Because they are too old to build, It takes 3 cores to make one good one and requires almost as much machining and labor than its worth to make one last. Not only that they are not just laying in the junkyard anymore. Electronic transmissions imo seem to be much better in every way and is our sole focus now than cable driven transmissions. @@salimsopari
I used to assemble these transmissions at the Three Rivers Hydra-Matic plant in the 80's then became a main assembly line repairman. I used to be able to put one together internally all the way in 15 minutes. I could assemble them in my sleep lol. Too bad you don't have the tools we used to assemble them. I could give you a few tips to make your assemble easier and faster. Enjoyed the video.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm about to do my 1st trans build using all the upgraded billet goodies. I've watched 1000000 videos and have the a book but your video is one of the beat resources I've found yet. I definitely appreciate the time you took to do this for us.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions hey I was wondering if you can make a video on how to change the shift mechanism on a 200 metric hydramatic transmission, because mines don't have park just reverse, neutra, and drive
Great video, with GM had sold probably 10+ million of these units in the 80s, I'm shocked more information isn't available. Basically nothing on line or on UA-cam. I have an 84 Olds Delta 88 Diesel with this transmission and a few other GM big body cars. So far no transmission issues, but I'll save this video for future reference. Thank you for making this video!! Freddy in Arkansas.
Thanks for the video! I’m getting ready to reassemble mine! Den getting all the upgrades and section built over the past 8 months, posting individual videos on each but thanks for the full length assembly process.
They came in a Grand National, the baddest ass car ever. I have a Grand National with full billet build from Dave Husek. These transmission have ran into 8 with the stock block v6.
David is great. Bought all my parts from him for my build. The guy has a wealth of knowledge. He encourages anyone to call him with questions 5162851103
Enjoyed this one too Sir! Thanks again for doing these. I am about to tackle a RE5RO5A Nissan. It suffered from coolant entering the transmission from a faulty cooler in the radiator. We are getting a brand new valve body and then a basic clean up and rebuild of the rest of the unit. The videos really help believe it or not to put me in the right frame of mind for a rebuild. Thanks!
excellent video.THANK YOU..i am about to build mine (with the help of my sons). Of which their homework PRIOR to the build is to watch this video!!! It will certainly help ME as I explain to them the inner workings as I build it.
I believe there is a special tool to help install the direct clutch drum assembly into the case. It’s tool # J-29337. I’ve never rebuilt a 200-4R, but this video has given me the push I needed to rebuild the one in my 87’ Monte Carlo SS. Great video!
Do you have a part number for the output shaft support tool? I just picked one up on Ebay and there's no possible way for it to bolt up to my transmission. The one I have is a Kent Moore J-25013-5. The one in the video looks totally different from whatever it is I got off Ebay.
Love this video thank you a million, about the tape on the spline with the vise grips , maybe try a short piece of hose , I use hose in similar applications, to protect threads, just a thought, thanks again
Very thorough video. I had a 2004R installed in my 72 Pontiac Ventura. Ever since the swap, the speedo doesn’t work in drive. If I slip it to Neutral while coasting, the speedo needle starts moving. What would cause this? BTW, the 2004R has been in there for 20 years and works great to date.
I've built a lot of transmissions over the years and getting ready to build a 200-4R for my '70 GTO and I'm wondering why you're dry clutching and not soaking them? I was trained to soak the compositions before building the clutch packs. Just curious. Anyways, this is the only video I've seen on a complete rebuild for this transmission, great video.
Soaking is more of an old school technique before dynos and better quality clutches. You can more accurately measure clearances and Drag dry. They get plenty soaked when we run them in easy on a dyno. We install ALL clutches dry and todays friction materials make it perfectly safe to do so.
Definitely a great video, i have a 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood with the THM200-4r, it's a great transmission for sure. If you don't mind me asking, where do you find the TCC solenoid and pressure switch for 4th gear? The OBD is signaling a TCC engagement problem and i would assume it would have been either one of the two components or both. Just about nobody online carries OEM pressure switch. Or is that irrelevant? Maybe an aftermarket one would work? Thanks in advance.
Any major transmission parts retailer should have one. A quick google search will net you several results. You wont find oem with a 200. They are too old and obsolete. Parts will discontinue in the near future
Super informative video. I have one question though. Based on all of the GM disassembly diagrams I've seen it looks like you're putting the wave plate in before the low/rev clutch set instead of after like it indicates in all the diagrams. Is this the right way to do it and if so, why?
Every core ive ever taken apart has the frictions set up the way im doing it in the video. I am not sure if your reading the diagram wrong but take apart any gm 2004R core and youll see. Even if i am wrong, what i am doing certainly works as ive been building the 2004R for many years up to 1200whp in a few g bodys and some retro fit blown trucks. in the grand scheme of things i have seen the sharp apply crown in the low piston is more effective with a thick steel rather than a wave because eventually it makes a thin mark on the frictions over time whereas my way it doesnt happen ever and it has a much less agressive apply.
I have an 85 Grand national myself with our level 2 2004R and a FTI 2800 single billet and the combo is perfect on 22lbs of boost. 2004R is king when built!!
i dont mean to sound rude but i dont have the time to make a list like that for my engine. as for a trans you can find all the pecs at www.performabuilt.com
Low/reverse clutch. You put the wave washer in before the rest of the clutch pack and friction plates. My trans had the wave washer going in last next to the retainer ring clip. All 200 r4 diagrams has it assembled like mine and disassemble in that order. Can that wave friction plate be installed at either end (front or back) ?
I have a question for a real pro. I have a stock 200r4 in operable condition. I have a bucket of new parts. Stage 1 clutches, new steels, a big list of aftermarket hard parts including the input shaft, overdrive planetaries, stator, sun shell, forward drum, center support. Probably good for 600 horsepower. HOWEVER, I'm more concerned with this. With this combination of new hardened parts, would you feel comfortable pulling a 6000LB trailer with this transmission behind a mild 350 buick engine? Or should I just sell everything and get a 4L80 and an aftermarket computer brain?
Your parts list is good and i would be confident if it was built properly in aspects of hydraulics which are much more important than hardparts 75% of the time on most builds. The problem where my advice falls short of advisory is... the 2004R is a very challenging trans to modify hydraulically and even build in general. I unfortunately dont know your skill set with it or experience so my advice is hardparts are half the battle with this trans and a simple off the shelf shift kit wont give the results you seek. I personally only know 4 people that are able to do it accurately in the entire country and actually understand it (myself included) (We no longer offer them as cores are very hard to get in good shape). If you want a challenge thats very rewarding and capable with better ratios and no modification to the vehicle... the 2004R is for you.... if you want a much easier build with an off the shelf shift kit (if doing yourself) and to purchase supporting parts and adapters and would rather have longer (workhorse) ratios with much more lag but a ton more strength then the 4L80 is for you. Understanding hydraulics, pressures, volumes, and surface areas with how they correlate with each other in the bigger picture is what 75% of a proper built trans is and my advice is study a little and tackle whichever sounds more appealing to you.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I really appreciate you getting back to me. I have a decent understanding of how an auto trans works. I built one once... and smoked it in ten miles because I had a check ball in the wrong spot. But at least I know enough to understand the principle. It's gonna be in a daily driver that regularly sees loads in excess of 4000 pounds net payload and many many 12 hour trips. Currently rocking a TH350 and 3.08 gears but Id like to change that a little. I love the ratios the 200r4 has to offer but if towing in overdrive is a hard negative regardless of upgrades, then I'll probably source a 4L80 and one of those carburetor conversion kits. I'm willing to pay to make this trans work for me if its possible, and I have 99% of the parts. It's hard to find a builder.
Great video. After watching it, I opted to rebuild the 200 4R that is going in our El Camino in place of the TH 350C instead of paying a local shop the $1,500+ they wanted to do it. I noticed that when you installed the 3-4 accumulator, you put the piston in and then the spring on top. In the GM shop manual, the illustration shows it the other way around where the spring is on the bottom and the piston is on the top (which is how I just put mine back together). Is there any difference in performance of the 3-4 accumulator between spring on the bottom/spring on the top? Just wanted to check since getting the 3-4 accumulator wrong can have a significant impact on the life expectancy of the case! BTW, a Kent Moore J-28542 tool will make removing and installing the lower reverse clutch much easier, as well as helping line up the oil hole so it sits right in the middle of the new rubber seal that gets pressed in from the valve body side of the case.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so I did a bit more research on this and diagrams in the GM 200 4R shop manual (200-4R 17 disassembly and 200-4R 229 Assembly) definitely show the spring on the bottom and piston on the top so it is difficult to misread them. In the Haynes GM automatic transmission overhaul Techbook, their 200 4R assembly photo (8A.225 on page 8A-32) shows the 3-4 spring in first and piston on top too. The comment below the assembly photo in the Haynes manual reads "on some models, the piston is installed first, cupped side up, then the spring." So it appears that the order of the 3-4 accumulator spring and piston is different between different models of 200-4R. Mine is an 'OG' model, originally out of an '85 Oldsmobile with a 307. The control valve body is also marked with "OG" in white paint. So you may have to pay attention to the order of the 3-4 spring and piston during teardown or figure out what order they were in based on the pattern of the wear marks on the underside of the spacer plate (which is what I used as the spring makes a different wear pattern compared to the top of the piston).
most likely too much tv pressure or too stiff of a boost valve spring. first check your tv cable tension on the plunger in the pan. if that checks out Trim the TV plunger spring or install a smaller boost valve or lighter spring in the pump boost valve is my best guess
good morning friend, I would like to ask you a question to see if you can help me, currently I was able to rebuild my transmission th200-4r and everything is perfect but I have a small doubt, in your video at minute 1:59:34, what you move there is the valve that actuates the overdrive wire, correct? That's my doubt. In my valve body I press that valve and it's as if it doesn't have tension, but as I keep pressing it starts to have tension. My real doubt and question is the following: is that valve like that? Soft at first and with more tension as you keep pushing it? or it will be my valve that is defective. I would appreciate your answer and your comment. greetings
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you very much for your answer and your time. Yesterday I went to a hydromatic workshop and I was able to check several transmissions and indeed they are all like this.
I have a issue with my t200 that I can't get reverse anymore after a low fluid situation. I topped off the fluid. Went to back up . Then it backed up for a minute and stopped and made a clicking sound. Goes into foward and now I have no reverse.
Hi, i just want to comment one thing when installing youre reverse/forward low planteraries. I noticed the planetaries where installed without checking position of the oil hole on planetaries in reguards to feed hole in the axle? If one doesnt check this there will be no lubrication from the axle to planetaries and bearing..?
Not rly how it works. Lube sprays into the planets all over through the feed hole in the shaft, theres no fixed lube holes in the planets. Maybe im misunderstanding but ive never heard of that before and it hasnt affected all the 200s we have built
A 200r4 was the second transmission I ever done. It is not an easy transmission like a th350 or c6. Anyone thinking of it needs a good book and watch this video as you're doing it. It is a bitch of a transmission. You need two tools or your life is gonna suck. Lol great video.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions can you go over some of the performance upgrades these little turds need to survive with some horsepower and torque? I rebuilt a nice th400 with some good parts in it, but I want overdrive. I was wondering if you can do a constant line pressure on these and do away with the TV cable.
If you would like to view our parts list it is listed in black and white on our website except hydraulics and exclusive Performabuilt modifications, but no i wont go into anymore detail than the video i have provided on our youtube about the 700R4 as that is why i am in business and most are not. I simply show the basics and what not to do / to do to make most work for the general audience trying to do their own and to give a small idea to what our offers. I could do constant line but there is a trade off to very hard shifts even at part throttle which decreases the longevity of the transmission greatly and is very stressful on the hardparts. Most people do not understand it is not a good idea and not good for anything but strictly the drag strip but i am willing to do it as long as you understand the transmissions time is on borrowed time. I highly recommend you just take 15 minutes of your time to set the TV cable properly and i even have a video demonstrating hiow to do so. If you do any reading about us at all you will have your answer that we make the 700R4 and the 4l60E last longer and perform better than anyone else and thats all that should matter because what i do to them to make them work is not something i am ever going to discuss with the public.
Thanks for information. We have this gearbox 200-4r and it works great but the reverse stoped working. The wheels are turning when its in the air and with a clicking noise from gearbox but without any power, you can stop the wheel with your hands. Any idea? Can we buy a overhaul kit from you ?
we do not sell parts and discontinued the 2004R as the Parts are too hard to come by and the cases are too old to build into. Often the reverse section burns up due to the piston over extending, tear it down and rebuild, there is no quick fix.
I just picked up a 200r4 to rebuild to put into my 1972 Lemans. What special tools will I need to get this done? I see a need for the bench rotate bracket, as that will make it much easier. Also, other than a master kit, it looks like I should buy a drum and a hardened input shaft. What else do you recommend getting? ie, what wears out, and what should be replaced anyways because there are better options.
One more question, can you build a stout FWD transmission for the 3800 series II/III powered? Mine can handle about 350hp, but I want to put in a turbo charger and get that POS SC out and make some serious power.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions Understood. Just wonder who built the one for twin turbo 3800 that ran 8.65 @ 158. Anyway if I decide to put a 3800 series II/ III in my Grand National I know who to buy the 4l60 from.
Dose the 200r4 have a modular vacume line ? And if not I just rebuilt my 305 small block and there is a vacucume leak where the vacume line pugs In The manifold size I’m asking if the 200r4 done have one can I just plug it
My 200 4r has the torque converter lockup switch on the accumulator housing rather than the valve body. I wonder what the difference is in the lockup timing.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions The bulge or boss on the housing is tapped and drilled . There is a 62 psi pressure switch installed instead of the valve body switch. posted a video of it on my channel, from a year ago just now putting the trans back together. Your video was very helpful, especially the part about installing the center support, took me about an hour to fit it. ua-cam.com/video/Wq9hpancFe0/v-deo.html
PerformaBuilt Transmissions that’s what I thought but someone said it was purely for building pressure. While volume and pressure are proportional, I’ve also heard of oil pumps that are pressure pumps and not necessarily volume. If that makes sense. Anyway, great uploads and I’d much rather build an engine after it’s been machined than a transmission. After watching this.
I dont remember tbh i discontinued the 2004r years and years ago. This is one of the last ones ive ever built. Typically you just count the teeth across and there should be a speedo chart for them on google
we do not, we removed it yesterday because the parts take too long to get and the cores are getting so old the cases and components have become unusable
No. I am picking up 2 of them tomorrow. Going in my 69 Corvette. Wanting to go 9s in the quarter with nitrous, and driven cross country. I'd better get very familiar with this trans. Glad I will be getting a backup. Thanks for the very informative video
Quick question- you mention that if you bypass the accumulators that you’ll break the trans in 2. I’m getting ready to install a TCI full manual VB and that totally eliminates the accumulators and Chis at CK sell an accumulator eliminator kit indicating it helps , “correct the hydraulics”. So is your statement of breaking it in2 only based on you VB calibration? Everyone has opinions and preferences and that’s fine and each build is different, I’m more interested in why the breakage might happen so I can avoid potential issues. Thanks in advance!
CK is Great specialist and his kit is the proper way to do it. Simply flipping the piston like other transmissions to bypass is a big no on the 2004R, it is capable of snapping off the bell if not done properly with hydraulic mods. Great question!
Everything I always wanted to know, on rebuilding this transmission . The correct way. Because I have one I will be taking to get rebuilt. Good video subcribed now to your channel.
carr7640 I’ve got one I’m taking to get built as well, but I’m paranoid that they’ll mess it up due to lack of experience with the 200. I’ve never been so damn stressed over a transmission in my life!
I have a question to get to the pump and clutches is it possible to do it with the oil pan on without messing with any of that or do you have to remove all those parts first to get to the pump clutches and so on?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions ok so im trying to get to the spring retainer what parts besides the tcc whould i have to remove ? Thanks for the fast reply 🙏
Your trying to get to the valves in the pump? The boost valve and PR valve? Or the tcc valve? If so you can indeed remove the pan and directly access these even in the vehicle with a good set of snapring pliers and some dexterity
all you do is remove the 15mm nut on the inside, slide the shaft out, pry the seal out with a flathead and install the new seal. Any basic repair manual will show you how if you need a visual.
yes we discontinued them about a month ago. Parts take too long to get and the cores/Cases are starting to become unusable. The remaining cores we have we are keeping incase we have any warranties we need to honor.
Either your governor or tv cable are misadjusted or you installed the lip seals wrong on the servo. Those are the most common but if your not experienced with the 2004R and made an uncommon mistake i would have alot of trouble pin poiting your problem.
Its the big round set of pistons on the side of the case secured with the snap ring. If your rebuilding a Trans especially the 2004R you should read a little bit about the major components like the servo. It is very hard for me to help if you dont know a little about the trans you rebuilt.
2095.00 shipped. but we do not recommend it for beating or if you have a heavy vehicle. It is a street cruiser/ dailydriver transmission ONLY for the average 3600lb vehicle. The level 2 is for beating. build specs are available at www.performabuilt.com except hydraulic modifications.
Are you guys still selling the 2004r? I have a sponsored build for pikes peak and would love to use your trans, but can't seem to find it on your site.
You know this is a pretty good video but why would you tell us how to do everything except the most important things. Can show any modifications you've done to anything. Thats the whole damn point. Screw these videos
Wouldnt be in buisness if i did. You want modification advice then buy a book and learn lol. Builders do videos for basic rebuilds not to just give their business away... use your common sense.
No because they are too old and useless with a governor to get to work with any kind of boost or power adder in todays racing world. Governor cant keep up with any boost. Why would i do a video if ive discontinued? Tell you what... i will do a video on dumb comments next starting with yours. Have a nice rest of your week and stay tuned 😉
I'm just frustrated because I need to rebuild one. I have no other option with money i have and its for my dads car. Nobody rebuilds them anymore. I don't need it to handle a power adder. I just need to be a step up from stock. It's loosing 1st gear. I understand where your coming from. But if someone tried to rebuild one from your video it's only gonna get them so far. And you discontinued it so thats why I said why not do a whole video so people can still rebuild them the right way when there's no business of yours to be took because you don't offer it anymore. Not trying to be an ass. I appreciate your video it just left me with questions still. I will buy a manual if it will tell me what I need to know. I dont like asking people but I was hoping that this time I really need it I could find some good info. Sorry, thank you for your time. You did good work on the video of what you did show!
Use the largest 700R4 boost valve in the 200 4R pump. Take the pump and direct drum and all apply plates to a machine shop and get them all machined flat (cant stress how important that is) use a 10 or 13 4l60e 700r4 pump rotor in the 200 4R pump. Use clutch counts and wide band in video with .040 band clearance and .020 clutch clearance. Set end play to .005 to .010. Service it fluid and filter every single year and never let it get above 190 degrees. That will hold about 500 hp with very little money.
We have discontinued the 200-4R ***** Phone number 888-744-6542 or visit www.performabuilt.com
to order an alternate transmission.
Why? No demand? Parts availability? Too much of a pain in the ass?
Parts availability and they are just too old to build. It takes 3 cores to build 1 good one anymore@@trlprk
i need a 200-4r for my 64 impala, why did you discontinue it??
Because they are too old to build, It takes 3 cores to make one good one and requires almost as much machining and labor than its worth to make one last. Not only that they are not just laying in the junkyard anymore. Electronic transmissions imo seem to be much better in every way and is our sole focus now than cable driven transmissions. @@salimsopari
I used to assemble these transmissions at the Three Rivers Hydra-Matic plant in the 80's then became a main assembly line repairman. I used to be able to put one together internally all the way in 15 minutes. I could assemble them in my sleep lol. Too bad you don't have the tools we used to assemble them. I could give you a few tips to make your assemble easier and faster. Enjoyed the video.
Make a video!
Thanks for sharing this.
I'm about to do my 1st trans build using all the upgraded billet goodies.
I've watched 1000000 videos and have the a book but your video is one of the beat resources I've found yet.
I definitely appreciate the time you took to do this for us.
Probably the best, most detailed video on the internet!!! Thank you!!!
Your Welcome
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions hey I was wondering if you can make a video on how to change the shift mechanism on a 200 metric hydramatic transmission, because mines don't have park just reverse, neutra, and drive
Great video, with GM had sold probably 10+ million of these units in the 80s, I'm shocked more information isn't available. Basically nothing on line or on UA-cam.
I have an 84 Olds Delta 88 Diesel with this transmission and a few other GM big body cars. So far no transmission issues, but I'll save this video for future reference.
Thank you for making this video!!
Freddy in Arkansas.
Your welcome Freddy. I was shocked after a few searches to not find a video myself so i figured i would make one lol.
Thanks for the video! I’m getting ready to reassemble mine! Den getting all the upgrades and section built over the past 8 months, posting individual videos on each but thanks for the full length assembly process.
Only video for 200r4 in UA-cam. Thank you bro👏🏻
I Know isnt that Crazy!
Never mind I’m 2 hours away from you guys and will be in touch soon great video 👍🏻
They came in a Grand National, the baddest ass car ever. I have a Grand National with full billet build from Dave Husek. These transmission have ran into 8 with the stock block v6.
David is great. Bought all my parts from him for my build. The guy has a wealth of knowledge. He encourages anyone to call him with questions 5162851103
200R4 was built well into 1989. The Turbo TA used the 3.8 turbo engine and a 200R4.
Enjoyed this one too Sir! Thanks again for doing these. I am about to tackle a RE5RO5A Nissan. It suffered from coolant entering the transmission from a faulty cooler in the radiator. We are getting a brand new valve body and then a basic clean up and rebuild of the rest of the unit. The videos really help believe it or not to put me in the right frame of mind for a rebuild. Thanks!
How did that tranny turn out? I have the VK45DE engine to 91X78 tranny. Which is early M45/Q45 models. This is the same as 5RO5 series.
excellent video.THANK YOU..i am about to build mine (with the help of my sons). Of which their homework PRIOR to the build is to watch this video!!! It will certainly help ME as I explain to them the inner workings as I build it.
2004R is a hard but fun tedious trans. I hope your sons enjoy this project!
Great job I have been looking for a video on this transmission.
I believe there is a special tool to help install the direct clutch drum assembly into the case. It’s tool # J-29337. I’ve never rebuilt a 200-4R, but this video has given me the push I needed to rebuild the one in my 87’ Monte Carlo SS. Great video!
I am going to check this out because i dont like the way i have been doing it. Thank you for the part number!
I’ve seen a few on E-bay. If you do end up getting one, I’d like to know how exactly it holds the drum.
You might also want to check out this part # J-28542 to install the low reverse drum.
Do you have a part number for the output shaft support tool? I just picked one up on Ebay and there's no possible way for it to bolt up to my transmission. The one I have is a Kent Moore J-25013-5.
The one in the video looks totally different from whatever it is I got off Ebay.
importsstillsuck
The part #your looking for is a J-29332
Building a 200r4 for my Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 455 big block. Good video.
Thank you for the information, been considering a 200r4 in a Mopar A Body. I know where to get it from now...
Love this video thank you a million, about the tape on the spline with the vise grips , maybe try a short piece of hose , I use hose in similar applications, to protect threads, just a thought, thanks again
Very thorough video. I had a 2004R installed in my 72 Pontiac Ventura. Ever since the swap, the speedo doesn’t work in drive. If I slip it to Neutral while coasting, the speedo needle starts moving. What would cause this? BTW, the 2004R has been in there for 20 years and works great to date.
I've built a lot of transmissions over the years and getting ready to build a 200-4R for my '70 GTO and I'm wondering why you're dry clutching and not soaking them? I was trained to soak the compositions before building the clutch packs. Just curious. Anyways, this is the only video I've seen on a complete rebuild for this transmission, great video.
Soaking is more of an old school technique before dynos and better quality clutches. You can more accurately measure clearances and Drag dry. They get plenty soaked when we run them in easy on a dyno. We install ALL clutches dry and todays friction materials make it perfectly safe to do so.
There is a tool for taking out and installing both center supports. About 30 bucks and works a hell of a lot better than fighting it.
yes their is way better than this way
Definitely a great video, i have a 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood with the THM200-4r, it's a great transmission for sure. If you don't mind me asking, where do you find the TCC solenoid and pressure switch for 4th gear? The OBD is signaling a TCC engagement problem and i would assume it would have been either one of the two components or both. Just about nobody online carries OEM pressure switch. Or is that irrelevant? Maybe an aftermarket one would work? Thanks in advance.
Any major transmission parts retailer should have one. A quick google search will net you several results. You wont find oem with a 200. They are too old and obsolete. Parts will discontinue in the near future
Super informative video. I have one question though. Based on all of the GM disassembly diagrams I've seen it looks like you're putting the wave plate in before the low/rev clutch set instead of after like it indicates in all the diagrams. Is this the right way to do it and if so, why?
Every core ive ever taken apart has the frictions set up the way im doing it in the video. I am not sure if your reading the diagram wrong but take apart any gm 2004R core and youll see. Even if i am wrong, what i am doing certainly works as ive been building the 2004R for many years up to 1200whp in a few g bodys and some retro fit blown trucks. in the grand scheme of things i have seen the sharp apply crown in the low piston is more effective with a thick steel rather than a wave because eventually it makes a thin mark on the frictions over time whereas my way it doesnt happen ever and it has a much less agressive apply.
Great video on 2004r socks audio kept going in n out
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!! Can't wait to build my BRF GN transmission...
I have an 85 Grand national myself with our level 2 2004R and a FTI 2800 single billet and the combo is perfect on 22lbs of boost. 2004R is king when built!!
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Very Nice !!!
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Can you post a list of parts you used for your build my engine makes about 600HP its a 464 Buick..
i dont mean to sound rude but i dont have the time to make a list like that for my engine. as for a trans you can find all the pecs at www.performabuilt.com
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Totally understand ....👍👍
Low/reverse clutch. You put the wave washer in before the rest of the clutch pack and friction plates. My trans had the wave washer going in last next to the retainer ring clip. All 200 r4 diagrams has it assembled like mine and disassemble in that order. Can that wave friction plate be installed at either end (front or back) ?
Yes it rly makes no difference.
I have a question for a real pro. I have a stock 200r4 in operable condition. I have a bucket of new parts. Stage 1 clutches, new steels, a big list of aftermarket hard parts including the input shaft, overdrive planetaries, stator, sun shell, forward drum, center support. Probably good for 600 horsepower. HOWEVER, I'm more concerned with this. With this combination of new hardened parts, would you feel comfortable pulling a 6000LB trailer with this transmission behind a mild 350 buick engine? Or should I just sell everything and get a 4L80 and an aftermarket computer brain?
Your parts list is good and i would be confident if it was built properly in aspects of hydraulics which are much more important than hardparts 75% of the time on most builds. The problem where my advice falls short of advisory is... the 2004R is a very challenging trans to modify hydraulically and even build in general. I unfortunately dont know your skill set with it or experience so my advice is hardparts are half the battle with this trans and a simple off the shelf shift kit wont give the results you seek. I personally only know 4 people that are able to do it accurately in the entire country and actually understand it (myself included) (We no longer offer them as cores are very hard to get in good shape). If you want a challenge thats very rewarding and capable with better ratios and no modification to the vehicle... the 2004R is for you.... if you want a much easier build with an off the shelf shift kit (if doing yourself) and to purchase supporting parts and adapters and would rather have longer (workhorse) ratios with much more lag but a ton more strength then the 4L80 is for you. Understanding hydraulics, pressures, volumes, and surface areas with how they correlate with each other in the bigger picture is what 75% of a proper built trans is and my advice is study a little and tackle whichever sounds more appealing to you.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I really appreciate you getting back to me. I have a decent understanding of how an auto trans works. I built one once... and smoked it in ten miles because I had a check ball in the wrong spot. But at least I know enough to understand the principle. It's gonna be in a daily driver that regularly sees loads in excess of 4000 pounds net payload and many many 12 hour trips. Currently rocking a TH350 and 3.08 gears but Id like to change that a little. I love the ratios the 200r4 has to offer but if towing in overdrive is a hard negative regardless of upgrades, then I'll probably source a 4L80 and one of those carburetor conversion kits. I'm willing to pay to make this trans work for me if its possible, and I have 99% of the parts. It's hard to find a builder.
Its only a hard negative if the hydraulics arent right. The hardparts you have dialed correctly
Great video. After watching it, I opted to rebuild the 200 4R that is going in our El Camino in place of the TH 350C instead of paying a local shop the $1,500+ they wanted to do it. I noticed that when you installed the 3-4 accumulator, you put the piston in and then the spring on top. In the GM shop manual, the illustration shows it the other way around where the spring is on the bottom and the piston is on the top (which is how I just put mine back together). Is there any difference in performance of the 3-4 accumulator between spring on the bottom/spring on the top? Just wanted to check since getting the 3-4 accumulator wrong can have a significant impact on the life expectancy of the case! BTW, a Kent Moore J-28542 tool will make removing and installing the lower reverse clutch much easier, as well as helping line up the oil hole so it sits right in the middle of the new rubber seal that gets pressed in from the valve body side of the case.
I think you misread the manual. If you do what your saying, you will snap the bellhousing off itll shift so hard.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so I did a bit more research on this and diagrams in the GM 200 4R shop manual (200-4R 17 disassembly and 200-4R 229 Assembly) definitely show the spring on the bottom and piston on the top so it is difficult to misread them. In the Haynes GM automatic transmission overhaul Techbook, their 200 4R assembly photo (8A.225 on page 8A-32) shows the 3-4 spring in first and piston on top too. The comment below the assembly photo in the Haynes manual reads "on some models, the piston is installed first, cupped side up, then the spring."
So it appears that the order of the 3-4 accumulator spring and piston is different between different models of 200-4R. Mine is an 'OG' model, originally out of an '85 Oldsmobile with a 307. The control valve body is also marked with "OG" in white paint.
So you may have to pay attention to the order of the 3-4 spring and piston during teardown or figure out what order they were in based on the pattern of the wear marks on the underside of the spacer plate (which is what I used as the spring makes a different wear pattern compared to the top of the piston).
I disagree as we have been doing it this way since 2006.
I have a new 200-4r in a 85 Monte Carlo with it in drive it takes off in second gear unless I manually shift to first
most likely too much tv pressure or too stiff of a boost valve spring. first check your tv cable tension on the plunger in the pan. if that checks out Trim the TV plunger spring or install a smaller boost valve or lighter spring in the pump boost valve is my best guess
What do you recommend as a replacement for the 200 r4 in an olds powered gbody cutlass. I want something that can handle a little bit of road racing.
4l60e or 700r4
Hey great build,the tool u need to set the drum is a SPARK PLUG WIRE PLIERS,also where are u located
Thank you and Bloomsburg Pennsylvania
Actually this transmission was around until 1990 was the last year they were used.
good morning friend, I would like to ask you a question to see if you can help me, currently I was able to rebuild my transmission th200-4r and everything is perfect but I have a small doubt, in your video at minute 1:59:34, what you move there is the valve that actuates the overdrive wire, correct? That's my doubt. In my valve body I press that valve and it's as if it doesn't have tension, but as I keep pressing it starts to have tension. My real doubt and question is the following: is that valve like that? Soft at first and with more tension as you keep pushing it? or it will be my valve that is defective. I would appreciate your answer and your comment. greetings
A modification gives it tension. Stock will perform as your describing as normal
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you very much for your answer and your time. Yesterday I went to a hydromatic workshop and I was able to check several transmissions and indeed they are all like this.
I have a issue with my t200 that I can't get reverse anymore after a low fluid situation. I topped off the fluid. Went to back up . Then it backed up for a minute and stopped and made a clicking sound. Goes into foward and now I have no reverse.
Youve burnt it. Only takes a few seconds to scar friction material due to low fluid. its rebuild time
Hi, i just want to comment one thing when installing youre reverse/forward low planteraries. I noticed the planetaries where installed without checking position of the oil hole on planetaries in reguards to feed hole in the axle? If one doesnt check this there will be no lubrication from the axle to planetaries and bearing..?
Not rly how it works. Lube sprays into the planets all over through the feed hole in the shaft, theres no fixed lube holes in the planets. Maybe im misunderstanding but ive never heard of that before and it hasnt affected all the 200s we have built
Need that for my ‘63 Chevy ll.
A 200r4 was the second transmission I ever done. It is not an easy transmission like a th350 or c6. Anyone thinking of it needs a good book and watch this video as you're doing it. It is a bitch of a transmission. You need two tools or your life is gonna suck. Lol great video.
You should have seen my first time! i had the hook too tight and couldnt get the center support in lolol
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions can you go over some of the performance upgrades these little turds need to survive with some horsepower and torque? I rebuilt a nice th400 with some good parts in it, but I want overdrive. I was wondering if you can do a constant line pressure on these and do away with the TV cable.
If you would like to view our parts list it is listed in black and white on our website except hydraulics and exclusive Performabuilt modifications, but no i wont go into anymore detail than the video i have provided on our youtube about the 700R4 as that is why i am in business and most are not. I simply show the basics and what not to do / to do to make most work for the general audience trying to do their own and to give a small idea to what our offers. I could do constant line but there is a trade off to very hard shifts even at part throttle which decreases the longevity of the transmission greatly and is very stressful on the hardparts. Most people do not understand it is not a good idea and not good for anything but strictly the drag strip but i am willing to do it as long as you understand the transmissions time is on borrowed time. I highly recommend you just take 15 minutes of your time to set the TV cable properly and i even have a video demonstrating hiow to do so. If you do any reading about us at all you will have your answer that we make the 700R4 and the 4l60E last longer and perform better than anyone else and thats all that should matter because what i do to them to make them work is not something i am ever going to discuss with the public.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I can respect that. I'll check out your website.
Thanks for information. We have this gearbox 200-4r and it works great but the reverse stoped working. The wheels are turning when its in the air and with a clicking noise from gearbox but without any power, you can stop the wheel with your hands. Any idea? Can we buy a overhaul kit from you ?
we do not sell parts and discontinued the 2004R as the Parts are too hard to come by and the cases are too old to build into. Often the reverse section burns up due to the piston over extending, tear it down and rebuild, there is no quick fix.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Ok thanks for info 👍🏻😎
I just picked up a 200r4 to rebuild to put into my 1972 Lemans. What special tools will I need to get this done? I see a need for the bench rotate bracket, as that will make it much easier.
Also, other than a master kit, it looks like I should buy a drum and a hardened input shaft. What else do you recommend getting? ie, what wears out, and what should be replaced anyways because there are better options.
Please give us a call as it would be easier to explain over the phone than by comment lol
PerformaBuilt Transmissions were
Heat-treated/hardened stator. They always strip
Do you have a website for the parts you use? Im getting ready to rebuild one myself but not sure where to get quality parts for it.
Except for our billet parts which i do not sell to the public, all parts can be found through any trans parts supplier online
One more question, can you build a stout FWD transmission for the 3800 series II/III powered? Mine can handle about 350hp, but I want to put in a turbo charger and get that POS SC out and make some serious power.
fwd trans are kinda a waste of time to build and not cost effective for power. we do not do those for that reason.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions Understood. Just wonder who built the one for twin turbo 3800 that ran 8.65 @ 158. Anyway if I decide to put a 3800 series II/ III in my Grand National I know who to buy the 4l60 from.
Do you have a tutorial on assembling the units before installation for the 200-4r?
Im not sure what you mean. Like the outside of the trans?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions No, the clutch packs and gearsets.
Dose the 200r4 have a modular vacume line ? And if not I just rebuilt my 305 small block and there is a vacucume leak where the vacume line pugs In The manifold size I’m asking if the 200r4 done have one can I just plug it
2004R does not have or need vaccum.
How much to rebuild this to hold 4-500hp?
Or Would it be best to replace it with a 4l60?
I discontinued the 2004r 5 years ago. Too old to build. Our website is www.performabuilt.com for all pricing and options
My 200 4r has the torque converter lockup switch on the accumulator housing rather than the valve body. I wonder what the difference is in the lockup timing.
How is there a lockup switch on the accumulator housing?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions The bulge or boss on the housing is tapped and drilled . There is a 62 psi pressure switch installed instead of the valve body switch. posted a video of it on my channel, from a year ago just now putting the trans back together. Your video was very helpful, especially the part about installing the center support, took me about an hour to fit it. ua-cam.com/video/Wq9hpancFe0/v-deo.html
I have never seen that before and cant think of it even doing anything beneficial or negative
Also, another question, why the 13 vane over the 7 vane pump. More transmission fluid or what? Mu
pumps more volume
PerformaBuilt Transmissions that’s what I thought but someone said it was purely for building pressure. While volume and pressure are proportional, I’ve also heard of oil pumps that are pressure pumps and not necessarily volume. If that makes sense. Anyway, great uploads and I’d much rather build an engine after it’s been machined than a transmission. After watching this.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions. Where are you located
hey for this trans do you know the orginal colors for the speedo gears,is the governor gear green and speedo gear black?
I dont remember tbh i discontinued the 2004r years and years ago. This is one of the last ones ive ever built. Typically you just count the teeth across and there should be a speedo chart for them on google
How are they compared to the th325 l4 transmission
So you don’t offer a 200-4R anymore? I can’t find it on your site.
we do not, we removed it yesterday because the parts take too long to get and the cores are getting so old the cases and components have become unusable
No. I am picking up 2 of them tomorrow. Going in my 69 Corvette. Wanting to go 9s in the quarter with nitrous, and driven cross country.
I'd better get very familiar with this trans. Glad I will be getting a backup.
Thanks for the very informative video
What do you use to clean the case? It looks great!
Alumabrite 5000 detergent
Can the level 2 build handle a 1000hp? I know that Dave Husek put a double pump high output with a high torque converter.
no, i stated it can handle 700whp based on 4k lbs. to veiw all of our ratings per build please visit www.performabuilt.com
PerformaBuilt Transmissions thank you very much.
Do you still have any left in stock?
Quick question- you mention that if you bypass the accumulators that you’ll break the trans in 2. I’m getting ready to install a TCI full manual VB and that totally eliminates the accumulators and Chis at CK sell an accumulator eliminator kit indicating it helps , “correct the hydraulics”. So is your statement of breaking it in2 only based on you VB calibration? Everyone has opinions and preferences and that’s fine and each build is different, I’m more interested in why the breakage might happen so I can avoid potential issues. Thanks in advance!
CK is Great specialist and his kit is the proper way to do it. Simply flipping the piston like other transmissions to bypass is a big no on the 2004R, it is capable of snapping off the bell if not done properly with hydraulic mods. Great question!
Thanks for the explanation! I appreciate it!
Gearhead Fellowship p
Everything I always wanted to know, on rebuilding this transmission . The correct way. Because I have one I will be taking to get rebuilt. Good video subcribed now to your channel.
Thank you for watching!
carr7640 I’ve got one I’m taking to get built as well, but I’m paranoid that they’ll mess it up due to lack of experience with the 200. I’ve never been so damn stressed over a transmission in my life!
I have a question to get to the pump and clutches is it possible to do it with the oil pan on without messing with any of that or do you have to remove all those parts first to get to the pump clutches and so on?
Not possible or you will break the tcc solenoid that plugs into the pump through the case.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions ok so im trying to get to the spring retainer what parts besides the tcc whould i have to remove ? Thanks for the fast reply 🙏
Your trying to get to the valves in the pump? The boost valve and PR valve? Or the tcc valve? If so you can indeed remove the pan and directly access these even in the vehicle with a good set of snapring pliers and some dexterity
To be exact im i need to get to the spring retainer
The spring retainer in the input drum or reverse input drum or low reverse piston?
Can you make a video on improving the hydraulics on the 2004r and hard part
I could do the hydraulic basics but it would be very brief and not on our design as its sort of a secret. The hard parts i can definitely do in detail
Please do
Question. At 1:12:27, what is that actual name of the part? I accidentally bent one of the tabs lol
200-4R Oil Deflector (4 Legs) 81-90
Where are you guys located & how can I get mine rebuild?
Bloomsburg PA and our Website will all info is www.performabuilt.com
I never saw the overdrive planet to ring gear bearing being installed.
its there i promise
DOES THE 200 HAVE A GEAR FOR THE SPEEDO.
yes, on the rear speed sensor in the case
How can I tell if my transmission is a th200? Please help
google an image and look at the pan under your car
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions already did thanks
Hi..in a 700r4 with corvette sevro which is best clearence to sevro pin??
About .040
Ok..gm says about 1/8 -1/4 is wrong that?
Because thats huge and oem spec
i wish you showed us how to replace Gear Shift Lever Shaft seal
my first guess is the pin there but it doesnt seem to move or does the seal hold it in place?
all you do is remove the 15mm nut on the inside, slide the shaft out, pry the seal out with a flathead and install the new seal. Any basic repair manual will show you how if you need a visual.
Did you guys stop building the 200? Do you have any to sell? Any cores? Thanks
yes we discontinued them about a month ago. Parts take too long to get and the cores/Cases are starting to become unusable. The remaining cores we have we are keeping incase we have any warranties we need to honor.
Performa- thanks for the reply brother
Any chance you can sell me a fresh unit?
Superzuc13@gmail.com
im not sure what you mean by fresh unit? We discontinued them period
Do you have a website to purchase your transmissions?
Yes www.performabuilt.com
I wish I could afford to rebuild my 200 😔
Where do you get those wide red bands?
Any major parts outlet
Are you guys dual feeding in this build
We do and have done that prior, the way we do is unique
I rebuilt 2004r now want shift out of 1st any suggestions
Either your governor or tv cable are misadjusted or you installed the lip seals wrong on the servo. Those are the most common but if your not experienced with the 2004R and made an uncommon mistake i would have alot of trouble pin poiting your problem.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions where is the servo located
Its the big round set of pistons on the side of the case secured with the snap ring. If your rebuilding a Trans especially the 2004R you should read a little bit about the major components like the servo. It is very hard for me to help if you dont know a little about the trans you rebuilt.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions a professional rebuilt it I was just wondering did he have to take it apart again to get to the servo
I apologize but you said "I rebuilt". The servo is on the outside. You can access it without dropping the trans.
Whats up with your audio?
its the first 15 mins or so the rest of the video is fine. just a technical difficulty.
Enjoyed the build but I think you forgot to put on the filter as last item.
We dont typically in the videos because we use a different filter and pan setup to test them on our dyno
What's the cost on the level 1?
2095.00 shipped. but we do not recommend it for beating or if you have a heavy vehicle. It is a street cruiser/ dailydriver transmission ONLY for the average 3600lb vehicle. The level 2 is for beating. build specs are available at www.performabuilt.com except hydraulic modifications.
Are you guys still selling the 2004r? I have a sponsored build for pikes peak and would love to use your trans, but can't seem to find it on your site.
no we discontinued it because cores are not in good shape anymore and impossible to get along with parts.
Do you know Dave Husek?
never heard of him
Use your sun gear too help you
help with what?
Is it just me, or does the audio in this video suck?
It sucks, it was the very early stages of starting a youtube and we didnt have the best camera / audio equipment. We have much better equipment now
You know this is a pretty good video but why would you tell us how to do everything except the most important things. Can show any modifications you've done to anything. Thats the whole damn point. Screw these videos
You dont even offer a rebuild version of these anymore anyway so you think someone is gonna take your business? Geez
Wouldnt be in buisness if i did. You want modification advice then buy a book and learn lol. Builders do videos for basic rebuilds not to just give their business away... use your common sense.
No because they are too old and useless with a governor to get to work with any kind of boost or power adder in todays racing world. Governor cant keep up with any boost. Why would i do a video if ive discontinued? Tell you what... i will do a video on dumb comments next starting with yours. Have a nice rest of your week and stay tuned 😉
I'm just frustrated because I need to rebuild one. I have no other option with money i have and its for my dads car. Nobody rebuilds them anymore. I don't need it to handle a power adder. I just need to be a step up from stock. It's loosing 1st gear. I understand where your coming from. But if someone tried to rebuild one from your video it's only gonna get them so far. And you discontinued it so thats why I said why not do a whole video so people can still rebuild them the right way when there's no business of yours to be took because you don't offer it anymore. Not trying to be an ass. I appreciate your video it just left me with questions still. I will buy a manual if it will tell me what I need to know. I dont like asking people but I was hoping that this time I really need it I could find some good info. Sorry, thank you for your time. You did good work on the video of what you did show!
Use the largest 700R4 boost valve in the 200 4R pump. Take the pump and direct drum and all apply plates to a machine shop and get them all machined flat (cant stress how important that is) use a 10 or 13 4l60e 700r4 pump rotor in the 200 4R pump. Use clutch counts and wide band in video with .040 band clearance and .020 clutch clearance. Set end play to .005 to .010. Service it fluid and filter every single year and never let it get above 190 degrees. That will hold about 500 hp with very little money.
Audio is terrible