Another consideration is the cover crop was overly trampled and not eaten enough of, leading to your thick thatching. The manure patties also make a difference, but the dung Beattle is a major player, bringing those nutrients down. I hope to see more videos!
Love this channel! Love the experiments and seeing the worms. Please keep documenting these experiments. Wish you could go 2 years out on those three patches. :-)
Love yall channel so far and definitely a new sub. I know our soils are totally different in eastern NC but we use a inline ripper with berm tuckers before seeding or during cover crop growth in the winter to break compaction and let the cover roots fill everything in after. Not something done on every acre but it definitely helps the covers roots get further faster and gives them a head start making structure rather than so much energy going into trying to break that density layer. Maybe worh a trial in the future
Awesome, thank you!! We actually just recently purchased an inline ripper. I wish I had the berm tuckers tho. We used it some in a few places (not the whole field) last fall and I do think I can tell a difference. I’m trying my best to be 100% no-till so I do have some reservation with using it but can definitely see the value in breaking up the hard pan layer. I was wondering if it could be a one time pass (almost like a “reset”) with the ripper if you continue to use cover crops in the future. What are your thoughts?
@@GiffinFarms Definitely agree with your thoughts. 12-15 in depth shattered allowing the cover crops to fill in completely unrestricted. We also have been thinking about trying to deep place humic acid and a sugar blend with that ripping. Thoughts being that it can make a better environment deeper in the soil for cover roots and cash crop roots to thrive and force more nutrients to be available deeper. I know true soil health takes time to develop but really got my thinking cap on trying to jumpstart progress on structure and availability. You have any thoughts on this?
@ncpanther Now that is an idea! I have never thought to consider that. Shouldn’t be too hard to set up a delivery method behind the shank I feel like. Combined with cover crops like you said, that should be a recipe for success. Especially when trying to convert or jump start a farm. It should be cost effective to apply so why not if you’re already going over those acres. I think it’s a brilliant idea!
@@GiffinFarms Definitely think it may be worth trying. Kinda figured just to try it take 3/8 steel tubing crimp the bottom, drill a whole on each side. weld it to the shank with small brackets just to try it out for now. I feel like it will make sense to possibly change soil test deeper and give the roots something more to chase after and explode in. At least for us trying to change that subsoil tilth may permanently keep us from ripping in the future if can't recompact because of the massive root mass being there.
Great content thanks for this.. You're helping a lot of crop farmers make the transition making content like this very cool. Looks like you're going to need to try radishes in your cover crop mix, or something that will break up that hardpan.
Thank you for watching and for the encouragement! We definitely still have a lot to learn. Radishes are awesome! When we plant them in the fall, the frost gets them before they get through the hard pan. Maybe we can find a way to get them planted earlier in the summer!
Hi Guys. Love your videos and the effort you take to make them informative and interesting. Where can we see the results of the soil tests? I do get what you are trying to achieve but, you really should consider getting some oxygen deeper in your soil. One good deep ripping should do the job just before seeding overcrops. There are good rippers that doesn't disturb the topsoil to much. The overcrops roots would get in deeper, faster the soil microbes also need to breathe. Could be interesting to see one rip pass in your current system to see what are gained and lost. Kind Regards
Thank you so much! We don’t have a soil tests results video up yet but hopefully will soon! Funny you mention that because I’ve actually had similar thoughts lately. We bought a CaseIH ripper last fall and used it a little in really compacted areas and a couple test strips through the field. It’ll be interesting to see if I can tell a difference on the yield monitor when we harvest. Going forward I agree that trying some more of that across other farms would be something to consider. I had one person bring up the idea of applying humic acid on the shank of the ripper. Thought that was a neat idea. Any thoughts on that?
@@GiffinFarms again,i am no expert but i would rather try to get calsium in the soil with ripper shanks. To help relax the soil. Then add radish or other covercrops with more agressieve roots to populate the soil deeper. Maybe helping to keep the soil open and deeper for the following year. Humic acid in my opinion would work better used with Nitrogen or other fertilizer. (4% mix) Also we like to use a strip tiller before planting corn to give us the best chance to get seeding done better. (Seed depth,soil contact,soil temp.) Kelp should help roots go deeper in soil. Molasses also works great to get biology active in furrow. Thanks again for the great content,its lovely to watch! Greetings from South Africa.
@@wf1000 very nice! Those are some good ideas! Have you ever tried to “plant” seed while ripping to help it get established right where the shank ran? Thought maybe using some radish or rye to help keep the trench a little more open?
@@GiffinFarms we haven’t tried it but I don’t see why not. Just not corn seed though I wont rip deep,then seed corn in the row. I would rip field with calsium and spread coverseed on top. Our strip-tiller’s shank only go down 8 inches in which we seed corn into. In our current rotation we seed radish on their own and work them in the soil before seeding wheat. It helps with knot-root nematodes. I have a small collection of videos on my channel that shows not much but there is a video of working the radish in the soil.
One point, when trying to improve your land by increasing animal density even though it accelerates the process, just a month after is not going to give you the information you need, Its still a slow process. One reason so many traditional farmers/ranchers abandon these methods is they don't see an improvement in one season, and in many cases see a decline in productivity and quickly abandon it. No one like to take a hit in the pocketbook and less productivity is just that. Although, like any investment it takes time to build the soil, and then you start to see the benefits. These methods add more carbon than before in a short time and that then locks up your nitrogen causing less yields. like in investing in stocks the compounded interest starts to add up over the years, so does good field management as that material starts to add organic matter and microbes. You just have to get over the hump which could take a few years, but that can be an issue that some can't afford.
We will definitely try to do some follow ups. It might take a little extra time for the soil to heal and respond? I hope to try UHD on a larger area next year. I would also like to try it earlier in the spring to see if less mature cover crop can recover better.
The land probaly needs a slow progression to higher densities. Try lower densityies for a few cycles, then as the bioligy develops, you shouldl be able to get good resaults by increasing the density as the land can handle it.
That’s an interesting idea. I also wonder if the soil would have handled it better if the plants were perennials instead of mature annuals? We’ll definitely keep trying it!
Interesting results... A few things to maybe consider: - Earthworm abundance isn't always proportionate to soil health. I, for example, have the highest earthworm activity in my most clayey and compacted areas, while other subterraneous invertebrates dominate in areas where the soil is black, loose and well-aggregated. - What has been your cultivation history on that soil? - I would like to introduce you to the work of the late William Albert Albrecht, agronomist from University of Missouri who died in 1974. He was a pioneer on many issues relating to soil fertility. But his most unrecognised contribution is a concept, which states that soil fertility is highest in regions that are in a climatic equilibrium (Precipitation is equal to potential evapotranspiration throughout most of the year). The theory holds that if rainfall is continuously excessive (such as in the Pacific Northwest), nutrients are lost quickly due to leeching. Whereas, if rainfall is slightly less than potential evapotranspiration, soils retain their nutrients for a longer time, while still supporting dense plant growth. Such conditions exist everywhere there are Chernozems, which are widely considered to be the best soils on the planet. This concept is called "Albrecht's curve" and has tremendous implications on regenerative agriculture and ecology. I hope you can gain something applicable from this.
That is interesting! Thank you for sharing! This farm has been no-tilled and cover cropped since 2015. We certainly have a long way to go, but we have seen some improvement since that time.
Another consideration is the cover crop was overly trampled and not eaten enough of, leading to your thick thatching. The manure patties also make a difference, but the dung Beattle is a major player, bringing those nutrients down.
I hope to see more videos!
Love this channel! Love the experiments and seeing the worms. Please keep documenting these experiments. Wish you could go 2 years out on those three patches. :-)
That would be awesome! We are excited about the worms too! We will share updates as often as we can! Thank you!
Love yall channel so far and definitely a new sub. I know our soils are totally different in eastern NC but we use a inline ripper with berm tuckers before seeding or during cover crop growth in the winter to break compaction and let the cover roots fill everything in after. Not something done on every acre but it definitely helps the covers roots get further faster and gives them a head start making structure rather than so much energy going into trying to break that density layer. Maybe worh a trial in the future
Awesome, thank you!! We actually just recently purchased an inline ripper. I wish I had the berm tuckers tho. We used it some in a few places (not the whole field) last fall and I do think I can tell a difference. I’m trying my best to be 100% no-till so I do have some reservation with using it but can definitely see the value in breaking up the hard pan layer. I was wondering if it could be a one time pass (almost like a “reset”) with the ripper if you continue to use cover crops in the future. What are your thoughts?
@@GiffinFarms Definitely agree with your thoughts. 12-15 in depth shattered allowing the cover crops to fill in completely unrestricted. We also have been thinking about trying to deep place humic acid and a sugar blend with that ripping. Thoughts being that it can make a better environment deeper in the soil for cover roots and cash crop roots to thrive and force more nutrients to be available deeper. I know true soil health takes time to develop but really got my thinking cap on trying to jumpstart progress on structure and availability. You have any thoughts on this?
@ncpanther Now that is an idea! I have never thought to consider that. Shouldn’t be too hard to set up a delivery method behind the shank I feel like. Combined with cover crops like you said, that should be a recipe for success. Especially when trying to convert or jump start a farm. It should be cost effective to apply so why not if you’re already going over those acres. I think it’s a brilliant idea!
@@GiffinFarms Definitely think it may be worth trying. Kinda figured just to try it take 3/8 steel tubing crimp the bottom, drill a whole on each side. weld it to the shank with small brackets just to try it out for now. I feel like it will make sense to possibly change soil test deeper and give the roots something more to chase after and explode in. At least for us trying to change that subsoil tilth may permanently keep us from ripping in the future if can't recompact because of the massive root mass being there.
@@ncpantherI believe that setup should work. I also believe you’re on to something with this idea. I may have to give it a shot myself!
Great content thanks for this.. You're helping a lot of crop farmers make the transition making content like this very cool. Looks like you're going to need to try radishes in your cover crop mix, or something that will break up that hardpan.
Thank you for watching and for the encouragement! We definitely still have a lot to learn. Radishes are awesome! When we plant them in the fall, the frost gets them before they get through the hard pan. Maybe we can find a way to get them planted earlier in the summer!
The presence of the frog shows you the presence of cooler temperatures and higher moisture content
Yes, it has been abnormally wet and cool this year.
Hi Guys. Love your videos and the effort you take to make them informative and interesting.
Where can we see the results of the soil tests?
I do get what you are trying to achieve but, you really should consider getting some oxygen deeper in your soil. One good deep ripping should do the job just before seeding overcrops.
There are good rippers that doesn't disturb the topsoil to much.
The overcrops roots would get in deeper, faster
the soil microbes also need to breathe.
Could be interesting to see one rip pass in your current system to see what are gained and lost.
Kind Regards
Thank you so much! We don’t have a soil tests results video up yet but hopefully will soon!
Funny you mention that because I’ve actually had similar thoughts lately. We bought a CaseIH ripper last fall and used it a little in really compacted areas and a couple test strips through the field. It’ll be interesting to see if I can tell a difference on the yield monitor when we harvest. Going forward I agree that trying some more of that across other farms would be something to consider. I had one person bring up the idea of applying humic acid on the shank of the ripper. Thought that was a neat idea. Any thoughts on that?
@@GiffinFarms again,i am no expert but i would rather try to get calsium in the soil with ripper shanks. To help relax the soil. Then add radish or other covercrops with more agressieve roots to populate the soil deeper. Maybe helping to keep the soil open and deeper for the following year.
Humic acid in my opinion would work better used with Nitrogen or other fertilizer. (4% mix)
Also we like to use a strip tiller before planting corn to give us the best chance to get seeding done better. (Seed depth,soil contact,soil temp.)
Kelp should help roots go deeper in soil.
Molasses also works great to get biology active in furrow.
Thanks again for the great content,its lovely to watch!
Greetings from South Africa.
@@wf1000 very nice! Those are some good ideas! Have you ever tried to “plant” seed while ripping to help it get established right where the shank ran? Thought maybe using some radish or rye to help keep the trench a little more open?
@@GiffinFarms we haven’t tried it but I don’t see why not. Just not corn seed though I wont rip deep,then seed corn in the row. I would rip field with calsium and spread coverseed on top.
Our strip-tiller’s shank only go down 8 inches in which we seed corn into.
In our current rotation we seed radish on their own and work them in the soil before seeding wheat. It helps with knot-root nematodes.
I have a small collection of videos on my channel that shows not much but there is a video of working the radish in the soil.
One point, when trying to improve your land by increasing animal density even though it accelerates the process, just a month after is not going to give you the information you need, Its still a slow process. One reason so many traditional farmers/ranchers abandon these methods is they don't see an improvement in one season, and in many cases see a decline in productivity and quickly abandon it. No one like to take a hit in the pocketbook and less productivity is just that. Although, like any investment it takes time to build the soil, and then you start to see the benefits. These methods add more carbon than before in a short time and that then locks up your nitrogen causing less yields. like in investing in stocks the compounded interest starts to add up over the years, so does good field management as that material starts to add organic matter and microbes. You just have to get over the hump which could take a few years, but that can be an issue that some can't afford.
I'd love to see a follow on the millions pounds per acre spot next year, corn yield there and adjacent, and soil test.
We will definitely try to do some follow ups. It might take a little extra time for the soil to heal and respond? I hope to try UHD on a larger area next year. I would also like to try it earlier in the spring to see if less mature cover crop can recover better.
Have you posted a video on the results of the soil test?
We haven’t yet, but we are working toward it. Thank you for following up!
The land probaly needs a slow progression to higher densities. Try lower densityies for a few cycles, then as the bioligy develops, you shouldl be able to get good resaults by increasing the density as the land can handle it.
That’s an interesting idea. I also wonder if the soil would have handled it better if the plants were perennials instead of mature annuals? We’ll definitely keep trying it!
Interesting results...
A few things to maybe consider:
- Earthworm abundance isn't always proportionate to soil health. I, for example, have the highest earthworm activity in my most clayey and compacted areas, while other subterraneous invertebrates dominate in areas where the soil is black, loose and well-aggregated.
- What has been your cultivation history on that soil?
- I would like to introduce you to the work of the late William Albert Albrecht, agronomist from University of Missouri who died in 1974. He was a pioneer on many issues relating to soil fertility. But his most unrecognised contribution is a concept, which states that soil fertility is highest in regions that are in a climatic equilibrium (Precipitation is equal to potential evapotranspiration throughout most of the year). The theory holds that if rainfall is continuously excessive (such as in the Pacific Northwest), nutrients are lost quickly due to leeching. Whereas, if rainfall is slightly less than potential evapotranspiration, soils retain their nutrients for a longer time, while still supporting dense plant growth. Such conditions exist everywhere there are Chernozems, which are widely considered to be the best soils on the planet.
This concept is called "Albrecht's curve" and has tremendous implications on regenerative agriculture and ecology. I hope you can gain something applicable from this.
That is interesting! Thank you for sharing! This farm has been no-tilled and cover cropped since 2015. We certainly have a long way to go, but we have seen some improvement since that time.