Thanks for the Video, I'm just getting into sorting the front end of my cart, and this has been very useful, as are both yours and Steve's other build videos.
There has been a lot of discussion about this and, while it is best practice to incorporate all known geometries to cycle karts, the consensus is that Ackerman isn’t the end-all. Since everything is a compromise, with their light front ends and their tendency to understeer it isn’t the biggest difference you can make. I’m no pro but hope that helps.
You can experiment to improve handling by putting steel cable tie rods, one cable pulls to steer and the other will be a bit lose, free to make a wider turn, when one goes around the corner one wheel has a wider circle than the other.
I have seen wooden frames and some cars had wooden frames, even race cars. Some things to consider: Find the straightest grain that runs the full length of the board you can. The tighter the grain the better but full length pattern is most important. Laminating plywood is also an option for a stepped frame. Also, the Stevenson formula suggestion of building a 1/4” to 3/8” plywood box for the body foundation is more than for simplicity. It adds rigidity against twist and supports the frame as a massive cross member, shortening the moment of bending. The flex of most materials is not always a negative. It prevents damage. Bolt stiff isn’t best IMO. Go for it!
@@836dmar thanx. I was thinking of making the frame out of white or red oak. Cedar or Locust. I know Locust is the strongest wood but I dont want to sharpen and/or change out the saw blade at every other cut. By doing this the cart would be lighter and the overall cost lower. The rear axle set up and wheels are the most expensive. I plan on using an old Briggs and Stratton from a garden digger. Also instead of copying an old racer body. I was going to use the long hood, grill and side panels of an old ford 8N tractor. Or maybe a Jubilee. We'll be riding on an old cattle farm anyways. Cheers.
Ackerman angle you forgot your Ackerman angle.
I am curious why you chose not to include the Ackerman angle when redoing the steering arms on your spindles?
Nice job Dennis. So glad that solved the issues.
Thanks for the Video, I'm just getting into sorting the front end of my cart, and this has been very useful, as are both yours and Steve's other build videos.
Hi Dennis,
Good job ! Thanks you for sharing
Thankyou ive been hoping for a new video from you dennis for awhile now 👍👍👍
hey, I'm also making a cyclekart but using makeshift tools, . I'll see when it's finished hehehe greetings Indonesia
Always upgrades to make and this one accomplished very well.
Ever thought about acquiring an electric ratchet? Love mine.
The new spindles look to be beefier than the previous units, the new geometry should improve high speed handling.
I would like to buy one of these jewels, is it for sale?
Why redo the front end and keep this weird akerman setting?,,,
Parabéns show de bola
Start 20:10
😍
What about Ackerman ? Your Steering Arm is no where near Ackerman.
There has been a lot of discussion about this and, while it is best practice to incorporate all known geometries to cycle karts, the consensus is that Ackerman isn’t the end-all. Since everything is a compromise, with their light front ends and their tendency to understeer it isn’t the biggest difference you can make. I’m no pro but hope that helps.
All respect to Dennis Thomas :)
You can experiment to improve handling by putting steel cable tie rods, one cable pulls to steer and the other will be a bit lose, free to make a wider turn, when one goes around the corner one wheel has a wider circle than the other.
Has anyone used wooden 2x4s for the frame instead of steal? I dont have a welder.
I have seen wooden frames and some cars had wooden frames, even race cars. Some things to consider: Find the straightest grain that runs the full length of the board you can. The tighter the grain the better but full length pattern is most important. Laminating plywood is also an option for a stepped frame. Also, the Stevenson formula suggestion of building a 1/4” to 3/8” plywood box for the body foundation is more than for simplicity. It adds rigidity against twist and supports the frame as a massive cross member, shortening the moment of bending. The flex of most materials is not always a negative. It prevents damage. Bolt stiff isn’t best IMO. Go for it!
@@836dmar thanx. I was thinking of making the frame out of white or red oak. Cedar or Locust. I know Locust is the strongest wood but I dont want to sharpen and/or change out the saw blade at every other cut. By doing this the cart would be lighter and the overall cost lower. The rear axle set up and wheels are the most expensive. I plan on using an old Briggs and Stratton from a garden digger. Also instead of copying an old racer body. I was going to use the long hood, grill and side panels of an old ford 8N tractor. Or maybe a Jubilee. We'll be riding on an old cattle farm anyways. Cheers.