Absolutely, take them out at the end otherwise you push the shit into the threads obviously..... He said you don't have to take the chokes out each time, however especially in hot weather, the condensation that collects behind the chokes, can easily and quickly cause corrosion, this section sometimes isn't chrome lined depending on the manufacturer.
Not an ideal procedure here -Brushing debris into choke threads, should always clean barrels with chokes in and threads seperately - no choke grease?? - brushing reciever face up so pushing fouling in around firing pins X - no grease on hinge and bite areas?
A common mistake I've noticed when observing gun cleaning is a lack of cleaning, i.e. removing dirt. Push the brushes through the barrel and out the other end to remove the dirt, don't just rub it up and down. Use an aerosol or better - an air line to blow the dirt off the gun, don't just saturate it in oil and then rub it in with a brush. Also, be sure to thoroughly clean the choke threads on the barrel, they are super fine meaning the slightest spec of dirt will bind up the chokes when screwing them back in and taking them out next time.
Thank you for the Video. But I would never clean the Bore without the Chokes. I clean them seperate afterwards, lube them properly and put them back into cleaned Threats.
Doesn't your method push burnt powder muck into the choke threads at the end of the barrels. Also this method doesn't deal with the plastic and lead streaks in the bore.
Agree that ramming a phosphor bronze brush across unprotected internal choke threads is a bad idea. Leave the chokes in for this stage, remove chokes and clean their threads afterwards.
I'm sorry to say this and I mean no offense, you did ask!!!!...this is another video with glaringly questionable advice and in this case, promoting extremely bad practice.
Magic bore , blue towel ,micro fibre cloth ,teague choke grease and an air line and napier gun oil is what I use. Cleaning a guns bore as soon as you finish shooting makes things easier once it’s been on there a few hours it gets harder.
I spray bore cleaner down the inside of the barrels then with oily cloth wound on a jag before the phosphor bronze is inserted, finishing with the mop.
My only difference is I clean with chokes in, then remove, clean threads internal and external with toothbrush, grease hinge and threads of choke with liqui moly grease
I’m less than a year in to shotgun ownership, I’ve watched a few of these videos and have adopted a similar routine. I spray bit of gun oil down the barrel (with chokes still in) bronze brush the barrels, then patch (or if kitchen roll if I’m feeling particularly tight) on the jag to get the thick of the crud out and then polish up with the mop. Occasionally I’ll take the chokes out after cleaning the barrel and give the threads and choke a good rub over, little bit of gun oil when the go back in. Spray the action and give it a good scrub with kitchen roll or a rag then clean outside both barrel and action trigger etc with oil and cloth. Seems to be working for me.
leave the chokes in spray with bore cleaner leave a few mins then use your brush to dislodge all the crud clean the barrels then take the chokes out and clean oil and replace this way you do not push crud in to the threads of the barrels thats how i do it
WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor a protectant. It's purely a "water displacement" fluid; hence the WD. It's too thin to act as a lubricant or as a protectant. Due to the fact it being thin will eventually eat off your wood finish. You would be far better served using actual lubricants and protectants.
David as a novice shooter I have enjoyed your tutorials very much. However exposing the internal barrel threads to the grunge you are attempting to remove seems like an oversight to me. I feel the overwhelming number of comments deserves a pinned response/explanation.
I leave chokes in,once ive cleaned the barrells I take them out and clean them (682 gold E) but an excellent video nonetheless. Thanks for putting it up!
12ga bore snakes make this all much easier, shooters choice red grease for the threads on the chokes and on the parts of the action that open and close where there is metal to metal contact a very thin film is all you need, i am a huge fan of Hornady one shot - it is a dry carrier lube, I cant remember the last time i use actual oil on a firearm
I'm surprised you didn't have to clean the inside of the chokes? Inspit of the fact I use titanium coated chokes, I get a layer of smeared plastic from the wads that I typically have to scrape out with a narrow blade knife.
If I dont use my gun for a long time I like to put a little oil film (with the soft brush) on the insinde of the barrel (rust protection). But beware: Clean the oil out before your first shot! Otherwise your get an oil shot.
First, modern shotguns today have barrels composed of Chrome Moly Steel alloys, ALL of which are moderately Rust Resistant. Basically you have to drop them in Salt Water and leave it in the barrels for a week or more before rust will become noticeable. I will also note that since about 2010 most shotgun barrels are Chrome Lined to allow the use of steel shot and this provides another level of rust resistance. It's the antiques that are problematic for rust and the answer for this is cleaning after every shooting session and the application of a CLP solution such as Ballistol immediately after shooting is wise. In addition the use of gun oil in the barrels to provide protection against rust. To be blunt antique barrels that are bone dry will rust. So run a clean patch with fresh oil on it thru the barrels before putting the gun away for storage. Two, Chokes will build up plastic rubbed off from each wad passing thru the choke. If you shoot ammunition with plastic wads you want to leave the chokes in place when you use a bronze brush on the barrels. I'll also not that 25 strokes per barrel tube for each box of ammo used will scrub the chambers and chokes free of plastic build up. I will also note that extended forcing cones in the barrels build up plastic from wads at a much slower rate than the more abrupt forcing cones common before 2005. The means that Browning Invector and Beretta Mobil choked barrels do require more attention to the chambers than later Invector Plus or Optima HP barrels.
Sorry David but I didn’t see you pop any grease or oil on the hinge pin, Ok you used an oily rag but that’s not really lubing the main parts is it, It really look like the gun was put back together dry, Not good practice that
I know people who NEVER scrub their barrels and there’s never any rusting. Unless you shoot in the rain, modern barrels are not going to corrode. I personally like to clean the “ crud” out of the action area after each outing but don’t clean the inside but a couple of times a year. I occasionally remove choke and I ALWAYS wipe the gun down
What I want you to do is after you use your boresnake, push a clean cloth or paper towel through the barrel. Guarantee you that it's still dirty. I use bore cleaner, or Carburetor cleaner and spray in the barrels. Let sit for 4 0r 5 minutes. Then run the brush through following up with paper towels. Barrel will be spotless. Carburetor cleaner melts all of the plastic. Next steps not required just something else that I do. I wet a patch or paper towel with denatured alcohol push through the barrels and I promise you your barrels will be squeaky clean every single time. Have a good one and May God bless y'all
When cleaning the barrels always leave the chokes in the barrels to prevent dirt getting into the threads,then remove and clean the chokes.
Leave the chokes in when cleaning the barrels surely?
I prefer to brush the barrels before removing the chokes in order to not damage the thread.
Absolutely, take them out at the end otherwise you push the shit into the threads obviously.....
He said you don't have to take the chokes out each time, however especially in hot weather, the condensation that collects behind the chokes, can easily and quickly cause corrosion, this section sometimes isn't chrome lined depending on the manufacturer.
I clean my gun every single time I shoot it!
Not an ideal procedure here
-Brushing debris into choke threads, should always clean barrels with chokes in and threads seperately
- no choke grease??
- brushing reciever face up so pushing fouling in around firing pins X
- no grease on hinge and bite areas?
A common mistake I've noticed when observing gun cleaning is a lack of cleaning, i.e. removing dirt. Push the brushes through the barrel and out the other end to remove the dirt, don't just rub it up and down. Use an aerosol or better - an air line to blow the dirt off the gun, don't just saturate it in oil and then rub it in with a brush. Also, be sure to thoroughly clean the choke threads on the barrel, they are super fine meaning the slightest spec of dirt will bind up the chokes when screwing them back in and taking them out next time.
Thank you for the Video. But I would never clean the Bore without the Chokes. I clean them seperate afterwards, lube them properly and put them back into cleaned Threats.
Doesn't your method push burnt powder muck into the choke threads at the end of the barrels. Also this method doesn't deal with the plastic and lead streaks in the bore.
I was thinking the same thing.
Left more questions than answers 😂
Agree that ramming a phosphor bronze brush across unprotected internal choke threads is a bad idea. Leave the chokes in for this stage, remove chokes and clean their threads afterwards.
I'm sorry to say this and I mean no offense, you did ask!!!!...this is another video with glaringly questionable advice and in this case, promoting extremely bad practice.
Magic bore , blue towel ,micro fibre cloth ,teague choke grease and an air line and napier gun oil is what I use. Cleaning a guns bore as soon as you finish shooting makes things easier once it’s been on there a few hours it gets harder.
I spray bore cleaner down the inside of the barrels then with oily cloth wound on a jag before the phosphor bronze is inserted, finishing with the mop.
You don’t clean the interior of the chokes?
No grease on the hinge?
Very useful thank you, I love your work
My only difference is I clean with chokes in, then remove, clean threads internal and external with toothbrush, grease hinge and threads of choke with liqui moly grease
Britbore mops and proferrum, quick easy and comprehensive, and I’ve cleaned hundreds of guns as a loader/ instructor in the season in all weathers.
thanks for your comment.
I’m less than a year in to shotgun ownership, I’ve watched a few of these videos and have adopted a similar routine. I spray bit of gun oil down the barrel (with chokes still in) bronze brush the barrels, then patch (or if kitchen roll if I’m feeling particularly tight) on the jag to get the thick of the crud out and then polish up with the mop. Occasionally I’ll take the chokes out after cleaning the barrel and give the threads and choke a good rub over, little bit of gun oil when the go back in.
Spray the action and give it a good scrub with kitchen roll or a rag then clean outside both barrel and action trigger etc with oil and cloth. Seems to be working for me.
Try some twobyfour, yes you have to cut them yourself but really cheap alternative to patches and better than kitchen roll
Spectrum alert 😂
“Bowels” cleaning??? 😂
I love using Bore Snakes as part of the cleaning as it pulls the dirt out the front of barrel.
leave the chokes in spray with bore cleaner leave a few mins then use your brush to dislodge all the crud clean the barrels then take the chokes out and clean oil and replace this way you do not push crud in to the threads of the barrels thats how i do it
Can I use my own old toothbrush or do I have to pinch the wife's or girlfriends ...classic , made me smile 😁
I spray a bit WD 40 down the pipes then clean with the bronze brush and then with a woolbrush with a bit of WD40 to keep the barrels from rusting.
WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor a protectant. It's purely a "water displacement" fluid; hence the WD. It's too thin to act as a lubricant or as a protectant. Due to the fact it being thin will eventually eat off your wood finish. You would be far better served using actual lubricants and protectants.
I was told WD40 removes the blueing from the barrels and never to go anywhere near a gun with it
I actually made good experiences with WD40.
I don't use it as a lubricant but to keep water away from the metal.
I have been using WD-40 for over 40 years with great results! for those of you who don't like it, use something else.
@@lucastolson3570 my words m8,my words.
David as a novice shooter I have enjoyed your tutorials very much. However exposing the internal barrel threads to the grunge you are attempting to remove seems like an oversight to me. I feel the overwhelming number of comments deserves a pinned response/explanation.
Oh dear! 🙄
I need to get one of those foster bronze brushes
😂
I leave chokes in,once ive cleaned the barrells I take them out and clean them (682 gold E) but an excellent video nonetheless. Thanks for putting it up!
12ga bore snakes make this all much easier, shooters choice red grease for the threads on the chokes and on the parts of the action that open and close where there is metal to metal contact a very thin film is all you need, i am a huge fan of Hornady one shot - it is a dry carrier lube, I cant remember the last time i use actual oil on a firearm
Good video,thanks
Legia is wood safe so not gonna harm stock is it ??
I'm surprised you didn't have to clean the inside of the chokes? Inspit of the fact I use titanium coated chokes, I get a layer of smeared plastic from the wads that I typically have to scrape out with a narrow blade knife.
If I dont use my gun for a long time I like to put a little oil film (with the soft brush) on the insinde of the barrel (rust protection). But beware: Clean the oil out before your first shot! Otherwise your get an oil shot.
Can we use a bike chain cleaning spray first?
First, modern shotguns today have barrels composed of Chrome Moly Steel alloys, ALL of which are moderately Rust Resistant. Basically you have to drop them in Salt Water and leave it in the barrels for a week or more before rust will become noticeable. I will also note that since about 2010 most shotgun barrels are Chrome Lined to allow the use of steel shot and this provides another level of rust resistance. It's the antiques that are problematic for rust and the answer for this is cleaning after every shooting session and the application of a CLP solution such as Ballistol immediately after shooting is wise. In addition the use of gun oil in the barrels to provide protection against rust. To be blunt antique barrels that are bone dry will rust. So run a clean patch with fresh oil on it thru the barrels before putting the gun away for storage.
Two, Chokes will build up plastic rubbed off from each wad passing thru the choke. If you shoot ammunition with plastic wads you want to leave the chokes in place when you use a bronze brush on the barrels. I'll also not that 25 strokes per barrel tube for each box of ammo used will scrub the chambers and chokes free of plastic build up. I will also note that extended forcing cones in the barrels build up plastic from wads at a much slower rate than the more abrupt forcing cones common before 2005. The means that Browning Invector and Beretta Mobil choked barrels do require more attention to the chambers than later Invector Plus or Optima HP barrels.
Chromoly steel is VERY rust prone, not rust resistant. You've got it backward. You might be talking about chrome PLATED bores. Two different things.
David we use Q tips and bore snakes mostly, not used tooth brushes but will have a go. Is it necessary to lightly oil the thread on chokes?
Sorry David but I didn’t see you pop any grease or oil on the hinge pin,
Ok you used an oily rag but that’s not really lubing the main parts is it,
It really look like the gun was put back together dry,
Not good practice that
What was name of wax
What about plastic that gets stuck in the barrels
Does the Yildiz Pro nor have a lacquer finish. So no need to wax??
Love video, new to the sport. Just purchased my shotgun today. What product do I use on my stock to protect the wood ?
Thanks for your comment.
Use BLO on the woodwork if an oil finish, if varnished then furniture polish on a soft cloth will do the job.
Ok
Poor way to clean a gun!!!
I know people who NEVER scrub their barrels and there’s never any rusting. Unless you shoot in the rain, modern barrels are not going to corrode. I personally like to clean the “ crud” out of the action area after each outing but don’t clean the inside but a couple of times a year. I occasionally remove choke and I ALWAYS wipe the gun down
cleaning with chokes out and hell you pulled them tight with ratchet 🤨
I'll give you 7 out of 10 for your gun cleaning regime.
you're too generous
@@AaronsAnglingAdventures hello , yes you are right , l was feeling generous, actually his gun cleaning regime is clumsy & woeful .
I use a bore snake to clean the inside of my barrel is that a good idea?
What I want you to do is after you use your boresnake, push a clean cloth or paper towel through the barrel. Guarantee you that it's still dirty. I use bore cleaner, or Carburetor cleaner and spray in the barrels. Let sit for 4 0r 5 minutes. Then run the brush through following up with paper towels. Barrel will be spotless. Carburetor cleaner melts all of the plastic. Next steps not required just something else that I do. I wet a patch or paper towel with denatured alcohol push through the barrels and I promise you your barrels will be squeaky clean every single time. Have a good one and May God bless y'all
Thanks you I watch your channel all the time keep up the good work
A service ever year on a gun , a load of rubbish that is sorry
Another great video.
Bravo David