The truth is that the 16megapixel sensors were great, I have plenty of awesome night pics shot with my (now sold) em10.2; the lower pixel count in low light becomes a blessing
If you hate carrying a heavy tripod with you, make a small bean sack. You need bean, a piece of cloth, a needle and thread. Mine has cca. 40dkg beans in it. You can use almost every vertical or horizontal surface. Push the bean sack to the surface, and your camera to the bean sack and the magic starts. My EM-10 II and bean sack work perfectly in low light.
After 30 years in photography (professionally) I can 100% agree with everything you have said regarding low-light photography . A superb video on the subject.
Love the blind test :) I was surprised I picked the EM5 every single time! I'm clearly a fan of vibrant warm rather than colder blue tones straight out of camera.
A modern proverb I heard somewhere on a photo blog: "Amatures worry about sensor and the newest camera body, pros worry about galss, but masters only think about how to add lighting".
When you see how well the EM5 did... just shows you can have some serious photography power for not a lot of money. Arguably the it's one of the best times to get into Photography.
This was an excellent video. I've literally shot thousands of photographs, at night (or indoors under low light) with both of those cameras, and won a few awards with both. You're absolutely right in that the E-M5 mk1 can capture some amazing low light images. But, if you are planning on printing anything larger than 11x14," noise begins to be noticeable around ISO 1600 on the E-M5; the OM-1 delivers about the same amount of noise somewhere between ISO 3200-6400, plus, the dynamic range has been improved quite a bit. Also, the in-body image stabilization is markedly better on the OM-1, allowing for longer exposures without noticeable blurring from hand shake--something which can be critical with street photography when you're trying to snag something which has suddenly happened. But the most critical advance made with the OM-1 over the E-M5 mk1, is the speed and accuracy of the autofocus in low light. Unfortunately, I can't rely on my own eyes to manually focus a shot any more, so I must rely on whatever camera's autofocus capabilities that I'm using. In low light, the original E-M5 was often painfully slow to focus when the light was really dim. The OM-1 is in a different league all together in this regard. I'm grateful that I can afford the OM-1 (though I'm not burdened with your hefty VAT), but someone with less means could do very well with a good minimally used E-M5 mk1, shooting at night with the right lens--I did. BTW, the P/L 25mm f/1.4 was my go-to lens on that camera as well.
great one again! special thanks for the rain framerates! On holding your breath: As a former singer (can prove it: search for my name and "sound of silence" - since you quoted that song :) i got aware that i intuitively hold my breath to stand still. it reduces the shakes but can cause some jitter. instead i tried it the singer-way: let the exhalation release the action you might get a bit more "slow flowing wobble" but less jitter: 1. breath normally till you "know what you are after", then 2. inhale deeply and aware of the fresh air you have now 3. your body will initiate exhale at an optimum 4. ask your lungs to press the shutter 5. watch and marvel It is always shocking how confident this body is if "I don't MIND"
Honestly, the volume of useful information with examples is amazing. It blows many photographers' value versus fluff ratios completely away - even though they have 1M+ subscribers.
Tip 5 for handheld .. multishot. It’s a variation on the two second timer, but is generally useful for when the shutter speed drops lower. I always shoot with it enabled. If each shot is delayed more than usual, this is a handy prompt that the shutter speed is low.
This wasn't really the question you asked, but I just went for the pics I liked best out of the two choices. Each time I preferred the EM5 bar one. I did attempt one guess as to which was the OM1. I got that wrong 😅 Great pics, tips and of course great video 😊
Me too, At some point I just knew and accepted, that I prefer the 200€ camera pictures. Not for the nostalgic feeling, but because I thought they were better looking (mostly), at least in a youtube video. I'm sure if I looked at the RAWs and tried to process them, I'd prefer the newer model.
At the scale of Social Media it's always difficult to tell. It always seems to come down to what the intented use for the images are. While I could pick out the right camera in most of your shots, I am certain that the RAW image, enlarged for printing would really show the difference. Once again, your point is well made. Buy cheap, have fun and unless you're selling beautiful hi res landscape photos or doing product photography it won't matter. There's something for everyone nowadays. It would be interesting to start one's YT channel with as inexpensive camera as possible and succeed because of your personality and what you have to say to the world. Your videos and professionalism have increased exponentially in quality over the past year or so. Don't stop. Thanks.
Fantastic video - I love a good "guess which is which" video! and I got most of them wrong! 😂 Definitely thought the older camera had better colours and was warmer. I also really liked your edits - I think that made all the pictures really shine!
A friendly correction: do not click and then hold your breath. First hold your breath, and a few counts in gently click. Have been pushing the limits of hand-held long exposures all my life (I'm 70 now!) and one of my famed specialties is hand-held shots down to 1/8th sec with success. Great stuff on your channel!
Hello. Instead of holding your breath while inhaling, it is better to exhale slowly and press down at the end of the exhale. Inspiration increases the heart rate, exhalation decreases it. These are shooting techniques. The best is to exhale slowly, and wait between 2 beats to trigger.
I thought I guessed them right, but after the first half of the video, things changed and couldn’t tell which was which properly. Awesome challenge, would love to see more of them!
I have the Em5 and the Sony A7III the image difference is staggering when used in an environment like a pub or music event. But during the day it’s not that much different ❤ m4/3 are lighter and easier to carry around + the colours the Oly makes are smoother and more pleasing.
Just to say thank you for very helpful videos, including this one. As I struggle to sleep at night, I use the time to watch videos, and yours are always illuminating and pleasant to watch. Thanks!
Excellent vid, thanks. As an ex squaddie, I use 'firing positions' such as kneeling or squatting. Another tip which compliments your 'hold your breath' is to hold your breath between breaths. If you notice, between breaths there's a pause before you breath in again; that's the point to hold your breath. That would also be the point where you fire your rifle, but also works with depressing your shutter release button. Love your two-second timer tip; never thought of that one.
As for the test, I couldn’t find one that I preferred over the other! I have an E-M1 and an E-M10 mk2 and I love them, so that might be why 😅 great video for alleviating GAS during the barrage of sales during Black Friday/November
I think color handling has probably changed a lot. The OM-1 is slightly more blue-biased compared to previous models. I can tell that when compared to my Panasonic G7. Though it's not terrible. It also depends on the lighting and how the auto white balance adapts. In raw, it isn't really an issue. Though I tend to prefer jpegs out of camera.
@@Paul_anderson_creative Most raw processing engines, whether Lightroom, DXO, CaptureOne, etc., will read the info from the file and honor the basic color profile and white balance unless you opt to change it. Not to mention, each sensor and software in a camera can produce different potential in their raw files. So color science exists.
Ok, so I picked the wrong camera most (not all) of the time AND often preferred the EM5. That surprised me, but then I realized effectively what you said…’most cameras for the last many years can produce wonderful photos’…I would add you just need someone who knows how to use it! Just another tool! Nice job Emily..wonder if the Mk111 would have worked much the same as the Mk1. Loved the Star Trek reference btw…And to close a quote from the Matrix (aligns with all the great tips you provided here) : “ I Can Only Show You The Door. You're The One That Has To Walk Through It."
I printed a picture of the EM5 and taped it to my desk until several paydays later I bought this camera the year it was launched only in black because silver was sold out. It has been with me to Canada,Japan, Singapore across the Usa and in the Philippines in all kinds of weather from freezing to hard rains and salt water beaches. Weather sealed easily rinsed off with the WR lens and Even now that I own numerous other Brands from Fuji, Canon, Pentax, Sony and Lumix I still to this day if just running out the door Grab my Trusty friend Olympus EM5 without hesitation knowing I can get both beautiful photos and stabilisation for video. I'm not a one camera does all believer if you can afford other cameras more specialised for specific tasks but if I could only afford one camera to sufficiently do everything this one would be it. I also own the EPL5 and an electronic viewfinder added and picture/video quality is identical. But the view finder cost me as much as a used camera so its a great camera if using the back screen only making it a steal on the used market. Plus MFT lenses fit any MFT camera even the ones from china. I've watched your videos from the first one you ever posted and love that your not prideful you've remained a lovely person and a joy to view
When shooting in low light learn to “spot meter” on the bright areas and dial those highlights back appropriately… -1/3 to -2 letting the shadows go black… after all you are shooting in the dark! Also, all of my MFT cameras are from 2014-2018, I don’t shoot birds in flight, so I see NO reason to upgrade. Not surprised at your results, the image quality I get from the 2014-2018 cameras is sooooo much better than my film days. I tend to use my smaller MFT cameras (i.e. Pen-F) more than my larger MFT cameras.
Great video. Thanks, Emily. The points you made get talked about a lot, but are rarely demonstrated. That said, the OM1 clearly made better final images, but it was good to see the EM5mk1 holding its own. But I'm sure the OM1's RAWs provided quite a bit more latitude for postprocessing, which is important in its own way.
Great video! I appreciate the detailed comparison between the EM5 and OM1. also, I had no idea webcams could be this exciting. The Obsbot Tiny Two sounds like a fantastic addition to any content creator's toolkit:)
IBIS easily makes up for more than anything else for this, more than you can afford for aperture, more than crop vs large, more than wide angle, anything. (maybe not all those combined). It's flipping amazing, I can take 1/2 second or if I do a burst sometimes 1s exposures handheld (with all those stability techniques). Absolutely bonkers.
Good video. I have the EM5 from 2012 and in 2022 i bought the EM1 MarkIII. The quality in the EM1 Mark III is very good . The only thing that i like in EM5 more in the EM1 MarkIII is the tilted screen.
A lot of people make content such as vlogging with phones and go pros these days. It’s worth saying that even the worst micro four thirds cameras are miles ahead of those two options at lowlight. And then if you really need strong lowlight there are specialist cameras like the GH5s which can go toe to toe with the best full frame cameras. I think M43 is a good middle ground between of size/price and quality between full frame and popular smart phones and action cameras.
The EM5 I was just the thing when I wanted an inexpensive mirrorless. Still selling for about $200, it's a terrific value and a very solid performer. I'm planning on acquiring an EM1 II one of these days (c $500), but cannot justify the cost of the new OM1.
This was a great vid. I guessed wrong most of the time. I think because it _looked_ like the OM5 was dealing better with blown-out highlights. I use a 10+ year old camera mostly, so this was a good reminder. I consider myself quite well versed in camera technique knowledge (whether or not I always apply it in the moment) but you taught me a couple of things I didn't know.
Really enjoyed that, I consistently got it wrong every single time. Preferred the look of the cheaper camera in every comparison. Guess there's no need for me to be buying an expensive camera any time soon.
Two things: Completely agree with the breathing tip. My photographer friends are always arguing about whether clicking at breath in or breath out (I’m a breath out type of clicker). Also love your MMPR/Sentai collection. Incredible stuff!
Another tip for hand-held long exposures, set to high-speed burst and hold the shutter down for a bit. Then in post you can select whichever of the 10 frames was sharpest - even if you're moving a bit, usually there'll be a couple that are sharp, and because you're holding the shutter most of the images won't be affected by the movement of your finger.
Nicely done! You've really illustrated how it's how you use the camera than how great the specs are in cameras! This really supports the notion of spending on glass rather than bodies when GAS hits!
Great video Emily, both cameras are capable of great shots. What matters more is subject, composition and "soul" of the image. As Cartier-Bresson said "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept”. I'd much rather look at a less than sharp image that makes me feel something than a tac-sharp ultimately boring or cliché photo.
A friend told me to watch your videos after wanting to get into more budget friendly photography (I shot on Sony Full frame until recently, which I sold recently for funding another hobby) and honestly this is a fantastic channel. Very well delivered content! Thank you! Subscribed 😁
Using the viewfinder is a much stabler position for handheld in low light. I've found not holding my breath, but breathing out as I take the photo is good for avoiding camera shake. The other thing I do when doing handheld shots at night is set my camera to a high frame rate and take a burst of photos and I usually will get a few which don't have shake. However what you can get with a tripod and low iso at night is always much better. Actually often I shoot at night with a high-end point and shoot (like Nikon P series or Canon G series) and a light weight tripod and get very good results.
I completely agree with the way you tackle lowlight. For holidays I use the compact Panasonic G90 or sometimes even the Gm1. The excellent IBIS indeed makes it possible to take excellent night shots handheld with a low shutter speed. And the new noise reduction in Lightroom also produces better results. I also photograph indoor events, parties and concerts, with more movement than with city shots. Then I notice that my SonyA3 with light-sensitive lens produces much less noise and also better color reproduction than my MFT cameras.
This is a great kind of question to ask. One potential difficulty here, though, is simply that these images are significantly reduced in size to fit in a video frame (or, when viewing side-by-side, half of one) and then on top of that compressed into a lossy video codec for UA-cam. And then resized again during playback to fit in whatever portion of whatever screen is being used to view them. It's a neat side-by-side thing to compare, but evaluating stills in a video is really difficult to do effectively because so much data is lost, and in particular resizing downward from original resolution is going to cut back on the visible noise. Would be interesting to see the original shots posted as jpegs on a web page rather than in a video, which would make for a much more clear comparison.
The other tip for hand-held is to make a long exposure and to make a lot of shots of the same subject. The more the shots the higher the probability some of them will turn out sharp.
i got about half of it right, and my main camera is an OM-1 :D just shows that the person and the skill is much more important than the equipment itself!
Managed to guess most correctly although I did start to doubt my self when the edited photos came on screen. I have just picked up a EM5, my main body is an Em1 mk3 I got the 5 mainly as a carry around when not wanting to take my main gear looking forward to using a bit more for night time in the city.
I learned tonight that I'm keeping my E-M5. Its files look similar enough to the new camera that I feel like I don't need to drop two grand on the new body, versus using the money for lenses. Truthfully, the biggest shooting difference is the 2022 EVF vs the 2012 EVF. Great comparison, thank you!!
Then you have the other aspect, Emily:When you actually don’t have two different pictures of the identical scene to compare with each other, the one you show as perhaps being the lesser shot actually is fine! Right?😊 and to tell you the truth, I kept making the wrong choice: I kept choosing the OM 5 as the OM 1 shot!
Thanks Emily, good advice. I used to have gear envy and would listen to influencers who would extol a new camera model that was "100% faster focusing" or "Has amazing improved ISO performance." Sadly, I would sometimes purchase said camera only to find that it was only slightly better in both areas than my previous camera. Lesson learned. There are certain times when I use my giant pro-level DSLR (yes, I still have a DSLR), but generally, a small camera does the trick for me. As an aside I was at a friend's birthday party in a dark restaurant. I took a shot with my iPhone (no flash) and even that gadget produced a very nice photo.
The higher dynamic range makes a visible difference. I once did a low-light shoot with E-M5II (mine) and E-M1II (borrowed), and not only resolution/detail and noise were visibly different - but especially highlight-retention was much better with the E-M1II (an all-around capable camera, so I would possibly look for a used one if I'll need a new camera). YT can't show it, but watching full-screen on a 4K display already does (no pixel-peeping necessary, not for the noise, not for the highlight retention, maybe for resolution/detail).
I’m late to respond, but in a lot of cases I preferred the E-M1 over the OM1. In a transitional switch from Canon FF DSLR where I opted to go with f4 ”L” lenses to reduce lens size I purchased a well underused E-M1. After happily using the E-M1 for a time, along side the Canon, I decided to sell all of the Canon gear and the E-M1 and pick up an E-M1 Mk III. My only regret was not keeping the E-M1 body that I used to qualify my switch. I might add that I do use HR mode for static product photography. It performs brilliantly. When I make prints, I’m rarely disappointed and if I am it’s usually a fault of my own doing.
I am an owner of em10. In terms of picture quality I don't see a huge difference on om1 and g9 II. I am quite curious though about upgrading and currently deciding between those two. On one side I like working with raw files on OM and their computational abilities, but I prefer video quality and luts on g9 II. Can't decide, because both of them suffer from same thing: noise, washed out colours and mush instead of image when it comes to shooting in low light. I guess, I'm just afraid of being disappointed in the end, because it's quite a lot of money for me 😢
I get what you mean!! Neither will set the world alight with low light performance, but having used both the OM1 and G9ii on safari in challenging light and high shutter speeds, I have found the g9ii to be a bit better in low light. I don't know if it's a pay-off of the super fast stacked sensor in the OM1, but I did find some of the OM1 images a bit more grainy and muddy. I could pull back the g9ii images a lot more. But as I say: neither is perfect in this regard! The g9ii sensor is the best I've used in low light on m43, for what that is worth haha
Nice comparison and a real eye opener! I have the E-M5 Mk I and Mk III models. Have to admit, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the two apart in a blind test either. So why did I guy the Mk III? Sucked in by the allure of the 20MP sensor. But I still much prefer the lovely magnesium alloy feel of the Mk I over the plastic Mk III.
For nighttime photography suggest reading Lance Keimig. The rule of thumb there is tripod, /small/ aperture (for sharpness), lowish ISO and long shutter. Of course this falls apart if there is movement you have to freeze and grab the Summilux. B&W can look good at high ISO with its fast film grainy look.
I got more right, than I expected. There is a difference, it's just very expensive to get those tiny bit better results. I shoot concert photography indoors in a dark venue where flash is prohibited every couple of months with micro 4/3 gear. High ISO is unavoidable - especially for the photos of the guests, who are sitting or standing in really murky light conditions. But, I have made it work so far. Next time, I'll be bringing an E-M5 iii (mostly with a 45mm f1.8 lens) for the first time, and I worry quite a bit, if it can perform as well as my GX8. Anyway, I found your video very interesting. Low light photography is always challenging - especially since I only use free software to edit my photos, and it just isn't that good at dealing with high ISO noise. But, that's the deal as a happy amateur.
If you're using an Olympus body you may be able to use the AI Noise Reduction add-on for the (free) OM Workspace software. You'll need to check that your camera hardware is supported but if it is, try it.
@@ianparr1533 The E-M5 iii is indeed supported by the AI Noise Reduction in OM Workspace. I hope it will make up for the low auto ISO compared the GX8, but I have my doubts.
This was a great video. I was able to tell all but 2 images you provided that was from the cheaper and the more expensive camera. TThe two that was missed was from missed/out of focusing. The dynamic range of the newer camera is very noticeable (in RAW of course), although in your edits, the sharpness made the difference since it was very noticeable between the two. But with that said, most people are not looking at photos on a large screen nor do they have them blown up and displayed on the wall. Everything looks great on a small screen. So, a cheap $200 camera is more than enough. Most people even ditched the camera altogether and rely on their camera phones, who now have crazy low f-stops. But as you said, its fun and there is no real need for the most expensive gear if you learn the proper fundamentals in shooting. Great advice and looking forward to more. You have a new subscriber!!
i really liked the EM5's Photos, heck i would even take them over my old 250D from Canon! it really "Shines" in the Competition and once again shows how good old and now affordable Cameras are still holding up...
I get the most stable shots, when I take two deep breaths, exhale slowly and release the shutter before I take the next breath: in this peaceful quiet gap between to breaths I get the best shots. Works much better than holding the breath with lungs full of air.
Great video. Makes me and my brand new camera feel a bit silly. You’re an inspiration. love your photographs no matter what camera you shoot, however expensive, or dinky, or spray painted.
I could just about correctly pick them apart in all of the examples, but it's funny how close they're, considering various companies marketing their highest ISO capabilities, especially the OM1 was claimed to have a 2 stop improvement over the EM1iii 😂. It seems like it barely has a stop over the EM5. Seems like the only way as of now to get better low light performance is to get a bigger sensor camera. Thank you for this very interesting test.
I picked the EM5 in every shot. What a great video and this changed my mind about newer cameras. I’m done buying hoping it will be better, now I will go with fun factor over new sensors.Thanks
Some great practical tips! Another thing I think can be useful to remember is that “small” sensor cameras should be operated at smaller numerical f-stops than “large” sensor cameras to obtain the same depth of field. This means that when taking a night scene, for example, a micro 4/3 camera will be operating at two stops lower ISO than a full frame camera. This is why sensor size has very little effect on practical low light noise performance. However, larger sensors are still better at dealing with scenes with high dynamic ranges - common in night scenes - and will require less careful exposure to avoid blown out highlights etc. Of course it’s all about creativity and skill, but nevertheless understanding these things are important in translating mere settings into how an image ultimately looks.
Pretty consistently picked the EM5, very surprised! Great video. Goes to show how much is down to how you use the tools you have and not how expensive or cutting edge they happen to be.
That was awesome and extremely informative. Was contemplating upgrading my SL3 to the R series but I figured out there's still life in my lady. It all ends up to clever shooting and Lightroom.
Just a few remarks, if I may. Technically low light shooting can be photographing with low shutter speeds in low light, but for me it is using the same faster shutter speeds (eg. 1/160 s) in low light settings, to freeze the movement. But having plenty of shutter speed is equal to having lots of light (photons), so it doesn't really show you what a camera can achive without optimal amount of photons. ETTRing to specular highlights or just for harsh highlights with deep shadows is not low light photography in my book. If you have adequate amount of photons (for the particular subject), any sensor will suffice, as you said. My other observation is, comparing two photographs in a 1080p video, that was highly compressed, doesn't show differences. In this regard, if this is your medium to show your images, the 10 times cheaper will be more than enough. Even a Pixel 4a will be adequate with Nigh Sight. And one last remark: the webcam you advertised was lagging like hell...not stupidly good quality.
Based on your great little video on your EM5, I went looking for an OM-D bargain as an everyday carry. I've just bought an E-M10 ii plus two lenses for under £350! (the extra lens was a bonus). After this video, I can't wait to go out and have some fun.
The only issue for me with EM-5 is that it has no zebra on focus manually. And to enable HDR for post-pricessing, need to dig deep into menu to enable/disable multiple shots with different exposure compensation. And I need a fresh battery. Original already not very predictable. If compare do DSLR, optical viewfinder is a must-have for a sports events. But this is a different story.
Subscribed! 😊 Now I'm curious about Olympus cameras, the oldest most used camera that I own was the fujifilm xt1. Couldn't agree more with you, your knowledge as a photographer comes first and the rest comes second.
I love my MFT Lumix GF6's low light capability! Despite being really old it holds up really well!! I take it to football matches where my A7 would just be too big and I get decent results despite using the higher ISOs (Photoshop's new AI noise thing helps a lot too)
Love your videos and the joyous energy. Watching on a tablet it was pretty impossible to decide, and also, no-one in reality will see two versions of any shot you took, and if the snap is compelling enough, no-one will care.
In target shooting, with firearms, a common stabilization strategy is to use your shoulder strap to stabilize the firearm. It seems odd to me that this strategy isn't very common in photography despite being just as useful and quite the money saver
Sometimes the OM-1 got twice as good picture, but not 10-times and i think that goes for a lot of todays camera. The image quality on fuji X-t1 vs X-t5 is almost the same, or Sony A7 Mark i vs mark iv or even if you take like the canon 5D mark I vs R5. You get a lot more out of the newer cameras like better ISO handling and autofocus and video capabilities and ofcourse the image quality is a bit better, but not with a lot. But as it always has been, its the quality of the lenses that makes the photo good (and ofcours the photographer) not the camera.
Hi Emily, this is a fantastic video! You cover some really important aspects that in a way strip the cameras of their age entirely and pit them against each other in the purest sense. Plus, really great tips for anyone that dispels the fear of "low light" AND... you include really catchy tunes. Thank so much!
My EM-5ii was always good enough for me, paired with a 12-40mm f2.8. I’m a mediocre photographer so quality is less an issue than composition etc. Using current software such as DxO PureRaw 3 levels the playing field with larger sensors anyway. I stopped using the camera because I hated the controls and menu system. Still in a cupboard somewhere so maybe I’ll drag it out and use it again sometime
I've owned two em5 OG. moved on, upgraded, even moved to canon ff. I look back at my old photos and just feel like I miss that camera and the images it made. It wasn't prefect, but it had a nice character in the images.
I still use a 2012 Em5, and get photos that rival today's top cameras. seriously. not just low light. with good glass of course. it may only be worth a couple hundred now (I remember paying $1000 for it in 2012, a LOT of money for a small camera), but I also at the time bought an Em10, vowing to beat the crap out of the 10 to keep the 5 pristine. That strategy worked. Anyhoo....you are correct Ms Millennial. Its the human behind the camera, not necessarily the latest greatest camera, that makes the diff. but you sold your gh6 (which I just bought brand new at an amazing cheap price on promotion) to buy a little camera? no no no. the IQ from the 6 is bloody amazing with the 100mp boost. but anyway, yes, dearie, the original em5, despite the later iterations, is still a very good camera for capturing stills, dark or light conditions. and so small and light, it's a dream to just hang it round your neck and go places. weighs nearly nothing. And i use your fav prime, the Leica 25 f1.4 (also bought years ago) with the em5 to produce amazing bokeh and such. Why waste your money on several thousand dollar/pound super cameras when you can use a decade old camera and still get stellar results, as good as the latest and greatest? good video. Marty Sender You Tube
I would add something as an astrophotographer, with 16mp, the em5 has larger photosite, they collect the light, thats why it's that close of the om1, it's also more forgiven for the shutter speed and the artifact. A GH5S will be far better then an om1-2 in low light situation. The gh5-s has all the pros of a 20mp reflex cause it has the same size of photosite.
when I started with micro four thirds, I read that you should buy the cheapest body as they all have the same sensor. Buying an e-pm2 held me back compared to the OM-1.
i could usually tell which one was the more expensive camera. but i didn't always like the way it looked. the color seemed to be the biggest flip flop for me. but that could just be an issue with settings.
I identified the camera in all but one test (test 4) correctly. That said, I liked the photos taken by the EM5. To answer your question, yes, the OM1 is better. 10x better? No, but, I doubt an EM5, if you could find it brand new in shops now, would be 10x cheaper.
Great low light tips, framed in an interesting comparison of the two cameras. (I could mostly guess which was which, but the quality of the low priced camera was quite good.)
The image quality was a lot close than I thought it would be! Do you have any low light photography tips that I might have missed?
What is the software you use to edit the pictures in this video?
@@elzafir just Adobe Lightroom 😊
@@MicroFourNerds noted
The truth is that the 16megapixel sensors were great, I have plenty of awesome night pics shot with my (now sold) em10.2; the lower pixel count in low light becomes a blessing
If you hate carrying a heavy tripod with you, make a small bean sack. You need bean, a piece of cloth, a needle and thread. Mine has cca. 40dkg beans in it. You can use almost every vertical or horizontal surface. Push the bean sack to the surface, and your camera to the bean sack and the magic starts. My EM-10 II and bean sack work perfectly in low light.
"Buy cheap cameras and go and have fun" that's the best advise in all of the internet.
After 30 years in photography (professionally) I can 100% agree with everything you have said regarding low-light
photography . A superb video on the subject.
Love the blind test :) I was surprised I picked the EM5 every single time! I'm clearly a fan of vibrant warm rather than colder blue tones straight out of camera.
Same here: every single time
Me too, and I have the OM1…🤣
Same. Preferred every time!
I feel like the OG EM5 is one of those special cameras like the Leica M9
E-M5 has by default setting enabled "Keep warm colors" that can be found in White Balance settings.
Disable that and you get WB set to neutral white.
A modern proverb I heard somewhere on a photo blog: "Amatures worry about sensor and the newest camera body, pros worry about galss, but masters only think about how to add lighting".
When you see how well the EM5 did... just shows you can have some serious photography power for not a lot of money. Arguably the it's one of the best times to get into Photography.
“Hello Darkness, My old Friend” Nice musical link 😂😂😂
This was an excellent video. I've literally shot thousands of photographs, at night (or indoors under low light) with both of those cameras, and won a few awards with both. You're absolutely right in that the E-M5 mk1 can capture some amazing low light images. But, if you are planning on printing anything larger than 11x14," noise begins to be noticeable around ISO 1600 on the E-M5; the OM-1 delivers about the same amount of noise somewhere between ISO 3200-6400, plus, the dynamic range has been improved quite a bit. Also, the in-body image stabilization is markedly better on the OM-1, allowing for longer exposures without noticeable blurring from hand shake--something which can be critical with street photography when you're trying to snag something which has suddenly happened. But the most critical advance made with the OM-1 over the E-M5 mk1, is the speed and accuracy of the autofocus in low light. Unfortunately, I can't rely on my own eyes to manually focus a shot any more, so I must rely on whatever camera's autofocus capabilities that I'm using. In low light, the original E-M5 was often painfully slow to focus when the light was really dim. The OM-1 is in a different league all together in this regard. I'm grateful that I can afford the OM-1 (though I'm not burdened with your hefty VAT), but someone with less means could do very well with a good minimally used E-M5 mk1, shooting at night with the right lens--I did. BTW, the P/L 25mm f/1.4 was my go-to lens on that camera as well.
great one again!
special thanks for the rain framerates!
On holding your breath: As a former singer (can prove it: search for my name and "sound of silence" - since you quoted that song :) i got aware that i intuitively hold my breath to stand still. it reduces the shakes but can cause some jitter. instead i tried it the singer-way: let the exhalation release the action
you might get a bit more "slow flowing wobble" but less jitter:
1. breath normally till you "know what you are after", then
2. inhale deeply and aware of the fresh air you have now
3. your body will initiate exhale at an optimum
4. ask your lungs to press the shutter
5. watch and marvel
It is always shocking how confident this body is if "I don't MIND"
Honestly, the volume of useful information with examples is amazing. It blows many photographers' value versus fluff ratios completely away - even though they have 1M+ subscribers.
Tip 5 for handheld .. multishot. It’s a variation on the two second timer, but is generally useful for when the shutter speed drops lower. I always shoot with it enabled. If each shot is delayed more than usual, this is a handy prompt that the shutter speed is low.
This wasn't really the question you asked, but I just went for the pics I liked best out of the two choices. Each time I preferred the EM5 bar one. I did attempt one guess as to which was the OM1. I got that wrong 😅 Great pics, tips and of course great video 😊
Hmm! Thats actually a really interesting point! Is there something inherently more pleasing (maybe nostalgic?) About the older images !
Me too, At some point I just knew and accepted, that I prefer the 200€ camera pictures. Not for the nostalgic feeling, but because I thought they were better looking (mostly), at least in a youtube video. I'm sure if I looked at the RAWs and tried to process them, I'd prefer the newer model.
The OM1 had better highlight detail and colour rendition.
At the scale of Social Media it's always difficult to tell. It always seems to come down to what the intented use for the images are. While I could pick out the right camera in most of your shots, I am certain that the RAW image, enlarged for printing would really show the difference. Once again, your point is well made. Buy cheap, have fun and unless you're selling beautiful hi res landscape photos or doing product photography it won't matter. There's something for everyone nowadays. It would be interesting to start one's YT channel with as inexpensive camera as possible and succeed because of your personality and what you have to say to the world. Your videos and professionalism have increased exponentially in quality over the past year or so. Don't stop. Thanks.
Fantastic video - I love a good "guess which is which" video! and I got most of them wrong! 😂 Definitely thought the older camera had better colours and was warmer. I also really liked your edits - I think that made all the pictures really shine!
A friendly correction: do not click and then hold your breath. First hold your breath, and a few counts in gently click. Have been pushing the limits of hand-held long exposures all my life (I'm 70 now!) and one of my famed specialties is hand-held shots down to 1/8th sec with success. Great stuff on your channel!
I randomly clicked on this. The rain tip alone was worth the view, very nice, something I'll remember.
Can't watch this vid without appreciating how well you know the ins and outs of your autofocus! Great work!
Loved the Liverpool shots ❤ Hits different, coz I've been to the city myself. Crazy but lovely city indeed 🎉
Hello. Instead of holding your breath while inhaling, it is better to exhale slowly and press down at the end of the exhale. Inspiration increases the heart rate, exhalation decreases it. These are shooting techniques. The best is to exhale slowly, and wait between 2 beats to trigger.
I thought I guessed them right, but after the first half of the video, things changed and couldn’t tell which was which properly. Awesome challenge, would love to see more of them!
I have the Em5 and the Sony A7III the image difference is staggering when used in an environment like a pub or music event. But during the day it’s not that much different ❤ m4/3 are lighter and easier to carry around + the colours the Oly makes are smoother and more pleasing.
I sold my A7iii years ago. Just fired up my PC the other night and god damn the portraits on the Sony were incredible.
Get the S5ii and its best of both worlds
Just to say thank you for very helpful videos, including this one. As I struggle to sleep at night, I use the time to watch videos, and yours are always illuminating and pleasant to watch. Thanks!
Excellent vid, thanks. As an ex squaddie, I use 'firing positions' such as kneeling or squatting. Another tip which compliments your 'hold your breath' is to hold your breath between breaths. If you notice, between breaths there's a pause before you breath in again; that's the point to hold your breath. That would also be the point where you fire your rifle, but also works with depressing your shutter release button.
Love your two-second timer tip; never thought of that one.
As for the test, I couldn’t find one that I preferred over the other! I have an E-M1 and an E-M10 mk2 and I love them, so that might be why 😅 great video for alleviating GAS during the barrage of sales during Black Friday/November
I much preferred the images taken with the EM5, they were warmer and I really liked them. OM1 was cold looking. Great test 👏
I think color handling has probably changed a lot. The OM-1 is slightly more blue-biased compared to previous models. I can tell that when compared to my Panasonic G7. Though it's not terrible. It also depends on the lighting and how the auto white balance adapts. In raw, it isn't really an issue. Though I tend to prefer jpegs out of camera.
These are RAWs they are only as 'warm' as the sliders setting..🤷♂️
@@Paul_anderson_creative Most raw processing engines, whether Lightroom, DXO, CaptureOne, etc., will read the info from the file and honor the basic color profile and white balance unless you opt to change it. Not to mention, each sensor and software in a camera can produce different potential in their raw files. So color science exists.
Ok, so I picked the wrong camera most (not all) of the time AND often preferred the EM5. That surprised me, but then I realized effectively what you said…’most cameras for the last many years can produce wonderful photos’…I would add you just need someone who knows how to use it! Just another tool! Nice job Emily..wonder if the Mk111 would have worked much the same as the Mk1. Loved the Star Trek reference btw…And to close a quote from the Matrix (aligns with all the great tips you provided here) : “ I Can Only Show You The Door. You're The One That Has To Walk Through It."
I printed a picture of the EM5 and taped it to my desk until several paydays later I bought this camera the year it was launched only in black because silver was sold out. It has been with me to Canada,Japan, Singapore across the Usa and in the Philippines in all kinds of weather from freezing to hard rains and salt water beaches. Weather sealed easily rinsed off with the WR lens and Even now that I own numerous other Brands from Fuji, Canon, Pentax, Sony and Lumix I still to this day if just running out the door Grab my Trusty friend Olympus EM5 without hesitation knowing I can get both beautiful photos and stabilisation for video. I'm not a one camera does all believer if you can afford other cameras more specialised for specific tasks but if I could only afford one camera to sufficiently do everything this one would be it. I also own the EPL5 and an electronic viewfinder added and picture/video quality is identical. But the view finder cost me as much as a used camera so its a great camera if using the back screen only making it a steal on the used market. Plus MFT lenses fit any MFT camera even the ones from china. I've watched your videos from the first one you ever posted and love that your not prideful you've remained a lovely person and a joy to view
When shooting in low light learn to “spot meter” on the bright areas and dial those highlights back appropriately… -1/3 to -2 letting the shadows go black… after all you are shooting in the dark! Also, all of my MFT cameras are from 2014-2018, I don’t shoot birds in flight, so I see NO reason to upgrade. Not surprised at your results, the image quality I get from the 2014-2018 cameras is sooooo much better than my film days. I tend to use my smaller MFT cameras (i.e. Pen-F) more than my larger MFT cameras.
Great video. Thanks, Emily. The points you made get talked about a lot, but are rarely demonstrated. That said, the OM1 clearly made better final images, but it was good to see the EM5mk1 holding its own. But I'm sure the OM1's RAWs provided quite a bit more latitude for postprocessing, which is important in its own way.
Great video! I appreciate the detailed comparison between the EM5 and OM1. also, I had no idea webcams could be this exciting. The Obsbot Tiny Two sounds like a fantastic addition to any content creator's toolkit:)
I honestly preferred the older camera’s images for almost every shot except for 1. I’m still shooting with my Fuji xt2 for professional headshots.
IBIS easily makes up for more than anything else for this, more than you can afford for aperture, more than crop vs large, more than wide angle, anything. (maybe not all those combined). It's flipping amazing, I can take 1/2 second or if I do a burst sometimes 1s exposures handheld (with all those stability techniques). Absolutely bonkers.
Good video. I have the EM5 from 2012 and in 2022 i bought the EM1 MarkIII. The quality in the EM1 Mark III is very good . The only thing that i like in EM5 more in the EM1 MarkIII is the tilted screen.
A lot of people make content such as vlogging with phones and go pros these days. It’s worth saying that even the worst micro four thirds cameras are miles ahead of those two options at lowlight. And then if you really need strong lowlight there are specialist cameras like the GH5s which can go toe to toe with the best full frame cameras. I think M43 is a good middle ground between of size/price and quality between full frame and popular smart phones and action cameras.
I totally agree! You get so much more quality at a smaller overall package
I love the energy first of all! Everything else is awesome. And yea, grading! Beautiful. Ok, let me continue watching the video :D
The EM5 I was just the thing when I wanted an inexpensive mirrorless. Still selling for about $200, it's a terrific value and a very solid performer. I'm planning on acquiring an EM1 II one of these days (c $500), but cannot justify the cost of the new OM1.
This was a great vid. I guessed wrong most of the time. I think because it _looked_ like the OM5 was dealing better with blown-out highlights. I use a 10+ year old camera mostly, so this was a good reminder. I consider myself quite well versed in camera technique knowledge (whether or not I always apply it in the moment) but you taught me a couple of things I didn't know.
You are absolutely right! Nowadays, I am shooting most of my phots with my S23 Ultra...and it's a lot of fun!😉
Really enjoyed that, I consistently got it wrong every single time.
Preferred the look of the cheaper camera in every comparison.
Guess there's no need for me to be buying an expensive camera any time soon.
Two things:
Completely agree with the breathing tip. My photographer friends are always arguing about whether clicking at breath in or breath out (I’m a breath out type of clicker).
Also love your MMPR/Sentai collection. Incredible stuff!
Another tip for hand-held long exposures, set to high-speed burst and hold the shutter down for a bit. Then in post you can select whichever of the 10 frames was sharpest - even if you're moving a bit, usually there'll be a couple that are sharp, and because you're holding the shutter most of the images won't be affected by the movement of your finger.
Nicely done! You've really illustrated how it's how you use the camera than how great the specs are in cameras! This really supports the notion of spending on glass rather than bodies when GAS hits!
I think that's a great takeaway! Glass is king! 😁📷
@@MicroFourNerds The aphorism is you date the body but marry the lens.
Mask On Nurse Marty (Ret)
you can tell which is cheaper in most of the shots but honestly its not THAT much of a difference. You're so right just get any camera and have fun
Great video Emily, both cameras are capable of great shots. What matters more is subject, composition and "soul" of the image. As Cartier-Bresson said "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept”. I'd much rather look at a less than sharp image that makes me feel something than a tac-sharp ultimately boring or cliché photo.
A friend told me to watch your videos after wanting to get into more budget friendly photography (I shot on Sony Full frame until recently, which I sold recently for funding another hobby) and honestly this is a fantastic channel. Very well delivered content! Thank you! Subscribed 😁
Thank you, and your friend! ☺️
Using the viewfinder is a much stabler position for handheld in low light. I've found not holding my breath, but breathing out as I take the photo is good for avoiding camera shake. The other thing I do when doing handheld shots at night is set my camera to a high frame rate and take a burst of photos and I usually will get a few which don't have shake. However what you can get with a tripod and low iso at night is always much better. Actually often I shoot at night with a high-end point and shoot (like Nikon P series or Canon G series) and a light weight tripod and get very good results.
I completely agree with the way you tackle lowlight. For holidays I use the compact Panasonic G90 or sometimes even the Gm1. The excellent IBIS indeed makes it possible to take excellent night shots handheld with a low shutter speed. And the new noise reduction in Lightroom also produces better results. I also photograph indoor events, parties and concerts, with more movement than with city shots. Then I notice that my SonyA3 with light-sensitive lens produces much less noise and also better color reproduction than my MFT cameras.
This is a great kind of question to ask. One potential difficulty here, though, is simply that these images are significantly reduced in size to fit in a video frame (or, when viewing side-by-side, half of one) and then on top of that compressed into a lossy video codec for UA-cam. And then resized again during playback to fit in whatever portion of whatever screen is being used to view them. It's a neat side-by-side thing to compare, but evaluating stills in a video is really difficult to do effectively because so much data is lost, and in particular resizing downward from original resolution is going to cut back on the visible noise. Would be interesting to see the original shots posted as jpegs on a web page rather than in a video, which would make for a much more clear comparison.
The other tip for hand-held is to make a long exposure and to make a lot of shots of the same subject. The more the shots the higher the probability some of them will turn out sharp.
i got about half of it right, and my main camera is an OM-1 :D just shows that the person and the skill is much more important than the equipment itself!
Exactly! I thought it was quite a fun experiment- I didn't expect it to be as close as it was for sure!
Managed to guess most correctly although I did start to doubt my self when the edited photos came on screen. I have just picked up a EM5, my main body is an Em1 mk3 I got the 5 mainly as a carry around when not wanting to take my main gear looking forward to using a bit more for night time in the city.
I learned tonight that I'm keeping my E-M5. Its files look similar enough to the new camera that I feel like I don't need to drop two grand on the new body, versus using the money for lenses.
Truthfully, the biggest shooting difference is the 2022 EVF vs the 2012 EVF.
Great comparison, thank you!!
Then you have the other aspect, Emily:When you actually don’t have two different pictures of the identical scene to compare with each other, the one you show as perhaps being the lesser shot actually is fine! Right?😊 and to tell you the truth, I kept making the wrong choice: I kept choosing the OM 5 as the OM 1 shot!
Thanks Emily, good advice. I used to have gear envy and would listen to influencers who would extol a new camera model that was "100% faster focusing" or "Has amazing improved ISO performance." Sadly, I would sometimes purchase said camera only to find that it was only slightly better in both areas than my previous camera. Lesson learned. There are certain times when I use my giant pro-level DSLR (yes, I still have a DSLR), but generally, a small camera does the trick for me. As an aside I was at a friend's birthday party in a dark restaurant. I took a shot with my iPhone (no flash) and even that gadget produced a very nice photo.
The higher dynamic range makes a visible difference. I once did a low-light shoot with E-M5II (mine) and E-M1II (borrowed), and not only resolution/detail and noise were visibly different - but especially highlight-retention was much better with the E-M1II (an all-around capable camera, so I would possibly look for a used one if I'll need a new camera). YT can't show it, but watching full-screen on a 4K display already does (no pixel-peeping necessary, not for the noise, not for the highlight retention, maybe for resolution/detail).
I’m late to respond, but in a lot of cases I preferred the E-M1 over the OM1. In a transitional switch from Canon FF DSLR where I opted to go with f4 ”L” lenses to reduce lens size I purchased a well underused E-M1. After happily using the E-M1 for a time, along side the Canon, I decided to sell all of the Canon gear and the E-M1 and pick up an E-M1 Mk III. My only regret was not keeping the E-M1 body that I used to qualify my switch.
I might add that I do use HR mode for static product photography. It performs brilliantly.
When I make prints, I’m rarely disappointed and if I am it’s usually a fault of my own doing.
I am an owner of em10. In terms of picture quality I don't see a huge difference on om1 and g9 II. I am quite curious though about upgrading and currently deciding between those two. On one side I like working with raw files on OM and their computational abilities, but I prefer video quality and luts on g9 II. Can't decide, because both of them suffer from same thing: noise, washed out colours and mush instead of image when it comes to shooting in low light. I guess, I'm just afraid of being disappointed in the end, because it's quite a lot of money for me 😢
I get what you mean!! Neither will set the world alight with low light performance, but having used both the OM1 and G9ii on safari in challenging light and high shutter speeds, I have found the g9ii to be a bit better in low light.
I don't know if it's a pay-off of the super fast stacked sensor in the OM1, but I did find some of the OM1 images a bit more grainy and muddy. I could pull back the g9ii images a lot more.
But as I say: neither is perfect in this regard! The g9ii sensor is the best I've used in low light on m43, for what that is worth haha
Illuminating video, as always. Nice ST line thrown in there!
Nice comparison and a real eye opener! I have the E-M5 Mk I and Mk III models. Have to admit, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the two apart in a blind test either. So why did I guy the Mk III? Sucked in by the allure of the 20MP sensor. But I still much prefer the lovely magnesium alloy feel of the Mk I over the plastic Mk III.
For nighttime photography suggest reading Lance Keimig. The rule of thumb there is tripod, /small/ aperture (for sharpness), lowish ISO and long shutter. Of course this falls apart if there is movement you have to freeze and grab the Summilux.
B&W can look good at high ISO with its fast film grainy look.
I got more right, than I expected. There is a difference, it's just very expensive to get those tiny bit better results.
I shoot concert photography indoors in a dark venue where flash is prohibited every couple of months with micro 4/3 gear. High ISO is unavoidable - especially for the photos of the guests, who are sitting or standing in really murky light conditions. But, I have made it work so far. Next time, I'll be bringing an E-M5 iii (mostly with a 45mm f1.8 lens) for the first time, and I worry quite a bit, if it can perform as well as my GX8.
Anyway, I found your video very interesting. Low light photography is always challenging - especially since I only use free software to edit my photos, and it just isn't that good at dealing with high ISO noise. But, that's the deal as a happy amateur.
If you're using an Olympus body you may be able to use the AI Noise Reduction add-on for the (free) OM Workspace software. You'll need to check that your camera hardware is supported but if it is, try it.
@@ianparr1533 The E-M5 iii is indeed supported by the AI Noise Reduction in OM Workspace. I hope it will make up for the low auto ISO compared the GX8, but I have my doubts.
This was a great video. I was able to tell all but 2 images you provided that was from the cheaper and the more expensive camera. TThe two that was missed was from missed/out of focusing. The dynamic range of the newer camera is very noticeable (in RAW of course), although in your edits, the sharpness made the difference since it was very noticeable between the two. But with that said, most people are not looking at photos on a large screen nor do they have them blown up and displayed on the wall. Everything looks great on a small screen. So, a cheap $200 camera is more than enough. Most people even ditched the camera altogether and rely on their camera phones, who now have crazy low f-stops. But as you said, its fun and there is no real need for the most expensive gear if you learn the proper fundamentals in shooting. Great advice and looking forward to more. You have a new subscriber!!
Big thank you! I recently picked up the OM-D E m5 and I had my doubts. This review/demo and your top 10 #1 video have changed my mind.
i really liked the EM5's Photos, heck i would even take them over my old 250D from Canon! it really "Shines" in the Competition and once again shows how good old and now affordable Cameras are still holding up...
I get the most stable shots, when I take two deep breaths, exhale slowly and release the shutter before I take the next breath: in this peaceful quiet gap between to breaths I get the best shots. Works much better than holding the breath with lungs full of air.
Great video. Makes me and my brand new camera feel a bit silly. You’re an inspiration. love your photographs no matter what camera you shoot, however expensive, or dinky, or spray painted.
I could just about correctly pick them apart in all of the examples, but it's funny how close they're, considering various companies marketing their highest ISO capabilities, especially the OM1 was claimed to have a 2 stop improvement over the EM1iii 😂. It seems like it barely has a stop over the EM5. Seems like the only way as of now to get better low light performance is to get a bigger sensor camera. Thank you for this very interesting test.
I picked the EM5 in every shot. What a great video and this changed my mind about newer cameras. I’m done buying hoping it will be better, now I will go with fun factor over new sensors.Thanks
Great video. I ended up selecting the EM5 shots every time in your tests. 🙂
Some great practical tips! Another thing I think can be useful to remember is that “small” sensor cameras should be operated at smaller numerical f-stops than “large” sensor cameras to obtain the same depth of field. This means that when taking a night scene, for example, a micro 4/3 camera will be operating at two stops lower ISO than a full frame camera. This is why sensor size has very little effect on practical low light noise performance. However, larger sensors are still better at dealing with scenes with high dynamic ranges - common in night scenes - and will require less careful exposure to avoid blown out highlights etc. Of course it’s all about creativity and skill, but nevertheless understanding these things are important in translating mere settings into how an image ultimately looks.
Pretty consistently picked the EM5, very surprised! Great video. Goes to show how much is down to how you use the tools you have and not how expensive or cutting edge they happen to be.
That was awesome and extremely informative. Was contemplating upgrading my SL3 to the R series but I figured out there's still life in my lady. It all ends up to clever shooting and Lightroom.
Love your channel - always interesting, always entertaining, always informative.
Just a few remarks, if I may. Technically low light shooting can be photographing with low shutter speeds in low light, but for me it is using the same faster shutter speeds (eg. 1/160 s) in low light settings, to freeze the movement. But having plenty of shutter speed is equal to having lots of light (photons), so it doesn't really show you what a camera can achive without optimal amount of photons. ETTRing to specular highlights or just for harsh highlights with deep shadows is not low light photography in my book. If you have adequate amount of photons (for the particular subject), any sensor will suffice, as you said. My other observation is, comparing two photographs in a 1080p video, that was highly compressed, doesn't show differences. In this regard, if this is your medium to show your images, the 10 times cheaper will be more than enough. Even a Pixel 4a will be adequate with Nigh Sight. And one last remark: the webcam you advertised was lagging like hell...not stupidly good quality.
Based on your great little video on your EM5, I went looking for an OM-D bargain as an everyday carry. I've just bought an E-M10 ii plus two lenses for under £350! (the extra lens was a bonus). After this video, I can't wait to go out and have some fun.
Hi Emily, I enjoyed your vlog. I found great tips from it
The only issue for me with EM-5 is that it has no zebra on focus manually. And to enable HDR for post-pricessing, need to dig deep into menu to enable/disable multiple shots with different exposure compensation. And I need a fresh battery. Original already not very predictable.
If compare do DSLR, optical viewfinder is a must-have for a sports events. But this is a different story.
I love how you teach us with your videos. Hope to learn more from you. Subscribed!
I like watching your videos. So simple about photography!
For every single photo I preferred the EM5. Off to MPB to buy one now...
You have a Kenesis keyboard! So do I. Also, I super love your channel and I don't even own any micro four thirds gear, so good job!
That is high praise indeed! Thank you! Yes I adore my kenesis, I used to suffer from rsi from typing a lot and this is sooooo amazing now
Subscribed! 😊 Now I'm curious about Olympus cameras, the oldest most used camera that I own was the fujifilm xt1. Couldn't agree more with you, your knowledge as a photographer comes first and the rest comes second.
A great comparison and fantastic the way the way the EM5 did.
Em5 has a bit of Green tint and less details in shadows, so it really easy to tell, but it still a good camera
I love my MFT Lumix GF6's low light capability! Despite being really old it holds up really well!! I take it to football matches where my A7 would just be too big and I get decent results despite using the higher ISOs (Photoshop's new AI noise thing helps a lot too)
Keep making videos! really enjoy them!
Love your videos and the joyous energy. Watching on a tablet it was pretty impossible to decide, and also, no-one in reality will see two versions of any shot you took, and if the snap is compelling enough, no-one will care.
In target shooting, with firearms, a common stabilization strategy is to use your shoulder strap to stabilize the firearm. It seems odd to me that this strategy isn't very common in photography despite being just as useful and quite the money saver
Sometimes the OM-1 got twice as good picture, but not 10-times and i think that goes for a lot of todays camera. The image quality on fuji X-t1 vs X-t5 is almost the same, or Sony A7 Mark i vs mark iv or even if you take like the canon 5D mark I vs R5. You get a lot more out of the newer cameras like better ISO handling and autofocus and video capabilities and ofcourse the image quality is a bit better, but not with a lot. But as it always has been, its the quality of the lenses that makes the photo good (and ofcours the photographer) not the camera.
Hi Emily, this is a fantastic video! You cover some really important aspects that in a way strip the cameras of their age entirely and pit them against each other in the purest sense. Plus, really great tips for anyone that dispels the fear of "low light" AND... you include really catchy tunes. Thank so much!
My EM-5ii was always good enough for me, paired with a 12-40mm f2.8. I’m a mediocre photographer so quality is less an issue than composition etc. Using current software such as DxO PureRaw 3 levels the playing field with larger sensors anyway. I stopped using the camera because I hated the controls and menu system. Still in a cupboard somewhere so maybe I’ll drag it out and use it again sometime
I've owned two em5 OG. moved on, upgraded, even moved to canon ff. I look back at my old photos and just feel like I miss that camera and the images it made. It wasn't prefect, but it had a nice character in the images.
I still use a 2012 Em5, and get photos that rival today's top cameras. seriously. not just low light. with good glass of course. it may only be worth a couple hundred now (I remember paying $1000 for it in 2012, a LOT of money for a small camera), but I also at the time bought an Em10, vowing to beat the crap out of the 10 to keep the 5 pristine. That strategy worked. Anyhoo....you are correct Ms Millennial. Its the human behind the camera, not necessarily the latest greatest camera, that makes the diff. but you sold your gh6 (which I just bought brand new at an amazing cheap price on promotion) to buy a little camera? no no no. the IQ from the 6 is bloody amazing with the 100mp boost. but anyway, yes, dearie, the original em5, despite the later iterations, is still a very good camera for capturing stills, dark or light conditions. and so small and light, it's a dream to just hang it round your neck and go places. weighs nearly nothing. And i use your fav prime, the Leica 25 f1.4 (also bought years ago) with the em5 to produce amazing bokeh and such. Why waste your money on several thousand dollar/pound super cameras when you can use a decade old camera and still get stellar results, as good as the latest and greatest? good video. Marty Sender You Tube
I found I picked the EM5 most of the time, only occasionally the OM 1! Thanks for this enlightening video, Emily🇦🇺
I would add something as an astrophotographer, with 16mp, the em5 has larger photosite, they collect the light, thats why it's that close of the om1, it's also more forgiven for the shutter speed and the artifact. A GH5S will be far better then an om1-2 in low light situation. The gh5-s has all the pros of a 20mp reflex cause it has the same size of photosite.
Full frame* not reflex.
when I started with micro four thirds, I read that you should buy the cheapest body as they all have the same sensor. Buying an e-pm2 held me back compared to the OM-1.
i could usually tell which one was the more expensive camera. but i didn't always like the way it looked. the color seemed to be the biggest flip flop for me. but that could just be an issue with settings.
I absolutely love this test you did a brilliant job! Shout out to the EM5. I love seeing older cameras delivering the good.
Thanks for your video. EM5 is holding up well enough
I identified the camera in all but one test (test 4) correctly. That said, I liked the photos taken by the EM5. To answer your question, yes, the OM1 is better. 10x better? No, but, I doubt an EM5, if you could find it brand new in shops now, would be 10x cheaper.
Great low light tips, framed in an interesting comparison of the two cameras. (I could mostly guess which was which, but the quality of the low priced camera was quite good.)