I think your work here is very effective in increasing the realism of the model! Your mentality on the underbody of making something that is a representation rather than 100% accurate is something I share when building armour (tank) models. Often I have to scratchbuild some interior detail if you want to leave crew hatches open, and while I could spend countless hours on it making a perfect replica....you can barely see it in end! So I find that making detail that looks to the eye like what it should in real life is all that's needed, since low-visibility areas of the model aren't a focal point. So long as they look as detailed as the rest of the model, then it doesn't detract from the result. I have been going back and adding the air hoses to some of my equipment lately. I need to add coupler lift bars as well, and you make it look much easier than I thought it would be! This is something I will try soon :) Thank you!
Barney Gramling gave me a good hint for brake detail placement. The cylinder pushes, everything else, all the rods and levers pull. Tichy’s brake detail kit includes a diagram of the general layout used for all US fright cars. With just that, you will find that making the brake detail spot on is not any harder then what you have done.
That's some great work. I use a similar tech also. Kitbashed some NS Gunderson 2791 gondola's #'s 210200-210500 used for steel coil service. HighBall Graphics offers the horse head decals too. The modified car is a Walther's Proto 53' Thrall Gondola.
Nice video as always love your attention to detail and can’t wait to see an update on your layout hopefully soon Also where do you buy your styrene and wire and weathering powders I can’t ever seem to find it at my hobby shop or online
Relatively new subscriber here and I’m really enjoying your videos. I was wondering if you could refer me to a video of the distressed styrene panel technique you mentioned. Also, where do the ends of the coupler lift bars get fastened to? They appear to just end below the couplers. When you add the channel to the top of the car, could you alternatively sand the top down flat (sandpaper on glass) and then add the channel so as not to add too much height? Sorry for all the questions. Love the videos!
This is a techique I came up, rubbing and poking styrene adding to the sides of different cars that I'm doing an article for a magazine, hopefully soon
Dan great videos but you skipped the part of the distressed panel replacement with the styrene sheets. So many question on how you did that. Do you cut the original off then replace with styrene or just glue over the car sides? Wish you had video of that but thanks for this one.
This is a techique I came up, rubbing and poking styrene adding to the sides of different cars that I'm doing an article for a magazine, hopefully soon
Cut pieces of thin styrene to size -- as with everything, make them slightly too big, then trim. Put each panel on a couplefew thicknesses of paper towel and rub the butt end of a craft knife, a paint brush or similar on the middle of the panel to bulge it into the paper towel. Then use the back of a craft knift blade or similar to add the scratches. Glue all the panels to the car.
@DansRailroad2011 Sure enjoy it if you would do the denting and swayback on an "Arrowhead HO ARR-1219-1 Greenville Steel Car Company 2494 Gondola 'Railgon' Denver & Rio Grande Western 'Ex Railgon' with Coil Steel Cradle DRGW #330019 Lombard Hobbies Exclusive"
Great tutorial on doing underbody brake detailing. Thank you. Some feedback: the cylinder with the pointy end is not a tank, it is the brake actuating cylinder. But I had a hard time listening because there was W A Y too much use of the word "basically." Drives me nuts.
I think your work here is very effective in increasing the realism of the model! Your mentality on the underbody of making something that is a representation rather than 100% accurate is something I share when building armour (tank) models. Often I have to scratchbuild some interior detail if you want to leave crew hatches open, and while I could spend countless hours on it making a perfect replica....you can barely see it in end! So I find that making detail that looks to the eye like what it should in real life is all that's needed, since low-visibility areas of the model aren't a focal point. So long as they look as detailed as the rest of the model, then it doesn't detract from the result.
I have been going back and adding the air hoses to some of my equipment lately. I need to add coupler lift bars as well, and you make it look much easier than I thought it would be! This is something I will try soon :) Thank you!
Excellent video, thank you for sharing your talents! It provides some great inspiration to upgrade some old RailGons my railroad acquired recently.
Phenomenal tutorial! * subscribed *
Outstanding workmanship:)
Barney Gramling gave me a good hint for brake detail placement.
The cylinder pushes, everything else, all the rods and levers pull.
Tichy’s brake detail kit includes a diagram of the general layout used for all US fright cars.
With just that, you will find that making the brake detail spot on is not any harder then what you have done.
That's some great work. I use a similar tech also. Kitbashed some NS Gunderson 2791 gondola's #'s 210200-210500 used for steel coil service. HighBall Graphics offers the horse head decals too. The modified car is a Walther's Proto 53' Thrall Gondola.
Very nice looking gondola, recently I purchased one and would like to add some parts such as the uncoupling lever, fra stripes!
Nice video as always love your attention to detail and can’t wait to see an update on your layout hopefully soon Also where do you buy your styrene and wire and weathering powders I can’t ever seem to find it at my hobby shop or online
Excellent detail as always 👍
How’d you make the cut lever bracket at 16:17?
My main man Dan ... I love your vids ... as always
Relatively new subscriber here and I’m really enjoying your videos. I was wondering if you could refer me to a video of the distressed styrene panel technique you mentioned. Also, where do the ends of the coupler lift bars get fastened to? They appear to just end below the couplers. When you add the channel to the top of the car, could you alternatively sand the top down flat (sandpaper on glass) and then add the channel so as not to add too much height? Sorry for all the questions. Love the videos!
This is a techique I came up, rubbing and poking styrene adding to the sides of different cars that I'm doing an article for a magazine, hopefully soon
New book out , Scenic & Weathering Techniques, RMC, White River Productions
Wish you had shown how you cut the brake details off without damaging the underside.
No cutting was done at all. The parts were simply removed.
Dan great videos but you skipped the part of the distressed panel replacement with the styrene sheets. So many question on how you did that. Do you cut the original off then replace with styrene or just glue over the car sides? Wish you had video of that but thanks for this one.
When he moves the car around you can see the sides are still intact. The Evergreen sheet panels are just and overlaid.
looks good
Well done. Thx...
could you do a tutorial on how to make the busted pannels?
This is a techique I came up, rubbing and poking styrene adding to the sides of different cars that I'm doing an article for a magazine, hopefully soon
Cut pieces of thin styrene to size -- as with everything, make them slightly too big, then trim. Put each panel on a couplefew thicknesses of paper towel and rub the butt end of a craft knife, a paint brush or similar on the middle of the panel to bulge it into the paper towel. Then use the back of a craft knift blade or similar to add the scratches. Glue all the panels to the car.
New Book out, Scenic & Weathering Techniques, RMC, White River Production
@DansRailroad2011 Sure enjoy it if you would do the denting and swayback on an "Arrowhead HO ARR-1219-1 Greenville Steel Car Company 2494 Gondola 'Railgon' Denver & Rio Grande Western 'Ex Railgon' with Coil Steel Cradle DRGW #330019 Lombard Hobbies Exclusive"
Great tutorial on doing underbody brake detailing. Thank you. Some feedback: the cylinder with the pointy end is not a tank, it is the brake actuating cylinder. But I had a hard time listening because there was W A Y too much use of the word "basically." Drives me nuts.
Dan..how can I contact you? If I want some work done how can I contact you?
Thats the stuff right there....... shiny is boring