Found this video really helpful, myself and teenage son used it in a recent bush changeout. Local mechanic quoted $1,500 so we did it ourselves for a couple of hundred. Rod bushing was a pain to get out though (VY now 20yrs old), was belting with a 2lb hammer and stepped drift, but wouldn't budge. For anyone who comes up with the same issue, go to Autobarn and get a $20 bearing puller, which did the job in 2mins.
Excellent video. As Im not a mechanic your use of plain language and covering every aspect has increased my confidence in achieving a good result. Thank you.
Hi Alex, great video, very informative & clear. I have a WL Statesman. Today I changed radius rod bushes. My r/h side was slightly difficult due to auto trans cooler lines in the way. Mine didn't come off as easily as yours did. L/h side was so much easier, however, you show by putting grease on the outside of bushes when the instructions state only to grease inside bush before crush tube is fitted & the end faces of bush only. Only grease pivot points only. Thanks again.
Explained it so we all know the right way and in detail no cutting corners. Do not rush when its your way of getting out and about better to do it right first time than to having to spend more $$$ slow and steady wins the race. Check those jacks and stands 10 times to make sure its safe.. cheers thanks Alex.
Thanks MarioBro! I do not think that final tightening needs to be done on a road because radius rods still have vertical movement in both positions:on a road and on stands). I tighten it with torque wrench while my car was on stands. Nolathane kit comes with front washers only, for rear end of the rods re utilize existing washers (providing that they are not badly bent or warn off).Both sides have to have washers. I placed 2 Nolathane front washers thickest and second thickest - that gave very good performance.
i got same issues with my vz commo went to mechanic today said would cost over 1100 bucks to fix that coz apparently he needs to use a machine to compress the bushes and bla bla said its 4.5 hours of labour i started laughing my ass off thanks for the guide mate i spent 15.46$ aftermarket bushes and did it myself after watching you video.
The onley thing he for got to say ,the small washers are for setting the caster rod length to locate the wheel in right place for correct carster setting .there should be different thinkness small washers to achieve this.
Thanks for a great tutorial. I've recently done the front radius rod bushes on my VX. Had to leave the rears as I could not get the nut to budge and ran out of time, but will try the jack trick to take some pressure off the rod and give them another shot. I should be able to just undo the 4 nuts on the front bushes to slide the rod out to clear the rear bushes.
Great video Mate. went for a Rego check and needed this done. The mechanic told me what i needed and to go to Repco. Also gave me a run down of what to do but watching your video has made it absolutely, crystal clear. Cheer Mate. Appreciate your work 😉
I just subscribed to your videos. You instructions and what tools to use is so clear and helpfull . My mechanics told me they were too busy so i saw your video and did radius rod bushings myself.thank you so much.
Thanks! I hope it will be as easy for you as it was for me! Thanks! By the way, REPCO had a best deal on Nolathane bushes.( NRMA card gives a big discount there).
Hello mate today i put nolathane bushes radis in my vt after watching you video let me tell you how easy it was . thanks to you my friend . thank you thank you thank you thank you
I'm sorry to be negative but pls dont say just use what ever spacer you want because those spacers are for technicians to align your wheel properly! big spacer brings the wheel forward in the wheel arch and smaller lets it sit back more
Yes! , it looks like he hasn't set it up for the standard caster settings, rather set up to give 1 or so degrees of positive caster,I replaced the Whiteline ones on my VY SS Commodore with used Nolathane caster bushes as the urethane hardened up & split. My dad & my brother went through his (my dads) VX Commodore again with Nolathane bushes as only some of them wore out (rear control,radius rod,front lower control arm,etc) but the caster bushes were still o.k. on the VX, so I reused the old bushes in my VY today, as they were replaced with brand new bushes in the VX. The VY noticeably stops better now since I did that.
What are symptoms when these are bad? I have a very nice, low mile GTO that shakes when I apply the brakes when slowing from a very high speed. I put all new high end Wilwood brakes and still has the exact same shake when braking from high speeds. Could the radius rod bushings be causing my issue?
Great video, but always remember to tighten all nuts with a torque wrench, with the correct torque settings. Main nut on the rod is 148Nm and 24Nm for the small nuts.
What a awesome video mate thank you so much now I can do it my self as I got a white Holden vy acclaim sedan I watch the video as it was easy I thought it was hard as I'm deaf I'm learning about cars as I can I'm sick of waisting my money on rip off mechanicals
Left hand side is forward 1+ degree caster, Right hand side is standard, 0 degree, caster setting, the uneven setting is to counter the camber of the left hand side of the road.
Mate you should do more Holden repair vids. Very well done, clear and to the point. So much better than some of the vids out there done by morons that have no idea what they are doing. They think they do and that just makes them dangerous to themselves and others.
Hi sfk555! Thanks for being part of my Holden story! You are absolutely right. The pack, or rather instructions, say : apply the lubricant on internal surface. But, no one knows what is the condition of rods and housing in your vehicle. Is it corroded or detoriated in any possible way? Do not forget that VY, VZ, VX are the cars with 10 years or so behind them. I'd say, most importantly, do not forget to lubricate inside! External lubrication is my preventative maintenance measure rather than performance issue. Every car has an individual history and the owner always makes a final desicion. Best regards!
after i installed nolathane bushes in radius rod i took it for a wheel alignment the guy could not align wheels 1.4 out any ideas out there....??????? baz
this guy is pretty game using imperial sizes on a 2001 model holden, also its called a caster bar not a radius bar in Australia for everyone who wants to know wtf a radius bar is. good video though
Very informative although my control arm bushes keep popping thru to the rear of the control arm. I see you use washers, I have seen vids where they don't use them. Hmmm, maybe my problem.....
Hi Alex i see you havent posted for quite awhile but do you have any info on installing the Rear Sub-Frame Mounting bushes on a VZ Nolathane Part # 49145 Thankyou in advance
You DO NOT put the lubricant on the outside of the bush ,it goes on the crush tube & the outer faces of the bush not on the sectiopn in the control arm
Hi Andrew! You are right. The rear bushes were worn off. I would do it even if were not.In my opinion a combination of different materials (rubber and nylon) would not produce a desired result. In addition to that is time - I did it all in one go.Thank you!
'Fantastic and informative. Just wondering what is the difference between Superpro product and the red ones you are using. Does it affect ride quality, is it stiffer etc"?
Yes, it definitely improves handling, especially around corners. A car with it obtains more stability. Think it this way, whats more resistant to the physical torque: rubber or nylon? Answer is obvious:)
+Alex Zhigunov Superpro are just as good if not better. Australian made product also. I think some don't like them because they are dark blue and look standard. But I consider that a good thing. I know of a very well respected suspension shop here in Perth that only uses Superpro because of the constant warranty issues they have had with Nolethane in the past. Having said that I have used both brands on five of my Holdens (old classics and Commodore's) and had no problems.
Hi Mic, Sorry for late response! Yes a little(day or two), as I understand it happens with the shoe pads - they are wearing in. However if it continuous the pads are not alligned properly.
Mr. forte . Thank you for you comment! The best option is to look in your Car manual for points of support ( changing tyre section) there are few. The important thing to remember- the main points of support have to be on the main "beams" of the chassi ( the ones which go all the way from front to rear. Please make sure that support legs are locked with pins and positioned on stable horizontal surface (no angles). Putting a brick or a timber piece in front/back of rear wheels will prevent car from possible rolling when your lift your vehicle by a jack.
Great video although I'm baffled as to why you gave us SAE sizes for bolts. You're obviously not American, working on an Australian car that solely uses metric.
Because the tooling at the Holden factory was Imperial/SAE and they just kept running along with it - the cost of making new tooling is too great. Ford Australia did the same thing. My 2004 VY commodore uses SAE sizes.
The only place that the Commodores use SAE sizes is in the Buick L36 motor (ECOTEC V6) which has a mix of imperial & metric bolts in them still,the body & suspension on the Commodores has been all metric. That was the last imperial 6 cylinder engine ever fitted into a Holden,the LS1 engine in my VY is all metric & the LY7 (Alloytec) V6 engine in the VZ is all metric as well. I'm not sure about the Dana M80 IRS diff but the crownwheel bolts inside the solid Borg Warner 78 series units were imperial left hand threaded bolts (5/8 inch bolt heads). The VL Commodore fitted with the Nissan RB30 engine was the first fully metric Holden (minus the diff) but the 5 litre VL still had the imperial sizing with the 304 CI V8 engine,they went backwards in the VN Commodore when they fitted the LN3 V6 engine (3.8 litre) which was a "bitsa" of a motor with a mixture if imperial & metric bolt sizes inside & on the engine. The metric sizes were external for such things as the serpentine belt pulley bolts,alternator mounting bolts,etc.
Found this video really helpful, myself and teenage son used it in a recent bush changeout. Local mechanic quoted $1,500 so we did it ourselves for a couple of hundred. Rod bushing was a pain to get out though (VY now 20yrs old), was belting with a 2lb hammer and stepped drift, but wouldn't budge. For anyone who comes up with the same issue, go to Autobarn and get a $20 bearing puller, which did the job in 2mins.
Excellent video. As Im not a mechanic your use of plain language and covering every aspect has increased my confidence in achieving a good result. Thank you.
Hi Alex, great video, very informative & clear. I have a WL Statesman. Today I changed radius rod bushes. My r/h side was slightly difficult due to auto trans cooler lines in the way. Mine didn't come off as easily as yours did. L/h side was so much easier, however, you show by putting grease on the outside of bushes when the instructions state only to grease inside bush before crush tube is fitted & the end faces of bush only. Only grease pivot points only. Thanks again.
Explained it so we all know the right way and in detail no cutting corners. Do not rush when its your way of getting out and about better to do it right first time than to having to spend more $$$ slow and steady wins the race. Check those jacks and stands 10 times to make sure its safe.. cheers thanks Alex.
Ive alway been shit scared to do suspenion you made it look so easy i look forwad to swearing a tone next week
Thanks MarioBro!
I do not think that final tightening needs to be done on a road because radius rods still have vertical movement in both positions:on a road and on stands). I tighten it with torque wrench while my car was on stands.
Nolathane kit comes with front washers only, for rear end of the rods re utilize existing washers (providing that they are not badly bent or warn off).Both sides have to have washers. I placed 2 Nolathane front washers thickest and second thickest - that gave very good performance.
do the thickness of the washers affect castor? More thickness = less castor?
i got same issues with my vz commo went to mechanic today said would cost over 1100 bucks to fix that coz apparently he needs to use a machine to compress the bushes and bla bla said its 4.5 hours of labour i started laughing my ass off thanks for the guide mate i spent 15.46$ aftermarket bushes and did it myself after watching you video.
The onley thing he for got to say ,the small washers are for setting the caster rod length to locate the wheel in right place for correct carster setting .there should be different thinkness small washers to achieve this.
I love how @7:39 it went from a control arm tutorial to an F1 pit crew
Thanks for a great tutorial. I've recently done the front radius rod bushes on my VX. Had to leave the rears as I could not get the nut to budge and ran out of time, but will try the jack trick to take some pressure off the rod and give them another shot. I should be able to just undo the 4 nuts on the front bushes to slide the rod out to clear the rear bushes.
very helpful, the rear bushes were a pain to knock out but got there in the end. a great video, was very helpful.
Great video Mate.
went for a Rego check and needed this done.
The mechanic told me what i needed and to go to Repco. Also gave me a run down of what to do but watching your video has made it absolutely, crystal clear.
Cheer Mate. Appreciate your work 😉
fantastic video mate really went through it cheers
I just subscribed to your videos.
You instructions and what tools to use is so clear and helpfull . My mechanics told me they were too busy so i saw your video and did radius rod bushings myself.thank you so much.
You are welcome! Thank you!
Thanks! I hope it will be as easy for you as it was for me! Thanks! By the way, REPCO had a best deal on Nolathane bushes.( NRMA card gives a big discount there).
Hello mate today i put nolathane bushes radis in my vt after watching you video let me tell you how easy it was . thanks to you my friend . thank you thank you thank you thank you
you should really lubricate the faces of the new bushes where they contact the washers and locktite the 30mm rear nut as it can vibrate loose. cheers
I'm sorry to be negative but pls dont say just use what ever spacer you want because those spacers are for technicians to align your wheel properly! big spacer brings the wheel forward in the wheel arch and smaller lets it sit back more
Yes! , it looks like he hasn't set it up for the standard caster settings, rather set up to give 1 or so degrees of positive caster,I replaced the Whiteline ones on my VY SS Commodore with used Nolathane caster bushes as the urethane hardened up & split.
My dad & my brother went through his (my dads) VX Commodore again with Nolathane bushes as only some of them wore out (rear control,radius rod,front lower control arm,etc) but the caster bushes were still o.k. on the VX, so I reused the old bushes in my VY today, as they were replaced with brand new bushes in the VX.
The VY noticeably stops better now since I did that.
Yeah im sure the spacers go behind the bush to give u the caster u need
What are symptoms when these are bad? I have a very nice, low mile GTO that shakes when I apply the brakes when slowing from a very high speed. I put all new high end Wilwood brakes and still has the exact same shake when braking from high speeds. Could the radius rod bushings be causing my issue?
@@baby-sharkgto4902 that'd be the issue to do this replacement to stop the brake shake.
@@Loadedchamberrecords thanks, I replaced them a couple of years ago and sure enough the vibrations went away.
Best how to video I've ever seen mate. So descriptive, and Even giving all the tool sizes. Hope to see more videos from you mate.
Finally a video that shows you exactly how to do this. Thanks good job.
Thank you!
Thankyou very much , well presented and easy to understand. I was looking for a video like this for a long time. It has made it clear to me.
You are a good man. I will find this very helpful this weekend. I also need to do the rear subframe mounts, I look for this video too
Great video, but always remember to tighten all nuts with a torque wrench, with the correct torque settings.
Main nut on the rod is 148Nm and 24Nm for the small nuts.
Awesome video mate hope to see more howto's in the future
cheers mate, just done cooling system in my VTII commodoregoing to do bushes this weekend, now I know how too! Awesome vid, clear and the facts
Hi damien! This video is not a commercial for Nolathane Bushes,but rather my version of installing it.
P.S. I am happy with mine:)
im sorry, @ 3:15 the bush needs to come out... I wait with bated breath, then, miraculously, it's out!!
how did THAT happen??
What a awesome video mate thank you so much now I can do it my self as I got a white Holden vy acclaim sedan I watch the video as it was easy I thought it was hard as I'm deaf I'm learning about cars as I can I'm sick of waisting my money on rip off mechanicals
Great video, filming and explanation very clear. Well done!
Thank you Alan!
Good video mate very helpful gonna do my VQ statesman tomorrow, little different but same principal.
Left hand side is forward 1+ degree caster, Right hand side is standard, 0 degree, caster setting, the uneven setting is to counter the camber of the left hand side of the road.
Mate you should do more Holden repair vids. Very well done, clear and to the point. So much better than some of the vids out there done by morons that have no idea what they are doing. They think they do and that just makes them dangerous to themselves and others.
Well done. Very instructional mate. Thank you.
On the 48019 pack it says to not apply lube on the outer shell surface but only on the flange face and the internal bore? I'm confused.
Hi sfk555!
Thanks for being part of my Holden story!
You are absolutely right. The pack, or rather instructions, say : apply the lubricant on internal surface.
But, no one knows what is the condition of rods and housing in your vehicle. Is it corroded or detoriated in any possible way? Do not forget that VY, VZ, VX are the cars with 10 years or so behind them. I'd say, most importantly, do not forget to lubricate inside! External lubrication is my preventative maintenance measure rather than performance issue. Every car has an individual history and the owner always makes a final desicion.
Best regards!
Great job dad!!!!!
Just found you make more videos 👌
Thanks mate, been a great help and saved me a lot of money
I had to put small washers in first or it would hav been to loose. I had to re use the old ones they didnt come in my kit.
Great video mate,easy to follow.
Thank you!
Top video mate. Very simple and informative.
Nice bloke , 👍
thanks for you
it's was easy to learn from you AAA
Thanks again
Excellent Thank You So Much 😊
Uhhhg I need to replace these on my GTO but I have boost pipes to remove because they are right in the way.
That was awesome mate thanks
Hey mate,I watched your uploud and did the job,great result,thanks for the refresher.
after i installed nolathane bushes in radius rod i took it for a wheel alignment the guy could not align wheels 1.4 out any ideas out there....??????? baz
Excellent well made video. Thanks mate.
this guy is pretty game using imperial sizes on a 2001 model holden, also its called a caster bar not a radius bar in Australia for everyone who wants to know wtf a radius bar is. good video though
Very nice car Alex :) Your guide is great
Very informative although my control arm bushes keep popping thru to the rear of the control arm. I see you use washers, I have seen vids where they don't use them. Hmmm, maybe my problem.....
Thank you Matthew! The washers are very important, they squeeze bushes, it regulates the rods movement , which in turn reduces side rolling. 😊
Going fine now, was the washers, thx heaps again for your video and help. Much appreciated
Thanks 👍
alex you never specified how tight to do the rear bushing bolt
Hi Alex i see you havent posted for quite awhile but do you have any info on installing the Rear Sub-Frame Mounting bushes on a VZ Nolathane Part # 49145 Thankyou in advance
Awesome video mate!
Very good
good video mate, well explained
thanks Alex great Video
Thank you l love your video sure helps a girl out 😃
top video old mate thank you
You DO NOT put the lubricant on the outside of the bush ,it goes on the crush tube & the outer faces of the bush not on the sectiopn in the control arm
Thanks for posting. Was the rear bushes worn in your case or was it done as a precaution?
Hi Andrew! You are right. The rear bushes were worn off. I would do it even if were not.In my opinion a combination of different materials (rubber and nylon) would not produce a desired result. In addition to that is time - I did it all in one go.Thank you!
'Fantastic and informative. Just wondering what is the difference between Superpro product and the red ones you are using. Does it affect ride quality, is it stiffer etc"?
Yes, it definitely improves handling, especially around corners. A car with it obtains more stability. Think it this way, whats more resistant to the physical torque: rubber or nylon? Answer is obvious:)
Sorry! I am not familiar with Superpro, for this reason I have selected proven technology:)
+Alex Zhigunov Superpro are just as good if not better. Australian made product also. I think some don't like them because they are dark blue and look standard. But I consider that a good thing. I know of a very well respected suspension shop here in Perth that only uses Superpro because of the constant warranty issues they have had with Nolethane in the past. Having said that I have used both brands on five of my Holdens (old classics and Commodore's) and had no problems.
All this talk of bushes an rods being used.. I got an idea..
good video .you just won a subscriber and you get a thumbs up. love your accent what is it .all the best to you
Very good teacher %100
Thank you Gassan!
looks simple enough
Excellent informative video
thumbs up
Is VE commodore the same?
Hello friend. Would you give me permission to repost your videos translating into Portuguese (Brazil)?
Yes,of course! Please help the guys who are car enthusiasts!
great video ...post more videos
awesome video
Thank you great video..
can you post more videos very helpful
Great video - Thanks
You lift the car, correct, take the wheel off, nit necessary
Many Thx man
good on ya mate
Did yours squeek after first installed.
Hi Mic,
Sorry for late response! Yes a little(day or two), as I understand it happens with the shoe pads - they are wearing in. However if it continuous the pads are not alligned properly.
good clip very informative?
good video im gone do my d rubbers soon then the bushes by the way where do u put the jack stands? im about to by 4 of these! never used them b4.
Mr. forte . Thank you for you comment! The best option is to look in your Car manual for points of support ( changing tyre section) there are few. The important thing to remember- the main points of support have to be on the main "beams" of the chassi ( the ones which go all the way from front to rear. Please make sure that support legs are locked with pins and positioned on stable horizontal surface (no angles). Putting a brick or a timber piece in front/back of rear wheels will prevent car from possible rolling when your lift your vehicle by a jack.
ok ok ok ok ok ok
Is that a Dutch accent I hear?
No, something worse😆
That’s impossible Alex. Love you vid. Keep up the good work
muito bom
Great video although I'm baffled as to why you gave us SAE sizes for bolts. You're obviously not American, working on an Australian car that solely uses metric.
Because the tooling at the Holden factory was Imperial/SAE and they just kept running along with it - the cost of making new tooling is too great. Ford Australia did the same thing.
My 2004 VY commodore uses SAE sizes.
The only place that the Commodores use SAE sizes is in the Buick L36 motor (ECOTEC V6) which has a mix of imperial & metric bolts in them still,the body & suspension on the Commodores has been all metric.
That was the last imperial 6 cylinder engine ever fitted into a Holden,the LS1 engine in my VY is all metric & the LY7 (Alloytec) V6 engine in the VZ is all metric as well.
I'm not sure about the Dana M80 IRS diff but the crownwheel bolts inside the solid Borg Warner 78 series units were imperial left hand threaded bolts (5/8 inch bolt heads).
The VL Commodore fitted with the Nissan RB30 engine was the first fully metric Holden (minus the diff) but the 5 litre VL still had the imperial sizing with the 304 CI V8 engine,they went backwards in the VN Commodore when they fitted the LN3 V6 engine (3.8 litre) which was a "bitsa" of a motor with a mixture if imperial & metric bolt sizes inside & on the engine.
The metric sizes were external for such things as the serpentine belt pulley bolts,alternator mounting bolts,etc.
why would you want nolanthane !! its bloody awful
'"bang bang bang"??? WTF does THAT mean?? d'urgh??
jeez mate, give us a break...
That was awesome mate thanks