G'day mate, It's just like I'm standing next to you and we talk about old tractors👍 Saturday morning, lighting up the wood stove, a cup of coffee and a Bundy Bear video while the shed I warming up, not so bad, now it's shed time. Cheers from Henning in the cold north😊
It would be nice to have it somewhere between hot and wet eh.
Місяць тому+1
I’ve recently purchased a 135 with a burnt clutch, I’ve spent about 2 hours watching your videos and still have not seen one of you splitting The tractor in half at the clutch, is there one of them videos out there?
Commenting again from England 🇬🇧 It's a few years since you uploaded this excellent information. May I ask, have you fitted a lip seal conversion yet. My original rope seal is a wet as an otters pocket! Your comments on this would be very much appreciated. Keep up the good work. Alan Nock.
Fair enough, I don't blame you for sticking with the tried and tested; it is a substantial amount of work to renew the new type if it is short lived. It's my theory that the scroll I believe is machined on the mating surface of the crankshaft, will quickly wear a lip seal. My decision is to fit a new rope seal, following the excellent tutorial you have uploaded. It can't be worse than it is now, I strongly suspect that it's the original, and it's pouring out. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Do you think my clutch might be damaged as no transport bolts were used when it was removed and it was left lying on its fingers for a good few months?
Lance, if a clutch is put back and the finger bolts are too far forward what can you do with it. Is there a reason they should be depressed forward. I presume they should be level with the clutch front at least but in the case I saw they were depressed far in or forward.
Have you yet been able to test the lip seal conversion kit? Wondering if it would be worth a try, since our MF 135 seems to need new crankshaft seals. It leaks alot of oil through the weep hole in the bellhousing.
maybe you should paint the heads of the bolts white they will be easier to notice for removal enjoy your videos I have 1959 ferguson 4 cyl myself hard to get parts here in CANADA
Hi Lance, Many thanks for sharing your valuable experience and knowledge.. I am restoring a MF 135, and find your comments very informative. I purchased my tractor with a seized motor but otherwise it is very straight. I have the motor being repaired by a very good local engineer. The big ends had picked up but the crank came up nicely. I heard that there is an updated rear engine seal which a replacement for the wick seal. Is this true? Cheers Ross
@@timboothman4888 both could be as the yellow springs had less tension so you needed more. The red you could use 6, 9 or 12 depending on the horse power but it got harder to press the pedal in as well on the smaller tractors.
G'day mate, It's just like I'm standing next to you and we talk about old tractors👍 Saturday morning, lighting up the wood stove, a cup of coffee and a Bundy Bear video while the shed I warming up, not so bad, now it's shed time. Cheers from Henning in the cold north😊
Thanks, It is getting hot over here so a cold drink will do here.
Thanks for the clutch rivet lesson Lance. Your area too dry and out our area to wet, a difficult farming here in our part of Canada
It would be nice to have it somewhere between hot and wet eh.
I’ve recently purchased a 135 with a burnt clutch, I’ve spent about 2 hours watching your videos and still have not seen one of you splitting The tractor in half at the clutch, is there one of them videos out there?
I dont think there is.
Commenting again from England 🇬🇧
It's a few years since you uploaded this excellent information.
May I ask, have you fitted a lip seal conversion yet. My original rope seal is a wet as an otters pocket!
Your comments on this would be very much appreciated.
Keep up the good work.
Alan Nock.
I have one here to try but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.
Fair enough, I don't blame you for sticking with the tried and tested; it is a substantial amount of work to renew the new type if it is short lived.
It's my theory that the scroll I believe is machined on the mating surface of the crankshaft, will quickly wear a lip seal.
My decision is to fit a new rope seal, following the excellent tutorial you have uploaded.
It can't be worse than it is now, I strongly suspect that it's the original, and it's pouring out.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you.
Thank you sir
Welcome
New sub from the U.S.A. I enjoyed the video mate. Cheer,s.
Thanks Eddy
Do you think my clutch might be damaged as no transport bolts were used when it was removed and it was left lying on its fingers for a good few months?
Shouldnt be a problem at all.
@@BundyBearsShed That's a relief. Thanks
Hello again Lance,do you think a 12" flywheel would fit masey ferguson 835?thanks for the information.😅
Probably not
Lance, if a clutch is put back and the finger bolts are too far forward what can you do with it. Is there a reason they should be depressed forward. I presume they should be level with the clutch front at least but in the case I saw they were depressed far in or forward.
If the pivots are worn they go too far forward but the parts are readily available to replace the parts only and not the complete unit.
Are these the three small pins holding on the fingers?
Have you yet been able to test the lip seal conversion kit? Wondering if it would be worth a try, since our MF 135 seems to need new crankshaft seals. It leaks alot of oil through the weep hole in the bellhousing.
No I have not had the need to use it, I hear they are working well though.
What is the bolts size required for holding the clutch in before you remove the outer bolts if you could let me know be very much appreciated
They are 1/4 unc but not sure of the length
@@BundyBearsShed thanks very much for that
@@BundyBearsShed thank you mate.
@@BundyBearsShed You say it's unf in the video?
maybe you should paint the heads of the bolts white they will be easier to notice for removal enjoy your videos I have 1959 ferguson 4 cyl myself hard to get parts here in CANADA
Yeah probably a good idea.
Hi Lance, Many thanks for sharing your valuable experience and knowledge.. I am restoring a MF 135, and find your comments very informative. I purchased my tractor with a seized motor but otherwise it is very straight. I have the motor being repaired by a very good local engineer. The big ends had picked up but the crank came up nicely. I heard that there is an updated rear engine seal which a replacement for the wick seal. Is this true? Cheers Ross
Yes Quality Tractor Parts in Ireland sell them, I have some here but I havent had a chance to test them yet but by all accounts they are a good thing.
I notice a odd spring missing lance
G Day Tim, When they went to the heavy duty red springs they would change the number of springs to suit the HP of the tractor.
@@BundyBearsShed many thanks I put 6 reds in mine but it had 12 yellows in when I split it. Which is correct?
@@timboothman4888 both could be as the yellow springs had less tension so you needed more. The red you could use 6, 9 or 12 depending on the horse power but it got harder to press the pedal in as well on the smaller tractors.
So what if you went gun-ho and didn't put the finger bolts in before removing the clutch.......I'm asking for a friend...
No big deal it would be fine
Anybody know what the clutch bolt size and lengh are?
5/16" unc but I cant remember the length
Bomba injetora cav
Images?
Makita
Good gear the Makita.
Primo una preguntita
Thanks.
Good job sir ❤
From India
#bappitractorhospital
Thankyou.