When you look at these cars , you truly realise a golden age has passed , we are so fortunate to have you Adam, your Classic Car garage reminds us how special these cars were . Compare these to today’s “white Goods” cars.🇺🇸🇬🇧👍
Reminds me of a Reader's Digest article I read as a kid, where the author stated the clock in her Chevy didn't work, but the car did, as opposed to her dad's Ford where the clocked worked but the car didn't.
That clock has been Quartz modified. It is a direct electric quartz controlled motor kit instead of the factory Borg Warner "point flyback" style. That is the ONLY was these older clocks would still be working!
Got to chuckle when you mentioned having to hold the shift lever up to get them to crank. Those of us that know that trick are starting to show our age!! Another little trick from the past.
This was Steve McGarrett's main ride from '68 to '75-'76. Beautiful car that screams Nixon-era America. I had the Lesney Matchbox Superfast No. 59 FIRE CHIEF four door diecast toy vehicle when I was young. My favorite though was the four door Ford Galaxie FIRE CHIEF. I miss romping around the back seat of one of these boats as a kid.
Old car heaters until the late 90s gave you the toaster oven treatment, gotta love it, from my 71 Continental, 79 New Yorker, and the 90 deville, all give me enough heat to drive me out of the car
Reuse the current cable sheild by ac gluing the old end to the cable and then slip some heat shrink tubing over the joint and shrinking it down. Or Cut the end wire down, discard the broken sheild end and twist a new cable end. Or Reuse the end shield and contact cement to the cable and then contact cement a plastic or rubber "band aid" the joint.
The Porsche 928 works in a similar fashion. You have the control head in the dash, and this just controls vacuum. Several vacuum servos (That fail, and require the dash to be removed....) are under the head. But the heater valve is up against the firewall, and a solenoid sends vacuum to this valve to open it. The computer cycles the valve open and closed in an attempt to make the sensed temperature equal the demanded temperature and it actually works very well. I drove my 928S2 for 19 years in Flori-Duh, and used the heat oh....About 5 times. But hey, it worked- Great video!
Although I only have an '87 Aerocoupe, it has already been put away for the winter. Last drive on Halloween I checked the AC, heat and other functions to make sure they all worked before I filled her up with zero ethanol and parked her for the long winter nap. There is always something to do or fix once a vehicle passes 30 years old. I consider it part of the 'fun of ownership' experience.
Beautiful cars, I was born in December of 1958. My dad was a ford guy, so we always had ford station wagons. First one I can barely remember was a 1957 ford wagon, the he bought a 1963 wagon then a 66,68, and then he bought a 1971 country squire wagon with wood grain panels on the side, 1st car we had with air conditioning and electric windows! Believe it or not he traded it in 1975 for a ford maverick. Ugly orange tinny car. I started working at a local Texaco gas station/ repair shop in 1973 and eventually worked in the heavy truck/bus business as a technician for 40+ years and worked on many of these cars/trucks over the years. Love your channel, thanks for sharing your videos.
Beautiful old car. There is a lot of things I like about old cars, but I’d have to say, the number 1 thing that I miss the most, is the well made comfortable seats.
I have my grandmother's 1968 Mercury Monterey. It doesn't have the amenities of a Park Lane but I still love driving it occasionally. It has a 390 and folks are astounded by the power.
Man, what a flashback to my high school years in the early 80's. I had a '68 Mercury Montclair with that same 428 in it. I sure wish I still had it today.
Oh man, I love this car! Especially the triple black. It makes me think of the car my mom’s boss drove back then - a ‘68 Montego MX Brougham 4-door. I find it interesting that the automatic headlight dimming sensor Ford used looks similar to GM’s Autronic Eye sensor. Autronic Eye was GM’s first name for auto dimming, before they changed it to Guide-Matic, with the slim rocket-shaped sensor mounted on the dash. By 1968, GM had moved the sensor behind the grille, which was okay except that owners had to remember to keep it clean. I would try pulling back the sleeve and clamping it, and see if that works. You could also make a little L-shaped bracket with a u-bend on one leg, clamp the remaining sleeve in that, drill a hole in the other leg, and put the existing clamp screw through that. As for me, I prefer a blend door for mixing hot and cold air to trying to vary the coolant flow through a heater valve.
Adam, I've been dealing with the same cable on my 68 Park Lane Brougham. In my case, the wire inside the sheath was broken in the middle, where it had rusted completely apart. I looked and looked for a replacement cable and finally found one with the same part number C8AZ-18552, but when it showed up it was half as long as this cable - so be aware when you order! I had to cut my cable to extract a tiny piece of the wire that had firmly lodged into the sheath, and was able to repair the sheath by using marine grade shrink tubing (has an adhesive that melts inside, in addition to the tubing shrinking). If you can fit a piece of this marine grade heat shrink tubing past the coiled end of the cable that attaches to the relay/switch, that might do the job for you of holding those two pieces together. Fortunately your internal wire is intact; I made a new one out of some .054" stainless wire.
What a nice car! Years ago I had a 1967 mercury park lane. It had the 410 v8 4- barrel carb. That engine was so smooth, you could hardly hear it run. The exterior color was a hunter green color with cloth beige interior, like the interior in your 68
The heater valve went out on mine and went through the same pain that you did. Mine is a southern car, so I am just bypassing the heater core for now. I initially thought I had a bad head gasket because of how much coolant I was losing!
I thought it was Steve McGarrett's car until I saw the tan interior. When I was little my dad had the 66 with the breezeway window. I remember laying up on the package tray to look out.
Adam your car collection is absolutely stunning!! Love the interior on this car! This was a really cool video on how the heating system works and that automatic headlight dimmer was sooooo cool for that time period!!
My dad had a 1968 Montclair. 390 4V. Wasn't loaded but did have the roll down back window breezeway and rear defogger. Best memories of going on vacations in that car.
I recall rather drooling over a black 68 Park Lane much like that, not as optioned, approx 7 years old, not new enough to even be on the far back row of the small Iowa town Ford dealer, but they had just outside of town a large fenced in lot that practically looked like a junk yard. Open usually during business hours, but nobody around, tall grass and weeds. My cousin and I would slide through and see what’s there. Dream dreams of broke kids. Apparently they weren’t very motivated to sell from there, someone mentioned it was their assets in hock to the bank. Merc’s such a nice, smooth quiet ride, and the doors back then with that perfect “thunk” when closed. Mopar too easy to slam, just needed a light touch, and GM needed slammed. Cousin and I really had a hard time believing that junk looking lot also had a 65 Impala SS all together with buckets and the less common optional gauge package just ahead of the auto shifter in the console. I would guess now their wonderful 327 4 bbl, maybe camel bump heads 300 hp, four bolt mains and turbo 400 ?? Not guaranteed details half a century later. But we did lust on those two cars wasting away in that countryside “junk” lot.
The 68 Ford and Mercury four door hardtops have almost the same roof profile as the formal roof two door hardtops with the added convenience of rear doors.
My Dad had the SkyBlue 64 Parklane with the moving back glass as I kid I was facinated by stuff like that. My Mom totalled it. It got replaced by a '68 TBird for Dad and a Gold '70 4 door Automatic Datsun 510 for my Mom. Memories...
Your first thought was mine as well. You might be able to get the metal flange re-crimped onto the sleeve for the cable (I believe that's how it's supposed to work by looking at it). I'd love to see under the hood of the reference car to confirm. Regardless - stunning car, thank you as always for sharing. ~ Chuck
These are cars from a time where cars looked like cars. On a side note, I notice you have a lot of Fords, Lincoln's and Mercury's. Quinn Martin used to feature plenty of these cars in his shows, old school like Cannon, Barnaby Jones, and Streets of San Francisco, you would enjoy these shows deeply.
It's nice that you have another 1968 Ford that you can use as a reference. Alec over @technology connections refers to that solution as "through the magic of buying two" :)
Electrical tape the broken pieces together tightly. Then also restrain the outside of the cable in places to prevent flex or limit it as much as possible. Lube the cable if possible and the fix will work good enough for winter... maybe.
Unhook the cable, pull the outer sheathing over the end of the actual metal cable, use J.B. Weld to reattach the piece of broken off sheath, then use a piece of heat shrink tubing to cover the "joint area" of sheath. I repaired a cable on my 69 Lemans this way a few years ago and is still holding together. If the passage hole in the sheath gets "clogged" with J.B. Weld when "gluing them together" and the metal cable won't pass thru, just carefully use a proper size drill bit to reopen the hole. This happened to me, but it only took 2 minutes with a drill to open the hole back up, then the cable slid back thru, and I was able to reconnect it. I'd also try and lube it extra good! I like PB blaster for stuff like this over a spray grease or silicone spray because when the grease or silicone sprays fully dries, they usually leave a hard residue behind that will actually cause the cable to completely seize inside the cable sheathing.
Hack job. Make a new retaining sleeve. It could be done with a roll pin, a sleeve from a sleeve anchor, whatever you can attach to cable sleeve, how, your choice, the other end under clamp. Tighten to crush or if it needs to travel just enough to hold the replacement retaining sleeve.
@@RareClassicCars Adam you might get a cable lube tool. There usually sold at most motorcycle shops and of course online along with cable lube which is graphite based. It forces the lube down through the cable housing. They work pretty slick.
I had a '76 Cordoba that also had a broken cable for the heat control. Every fall for the 3 years I had it, I would have to move the rocker under the hood from cool to heat, then back again in the spring.
Hey Adam. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the vacuum operated coolant valve is an "On/Off" affair. When moving the slider to full cold, it triggers that vacuum switch to shut the valve. Also, pretty sure that the temp regulation is done with a blend door. Try hooking a vacuum gauge to the hose at the valve and see what triggers it. I've also seen FoMoCo trigger that cutoff valve by selecting Max A/C as well. Let me know what you find ... it's been a while since working on these!
I’m not familiar with car HVAC of this vintage, but was a little surprised to hear how Adam described it. He could be right, though. If he’s right, the thing on the firewall ought to be a thermostat that senses the heater-core temperature and cycles the coolant on/off. My ‘85 Chrysler Laser had a vacuum-operated coolant valve, but its purpose was to shut the coolant off when it was on Max A/C (i.e. recirculated air). I think its Max A/C was a separate detent at the cold end of the temperature slider.
@@kc9scott On Chrysler products around this vintage (1960's - 70's) with A/C, they often had a manual temp control cable that ran to a valve underhood. It would vary the flow through the valve instead of using a "blend door."
Don't they put the power antenna in the trunk because the motor has more room, making for an easier installation? I love the clean, sharp look of this year compared to the '69 after it. I learn so much watching this channel; I don't see any other channel with straight information like this.
The ‘65 Pontiac Bonneville apparently also used front for manual antenna, rear for power antenna. Adam’s Bonneville has manual antenna in front, and my uncle’s Bonneville had power antenna in the back.
Your solution to just move the cable past the broken piece should work for awhile. Just try to remove the broken piece so it doesn't cause any binding issues. Also you can spray some lubricant into the tube so the cable moves freely. I believe they make a lubricant specifically for cables.
I just replaced a cable on my mother's 65 Mustang 3 days ago. The tips of my fingers are all chewed up and sore from messing with that cable under the dash! What a pain in the @$$! With that being said, I think I see a fix for your sleeve that will allow you to keep it positioned in the right place under that tab and screw. Loosen the screw and remove tab which will release cable under hood. Use a very small amount of super glue to hold the two pieces of the sleeve together (not too much... we dont want to freeze the cable itself in place). Once that is dried, get some jb weld mixed up and apply a thin layer to the sleeve all the way around it. Once that cures, apply a second coat around the first. Make the second coat a thicker... but not so thick that the sleeve won't fit well under the retainer tab when you put it back together. After it's cured for at least a full day, then reinstall the cable sleeve under the tab in the same position as before. Your control travel on the dash should be as it was originally. Hope that helps... or at least gives you an idea to improve on for some amount of success!
My inner MacGyver would bind the sheathing in place using CA glue and activator and moving the cable while it affixes to prevent sticking. Then reinforcing the break with manipulated aluminum bandage clips fitted across the break and pressed in around the cylindrical sheath to hold the fractured part together. Layer of duct tape to encapsulate the clips in place. And electrical heat shrink to make everything I just did a little more weatherproof.
I would wrap the cable once with electrical tape at the break, then add a sleeve of heat shrink tube. After you heat shrink it, you should have a solid cable again. I know you would still have to disconnect the cable on the broken end to slip on the heat shrink, but it seems easier than replacing the cable.
I think I would cut a small piece of steel and bolt it to the bracket where the clamp is, bend it a little so the cable ferrule fits into it, and bolt the clamp down a little further over on the new piece. Another option would be to pull the cable off the lever and try to bend the end of it a little more to make the cable shorter.
Simple fix: Encapsulate the broken heater control cable with a slightly larger (hollow) tube over the broken area. Attach the larger "tube" over the broken cable with careful glueing. A construction adhesive like Loctite PL3X would work great for this. Just make sure you don't glue the cable to the tube/sleeve it slides through.
It seems like you could lengthen the wire that controls the heat by crimping a new piece of wire as long as the crimp doesn't impede the travel of the existing wire.
Slide a piece of heavy wall heat shrink tubing over the broken part of the cable, it should easily be strong enough to hold it together and make the cable usable.
Oh how much I prefer the slider bars that actuate a cable to open and close various deflectors. And YES, the vacuum operated valve that controls the flow to the heater core is the best way to control the heat. These modern cars that need computers, relays and cheapo nylon gears that will ALL eventually break sucks and is very difficult to access for replacement.
Similar to the Hawaii '5-0' Park Lane. That interior was black. Dad owned an Anniversary Silver '64 Park Lane hardtop. Lots quite a few hats from that rear window.
When you look at these cars , you truly realise a golden age has passed , we are so fortunate to have you Adam, your Classic Car garage reminds us how special these cars were . Compare these to today’s “white Goods” cars.🇺🇸🇬🇧👍
These cars embody the spirit of "deluxe". We need to get back to deluxeitude as part of making America great again.
The deference now. Is. Thay. Give the public the. Car thay think. Thay. Won't not the car thay really whant ie these classics
i want a 1958 plymouth fury
The days of cheap gasoline…
I would find working on such a car to be difficult to keep from damaging something cosmetic.
The clock is working in this Mercury!! You gotta love Ford products!!
Yep. The clock in my '69 GTO is only good twice a day.
@@RedBud315 that's perfect!
Reminds me of a Reader's Digest article I read as a kid, where the author stated the clock in her Chevy didn't work, but the car did, as opposed to her dad's Ford where the clocked worked but the car didn't.
That clock has been Quartz modified. It is a direct electric quartz controlled motor kit instead of the factory Borg Warner "point flyback" style. That is the ONLY was these older clocks would still be working!
Beautiful car. Now that’s a car. 120 mph and all the luxury features.
real woodgrain😅
The cars you have Adam are truly magnificent. You must set up a museum for these machines to save them for all time.
Got to chuckle when you mentioned having to hold the shift lever up to get them to crank. Those of us that know that trick are starting to show our age!! Another little trick from the past.
I love that C6 transmission. The original continuously variable transmission by effect of how smooth and responsive it was. Bullet proof, too.
Thise go out.
Its color makes it look menacing... but in a good way! Love it!
My congratulations Adam is always interesting to see someone take care of a Mercury.
Ah, the joys of old car ownership! I'm glad you figured out a decent (and hopefully temporary) solution until you can find a new cable.
This was Steve McGarrett's main ride from '68 to '75-'76.
Beautiful car that screams Nixon-era America.
I had the Lesney Matchbox Superfast No. 59 FIRE CHIEF four door diecast toy vehicle when I was young. My favorite though was the four door Ford Galaxie FIRE CHIEF. I miss romping around the back seat of one of these boats as a kid.
Wow that car has a presence!
Steve McGarrett - book em Danno
I loved Mercurys from this era, later 60s. What a beautiful, roomy, and powerful car.
Old car heaters until the late 90s gave you the toaster oven treatment, gotta love it, from my 71 Continental, 79 New Yorker, and the 90 deville, all give me enough heat to drive me out of the car
Yeah… I’ve been noticing more and more with my late model cars that heaters are most definitely not what they used to be.
Reuse the current cable sheild by ac gluing the old end to the cable and then slip some heat shrink tubing over the joint and shrinking it down.
Or
Cut the end wire down, discard the broken sheild end and twist a new cable end.
Or
Reuse the end shield and contact cement to the cable and then contact cement a plastic or rubber "band aid" the joint.
Extend the bracket to hold the cable housing at the point where the housing now stands using a similar piece for steel and fasteners.
An absolutely beautiful car!
The Porsche 928 works in a similar fashion. You have the control head in the dash, and this just controls vacuum. Several vacuum servos (That fail, and require the dash to be removed....) are under the head. But the heater valve is up against the firewall, and a solenoid sends vacuum to this valve to open it. The computer cycles the valve open and closed in an attempt to make the sensed temperature equal the demanded temperature and it actually works very well.
I drove my 928S2 for 19 years in Flori-Duh, and used the heat oh....About 5 times. But hey, it worked-
Great video!
Although I only have an '87 Aerocoupe, it has already been put away for the winter. Last drive on Halloween I checked the AC, heat and other functions to make sure they all worked before I filled her up with zero ethanol and parked her for the long winter nap. There is always something to do or fix once a vehicle passes 30 years old. I consider it part of the 'fun of ownership' experience.
Beautiful cars, I was born in December of 1958. My dad was a ford guy, so we always had ford station wagons. First one I can barely remember was a 1957 ford wagon, the he bought a 1963 wagon then a 66,68, and then he bought a 1971 country squire wagon with wood grain panels on the side, 1st car we had with air conditioning and electric windows! Believe it or not he traded it in 1975 for a ford maverick. Ugly orange tinny car. I started working at a local Texaco gas station/ repair shop in 1973 and eventually worked in the heavy truck/bus business as a technician for 40+ years and worked on many of these cars/trucks over the years. Love your channel, thanks for sharing your videos.
I absolutely love that car! That thing must be a rocket with a 428 in it
Id love to drive one of those 428’s
Beautiful old car. There is a lot of things I like about old cars, but I’d have to say, the number 1 thing that I miss the most, is the well made comfortable seats.
I have my grandmother's 1968 Mercury Monterey. It doesn't have the amenities of a Park Lane but I still love driving it occasionally. It has a 390 and folks are astounded by the power.
Beautiful car. I would love to drive cars like this. I bet that 428 is a torque monster.
Of course we've seen it this is the fourth video. Beautiful car and love the options
Book em Danno
Man, what a flashback to my high school years in the early 80's. I had a '68 Mercury Montclair with that same 428 in it. I sure wish I still had it today.
Oh man, I love this car! Especially the triple black. It makes me think of the car my mom’s boss drove back then - a ‘68 Montego MX Brougham 4-door. I find it interesting that the automatic headlight dimming sensor Ford used looks similar to GM’s Autronic Eye sensor. Autronic Eye was GM’s first name for auto dimming, before they changed it to Guide-Matic, with the slim rocket-shaped sensor mounted on the dash. By 1968, GM had moved the sensor behind the grille, which was okay except that owners had to remember to keep it clean.
I would try pulling back the sleeve and clamping it, and see if that works. You could also make a little L-shaped bracket with a u-bend on one leg, clamp the remaining sleeve in that, drill a hole in the other leg, and put the existing clamp screw through that.
As for me, I prefer a blend door for mixing hot and cold air to trying to vary the coolant flow through a heater valve.
I absolutely love that speedometer in that car
What a sleek, black beauty!
Adam, I've been dealing with the same cable on my 68 Park Lane Brougham. In my case, the wire inside the sheath was broken in the middle, where it had rusted completely apart. I looked and looked for a replacement cable and finally found one with the same part number C8AZ-18552, but when it showed up it was half as long as this cable - so be aware when you order! I had to cut my cable to extract a tiny piece of the wire that had firmly lodged into the sheath, and was able to repair the sheath by using marine grade shrink tubing (has an adhesive that melts inside, in addition to the tubing shrinking). If you can fit a piece of this marine grade heat shrink tubing past the coiled end of the cable that attaches to the relay/switch, that might do the job for you of holding those two pieces together. Fortunately your internal wire is intact; I made a new one out of some .054" stainless wire.
What a nice car! Years ago I had a 1967 mercury park lane. It had the 410 v8 4- barrel carb. That engine was so smooth, you could hardly hear it run. The exterior color was a hunter green color with cloth beige interior, like the interior in your 68
Mint , the seats look like a dream of comfort , the entire shape is sexy , and downright classy
my my what a beautiful car, and collection!
The heater valve went out on mine and went through the same pain that you did. Mine is a southern car, so I am just bypassing the heater core for now. I initially thought I had a bad head gasket because of how much coolant I was losing!
I thought it was Steve McGarrett's car until I saw the tan interior. When I was little my dad had the 66 with the breezeway window. I remember laying up on the package tray to look out.
40's and windy as heck here in RI. Nice that we can work on our old cars and improvise..nice car ..428. That thing must move
Gorgeous ride!
My dream car. Perfect colors. I think the 1968 and 1973 L/M sedans were the best that Detroit ever produced.
Adam your car collection is absolutely stunning!! Love the interior on this car! This was a really cool video on how the heating system works and that automatic headlight dimmer was sooooo cool for that time period!!
Love the Mercury head above the radio!
Love the Speedo in these mid 60's Mercs.
My dad had a 1968 Montclair. 390 4V. Wasn't loaded but did have the roll down back window breezeway and rear defogger. Best memories of going on vacations in that car.
Gr8 Stuff, Adam. Yep, necessary to have the heater working in cold climes...Keep warm, with Cheers fm Damo.🥵😉😀👏
Unbelievable, what a great car. With everything. You gotta enjoy this !
Great vid, love the 68
Thanks for sharing your knowledge again Adam. It’s cool seeing car collectors actually doing their own fixing for the most part.
I recall rather drooling over a black 68 Park Lane much like that, not as optioned, approx 7 years old, not new enough to even be on the far back row of the small Iowa town Ford dealer, but they had just outside of town a large fenced in lot that practically looked like a junk yard. Open usually during business hours, but nobody around, tall grass and weeds. My cousin and I would slide through and see what’s there. Dream dreams of broke kids. Apparently they weren’t very motivated to sell from there, someone mentioned it was their assets in hock to the bank. Merc’s such a nice, smooth quiet ride, and the doors back then with that perfect “thunk” when closed. Mopar too easy to slam, just needed a light touch, and GM needed slammed. Cousin and I really had a hard time believing that junk looking lot also had a 65 Impala SS all together with buckets and the less common optional gauge package just ahead of the auto shifter in the console. I would guess now their wonderful 327 4 bbl, maybe camel bump heads 300 hp, four bolt mains and turbo 400 ?? Not guaranteed details half a century later. But we did lust on those two cars wasting away in that countryside “junk” lot.
I can’t keep up with all the videos! Quality content daily…. keep it coming sir 😎
Thank you Adam. I trust and know you will get to enjoy your Mercury Park Lane.
The “McGarrett” mobile from Hawaii Five O. So cool 😎
That car is stunning, exactly how it sits there. Even though it’s a sedan. Interior and exterior, it’s perfect
Actually, it is a hard top.
You’re right Dan, I mean a 4 door
The 68 Ford and Mercury four door hardtops have almost the same roof profile as the formal roof two door hardtops with the added convenience of rear doors.
i really like the 68 Mercury design. I had a 68 Monterey convertible and would love to have another one.
My Dad had the SkyBlue 64 Parklane with the moving back glass as I kid I was facinated by stuff like that. My Mom totalled it. It got replaced by a '68 TBird for Dad and a Gold '70 4 door Automatic Datsun 510 for my Mom. Memories...
Nice big car
Love the seat upholstery. As a former Ford guy, and current Buick and Cadillac guy, I would not mind having a Merc like that.
great instructional video with explanations Mr. Wade. Noticed your watch tan line ;);)
Always liked the mid-60s Park Lanes.
Your first thought was mine as well. You might be able to get the metal flange re-crimped onto the sleeve for the cable (I believe that's how it's supposed to work by looking at it). I'd love to see under the hood of the reference car to confirm. Regardless - stunning car, thank you as always for sharing. ~ Chuck
I am not a huge Ford guy but I will say that is a great looking car.
Cool car!
I Had a 1964 Park Lane with the 390 super marauder engine and rear breezeway window.
Very nice Mercury! Always enjoy your channel.
That car is like a loaded to the hilt. Just beautiful Adam!!!~
Like this car on Hawaii Five-O 👻💙🙃❣️ Thank you for showing this car!
Coral Gables 🌴🇺🇸 Parents had a convertible back in the day. Beautiful property also. 👌 🏄
Adam, the cable and heater control valve are both C8AZ full-size Ford part numbers.
Park Lane oh yes.❤❤❤
These are cars from a time where cars looked like cars. On a side note, I notice you have a lot of Fords, Lincoln's and Mercury's. Quinn Martin used to feature plenty of these cars in his shows, old school like Cannon, Barnaby Jones, and Streets of San Francisco, you would enjoy these shows deeply.
It's nice that you have another 1968 Ford that you can use as a reference. Alec over @technology connections refers to that solution as "through the magic of buying two" :)
Electrical tape the broken pieces together tightly. Then also restrain the outside of the cable in places to prevent flex or limit it as much as possible. Lube the cable if possible and the fix will work good enough for winter... maybe.
Hmmm. You gave me an idea.
Unhook the cable, pull the outer sheathing over the end of the actual metal cable, use J.B. Weld to reattach the piece of broken off sheath, then use a piece of heat shrink tubing to cover the "joint area" of sheath. I repaired a cable on my 69 Lemans this way a few years ago and is still holding together. If the passage hole in the sheath gets "clogged" with J.B. Weld when "gluing them together" and the metal cable won't pass thru, just carefully use a proper size drill bit to reopen the hole. This happened to me, but it only took 2 minutes with a drill to open the hole back up, then the cable slid back thru, and I was able to reconnect it. I'd also try and lube it extra good! I like PB blaster for stuff like this over a spray grease or silicone spray because when the grease or silicone sprays fully dries, they usually leave a hard residue behind that will actually cause the cable to completely seize inside the cable sheathing.
Hack job. Make a new retaining sleeve. It could be done with a roll pin, a sleeve from a sleeve anchor, whatever you can attach to cable sleeve, how, your choice, the other end under clamp. Tighten to crush or if it needs to travel just enough to hold the replacement retaining sleeve.
@@RareClassicCars Adam you might get a cable lube tool. There usually sold at most motorcycle shops and of course online along with cable lube which is graphite based. It forces the lube down through the cable housing. They work pretty slick.
@@OathTaker3 Anything short of replacing the cable is a Hack job Mr. Perfect.
Can you fabricate an extension to the cable clamp so that you catch the cable further back.
Book 'em, Danno!!
I had a '76 Cordoba that also had a broken cable for the heat control. Every fall for the 3 years I had it, I would have to move the rocker under the hood from cool to heat, then back again in the spring.
Great video Adam and nice fix!!
Nice ride 👌
Book em Danno !😊
I certainly love my Mercury
Book 'em, Danno--MURDER ONE!
Hey Adam. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the vacuum operated coolant valve is an "On/Off" affair. When moving the slider to full cold, it triggers that vacuum switch to shut the valve. Also, pretty sure that the temp regulation is done with a blend door. Try hooking a vacuum gauge to the hose at the valve and see what triggers it. I've also seen FoMoCo trigger that cutoff valve by selecting Max A/C as well. Let me know what you find ... it's been a while since working on these!
I’m not familiar with car HVAC of this vintage, but was a little surprised to hear how Adam described it. He could be right, though. If he’s right, the thing on the firewall ought to be a thermostat that senses the heater-core temperature and cycles the coolant on/off. My ‘85 Chrysler Laser had a vacuum-operated coolant valve, but its purpose was to shut the coolant off when it was on Max A/C (i.e. recirculated air). I think its Max A/C was a separate detent at the cold end of the temperature slider.
@@kc9scott On Chrysler products around this vintage (1960's - 70's) with A/C, they often had a manual temp control cable that ran to a valve underhood. It would vary the flow through the valve instead of using a "blend door."
Don't they put the power antenna in the trunk because the motor has more room, making for an easier installation? I love the clean, sharp look of this year compared to the '69 after it. I learn so much watching this channel; I don't see any other channel with straight information like this.
The ‘65 Pontiac Bonneville apparently also used front for manual antenna, rear for power antenna. Adam’s Bonneville has manual antenna in front, and my uncle’s Bonneville had power antenna in the back.
Your solution to just move the cable past the broken piece should work for awhile. Just try to remove the broken piece so it doesn't cause any binding issues. Also you can spray some lubricant into the tube so the cable moves freely. I believe they make a lubricant specifically for cables.
Adam, Are you fixing the heater now because this Park Lane is going to be your 'winter beater'?🤔😉🤣
I just replaced a cable on my mother's 65 Mustang 3 days ago. The tips of my fingers are all chewed up and sore from messing with that cable under the dash! What a pain in the @$$! With that being said, I think I see a fix for your sleeve that will allow you to keep it positioned in the right place under that tab and screw. Loosen the screw and remove tab which will release cable under hood. Use a very small amount of super glue to hold the two pieces of the sleeve together (not too much... we dont want to freeze the cable itself in place). Once that is dried, get some jb weld mixed up and apply a thin layer to the sleeve all the way around it. Once that cures, apply a second coat around the first. Make the second coat a thicker... but not so thick that the sleeve won't fit well under the retainer tab when you put it back together. After it's cured for at least a full day, then reinstall the cable sleeve under the tab in the same position as before. Your control travel on the dash should be as it was originally. Hope that helps... or at least gives you an idea to improve on for some amount of success!
My '68 Park Lane had a second fan switch under the dash which gave a hurricane setting to the heater. You could roast weenies at the vents.
My inner MacGyver would bind the sheathing in place using CA glue and activator and moving the cable while it affixes to prevent sticking. Then reinforcing the break with manipulated aluminum bandage clips fitted across the break and pressed in around the cylindrical sheath to hold the fractured part together. Layer of duct tape to encapsulate the clips in place. And electrical heat shrink to make everything I just did a little more weatherproof.
I would wrap the cable once with electrical tape at the break, then add a sleeve of heat shrink tube. After you heat shrink it, you should have a solid cable again. I know you would still have to disconnect the cable on the broken end to slip on the heat shrink, but it seems easier than replacing the cable.
I think I would cut a small piece of steel and bolt it to the bracket where the clamp is, bend it a little so the cable ferrule fits into it, and bolt the clamp down a little further over on the new piece. Another option would be to pull the cable off the lever and try to bend the end of it a little more to make the cable shorter.
Simple fix: Encapsulate the broken heater control cable with a slightly larger (hollow) tube over the broken area. Attach the larger "tube" over the broken cable with careful glueing. A construction adhesive like Loctite PL3X would work great for this. Just make sure you don't glue the cable to the tube/sleeve it slides through.
Interesting design. Mercedes used variable coolant flow in their cars well into the 2000s!
Clock works!
I’m picturing a little barrel to connect the ends of the broken cable.
It seems like you could lengthen the wire that controls the heat by crimping a new piece of wire as long as the crimp doesn't impede the travel of the existing wire.
There are great videos on how to free up the Bowden cables with marvel mystery oil and water bottles.
Pretty Cool Adam, enjoyed, can you do a follow up video? Love your Mercurys! They’re better than Lincoln’s
Slide a piece of heavy wall heat shrink tubing over the broken part of the cable, it should easily be strong enough to hold it together and make the cable usable.
Oh how much I prefer the slider bars that actuate a cable to open and close various deflectors. And YES, the vacuum operated valve that controls the flow to the heater core is the best way to control the heat. These modern cars that need computers, relays and cheapo nylon gears that will ALL eventually break sucks and is very difficult to access for replacement.
To fix that cable maybe throw a piece of heavy duty heat shrink tubing. Nice car
Neat car😉👍
layer of adhesive, heat shrink over the top, job done.
What adhesive would you suggest?
Similar to the Hawaii '5-0' Park Lane. That interior was black. Dad owned an Anniversary Silver '64 Park Lane hardtop. Lots quite a few hats from that rear window.
You can try wrapping the cable with shrink tubing or some fiberglass patch repair cloth