I have been climbing at the ledges for more that thirty years, Over that time I and all of the old timers have learned to deal with all of the variable conditions. One of the things I have noticed on popular routes is that a combination of hand oil, shoe rubber and chalk have given many holds a greasy, slippery texture. It is something to learn to deal with. A recent large increase in climbers at the ledges has produced a sometimes crowded condition. Also there has some deliberate destruction (chipping) of the fragile sandstone on what were very hard, high quality boulder problems. Final note, please be respectful of the fragile sandstone and fellow climbers. Thanks for an interesting video.
Wow, thirty years, that’s so cool! Glad you enjoyed the video, and thanks for your comments about being respectful towards the rock and other climbers! I agree! 💛
I knew that guy looked familiar , I think I seen him at on the rocks in Elyria , lol he showed me how to do a v3 for the first time and I flashed it ez 😂 gonna see what I can do at whipps ledges with no gear this weekend , looks like it has some fun climbs , thanks for the info 💪🏽🙏🏽
I fell in love with the vibes before I saw in the description that you thought about fleshing it out. Its great as is. Dig the soundtrack. Bouldering is probably less popular than top roping, but only because Grand Ledge has an excellent set of moderate top rope routes. I climb around 5.10 outdoors at Grand Ledge, and there are a variety of top rope routes for me, but the low end of the outdoor boulder problems can still be brutal. There is definitely a sizeable and dedicated boulder community though, with plenty of crushers. Next time your out I recommend starting from the other end. Not only are the boulders more secluded, but I also think the problems are higher quality. The yellow wall has such a variety of holds and potential lines its almost like having a gym spray wall. A lot of the popular problems are also traverses under top rope routes or variations around tough top rope starts. Yeah the sandstone seems to disappear and the tops are always chossy. Also the way the park drains onto the ledges often brings down new dirt and slime, and can make the rock kind of weep. If you were there within a couple days of a big rain it might explain the differences you felt in holds. We still love our local crag and will irrationally defend it from any slander haha.
Thanks Karl! There is climbing in Northern Michigan, there’s about 100 routes listed on MP but we’ve never climbed up there. Also heard there’s a lot of ice climbing up that way!
Looks like a cool little spot! Is it sandstone? Totally normal for boulders to get a bit 'dusty' if they don't get much traffic. I actaully got a nice dirt shower on a topout last night haha 😂
I always click so fast when I see uploads like this from you!
I’ve had a heck of a day, this comment meant a lot 💛
awesome! much love for GL. A great little spot for climbing right here in the LP.
Thanks for watching! 💛🤘
I have been climbing at the ledges for more that thirty years, Over that time I and all of the old timers have learned to deal with all of the variable conditions. One of the things I have noticed on popular routes is that a combination of hand oil, shoe rubber and chalk have given many holds a greasy, slippery texture. It is something to learn to deal with. A recent large increase in climbers at the ledges has produced a sometimes crowded condition. Also there has some deliberate destruction (chipping) of the fragile sandstone on what were very hard, high quality boulder problems.
Final note, please be respectful of the fragile sandstone and fellow climbers. Thanks for an interesting video.
Wow, thirty years, that’s so cool! Glad you enjoyed the video, and thanks for your comments about being respectful towards the rock and other climbers! I agree! 💛
The city (which owns the park) says only top rope is allowed. That might just be a common thing for places to say though, idk
Things may have changed, we haven’t been up there in awhile!
Ty for the great vid ✌️
Of course, thanks for watching! 🤘💛
I knew that guy looked familiar , I think I seen him at on the rocks in Elyria , lol he showed me how to do a v3 for the first time and I flashed it ez 😂 gonna see what I can do at whipps ledges with no gear this weekend , looks like it has some fun climbs , thanks for the info 💪🏽🙏🏽
That was probably him 😂
I fell in love with the vibes before I saw in the description that you thought about fleshing it out. Its great as is. Dig the soundtrack.
Bouldering is probably less popular than top roping, but only because Grand Ledge has an excellent set of moderate top rope routes. I climb around 5.10 outdoors at Grand Ledge, and there are a variety of top rope routes for me, but the low end of the outdoor boulder problems can still be brutal. There is definitely a sizeable and dedicated boulder community though, with plenty of crushers.
Next time your out I recommend starting from the other end. Not only are the boulders more secluded, but I also think the problems are higher quality. The yellow wall has such a variety of holds and potential lines its almost like having a gym spray wall. A lot of the popular problems are also traverses under top rope routes or variations around tough top rope starts. Yeah the sandstone seems to disappear and the tops are always chossy. Also the way the park drains onto the ledges often brings down new dirt and slime, and can make the rock kind of weep. If you were there within a couple days of a big rain it might explain the differences you felt in holds. We still love our local crag and will irrationally defend it from any slander haha.
We will try that next time, thanks for the comment! Love the defense of the local crag!!! 💛🤘
love the video Courtney!
so what does middle / northern Michigan have to offer for climbing?
Thanks Karl! There is climbing in Northern Michigan, there’s about 100 routes listed on MP but we’ve never climbed up there. Also heard there’s a lot of ice climbing up that way!
Looks like a cool little spot! Is it sandstone? Totally normal for boulders to get a bit 'dusty' if they don't get much traffic. I actaully got a nice dirt shower on a topout last night haha 😂
Yeah, it’s sandstone! Haha gotta love a good ol dirt shower