I've done the SN95 5.0 in to a 67 Mustang myself and had to use a similar front sump pan from Moroso. You can relocate the dipstick directly in to the pan and then theres a simple process of putting the correct "Min/Max" marks on the dipstick while the pans on the bench. I also retained the 1995 H.O SN95's Power steering pump and serpentine system so didn't have to use an earlier front timing cover and V belts. I had to use the tube from a Canton dipstick kit but still used the original SN95 dipstick. I had to diegrind out a channel through the back of the (shortened .. No smog) SN95 alternator bracket and with a few minimal bends the dipstick exits just behind the alternator and to the side of the valve cover by No.1 cylinder. I used the little bracket off of the block mounted SN95 dipstick tube and tacked it to the Canton tube after mocking it all up. With the help of a bolt slid through the cylinder block locating tab to keep the canton tube held securely in place. So when you hear people tell you that you have to use an early timing cover for a 5 liter block so you can locate the dipstick in it they're not correct. If you're using an SN95 motor in a classic Mustang you're going to have to change to a front sump oil pan so why not buy one with a dipstick facility and also use all the SN95s superior serpentine system?
Awesome! This project is turning out to be an all out build! Congrats on all the partners you've got now. Question: some people safety wire the oil pump as well. Is that to much "safety"? Why didn't you do it as well? The bolts on the brake were already drilled to pass the wire or did you do it? Keep the updates coming!! Best regards.
Audoedit thank you so much for making the videos you sir need a show on power block or velocity! Bit of feedback though you could use a tad more lighting. I subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos!!!!!!! Thumbs way up!
Hope your changing the rear main seal before it goes in :D its probably a one piece? havnt a clue I work with allot older engines with two piece and rope seal.
ShnitzlHaus No rope seals on this thing...LOL I remember dealing with those, always leaking a little. Your channel name is hilarious...two words "Ninja Squirrel"
went to adjust my distributor lost my oil pump driveshaft into the pan.. on the dreaded pan pull. this is on my 82 gt. they didnt make it easy with these double sump/ k frames
Why wasn't the new Oil Pump not disassembled to clean out the common issue of machined metal filings still in the new pump, or at least placed in a parts washer or bucket with clean solvent and hand opperated to flush out any filings still in it from being new?
Did you think about a cam swap? Or at least looking at the cam to see if it had been swapped already? You were pretty far into that motor. It would have been really easy to swap the cam and maximize the breathing for that supercharger.
Keep blowing oil pumps guess I need to go high out put I have 347 stroked kit &sn2000 super charger &100 HP shot n20 what's a good HP oil PUMP for a 92 mustang gt....
I bought a program called Sonic Fire Pro and a bunch of cds called an action pack or something from the Smart Sound music store. It's the same that stuff they use for many of the videos on the motor trend channel.
At 3:11 we see your using a two-bolt main, probably cast crank & those small 5/16th rod bolts......and your super-charging this? Rookie mistake, don't expect your engine to last very long. Ford makes a crate motor with the four-bolt main, 3/8ths inch rod bolts with the forged crank.....in an 8.5 to one compression just specificallly for boosted operation. Your configuration will be having you shoveling up the guts of your engine in due time.
Astute observation. Yes, this engine is not good for more than 500 horsepower but this will be a low boost application and should be fine until the finances allow for a more stout build. Besides, I got this thing for very cheap.
autoedit Yeah, I would go with about 6 lbs of boost myself. If you will note the indentations, a narrowing of the body of that main-cap...Ford realized this so-called problem on those caps & built the 289 HP design, circa 1966?, whereby the caps were solid, with no narrowing, a sort of solid bar swinging around the top from one bolt to the next. I saw just one image of this decades ago. The failure was designated as "main walking"...I have yet to find a definition of this....but I haven't searched for this?? Just a bit of history & trivia I thought you might like to know....good luck with your build...
The block will split in half before those rods/bolts go. I have put superchargers on many 5 liter engines with zero piston/rod/crank failures (with the TRW pistons).. many of which make 450+ to the tire. The weakest point.. the block's casting.
Nick Grucza I'll call you out on this one, split in half? Pray tell what is moving within an engine?.....the rotating assembly.....how is this force translated into the force upon the block? Whose shop have you assembled these five supercharged engines?....and the split block, when, where did you see it, did you disassemble the destroyed engine? In my twenty plus years working in two dealerships, & a handful of independents, I have happened upon ONE catastrophic failure....a 3 liter Toyota V6 with 300K plus, whereby a piston pin let go & the rod swung around attempting to cut the block at the front 1/3.....From what I've acquired, these weaknesses occur at prolonged high engine speeds AKA, track racing....and not the drags or street blasts...
Yes. Split into two pieces. Right down the center of the lifter valley. Google it and see for yourself. Google it.. "5.0 split block".. it's quite a sight to see in person. And I've worked in a couple independent performance shops. Don't worry, I have plenty of knowledge...
I was so happy to see another Autoedit this morning!!! good work man I love seeing this thing come together.
Robert Ritchey Me too!!! Thanks for hanging in there...still good stuff to come.
hn. F. U gg dc in njg jj fg v vhb
I really love your videos every time I see a new one in my sub feed I drop what ever I'm doing to watch.
Thanks for this video. It is exactly what I needed to know for an engine swap in my 65 Mustang Fastback. Great job!
Glad it helped! So cool to hear and good luck on your 65!
I've done the SN95 5.0 in to a 67 Mustang myself and had to use a similar front sump pan from Moroso.
You can relocate the dipstick directly in to the pan and then theres a simple process of putting the correct "Min/Max" marks on the dipstick while the pans on the bench.
I also retained the 1995 H.O SN95's Power steering pump and serpentine system so didn't have to use an earlier front timing cover and V belts.
I had to use the tube from a Canton dipstick kit but still used the original SN95 dipstick.
I had to diegrind out a channel through the back of the (shortened .. No smog) SN95 alternator bracket and with a few minimal bends the dipstick exits just behind the alternator and to the side of the valve cover by No.1 cylinder.
I used the little bracket off of the block mounted SN95 dipstick tube and tacked it to the Canton tube after mocking it all up. With the help of a bolt slid through the cylinder block locating tab to keep the canton tube held securely in place.
So when you hear people tell you that you have to use an early timing cover for a 5 liter block so you can locate the dipstick in it they're not correct. If you're using an SN95 motor in a classic Mustang you're going to have to change to a front sump oil pan so why not buy one with a dipstick facility and also use all the SN95s superior serpentine system?
Nice update, project is coming along.
All your videos always seem to be oerfect for what I want to learn thanks a lot thumbs up
Thanks a bunch for taking a minute and watching!
Locktite is a must on the pick up and pump. Vibrations vibrations......
Whaaaat? Another Autoedit video so soon? I'm so PUMPED! lol. Sorry Jason, couldn't resist. ttyl -Drew
Supradrew I know right!!! I'm trying to stay motivated and just get things done as I can. Thanks for the support Drew! I appreciate it.
autoedit Well, when I find a channel I like I support it and try to promote it as much as I can. Thx for subbing my channel Jason. ttyl -Drew
Nice work! Keep up the great videos
Would have definitely used a felpro pro blue one piece gasket....
Awesome! This project is turning out to be an all out build! Congrats on all the partners you've got now.
Question: some people safety wire the oil pump as well. Is that to much "safety"? Why didn't you do it as well?
The bolts on the brake were already drilled to pass the wire or did you do it?
Keep the updates coming!! Best regards.
Audoedit thank you so much for making the videos you sir need a show on power block or velocity! Bit of feedback though you could use a tad more lighting. I subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos!!!!!!! Thumbs way up!
Don't you recommend putting loctite on the oil pump bolts?
Thanks. Really helpful. Jerry
Great video. What torque do you use for the pump bolts and pickup bolts?
+jerry edmans 35 lbs.ft. with a little locktite
Hope your changing the rear main seal before it goes in :D its probably a one piece? havnt a clue I work with allot older engines with two piece and rope seal.
ShnitzlHaus No rope seals on this thing...LOL I remember dealing with those, always leaking a little.
Your channel name is hilarious...two words "Ninja Squirrel"
Can you make a video on your dip stick. I'm doing the same thing to a 66 and km having an issue with it.
Good request... I'll check it out next week.
Awesome! Thanks alot.
Do you always have to remove the engine out to installed oil pump ? I have a bronco 2 that need new oil pump
went to adjust my distributor lost my oil pump driveshaft into the pan.. on the dreaded pan pull. this is on my 82 gt. they didnt make it easy with these double sump/ k frames
Yikes!
Why wasn't the new Oil Pump not disassembled to clean out the common issue of machined metal filings still in the new pump, or at least placed in a parts washer or bucket with clean solvent and hand opperated to flush out any filings still in it from being new?
I didn't know to do that, but now I do.
did you keep the same dip stick? Was it located read, driver's side?
I was wondering if you could help me out with the exact Canton front sump pan and pump you used. Thanks.
I didn't see you use a gasket on the pump and the pickup are they necessary?
great work
how come you didn't get a one piece rubber gasket? just curious.
looks like a Canton oil pan?
That would be correct!
Did you think about a cam swap? Or at least looking at the cam to see if it had been swapped already? You were pretty far into that motor. It would have been really easy to swap the cam and maximize the breathing for that supercharger.
Keep blowing oil pumps guess I need to go high out put I have 347 stroked kit &sn2000 super charger &100 HP shot n20 what's a good HP oil PUMP for a 92 mustang gt....
Is that the canton 15644??
Where did you get this music? This is from the show RoadKill. And Ive been Looking for all the music they play from their show.
I bought a program called Sonic Fire Pro and a bunch of cds called an action pack or something from the Smart Sound music store. It's the same that stuff they use for many of the videos on the motor trend channel.
Cool I found it. Thanks.
Didnt measure the pickup clearance with a ruler?
Pan depth - pickup deprh.
Used my eye-crometer
looks like the oil pump pickup is hitting the crank??
Rick Casto After watching the video I saw that...it was just the angle of the camera. All is good.
Why not pull a main bearing to check for wear ?
Didn't think of it... everything looked pretty good.
Is it just me or does the oil pickup look like its going to hit the crank shaft?
Tim Mcguire I thought so too from watching the video but it was just the camera angle!
Hey thanks for responding, love all your vids and recommend them to everyone cant wait for the next but I have to say I miss the viper mav project lol
Tim Mcguire ME TOO. A bunch...rough time for me.
Braver than me, not a fan of sealing the pan that way multiple sources, sealant cork and rubber, 1 will fail soon
how do you know the exact amount of torque on the bolts ???
alsogooraa with a torque wrench.
Whats the name of the song that starts playing at 5:22?
am I the only one to notice where the screen bolts to the pump..... either I'm trippin or the flange is actually touching the crank????
At 3:11 we see your using a two-bolt main, probably cast crank & those small 5/16th rod bolts......and your super-charging this? Rookie mistake, don't expect your engine to last very long. Ford makes a crate motor with the four-bolt main, 3/8ths inch rod bolts with the forged crank.....in an 8.5 to one compression just specificallly for boosted operation. Your configuration will be having you shoveling up the guts of your engine in due time.
Astute observation. Yes, this engine is not good for more than 500 horsepower but this will be a low boost application and should be fine until the finances allow for a more stout build. Besides, I got this thing for very cheap.
autoedit
Yeah, I would go with about 6 lbs of boost myself. If you will note the indentations, a narrowing of the body of that main-cap...Ford realized this so-called problem on those caps & built the 289 HP design, circa 1966?, whereby the caps were solid, with no narrowing, a sort of solid bar swinging around the top from one bolt to the next. I saw just one image of this decades ago. The failure was designated as "main walking"...I have yet to find a definition of this....but I haven't searched for this??
Just a bit of history & trivia I thought you might like to know....good luck with your build...
The block will split in half before those rods/bolts go. I have put superchargers on many 5 liter engines with zero piston/rod/crank failures (with the TRW pistons).. many of which make 450+ to the tire. The weakest point.. the block's casting.
Nick Grucza I'll call you out on this one, split in half? Pray tell what is moving within an engine?.....the rotating assembly.....how is this force translated into the force upon the block? Whose shop have you assembled these five supercharged engines?....and the split block, when, where did you see it, did you disassemble the destroyed engine? In my twenty plus years working in two dealerships, & a handful of independents, I have happened upon ONE catastrophic failure....a 3 liter Toyota V6 with 300K plus, whereby a piston pin let go & the rod swung around attempting to cut the block at the front 1/3.....From what I've acquired, these weaknesses occur at prolonged high engine speeds AKA, track racing....and not the drags or street blasts...
Yes. Split into two pieces. Right down the center of the lifter valley. Google it and see for yourself. Google it.. "5.0 split block".. it's quite a sight to see in person. And I've worked in a couple independent performance shops. Don't worry, I have plenty of knowledge...
Why in the world would you use those shitty gaskets? One piece felpro only way to go especially on a sbf