I had this installed on my Cr10s Pro, redesigned the mounting plate to enable filament sensor to be mounted and made the plate light. I found hemera heavy, had issues with filament clogging, lost build volume. Hence went for the new Bondtech DDX for creality. Very happy with the new extruder. Its light in weight, fits flush with the build plate, no need for adapter to mount. No loss of build volume. Designed a bracket to mount the filament sensor. Works really well.
hemeras clog like crazy if your retractrion is too high and by too high i mean over .5mm haha i run about -.4 on mine, documentation says retraction equal to nozzle size
Glad you found an alternative solution. I have pretty much given up on the Hemera, I have 6 in various stages of working, I'm switching over to the OmniaDrop. Cost is not a concern to me, but support and does it work is. Max at Dropeffect has been great to work with, while E3D and FilamentOne have been, lets say distant at best. Here is my latest ongoing problem with the Hemera, ua-cam.com/video/Ff9FvZwxiW8/v-deo.html
I watch Chris’s videos and they are very helpful. One thing that got me on installing the Hemera was not changing linear advance in Marlin. The prints were terrible and it took me awhile to figure it out with the help of Facebook group.
Great video 👍 I designed and made my own aluminum backing plate and I do not loose any build volume on my Ender 3 or my CR-10S Pro. I run both my units at 0.6mm retraction @ 20mm/s retraction speed for most filament, for flexible I go down to 0.4 retraction @ 15mm/s retraction speed.
Compared to the Ender3 this extruder is expensive but when compared to other high quality extruders the Hemera is pretty cheap. I have had since it was first released and would highly recommend it.
i love my hemera but its on my tornadocube, i put a mosquito and BGM-M on my ender, that setup cost more than the printer haha plus i put the panucutt kinetica g2-c on it so basically not even an ernder anymore :(O)
Hey Chris, can you tell me how you find using that rear-mounted spool holder with Hemera? No issues to speak of? I see most people use the top mounted ones but they give me the heebie jeebies, any chance you've got a link to the one you're using or can recommend?
I don't get it. You want to avoid heat creep from the heater to the radiator, and that's where you put the heat compound. But you don't apply it between the heaterblock and heatbreak, thermistor and heater cartridge where it would actually make sense to use the compound. I would do t the other way around
In this config we are assuming the heat sink will have to do it's job, it will get some heat from the break. The compound helps the heat sink be as efficient as possible.
Chris, Good video! You pointed out some of the problems with using the Hemera, especially on Creality printers. You have to design a mount, or find one, The square nuts seem like a great idea, until you break the metal tabs, or loose the nuts (you will need extras - they disappear). Cabling must be made - new plugs and firmware changes. Then be ready for regular cleaning which involves removing the hobb gears to clean them and the motor gears. In my opinion the gears are too fine and get filament shavings and sometimes metal from the other gears stuck in the gear path. I have 5 Hemera units for 3 printers and glad I purchased spares as I have been cannibalizing them since parts are not available. They may start selling parts again, but they have never sold replacement gear trains and I need at least two of them. I am getting close to switching all of mine over to OmniaDrops, which are not perfect either, but seem to have solved many of the Hemera problems. Also on the Hemera, no way to feed filament manually,
@@CrymSyN007 can you provide the link? I have been in touch with both E3D and FilamentOne and all the parts that I need are sold out and have been for months. I have never seen the gear train listed. www.filamentone.com/collections/hemera-parts I was able to get a replacement for my defective gear train back in January, I had the broken gear problem, but have never been able to buy a replacement.
@@woodwaker1 well bro i cant find it myself, but i saw some on matterhackers or filementone several months ago because i thought i had a gear problem and was gonna order some in case, but i never did
Hey Dave, thanks first off. We will see what I can come up with as far as testing. Also, when they start making the Hemera again, I will get with Dave over at Printed Solid and see if he can stock all the spare parts for us.
I have a question. I have the Zesty Nimble and the E3D V6 Gold hot end. I see from your video and looking at my heater cartage, that the nozzle is not in the direct center of the heater block. It was never explained which way the heater block was supposed to be oriented. Right now I have the nozzle closer to the front of the assembly. It looks like yours is faced towards the back? Which is the correct orientation? Or does it matter? Thank You
So I have the hemera, and a BTT SKR E3 turbo board. I can see the connectors are 2b,1b,1a,2a. I think maybe even with being able to edit marlin I would have to change a few wires. Chris, or anybody have that situation and know the correct color order on the board side if I were to change the color order on the dupont board end? thank you.
I know I had to flip 2 of the wires, but I can't remember how it was from stock. You might just have to test it to figure it out. Here is the easiest way I know how to do it. ua-cam.com/video/D4oOZGvVTL8/v-deo.html
Do you lose any print volume on X, Y or Z axis with this mount? I watched another video where a different mount was used and he lost around 26mm on the Y axis which is a lot considering it's over 10% of the total.
What is the reasoning for the “correct” block orientation? I just bought a Hemera and I may have to rotate the block to make it fit with my machine. It seems like if it is rotated 90 degrees it wouldn’t hurt anything.
What screen are you using with the Ender? And will that screen work with a SKR board? The BTT screen is horrible and I don't want to go back to stock screen just yet
@@JohnGrahamYay This is the one I used, but I want to say the screen I used was smaller then the 5". You can probably alter this one pretty easy. drive.google.com/file/d/1DR6cPWskwNwOwXFhH_dBF2_ok1q12jU3/view?usp=sharing
Awesome install! Any thoughts on how it compares to the Omniadrop? It would be awesome to see an in-depth video regarding this since you have experience with both.
I also am interested in Chris's testing. I saw his review on the OmniaDrop and ordered two, because I have been having so many problems with my Hemeras. I made two errors in setting up my first Omniadrop, used the same e-motor current as I had been using for the Hemera (1000). This is much too high for the OmniaDrop, I ended up with 600. I also tried using a Copperhead with a 50 w heater. The combination put out so much heat that the 3D printed body warped. (with smoke). Not the OnmniaDrop's fault, all mine. I got fantastic service from Max at OmniaDrop, he shipped replacement parts for just shipping. I should have the second unit running soon. I also had to design a mount for my Ender 5 with linear rails and EZabl. It is still a work in progress, but am planning to switch everything over to the OmniaDrop from Hemera. I really am impressed with the drive system vs the Hemera and it mounts very easily. I'm not a you-tube pro, but here is what mine looks like - first successful print and an early mount. ua-cam.com/video/vehPMPwexpM/v-deo.html
Great Video Chris. I've been waiting a few months for it to be available again. unfortunately the support at e3d is not so good. do you know when it will be available again? if it takes too long i will choose another extruder. best regards
Love my Hemera on my Ender 3 so much I want another 5 of them for the rest of the farm. But, I did upgrade the heater to the 50w, because the 30w kept getting thermal under errors. It would drop blow the configured alarm level and halt the print.
I had a similar problem. I found the 50 W heaters and the cartridge themistors on Amazon are great replacements. I suggest that you get 5 of each, especially the thermistors. They tend to crush about $2 each a bargin www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3SMRLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP7XLTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Interesting video, but I don't really know who your audience is for this video, as you have reprap firmware on an ender3. I've always been curious as to who you really target your videos, as they are always high quality but with a few "Err ... Mate ... You're puting a 5000$ motor hub on a 200$ bike o_O ... Nice ... but ... what?" Perhaps there are ways to get the reprap firmware on more (cheap) boards than what I'm aware of?
That's the great part, I don't have a target audience for these, I just do what sounds like fun at the time. You can run RepRap on Paucatt boards, like this one, for about $80. Soon we will be running it on SKR boards.
@@ChrisRiley This explains that then x) , keep it up - On SKR boards? I thought they didn't have enough memory? Gotta admit that the arduino and rasp shield approach was very clever in a way, as it futureproofed the computational end of things, but then again I guess that non 100% dedicated hardware could run into issues as it's not running a firmware but an OS. I fully expect you to run a 3D printer off a 3000$ CPU once a genius programmer comes along and fixes that for the rest of us, mere mortals :3
@@J.L.M9714 Do you have the thermistor E0 set to 5? Adjust these settings in configuration_adv.h #if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS) #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius #define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 20 // Seconds #define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius #endif
@@ChrisRileyI think If e3d recommend that mounter they should include the setting for new bed size in firmware. Lost some of build volume is not a good thing but still better than the extruder crash into the frame at full speed. They need more transparent about that. Btw there are many other mounter does not have problem with that.
Hi Chris - interesting video, thanks. I fitted one to my Ender 5 a couple of months back and love it. One thing I really like the look of is the touch screen on that ender 3. Is that octoprint? how did you get the screen layout, is it some sort of default? thanks
You're not doing the MOSFET any favor by not running it on full blast. Actually, it's quite the opposite. Here's why: If you take a look at the datasheet you'll find a value RDS(on). That's the drain-source resistance of the MOSFET, when it's fully turned on. That's where you want it, since it has the least resistance in this state und thus the least amount of power goes to heat loss inside the MOSFET. Before reaching that state, the MOSFET has to go through a state called the ohmic region, where it behaves like a voltage controlled resistor. Furthermore, you have to consider that in reality there are always switching times involved (usually labeled t(on) and t(off) in the datasheet, due to internal capacitances/inductances) and while switching on and off, the MOSFET bangs through the ohmic region every single time and has a higher resistance than RDS(on) >> more heat. If the MOSFET can't even keep up with the switching frequency it might not even come out of this region and remain in self-frying-purgatory. That certainly won't happen with any common 3D printer mainboard, so don't worry about that unless you're doing HF stuff or have the most sluggish MOSFETs ever...which is very unlikely ;) I recommend looking up a datasheet for a MOSFET and just look through it. Helps understand my jibberish :D ...let's say a common one would be the IRLZ44N and IR has nice, ordered datasheets (IMHO). LINK: www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlz44n.pdf Happy learning, subbed btw :)
cool vid as usual! one thing, check extruder and tune, almost everyone is finding the 409 is WAY too much, I'm at 395 to get it to pull 100mm true length
@@woodwaker1 On my Ender 5 I ended up with: E392.70 . I tried to document my steps at www.randoprojects.com/2020/07/26/ender-5-w-hemera-and-duet-2/ I would be curious about the rest of your Ender 5 settings and tweaking.
Chris Riley the worst/best part is no filament can 3D print a new mount to withstand the raw power of 300c. Currently waiting on my v.1 mount. Then for v.2 I’ll increase the water intake.
It'd be SO MUCH work but It'd be amazing if someone with the resources installed different extruders/hotends on the exact same printer and printed the same files and tested the tolerances too. Like dragon + BMG, titan aero and Hemera etc
Have you looked at this hot end extruder? [US$69.72]0.4mm/1.75mm 3-in-1-out Hotend Multi Hot-end Extruder Nozzle for PLA ABS Filament 3D Printer Office Equipment from Computers & Office on banggood.com banggood.app.link/Qfcgm9InI7
I picked up 2 when it was released. Got one on my CoreXY and im in the process of installing it on a new ender 5. I absolutely love it on my coreXY its another level, especially with Nozzle X.
This was very helpful, I am completely updating my Anet A8 with an aluminum frame and will be using my old Ender 3 Pro board since I will be updating my Ender with a new board I had it laying around and the basic setup is so close. The Hemera is more difficult than plug and play upgrades like the Microswiss, which I think is a superior design, the Hemera has basic design flaws like the use of square nuts in a flimsy flange, a failure just waiting to happen, hopefully E3D will address with with a revision. I have a CR10 s Pro V2 and so far no mods, I do have silent fan upgrades, the stock fans are terrible.
18:46 The Ender 3 fan itself isn't that loud. What makes it loud is the grille. If you hold the fan in your hand while it's running it's reasonably quiet, but move it to it's mounting position on the grille and it's pitch and volume instantly becomes annoying. I've had great success in quieting it down by printing a small spacer (2-3mm, but the thicker the better) to move the fan away from the grille.
I installed the Hemera on my Sidewinder X1 with SKR 1.3 with TMC2209, runs very good, especially with flexibles. My MK3S does flexibles quite wel, but the X1 is king ;-)
@@ChrisRiley From what I can tell they have had a heap of quailty control issues and some engineering design fails. Hard to get any info especially over the last few months. Now I'm stuck with a beatuifully CNC machined adapter to mount this unit to my printer and I can't actually buy the extruder and have zero info if it will even be back. It's all quiet from E3D's end.
28:39 MOSFETs have the lowest losses when they are fully on. It does not make any sense to limit the max duty cycle to less than 100%. It just takes longer to reach the desired temperature.
Never put any on the cartridges for the printers i built and use as they fit very snuggly in the enclosed hole in the block and heat transfer is not an issue :) I use compound a lot, but only on the electronics power circuits i design
You should check the datasheet of the thermal paste, how high temp it can be used for. Most pastes end at 150-200 degC. Not surprising, as most are meant for using between heatsinks semiconductors.
If you ordered it anytime recently its not an earlier unit. They emailed out specifically letting everyone know they are making use of the old packaging / markings so as not to waste them :)
The manual for M569 says D3 = stealthChop and D0 = constant off time , But for V , Typical value are from 100 (high speed) to 4000 (low speed) , why 0 ?
I had this installed on my Cr10s Pro, redesigned the mounting plate to enable filament sensor to be mounted and made the plate light. I found hemera heavy, had issues with filament clogging, lost build volume. Hence went for the new Bondtech DDX for creality. Very happy with the new extruder. Its light in weight, fits flush with the build plate, no need for adapter to mount. No loss of build volume. Designed a bracket to mount the filament sensor. Works really well.
Cool, I have never seen that one actually.
hemeras clog like crazy if your retractrion is too high and by too high i mean over .5mm haha
i run about -.4 on mine, documentation says retraction equal to nozzle size
Glad you found an alternative solution. I have pretty much given up on the Hemera, I have 6 in various stages of working, I'm switching over to the OmniaDrop. Cost is not a concern to me, but support and does it work is. Max at Dropeffect has been great to work with, while E3D and FilamentOne have been, lets say distant at best. Here is my latest ongoing problem with the Hemera, ua-cam.com/video/Ff9FvZwxiW8/v-deo.html
Another great video. Really showed how easy it is to make major changes in RRF. Perfect timing also with the imminent re-release of the hemera.
Thanks Mike!
Those flexy Benchies are nuts!
Thanks Scott, yeah they came out really well.
Pro tip: put thermal paste on the square nuts to prevent them from falling out of the extruder motor when mounting.
Ah ha! Great tip!
That is a good tip! I have lost so many. Amazon has them fairly inexpensive, much better than moving work benches to find the dropped ones.
I used superglue, but like your idea better!
Or toothpaste
I watch Chris’s videos and they are very helpful. One thing that got me on installing the Hemera was not changing linear advance in Marlin. The prints were terrible and it took me awhile to figure it out with the help of Facebook group.
I'm glad you got it going!
Great video 👍 I designed and made my own aluminum backing plate and I do not loose any build volume on my Ender 3 or my CR-10S Pro. I run both my units at 0.6mm retraction @ 20mm/s retraction speed for most filament, for flexible I go down to 0.4 retraction @ 15mm/s retraction speed.
Thanks! Very nice setup!
Compared to the Ender3 this extruder is expensive but when compared to other high quality extruders the Hemera is pretty cheap. I have had since it was first released and would highly recommend it.
Totally agree with you. Just poking fun at the Ender 3 a bit.
i love my hemera but its on my tornadocube, i put a mosquito and BGM-M on my ender, that setup cost more than the printer haha plus i put the panucutt kinetica g2-c on it so basically not even an ernder anymore :(O)
i hope they have it back in stock soon :) Great video. thanks :D
E3d posted a picture of a batch of them. Should be available soon
I hope so too! I heard July, so we are close.
best video on hemera, thanks
Thank you!
Great info as always, thanks Chris
Thanks for watching!
My hotend is busted since the wire actually melted, I want to upgrade to this but how can I get mounting brackets if I can't print them myself?
I am sure someone in the community can print some for you.
shapeways will print them for a fee
That took a lot of convincing :) thanks for this video.
LOL, thanks for watching!
Hey Chris, can you tell me how you find using that rear-mounted spool holder with Hemera? No issues to speak of? I see most people use the top mounted ones but they give me the heebie jeebies, any chance you've got a link to the one you're using or can recommend?
Yeah, I don't dig the top mount ones. I still like using separate ones. This in the one from the video.
I don't get it.
You want to avoid heat creep from the heater to the radiator, and that's where you put the heat compound.
But you don't apply it between the heaterblock and heatbreak, thermistor and heater cartridge where it would actually make sense to use the compound.
I would do t the other way around
In this config we are assuming the heat sink will have to do it's job, it will get some heat from the break. The compound helps the heat sink be as efficient as possible.
Chris, Good video! You pointed out some of the problems with using the Hemera, especially on Creality printers. You have to design a mount, or find one, The square nuts seem like a great idea, until you break the metal tabs, or loose the nuts (you will need extras - they disappear). Cabling must be made - new plugs and firmware changes. Then be ready for regular cleaning which involves removing the hobb gears to clean them and the motor gears. In my opinion the gears are too fine and get filament shavings and sometimes metal from the other gears stuck in the gear path. I have 5 Hemera units for 3 printers and glad I purchased spares as I have been cannibalizing them since parts are not available. They may start selling parts again, but they have never sold replacement gear trains and I need at least two of them. I am getting close to switching all of mine over to OmniaDrops, which are not perfect either, but seem to have solved many of the Hemera problems.
Also on the Hemera, no way to feed filament manually,
you can buy the gear trains
@@CrymSyN007 can you provide the link? I have been in touch with both E3D and FilamentOne and all the parts that I need are sold out and have been for months. I have never seen the gear train listed. www.filamentone.com/collections/hemera-parts
I was able to get a replacement for my defective gear train back in January, I had the broken gear problem, but have never been able to buy a replacement.
@@woodwaker1 well bro i cant find it myself, but i saw some on matterhackers or filementone several months ago because i thought i had a gear problem and was gonna order some in case, but i never did
Hey Dave, thanks first off. We will see what I can come up with as far as testing. Also, when they start making the Hemera again, I will get with Dave over at Printed Solid and see if he can stock all the spare parts for us.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris. I will send you some pictures of a unit I'm going to disassemble. It is covered with a brown.
I have a question. I have the Zesty Nimble and the E3D V6 Gold hot end. I see from your video and looking at my heater cartage, that the nozzle is not in the direct center of the heater block. It was never explained which way the heater block was supposed to be oriented. Right now I have the nozzle closer to the front of the assembly. It looks like yours is faced towards the back? Which is the correct orientation? Or does it matter? Thank You
It shouldn't matter, which ever is more convenient for you setup and keeps it away from fan drafts.
So I have the hemera, and a BTT SKR E3 turbo board. I can see the connectors are 2b,1b,1a,2a. I think maybe even with being able to edit marlin I would have to change a few wires. Chris, or anybody have that situation and know the correct color order on the board side if I were to change the color order on the dupont board end? thank you.
I know I had to flip 2 of the wires, but I can't remember how it was from stock. You might just have to test it to figure it out. Here is the easiest way I know how to do it. ua-cam.com/video/D4oOZGvVTL8/v-deo.html
Do you lose any print volume on X, Y or Z axis with this mount? I watched another video where a different mount was used and he lost around 26mm on the Y axis which is a lot considering it's over 10% of the total.
This one is about the same, around 20mm loss on Y.
What is the reasoning for the “correct” block orientation? I just bought a Hemera and I may have to rotate the block to make it fit with my machine. It seems like if it is rotated 90 degrees it wouldn’t hurt anything.
I think it's just trying to get you in a good place to use the fan mounts and such. It probably won't impact much.
Not to be picky but the duet interface to change firmware is much different than a stock ender 3. Great video, just a misleading title.
Noted.
What screen are you using with the Ender? And will that screen work with a SKR board? The BTT screen is horrible and I don't want to go back to stock screen just yet
It's a Panel Due, and they only work on Duet and some Panucatt boards.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, I’ve been looking for a good mount for the paneldue 5i on my Ender 3 Pro. Can you share the details of your screen mount?
@@JohnGrahamYay This is the one I used, but I want to say the screen I used was smaller then the 5". You can probably alter this one pretty easy. drive.google.com/file/d/1DR6cPWskwNwOwXFhH_dBF2_ok1q12jU3/view?usp=sharing
Awesome install! Any thoughts on how it compares to the Omniadrop? It would be awesome to see an in-depth video regarding this since you have experience with both.
Thanks! Yes, I hope to do a video like that. It's going to take a bunch of testing.
I also am interested in Chris's testing. I saw his review on the OmniaDrop and ordered two, because I have been having so many problems with my Hemeras. I made two errors in setting up my first Omniadrop, used the same e-motor current as I had been using for the Hemera (1000). This is much too high for the OmniaDrop, I ended up with 600. I also tried using a Copperhead with a 50 w heater. The combination put out so much heat that the 3D printed body warped. (with smoke). Not the OnmniaDrop's fault, all mine. I got fantastic service from Max at OmniaDrop, he shipped replacement parts for just shipping. I should have the second unit running soon. I also had to design a mount for my Ender 5 with linear rails and EZabl. It is still a work in progress, but am planning to switch everything over to the OmniaDrop from Hemera. I really am impressed with the drive system vs the Hemera and it mounts very easily. I'm not a you-tube pro, but here is what mine looks like - first successful print and an early mount. ua-cam.com/video/vehPMPwexpM/v-deo.html
Great Video Chris. I've been waiting a few months for it to be available again. unfortunately the support at e3d is not so good. do you know when it will be available again? if it takes too long i will choose another extruder. best regards
Thanks! I heard everything should be going again around the first of July.
Chris Riley Hopefully 😅👍
Hey Chris, you know that GeeTech printer we have? Is that convertible to Direct extrusion?
My geeetech prob is direct drive already, but it would be a perfect fit for a Hemera.
@@ChrisRiley I'll check on this thing. Looks cool.
@@ChrisRiley OMG I'm an idiot. Yeah, just looked at it and yeah, already direct drive... 🙄
Love my Hemera on my Ender 3 so much I want another 5 of them for the rest of the farm.
But, I did upgrade the heater to the 50w, because the 30w kept getting thermal under errors. It would drop blow the configured alarm level and halt the print.
Nice! I am looking forward to testing it further.
I had a similar problem. I found the 50 W heaters and the cartridge themistors on Amazon are great replacements.
I suggest that you get 5 of each, especially the thermistors. They tend to crush about $2 each a bargin
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3SMRLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MP7XLTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In case anybody else is looking for a good 50w heater, TH3D has a great one that can last you months, plus it's crazy cheap.
Interesting video, but I don't really know who your audience is for this video, as you have reprap firmware on an ender3. I've always been curious as to who you really target your videos, as they are always high quality but with a few "Err ... Mate ... You're puting a 5000$ motor hub on a 200$ bike o_O ... Nice ... but ... what?"
Perhaps there are ways to get the reprap firmware on more (cheap) boards than what I'm aware of?
That's the great part, I don't have a target audience for these, I just do what sounds like fun at the time. You can run RepRap on Paucatt boards, like this one, for about $80. Soon we will be running it on SKR boards.
@@ChrisRiley This explains that then x) , keep it up - On SKR boards? I thought they didn't have enough memory?
Gotta admit that the arduino and rasp shield approach was very clever in a way, as it futureproofed the computational end of things, but then again I guess that non 100% dedicated hardware could run into issues as it's not running a firmware but an OS.
I fully expect you to run a 3D printer off a 3000$ CPU once a genius programmer comes along and fixes that for the rest of us, mere mortals :3
Any idea why I would be going into thermal runaway 🤔?
On the Hemera?
@@ChrisRiley yeah I'm stumped lol
I'm using marlin
Sorry vs code
@@J.L.M9714 Do you have the thermistor E0 set to 5? Adjust these settings in configuration_adv.h
#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius
#define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 20 // Seconds
#define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius
#endif
So we still have full 235mm on X with that mounter?
You might loose about 3-4mm at the home position, but not much at all.
@@ChrisRileyI think If e3d recommend that mounter they should include the setting for new bed size in firmware. Lost some of build volume is not a good thing but still better than the extruder crash into the frame at full speed. They need more transparent about that. Btw there are many other mounter does not have problem with that.
Hi Chris - interesting video, thanks. I fitted one to my Ender 5 a couple of months back and love it. One thing I really like the look of is the touch screen on that ender 3. Is that octoprint? how did you get the screen layout, is it some sort of default? thanks
Hey, it's a panelDue. I just a RepRap firmware Panucatt G2-C on this printer right now and it is compatible with these touch screens.
@@ChrisRiley thanks Chris - looks very interesting
That's a different 24V fan than what I got with mine? Mind sharing the PN? I'm looking for something quieter.
This is the clear E3D one, but it's pretty noisey. I get it from here. www.printedsolid.com/products/40mm-fan?variant=47736357580
Amazon had one them as well amzn.to/2PkpYOO
do you still recommend the Hemera in 2021?
Yes!
@@ChrisRiley have you tried the H2? would love to see a comparison video
@@davidvalens3337 I have one on my BX, they are okay, a lot lighter than the Hemera for sure. I show them side by side in the BX video.
@@ChrisRiley which one would you choose over the other?
Great
Thanks!
You're not doing the MOSFET any favor by not running it on full blast. Actually, it's quite the opposite.
Here's why:
If you take a look at the datasheet you'll find a value RDS(on). That's the drain-source resistance of the MOSFET, when it's fully turned on.
That's where you want it, since it has the least resistance in this state und thus the least amount of power goes to heat loss inside the MOSFET.
Before reaching that state, the MOSFET has to go through a state called the ohmic region, where it behaves like a voltage controlled resistor.
Furthermore, you have to consider that in reality there are always switching times involved (usually labeled t(on) and t(off) in the datasheet, due to internal capacitances/inductances) and while switching on and off, the MOSFET bangs through the ohmic region every single time and has a higher resistance than RDS(on) >> more heat. If the MOSFET can't even keep up with the switching frequency it might not even come out of this region and remain in self-frying-purgatory. That certainly won't happen with any common 3D printer mainboard, so don't worry about that unless you're doing HF stuff or have the most sluggish MOSFETs ever...which is very unlikely ;)
I recommend looking up a datasheet for a MOSFET and just look through it. Helps understand my jibberish :D ...let's say a common one would be the IRLZ44N and IR has nice, ordered datasheets (IMHO). LINK: www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlz44n.pdf
Happy learning, subbed btw :)
Thanks for the info and I will have a look for sure.
Why does it sound like you're saying RIPrap instead of RepRap? Lol
It's a bad habit.
What is that web interface?
That is the RepRap firmware using the Duet DWC.
@@ChrisRiley that's a thing of Beauty. Thanks Chris.
cool vid as usual! one thing, check extruder and tune, almost everyone is finding the 409 is WAY too much, I'm at 395 to get it to pull 100mm true length
Thanks for the tip Thom!
Same here - I'm at 360 on my Ender 5
@@woodwaker1 On my Ender 5 I ended up with: E392.70 . I tried to document my steps at www.randoprojects.com/2020/07/26/ender-5-w-hemera-and-duet-2/ I would be curious about the rest of your Ender 5 settings and tweaking.
Oh you think that’s expensive...let me introduce titan aqua
lol, i'll bet!
Chris Riley the worst/best part is no filament can 3D print a new mount to withstand the raw power of 300c. Currently waiting on my v.1 mount. Then for v.2 I’ll increase the water intake.
It'd be SO MUCH work but It'd be amazing if someone with the resources installed different extruders/hotends on the exact same printer and printed the same files and tested the tolerances too. Like dragon + BMG, titan aero and Hemera etc
I have thought about that a lot, it's just so hard to do. I would take months to get that done.
Have you looked at this hot end extruder?
[US$69.72]0.4mm/1.75mm 3-in-1-out Hotend Multi Hot-end Extruder Nozzle for PLA ABS Filament 3D Printer Office Equipment from Computers & Office on banggood.com
banggood.app.link/Qfcgm9InI7
No, but it looks like a beast.
I picked up 2 when it was released. Got one on my CoreXY and im in the process of installing it on a new ender 5. I absolutely love it on my coreXY its another level, especially with Nozzle X.
Sweet! Glad you are enjoying them.
This was very helpful, I am completely updating my Anet A8 with an aluminum frame and will be using my old Ender 3 Pro board since I will be updating my Ender with a new board I had it laying around and the basic setup is so close. The Hemera is more difficult than plug and play upgrades like the Microswiss, which I think is a superior design, the Hemera has basic design flaws like the use of square nuts in a flimsy flange, a failure just waiting to happen, hopefully E3D will address with with a revision. I have a CR10 s Pro V2 and so far no mods, I do have silent fan upgrades, the stock fans are terrible.
Thanks! Yeah, we will see where E3D takes this one. The square nuts are kind of a pain.
18:46 The Ender 3 fan itself isn't that loud. What makes it loud is the grille. If you hold the fan in your hand while it's running it's reasonably quiet, but move it to it's mounting position on the grille and it's pitch and volume instantly becomes annoying. I've had great success in quieting it down by printing a small spacer (2-3mm, but the thicker the better) to move the fan away from the grille.
Great tip man, I also burned my original up, the one I replaced it with is a beast. I need to find another one.
I installed the Hemera on my Sidewinder X1 with SKR 1.3 with TMC2209, runs very good, especially with flexibles. My MK3S does flexibles quite wel, but the X1 is king ;-)
Very nice! Sounds like a great combo.
Awesome video but I wish you compared the prints from before and after the upgrade!
Good idea! That will be part of my Ender3 upgrade series.
Can I just invite you to my house to get my RepRapGuru i3 clone working? You'd probably have it working for the first print in like 30 minutes...lol.
🙂
Impossible to buy anywhere it seems.
That sucks, I need to find out what is going on with E3D.
@@ChrisRiley From what I can tell they have had a heap of quailty control issues and some engineering design fails. Hard to get any info especially over the last few months. Now I'm stuck with a beatuifully CNC machined adapter to mount this unit to my printer and I can't actually buy the extruder and have zero info if it will even be back. It's all quiet from E3D's end.
I got 50 pounds of store credit so I'm tempted. But even the other 60 pounds is a lot for me :/
It's a pretty nice setup for sure.
@@ChrisRiley *TEMPTS EVEN MORE*
I guess I can wait until they release a pancake stepper version? tho with corona god knows when that happens
Chris I put one on my FT-6 and it’s been amazing.
Sweet!
28:39 MOSFETs have the lowest losses when they are fully on. It does not make any sense to limit the max duty cycle to less than 100%. It just takes longer to reach the desired temperature.
I don't disagree with you, but at 100% mine would overshoot so high it would trigger an error.
@@ChrisRiley That's very interesting. Does that happen even after a fresh PID tune?
That extruder driver heatsink is giving me a nightmare being tilted like that
LOL, yeah, I think I even adjusted it.
Did you seriously put in the thermistor cartridge and heater cartridge in without any kind of thermal compound!!?
Yep!
Never put any on the cartridges for the printers i built and use as they fit very snuggly in the enclosed hole in the block and heat transfer is not an issue :) I use compound a lot, but only on the electronics power circuits i design
You should check the datasheet of the thermal paste, how high temp it can be used for. Most pastes end at 150-200 degC. Not surprising, as most are meant for using between heatsinks semiconductors.
Dang, still not available.
I noticed the released a few then they went into backorder again, hopefully they catch up soon.
If you ordered it anytime recently its not an earlier unit. They emailed out specifically letting everyone know they are making use of the old packaging / markings so as not to waste them :)
Just for fun, I looked, I got mine 12/9/19
@@ChrisRiley So nearly a year ago :P
What is the name of the application (RepRap?) that you are using to modify the Gcode and where can I get it?
In the reprap software select from the menu: Settings/system editor/config.g
@25:37 he's using VSCODE by Microsoft to edit the configuration.h file. Free online.
You might also be referring to the Duet DWC. duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Web_Control_Manual
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris. Yes that was what I was looking for.
@@ChrisRiley downloadable from here if anyone else is interested in it... github.com/Duet3D/DuetWebControl
could you link us to the updated firmware for the hemera
Here is my whole RRF ender3 Hemera config. drive.google.com/file/d/12a8cQeM1me85T4xG1Qnm8B5psHBTKl1Z/view?usp=sharing
Oh do you have the one for marlin
I am on a stock board XD
@@jeffyboi8131 I don't, 3D Maker Noob might have something.
The manual for M569 says D3 = stealthChop and D0 = constant off time , But for V , Typical value are from 100 (high speed) to 4000 (low speed) , why 0 ?
V0 seemed to allow it to stay in Stealth mode rather than jumping to spread cycle. Not sure why it worked actually.
Where did you buy Hemera?
I got mine from Printed Solid. www.printedsolid.com/products/e3d-hemera?variant=31396551065685
Chris Riley but the Hemera is Sold Out for weeks now.....
Chris Riley I am in Italy 😩
@@Giovanni2862 You would probably be better off getting it from E3D, or take a look at OmniaDrop www.dropeffect.com/
dude, have you ever heard of a wrench? you do not use pliers on hex-style nuts and nozzles. what a sin.
Clam down, it will be okay.
How can I find out more about that LCD for the printer?
This will help ua-cam.com/video/956z_XINp68/v-deo.html
Thanks for this help! Can you make us a little video to slice them like Prusa slicer and or Ideamaker Thank you
I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching!
First!
Nice work!