Another thing is max rate! My 10inch is only capable of around 500deg per second on pitch. Going higher results in motor saturation on stopping a flip because of the massive battery
UAV Tech Great you got a little onto the dark side of bigger rigs and shared some great info ;-) there is a nice fb group dedicated to bigger setups if you like to join
Also carbon quality and frame design matters. Some cheap 7" frames are kind of flexible no matter what you do. But that's correcty that firmaware will not fix hardware problems. If it vibrates, then it vibrates. Period!
Great tutorial. I just finished my first 7" drone and its time tune! I have built many 5" rigs and I tune my quads by ear. I definitely learned a bunch watching and will watch it a few times. Thanks for all the knowledge you have shared.
This video fixed my quad. my 5in quad has 5151 props, so the props spin a lot slower than usual (i just like these props). I couldnt get a good tune so decided to pretend it was a 6in quad. the filters part of this video really helped. mostly getting the rpm filter cutoff lower.
You’re a crazy BF wizard. You helped me allot with my 7” floss 2.1. The only thing I had was a wobble after sharp throttle moves. 2 points up on the P D gains and now it’s epic. Thank you!!!
Mark, this was very very helpful! Thanks for sharing!! I was spending hours trying to tune out oscillations/ bobbles on my FR7 build - with this video, it took just 2 lipos! Thanks.
This is one of your best how too videos. I really liked the format starting with mechanical and why.etc etc. Maybe because your targeting a specific size or something idk but really easy to follow. Thanks
oh my, this is a lot to learn and to actually understand what each and every item does. I have been down this road with automotive. It took me probably about 10 years to fully understand each and every function of a scanner on a professional level by reading engine data and knowing exactly whats going on, inputs, outputs, graphing, feedback, data logging etc. It seems like this hobby needs better "fuel trim" like a flight controller that can see the motor noise and correct without manual tuning. It will probably get there one day I'm sure. At least the gyro seems to have a good handle on controlling the motor speeds, to think know two motors are exactly the same and yet a quad can hover perfectly level, its a start.
theuavtech.com Filters are adaptive, but nothing beats the good old human brain. Hence cars still do not auto-tune for racing, not racing auto-drive, etc...
A more conservative initial setup is that you can bring the D_Term filtering slider down to 0.85, and limit the dynamic notch Q range from 70Hz to 270Hz (since it's rare to have resonance in that higher range that matters a lot... for 7" On 10" setups, I'd recommend bringing first flights down even further. Biggest reason for this is that a lot of props have acoustic resonance in the 140Hz range (7" biblades) to 105Hz (9" carbon biblades), which can alias into lower frequency oscillations
Wow! This was really helpful actually - I came just here for curiosity about whether my next step should be 5 or 7 inch, but you helped me understand my tinyhawk tune a lot better! And that blackbox explorer looks pretty impressive too. So that's how you figure out those magical filter settings!
Thank you! Built a 7" mini-cinelifter for "small" cameras (400-600g w/out lens) and it flew a bit odd with stock pids... some pitch wobble and ice skating... and I have zero tuning experience. I spent a couple hours today flying it along with your video and it's much improved. I couldn't get myself to invert it though (used to tiny whoops with zero consequence), but I'm not flying it that aggressive anyway...
@@uavtech my quad is a TBS Source 7 inch turned upside down with Thicc inspired camera mounting on what was formerly the belly. 6s 3000mah hanging off what was formerly the top. Dead cat layout, I tried hard to on center CG. I was surprised the initial spectrograph was so clean, looks better than the Thicc you show. My previous build was a 6” with cam and battery on top but it flew funny... I figured it couldn’t be a good thing to have an inverted pendulum which is how I settled on building an upside down 7”. Beginners luck or am I oblivious to something? Most of my stick time is on a Beta85 so I’m not super familiar with how big quads handle.
Incredible useful! Most of my quads fly okish with bf4.2 stock tune. Not so one of my heavier 5" freestylers with mass spread out liberally along the roll axis, combined with lower KV motors. This one felt real sluggish and showed some pronounced bounce back, but only for pitch. Lowering I term relax and tuning the pitch axis alone to lower P/D while raising P+D helped a lot -- the BF4.2 sliders are not usable for such an asymmetric tune, however. The larger quad hints where helping here a lot!
I've recently had some issue with my 7inch quad... some motor wobbling during stable conering or powerlooping with high amplitute vibration on roll axis, this appened only with 2 blades propeller, flying betafligth stock (4.1 and later 4.2). I tried some pid tuning but at some point the flight controller rebooted during flight!!! Later I discovered I had a cracked arm.. I bought a budget frame with 4mm arm and now I see the consequences.. anyway I though that was a filtering issue and I thought maybe to work on that before pid tuning (of course after repairing the frame..)... Nice to ear you also recommend that. I will follow you guide.. thanks for the video!!
another tip learned!!! thanks UAV Tech!!! I have the XL10 using 10" props and i must say the quality of my props aren't that great; APC 10" Bi-blades. thinking about the Master Airscrew 9" or 10". hopefully that alone will aid in making my quads feel better.
we need a lot of data on good tunes, so we can analyse trends and end up with prop size, auw, cell count, and motor size (with kv) sliders which set the pids directly through those numbers
What I got for a 6" 4S 1800mah rig with a Session. 787grams 2207 2450KV set dyn_lpf_dterm_max_hz = 187 set dyn_lpf_dterm_curve_expo = 7 set dterm_lowpass2_hz = 165 set vbat_sag_compensation = 100 set anti_gravity_gain = 3000 set feedforward_transition = 25 set iterm_relax_cutoff = 10 set iterm_windup = 75 set pidsum_limit = 1000 set pidsum_limit_yaw = 1000 set yaw_lowpass_hz = 70 set throttle_boost = 3 set throttle_boost_cutoff = 10 set p_pitch = 58 set d_pitch = 48 set f_pitch = 105 set p_roll = 50 set d_roll = 44 set f_roll = 99 set p_yaw = 99 set f_yaw = 99
Thanks for posting this bro i have built several 7inch 9inch and 10inch kwads and the 9inch and 10inch are almost impossible for me to get perfect so im looking else where for help. Your video just popped up and boom its exactly what i needed....
Good luck. I've been trying to tune a 6 and 7 inch for a year now!!!! With no good results except headaches and holes in walls from me punching them. I've given up on quads all together. Just not my thing. The tuning drives me insane. I don't have the patience for all that computer time. Fixedwing I don't have to do much tuning if any. Planes just fly! good luck.
I boosted my D high being i needed a lot of P to have any authority. and was overshooting. Now Im trying Dmin to play around with seeing about less D when just cruising.
First, thank you for taking the time to help us out!! Much appreciated! Just built a super G+ and I watched this a few times and took notes.. getting ready to take the maiden and try to tune using your method to the T. Second, I read through most of the comments and nobody asked what kind of props were on your 10" build. Care to share?
So the quad in the photo was a 7". I tuned a 9" for Johnny and those were 9x5x3, but I only have some photos now (it was sent back when done) and the props were not branded. I reckon they were HQ props.
hi my xl10 iflight woobling in the air can I use this tune I have xing 2814-1100kv and foxxer reaper 65amp use 4s wont to try 6s butt need the woobling go away first best regards Thomas norway
My 7 inch with Gopro, battery and 2806 motors weighs 1040 grams, how can I know if I need to start from master multiplier at 1.2 or master multiplier at 1.5? Thanks in advance. I find it really confusing.
I know it's a long shot but hoping you could shed some light. I am seeing slight jello on my deadcat 7". I think it's my D's cos I see some oscillation in blackbox during that jello. First thought was lower D but I'm wondering, since D is a noise amplifier, I should actually be upping my filters instead? I suspect by lowering D, I will throw off my P/D balance and seems like a death spiral trap like I-term induced oscillations.
Generally, without looking at logs, turn off D_min and tune PD Balance to be Critically Dempened (tiny.cc/pidtuning). Then move up PD Gain till get ride of oscillations. On a 7", it is better to have filter sliders at 1.0 and higher PD gains than it is to reduce filters at the cost of having to have lower gains. I would also have RPM filter and Dyn Notch enabled.
@@uavtech lol I didn't think ud respond. Mr tech I studied ur PID Tuning principles backward and forward and even did a summary for people on intofpv. Yes I did all that as per ur guide. I'm at a sticky point in the PD balance part of the process where I pull one lever seems to cause something else. Increasing filters did no improvement which suggests I had no noise being amplified. Reducing d only served to let loose p without lowering jello. Just went out again and tried reducing overall master to see if that works. To be clear it flies really well using your tuning methodology but I am trying to clean up the last bit of jello. Not 100% but maybe say targeting 99.5% lol.
Here is my best run this is a 7 inch Project 399 Super G Plus which I am finding much much much more finnicky to tune versus my TBS One Source 7 inch deadcat. I am not using an ND filter, no stabilization software, and it's hot and windy. So it's pretty good just not perfect enough I think ... ua-cam.com/video/XaK60iWkQhU/v-deo.html
Thank you for the video. What I have been facing with large quads is tiny wobbles and jellos. I noticed that they are not related to pd values. I can get really locked in quad but still havd jellos. It would be great to cover this aspects as well. I could get rid of some by zeros dgaind and increasing advance. Not sure how they are related!
@@uavtech Yes, I run low filter. I also tried several props. What is recommended for 7 inches is HQ7x4x3. However, still many people complain about such wobbles for 7 inches. I zeroed d gain and increased d advance up to 45. It really help alot. that's why I noticed it is not related to pid values. I run 4.1.6. I have to try 4.2 since in other quads 4.2 works perfectly.
Thanks for the video! A couple questions: Up until now I’ve only flown sub 250grams quads, and I just watched a couple of your tuning videos and your talk about bounce back. I’m not sure what you mean by that term? Also just built an insider and trying to tune it, should I do the tune with it carrying the full 1K+ weight it would have with a camera on board? Thanks!
You want to tune with the flying weight. Moment of Inertia matter and weight & shape impacts that. See my guide definitions at theuavtech.com/pidtuning to define bounceback
I have been working on a 6 and 7 inch for almost a year! Both Betaflight and Emuflight. Multiple ESC's/4&1 new motors ect... I ALWAYS have this weird twitching or squeaking sound that I can't seem to get rid of. Its horrible!! I've pretty much given up at this point and I'm glad warmer weather is coming I can get my fix off my Fixedwing flying. I never could grasp this quad tuning and honestly it gives me a headache every time I try to learn. With planes I don't have to worry about tuning much and they have autotune which imo is super.
@@uavtech your videos tutorials are great and I'm sure they help most. I'm just not very patient anymore and prefer not spending much time sitting in front of computer screen. Thanks for replies and your time.
is any chance you can help me im trying to tune 7 inch 2806.5 avenger motor quad in calm weather fly perfect but if i have windy conditions its shaking a little drone with all gear weight 950g and i cant figure out what to do that it wouldn't shake that much. there is no bounce back nothing i increased i gain on pitch it helped a little but still not as smooth as its in good weather conditions.
Thanks Mark for the great work. I would like some advice to solve jello problems on my 7 inch. I mounted a large 8000 mah battery and it started to give problems. it could also be an engine bell that has taken a beating. how can I understand it? I followed your advice but I was unable to resolve. thank you very much!
Just noticing this video is 3 years old. Does the information still apply today? I was wondering if you might put out an update to this video. I fly 7" and 10" and would appreciate the help. Especially on hot motors. Thanks
Your videos are amazing, thank you. Could you do a current betaflight tune video like this for high power 3” quads. It is the most finicky to tune I’ve encountered and I just can’t get it right. Anyways great job!
That would be awesome! For a seasoned tuner it might not be hard but for someone new to tuning the size and power difference is enough to make it hard to get started and go in the right direction. I haven’t seen any how to’s for smaller quads like that so I’m sure others would find it very helpful. Thanks again!!
Hi, very helpfull video but while i'm starting to get a good P&D value around slider 1.3 to 1.4, motor saturations comes... idk if it's coming from my frames because it's a FR7 brand new with 6mm arms. i can ear it and see it on my blackbox. Can 1.5 master multiplier beeing too high for me? Can esc parameters affect this? at least my quad flies great with 1.3 master and 1.2 multi without motor saturations. thanks again!
This has to be one of the most informative videos on 7" tuning i have found, big respect for taking the time to create this tutorial! I have a quick question that is probably relatively simple.. when increasing the sliders on my filters (less filtering) anything over 1.3 and the quad behaves strangely when arming, the props don't spin as smoothly and calmly like they do with filters set to 1.0, it's almost like it is correcting for something constantly changing RPM. This also gets dramatically worse if i increase the Master Multiplier or PD Gain slider, but seems to disappear if i decrease the PD Balance slider below 0.8. Any help of info on this would be greatly appreciated, i knew 7" builds were notoriously more difficult to tune, but eliminating propwash and bounceback is becoming frustrating, as fixing 1 issue seems to introduce another! Thanks again! Avenger 2507 1500KV GEPRC 7" MK4 MATEK F722 SE
sweet begebbus... So if the flight controller is getting all this kind of spectrograph noise, why can't it be running a whole different PID controller process to minimize all the noise over time and self tune the quad by itself. Is there just not enough ram or processor power to do that on the flight controller?
It is more than meets the eye to self tune. Many have tried. Many have failed. And yes, the on-board power is very limited. Now that H7 is just making its way onto the market, that may help some there but the code to auto-tune needs some serious dedication of work.
These long range builds tend to be asymmetrical ie, deadcat. Do you think it's worth entering custom motor distances? Also does the general "arbitrary" D still apply to this class ala your PID Tuning guide?
If you go beyond the sliders and tune per axis, you should not need to change mixer. If you stick to the sliders, it could have some merit. So you start with an arbitrary D-gain, but want to push up to the PD Gain as talked about in the video.
Thanks for this. I was banging my head why I was getting so much jello generally using the PID Tuning Principles. Being a 7" 4S long range build, I thought the starting D at 40-60 was the sweet spot. Yea not so much. I'm still tuning based on this methodology but so far I'm looking at P's at 100 / 110ish and D's at 80's lol wtf. But otherwise I was getting mad jello with more "traditional" looking PIDs. Also notice that the filtering strategy here is a lot less aggressive or am I not the slider equivalent correctly? Motors are only warm to the touch (Brotherhobby Avenger 2507 1500kv). I still have a wee bit of jello left that is driving me nuts. I am not using ND filter though cos I want to get as clean as possible without assists.
If I'am using a taranis xd9+ running crossfire shot newst FW but I have been running a older open TX FW would this effect my flight characteristics?? Or would it not sense I'am using crossfire shot?? I've heard that as long is I'm using crossfire it wont make a difference & doesn't matter what version open tx i'm using!! Asking because I was watching rc smoothing video you produced about a year ago & u didn't mention what I'm asking now!! On BF 4.2 if I run rc smoothing under receiver tab 50% flys good not perfect but really good compared to if I leave it at stock 10% I get so much bubbles & stutters!! I even checked my smoothing under cli when it's at 50% all the way max & it's 6.677 latency I haven't checked yet with it turned to stock%10 yet!!
Very interesting and informative video. Do you have a preferred 7" prop? I'm using the Brother Hobby Avenger 2806.5 1300Kv motors. Thanks., happy flying. 🤓
@@uavtech That happens to be one of the sets i ordered yesterday. I used the settings in your video on a new 7" project 399 Super G - THANK YOU! It's flying great...
Dear Mark, thanks! Could you please give a "common 7 inch" filter baseline for 4.2 RPM? I mean RPM Min Freq (same as dynamic notch min Hz, according to this video), DynNotch Max Hz.. Yes I understand it's differnt for every quad, but just a starting point. And, if I set my Bbox to log at 2KHz, is it better to hover and then look at gyro traces with your template or whole throttle range is better? I hovered and raw gyro says my max motor noise on roll is around 150Hz and it doesn't have any visible noise on filtered traces, but I want to be kinda_sure since it's a long range setup and I want filter sliders at 1.4, not 1 )) Thank you!
Hi Mark! Thank you really much for this content! As I'm writing this, I'm on the field and try to tune my 10'' Quad with Brotherhobby T5 3115 950kv motors with BLHeli32 ESCs. I'm just wondering if there are some things to consider with the ESC configuration. Do we have to consider motor timings, rampup power, demag compensation in larger builds?
no, when raw vibrations are too much it gets into the Red area. But if peak where the Dyn Notch or RPM filters can jump on it, it might not be a big deal. Basically, if it is flying OK, won't worry too much about the spectrogram.
How about tuning out wobbles? I am trying to fix my 10" wobbles but seems nobody can pinpoint the cause.. Basically the drone is flying perfectly straight and its twitching as seen by the gyro traces while RC command is stuck in neutral. I have messed with prop balance, ESC settings, FC filters, PID tuning, Nothing has fixed this...
So even for a 620-650g 6 inch quad running 2306 motors it also included as low authority quad that need high D gain? Until now my mind set when trying to pid tune my 6inch like a 5 inch just because of having equal AUW. So this thought was wrong as you said. So that ill try to play with higher D tomorrow..
Relatively high P&D gains (together) help with lower authority. At lower throttle values, thrust_linear is useful. You can also move the DMin Gain to 55 and DMIn Advance to 100 in order to have more effective D gain more of the time, instead of just bringing up gains.
im probably wrong but it looks like to me that moving the filter sliders to the right just lowers the hz values, surely that might be needed for quads that have lots of low end noise?
Sure, if it does. This one did not. So less filtering lets the gyro signal be more in-sync with the actual motion of the quad, which allows the PID loop react better to wind, etc...
I have a 10 inch drone I’m trying to tune. The PD balance isn’t helping bounce back. I’ll the way right “in the red” it still have bounce back. Any help? Thanks.
You are having i-term bounceback. See ua-cam.com/video/Sq_DFjmvVDE/v-deo.html With BF, can use i-Term Relax as well to fight i-Term bounceback. Reduce i-Term Relax cutoff to 5.
I had the cutoff set to 5 like you had in the video. So no change. I will watch the I term tuning video and see if I can get it. Thanks for all the great content.
I understood the words propeller and motor. I think I know what ESC is (The button on my keyboard is what I am hoping he is talking about or I am in over my head).
Thanks for the video! I really needed it. So is it ok to go I more than 70 on 7 inch quad?? I stopped at about 45 P and 35 D. Im having wobbles on descend and looks like I from 50 to 90 nothing changing in a flight.. so i set it to 70..
Hi UAV Tech, i bought myself a set of flat rats 6s 1507 2700kv, and ive tried to tune my quad (bumblebee Iflight) for months now and tried different flight controllers, esc's and all. Its smooth but motors have very little torque, cannot completely stop motor desync. ive tried lowing ramp up power to 18% demag to high and motor degree to 23. ive got rpm filtering setup. regret buying these expensive mr steel motors, t motor were cheaper too. ive messaged a few people asking for help including mr steel but no reply.
I just built a 6" with iflight 20x20 and hyperlite motors im running 6" bi blade from hq and im on stock tune 4.2 I'm having issues of mid to high throttle then let off to zero throttle its still shooting up in the air. What would be the first thing to look at when going about that?
I am using a blheli_32 esc on my 7" and I can't get Bidirectional dshot to work? It's the racerstar metal v2 ESC. Is there a trick to it? What could I try? Thanks!
wow how did i miss this channel., got my sub. just one thing though..just flashed bf 4.2 onto my 10' rig and i think it flies great on stock pids. motors are ice cold after a 5 min flight . should i be worried ?
Im going to try to tune my 7inch with that video but I have a question before I start. How do I know if my master PID slider is to high or to low. You told that it depends on power to weight ratio but how do I see or feel that the slider is to high or to low? From my understanding this part is the most important before I keep going to tune the next step?
It is an iterative process. So you pump up to some to get to the general range - as discussed. Then get PD Balance squared. Once PD balance is set, you can move up Master or PD gain slider till you get oscillations or motors start to get warm.
I think I got ya. Just to be sure. If I raise the PD Gain in the final step of tuning I just raise P & D. But if I want to have my quad flying more „stiffer“ for example I need to raise master slider because I don’t raise just P & D with master slider I also raise I and that’s what I want to have for this example?
Yeah. If the craft is fairly small - UNLIKE - the thumbnail image quad, then you don't need massive I-term. So in that case, maybe raise the Master a little, but for the rest raise just the PD Gain slider. Alternatively, if a massive quad with two big 8S 3000mah batteries on it and a huge 1kg camera, more emphasis should be placed on Master.
This video would pertain to a 5'' build as well, correct? Your other videos are all about changing the numbers and starting at 40 with D, but his is the first I have seen that you exclusively use the sliders..
That filter setup is very conservative and will struggle in most propwash situations with a 5" setup; basically larger disc area setups can react a touch slower but benefit from more filtering, while 5" doesn't need as much filtering down low so you can get better immediacy (phase latency) in response
So I just built a 7 inch I’m running the motor f55 pro with a f7 and the racerstar/tmotor air b 1498 Kv. I’m running the hq 7inch triblades and literally as soon as I arm it blasts off to the sky. So I lowered the p an d to try and help bad mistake it hovered and then dropped out the sky the motors were piping hot, needless to say I put it down until I figure something out please help I don’t want to ruin my quad and I don’t know what to do
It is a severe vibration issue. Focus your attention there. Props, props, props is the first place I would look, but not the last. I would use logging to help pinpoint.
The ShenDrones Thicc was 1kg, 7". www.shendrones.com/hevithicc The PD Balance was inverted. I think we ended up with P=77, Dmin=60, Dmax=110. Tune at: quadstandardlabs.com/downloads-and-documents?fbclid=IwAR0Y5YokF6jMh6Xd5gSsqhH9l4Wnua1oHavLbiDR4AGtSqDQpboqODsLBZE
@@uavtech Thank you!! I loved the read, and I may end up near that tune. I'm going through your blackbox series again to refresh and I just need to give a day to tuning the big bastard. Oh, and how does the thicc build come in so light with twice the electronics? am i missing something? mine was 1001g auw.
UAV Tech im wondering about setting the dynamic notch widtch to 0 and whether that is beneficial in my particular circumstance. That is completely doing away with the second notch filter entirely by setting that to zero so im just wondering why you suggest that? I know that will lower filter delay which helps with responsiveness but does that help with making the kwad fly smooth or would that make vibrations possibly worse? im asking cause i dont know myself so im wondering if you can teach me a lil something on the subject. By the way your video has been loads helpful in tuning my 10inch qav-r 2 xl check out my channel i got it set up with dji and it carries my insta360 one r once in a while or my insta360 go
It will compensate for the delay added by the RPM filters. However, notches are better than Lowpass filtesrs, so maybe try putting to 8 and seeing if you can increase the lowpass filter sliders.
@@uavtech You're right my question wasn't clear enough. I will try again: If I follow your video and do all the tuning that you propose on my 5" kwad, will the tune be effecient for this size of kwad?
This is the first time I‘m a little skeptical with your advice. With sugfested 1.0 Filters and PIDs at default there is a big chance of wild freakouts and this is not funny with a 10inch flying brick. From personal experience I would suggest starting at 0.8 in tge filters. What you got right is electrical. Even with carefully balanced 2 blades, electrical is a big thing in these rigs
Yeah, biggest one of those is the DTerm filtering - any P oscillations are going to become pretty obvious before getting off the ground, but the D driven ones are harder to deal with, and filtering that more is pretty low cost.
Photo with pro camera on 7" thing seems very complicated way how to trash 5000$ worth equipment :D Although thanks about tutorial. I feel that it may become handy.
I think i would learn it better if I send you my quad so you can tune it ( of course i will pay). So i can see the difference between what i think its good and whats really good. Lol. Good vid. I dont even know why i watch these tho
@@uavtech mine is a 5 inch. I was just interested on learning alittle. But im going to re watch the whole thing. I know you said its the same process with hardware and props being the most important. And then the filters and ect. I just had left most of mine on 3.5.7 with Bardwells filter setting and minor pid ajustments and it flys pretty good. No weird shakes on the hd feed or nothing but i do want to start the black box and i need to rewatch alot of your older videos so that i can get it better. Takes me a bit.
![Betaflight 4.6 Altitude HOLD [preview]](/img/n.gif)
Another thing is max rate! My 10inch is only capable of around 500deg per second on pitch. Going higher results in motor saturation on stopping a flip because of the massive battery
Good point. Missed covering that.
UAV Tech
Great you got a little onto the dark side of bigger rigs and shared some great info ;-) there is a nice fb group dedicated to bigger setups if you like to join
Which one is that?
UAV Tech
facebook.com/groups/MacroQuads/?ref=share
@@uavtech someone on that page actually suggested this video to me when I asked about turning larger quads
This was such a big help. Took my 8" from barely flyable to steady hovering even in Angle mode in less than 10mins of tweaking.
Thanks for the vid. Really helped me tune my 7 inch quad after I upgraded the engines to 6s 2508 2450 kv
Also carbon quality and frame design matters. Some cheap 7" frames are kind of flexible no matter what you do. But that's correcty that firmaware will not fix hardware problems. If it vibrates, then it vibrates. Period!
Great tutorial. I just finished my first 7" drone and its time tune! I have built many 5" rigs and I tune my quads by ear. I definitely learned a bunch watching and will watch it a few times. Thanks for all the knowledge you have shared.
This video fixed my quad.
my 5in quad has 5151 props, so the props spin a lot slower than usual (i just like these props). I couldnt get a good tune so decided to pretend it was a 6in quad. the filters part of this video really helped. mostly getting the rpm filter cutoff lower.
Thanks for this mate, you are a master fashow! Having major issues tuning a 7" build on 4.3.1 from 4.0.6 that was running half decent.
You’re a crazy BF wizard. You helped me allot with my 7” floss 2.1. The only thing I had was a wobble after sharp throttle moves. 2 points up on the P D gains and now it’s epic. Thank you!!!
Mark, this was very very helpful! Thanks for sharing!! I was spending hours trying to tune out oscillations/ bobbles on my FR7 build - with this video, it took just 2 lipos! Thanks.
Thanks for this. The more I fly.. the more I learn.. how much there is to learn.
Awesome. I am your 61st Patron 👍🏻💪🏻
This is one of your best how too videos. I really liked the format starting with mechanical and why.etc etc. Maybe because your targeting a specific size or something idk but really easy to follow. Thanks
Sweet to hear!!
oh my, this is a lot to learn and to actually understand what each and every item does. I have been down this road with automotive. It took me probably about 10 years to fully understand each and every function of a scanner on a professional level by reading engine data and knowing exactly whats going on, inputs, outputs, graphing, feedback, data logging etc. It seems like this hobby needs better "fuel trim" like a flight controller that can see the motor noise and correct without manual tuning. It will probably get there one day I'm sure. At least the gyro seems to have a good handle on controlling the motor speeds, to think know two motors are exactly the same and yet a quad can hover perfectly level, its a start.
theuavtech.com
Filters are adaptive, but nothing beats the good old human brain. Hence cars still do not auto-tune for racing, not racing auto-drive, etc...
A more conservative initial setup is that you can bring the D_Term filtering slider down to 0.85, and limit the dynamic notch Q range from 70Hz to 270Hz (since it's rare to have resonance in that higher range that matters a lot... for 7"
On 10" setups, I'd recommend bringing first flights down even further. Biggest reason for this is that a lot of props have acoustic resonance in the 140Hz range (7" biblades) to 105Hz (9" carbon biblades), which can alias into lower frequency oscillations
I followed your words here and worked great on a 10”!
Ty for this! Just finished my 7" build and it's super loose. Definitely needs tuned 😎
This worked great, I'll be studying more of your videos. Great work
Wow! This was really helpful actually - I came just here for curiosity about whether my next step should be 5 or 7 inch, but you helped me understand my tinyhawk tune a lot better! And that blackbox explorer looks pretty impressive too. So that's how you figure out those magical filter settings!
Yup. It is like popping the hood on your car - or plugging it in now a days!
good video, time to tune my 7 inch. Thanks!
Very helpful video👍 will use it to tune my 7inch I will be building soon
Great video, this really helped me tune my latest build.
Thank you! Built a 7" mini-cinelifter for "small" cameras (400-600g w/out lens) and it flew a bit odd with stock pids... some pitch wobble and ice skating... and I have zero tuning experience. I spent a couple hours today flying it along with your video and it's much improved. I couldn't get myself to invert it though (used to tiny whoops with zero consequence), but I'm not flying it that aggressive anyway...
Sweet!!
@@uavtech my quad is a TBS Source 7 inch turned upside down with Thicc inspired camera mounting on what was formerly the belly. 6s 3000mah hanging off what was formerly the top. Dead cat layout, I tried hard to on center CG. I was surprised the initial spectrograph was so clean, looks better than the Thicc you show. My previous build was a 6” with cam and battery on top but it flew funny... I figured it couldn’t be a good thing to have an inverted pendulum which is how I settled on building an upside down 7”. Beginners luck or am I oblivious to something? Most of my stick time is on a Beta85 so I’m not super familiar with how big quads handle.
Love the content 💙💙💙
Incredible useful! Most of my quads fly okish with bf4.2 stock tune. Not so one of my heavier 5" freestylers with mass spread out liberally along the roll axis, combined with lower KV motors. This one felt real sluggish and showed some pronounced bounce back, but only for pitch. Lowering I term relax and tuning the pitch axis alone to lower P/D while raising P+D helped a lot -- the BF4.2 sliders are not usable for such an asymmetric tune, however. The larger quad hints where helping here a lot!
I've recently had some issue with my 7inch quad... some motor wobbling during stable conering or powerlooping with high amplitute vibration on roll axis, this appened only with 2 blades propeller, flying betafligth stock (4.1 and later 4.2). I tried some pid tuning but at some point the flight controller rebooted during flight!!!
Later I discovered I had a cracked arm.. I bought a budget frame with 4mm arm and now I see the consequences.. anyway I though that was a filtering issue and I thought maybe to work on that before pid tuning (of course after repairing the frame..)... Nice to ear you also recommend that. I will follow you guide.. thanks for the video!!
I am truly greatfull for your content!!! Thank you !!
Thanks!! Means a lot.
another tip learned!!! thanks UAV Tech!!! I have the XL10 using 10" props and i must say the quality of my props aren't that great; APC 10" Bi-blades. thinking about the Master Airscrew 9" or 10". hopefully that alone will aid in making my quads feel better.
we need a lot of data on good tunes, so we can analyse trends and end up with prop size, auw, cell count, and motor size (with kv) sliders which set the pids directly through those numbers
What I got for a 6" 4S 1800mah rig with a Session. 787grams 2207 2450KV
set dyn_lpf_dterm_max_hz = 187
set dyn_lpf_dterm_curve_expo = 7
set dterm_lowpass2_hz = 165
set vbat_sag_compensation = 100
set anti_gravity_gain = 3000
set feedforward_transition = 25
set iterm_relax_cutoff = 10
set iterm_windup = 75
set pidsum_limit = 1000
set pidsum_limit_yaw = 1000
set yaw_lowpass_hz = 70
set throttle_boost = 3
set throttle_boost_cutoff = 10
set p_pitch = 58
set d_pitch = 48
set f_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 50
set d_roll = 44
set f_roll = 99
set p_yaw = 99
set f_yaw = 99
Great video, Thanks!
Always love watching your videos ;) Keep up the knowledge sharing man :) cheers
Thanks for posting this bro i have built several 7inch 9inch and 10inch kwads and the 9inch and 10inch are almost impossible for me to get perfect so im looking else where for help. Your video just popped up and boom its exactly what i needed....
Good luck. I've been trying to tune a 6 and 7 inch for a year now!!!! With no good results except headaches and holes in walls from me punching them.
I've given up on quads all together. Just not my thing. The tuning drives me insane. I don't have the patience for all that computer time. Fixedwing I don't have to do much tuning if any. Planes just fly! good luck.
I have tuned numerous 6" through 10" quads and they were fine. Stick to the process outlined and you will be fine. theuavtech.com/tuning
I boosted my D high being i needed a lot of P to have any authority. and was overshooting. Now Im trying Dmin to play around with seeing about less D when just cruising.
Great tutorial! good job.
Thanks alot! Very usefull video!
Great video thank u
First, thank you for taking the time to help us out!! Much appreciated! Just built a super G+ and I watched this a few times and took notes.. getting ready to take the maiden and try to tune using your method to the T. Second, I read through most of the comments and nobody asked what kind of props were on your 10" build. Care to share?
So the quad in the photo was a 7". I tuned a 9" for Johnny and those were 9x5x3, but I only have some photos now (it was sent back when done) and the props were not branded. I reckon they were HQ props.
you glazed over the forward flight smoothness, what if you are getting a little side to side wobble on smooth forward flight? thank you in advance.
hi my xl10 iflight woobling in the air can I use this tune I have xing 2814-1100kv and foxxer reaper 65amp use 4s wont to try 6s butt need the woobling go away first best regards Thomas norway
My 7 inch with Gopro, battery and 2806 motors weighs 1040 grams, how can I know if I need to start from master multiplier at 1.2 or master multiplier at 1.5? Thanks in advance. I find it really confusing.
I know it's a long shot but hoping you could shed some light. I am seeing slight jello on my deadcat 7". I think it's my D's cos I see some oscillation in blackbox during that jello. First thought was lower D but I'm wondering, since D is a noise amplifier, I should actually be upping my filters instead? I suspect by lowering D, I will throw off my P/D balance and seems like a death spiral trap like I-term induced oscillations.
Generally, without looking at logs, turn off D_min and tune PD Balance to be Critically Dempened (tiny.cc/pidtuning). Then move up PD Gain till get ride of oscillations. On a 7", it is better to have filter sliders at 1.0 and higher PD gains than it is to reduce filters at the cost of having to have lower gains.
I would also have RPM filter and Dyn Notch enabled.
@@uavtech lol I didn't think ud respond. Mr tech I studied ur PID Tuning principles backward and forward and even did a summary for people on intofpv. Yes I did all that as per ur guide. I'm at a sticky point in the PD balance part of the process where I pull one lever seems to cause something else. Increasing filters did no improvement which suggests I had no noise being amplified. Reducing d only served to let loose p without lowering jello. Just went out again and tried reducing overall master to see if that works. To be clear it flies really well using your tuning methodology but I am trying to clean up the last bit of jello. Not 100% but maybe say targeting 99.5% lol.
Here is my best run this is a 7 inch Project 399 Super G Plus which I am finding much much much more finnicky to tune versus my TBS One Source 7 inch deadcat. I am not using an ND filter, no stabilization software, and it's hot and windy. So it's pretty good just not perfect enough I think ... ua-cam.com/video/XaK60iWkQhU/v-deo.html
Thank you for the video. What I have been facing with large quads is tiny wobbles and jellos. I noticed that they are not related to pd values. I can get really locked in quad but still havd jellos. It would be great to cover this aspects as well. I could get rid of some by zeros dgaind and increasing advance. Not sure how they are related!
Decrease your filter sliders. Sounds like a low frequency vibration issue. Did you look at the logs? Props, props, props.
@@uavtech Yes, I run low filter. I also tried several props. What is recommended for 7 inches is HQ7x4x3. However, still many people complain about such wobbles for 7 inches. I zeroed d gain and increased d advance up to 45. It really help alot. that's why I noticed it is not related to pid values. I run 4.1.6. I have to try 4.2 since in other quads 4.2 works perfectly.
@@uavtech I definitely checked logs and it seems d value is not stable in a straight flight
Thanks for the video! A couple questions:
Up until now I’ve only flown sub 250grams quads, and I just watched a couple of your tuning videos and your talk about bounce back. I’m not sure what you mean by that term?
Also just built an insider and trying to tune it, should I do the tune with it carrying the full 1K+ weight it would have with a camera on board? Thanks!
You want to tune with the flying weight. Moment of Inertia matter and weight & shape impacts that.
See my guide definitions at theuavtech.com/pidtuning to define bounceback
Hay man, so I have bf 4.2, are you saying to move the pd balance etc etc up when tunning?
I have been working on a 6 and 7 inch for almost a year! Both Betaflight and Emuflight.
Multiple ESC's/4&1 new motors ect...
I ALWAYS have this weird twitching or squeaking sound that I can't seem to get rid of. Its horrible!! I've pretty much given up at this point and I'm glad warmer weather is coming I can get my fix off my Fixedwing flying. I never could grasp this quad tuning and honestly it gives me a headache every time I try to learn. With planes I don't have to worry about tuning much and they have autotune which imo is super.
The THICC is tough for sure to not have shakes on FPV camera. I think they all show it. If bi-blades, that's the first mistake, but in either case.
@@uavtech your videos tutorials are great and I'm sure they help most. I'm just not very patient anymore and prefer not spending much time sitting in front of computer screen.
Thanks for replies and your time.
Splendid guide, can you recommend a 7" frame?
Floss 3 7inch
is any chance you can help me im trying to tune 7 inch 2806.5 avenger motor quad in calm weather fly perfect but if i have windy conditions its shaking a little drone with all gear weight 950g and i cant figure out what to do that it wouldn't shake that much. there is no bounce back nothing i increased i gain on pitch it helped a little but still not as smooth as its in good weather conditions.
I have been trying to fallow this for my Xclass but i been having so many issues and this has not helped yet
Thanks Mark for the great work. I would like some advice to solve jello problems on my 7 inch. I mounted a large 8000 mah battery and it started to give problems. it could also be an engine bell that has taken a beating. how can I understand it? I followed your advice but I was unable to resolve. thank you very much!
Check out 48hz ESC PWM and / or.more filtering.
Just noticing this video is 3 years old. Does the information still apply today? I was wondering if you might put out an update to this video. I fly 7" and 10" and would appreciate the help. Especially on hot motors. Thanks
All still applies.
You mentioned to turn down stick feel but does that move back to normal after tuning or stay at zero?
Turn it back up.
Yessssss 👍👍
Your videos are amazing, thank you. Could you do a current betaflight tune video like this for high power 3” quads. It is the most finicky to tune I’ve encountered and I just can’t get it right. Anyways great job!
Yep. Just got a toothpic quad in to review. can do it on that (2.5").
That would be awesome! For a seasoned tuner it might not be hard but for someone new to tuning the size and power difference is enough to make it hard to get started and go in the right direction. I haven’t seen any how to’s for smaller quads like that so I’m sure others would find it very helpful. Thanks again!!
Mark, so after you finish with the tuning, you return the d min and how many other settings to what values ?
i keep D_min off. Then set FF as desired for stick feel.
Hi,
very helpfull video but while i'm starting to get a good P&D value around slider 1.3 to 1.4, motor saturations comes... idk if it's coming from my frames because it's a FR7 brand new with 6mm arms.
i can ear it and see it on my blackbox. Can 1.5 master multiplier beeing too high for me? Can esc parameters affect this?
at least my quad flies great with 1.3 master and 1.2 multi without motor saturations.
thanks again!
This has to be one of the most informative videos on 7" tuning i have found, big respect for taking the time to create this tutorial!
I have a quick question that is probably relatively simple.. when increasing the sliders on my filters (less filtering) anything over 1.3 and the quad behaves strangely when arming, the props don't spin as smoothly and calmly like they do with filters set to 1.0, it's almost like it is correcting for something constantly changing RPM. This also gets dramatically worse if i increase the Master Multiplier or PD Gain slider, but seems to disappear if i decrease the PD Balance slider below 0.8.
Any help of info on this would be greatly appreciated, i knew 7" builds were notoriously more difficult to tune, but eliminating propwash and bounceback is becoming frustrating, as fixing 1 issue seems to introduce another!
Thanks again!
Avenger 2507 1500KV
GEPRC 7" MK4
MATEK F722 SE
sweet begebbus...
So if the flight controller is getting all this kind of spectrograph noise, why can't it be running a whole different PID controller process to minimize all the noise over time and self tune the quad by itself. Is there just not enough ram or processor power to do that on the flight controller?
It is more than meets the eye to self tune. Many have tried. Many have failed.
And yes, the on-board power is very limited. Now that H7 is just making its way onto the market, that may help some there but the code to auto-tune needs some serious dedication of work.
hi uav tech, can you make a video about betaflight G tune? how good is it?
These long range builds tend to be asymmetrical ie, deadcat. Do you think it's worth entering custom motor distances? Also does the general "arbitrary" D still apply to this class ala your PID Tuning guide?
If you go beyond the sliders and tune per axis, you should not need to change mixer. If you stick to the sliders, it could have some merit.
So you start with an arbitrary D-gain, but want to push up to the PD Gain as talked about in the video.
Thanks for this. I was banging my head why I was getting so much jello generally using the PID Tuning Principles. Being a 7" 4S long range build, I thought the starting D at 40-60 was the sweet spot. Yea not so much. I'm still tuning based on this methodology but so far I'm looking at P's at 100 / 110ish and D's at 80's lol wtf. But otherwise I was getting mad jello with more "traditional" looking PIDs. Also notice that the filtering strategy here is a lot less aggressive or am I not the slider equivalent correctly? Motors are only warm to the touch (Brotherhobby Avenger 2507 1500kv). I still have a wee bit of jello left that is driving me nuts. I am not using ND filter though cos I want to get as clean as possible without assists.
If I'am using a taranis xd9+ running crossfire shot newst FW but I have been running a older open TX FW would this effect my flight characteristics?? Or would it not sense I'am using crossfire shot?? I've heard that as long is I'm using crossfire it wont make a difference & doesn't matter what version open tx i'm using!! Asking because I was watching rc smoothing video you produced about a year ago & u didn't mention what I'm asking now!! On BF 4.2 if I run rc smoothing under receiver tab 50% flys good not perfect but really good compared to if I leave it at stock 10% I get so much bubbles & stutters!! I even checked my smoothing under cli when it's at 50% all the way max & it's 6.677 latency I haven't checked yet with it turned to stock%10 yet!!
Is there any benefit to balancing 7" tri blades? I have a magnetic prop balancer I use on airplane props.
Yes, of course it helps loads.
Very interesting and informative video. Do you have a preferred 7" prop? I'm using the Brother Hobby Avenger 2806.5 1300Kv motors. Thanks., happy flying. 🤓
me too! just ordered 2 of everything lol
HQ tri-Blade
@@uavtech That happens to be one of the sets i ordered yesterday. I used the settings in your video on a new 7" project 399 Super G - THANK YOU! It's flying great...
Dear Mark, thanks! Could you please give a "common 7 inch" filter baseline for 4.2 RPM? I mean RPM Min Freq (same as dynamic notch min Hz, according to this video), DynNotch Max Hz.. Yes I understand it's differnt for every quad, but just a starting point. And, if I set my Bbox to log at 2KHz, is it better to hover and then look at gyro traces with your template or whole throttle range is better? I hovered and raw gyro says my max motor noise on roll is around 150Hz and it doesn't have any visible noise on filtered traces, but I want to be kinda_sure since it's a long range setup and I want filter sliders at 1.4, not 1 )) Thank you!
Hey i am curious to know what to do with master multiplier and stick responce sliders after tuning? Reset them to 1.0 or leave them at .5 and 1.5?
Stick Response is up to your desired feel.
Master, I would leave as shown in the video.
Is tuning the new betaflight 4.2 diffrent that tuning 4.1. Or is tuning it the same as 4.1. Thank you for your work👍
same except for PD Balance slider is reversed in BF Configurator 10.7.
Hi Mark! Thank you really much for this content! As I'm writing this, I'm on the field and try to tune my 10'' Quad with Brotherhobby T5 3115 950kv motors with BLHeli32 ESCs. I'm just wondering if there are some things to consider with the ESC configuration. Do we have to consider motor timings, rampup power, demag compensation in larger builds?
Make sure on 24khz. For the others, i would leave a default as i don't have a good feel for the best setting for 3115 950kv motors.
Is there a giant advantage to using a blheli32 ESC over an blhelis setup for rpm filtering? If your not interested in the ESC telemetry.
Nope.
ARIZONA summer and motor heat , any trix to run cooler than normal motor temps? (Fly in the morning🤔)
Low pitch props.
@@uavtechim running hq6040s the right rear on all of them gets the hottest
So when is Pterm and Dterm noise too much - when it gets into the reds area on the spectrogram?
no, when raw vibrations are too much it gets into the Red area. But if peak where the Dyn Notch or RPM filters can jump on it, it might not be a big deal. Basically, if it is flying OK, won't worry too much about the spectrogram.
How about tuning out wobbles? I am trying to fix my 10" wobbles but seems nobody can pinpoint the cause..
Basically the drone is flying perfectly straight and its twitching as seen by the gyro traces while RC command is stuck in neutral.
I have messed with prop balance, ESC settings, FC filters, PID tuning, Nothing has fixed this...
Move up PD Gains.
thanks. is noise (frame, electrical, etc) visible just in hover?
Nope. More so at higher throttle values.
So even for a 620-650g 6 inch quad running 2306 motors it also included as low authority quad that need high D gain? Until now my mind set when trying to pid tune my 6inch like a 5 inch just because of having equal AUW. So this thought was wrong as you said. So that ill try to play with higher D tomorrow..
Relatively high P&D gains (together) help with lower authority. At lower throttle values, thrust_linear is useful. You can also move the DMin Gain to 55 and DMIn Advance to 100 in order to have more effective D gain more of the time, instead of just bringing up gains.
im probably wrong but it looks like to me that moving the filter sliders to the right just lowers the hz values, surely that might be needed for quads that have lots of low end noise?
Sure, if it does. This one did not. So less filtering lets the gyro signal be more in-sync with the actual motion of the quad, which allows the PID loop react better to wind, etc...
@@uavtech sorry I meant moving them to the left lowers the hz
I have a 10 inch drone I’m trying to tune. The PD balance isn’t helping bounce back. I’ll the way right “in the red” it still have bounce back. Any help? Thanks.
You are having i-term bounceback. See ua-cam.com/video/Sq_DFjmvVDE/v-deo.html
With BF, can use i-Term Relax as well to fight i-Term bounceback. Reduce i-Term Relax cutoff to 5.
I had the cutoff set to 5 like you had in the video. So no change. I will watch the I term tuning video and see if I can get it. Thanks for all the great content.
I understood the words propeller and motor. I think I know what ESC is (The button on my keyboard is what I am hoping he is talking about or I am in over my head).
theuavtech.com/tuning
UAV Tech Trace Templates link doesn't work
Tiny.cc/uavtech
See BBE Trace Templates folder.
Mark, I thought it was recommended to back blackbox logging down to 1khz now, since it's resource heavy when combined with rpm filtering
Generally yes, but for filter setup, i still like 2k so can see noise above 500hz (Nyquist Limit).
Thanks for the video! I really needed it.
So is it ok to go I more than 70 on 7 inch quad?? I stopped at about 45 P and 35 D.
Im having wobbles on descend and looks like I from 50 to 90 nothing changing in a flight.. so i set it to 70..
I-term will not help you with wobbles. If slow wobbles, increase PD Gain.
@@uavtech thanks! I will try
Everyone complains about bobbles and wobbles on 7inch quads, mine does this on tri blades , soon as I put on gemfan 7042 bi blades they fly perfect
Less prop weight I reckon.
Hi , thanks for your template file ! what do you mean by low power to weight ratio ? with my 7 inches on 6s It is around 10 or 12 max power.
10 or 12 max power? What does that mean?
@@uavtech my quad is about 800g with battery. And one motor has 2.5 kg max thrust. Four motors, 10kg, so 10/0.8 about 12
Hi UAV Tech, i bought myself a set of flat rats 6s 1507 2700kv, and ive tried to tune my quad (bumblebee Iflight) for months now and tried different flight controllers, esc's and all.
Its smooth but motors have very little torque, cannot completely stop motor desync. ive tried lowing ramp up power to 18% demag to high and motor degree to 23. ive got rpm filtering setup. regret buying these expensive mr steel motors, t motor were cheaper too.
ive messaged a few people asking for help including mr steel but no reply.
Bumblebee cinewhoop?
You could try Ramp Up as low as 12% (0.125 in BLHeli_S was always the trick before).
Desynces are usually an ESC thing I reckon.
I just built a 6" with iflight 20x20 and hyperlite motors im running 6" bi blade from hq and im on stock tune 4.2 I'm having issues of mid to high throttle then let off to zero throttle its still shooting up in the air. What would be the first thing to look at when going about that?
Noise. If stick filters and PIDs, go with some tri-blade props to see if better.
@@uavtech quick update its saying rxloss when those weird throttle happens. Is it noise still or something with this new srxl2 receiver
If you have crazy electrical noise, or maybe a bad receiver. Whichever: noise, electrical, or bad RX it sounds like it is a hardware issue.
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I am using a blheli_32 esc on my 7" and I can't get Bidirectional dshot to work?
It's the racerstar metal v2 ESC.
Is there a trick to it? What could I try?
Thanks!
Do you have firmware 32.7 or newer loaded? Are you on BF 4.2 with Configurator 10.7?
@@uavtech I upgrade to .7 firmware on the ESC's and now its working. Thanks!
wow how did i miss this channel., got my sub. just one thing though..just flashed bf 4.2 onto my 10' rig and i think it flies great on stock pids. motors are ice cold after a 5 min flight . should i be worried ?
Nope. Put i would.push up PD Gain slider some and see if it flies better.
@@uavtech cheers, ill give it a try
Im going to try to tune my 7inch with that video but I have a question before I start. How do I know if my master PID slider is to high or to low. You told that it depends on power to weight ratio but how do I see or feel that the slider is to high or to low? From my understanding this part is the most important before I keep going to tune the next step?
It is an iterative process. So you pump up to some to get to the general range - as discussed. Then get PD Balance squared.
Once PD balance is set, you can move up Master or PD gain slider till you get oscillations or motors start to get warm.
I think I got ya. Just to be sure. If I raise the PD Gain in the final step of tuning I just raise P & D. But if I want to have my quad flying more „stiffer“ for example I need to raise master slider because I don’t raise just P & D with master slider I also raise I and that’s what I want to have for this example?
Yeah. If the craft is fairly small - UNLIKE - the thumbnail image quad, then you don't need massive I-term. So in that case, maybe raise the Master a little, but for the rest raise just the PD Gain slider.
Alternatively, if a massive quad with two big 8S 3000mah batteries on it and a huge 1kg camera, more emphasis should be placed on Master.
UAV Tech Thank you very much for your help. I will give it a try.
This video would pertain to a 5'' build as well, correct? Your other videos are all about changing the numbers and starting at 40 with D, but his is the first I have seen that you exclusively use the sliders..
That filter setup is very conservative and will struggle in most propwash situations with a 5" setup; basically larger disc area setups can react a touch slower but benefit from more filtering, while 5" doesn't need as much filtering down low so you can get better immediacy (phase latency) in response
@@tehllama42 So then I would just move the sliders more to the right, correct?
cute conclusion :)
is there a toothpick twig tuning video in the pipe ?
Thanks. Sure, i can work something up.
So I just built a 7 inch I’m running the motor f55 pro with a f7 and the racerstar/tmotor air b 1498 Kv. I’m running the hq 7inch triblades and literally as soon as I arm it blasts off to the sky. So I lowered the p an d to try and help bad mistake it hovered and then dropped out the sky the motors were piping hot, needless to say I put it down until I figure something out please help I don’t want to ruin my quad and I don’t know what to do
It is a severe vibration issue. Focus your attention there. Props, props, props is the first place I would look, but not the last. I would use logging to help pinpoint.
You don’t think 6s is to much for that prop and kv
Can you like ESCs and motors?
How about a 1 kilo 7" on 2806.5 motors at ~45,000rpm? Dal 7056 props. General thoughts?
The ShenDrones Thicc was 1kg, 7". www.shendrones.com/hevithicc
The PD Balance was inverted. I think we ended up with P=77, Dmin=60, Dmax=110.
Tune at: quadstandardlabs.com/downloads-and-documents?fbclid=IwAR0Y5YokF6jMh6Xd5gSsqhH9l4Wnua1oHavLbiDR4AGtSqDQpboqODsLBZE
@@uavtech Thank you!! I loved the read, and I may end up near that tune. I'm going through your blackbox series again to refresh and I just need to give a day to tuning the big bastard.
Oh, and how does the thicc build come in so light with twice the electronics? am i missing something? mine was 1001g auw.
Why does feed forward slider need to be all the way at the bottom?
So you can isolate PD Balance without FF in the way. theuavtech.com/tuning
@@uavtech Oh ok, so assuming you bring it back afterward, how much would be too much?
For the Thicc? 2.0 would not be too much.
Where can i buy this frame? It looks super stiff.
shendrones.myshopify.com/products/thicc
@@noisy_boi_fpv_3920 Yeah i mean frame from 0:27. Its not shendrones frame.
i went to do this but i opend betaflight and now its stuck in russian?!?!? anybody know how to switch it back?
UAV Tech im wondering about setting the dynamic notch widtch to 0 and whether that is beneficial in my particular circumstance. That is completely doing away with the second notch filter entirely by setting that to zero so im just wondering why you suggest that? I know that will lower filter delay which helps with responsiveness but does that help with making the kwad fly smooth or would that make vibrations possibly worse? im asking cause i dont know myself so im wondering if you can teach me a lil something on the subject. By the way your video has been loads helpful in tuning my 10inch qav-r 2 xl check out my channel i got it set up with dji and it carries my insta360 one r once in a while or my insta360 go
It will compensate for the delay added by the RPM filters. However, notches are better than Lowpass filtesrs, so maybe try putting to 8 and seeing if you can increase the lowpass filter sliders.
Are those settings also good for a five inch kwad?
Which?
@@uavtech You're right my question wasn't clear enough. I will try again: If I follow your video and do all the tuning that you propose on my 5" kwad, will the tune be effecient for this size of kwad?
Yes. All quad size classes.
tiny.cc/pidtining
I noticed you use DSHOT 300 and 8k/4k in basically all your tuning videos, why's that? I usually see people using DSHOT600 and 8k/8k.
4k works fine. With higher logging rates, less jitter.
@@uavtech What about Dshot300? Why use that instead of 600?
Dshot 300 is at 4k rates, Dshot 600 at 8k rate.
This is the first time I‘m a little skeptical with your advice. With sugfested 1.0 Filters and PIDs at default there is a big chance of wild freakouts and this is not funny with a 10inch flying brick. From personal experience I would suggest starting at 0.8 in tge filters. What you got right is electrical. Even with carefully balanced 2 blades, electrical is a big thing in these rigs
Yeah, biggest one of those is the DTerm filtering - any P oscillations are going to become pretty obvious before getting off the ground, but the D driven ones are harder to deal with, and filtering that more is pretty low cost.
Photo with pro camera on 7" thing seems very complicated way how to trash 5000$ worth equipment :D Although thanks about tutorial. I feel that it may become handy.
I think i would learn it better if I send you my quad so you can tune it ( of course i will pay). So i can see the difference between what i think its good and whats really good. Lol. Good vid. I dont even know why i watch these tho
If interested: drive.google.com/file/d/1pyVjuLe0jbO2_7C1WHNMcAxFBTRdN8mn/view?usp=sharing
@@uavtech mine is a 5 inch. I was just interested on learning alittle. But im going to re watch the whole thing. I know you said its the same process with hardware and props being the most important. And then the filters and ect. I just had left most of mine on 3.5.7 with Bardwells filter setting and minor pid ajustments and it flys pretty good. No weird shakes on the hd feed or nothing but i do want to start the black box and i need to rewatch alot of your older videos so that i can get it better. Takes me a bit.
When do you add the Feedforward back in?
After pushing up PD Gain.
YIP props props props i almost lost my mind guess what it was the props not balanced