the thickest of the other, they become flat if needed. To enlarge the thickness, you still push one in further than the other.
Hello Josh, When placing shims on a new door, it's necessary to install them (a pair) so that "the wafer thin sides of both shims" are pointing inwards toward the center of the door frame.
Man because of you I have decide to do a lot of the inside work of my shop myself. I need to redo the two outside doors since they did a crap job installing them.
That is so cool! Sometimes if you want the job done right you have to do it yourself. I have learned that throughout my years of construction. Good luck on your projects!
I appreciate it. I just record exactly what I do each time I install the door. Of course there a nuances that are a little different each door. But they are all very similar. Thanks for watching!
I've installed door with the screw behind the weatherstripping too to hide it and had it work fine. Thermatru says not to do that because it the thinnest part of the jamb. The last one I installed (a door going into an attached garage) I screwed it through the thickest part of the jamb and just mudded the screws to hide them. Paint he jamb (the factory paint is crap anyhow) and you never see them. Good vid, thanks!
(For the DIYers.) Respectfully sharing if I may please. A door shouldn't be glued to the subfloor. If for whatever reason the frame needs to be replaced in the future, removal of the threshold is going to rip out subflooring right along with it. Furthermore, there's a high probability that finished flooring (Tile, hardwood.) is subject to collateral damage. Let me add, Liquid Nail is one of the most flammable building products used in construction. It ignites nearly as fast as gasoline. If adhering the threshold to the subfloor is a concern, use a fire rated sealant. There's a variety from 3M, Dap and Loctite. 😊Don't rely on your eagle eye 🦅. Once your door is preset and you're hands free, add the knob and latch hardware. Beyond reveals, MFGs can get their bores misaligned. No matter what the reveal is doing, the door must latch and lock. As far as setting the door on the latch side, use a "Trim Head Screw" behind the weatherstripping throughout. With a trim head screw it's so much easier getting your reveal correct. If you must use nails I have a couple of concerns. Go ahead and nail outside your weatherstripping (Jamb.). You don't want to pecker mark weatherstripping on a special ordered fire rated door. Also, don't fully sink a nail until you know your door is locking and shutting properly. You'll have a cussword moment if you have to dig or cut your nails out to readjust your frame. As he said, he got lucky with his first placement. But, once all is aligned and the door is locking and shutting, pilot hole and countersink for your larger screws. Don't overtighten so you don't throw your reveal and latches out of alignment...There's not much more to setting a prehung door. I'll add that on heavier slabs with glass, take to slab out of the frame to set the door. You'll thank yourself.
Thanks a lot Amazing Framer! I’m still blown away I got 10,000 subs let alone 105,000! I appreciate your support along the way. You are one of the first viewers. Thank you for that!
Make sure ya mention to use the right spray foam. Have seen some of my friends “Start” projects before i get there to help and with doors and windows, they grab the mega expansion foam, creating bulges, it was a mess. Like the idea of the deck screws. i never use the ones that come with the doors, and like to have 3-1/2” min in length Q). No gap on threshold with the shim when you raised it, or did you do a “fill” of some type for the gap? Asking as last time i got a “big box” door, it was so cheaply made, and i had to level the bottom and had 3/8” gap. was creating a problem with flimsy material. (squeezed some mortar under it as it was bending. mortar worked good. just another headache. (that’s renovations for ya. thanks for tip on deck screws. 👍👍
Hey Preston! Wow sounds like though code there is way different than the codes here when it comes to fire rated doors. That’s why I love UA-cam is because you learn from people all around the world. Thanks a lot for your input!
If you look, the top and bottom hinges have the auto close spring loaded hinges on this door. Most garages have them so the door will close automatically in case of a fire. If its fire rated but the door doesn't close it could allow the flames to go through the door opening.
Hello Josh, Thank you for your great training video. I need to use 20 minutes fire rated interior door between the basement and the main floor as per city requirement. Where to find and buy these types of door?
“All I ask is you smash that like button for commenting and liking these awesome vids for free and keep doing you all day everyday!” - me Seriously great Josh!
Seems to me that every time I have loaned out t my equipment or tool they come back either damaged, broken or otherwise in need of the trash can! 😵💫 I use a 5-way blade or a 3" putty knife to pull back the seal on the door to drive a screw,. While holding the seal back with the putty knife I can protect the seal while driving the screw past it without damaging the seal. Typically I don't pre-drill for the screws behind the seal as the door frame lumber is usually pretty fresh. more so now than ever as manufacturers are using composite for the door frames where pre-drilling is pretty much moot point anyway. Also an upgrade to the putty knife, I use is to use a long sleeved bit driver holder to slide over the screw so the screw threads do not tear up the seal when driving it in.. I just pull back the sleeve far enough to see where the screw is at in the driving process.. When shimming the latch lock side I also use a wider cedar shim so when I install spray foam insulation, I do not have to wait for the foam to cure and then clean out the mortise receiver hole... I also use a water spritzer to accelerate the spray foam insulation cure time (be sure to check the manufacturer recommendations on your product packaging) - as the side note: some brands of foam insulation will cure mostly outside with this technique while the interior curing is much slower - be mindful and pay attention - always install gloves - and - have acetone and a clean up rag handy before starting any spray foam insulating. Perhaps I am overkill, but I do use the fire rated spray foam insulation in fire doors.. I don't like to have any questions when I am done with this kind of install. In my jurisdiction, the hinges need to be self-closing and a magnetic seal is also required here. Kudos for the once and done install - it's a rarity in the real world as "sometimes door slabs are warped? - you mean 99.9% of the time! - and or the frame is a hot mess with replacements! 👍👍
That’s a good idea to use the putty knife to pull back the weatherstripping. Thanks for that! Yes using fire rated spray firm is probably the best option but I’ve never had an inspector check for that because clearly it’s behind the trim. Definitely not a bad idea. Yes always check manufacturer recommendations when doing anything. Sometimes it doesn’t seem necessary but often times it’s for a good cause. How do you get a little creative from time to time and do things a little different but that’s my style lol. I appreciate your awesome response. Thanks a lot for watching!
1. You used a sloping wedge then didnt tape or screw it in place then moved the door around on it. 2. Decking screws for a door frame without a pilot hole? Madness.
Is it? The top hinge side looked proud, and thats likely why the door wants to swing open a bit. Could also be that the hinge put below the sill plate is bevelled so it is tilting the frame to the interior.
Also the door was special order to have it fiberglass and fire rated. Hope this video helps!
Fire doors in my state have a layer of concrete in the door slab and are heavy Ive done a few hundred doors nice job
Doors have always been one thing I loved doing in my remodeling days. One thing I always found was to reverse the shims so they are flat all the way behind the jamb and not wedged creating the jamb to twist a bit. This is especially helpful in old house remodeling. The hinge side is more sensitive to this because it can create the door to swing open on its own or shut instead of how your door looks when done. (If you open a door, it should stay in any position you leave it).
Some of our areas, spring loaded hinges are code for fire rated doors so they shut in case a fire and you don't shut it secure. I also only use fiberglass insulation over any spray foam ( my preference) on entry doors so they don't accidentally get expanded and cause the margin to change.
Thank you Josh for this wonderful door project.
Hey David! Yes overlapping the shims to make flat is a good idea. I do that a lot of times and sometimes I just forget to do that. I have noticed a lot of people have strong opinions against spray foam. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting. I helps the channel out a lot and I enjoy hearing from my subscribers!
i thought shims were a ramp? How could you possibly have them flat if they are, by nature, wedge shaped? (besides stacking 2 on top of each other to create a rectangle?)
@@tightirl if you reverse one with the thinnest part on the thickest of the other, they become flat if needed. To enlarge the thickness, you still push one in further than the other.
@@davidharrison3074 ah that makes sense. obvious now that you say it. thanks.
Hello Josh, When placing shims on a new door, it's necessary to install them (a pair) so that "the wafer thin sides of both shims" are pointing inwards toward the center of the door frame.
Man because of you I have decide to do a lot of the inside work of my shop myself. I need to redo the two outside doors since they did a crap job installing them.
That is so cool! Sometimes if you want the job done right you have to do it yourself. I have learned that throughout my years of construction. Good luck on your projects!
Every single door vid has been incredibly full of pointers and great explanations from you man! Hope your week is going to be awesome!
Hi you it’s me you!
I appreciate it. I just record exactly what I do each time I install the door. Of course there a nuances that are a little different each door. But they are all very similar. Thanks for watching!
I've installed door with the screw behind the weatherstripping too to hide it and had it work fine. Thermatru says not to do that because it the thinnest part of the jamb. The last one I installed (a door going into an attached garage) I screwed it through the thickest part of the jamb and just mudded the screws to hide them. Paint he jamb (the factory paint is crap anyhow) and you never see them. Good vid, thanks!
(For the DIYers.) Respectfully sharing if I may please. A door shouldn't be glued to the subfloor. If for whatever reason the frame needs to be replaced in the future, removal of the threshold is going to rip out subflooring right along with it. Furthermore, there's a high probability that finished flooring (Tile, hardwood.) is subject to collateral damage. Let me add, Liquid Nail is one of the most flammable building products used in construction. It ignites nearly as fast as gasoline. If adhering the threshold to the subfloor is a concern, use a fire rated sealant. There's a variety from 3M, Dap and Loctite.
😊Don't rely on your eagle eye 🦅. Once your door is preset and you're hands free, add the knob and latch hardware. Beyond reveals, MFGs can get their bores misaligned. No matter what the reveal is doing, the door must latch and lock. As far as setting the door on the latch side, use a "Trim Head Screw" behind the weatherstripping throughout. With a trim head screw it's so much easier getting your reveal correct. If you must use nails I have a couple of concerns. Go ahead and nail outside your weatherstripping (Jamb.). You don't want to pecker mark weatherstripping on a special ordered fire rated door. Also, don't fully sink a nail until you know your door is locking and shutting properly. You'll have a cussword moment if you have to dig or cut your nails out to readjust your frame. As he said, he got lucky with his first placement. But, once all is aligned and the door is locking and shutting, pilot hole and countersink for your larger screws. Don't overtighten so you don't throw your reveal and latches out of alignment...There's not much more to setting a prehung door. I'll add that on heavier slabs with glass, take to slab out of the frame to set the door. You'll thank yourself.
Don’t lend family tools… ever! 😂 thanks for all the concise door videos. Great timing for my build.
Congrats on a 100 000 Josh. You earned it love the channel!
Thanks a lot Amazing Framer! I’m still blown away I got 10,000 subs let alone 105,000! I appreciate your support along the way. You are one of the first viewers. Thank you for that!
Your really good at what you do I need more electrical videos you are very good at expkaiing how to do these
Enjoyed the video, will be doing most work on our new home.
Thanks Mike! It is very rewarding to build your own house. Let me know how it goes for you. Thanks for watching!
Great video Josh!
Hey Randy! Thank you so much!🔨
Josh, my friend ALL of your videos are very helpful!!🙂 although, somehow I think I've missed a couple gotta go back and catch up!!!😁👍👍
Hey Silver Grizzly! I’m so glad you are finding value my videos. Thanks a lot for stopping by!
Make sure ya mention to use the right spray foam. Have seen some of my friends “Start” projects before i get there to help and with doors and windows, they grab the mega expansion foam, creating bulges, it was a mess.
Like the idea of the deck screws. i never use the ones that come with the doors, and like to have 3-1/2” min in length
Q). No gap on threshold with the shim when you raised it, or did you do a “fill” of some type for the gap? Asking as last time i got a “big box” door, it was so cheaply made, and i had to level the bottom and had 3/8” gap. was creating a problem with flimsy material. (squeezed some mortar under it as it was bending. mortar worked good. just another headache. (that’s renovations for ya.
thanks for tip on deck screws. 👍👍
In Commiefornia they require one of the hinges on a door to the garage to be spring loaded so the garage door cannot be left standing open.
Hey Preston! Wow sounds like though code there is way different than the codes here when it comes to fire rated doors. That’s why I love UA-cam is because you learn from people all around the world. Thanks a lot for your input!
If you look, the top and bottom hinges have the auto close spring loaded hinges on this door. Most garages have them so the door will close automatically in case of a fire. If its fire rated but the door doesn't close it could allow the flames to go through the door opening.
Can you make a video on building stairs and stringers going from one level to another?
Hello Josh,
Thank you for your great training video. I need to use 20 minutes fire rated interior door between the basement and the main floor as per city requirement. Where to find and buy these types of door?
Good stuff
I appreciate that! 🔨
Thanks for the video 👍
Sure thing💪🏻
Nice video!🤩
“All I ask is you smash that like button for commenting and liking these awesome vids for free and keep doing you all day everyday!”
- me
Seriously great Josh!
Hey Thor! I will definitely hit that like button for you. Appreciate it man!
Seems to me that every time I have loaned out t my equipment or tool they come back either damaged, broken or otherwise in need of the trash can! 😵💫
I use a 5-way blade or a 3" putty knife to pull back the seal on the door to drive a screw,. While holding the seal back with the putty knife I can protect the seal while driving the screw past it without damaging the seal.
Typically I don't pre-drill for the screws behind the seal as the door frame lumber is usually pretty fresh. more so now than ever as manufacturers are using composite for the door frames where pre-drilling is pretty much moot point anyway.
Also an upgrade to the putty knife, I use is to use a long sleeved bit driver holder to slide over the screw so the screw threads do not tear up the seal when driving it in.. I just pull back the sleeve far enough to see where the screw is at in the driving process..
When shimming the latch lock side I also use a wider cedar shim so when I install spray foam insulation, I do not have to wait for the foam to cure and then clean out the mortise receiver hole... I also use a water spritzer to accelerate the spray foam insulation cure time (be sure to check the manufacturer recommendations on your product packaging) - as the side note: some brands of foam insulation will cure mostly outside with this technique while the interior curing is much slower - be mindful and pay attention - always install gloves - and - have acetone and a clean up rag handy before starting any spray foam insulating.
Perhaps I am overkill, but I do use the fire rated spray foam insulation in fire doors.. I don't like to have any questions when I am done with this kind of install.
In my jurisdiction, the hinges need to be self-closing and a magnetic seal is also required here.
Kudos for the once and done install - it's a rarity in the real world as "sometimes door slabs are warped? - you mean 99.9% of the time! - and or the frame is a hot mess with replacements!
👍👍
That’s a good idea to use the putty knife to pull back the weatherstripping. Thanks for that! Yes using fire rated spray firm is probably the best option but I’ve never had an inspector check for that because clearly it’s behind the trim. Definitely not a bad idea. Yes always check manufacturer recommendations when doing anything. Sometimes it doesn’t seem necessary but often times it’s for a good cause. How do you get a little creative from time to time and do things a little different but that’s my style lol. I appreciate your awesome response. Thanks a lot for watching!
Better get that nailer back!
I just sent him this video. I’m sure he will get a kick from that scene 😅
1. You used a sloping wedge then didnt tape or screw it in place then moved the door around on it.
2. Decking screws for a door frame without a pilot hole? Madness.
Plum ✅
That’s right 💪🏻
Is it? The top hinge side looked proud, and thats likely why the door wants to swing open a bit. Could also be that the hinge put below the sill plate is bevelled so it is tilting the frame to the interior.