Get the 6ch Radio Transmitter & Receiver We Now Use Here - www.banggood.com/custlink/mD33VJz8zU It's got a built in Gyro, ABS Braking, and a 500M Range For Under $30!
Good tips! Broken a few of those myself lol. Also I noticed you mentioned that arrma now asks for 50c batteries back in the v2 days it was 35c, interesting. The one that people told me about but I cheaped out on was the tools. I can't begin to describe the difference a good set of tools makes. Trust me if your reading this get the tools!
Holy S*** I never thought about the size of the battery pack being a direct cause for puffing. I use to run 3000 packs of whatever was cheaper and after buying a talion and limitless I started buying 2x of either 3s 50 - 100c 4500mah for the talion or 2x 4s 6000 100C for the limitless and none of my batteries have puffed up but I thought it was because I was taking better care of them. Thanks for the help and keep up the good work!
Thank you for explaining how the power system works. I have so many questions regarding this issue being new to the hobby. Hopefully I’ll have success with my build.
Good stuff Richie! Those damn battery adapters...gonna change all my rigs and batteries to XT60 very soon. Enjoying the car I won from your drawing, it's a great training rig for newbies!
Good one, mate. Maybe the "buying the wrong batteries" could be highlighted/expanded a little and emphasizing the compatability of the size of the battery and the battery compartment. C-rating and mah is important, but I think a lot of beginners forget to check the actual physical size of the battery, and are just looking at the specs (c-rating, mah) ... and therefore getting the wrong battery that won't fit. .... Nontheless I got a battery tip for myself in your video: I was actually planning on buying the Typhon and use the Awanfi 2S 5000 x2 and Awanfi 3S 3000 x2 in it. But I see now that even with the 50C high initial C-rating the 3000 mah won't cut it. So that tip was, unintentionally, designed for me specifically :-)
Glad that tip helped out on the awanfi batteries, it's a good point you made on the battery sizes, this is a big issue with traxxas cars and I've had batteries in which would do well in the cars but don't fit! Even a lot of 3s packs I've got won't fit my traxxas cars.
Are you using loctite on the pinion gear? If not use some blue loctite on it, and leave it 30 mins or so to make sure it's properly set, this should stop the pinion coming loose
@@taevy12 not sure what to suggest in that case, although I've got the same problem at the minute on my losi XL-E, you could check the motor shaft to see it's running straight which is my next step on the losi.
Big tip for first buyers don’t bash for a long time. Stick to learning how an rc car drives on every surface. Grassy hilly areas are killers because a wrong bump can send the car out of control easily and unless your experienced you tend to freeze which usually ends up with letting off the gas , the nose come down and flip bang flip roll bang. Start slow, speed rips any rcs apart. Once your confidence is up try more speed. Also reality is arrma is the toughest outta box and if you are about to spend 400$ on an rc car probably should save more money and get the better rc car. Also crawlers are a bad first choice because they get boring fast. Crawlers are for enthusiasts that want a scale look for filming. Watch out for water too because bearings get ruined quickly. And remember to have fun and maintain expectations, watching rich duperbash or other really experienced drivers will have your expectations out of whack and you’ll end up breaking your prized possession.
1# tip, font let newbie friends drive ur rc,I let my friend drive my Traxxas at an open park and she still flew into a concrete box, wheel stripped out one thread and bent the tire so now front tires don't point same direction, and my brother ran it into 2 parked cars, cracked 3 parts, steering bell crank, front skid plate and chassis! now I gotta basically rebuild my truck, lucky I only had one lithium in it, when I pit two imma put that wheely bar to use to make those selfish dumb caps jealous ! gonna upgrade and put a sick truck shell(roller cage included) on the brushless EMaxx! tighten suspension, high jumps here we come!
Oh mine haven't broken as such but they lose their 'edge' and slip in the hexs, and this results in the hex getting stripped. I use them a lot for day to day use though
AJ I do use a microphone on the camera but it's a directional one, I can't win as when I use that filming down at JJ customs it picks up all of the noise from around the store.
Richie, I respect your content but I would have to disagree on a couple of points if I may, I don’t personally think the high end drivers you suggest are necessary, just do the right thing and use a small torch to release the loctite. Also kind of surprised you would use a pressure cleaner, the electronics on these things are pretty delicate, along with decals, bodies etc. Sorry for bringing the negativity mate 👍🍺
No worries, on a lot of the arrmas there's a lot of plastic that I'd worry about melting with the heat, I've tried heat on the arrmas before but found the amount I had to apply on the red loctite screws was excessive (And only workeed 50% of the time). I had resisted getting the mip ones for months but when I did I've not had an issue removing stuff. On the pressure washer I figure it this way, nearly all of my cars are waterproof, although I would agree care needs to be taken around the decals, I have the spray set on wide to keep the jet pressure low. All feedback is much appreciated though.
You can buy the wrong car but you’ll want other cars my 2wd rustler sits on the shelf more than my 4x4 slash x-01 and 4tec 2.0 even tho the rustler is fully built and ready for any beating I want to throw at it they all do different things which I was totally surprised by getting into the hobby
Start off small. Get a Fyo3 and leave it stock. I have 4-5 of these truck.($40-ea)for over a year. The STOCK ones are fine...I just have it on higher C rating Li on to give more gusto. The stock batteries will crap out....that's why it was on sale fron only $40.lmao And deifinitely take 5 min reviews with a grain of salt..I have a couple of trucks that's borderline....POS..such as the REDCAT volcano pro...it's marketed under different brand.. such HDS, ECX Durutrax..ect..I only got it for $107 (brushless)..It's ok..if you dont bash it hard. it has crappy metal parts..the cups will wear,,quick..the dogbone will bend ..quick.. it went cattie wongust after the first hard lading...So I just hack it...and made it to an on road..45-50 mph on 3s around hood...without wearing out my tires.lmao it's the samething with traxxas..Ive own plenty to know better ...they're MONEY PITS..even in stock ..which is RETARDED..if I had to spend that much money up front and still need to UPGRADE to make it use able...but that's was what my local hobby shop carried at the time..i used to make trips 1-2 p/week just to fit it...FFS I had a couple $1500 Savage..I probably spent over $1k on the T maxx. and it was still in stock spec...even the same rod will stretch in traaxx engine..FFS. The 2-ea t maxx i have now...have atleast $1k total worth of up grade parts on them... LIPO..CHARGE it OUTSIDE.....GET A FIREBOX. Ive had a couple exploded while on the charger TIRES...holy shiet..The god damn foam insert exploded out of wheels and launch 100 feet on my RC8 converted to brushless....I never had that happened on nitro... ( .247 XTM..which was the most powerful motor in it's class on 15%-20% nitro).lmao NONE of My Nitro ..savage, MGT. Tmaxx...nitro...will do a back flip from a stand still on over powered nitro. ALL my BRUSHLESS trucks/buggies WILL.... Brushless motor....READ the instructions..They're all going to have different rating.. Im on 4076 2250KV...it's rated at only 5s MAX..120A ocday....4s max... You'll be sorry if you run it on 6S.....the same 4076 1600 KV can run on 6S.. BUYER beware....seller of the same 120A esc...will advertise it as 2-8s...lmao I KNOW BETTER...the instructions says....2-4s I pay more for HIGHER C ratings LIPO...4s 50C Lower batteries C rating gets wazoooo hot The 4076 2250 and 120A is drawing/PULLING the electrons..The motor PULLs the electrons....( my system runs cool on 4s 50C..)....I killed a 3s pack..thinking I can just run 3s ....waiting for the 4s packs to get charge....it killed the pack...lmao 50 mph..ish is my limit ( still plenty fast for R/C cars).Alot of it is... the TIRES. I also fly park JETS..ect..If I want SPEED or 3D aerobatics...It'll fly.
Get the 6ch Radio Transmitter & Receiver We Now Use Here - www.banggood.com/custlink/mD33VJz8zU It's got a built in Gyro, ABS Braking, and a 500M Range For Under $30!
Hi mate got a senton 3s thinking about infraction would you recommend it as I like speed more than bashing
One of the best rc advice given
Good tips! Broken a few of those myself lol. Also I noticed you mentioned that arrma now asks for 50c batteries back in the v2 days it was 35c, interesting. The one that people told me about but I cheaped out on was the tools. I can't begin to describe the difference a good set of tools makes. Trust me if your reading this get the tools!
One of the best videos in the rc world. Great job man you nailed this vid. Everything said in this film are crucial to enjoying the hobby.
Holy S*** I never thought about the size of the battery pack being a direct cause for puffing. I use to run 3000 packs of whatever was cheaper and after buying a talion and limitless I started buying 2x of either 3s 50 - 100c 4500mah for the talion or 2x 4s 6000 100C for the limitless and none of my batteries have puffed up but I thought it was because I was taking better care of them.
Thanks for the help and keep up the good work!
Thank you for explaining how the power system works. I have so many questions regarding this issue being new to the hobby. Hopefully I’ll have success with my build.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, good advice
Good tips. Maintenance is always cheaper!
Man great info,I am saving for a big rock,I live out in the country.Thanks Richie great video.
Love my Big Rock. Hope you get it soon.
Our guy killing it, great video Richie!
thanks guys!
Excellent points!
Absolutely great tips for me as a newbie. Love it Ritchie, x God bless you x
Just ordered my big rock and a spectrum charger and spectrum 3s 5000mah 100c. Should be pretty fun thanks for the info
I would have missed the 50 c rating in the manual myself. Great list Richie wouldn't change a thing.! Actually learned a couple things.!
Good tips buddy 👍
Good info and advise. 🤘🏻😎
Good stuff Richie! Those damn battery adapters...gonna change all my rigs and batteries to XT60 very soon. Enjoying the car I won from your drawing, it's a great training rig for newbies!
glad you're enjoying it. Have a good memorial day
Great vid, wish id seen this before I'd got everything I've got now!
Nice points mate sweet vid. 💯👌🏾
I love it “an eye watering 45$” thanks for the tips
I have a 2wd stampede with a side winder 4 and that thing is just pure fun
Good one, mate. Maybe the "buying the wrong batteries" could be highlighted/expanded a little and emphasizing the compatability of the size of the battery and the battery compartment. C-rating and mah is important, but I think a lot of beginners forget to check the actual physical size of the battery, and are just looking at the specs (c-rating, mah) ... and therefore getting the wrong battery that won't fit. .... Nontheless I got a battery tip for myself in your video: I was actually planning on buying the Typhon and use the Awanfi 2S 5000 x2 and Awanfi 3S 3000 x2 in it. But I see now that even with the 50C high initial C-rating the 3000 mah won't cut it. So that tip was, unintentionally, designed for me specifically :-)
Glad that tip helped out on the awanfi batteries, it's a good point you made on the battery sizes, this is a big issue with traxxas cars and I've had batteries in which would do well in the cars but don't fit! Even a lot of 3s packs I've got won't fit my traxxas cars.
@@DriftomaniacsRC yeah, and the problem get's even worse when it comes to Tamiya :-)
Good points for the new folks. ✌
This is good for beginners and intermediates
2 out of 3? I can live with that!
Great video sound advice thanks for posting
great points
This video will help a lot!!
Isn't the c rating only a Problem if it is too Low?
Sir, what kinda thread you use for your pinion gear? Mine keeps coming lose from the motor. Thanks
Are you using loctite on the pinion gear? If not use some blue loctite on it, and leave it 30 mins or so to make sure it's properly set, this should stop the pinion coming loose
Driftomaniacs I use red loctite. Yeah I do let it sit over night.
@@taevy12 not sure what to suggest in that case, although I've got the same problem at the minute on my losi XL-E, you could check the motor shaft to see it's running straight which is my next step on the losi.
Driftomaniacs m just gonna soak it with loctite this time 😂
@@taevy12 check that motor shaft is running true first though!
Great information
I just subscribed to your Channel great advice brother
Big tip for first buyers don’t bash for a long time. Stick to learning how an rc car drives on every surface. Grassy hilly areas are killers because a wrong bump can send the car out of control easily and unless your experienced you tend to freeze which usually ends up with letting off the gas , the nose come down and flip bang flip roll bang. Start slow, speed rips any rcs apart. Once your confidence is up try more speed. Also reality is arrma is the toughest outta box and if you are about to spend 400$ on an rc car probably should save more money and get the better rc car. Also crawlers are a bad first choice because they get boring fast. Crawlers are for enthusiasts that want a scale look for filming. Watch out for water too because bearings get ruined quickly. And remember to have fun and maintain expectations, watching rich duperbash or other really experienced drivers will have your expectations out of whack and you’ll end up breaking your prized possession.
very good advice justin
1# tip, font let newbie friends drive ur rc,I let my friend drive my Traxxas at an open park and she still flew into a concrete box, wheel stripped out one thread and bent the tire so now front tires don't point same direction, and my brother ran it into 2 parked cars, cracked 3 parts, steering bell crank, front skid plate and chassis! now I gotta basically rebuild my truck, lucky I only had one lithium in it, when I pit two imma put that wheely bar to use to make those selfish dumb caps jealous ! gonna upgrade and put a sick truck shell(roller cage included) on the brushless EMaxx! tighten suspension, high jumps here we come!
When taking your RC out don’t forget your receiver like I did
too funny!
thanks
Tf those hex drivers from amazon are amazing neve rbroke one yet
Oh mine haven't broken as such but they lose their 'edge' and slip in the hexs, and this results in the hex getting stripped. I use them a lot for day to day use though
Tip number one: dont hand over a brushless rc car to a non rc person
edit: I repair up to 600 dollars cause a kid stole my remote and crashed my xmaxx
You should really invest in a microphone for your videos. Love your channel would just like to hear you better.
AJ I do use a microphone on the camera but it's a directional one, I can't win as when I use that filming down at JJ customs it picks up all of the noise from around the store.
Driftomaniacs understand. Still gonna watch either way!
Richie, I respect your content but I would have to disagree on a couple of points if I may, I don’t personally think the high end drivers you suggest are necessary, just do the right thing and use a small torch to release the loctite. Also kind of surprised you would use a pressure cleaner, the electronics on these things are pretty delicate, along with decals, bodies etc. Sorry for bringing the negativity mate 👍🍺
No worries, on a lot of the arrmas there's a lot of plastic that I'd worry about melting with the heat, I've tried heat on the arrmas before but found the amount I had to apply on the red loctite screws was excessive (And only workeed 50% of the time). I had resisted getting the mip ones for months but when I did I've not had an issue removing stuff. On the pressure washer I figure it this way, nearly all of my cars are waterproof, although I would agree care needs to be taken around the decals, I have the spray set on wide to keep the jet pressure low. All feedback is much appreciated though.
You can buy the wrong car but you’ll want other cars my 2wd rustler sits on the shelf more than my 4x4 slash x-01 and 4tec 2.0 even tho the rustler is fully built and ready for any beating I want to throw at it they all do different things which I was totally surprised by getting into the hobby
Start off small. Get a Fyo3 and leave it stock. I have 4-5 of these truck.($40-ea)for over a year. The STOCK ones are fine...I just have it on higher C rating Li on to give more gusto.
The stock batteries will crap out....that's why it was on sale fron only $40.lmao
And deifinitely take 5 min reviews with a grain of salt..I have a couple of trucks that's
borderline....POS..such as the REDCAT volcano pro...it's marketed under different brand..
such HDS, ECX Durutrax..ect..I only got it for $107 (brushless)..It's ok..if you dont bash it hard. it has crappy metal parts..the cups will wear,,quick..the dogbone will bend ..quick..
it went cattie wongust after the first hard lading...So I just hack it...and made it to an
on road..45-50 mph on 3s around hood...without wearing out my tires.lmao
it's the samething with traxxas..Ive own plenty to know better ...they're MONEY PITS..even in stock ..which is RETARDED..if I had to spend that much money up front and still need to UPGRADE to make it use able...but that's was what my local hobby shop carried
at the time..i used to make trips 1-2 p/week just to fit it...FFS
I had a couple $1500 Savage..I probably spent over $1k on the T maxx.
and it was still in stock spec...even the same rod will stretch in traaxx engine..FFS.
The 2-ea t maxx i have now...have atleast $1k total worth of up grade parts on them...
LIPO..CHARGE it OUTSIDE.....GET A FIREBOX. Ive had a couple exploded while on the charger
TIRES...holy shiet..The god damn foam insert exploded out of wheels and launch 100 feet
on my RC8 converted to brushless....I never had that happened on nitro...
( .247 XTM..which was the most powerful motor in it's class on 15%-20% nitro).lmao
NONE of My Nitro ..savage, MGT. Tmaxx...nitro...will do a back flip from a stand still
on over powered nitro. ALL my BRUSHLESS trucks/buggies WILL....
Brushless motor....READ the instructions..They're all going to have different rating..
Im on 4076 2250KV...it's rated at only 5s MAX..120A ocday....4s max...
You'll be sorry if you run it on 6S.....the same 4076 1600 KV can run on 6S..
BUYER beware....seller of the same 120A esc...will advertise it as 2-8s...lmao
I KNOW BETTER...the instructions says....2-4s
I pay more for HIGHER C ratings LIPO...4s 50C Lower batteries C rating gets wazoooo hot
The 4076 2250 and 120A is drawing/PULLING the electrons..The motor PULLs
the electrons....( my system runs cool on 4s 50C..)....I killed a 3s pack..thinking I can
just run 3s ....waiting for the 4s packs to get charge....it killed the pack...lmao
50 mph..ish is my limit ( still plenty fast for R/C cars).Alot of it is... the TIRES.
I also fly park JETS..ect..If I want SPEED or 3D aerobatics...It'll fly.
Number 1 mistake New rc cars released and have to have them all oops did it again.
Car choice for most beginners:
Countryside: Traxxas stampede 4x4.
Suburban: Traxxas rally.
City: Traxxas 4-Tec.
Rural: Traxxas slash.
Tip eleven DON’T BUY REDCAT , tip twelve Don’t buy a kit bay rtr
Lol