Hi Mike. Kevin in Kansas. We bought a farm home and under the front door dormer we had a leak that would leak during hard downfalls under the staircase to the finished basement. We have Black Walnut trees on property and for some reason years ago they let one grow 20 feet from the front door. They also put useless gutters on the dormer that lead to nowhere. Bad combination. So, we watched your video and repaired the thin crack and cut the enormous tree. All good now. Thanks for your content. Your kit was amazing. Cheers.
Just used this kit. I used my Milwaukee Caulk gun set on 4. It filled my crack all the way through to the outside of the wall which is under my deck. I guess I will be cleaning that up in a couple of days. This kit is awesome. Thanks for the video.
For some people it's hard to understand that even though it looks easy it takes a certain expertise to complete the job correctly and that's worth a lot thanks for the video.
I had a hair-line crack that started leaking water this winter when the ground was frozen and we had a lot of rain. Found that the crack was visible from the outside as well as inside. I watched the video and then followed the links and bought the kit. Today was installation day. A+ for most of the contents of the kit. The only B was for the little water bottle. More water would up leaking from the bottle than came out of the lower spouts. I used plumber's tape on the bottle threads for a better seal. The trick here is to gently squeeze the water bottle and be patient. Did I mention you should be patient with the water bottle? OK. The wire brush was perfect. The tubes were easily sealed to the wall with the epoxy paste, then the epoxy paste was added to the rest of the brushed area. Let cure 4 hours. Applied water, and that took well over an hour and a half. Took the polyurethane mix tubes and set them in hot water for 20 minutes. This a must in my opinion. This makes the polyurethane flow easily. Just like the video, start at the bottom and patiently work your way up the wall. I found watching the occasional bubbles in the polyurethane tube gave me a way to pace the delivery of material. Looking into the next tube up I could see when the polyurethane was about to come out and was able to close the feed tube, pull it off the tube, cap the tube, and get the feed tube attached to the next higher tube with little spillage. Now I'm waiting for it to cure. Tomorrow, I'll knock off the tubes and then look into how to sand down the epoxy paste (did I miss the link for that tool?). One last comment, remember to seal the top of the wall if your crack is visible there. Overall, very satisfied with the project and the kit.
Well - I gave it a go. I have a 2nd crack and had to order a 2nd kit. That will be fixed when it arrives. I'll describe my experience: The prep work, port installation, and epoxy is the time consuming part. The epoxy goes a little quicker than you think. I did have some polyurethane resin/foam leak out from weak spots in my epoxy-ing. (I'm not a professional). I did read that just because some of the foam leaks out doesn't mean the product isn't working. I did have 1-2 spots where the material would not make it to the higher port (~75/80% of the time it did). I had to work through a PVC pipe area in the middle of the wall. I warmed the injection tubes in hot water for about a half-hour before injection. I went slow on the injection (I watched random air bubbles as my "guide" to prevent me from going too fast) and kept constant, light pressure on the caulk gun to slowly move the material into the port. I'll let it sit for another day then sand it down/remove the ports - also might Drylok over top the whole area. ~7 foot crack; total time - 6 hours (I did go slow and I had a lot of old caulk to get off). The 2nd crack will go a little quicker I'm sure. It's messy at times, but I think it'll work. And don't get the polyurethane on your hands - no other way to get it off other than to sort of...wait for it to fall off. Enjoy!
Great information. Thanks! PSA - You should have an N-95 NIOSH Approved mask on to reduce inhalation of airborne silicates. I get that you have the vac attached to the grinder, but unless you are using a wet saw/ grinder, there is still airborne particle exposure risk. Just an FYI for you and your viewers.
This is awesome content. I don't have a Crack, but as a creator I appreciate the time you took to produce this video and the opportunity to learn from you.
What if my basement is leaking right in the corner, would this method still work? How would you attach the injection ports in that case, since it seems they require a flat part of the wall to attach to?
I paid $850 per crack at two of my properties, and they didn’t even sand it down. I still have the tubes sticking out of the wall. Thanks for sharing - I will never be taken by again!
Maybee that is going rate in your area prices are different all over the country a master plumber in nyc charges 300 a hr a master plumber in nj charges 150a hr and a master plumber in pa charges 100 a hr.
As a professional water proofer when it comes to injections they have a huge chance of failing and you need to be drilling the crack on a 45 degree angle and should be pumping a acid through the crack first to clean and debris out of it cause and sort of dust little stone in side the crack can cause pin leaks in the injecting then after that you want to pum through a ton of water to wash the crack out and then patch the crack and I also like to patch the crack on the out side above grade as well before pumping this and even with all that I really don't like doing it
Mike Day Everything About Concrete ... Mr. Mike, my house is leaking bad, I feel I can do this Can I go Tony local Lowe’s or home de Poot and do these 3 cracks in my basement??? I can’t afford to pay anyone, as I’m a single mom of 3.....? What do you suggest??
Hi Mike. This looks like a great product. I must ask though, have you ever had a call back? Meaning that the crack somehow still allows water to enter the basement and how you go about fixing it at that stage? Thanks for all your quality content. Great channel!!
Good work well done, is this product you injected into concrete wall a polyurethane? It expands well because epoxy dose not expand, I love to learn more Thank you
@@MikeDayConcrete when will be your next training ? Let me know specially fixing concrete slabs , am sure fixing cracks in wall same as in slabs I guess. I couldn’t see the link you mentioned name of this product . Thank you
great video, get yourself a respirator mask for the grinding though, trust me. i've been doing masonry work for over 25 years now and my lungs are shot from inhaling that dust on too many occasions. also saw you say this would work on a cinderblock wall under another comment... i would NOT suggest this product for that application. cinder blocks have 6x6x8 cavities in each block and about an inch cavity between blocks in most cases, most contractors save money by not "slushing the cells" (or filling the cavities with concrete), meaning in order to actually seal up a block wall using a product like this would take at least 20 times as much. tuck-pointing is the only way to go on block and brick, and its much cheaper to do.
Great informative Video! I have a 6" wide foundation wall that is exposed on both sides that is two years old. The small settling stress cracks start at the top and run straight down to the footing, about 18" long. They also go completely through the wall from exterior to interior. I assume I need to seal the backside to keep the polyurethane foam sealer from flowing out the backside. What is your recommendation to accomplish this? The exterior will eventually be back filled with dirt, and the interior is in the crawl space. On a side note, what happened to the $15.00 course you mentioned in the video?
Mike, youve been around long enough to know that making money is one thing, but actually stopping water infiltration is yet another. If there is enough of a problem as for water pressure it will find a way in or it will make a way in.
My basement walls were formed with brick mold forms. Have literally one crack from the bottom corner of an egress window to the floor. It has leaked for years so was excited to finally have a repair kit. The crack is not wide though slightly more than a hairline. We have open studs on the walls for future finishing. So putting the ports on wasn't smooth. The brick shaped surface is rough and the studs limited maneuver space. So when I started pumping each of the ports leaked. Now I have no way of knowing how much product is in the wall sealing the crack. I assume some but there is a good size blob at the bottom...not in the crack. Any recommendations? Should I drill through the inside patch between the ports to expose the crack and put on new ports to try and get more product in the wall?
Great videos! One Tie Rod Hole in my poured concrete basement is leaking water inside. How should I fill it? Do I need to clean the hole before filling, it might have soil, mold buildup, etc.?
Hi Mike I have water coming in my basement at the union between the footing and the Bottom of the foundation wall it’s a horizontal crack 20 foot long do I use the corner injector port and what is the sequence of injecting since I’m going Sideways ? Thank you
Is it better to use this from inside the house in the basement - or to use it outside the house - but you would have to dig down the basement wall to expose the whole crack? Could be a lot of digging. Would you say it is just as good and strong to do from inside the basement wall? Please let me know as I am not looking forward to a big shovel festival.
Hey, thanks for the informative video. Really appreciate it! Was wondering if you have tips on how to repair a corner pop (I believe that is what it is called? ) in an old basement corner at the top where it should be supporting the wood . It’s a fairly old house (120 years). Lots of cracks and large holes in the basement walls. What would be the best what to go about making it presentable or fixing it for selling? Thank you!
Get my foundation crack repair course here: mike-day.mykajabi.com/offers/7YJRjejK Updated course price is $97.00 Get the course and save yourself hundreds of dollars vs hiring a contractor like me.
I have cracks on a open porch concrete slab over a storage area. It has 5 perpendicular cracks I need to seal. Will this or the epoxy system resist expansion/compression when the summer sun and the winter cold hits it?
Thanks mike just bought a house and guess what. 2 cracks leaking on the unfinished side. Ill probably buy your course and give them a run in the next month or 2.
@@MikeDayConcrete I've got a basement floor crack and it seeps when the snow melts and when its rainy. I first used my grinder and prepped the crack for hydraulic leak stop(H.L.S.), put the H.L.S. down and it died except where the water was still seeping. I put a skim coat layer over it to try and seal it from the top. When the snow melts it darkens(dampens) the crack. So I came to the conclusion to get the kit in your video. Chip n remove the bs H.L.S. and start over. So now that I put u in the scenario, u think I should drill a 1/4" hole in the crack and shove 1/4"tubing in there n try n pump the water out? Or just wait till it gets cold enough out to freeze again. Is a slow seeping ok or needs to be dry?
Mike Day Everything About Concrete Hello, how can I get the instructions on how to do mine. I know you mentioned a $15.00 cost for something. I’m ready to do mine ASAP! Let me know if you’re selling a how to, step by step video.
I'm in the middle of repairing my foundation crack now. It's supposed to rain in 3 days. This is a repair of a long ago repair. Crossing fingers here. Will update in a week. Get a good 3m painters mask and open windows for venting!
Great information. I have an old adobe home, plaster covering the adobe. Some additions to original house--- Lots of vertical cracks in those areas. Do you think this method will work on adobe walls??? Please I would like to get your feedback.
Hey Mike this is a great video. Can you please comment with a link for the product? The link in the description works but when you click on the product it says page not found. Thank you
do i have to make a drain out side?....beacause i have the same cracked but one guy come the other day and he told me ...i has to make a drain outside .that mean he have to dig out side .its true or i can made the way you do in this video....thanks
Hi Mike. Thanks for the video. Do you recommend this product for leaking tie rods? If so, is there any prep work to be done on the concrete/tie rod area other than clearing loose debris?
Mike, What do I do with a crack that us significantly wider than that? For instance, and inch or an inch and a half? Also can you tell me the name of the tool that you used to get the wall prepped to paint?
A crack that wide sounds like a structural crack that needs repair. Probably better off letting an engineer look at it and make a suggestion. Without seeing it it's hard for me to comment on one that size. I used a Dewalt 4" grinder with a diamond cup wheel on it to prep for painting after.
I love this video. You did an awesome job with it. You also explained it very well. I have already purchased the materials. I will comment on how I made out. I have a strong feeling you will be getting an A+ Review. Feeling very confident. Thank you! 9/27/21
I just got done using the kit. I didn't even go through 1 tube of the poly, maybe half. The crack was only about 5 feet maybe. Is that OK? I wasn't squirting fast.
Excellent video! I'm looking for the $15 course, I do see the a $97 course when I click your link, did the course go up in price? I don't want to do this as a business I just want to repair the leak in my wall. Also can you apply this wet or do I have to wait for the crack to dry before I apply?
I'd like to know what percentage of PermaSeal customer's require additional visits because the initial job was not done properly resulting in continued foundation leaking?
I have a question. I have a basement wall where there's a hole in it because the old rebar has completely rusted through. So basically there appears to be a hole from the outside to the inside. When it rain a lot, water comes in. Will this kit work on this type of problem?
Great video, how well does this work on cinderblock?? I have a crappy cinderblock addition on my house and it leaks from random spots, I have done a bit of grading outside which has helper but I need to make sure it is 100% so that I can insulate and finish the wall without worries of it leaking... Thanks for any advice you can offer!
speaking as a mason with 25 years of experience, i would NOT use this on a cinderblock wall at all. that is what tuck-pointing is for. this stuff is for fixing fine cracks, cinderblocks have rather large cavities inside them that are rarely filled completely with concrete as they should be. you would end up using at least 20 times more of this product than you should.
@@Smokey420Greenleaf So what they actually did was poured a concrete foundation about 5 feet tall off the footings then capped it with about 4 courses of concrete block, which i believe may be filled with concrete, but I will have to check to find out! I am going to dig down but I'm willing to bet that they only parged down to that concrete/cmu joint and perhaps the parging has failed there. Thanks for your reply!
About a half inch for me. This stuff expands 20X after you inject it so it will fill a pretty big crack. Just have to be able to seal up the outside of the crack.
@Javid Ghanbarzadeh The best thing to do would be join my private membership, the course is in there plus you can ask me questions in there. www.theconcreteunderground.com/the-concrete-underground You can cancel after the first month if you don't need it anymore.
I bought the kit and followed your directions (so far) up until inserting the foam. I tested my epoxy seal with the water bottle and saw that I had to put a little more epoxy around 3 of the ports on the bottom portion of the crack--water came out around the ports. After adding a little more epoxy by those ports, I let it cure for a day. Today, I don't get any water coming out of any ports. I squirt the bottle from the top port and then move down--no water. I'm nervous to go to the next step of inserting foam. Any suggestions? Ports that had water coming out of them on the first test do not have water coming out now. I only added more epoxy to the bottom 3 ports after 1st water test. Why is there no water coming out anywhere now? it's shooting back at me from the port I insert water bottle into.
Hi Mike. Kevin in Kansas. We bought a farm home and under the front door dormer we had a leak that would leak during hard downfalls under the staircase to the finished basement. We have Black Walnut trees on property and for some reason years ago they let one grow 20 feet from the front door. They also put useless gutters on the dormer that lead to nowhere. Bad combination. So, we watched your video and repaired the thin crack and cut the enormous tree. All good now. Thanks for your content. Your kit was amazing. Cheers.
Just used this kit. I used my Milwaukee Caulk gun set on 4. It filled my crack all the way through to the outside of the wall which is under my deck. I guess I will be cleaning that up in a couple of days. This kit is awesome. Thanks for the video.
just ordered and did two cracks! saved me 1000 bucks, thank you!!
For some people it's hard to understand that even though it looks easy it takes a certain expertise to complete the job correctly and that's worth a lot thanks for the video.
It does, we do a lot of training on the things we do to learn how to do them correctly.
I had a hair-line crack that started leaking water this winter when the ground was frozen and we had a lot of rain. Found that the crack was visible from the outside as well as inside. I watched the video and then followed the links and bought the kit. Today was installation day. A+ for most of the contents of the kit. The only B was for the little water bottle. More water would up leaking from the bottle than came out of the lower spouts. I used plumber's tape on the bottle threads for a better seal. The trick here is to gently squeeze the water bottle and be patient. Did I mention you should be patient with the water bottle? OK. The wire brush was perfect. The tubes were easily sealed to the wall with the epoxy paste, then the epoxy paste was added to the rest of the brushed area. Let cure 4 hours. Applied water, and that took well over an hour and a half. Took the polyurethane mix tubes and set them in hot water for 20 minutes. This a must in my opinion. This makes the polyurethane flow easily. Just like the video, start at the bottom and patiently work your way up the wall. I found watching the occasional bubbles in the polyurethane tube gave me a way to pace the delivery of material. Looking into the next tube up I could see when the polyurethane was about to come out and was able to close the feed tube, pull it off the tube, cap the tube, and get the feed tube attached to the next higher tube with little spillage. Now I'm waiting for it to cure. Tomorrow, I'll knock off the tubes and then look into how to sand down the epoxy paste (did I miss the link for that tool?). One last comment, remember to seal the top of the wall if your crack is visible there. Overall, very satisfied with the project and the kit.
And what if the crack doesn’t stop leaking
This is a great video. Thank you. I just have a question. How do you seal cracks in a corner of the basement?
You are a thousand percent correct Mike The Hammer cost $20 my experience cost $300 excellent video
Thank You!!
You don't already have a hammer?
Well - I gave it a go. I have a 2nd crack and had to order a 2nd kit. That will be fixed when it arrives. I'll describe my experience:
The prep work, port installation, and epoxy is the time consuming part. The epoxy goes a little quicker than you think. I did have some polyurethane resin/foam leak out from weak spots in my epoxy-ing. (I'm not a professional). I did read that just because some of the foam leaks out doesn't mean the product isn't working. I did have 1-2 spots where the material would not make it to the higher port (~75/80% of the time it did). I had to work through a PVC pipe area in the middle of the wall. I warmed the injection tubes in hot water for about a half-hour before injection. I went slow on the injection (I watched random air bubbles as my "guide" to prevent me from going too fast) and kept constant, light pressure on the caulk gun to slowly move the material into the port. I'll let it sit for another day then sand it down/remove the ports - also might Drylok over top the whole area.
~7 foot crack; total time - 6 hours (I did go slow and I had a lot of old caulk to get off). The 2nd crack will go a little quicker I'm sure. It's messy at times, but I think it'll work. And don't get the polyurethane on your hands - no other way to get it off other than to sort of...wait for it to fall off.
Enjoy!
Good job, it'll work!
Great information. Thanks!
PSA -
You should have an N-95 NIOSH Approved mask on to reduce inhalation of airborne silicates. I get that you have the vac attached to the grinder, but unless you are using a wet saw/ grinder, there is still airborne particle exposure risk. Just an FYI for you and your viewers.
Thanks for the PSA!
The good news is that the pandemic has made N95 masks essential for even a trip to the hardware store, let alone the repair!! 😂
This is awesome content. I don't have a Crack, but as a creator I appreciate the time you took to produce this video and the opportunity to learn from you.
I appreciate that!
Thanks for sharing. Just started(3months) working with a waterproofing company in Abu Dhabi. Thanks for all. I subscribe immediately
What if my basement is leaking right in the corner, would this method still work? How would you attach the injection ports in that case, since it seems they require a flat part of the wall to attach to?
Thanks for your informative video. I was wondering how this would hold up in -50 degree frozen winter weather.
I paid $850 per crack at two of my properties, and they didn’t even sand it down. I still have the tubes sticking out of the wall. Thanks for sharing - I will never be taken by again!
Maybee that is going rate in your area prices are different all over the country a master plumber in nyc charges 300 a hr a master plumber in nj charges 150a hr and a master plumber in pa charges 100 a hr.
His video was pre covid so I do believe it’s about $1000 a crack now
As a professional water proofer when it comes to injections they have a huge chance of failing and you need to be drilling the crack on a 45 degree angle and should be pumping a acid through the crack first to clean and debris out of it cause and sort of dust little stone in side the crack can cause pin leaks in the injecting then after that you want to pum through a ton of water to wash the crack out and then patch the crack and I also like to patch the crack on the out side above grade as well before pumping this and even with all that I really don't like doing it
After the dye process and injections like you have done in video should I put micro fiber straps after this process or I will be fine?
You'll be fine, sometimes we'll grind off the excess epoxy the next day to smoothen the patch flush with the concrete.
Thanks for sharing. Just started working for a waterproofing company and thought I might tutor myself a bit.
You could do this on the side and make really good money.
Mike Day Everything About Concrete ... Mr. Mike, my house is leaking bad, I feel I can do this Can I go Tony local Lowe’s or home de Poot and do these 3 cracks in my basement??? I can’t afford to pay anyone, as I’m a single mom of 3.....? What do you suggest??
@@sdmartin808 where do you live?
@@sdmartin808 you can do it yourself.
@@chirina5 Cincinnati, Ohio
Hi Mike. This looks like a great product. I must ask though, have you ever had a call back? Meaning that the crack somehow still allows water to enter the basement and how you go about fixing it at that stage? Thanks for all your quality content. Great channel!!
Hi Mike very nice video thank you! One question if the crack is at the corner do they have different ports?
Mike you did a fantastic job sir! This video was very helpful.
Good work well done, is this product you injected into concrete wall a polyurethane? It expands well because epoxy dose not expand, I love to learn more
Thank you
Yes, correct
@@MikeDayConcrete when will be your next training ? Let me know specially fixing concrete slabs , am sure fixing cracks in wall same as in slabs I guess. I couldn’t see the link you mentioned name of this product . Thank you
Can you use this product on wet crack...?
How long does the repair last?
Hey Mike quick question? What if the water isn't leaking from the other ports underneath them. Thanks!!
great video, get yourself a respirator mask for the grinding though, trust me. i've been doing masonry work for over 25 years now and my lungs are shot from inhaling that dust on too many occasions. also saw you say this would work on a cinderblock wall under another comment... i would NOT suggest this product for that application. cinder blocks have 6x6x8 cavities in each block and about an inch cavity between blocks in most cases, most contractors save money by not "slushing the cells" (or filling the cavities with concrete), meaning in order to actually seal up a block wall using a product like this would take at least 20 times as much. tuck-pointing is the only way to go on block and brick, and its much cheaper to do.
Great informative Video! I have a 6" wide foundation wall that is exposed on both sides that is two years old. The small settling stress cracks start at the top and run straight down to the footing, about 18" long. They also go completely through the wall from exterior to interior. I assume I need to seal the backside to keep the polyurethane foam sealer from flowing out the backside. What is your recommendation to accomplish this? The exterior will eventually be back filled with dirt, and the interior is in the crawl space.
On a side note, what happened to the $15.00 course you mentioned in the video?
This is what happened to my basement wall way before it was renovated
Would you take this approach if there is water leaking in while you do it
The crack can be damp/wet but not with water running in while you do this.
Do you think this would also work in block walls? I used xypex on the flat surfaces, but I am still leaking at the vertical corners.
Mike, youve been around long enough to know that making money is one thing, but actually stopping water infiltration is yet another.
If there is enough of a problem as for water pressure it will find a way in or it will make a way in.
My basement walls were formed with brick mold forms. Have literally one crack from the bottom corner of an egress window to the floor. It has leaked for years so was excited to finally have a repair kit. The crack is not wide though slightly more than a hairline. We have open studs on the walls for future finishing. So putting the ports on wasn't smooth. The brick shaped surface is rough and the studs limited maneuver space. So when I started pumping each of the ports leaked. Now I have no way of knowing how much product is in the wall sealing the crack. I assume some but there is a good size blob at the bottom...not in the crack. Any recommendations? Should I drill through the inside patch between the ports to expose the crack and put on new ports to try and get more product in the wall?
Mike, Thank you for helping me fix my foundation wall crack. Radon Seal worked just like you said. Will
My leak is in a place where the concrete was not well mixed, you can see some gravel accumulated in a small area, do you have any tips for that?
It is very nice to watch this, thank your
What kind of sand paper do you use to sand the work?
Great videos! One Tie Rod Hole in my poured concrete basement is leaking water inside. How should I fill it?
Do I need to clean the hole before filling, it might have soil, mold buildup, etc.?
Any tips for spreading the epoxy in a corner?
Hi Mike I have water coming in my basement at the union between the footing and the Bottom of the foundation wall it’s a horizontal crack 20 foot long do I use the corner injector port and what is the sequence of injecting since I’m going Sideways ? Thank you
What's the PSI rating on this product?
What can be done if you are having trouble to fill up the cracks.
Is it better to use this from inside the house in the basement - or to use it outside the house - but you would have to dig down the basement wall to expose the whole crack? Could be a lot of digging. Would you say it is just as good and strong to do from inside the basement wall? Please let me know as I am not looking forward to a big shovel festival.
Better from the inside. No need to dig out on the outside.
Does the homeowners insurance usually cover your price?
Hey, thanks for the informative video. Really appreciate it!
Was wondering if you have tips on how to repair a corner pop (I believe that is what it is called? ) in an old basement corner at the top where it should be supporting the wood . It’s a fairly old house (120 years). Lots of cracks and large holes in the basement walls. What would be the best what to go about making it presentable or fixing it for selling? Thank you!
Get my foundation crack repair course here: mike-day.mykajabi.com/offers/7YJRjejK
Updated course price is $97.00
Get the course and save yourself hundreds of dollars vs hiring a contractor like me.
Can this be used for the joint where the wall meets the floor?
Thank you Mike you did a top notch job on this video
Thanks! Just ordered the kid again your video helped a ton
You're welcome
You ordered a kid? I thought Wayfair stopped doing that.
Dang talk n text 😅
Great video, best I’ve watched...clear step by step instructions, wanna thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks Kevin.
I have cracks on a open porch concrete slab over a storage area. It has 5 perpendicular cracks I need to seal. Will this or the epoxy system resist expansion/compression when the summer sun and the winter cold hits it?
So you can do this over a thin crack? Or is it better to widen it?
Thank you Mike. Great video
Nice Video loved seeing the mat. on the outside.
Thanks mike just bought a house and guess what. 2 cracks leaking on the unfinished side. Ill probably buy your course and give them a run in the next month or 2.
hello sir, I’m interested in the course and wondering if you kept it updated. I did find the link. I just had a few questions before purchasing.
Email me your questions
everythingaboutconcrete@gmail.com
Could this type of job work for an overhead crack?? Thanks.
Does this work on actively leaking crack? Thanks for the video.
Gotta stop the water for a short time first. Crack can be damp but not with running water coming out of it.
@@MikeDayConcrete I've got a basement floor crack and it seeps when the snow melts and when its rainy. I first used my grinder and prepped the crack for hydraulic leak stop(H.L.S.), put the H.L.S. down and it died except where the water was still seeping. I put a skim coat layer over it to try and seal it from the top. When the snow melts it darkens(dampens) the crack. So I came to the conclusion to get the kit in your video. Chip n remove the bs H.L.S. and start over. So now that I put u in the scenario, u think I should drill a 1/4" hole in the crack and shove 1/4"tubing in there n try n pump the water out? Or just wait till it gets cold enough out to freeze again. Is a slow seeping ok or needs to be dry?
Mike Day Everything About Concrete Hello, how can I get the instructions on how to do mine. I know you mentioned a $15.00 cost for something. I’m ready to do mine ASAP! Let me know if you’re selling a how to, step by step video.
I need this for a job soon! The link to buy the foundation kit isn’t working...
I'm in the middle of repairing my foundation crack now. It's supposed to rain in 3 days. This is a repair of a long ago repair. Crossing fingers here. Will update in a week. Get a good 3m painters mask and open windows for venting!
What’s the update?
Great video sir.
Where’s the link to your course? I want it!
Do you have to dry out the crack first?
No, damp is good.
Great information. I have an old adobe home, plaster covering the adobe. Some additions to original house--- Lots of vertical cracks in those areas. Do you think this method will work on adobe walls??? Please I would like to get your feedback.
Hey Mike im interested in buying one of these kits, how long do they usually take to ship to Chicago?
Hi Mike. Will this also work on a foundation floor to my garage? We have a large crack to fix.
Great video!
Thank you!
What is the name of the the repair kit?
That's for making this video.
Hey Mike this is a great video. Can you please comment with a link for the product? The link in the description works but when you click on the product it says page not found. Thank you
do i have to make a drain out side?....beacause i have the same cracked but one guy come the other day and he told me ...i has to make a drain outside .that mean he have to dig out side .its true or i can made the way you do in this video....thanks
Awesome video. Loved it. And thank you for the recommendation on what to use. Just ordered a kit
Mike, where can I buy the kit
If you have a leak around a sewer pipe do you do it the same way?
Would i have to this on the outside as well?
Does it work while water comes slowly trough the crack? Or need to wait to stop and the crack to dry out? 🤔
I have a crack behind a stud - should I cut the stud and replace it after fixing it?
Hi Mike. Thanks for the video. Do you recommend this product for leaking tie rods? If so, is there any prep work to be done on the concrete/tie rod area other than clearing loose debris?
Mike, What do I do with a crack that us significantly wider than that? For instance, and inch or an inch and a half?
Also can you tell me the name of the tool that you used to get the wall prepped to paint?
A crack that wide sounds like a structural crack that needs repair. Probably better off letting an engineer look at it and make a suggestion. Without seeing it it's hard for me to comment on one that size. I used a Dewalt 4" grinder with a diamond cup wheel on it to prep for painting after.
Does it work if the basement wall is made of bricks instead of a solid wall?
I love this video. You did an awesome job with it. You also explained it very well. I have already purchased the materials. I will comment on how I made out. I have a strong feeling you will be getting an A+ Review. Feeling very confident. Thank you! 9/27/21
How did this work for you?
Thank you
Where can I purchase this kit?
I just got done using the kit. I didn't even go through 1 tube of the poly, maybe half. The crack was only about 5 feet maybe. Is that OK? I wasn't squirting fast.
Excellent video! I'm looking for the $15 course, I do see the a $97 course when I click your link, did the course go up in price? I don't want to do this as a business I just want to repair the leak in my wall. Also can you apply this wet or do I have to wait for the crack to dry before I apply?
Do you need to grind the crack.
NO, not with this stuff.
I can’t find this kit in Canada anyway…?
Awesome. Thanks
please let me know how to deal with the water leak at the bottom corner where the wall meets the floor ???
I need this badly. to do my basement asap. it leak water 3x now in this year and my basement is flood.
How can I do this for cracks right on the seam?
I'd like to know what percentage of PermaSeal customer's require additional visits because the initial job was not done properly resulting in continued foundation leaking?
thank you for the video
I have a stair style crack in my cinderblock foundation, will this work seal it?
I have a question. I have a basement wall where there's a hole in it because the old rebar has completely rusted through. So basically there appears to be a hole from the outside to the inside. When it rain a lot, water comes in. Will this kit work on this type of problem?
Yes this would work. But you could also use hydraulic cement like water plug.
Great video, how well does this work on cinderblock?? I have a crappy cinderblock addition on my house and it leaks from random spots, I have done a bit of grading outside which has helper but I need to make sure it is 100% so that I can insulate and finish the wall without worries of it leaking... Thanks for any advice you can offer!
It'll work good for cinder block cracks as well. It expands 20X when it's injected into the crack filling and sealing up the entire crack.
speaking as a mason with 25 years of experience, i would NOT use this on a cinderblock wall at all. that is what tuck-pointing is for. this stuff is for fixing fine cracks, cinderblocks have rather large cavities inside them that are rarely filled completely with concrete as they should be. you would end up using at least 20 times more of this product than you should.
@@Smokey420Greenleaf So what they actually did was poured a concrete foundation about 5 feet tall off the footings then capped it with about 4 courses of concrete block, which i believe may be filled with concrete, but I will have to check to find out! I am going to dig down but I'm willing to bet that they only parged down to that concrete/cmu joint and perhaps the parging has failed there. Thanks for your reply!
How wide is the widest crack you've filled with it? I have 2 fairly large ones in am ancient 1920s foundation.
About a half inch for me. This stuff expands 20X after you inject it so it will fill a pretty big crack. Just have to be able to seal up the outside of the crack.
Do you have to grid it smooth or can you leave it?
You can just leave it without grinding.
Looks great!
I would like to take the course. What should I do??
@Javid Ghanbarzadeh The best thing to do would be join my private membership, the course is in there plus you can ask me questions in there. www.theconcreteunderground.com/the-concrete-underground
You can cancel after the first month if you don't need it anymore.
I bought the kit and followed your directions (so far) up until inserting the foam. I tested my epoxy seal with the water bottle and saw that I had to put a little more epoxy around 3 of the ports on the bottom portion of the crack--water came out around the ports. After adding a little more epoxy by those ports, I let it cure for a day. Today, I don't get any water coming out of any ports. I squirt the bottle from the top port and then move down--no water. I'm nervous to go to the next step of inserting foam. Any suggestions? Ports that had water coming out of them on the first test do not have water coming out now. I only added more epoxy to the bottom 3 ports after 1st water test. Why is there no water coming out anywhere now? it's shooting back at me from the port I insert water bottle into.
That means the second coat of epoxy worked
Excellent work..