As I’m sure others have commented on ….the prime reason for the oil pumps breaking is when services are carried out with more than 10 mins between dropping oil and refill and start .. good video 👍 ( 10 mins max oil change )
@@kennedysgarage3281 I am doing a 2nd engine rebuild within 500km after the 1st one, on our 2012 Ranger 2.2. 🤕 Local mechanics seem to lack proper up to date knowledge of common rail diesel engines. Closest official Ford dealer is about 450 nautical miles north-east from Ambon. 😐 So will have to re-rebuild by myself this time step by step. Having no significant technical experience for an engine rebuild or failure analysis, your video's are most welcome!!! Thanks for being so transparent! It helps me out in many ways. The oil pump is still ok but will replace vane oil pump with gear oil pump for just in case. In my search for information I found this on FB as a possible viable answer to your question. Can't link the post to UA-cam so here's a copy/paste: added 6 new photos - in Dalby, QLD, Australia. August 16, 2018 Ford Ranger & Mazda BT-50 Duratorq TDCi Puma 2.2lt GBVA P4AT and 3.2lt SAFA P5AT Oil Pump Tests and Upgrade Option (Research and testing by Brett Harth & Philip Sturgess, Engine Australia) The Duratorq TDCi 4 cylinder 2.2lt and 5 cylinder 3.2lt engines are from the Ford Puma ZSD family of engines first introduced in Australia in the Ranger/BT-50 in 2011. Many variations had been available since 2000 in Ford Mondeo and Transits, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volvo and Mazda. The 2.2lt was rated at 110 kW and the 3.2lt at 147 kW. These engines are both fitted with the same variable displacement vane oil pumps - O.E. reference BK2Q6600AC/BA/BB/CA, U20114100 & U20314100. Ford explains ‘A conventional (gear) oil pump has a linear output of pressure based on engine RPM. The oil pump in these engines have a feedback line that takes oil pressure from the ladder-frame and feeds it back to the variable displacement portion of the pump. At idle the oil pressure is about 105 kPa, as the RPM increases to 2000 the oil pressure will also linearly increase to 300 kPa. The oil pressure stays at 300 kPa for any additional RPM increase above 2000 RPM.’ The Theory The variable displacement oil pump has been added to these engines to help improve engine efficiency by cutting down on engine parasitic loads. The oil pump’s function is to provide lubrication and cooling to the engine by delivering adequate oil flow based on engine demand. Standard gear and vane pumps are positive displacement pumps that have an output characteristic approximately linear with speed. This results in oil flow rates at higher RPM in excess of the engine requirements. The ‘excess’ oil is conventionally discharged through a regulating valve (pressure relief valve) at high pressure, meaning a loss of energy and unnecessary heating of the oil. The variable displacement oil pump has been designed with the intention of significantly reducing these losses by limiting the oil displacement to a pre-determined volume and pressure above a set engine RPM. As with standard gear and vane pumps, the gears/vanes create a vacuum in one side of the pump housing, drawing oil up the pick-up pipe from the oil pan. The gears/vanes then displace the oil into the engine oil gallery. The higher the engine RPM, the higher the displaced oil volume and pressure. Vane pumps usually have slipper springs behind each of the vanes to ensure they seal on the walls of the stator. The variable displacement vane pump does not have these springs due to the unusually high amount of travel of the vanes in the rotor because of the eccentricity between stator and rotor. The pump relies on centrifugal force to push the vanes out to the stator. There is also an oil feed from the oil gallery in the ladder-frame back to the pump to help stabilise the pressure and force the vanes out. The Problems Vane oil pumps are not traditionally used in engine applications. They have a long history in hydraulic applications where they are typically fitted with an oil filter on the intake side. There is no intake oil filter in this application. This leads to accelerated wear on the vanes where they are loaded against the outside circumference of the rotor. This is accelerated by the high amount of travel of the vanes. This wear allows the vanes to stick or catch and the pumps to lose oil pressure resulting in crankshaft bearing and/or piston scuffing or seizure. In severe but all-to-common cases, the hardened and very brittle vanes fracture when they catch and then are driven against the stator due to the eccentricity. One of the symptoms of these conditions is the well-known ‘ten minutes to replace the oil filter when doing an oil change’ condition that is stipulated by Ford. Failure to accomplish this task in the allotted time may result in the inability to prime the oil pump when restarting the engine. Vane fracture results in a parked vehicle and probably the need for an engine rebuild. The Testing Engine Australia decided to find a solution to this oil pump problem in an otherwise excellent engine. We built an electric motor driven oil pump testing rig (See Pic) . It is driven by a 5.5 kW high speed balanced electric motor, capable of 6000 RPM. We have fitted high accuracy Stauss pressure and Macnaught flow gauges, and a Techtop AC variable speed drive and controller. We tested the O.E. variable displacement pump at 800, 1000 up to 5000 RPM (in 250 RPM increments), recording oil pressure, flow rate and engine power at each marker. We then tested a suitable replacement gear pump at the same settings and recorded the same data. We then ran the motor without the oil pump connected and recorded the power requirements of the electric motor at each marker. These values were subtracted from the previously recorded values at the equivalent markers to determine the drive power of only the oil pumps. The data from both pumps has been tabulated and graphed and is shown in the pictures attached to this post. The Results The test results verify that the variable displacement vane pump consumes less power than its gear type equivalent. In normal driving conditions the engine would rarely see more than 2500 RPM - maybe the occasional 3000 RPM. Highway cruising and typical driving will usually be less than 2000 RPM. At 2000 RPM the extra power draw for the gear pump is 0.47 kW, at 2500 RPM 0.71 kW and at 3000 RPM 0.95 kW. The small loss in engine power is far outweighed by the benefits to the engine from increased oil flow and oil pressure. By replacing the O.E. vane pump with a gear type pump, you increase the reliability of your engine and do not have to be concerned about the ’10 minute oil change’ rule or engine failure due to oil pump failure. Diesel Performance Parts offers a direct replacement gear type oil pump to replace the O.E. variable displacement vane oil pump. It has all the benefits of increased oil flow and pressure across the full RPM range, with a very small power penalty in the normal operating range. The gear pump is a must for performance applications due to its increased oil flow and pressure. The graphed values shown in this post are from testing real oil pumps, chain driven through the standard sprockets by an electric motor. Note: The RPM values above are for the electric motor - equivalent to the engine speed. The oil pumps rotate 1.25 times faster than the motors.
@@marcovandervorst2465 that is excellent information for everyone to have. Very interesting 🧐 The very best of luck on the rebuild, take your time as these engines can be tricky. Egr coolers fail a lot and cause cylinder and piston damage too 🤞🤞🤞
Sure that’s a great job at reasonable price, but you definitely earned your money on this one. Love you stuff it’s like being back in the garage serving my time again.
excellent video peter i could not wait for part Two.It live up to all the expectations it was a very big job hope you can take a day or two of after that one. good luck. i have to say excellent video
It’s sometimes nice to see a job that you have to do ahead of time just to get an idea of what your up against. Hopefully it will help someone out. Thanks dude 🙏🙏
Brave man Peter well done not an easy job. Didn't realise the engine in these was a citroen. If the oil pump goes dry how do you re prime them? Just stop them from starting and keep cracking??
That is the only way that I know anyway, less pressure on everything when just cranking ( except the starter 😬 ) I don’t believe it is a Citroen engine but they possibly use the same crank & a few other bits. You wouldn’t know what you have the way they do be sharing bits . Mercedes with Renault engines 🤦♂️
Hi Christy, I suppose I could or possibly should have gotten the engine completely rebuilt but I know the owner so was trying to keep the cost & timeframe small. So ordered only what I felt would be worn or fail in the near future. And the guide’s or tensioner hadn’t any previous issues, but the chains do fail. I didn’t give it a second thought. Let me know what you think 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for the reply! I brought a set today and have begun inspecting my rod bearings. My oil pump failed and as a result I have a knock in my engine 😭
@kennedysgarage3281 ya, that's what i thought with the ecu. It's probably not worth the headache. I saw a 2017 2.2 sell last week for 4500,( needing an engine) it would have made a cheap jeep. I watched the guys on salvage rebuilds uk do an engine swap too. They brought their old engine to a place and exchanged it for a reconditioned one.
I didn’t believe it would have tried to fire up quite as fast 🫤, I expected it to crank for a few minutes before trying to run but disabled injectors thereafter. After part 1 everyone tells me the oil pumps fail like crazy if the go dry, crazy set up 🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 We have all heard horror stories of these engines not getting oil pressure if you let the oil drain from the sump for more than 10 minuets. Love the content, look forward to the next. Cheers from Oz.
Morning Peter. Great video as always and I've had my school day out of it thank-you. I need to contact you privately regarding something that I seen (mili second of maybe accidental copyright) on this that could bite back at you later date so i need to type you a story. Are you on any other social media I can search for you on? Regards Chris
Half assed job. You haven't used any instruments to check clearances and wear ie plastic Guage and micrometer. You simply relied on human judgement which is a joke. Human eyes are extremely imprecise. You also haven't assure cleaned oil gallies in crank and block. Trapped crap in there from spun bearing will cause low oil pressure. The journal has to polished to mirror finish or oul wont flow properly due to uneven surface on journal., it matters when you dealing with micromillimeter between bearing and journal. The engine sounds flat. Can't see this motor doing another 50k. Gonna have oil consumption issues and bearing failure again.
As I’m sure others have commented on ….the prime reason for the oil pumps breaking is when services are carried out with more than 10 mins between dropping oil and refill and start .. good video 👍 ( 10 mins max oil change )
I have heard of this issue, any pointers on how to overcome this problem??
@@kennedysgarage3281 I am doing a 2nd engine rebuild within 500km after the 1st one, on our 2012 Ranger 2.2. 🤕 Local mechanics seem to lack proper up to date knowledge of common rail diesel engines. Closest official Ford dealer is about 450 nautical miles north-east from Ambon. 😐 So will have to re-rebuild by myself this time step by step. Having no significant technical experience for an engine rebuild or failure analysis, your video's are most welcome!!! Thanks for being so transparent! It helps me out in many ways.
The oil pump is still ok but will replace vane oil pump with gear oil pump for just in case. In my search for information I found this on FB as a possible viable answer to your question. Can't link the post to UA-cam so here's a copy/paste:
added 6 new photos - in Dalby, QLD, Australia.
August 16, 2018
Ford Ranger & Mazda BT-50 Duratorq TDCi Puma
2.2lt GBVA P4AT and 3.2lt SAFA P5AT
Oil Pump Tests and Upgrade Option
(Research and testing by Brett Harth & Philip Sturgess, Engine Australia)
The Duratorq TDCi 4 cylinder 2.2lt and 5 cylinder 3.2lt engines are from the Ford Puma ZSD family of engines first introduced in Australia in the Ranger/BT-50 in 2011. Many variations had been available since 2000 in Ford Mondeo and Transits, Jaguar, Land Rover, Volvo and Mazda. The 2.2lt was rated at 110 kW and the 3.2lt at 147 kW. These engines are both fitted with the same variable displacement vane oil pumps - O.E. reference BK2Q6600AC/BA/BB/CA, U20114100 & U20314100. Ford explains ‘A conventional (gear) oil pump has a linear output of pressure based on engine RPM. The oil pump in these engines have a feedback line that takes oil pressure from the ladder-frame and feeds it back to the variable displacement portion of the pump. At idle the oil pressure is about 105 kPa, as the RPM increases to 2000 the oil pressure will also linearly increase to 300 kPa. The oil pressure stays at 300 kPa for any additional RPM increase above 2000 RPM.’
The Theory
The variable displacement oil pump has been added to these engines to help improve engine efficiency by cutting down on engine parasitic loads. The oil pump’s function is to provide lubrication and cooling to the engine by delivering adequate oil flow based on engine demand. Standard gear and vane pumps are positive displacement pumps that have an output characteristic approximately linear with speed. This results in oil flow rates at higher RPM in excess of the engine requirements. The ‘excess’ oil is conventionally discharged through a regulating valve (pressure relief valve) at high pressure, meaning a loss of energy and unnecessary heating of the oil. The variable displacement oil pump has been designed with the intention of significantly reducing these losses by limiting the oil displacement to a pre-determined volume and pressure above a set engine RPM.
As with standard gear and vane pumps, the gears/vanes create a vacuum in one side of the pump housing, drawing oil up the pick-up pipe from the oil pan. The gears/vanes then displace the oil into the engine oil gallery. The higher the engine RPM, the higher the displaced oil volume and pressure. Vane pumps usually have slipper springs behind each of the vanes to ensure they seal on the walls of the stator. The variable displacement vane pump does not have these springs due to the unusually high amount of travel of the vanes in the rotor because of the eccentricity between stator and rotor. The pump relies on centrifugal force to push the vanes out to the stator. There is also an oil feed from the oil gallery in the ladder-frame back to the pump to help stabilise the pressure and force the vanes out.
The Problems
Vane oil pumps are not traditionally used in engine applications. They have a long history in hydraulic applications where they are typically fitted with an oil filter on the intake side. There is no intake oil filter in this application. This leads to accelerated wear on the vanes where they are loaded against the outside circumference of the rotor. This is accelerated by the high amount of travel of the vanes. This wear allows the vanes to stick or catch and the pumps to lose oil pressure resulting in crankshaft bearing and/or piston scuffing or seizure. In severe but all-to-common cases, the hardened and very brittle vanes fracture when they catch and then are driven against the stator due to the eccentricity. One of the symptoms of these conditions is the well-known ‘ten minutes to replace the oil filter when doing an oil change’ condition that is stipulated by Ford. Failure to accomplish this task in the allotted time may result in the inability to prime the oil pump when restarting the engine. Vane fracture results in a parked vehicle and probably the need for an engine rebuild.
The Testing
Engine Australia decided to find a solution to this oil pump problem in an otherwise excellent engine. We built an electric motor driven oil pump testing rig (See Pic) . It is driven by a 5.5 kW high speed balanced electric motor, capable of 6000 RPM. We have fitted high accuracy Stauss pressure and Macnaught flow gauges, and a Techtop AC variable speed drive and controller. We tested the O.E. variable displacement pump at 800, 1000 up to 5000 RPM (in 250 RPM increments), recording oil pressure, flow rate and engine power at each marker. We then tested a suitable replacement gear pump at the same settings and recorded the same data. We then ran the motor without the oil pump connected and recorded the power requirements of the electric motor at each marker. These values were subtracted from the previously recorded values at the equivalent markers to determine the drive power of only the oil pumps. The data from both pumps has been tabulated and graphed and is shown in the pictures attached to this post.
The Results
The test results verify that the variable displacement vane pump consumes less power than its gear type equivalent. In normal driving conditions the engine would rarely see more than 2500 RPM - maybe the occasional 3000 RPM. Highway cruising and typical driving will usually be less than 2000 RPM. At 2000 RPM the extra power draw for the gear pump is 0.47 kW, at 2500 RPM 0.71 kW and at 3000 RPM 0.95 kW. The small loss in engine power is far outweighed by the benefits to the engine from increased oil flow and oil pressure. By replacing the O.E. vane pump with a gear type pump, you increase the reliability of your engine and do not have to be concerned about the ’10 minute oil change’ rule or engine failure due to oil pump failure.
Diesel Performance Parts offers a direct replacement gear type oil pump to replace the O.E. variable displacement vane oil pump. It has all the benefits of increased oil flow and pressure across the full RPM range, with a very small power penalty in the normal operating range. The gear pump is a must for performance applications due to its increased oil flow and pressure. The graphed values shown in this post are from testing real oil pumps, chain driven through the standard sprockets by an electric motor.
Note: The RPM values above are for the electric motor - equivalent to the engine speed. The oil pumps rotate 1.25 times faster than the motors.
@@marcovandervorst2465 that is excellent information for everyone to have. Very interesting 🧐
The very best of luck on the rebuild, take your time as these engines can be tricky. Egr coolers fail a lot and cause cylinder and piston damage too 🤞🤞🤞
Sure that’s a great job at reasonable price, but you definitely earned your money on this one. Love you stuff it’s like being back in the garage serving my time again.
Is that because you wouldn’t know what I’d be up to 🤪🤪
If I didn’t laugh, I’d cry 😢 😂😂😂
Only joking I’m glad you enjoy my content . Thanks John 🙏🙏👍
Been waiting for part two - you can congratulate yourself on a good job done there Peter that engine sounds real sweet👍
It on the road a few weeks now Kevin, with no come backs so that is a positive. But yes it does sound good & drives the finest. Thank you 🙏 👍
excellent video peter i could not wait for part Two.It live up to all the expectations it was a very big job hope you can take a day or two of after that one. good luck. i have to say excellent video
Thank you so much Wackey, I really do appreciate you say that 🙏🙏🙏👍
And by the way no days off ☹️☹️
Great video and great job. Very interesting watch. Thanks.
Thank you very much Daniel. I’m glad you enjoyed it 🙏🙏👍
Great stuff i love the engine rebuild vids👍👍👨🔧👨🔧be great to see more of this kinda stuff seems popular
It does seem popular, I’ll have to do a few more 🤔🤔👍
Nice one great job 👏👌
Thanks for your help on it Alan & being so precious as to mark the bolt/ hole on the mounting 😉👍
Great video, Peter.
It’s sometimes nice to see a job that you have to do ahead of time just to get an idea of what your up against. Hopefully it will help someone out. Thanks dude 🙏🙏
Nice one Peter 👍🏻 👌
Thank you from Peter to Peter 🙂👍
Good job sir 👍❤
Thank you kind sir 🙏🙏
I’d like to find out, would it work to fit oversized pistons on these motors, either forged or performance pistons?
I don’t actually know the answer to that question, but I would assume it could be done by the right machine shop 🤔🤔🤔
Brave man Peter well done not an easy job. Didn't realise the engine in these was a citroen. If the oil pump goes dry how do you re prime them? Just stop them from starting and keep cracking??
That is the only way that I know anyway, less pressure on everything when just cranking ( except the starter 😬 )
I don’t believe it is a Citroen engine but they possibly use the same crank & a few other bits. You wouldn’t know what you have the way they do be sharing bits . Mercedes with Renault engines 🤦♂️
Hi Peter great video.How come you didn't replace the tensioner and guides on it.
Hi Christy, I suppose I could or possibly should have gotten the engine completely rebuilt but I know the owner so was trying to keep the cost & timeframe small. So ordered only what I felt would be worn or fail in the near future. And the guide’s or tensioner hadn’t any previous issues, but the chains do fail. I didn’t give it a second thought. Let me know what you think 🤔
Great video and thank you for making it! 👍🏻
What tool do I need to remove the connecting rod bearing cap bolts?
They are called ‘TORX’ sockets & it is size E12 or E14. But these are very readily available & mostly come in sets
www.ebay.ie/itm/161009670722?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=5282-175127-2357-0&ssspo=yvwl7HUSReq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bjxxf8trsrm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you for the reply!
I brought a set today and have begun inspecting my rod bearings.
My oil pump failed and as a result I have a knock in my engine 😭
@@gagacrazy10 the very best of luck with it mate 🤞🤞🤞
Good job 👍 I spotted peugeot and Citroen on the crank, is this the same 2.2 engine that’s fitted in the peugeot and Citroen vans?
Yes, John they are basically the same engines with a few slight variations. Very well spotted though, it is quite small on the crank web 👏👏
Could you put a 3.2 engine instead of the 2.2
Anything can be done once a chap does mine more work & expense. The ECU & loom would need changing
Let me know if you try it John 😉🙏🙏🙏
@kennedysgarage3281 ya, that's what i thought with the ecu. It's probably not worth the headache. I saw a 2017 2.2 sell last week for 4500,( needing an engine) it would have made a cheap jeep. I watched the guys on salvage rebuilds uk do an engine swap too. They brought their old engine to a place and exchanged it for a reconditioned one.
Is this the same truck? part one was automatic part two manual transmission or am I missing something.
I have 2 ranger engine rebuild videos. 1st is 2.2, 4 cylinder & manual
The 2nd is 3.2, 5 cylinder & automatic
Ford Ranger Part 2,knocking noise fix / piston replacement
ua-cam.com/video/3ws1zdYSIAM/v-deo.html
Did you prime the oil pump?
I didn’t believe it would have tried to fire up quite as fast 🫤, I expected it to crank for a few minutes before trying to run but disabled injectors thereafter. After part 1 everyone tells me the oil pumps fail like crazy if the go dry, crazy set up 🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 We have all heard horror stories of these engines not getting oil pressure if you let the oil drain from the sump for more than 10 minuets.
Love the content, look forward to the next.
Cheers from Oz.
@@glenohara6563 delighted to have you watching Glen 🙏🙏😉
MILEAGE?
Around 120,000 miles
Morning Peter. Great video as always and I've had my school day out of it thank-you. I need to contact you privately regarding something that I seen (mili second of maybe accidental copyright) on this that could bite back at you later date so i need to type you a story. Are you on any other social media I can search for you on? Regards Chris
Instagram & Facebook 🤔
Half assed job. You haven't used any instruments to check clearances and wear ie plastic Guage and micrometer. You simply relied on human judgement which is a joke. Human eyes are extremely imprecise. You also haven't assure cleaned oil gallies in crank and block. Trapped crap in there from spun bearing will cause low oil pressure. The journal has to polished to mirror finish or oul wont flow properly due to uneven surface on journal., it matters when you dealing with micromillimeter between bearing and journal. The engine sounds flat. Can't see this motor doing another 50k. Gonna have oil consumption issues and bearing failure again.
@@wenzenuf221 you are absolutely correct on everything you say. But my imprecise eyes worked in this cause. Thank god 🙂🙂