Diamond Pads for Polishing Concrete Countertops
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2013
- Confused by the many diamond pads marketed for polishing concrete countertops? Learn what's important to ensure a high quality finish on concrete with a long-lasting pad, and see how all of these features combine to create the ideal 5" diamond pad for polishing concrete countertops, designed and tested by Jeff Girard. Buy here: concretecountertopinstitute.c...
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We need these for the times I’m polishing concrete floors
very good information and compares well with what I have seen.
Thanks Merrimon!
Wow... thanks for the info you have made my work easy
You are very welcome Tony.
Hello Alexander. I don't fully understand your question, but I believe you are saying you use the sealer XS-327, and you've been doing concrete for 16 years, and you would like to know my sealer recommendation?
My personal recommendation is for either TK6 or Stonelok E3/2K from V-SEAL. There is more information if you go to my website - type the main address, then /sealers after that.
Thanks for the video and information.
Concrete Repairman LLC. You are very welcome!
+Saul HNJ Gracian (For some reason I am unable to reply to your comment. Here is the answer.) The diamond pads should work fine on pool plaster and the calcium buildup. Just be very careful when using the 50 grit because it might cut through the calcium too quickly.
+The Concrete Countertop Institute - Saul-HNJ Gracian Thanks! let you know how it goes, discs came in today plan to complete next week...
your Thoughts! I am a concrete contractor and I have lots of calcium build up on my pool plaster. I plan to drain pool and use the 50 grit to cut calcium and a bit of cream off the plaster 100 to polish(maybe 200), 7inch for the major surfaces and 3/4in on radius curves, should be about a solid day of cut and polish, I love your quality disc and I believe this would work well on plaster...I would be obliged to know what do think about my project, I am a little overconfident at times, tanks
Thank you so mutch
hola resido en costarica y estoy usando sealer xs-327 tengo de trabajar en concreto ase 16 años todo lo k tiene quever com concreto decorativo pero todos los sealer cemanchan quiero una recomendacion de ustedes grasias
I'm looking to try and test out an area of a bathroom with marble floors in a condo that I recently purchased. The floors are in decent shape just are very dull with some staining in a few areas. What grit might you recommend starting with?
Marble is a very different material from concrete (it is very soft), so I hesitate to recommend a specific grit, other than start with high grits to be on the safe side. Low grits such as 50 are very aggressive and can remove quite a lot of material quickly, even from concrete.
There are companies that specialize in floor restoration - using the services of a pro with experience in marble would be the safest bet.
CCI - I'm about to make some concrete countertops with the quikrete countertop mix. I plan on using the BR reactive sealer and use the CCI diamond wet discs. What grits do you recommend? I did a test piece and it seemed to come out pretty smooth and I have read that I shouldn't go over 400 grit if I'm using a sealer. Can I get away with using your 200 and 400 grit? what should I use to sand down the edge after using a slurry mix to fill in the voids? Thank you very much for your help.
+Chris Hansford That's great! You are correct, if you're using a coating sealer such as BR reactive polyurethane, you shouldn't go over 400 grit (for some sealers it's actually 200).
On the cast surface: If you are just trying to do a very light honing and not expose any sand grains, you can just use a 400 grit. If you want to take off the cream layer so you see the sand grains, you can use a 200 grit.
After slurrying/grouting: If there's not much grout on the surface, you can use a 400 grit. If there's more, you might need a 200 grit, but be cautious about taking off too much grout and re-exposing pinholes.
If you're just doing edges, use hand pads. For larger surfaces, use diamond discs.
+The Concrete Countertop Institute thank you very much!
+Chris Hansford You are very welcome!
Good video! In order to make a concrete countertop kind of shiny-smooth, how much grit at least I need to use? How many days after the pouring I need to wait before the polishing? I have used 400 grit diamond polishing pad on my newly poured countertop but it feels much coarser than a wood surface after being polished with a 400-grit sand paper. Is that normal or something went wrong?
Hi Daniel. 400 grit should produce a very smooth and somewhat shiny surface. If you are going to apply a coating sealer, do not progress past 400 grit, because the sealer will not adhere properly. You can usually stop at 200 grit. The sealer is really what gives the final appearance of the concrete, so it's pointless to polish to a shine and then apply a sealer that has a different sheen. The number of days to wait after pouring depends on the concrete, but basically the cement paste in between the sand grains needs to be hard enough to polish. A high quality concrete countertop mix with low water/cement ratio should need no more than 2 days. You can use a densifier after 200 grit to speed this up. You say you used a 400 grit diamond polishing pad, but you also say you used 400 grit sandpaper? Sandpaper does not contain diamonds and will not polish concrete countertops to a shine. Also, wet polishing works better (and allows you to apply a coating sealer) than dry polishing. Please visit our website for extensive free training on diamond pads and polishing here: concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training-category/diamond-pads/
Can you gave more information about the concrete polishing process
+Yolanda Saborio Sure! There is a 2-hour seminar on diamond polishing available on this page: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/diamonds/. This page has information about diamond polishers: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/diamond-polishers-for-concrete-countertops/. And this page is an index of information about the materials and tools involved in each step of the concrete countertop process: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-guide/
Hello! The thicker pads are less flexible, because they are better suited to use with heavier floor machines...so I've been told!
Also my slab was water cured for 7 days and covered for 21 after that, and has been densified.
Es bueno usar esos pasos y yo la lose el asunto es k no ablo inglés solo español gracias eres buen instructor
Ese proceso Delos vídeos que tiene ya lose lo que quiero es un buen sellador para sobres de cocina que no ce manchen gracias
Good Video, I am about to pour a bench top, I own a wet polisher with similar pads as the ones you reccomend (they look the same) and i have polished stone and concrete with them. The question with concrete, is how do i polish the concrete with out exposing of the aggregate in the concrete? with a standard piece of stone that is easy because it is the same all the way through, but with concrete if i go too far i will show stone, which i dont want.
So how do bring up the finish of the concrete to a high standard with out exposing stone?
I see you said something about starting at around 200 grit? could i start at 400? Also what is the trowel finishing technique with your benchs? is there any? or just pour the bench, and when dry polish then? thanks.
+Aaron James, it sounds like you want to make the cement cream finish shiny, or, possibly you are ok with exposing the sand grains but not the larger aggregate.
Polishing a cement cream finish is very challenging, because the layer of cement cream on the surface of the concrete is both very thin and relatively soft. It's very easy to cut through the layer, even with a 1500 grit diamond pad. So if this is what you want then I would recommend that you not polish at all, and rather burnish using Twister-like pads.
If you are OK with exposing only the sand grains (a "salt and pepper" look), then you can start with a 400 grit pad and proceed from there. When in doubt, always start with a grit finer than you think you need, since all you'll do is spend a bit of time and not removing too much material.
With precast concrete countertops, it's very common to cast them upside-down, so the finished surface of the countertop is cast against a mold. Usually no troweling is done as is common with cast-in-place. If you do want a troweled look with precast, you can cast right side up in the molds.
Dry polishing is a lot different from wet polishing, and the effectiveness and quality of the polished surface is dependent upon the age (and hardness) of the concrete, the quality of the dry diamond pads, and your skill and experience. I strongly suggest you practice if you're new to this, as it's easy to damage a piece of concrete if you're not proficient with dry polishing.
Finally, not all concrete needs to be polished (made shiny) to create a finish of a high standard. Polishing does not provide any protection against staining. If you're going to protect the concrete with a high-performance coating (like the new Buddy Rhodes reactive polyurethane sealer), you do NOT want to hone any finer than a 400 grit finish. Most sealers have a difficult time adhering to a shiny, smooth surface. Furthermore, the sealer dictates the final sheen of the concrete, so spending a lot of time polishing to a certain sheen is not necessary.
For more information, please see this page: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/diamonds/
+The Concrete Countertop Institute OK thanks for the info.
I am thinking i will pour it, strip the mould and give it a good trowel with high carbon steel float with a touch of water like with the garage floor slabs when very solid to get that high sheen, i hear the high carbon trowles deposit Carbon into the surface as you do it by adding a touch of water as troweling a close to cured slab.
And then maybe Dry buff/wet buff? and a seal? any thoughts? thanks for your video and time. Cheers! (id probably do your course, but i am in Aus, the concrete bench tops are getting popular, but most seem to be poured in site with delivered mixes, stripped moulds/form work and steel floated late.)
First of all, great videos. Wasn't thinking about a concrete counter top, but now I am! I have 1000sq feet of concrete floor that has been ground to 200 grit with a cup, its level, pretty smooth and just starting to expose stone. Can use your pads to take me up to a higher shine? Should I head for 800, or more? Where should I start? 200# 400#? How many sq feet would a pad do? I may plan on concrete counter tops for my camp also. Thanks a lot and nice web site.
666dynomax Hello! I am so sorry I missed your question on my diamond polishing video 4 months ago! UA-cam was not sending me notifications of comments. Please contact our office at info@concretecountertopinstitute.com, and we will be happy to assist you.
Great info! Can I use these pads with my random orbital sander? Or do I need to get an angle grinder backer with velcro or a polisher? Cheers!
Yes, you can use them with your 5" random orbital sander. We call that damp honing, and we have a video on that in this article: concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/surface-prep-concrete-countertop-sealer/
Bear in mind honing using a random orbital sander will be far less aggressive than using a dedicated wet polisher, but if you're just doing light honing work then it works great.
@@TheConcreteCountertopInstitute Awesome - thank you so much for the swift reply! Great website. This information is gold! Cheers!
Does the hook and loop side last for a long time? (Long time meaning 1,000 sqft) My experience with amazon bought pads are short term not due to the diamond side.
Yes, we have never had any issue with the hook and loop/Velcro over many years of use.
You should make a demonstration video of how to use it on concrete
Can do! Thanks for the suggestion
do you supply Australia and if so how long will it take to deliver
Hi Lemi, and thank you for your interest. We do supply worldwide and ship via UPS which has 1-3 day and 2-5 day options to Australia. Please email orders@concretecountertopinstitute.com for more information.
These will be good for the rough concrete wall or not if yes please provide me a link to buy in amazon
No, they are specifically designed for concrete countertops and are available only at concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/products-diamond-pads/
Hi, may I know where you bought the polishing pads?
sales@diamondtool.com.cn
I'm making it. Call me.
I have some rough spots, not many, in freshly poured top. What would be the recommendation for that ? Start higher 800? If I do 200 I am concerned I'd impact the good finish around. Is there a good rule of thumb ? How much water I need ?
Constantin Moisei Unfortunately you must polish the entire surface. Even a high grit like 800 will impact the surrounding surface. Which grit to start with depends on how rough the spots are. 800 grit is not going to smooth rough spots, but 200 might. But if they are really rough you might need 100 or even 50. Whichever grit you start with, you should progress higher step by step until you are satisfied with the finish. Be aware that if you plan to apply a coating sealer, you should stop at 200 grit because the sealer needs some texture to stick to.
Thanks a lot, I might have been misunderstood.
I don't want to expose the aggregate, and I don't want to cut too much as this is indoor in a finished area so I don't need any mess. Can't mess the area :-)
Here's the process I was planning to do.
1. Wait 7 days to wet cure it, sprayed it everyday and covered with thing plastic sheeting (Day 3 right now)
2. Day 8 - 50/100/200 polish with a diamond hand pad only on rough surfaces, the grit used will be base how rough the area
3. Apply slurry to cover all the bug holes and uneven areas
* I will hand massage the slurry in, squeege it out and lightly wipe it off with a wet sponge just before starting to set
* (should I steel trowel the slurry to even out?)
4.Let it dry and lightly sand the edges, remove forms (z-forms and sink), remove any debris. Wet sponge it and shop vac cleanup. * I do this because I have couple of low spots by the edge of the zform and I want to use the forms as a level reference
5. Appy few coats of sealant to penetrate (is this the right time or lightly go 200 over the whole surface then seal it all?)
6.(400?) 800-1000-1500-3000 wet grinder diamond pad polish on all the surface - need to see how I contain the water mess (indoor slab)
7. Use a cut compound to polish it more (Should I do this after 1500? If I do this should I skip 3000 ?)
I have a corner that I have to manual I assume I need hand pads for that.
Oh, I forgot, I saw someone seal the concrete after lower grit then seal it then continue to with higher grits. Any idea about that approach ?
I won't mind if you'd point all the flaws in the steps above.
Great videos/explanation! Subscribed!
Hi Constantin. I'm sorry for the delay in replying to you. This is a very involved question, so can you please email info@concretecountertopinstitute.com so that we can get your email address and assist you that way?
Any recommendations for a 5" electric sander? They usually have dust collection which would seem to suck in water, not good.
Please see this page: concretecountertopinstitute.com/diamond-polishers-for-concrete-countertops/
I assumed since these pass don't have the vaccum holes in place and majority of the pad is rubber backed water shouldn't be a big issue even for an orbital sander, just be careful not to wet the electrical parts
Where can we find these pads? are they sold in store?
Yes, you can buy them here: concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/products-diamond-pads/
Would you use the same CCI diamond pads if you were removing old sealer and preparing for new sealer? If yes, which grit should I buy? Thanks.
+Kay Christian It depends on the sealer. Most coatings I've used should be removed using paint stripper. There are a few coatings that must be ground off. Consult the manufacturer to determine the best removal method, and be sure to use proper safety equipment.
Once a coating is completely removed, and you are left with bare concrete, the surface preparation will often be the same that you would do if you were applying the new sealer to new concrete.
Once you get to bare concrete: Most coatings require that the concrete be no smoother than 200 grit, so that the concrete has some "tooth" for the sealer to bond to. In that case, you could use a 200 grit pad to make sure that the surface texture is correct.
However, be aware that some sealing systems involve a penetrating treatment that physically alters the concrete itself. In that case, it might be necessary to grind down into the concrete to remove the top few milimeters that the treatment affected. Depending on the concrete, this could require a turbo cup followed by 50, then 100, then 200 grit. Be aware that this will likely affect the appearance of the concrete by exposing aggregate inside the concrete, and also opening up pinholes which you will then need to grout and hone.
+The Concrete Countertop Institute
I was thinking of using the Stone Lok product. Is that considered a "penetrating sealer?" I watched the video on how to spray using the HVLP spray gun. Any tips for spraying counters already installed in the kitchen? Mine have a 4 inch back splash made of concrete "tiles." In your article on applying stone lok sealer, you mention a OS/WTM prewash. Is that sold along with the Stone Lok sealer? Thanks so much.
+Kay Christian Be sure to visit the page www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/sealers/ for a lot more information about sealers and Stonelok. It is a high performance epoxy and urethane coating, and kit includes thw OSW prewash. I do not recommend spraying inside a house. It is possible to roll on Stonelok, but it will not give an even finish. Stonelok is a pro level finish that takes practice and skill to master. If you can wait until the week of October 19, I will have information on the website about a new, high performance, less expensive, much easier to use sealer.
+The Concrete Countertop Institute I will check back in the 19th. Will it be available for purchase around that time too? Thanks!
Jeff, is BR Reactive Polyurethane Sealer, the new one you were referring to?
Please i where I will buy them ?I’m from Morocco
Thank you for your interest. We ship worldwide through our online store. Please see www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/diamond-pads-2/.
Can I buy these in the UK?
Yes! Please contact Designer Concrete Supplies, Email: info@designerconcretesupplies.co.uk, Phone: 07807 040783
So where do I purchase these fine pads?
www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/diamond-pads-2/
@@TheConcreteCountertopInstitute Hello I went to the site but noticed that after 400 grit you dont have 800, 1500 but jump to 3000
@@moisesfrias1117 Correct, we no longer carry the higher grits but still have a few 3000 grit on clearance sale.
What brand are the good diamond disc?
You can use Ruite for testing and we won't let you disappoint.
you also can test our polishing pads, very competitive price. sales@diamondtool.com.cn
I made a 1.5"x 27" x 67" solid countertop in a form upside-down using concrete from Z-counterforms, which says it does not need any rebar or fiberglass. The instructions say 48 to 72 hours cure covered in plastic. I let mine cure for 6 days. Then 2 days outside the mold on a flat table, good side up. Then I began wet sanding with 50 grit and 100 grit pads just like shown in the video. The next day the ends of the countertop curled up about 1/4" each side and the slab is no longer flat. Maybe I used too much water for the sanding process and this somehow caused it to curl, but I'm scouring the Internet to find the answer as to why this happened.
Curling is caused by poor curing and storage conditions. When one side of a concrete slab is allowed to dry out while the other side remains moist (or is moister), the concrete will tend to shrink towards the dry side. Concrete continues to cure for many days, long after it's been demolded and processed. The curing process is fast in the beginning, fast enough to make the concrete strong enough to demold and process, but it does continue, asymptotically. It is possible that the curling started during the 2 days the concrete was flat on a table, if it stayed moist on the underside and dry on the top. Concrete slabs should always be stored either on edge or elevated on foam blocks to allow air circulation all around the slabs. Curling could be caused by mix designs that are shrinkage prone, but Z-Counterforms is a good mix, so it's unlikely the curling was caused by the mix. You can try weighting the ends of the slab with very heavy weights, but I can't guarantee that will flatten the slab.
Have to keep it soaking wet for 7 days minimum while curing
When you don’t use a curing polymer, you’re exactly right.
سلام من میخوام دور سوله را که تا ۸۰سانت صاب بزنم از کجا بخرم اگر دوستی میدون راهنماییم کن که از بتن صاف در نیامد صاحب کار صاف میخواد قالب ها تاب داشتن صاف در نیامد
ممنون میشم کس راهنمایی کن❤❤❤❤❤
how do I get the tools
Please visit www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/diamond-pads-2/
I need a pad how can I get
concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/for-pros/products-diamond-pads/
Interesante... subtitulo en castellano para subscriptores de Peru..
can you use these pads dry?
I was thinking of using them on an orbital sander, hook and loop.
No, they are for wet use only. We strongly prefer wet polishing, especially given this: concretecountertopinstitute.com/free-training/surface-prep-omega-concrete-countertop-sealer/
What is price per piece
Please see concretecountertopinstitute.com/shop/diamond-polishing-pads-for-concrete-countertops/
This dude works at the blackjack table as a dealer
mua đầu soi này o đâu vay
The diamond pads are available for purchase here: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/products/diamond-pads-2/
greetings, would be a good idea to consider having someone to translate to Spanish ... many are interested and appreciative of your videos but we would like to take the training ... I think a great opportunity for you as well as for Latinos who want to learn and work...USING TRANSLATOR..THANK YOU AND BLESS
+JULIAN SANTOS That is a very good point, Julian. We would like to have everything translated to Spanish, it's just a matter of dedicating the time and money to the project.
I know just do not forget that recommendation because it will be a great blessing for you. Many of us want to take their course ... thanks for answering humility ... blessed...nos gustaría saber si los cursos son online o donde tendríamos que ir
+JULIAN SANTOS
Usted puede encontrar los cursos en línea aquí: www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/self-study-level-1-2-3/ y www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/online-training/. Unfortunately, they are all in English... at this time. :-)
te agradezco y recibe nuestra bendicion!!
هل في منها بالسعودية؟
We do not have hands-on training in Saudi Arabia, but we do offer a wide variety of online training here:
www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/self-study-training/self-study-level-1-2-3/
www.concretecountertopinstitute.com/product-category/self-study-training/online-seminars/
GFRC materials such as AR glass fibers and polymer are widely used in Saudi Arabia, so sourcing materials should not be a problem.
Funny how all the competitors are used and beat down. The colors on advertised is exactly how the pristine brand new color is
A 10 minute video and you never demonstrate the pads in use, lol.
The idea was to explain why they’re better; if you’ve used pads like this in the past, you’ve seen them in use. Ours are competitively priced, and will work far better. Try them and see if you’re in this craft! They’re designed for use on concrete countertops, as opposed to granite or other stone.