Great video! Is there a specific torque requirement for the anti-roll bar? anything specific that is needed to be done to it after removing and installing again? Planning to do this on my 2015 XC70 D5 AWD Thanks!
Cheers. I'm not sure of the torque value; I imagine it's in Vida but I didn't check before I started. I tightened the bolts to a torque I was happy with based on years of experience working on my own cars and the feel of them as I removed them. I completely agree that torquing to spec is the right thing to do and if I was tightening more critical components, such a cylinder head bolts or any other engine block items etc., then I would use my torque wrench. As said in the video, you don't have to remove the ARB brackets if you'd prefer not to; it just makes access easier. In terms of anything specific for the ARB; I'm not sure it makes a difference in this case but I had the car on ramps, therefore the rear suspension was loaded and the ARB bushes were in the correct position. If the rear suspension was unloaded (on axle stands) then I would tighten the ARB brackets after the car is back on the ground so as not to twist the bushes.
@@KomradeShotabollokov I wanted to ask you about the jack points as well. As far as I know, there are none in the rear other than the ones on the sides. So I wonder how I would lift the car off the ground with 4 jacks, so that the car is leveled. I saw a guy lift it on what looks like the rear axle, see this at 0:40 : ua-cam.com/video/uZNC06Z7imQ/v-deo.html is this correct? Would appreciate if you made a short video that shows where you can jack up the car in the back, if it is possible! Thanks a lot!
Yes it's a shame that the PIII chassis doesn't have the same four big strong jacking plates just inboard of the sill points in the same way that the PII chassis does. Maybe the S60 PIII does still have these. For the best stability I would choose to put the axle stands at the four outermost possible points: the four sill points. Therefore I'd jack under the rear cross member/subframe where Volvosweden has his stands (the same thing I'm wiping the diesel from at the very end of my video) in order to install the stands at the rear sill points. Then I'd jack each side of the front subframe (roughly where the lower control arm attaches, at a suitable strong spot) and install the stands at the front sill points. Putting both stands so close together at the rear subframe as in Volvosweden's video makes me a little nervous - If I can choose a more stable configuration in any situation, I always will.
Removing the anti-roll bar is an option, not a requirement. You can do it without but the access is a little more difficult. I found that removing four 13mm bolts was very quick and easy.
I've been doing this for 35 years and I still always make a mess.
Don't worry about it mate.
Thanks for the video
Cheers, I hate the diesel filter change most, diesel stinks. 2nd only to manual gearbox oil in that regard...
Great video!
Is there a specific torque requirement for the anti-roll bar? anything specific that is needed to be done to it after removing and installing again?
Planning to do this on my 2015 XC70 D5 AWD
Thanks!
Cheers. I'm not sure of the torque value; I imagine it's in Vida but I didn't check before I started. I tightened the bolts to a torque I was happy with based on years of experience working on my own cars and the feel of them as I removed them. I completely agree that torquing to spec is the right thing to do and if I was tightening more critical components, such a cylinder head bolts or any other engine block items etc., then I would use my torque wrench. As said in the video, you don't have to remove the ARB brackets if you'd prefer not to; it just makes access easier. In terms of anything specific for the ARB; I'm not sure it makes a difference in this case but I had the car on ramps, therefore the rear suspension was loaded and the ARB bushes were in the correct position. If the rear suspension was unloaded (on axle stands) then I would tighten the ARB brackets after the car is back on the ground so as not to twist the bushes.
@@KomradeShotabollokov Thanks a lot for the detailed answer!
Just checked Vida; the torque for the four M10 bolts holding the two ARB brackets on is 60Nm. They're not torque to yield bolts.
@@KomradeShotabollokov I wanted to ask you about the jack points as well. As far as I know, there are none in the rear other than the ones on the sides. So I wonder how I would lift the car off the ground with 4 jacks, so that the car is leveled.
I saw a guy lift it on what looks like the rear axle, see this at 0:40 : ua-cam.com/video/uZNC06Z7imQ/v-deo.html
is this correct?
Would appreciate if you made a short video that shows where you can jack up the car in the back, if it is possible!
Thanks a lot!
Yes it's a shame that the PIII chassis doesn't have the same four big strong jacking plates just inboard of the sill points in the same way that the PII chassis does. Maybe the S60 PIII does still have these. For the best stability I would choose to put the axle stands at the four outermost possible points: the four sill points. Therefore I'd jack under the rear cross member/subframe where Volvosweden has his stands (the same thing I'm wiping the diesel from at the very end of my video) in order to install the stands at the rear sill points. Then I'd jack each side of the front subframe (roughly where the lower control arm attaches, at a suitable strong spot) and install the stands at the front sill points. Putting both stands so close together at the rear subframe as in Volvosweden's video makes me a little nervous - If I can choose a more stable configuration in any situation, I always will.
I don't understand, why fuel filter replacement in this car is so complicated like that!! Are you sure that this is the right way to do it?
Removing the anti-roll bar is an option, not a requirement. You can do it without but the access is a little more difficult. I found that removing four 13mm bolts was very quick and easy.
@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you.
i think that volvo had to simplify its design of engine.
how is it complicated? it's easier than getting oil filter of a 2jz for example