Many thanks. I lost some of the video files showing how to install the gearbox so unfortunately there is one or two sequences missing. The clock was also against me as the car needed to be back in use.
Superb video, thanks much for the work and the detail on fitment and process. Shame about the gearbox re-fitting footage; had to do this myself. Absolute PIG of a job. I recommend first draining the coolant and removing the bottom hose that feeds the heater; it's VERY tricky to work the box around it. Might also be worth adjusting the angle of the tabs on the hose clip that fixes that hose to the thermostat housing as one of the little tabs on it was fouling by gearbox re-entry. On that same "collection of miserable sh*t" that Peugeot decided to stick in your way some of the loom clipped in place was freed up and cable tied out of the way. You yourself may be able to align the box without dropping the engine but I couldn't, and had to remove the rear mount (yes really) and drop it down at an angle gearbox-side to just barely fit it all together so the box cleared all the angles on the subframe. To aid alignment, cut down two part-threaded M10 bolts by taking the heads off (about 80mm should be long enough) and then cutting a little slit in the very end to fit a screwdriver; these can then be screwed into the two top gearbox bolt holes as sort of "sliders" and these will hang and align the box a little, taking the weight of it while you jostle the remaining supports around. Further to this, the clutch was INSANELY fussy on the alignment angle. It took EIGHT attempts to get it lined up (I very nearly just forced it on. This was an ENTIRE DAY of dropping the box, checking, aligning, tweaking, rotating the crank a bit, fitting it up, it not working, dropping the box again etc etc.) And yes I used BOTH alignment tools I had, and in the end did it successfully by eye. Grisly, crappy work but at least it's done now.
Yes it's one of those jobs that can be done on your own but ideally needs the help of an assistant. If I had to do it again I would rig up a winch on the engine steady bar and use that to take the weight of gearbox as trolley jack was bit heavy to move it around.
Good video I just wish you uploaded the video in between 3 and 4. You missed showing how you actually take the gear box off and move it, etc and then take apart the cover to get to it. Please upload the missing video showing how you did it. How much did you move the gear box, and which direction did you move it? Would be good to see the missing video
Hi, unfortunately the video files of removal and refit were corrupted and unusable. Regarding the removal, I used a large trolley jack under the gearbox to support it, sling a cargo or ratchet strap around it and pulled it towards passenger side to clear flywheel before lowering the jack. Does take a bit of manoeuvring to clear inner edge of front subframe. A second person will be useful as refitting also involves lifting and twisting. If I did it again (car is still in daily use) I would use a transmission support or some sort of ratchet winch to adjust height so gearbox to engine bolt holes line up.
The cable operated clutches on these usually don't need any adjustment so long as auto adjuster is working. There should be at least 5mm freeplay on the clutch release lever (on the gearbox) when lever is pulled back with cable still attached.
@@simonscott8636 Assuming adjuster is working normally, just need to connect up the cable at the gearbox end and then press pedal. Then check that clutch actuating lever can still be pulled back by minimum of 5mm. The freeplay is to ensure the cable isn't trying to pull on the lever all the time otherwise that leads to pressure on the release bearing.
Is there anyway to check if needs a new cable ? Wife had a clutch change less than 10k ago (no cable was changed then) clutch currently right at very top of pedal (no slipping though and changes gear ok) I mean she is not best driver and think she drags the clutch a bit so it’s possible will need another clutch change.
The clutch cables are self-adjusting because of a ratchet type mechanism within the cable housing but when it gets old and tired, the mechanism can effectively self tighten which can put force on the clutch release bearing much like resting one's foot on the clutch. New clutch cables are usually supplied pre-set with a strap that's only removed when the cable is fitted. When a cable has worn, the clutch action can feel stiff or heavy or like it's gone 'overcentre' As designs go, the torturous route the cable has to go through on right-hand drive cars means 206 clutch pedal feel was never brilliant even when new.
@@TK42138 so if cable needed replacement the biting point would be” lower “ / clutch would slip ? I think tbh she will need a new clutch. She’s known to go through clutches quickly (but not usually this quick). Thanks for the reply Lester
Haynes 4613 - Peugeot 206 - 2002 to 2006. Petrol 1.1 and 1.4 (8 & 16-valve), 1.6 8-valve, 2.0 litre and the 1.4 and 2.0 litre HDi diesels. This manual doesn't cover the 1.6 HDi or 1.9 XU diesels, the 1.6 litre 16-valve petrol engine or the GTi 180 models.
Many thanks, hoped it was useful. I lost some of the final footage showing all of the gearbox replacement thanks to a duff SD card. I allowed a weekend due to working alone. The lower balljoints put up a bit of a fight as they hadn't been apart and had just enough rust to lock them tight into the suspension arm. (The balljoint pin are parallel sided not tapered so can be very tight). Ideally try and get assistant when installing the gearbox. I ended up putting a big ratchet cargo strap around the gearbox and engine support bar to help position it. Trolley jack under the gearbox is vital. A wide flatblade screwdriver or thin pliers can be used to pop the gear selector rods.
Hi, as you tightened down the Allen bolts holding the pressure plate did the spring fingers compress towards the friction plate slightly?. I noticed as I did mine they moved inwards slightly and wasn't sure if that was correct . Many thanks
I reckon it took a day (without filming) once the suspension control arm balljoints finally separated. They put up a real fight which delayed removing the driveshafts and thus the gearbox. Working on a driveway with no assistance would slow things up so I'd allow a weekend to remove gearbox, fit new clutch and reinstall. I highly recommend getting a gearbox cradle adaptor for a trolley jack before refitting the g/box.
@@TK42138 thanks. I'd be wanting him to do most of it: I served my time at his age, on minis & midgets in the olden days 😵 I looked for gearbox cradle & they seem a bit of an investment for something we don't want to have to do again. I'll see if I can fabricate something as I've got some 3mm sheet steel spare.
@@jeffsadventures2124 Are the driveshafts fully engaged in the gearbox? Is the gear selector rods connected up? The only other reasons are; Differential gear failure. This is where diff ring gear separates from its hub so no drive to the driveshafts. Not aware of this happening on a Pug 206. Incorrect clutch or faulty parts. Not unknown for a new part to be faulty.
@@TK42138 the clutch i fitted was an after market clutch when the gearbox is on the floor and clicked into Gear both drive shafts turn by turning the box over manually but when on car the wheels turn freely could it be a faulty clutch
My mechanic changed the clutch but new cable is now too long so he added something to make it work but it doesnt work. He said to throw car away but I cant. So looking for answers. Would you have any advice? also I have oil lekage somewhere as everything under the hood is covered with oil. other than that awesome car :) thank you for any help. Great videos by the way. keep on filming.
It sounds like your clutch cable adjuster hasn't reset to take up the slack. Normally they do it automatically at the pedal end mechanism. Sometimes the mechanism fails and only a new cable will sort it. Bare in mind changing a 206 clutch cable is a bit involved because there's no room at the pedal end to access the mechanism on the pedal without moving the steering column (according to Haynes). If you get your mechanic to connect up the cable at the clutch end and then press the clutch pedal several times, it may reset it but if it's worn then it means a new cable.
@@TK42138 thank you. I will let him know. He did manage to fix everything but clutch felt weird after fitting so I took it to a friend and he showed me one piece is hitting another piece so I left it with mechanic again. Thanks for this. I learned a lot.
Sehr detailreiche Anleitung mit guten Bildern, die man als Hobbymechaniker braucht.
Vielen Dank
Great video, calm clear tuition...thanks!
This will help me when I need to replace the clutch on my 205. Thank you!
Well done Sir you save me some money 👍
Best videos i have ever see thank you very much!
Thank you. I wanted to include more details but lost some of the footage thanks to a bad memory card.
One of the best videos I have viewed. Well done and thank you.
Many thanks.
I lost some of the video files showing how to install the gearbox so unfortunately there is one or two sequences missing. The clock was also against me as the car needed to be back in use.
Superb video, thanks much for the work and the detail on fitment and process.
Shame about the gearbox re-fitting footage; had to do this myself. Absolute PIG of a job.
I recommend first draining the coolant and removing the bottom hose that feeds the heater; it's VERY tricky to work the box around it. Might also be worth adjusting the angle of the tabs on the hose clip that fixes that hose to the thermostat housing as one of the little tabs on it was fouling by gearbox re-entry. On that same "collection of miserable sh*t" that Peugeot decided to stick in your way some of the loom clipped in place was freed up and cable tied out of the way.
You yourself may be able to align the box without dropping the engine but I couldn't, and had to remove the rear mount (yes really) and drop it down at an angle gearbox-side to just barely fit it all together so the box cleared all the angles on the subframe. To aid alignment, cut down two part-threaded M10 bolts by taking the heads off (about 80mm should be long enough) and then cutting a little slit in the very end to fit a screwdriver; these can then be screwed into the two top gearbox bolt holes as sort of "sliders" and these will hang and align the box a little, taking the weight of it while you jostle the remaining supports around.
Further to this, the clutch was INSANELY fussy on the alignment angle. It took EIGHT attempts to get it lined up (I very nearly just forced it on. This was an ENTIRE DAY of dropping the box, checking, aligning, tweaking, rotating the crank a bit, fitting it up, it not working, dropping the box again etc etc.) And yes I used BOTH alignment tools I had, and in the end did it successfully by eye.
Grisly, crappy work but at least it's done now.
Yes it's one of those jobs that can be done on your own but ideally needs the help of an assistant. If I had to do it again I would rig up a winch on the engine steady bar and use that to take the weight of gearbox as trolley jack was bit heavy to move it around.
Good video I just wish you uploaded the video in between 3 and 4. You missed showing how you actually take the gear box off and move it, etc and then take apart the cover to get to it. Please upload the missing video showing how you did it. How much did you move the gear box, and which direction did you move it? Would be good to see the missing video
Hi, unfortunately the video files of removal and refit were corrupted and unusable. Regarding the removal, I used a large trolley jack under the gearbox to support it, sling a cargo or ratchet strap around it and pulled it towards passenger side to clear flywheel before lowering the jack. Does take a bit of manoeuvring to clear inner edge of front subframe. A second person will be useful as refitting also involves lifting and twisting. If I did it again (car is still in daily use) I would use a transmission support or some sort of ratchet winch to adjust height so gearbox to engine bolt holes line up.
@@TK42138 ok cool thanks, I am currently doing it all myself so will see how I go
Awesome video, what do you have to do to the clutch cable, as the cable is self adjusted
The cable operated clutches on these usually don't need any adjustment so long as auto adjuster is working. There should be at least 5mm freeplay on the clutch release lever (on the gearbox) when lever is pulled back with cable still attached.
@@TK42138 sorry to be a pain, I connect the cable then press down the clutch pedal slowly for it to adjust itself
@@simonscott8636 Assuming adjuster is working normally, just need to connect up the cable at the gearbox end and then press pedal. Then check that clutch actuating lever can still be pulled back by minimum of 5mm. The freeplay is to ensure the cable isn't trying to pull on the lever all the time otherwise that leads to pressure on the release bearing.
Did you lose the video of dissasembly of the gearbox and clutch ?
Was going to upload but lots of dropped frames and issues with video. (I was using my phone)
@@TK42138 thanx anyway for fantastic info videos.
Great videos mate, very informative Cheers
Brilliant video's
Is there anyway to check if needs a new cable ?
Wife had a clutch change less than 10k ago (no cable was changed then) clutch currently right at very top of pedal (no slipping though and changes gear ok) I mean she is not best driver and think she drags the clutch a bit so it’s possible will need another clutch change.
The clutch cables are self-adjusting because of a ratchet type mechanism within the cable housing but when it gets old and tired, the mechanism can effectively self tighten which can put force on the clutch release bearing much like resting one's foot on the clutch. New clutch cables are usually supplied pre-set with a strap that's only removed when the cable is fitted. When a cable has worn, the clutch action can feel stiff or heavy or like it's gone 'overcentre' As designs go, the torturous route the cable has to go through on right-hand drive cars means 206 clutch pedal feel was never brilliant even when new.
@@TK42138 so if cable needed replacement the biting point would be” lower “ / clutch would slip ? I think tbh she will need a new clutch. She’s known to go through clutches quickly (but not usually this quick).
Thanks for the reply
Lester
10:17 what manual is that?
Haynes 4613 - Peugeot 206 - 2002 to 2006. Petrol 1.1 and 1.4 (8 & 16-valve), 1.6 8-valve, 2.0 litre and the 1.4 and 2.0 litre HDi diesels.
This manual doesn't cover the 1.6 HDi or 1.9 XU diesels, the 1.6 litre 16-valve petrol engine or the GTi 180 models.
How long a job do you think in total, and will gear linkage come off with just a flat blade screwdriver.
Excellent vid.
Many thanks, hoped it was useful. I lost some of the final footage showing all of the gearbox replacement thanks to a duff SD card.
I allowed a weekend due to working alone. The lower balljoints put up a bit of a fight as they hadn't been apart and had just enough rust to lock them tight into the suspension arm. (The balljoint pin are parallel sided not tapered so can be very tight).
Ideally try and get assistant when installing the gearbox. I ended up putting a big ratchet cargo strap around the gearbox and engine support bar to help position it. Trolley jack under the gearbox is vital. A wide flatblade screwdriver or thin pliers can be used to pop the gear selector rods.
Hi, as you tightened down the Allen bolts holding the pressure plate did the spring fingers compress towards the friction plate slightly?. I noticed as I did mine they moved inwards slightly and wasn't sure if that was correct . Many thanks
That's ok. So long as the friction plate is centralised and the bolts on the cover plate are tightened equally in stages then all will be fine.
Great videos. Clear and lots of useful information about potential problems. How long would you reckon it took (without filming)? Many thanks.
I reckon it took a day (without filming) once the suspension control arm balljoints finally separated. They put up a real fight which delayed removing the driveshafts and thus the gearbox. Working on a driveway with no assistance would slow things up so I'd allow a weekend to remove gearbox, fit new clutch and reinstall. I highly recommend getting a gearbox cradle adaptor for a trolley jack before refitting the g/box.
Unfortunately I didn't film installation of gearbox as video files went south and we're unusable.
@@TK42138 Thanks. My son's watching your videos now AFAIK - It's his car and he's thinking he's going to do it himself (with my help). 👍
@@jonathanwebb9862 The job is definitely easier with two people.
@@TK42138 thanks. I'd be wanting him to do most of it: I served my time at his age, on minis & midgets in the olden days 😵 I looked for gearbox cradle & they seem a bit of an investment for something we don't want to have to do again. I'll see if I can fabricate something as I've got some 3mm sheet steel spare.
Hi i just changed a clutch but when I click the box in gear the road wheels just spin any ideas
Hi, do you mean when in gear, the engine revs but the car isn't moving?
@@TK42138 yes
@@jeffsadventures2124 Are the driveshafts fully engaged in the gearbox?
Is the gear selector rods connected up?
The only other reasons are;
Differential gear failure. This is where diff ring gear separates from its hub so no drive to the driveshafts. Not aware of this happening on a Pug 206.
Incorrect clutch or faulty parts. Not unknown for a new part to be faulty.
@@TK42138 the clutch i fitted was an after market clutch when the gearbox is on the floor and clicked into Gear both drive shafts turn by turning the box over manually but when on car the wheels turn freely could it be a faulty clutch
My mechanic changed the clutch but new cable is now too long so he added something to make it work but it doesnt work. He said to throw car away but I cant. So looking for answers. Would you have any advice? also I have oil lekage somewhere as everything under the hood is covered with oil. other than that awesome car :) thank you for any help. Great videos by the way. keep on filming.
Same car as in my video?
@@TK42138 yes. 206 2004 1.1
It sounds like your clutch cable adjuster hasn't reset to take up the slack. Normally they do it automatically at the pedal end mechanism. Sometimes the mechanism fails and only a new cable will sort it. Bare in mind changing a 206 clutch cable is a bit involved because there's no room at the pedal end to access the mechanism on the pedal without moving the steering column (according to Haynes). If you get your mechanic to connect up the cable at the clutch end and then press the clutch pedal several times, it may reset it but if it's worn then it means a new cable.
@@TK42138 thank you. I will let him know. He did manage to fix everything but clutch felt weird after fitting so I took it to a friend and he showed me one piece is hitting another piece so I left it with mechanic again. Thanks for this. I learned a lot.
He said to throw car LOL he sounds like he does not what he is doing. go to a different mechanic
Brilliant video's