So clear and concise - one of the most useful videos I’ve seen. Given me the confidence to do the job over 9 years later! Your approach, explanations, tips and warnings make these videos what they are. And how brilliant it must feel to still be helping people with advice you gave nearly a decade ago - what a legacy :) Thank you very much for this and your other videos - making maintenance accessible for all is what will keep these cars going indefinitely. Thanks again.
Hi there just wanted to say a big thankyou for your brilliant tutorials on working on a Volvo d5 (s60). Your clear and detailed explanations have been invaluable to assisting me in the resurrecting of my own car which i abandoned after the unexpected death of my wife in 2018. I enjoy your way of working as I share a similar ethos and believe working steady and being methodical in approach to tasks pays dividends and also using genuine Volvo parts whenever possible works out cheaper in the long run. so once again many thanks for all your hard work in bringing a very clear and easy guide to the maintenance of our vehicles.
I've just bought a v70 d5 - my first ever diesel. It looks like a whole new world from the petrol Volvo's I've owned, and I'm grateful for your advice. A clear and comprehensive video. Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. Like you said in one of your videos there not that many videos on Volvo S60 DIYs. Yours are the BEST videos, simple and clear. Thank you.
Just working my way through your excellent videos. One comment on this for lubricating your sump bolt....Any time a torque spec is provided by the manufacturer, that spec is a 'dry' spec, unless it expressly indicates that it is a wet (lubed) spec. At which point it will indicate which lubricant to use. Also, I've always pre-filled my paper filters. i.e. soaked them in oil before installing them. It helps reduce the time the oil takes to get past the filter and to the engine on the first start.
Recently won a dirt cheap (£510) V70 D5, 2003 on Ebay , 6 months MOT and in great nick, 238000 miles but a stack of service history totaling 9K in the last 7 years! Replacement DMF, Clutch, Intercooler, Rebuilt injectors with new nozzles and high pressure seals etc, It's replacing my seriously loved remapped and very quick 850 T5 wagon as i'm sick of putting fuel in it! Hope i won't be disappointed! The D5 showed an average of 53.1 mpg on the drive to it's new home! Fingers crossed.
I bought my XC90 a month ago (at the time of writing) and I've already done a service. Mine has the D5 engine. I didn't have a 36mm socket so I had to manage with an adjustable spanner. I used a Bosch oil filter which is better than some of the cheaper brands. I used the Triple QX 5W-40 from Euro Car Parts. I read that it specifies 7 litres for the D5 engine but I only needed 6 litres. This oil change was spot on. Well done.
Excellent. Just so you know, the Mann filter sold by Eurocarparts is identical to the genuine Volvo one and often available for around £7 with their regular discount so worth bearing in mind in the future.
My girlfriend insists on owning European made vehicles, no comprehending the difficulty the present to work on. That being said, although I was doing the oil change on a Volvo C30, the filter configuration is the same as yours and your video was a great help to me! Thank you so much for putting it out there!
+Ty Kilgore Excellent. Very often repair techniques can be used across multiple makes so hopefully my other videos will prove useful too. Thank you for the comment.
The way you explain is good and more over taking time to take the video and sharing it is AWESOME!!!! The cost for Garage is way expensive in UK and it will be helpful to some one newbie like me. Thanks again.
Volvo owners love their cars, and they love them back 👍207k in my d5. Changing the oil myself from your video, very easy, no excuses now, and sure fire way to get to 400k mark
Very helpful video Sirobb! I bought myself a volvo v70 2002 modell for over 2 month now and it works excellent. I just need to change the filters soon, so this video really, really helps out :D Keep up the good job and videos! Best regards from Norway!
hi just seen the video very good . i have been changing my own oil for 15 years now on my old 940 tdi volvo . but its getting a bit old now but been very reliable .
Thanks for the comment and you've still got a great car regardless of age. Older Volvos have a level of reliability that many newer cars can't rival. 👍
Nothing wrong with using 5-40w. It's my preferred oil too due to the car spending it's summer holidays in the south of Spain. Regular temps of 40+ degrees.
Which year is your engine? Im asking because my 2007 D5244T5 supposedly needs 0w30 according to Volvo but that just cant be the optimal viscosity for an old Diesel engine. It had 0w30 in it when the car got to me, now I have a fully synthetic Liqui Moly 0w40 in the engine and it LOVES that oil since its been the most quiet on this oil and engine vibrations have improved the most with this oil. Before that I used regular 5w40 and it was a lot better than 0w30 too. There is no viscosity/temperature chart in my owners manual too. I am suspecting that emissions pushed Volvo to recommend the thinnest oil the engines can survive on because that creates a few percent less drag in the engine. The emissions regulations in the united states are pushing manufacturers to do this. BMW for example recommends everything between 0w30 and 5w40 for an engine here in Europe and you are meant to choose your oil based on climate and usage BUT only the thinnest 0w30 will be the standard oil for the US Market. The new super thin oils like 0w30 or 0w20 even are perfectly fine for engines that were designed to work well with these oils. Mazda Skyactive and Toyota Dynamic Force engines for example are meant for these oils.
Great vid fell foul of the later D5 dip stick woes, even though i only went halfway and got the "engine system service required code 042" took 500ml out and jacked up the drivers side for 10 mins, let down and the message has now gone.
Hi. Thank you for all your amazing Volvo videos. Did you already have problems with the swirl flaps on your D5? I would love to see a replacement video or alternatively a full intake cleaning video. I do not have problems with it yet, but I am planning to clean my intake system. Thank you and keep up the great work! Kind regards
That was a great help, thanks. I pour a small amount of water coolant into my engine so I need to drain it... any advice. I'm not using a flush. Thanks
The engine looked like that when I bought it and will probably still look like that when I sell it. Making an engine look pretty isn't really a priority for me. :)
The car will never go 19k miles or 2 years between oil changes. The fully synthetic B4 5/40 I used is approved by Volvo and perfectly good for the UK climate.
hi the problem i have is i have just put a wing on car had it sprayed as old one rusting . the bonnet and roof starting to blister/peeling paintwork . i could have the car resprayed . the honest sprayer says go away and have a good think as this would cost £800 to 1000 the under body is good its just got m.o.t. i won't find another car for £1000 . so I'm still tempted to spray it . what do you think ? regards jim liddy I'm based in stoke on trent
james liddy That depends on whether the peeling paintwork bothers you! If you have kept the car for a fairly long period, it's often better the devil you know than the devil you don't. If your budget is £1000, then you'd potentially be sensible to budget that money again for potential repairs for a car of that value. Depending on the condition and mileage of your car, I'd keep using and save for paint job over time.
james liddy Spend all the money on a respray? No way man! Just go and get a can of spray paint and go wild with it! That is probably going to cost you £30! After that you can spend the remaining £970 on getting a new body kit and maybe a break pad or something!
They are both as good as each other in Winter and 5 40 is slightly better in Summer. Pause the video at 2 minutes 32seconds and you'll see the oil chart and specifications.
Hi, I like your videos, and they’re very helpful for me, because I just bought a used one of these. Where did you get the manual? I can only get American spec manuals.
Well yes that's easy to say once you have a genuine filter in your hand and you can inspect all of the markings. I then made a video 3 months after ua-cam.com/video/fmqGS8fYSq4/v-deo.html and a more recent one still with regards to vacuum engine mounts.
I am changing each 250-300 engine hours.its approximately 10000km 12000miles will be almost 500h. (In my cases) there's is no oil which can work so long.
If you buy Mann or Knecht filter it would be the same quality as original one :) I use always full set of Knecht filters (oil, fuel, air, cabin) and never had any problems with them. Really very good quality. And my oil is Valvoline SynPower 5W30. Did 417900 kilometers on this setup already and everything works fine :) I do change every 12-15k kilometers.
Hi. I can hear a strange sound at 19:03 when you go under the car. I have the same sound in neutral. When i press the clutch pedal or add just a litle bit of throttle the sound goes away. Does this sound come from DMF? Great video. Thanks.
Your mechanic is wrong about the specification. You only need A3 B4 on a 2002 D5. A5 B5 is much more expensive and NOT necessary on the Euro3 163. You are both correct on the oil weight. 0 30 is ok and so is 5 40. It's all in your car handbook. 👍
Ah all good mate except I NEVER grab a hot sump plug without a piece of rag or gloves or at least let it cool down To the point of not dropping it into hot oil. Been there done that. 🤣😂🤣
what are the dimensions for the washer ring? Is the washer ring specific for the volvo or can I use any other gasket that has the same diameter and thickness?
In short, I don't like them. Don't get me wrong, ANY oil change is better than no oil change but vacuum pumps are for garages who don't really care what's left in the car because it isn't their car but I can see the attraction for people with limited work space or difficulties getting on the floor but you can see the flow rate with a sump drain and know that it's washing out a lot more than a vacuum will suck up. Getting under the car also means you can inspect other stuff whilst you're there. I spotted 2 worn anti roll bar links which would have failed my upcoming MOT so that's saved me some time, expense and inconvenience.
John Marshall If I can be a little bit contrary, I think vacuum pumps are fine. They came from the marine industry where you can't actually get under an engine sump to drain it, and so you have no other choice but to vacuum it out. The average marine diesel engine goes through horrendous duty cycles, way more so than a road car, and are worth literally millions in some cases. I work in the industry in case you're wondering. I have a marine diesel crankshaft sitting in my warehouse right now that's worth in excess of £250,000. Those engines are vac pumped of oil, albeit on a large scale with an air driven pump. I have used vacuum pumps for about 20 years now, and have managed to take a car to 500k+ miles without ever taking a sump plug off. When I first did it, I used the pump then took the sump plug off, and almost nothing came out - about enough to coat my thumbnail. If anyone ever tries to make the argument that 'you don't get all the old oil out' then they know nothing about engines. You have oil left in the journals, galleries, casting depressions and so on with any oil change. Do what works for you, but don't be scared to try different, yet proven, methods. Good luck with your car.
I noticed you only change your oil and filter every 12000 miles. Im on the side of every 6000. It helps that I can get discounted quality (and to spec) oil and I always use genuine filters. What are your thoughts on this frequency of oil change SiRobb? Just out of interest. Thanks again for your vids.
Hi Nathan, thanks for the support. I change my oil annually so I'm not really changing every 12k. It's more like 9k and the Helix Ultra is more than capable of lasting for that interval. As you know, the number of cold starts, journey types, driving style and more can greatly affect how your oil copes so I'm reluctant to say that anyone should or shouldn't do a particular method. The normally smooth D5 very kindly gives you a top end rattle warning if your oil isn't working as well as it should. See also my oil filter buying guide which shows how a genuine filter can be had for just £6.
+SiRobb Thanks for the reply. Yes, I agree with everything you said. I think I will stick with my 6k changes with a full service at 12k. It gives me an opportunity for further inspection whilst im fiddling! I saw your vid on genuine filters and will certainly be using that info in the future. Have your tried F.R.F Volvo Swansea. If you mention you belong to the internet forums they are very good at discounting genuine parts. Ive had some very good deals particularly with brake components.
+Nathan Rich Yes I've used FRF for my crank locking tool when I did my timing belt. I found Simon there to be very knowledgeable and helpful. Their prices can be very competitive dependant on what you're buying but postage on heavier items can make a dent in their discount so my parts sourcing varies in fact my timing and aux parts came from 3 places in the end. It depends whether you can be bothered. 😊 Code C3 is the one to quote with FRF if I remember right.
@@sirobb Wow cant believe this was 5 years ago. Simon I hate to trouble you but I have gone down an oil rabbit hole and got wrapped in a knot. I need your sober and informed opinion. I'm your biggest fan so I figure you owe me :) You may remember from my recent post on your transmission oil change TF80SC that I mentioned selling my 2003 V70 D5 and getting an R Design V70 D5. Its the 205bhp twin turbo with the DPF obviously. 70k on the clock. FSH. I'm unsure what oil the dealer put in it and want to change it out so I have a known base to start from. Yes, the manual recommends Castrol Edge A5/B5. My question is if it was yours what would you put in it? I should mention I'm planning on 6k oil changes. I used to be confident that a reasonable fully synthetic changed regularly trumped long interval but more expensive oil but now I'm not so sure. I've heard people saying you should use a C3 oil as its better for the DPF. Im also intrigued about using a cheaper A5/B5 with a can of Ceratec. I would really appreciate your opinion on the matter. Thanks, as always I continue to watch each and every one of your videos and think you do a great job with them.
@@nathanrich5256 I service several Euro 4 D5 and just use A5/B5 Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol Edge. Oil debates send me a bit cross eyed if I'm honest, lol.
Low saps 5w30 or even 40 them numbers just temperature dependent dont listen what people saying and dont be overpaying for oil :) i know some fuck tards will come and say due to dpf u have to use 0w30 thats absolute bollocks funny how any other cars are ok on 5w40 or 5w30 and running dry dpf as long as its a5/b5 put whatever grade suits you if you living in siberia and winter is -50 C grade then yeah u may have to put 0w30 on other hand if you living in africa u will have to set for 5w50 or even 10w60 and i guarantee your car be fine xD i think volvo must be doing shady business with castrol making people spend 100£ per oil change telling them u have to use that fucker lol
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Not changed my gear oil yet but the manual box oil change is very simple and covered sufficiently in Haynes. I will do a video one day but there's no plans for a while.
Nothing in the handbook says that it can't be used and my Euro 3 D5 is now on 205k miles and I've had no issues. That's my experience but everyone should make their own choice.
I can guarantee you 100% that you've got the WRONG oil. I rang 2 different official Volvo garages in 2 different towns & they both said to NOT use that oil. Should of used the 0W-30.
The wrong oil? My perfectly running 200k+ miles D5 disagrees and if you are going to take the main dealer's word as gospel, this isn't the channel for you.
@@sirobb It's a general rule of thumb. Torque will be higher than what it's supposed to. In this case it won't matter that much but there are cases where it will. Just a heads up👍
Sure but if you've watched any of my 100 or so other videos you'll see that I only lubricate threads on the occasions where it either helps for the future or simply doesn't matter.
Castrol have an agreement with Volvo that is why they recomended that shit. The fact that you propose castrol or shell that convinces me that you dont have practical knowladge. To Volvo car you put only MOTUL or VALVOLINE oil.
@@sirobb there is my proof that I am doing the right thing by using 5w40 or 0w40 in my Euro4 D5 despite the 0w30 recommendation from Volvo because nothing has changed really mechanically from a "Gen1" D5 to a "Gen2" Euro4 D5.
So clear and concise - one of the most useful videos I’ve seen. Given me the confidence to do the job over 9 years later!
Your approach, explanations, tips and warnings make these videos what they are. And how brilliant it must feel to still be helping people with advice you gave nearly a decade ago - what a legacy :)
Thank you very much for this and your other videos - making maintenance accessible for all is what will keep these cars going indefinitely. Thanks again.
Hi there just wanted to say a big thankyou for your brilliant tutorials on working on a Volvo d5 (s60). Your clear and detailed explanations have been invaluable to assisting me in the resurrecting of my own car which i abandoned after the unexpected death of my wife in 2018. I enjoy your way of working as I share a similar ethos and believe working steady and being methodical in approach to tasks pays dividends and also using genuine Volvo parts whenever possible works out cheaper in the long run. so once again many thanks for all your hard work in bringing a very clear and easy guide to the maintenance of our vehicles.
I've just bought a v70 d5 - my first ever diesel. It looks like a whole new world from the petrol Volvo's I've owned, and I'm grateful for your advice. A clear and comprehensive video. Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. Like you said in one of your videos there not that many videos on Volvo S60 DIYs. Yours are the BEST videos, simple and clear.
Thank you.
Thank you very much for taking the time to comment.
It's satisfying to know that people find the videos useful.
S60 is basically the same as the V70.
It's engine specific not car model specific so it's the same if the engine is the same.
Great video SiRobb. The more expensive the garages get, the more we need these types of video. Thanks for posting.
Just working my way through your excellent videos.
One comment on this for lubricating your sump bolt....Any time a torque spec is provided by the manufacturer, that spec is a 'dry' spec, unless it expressly indicates that it is a wet (lubed) spec. At which point it will indicate which lubricant to use.
Also, I've always pre-filled my paper filters. i.e. soaked them in oil before installing them. It helps reduce the time the oil takes to get past the filter and to the engine on the first start.
Recently won a dirt cheap (£510) V70 D5, 2003 on Ebay , 6 months MOT and in great nick, 238000 miles but a stack of service history totaling 9K in the last 7 years! Replacement DMF, Clutch, Intercooler, Rebuilt injectors with new nozzles and high pressure seals etc, It's replacing my seriously loved remapped and very quick 850 T5 wagon as i'm sick of putting fuel in it! Hope i won't be disappointed! The D5 showed an average of 53.1 mpg on the drive to it's new home! Fingers crossed.
I bought my XC90 a month ago (at the time of writing) and I've already done a service. Mine has the D5 engine. I didn't have a 36mm socket so I had to manage with an adjustable spanner. I used a Bosch oil filter which is better than some of the cheaper brands. I used the Triple QX 5W-40 from Euro Car Parts. I read that it specifies 7 litres for the D5 engine but I only needed 6 litres. This oil change was spot on. Well done.
Excellent. Just so you know, the Mann filter sold by Eurocarparts is identical to the genuine Volvo one and often available for around £7 with their regular discount so worth bearing in mind in the future.
I've found that Bosch filters are noticeably better than the cheap Crossland filters and generally don't cost much more.
@@Parknest I'd never use Crossland either hence my suggestion for Mann seeing as they make the OE oil filter.
My girlfriend insists on owning European made vehicles, no comprehending the difficulty the present to work on. That being said, although I was doing the oil change on a Volvo C30, the filter configuration is the same as yours and your video was a great help to me! Thank you so much for putting it out there!
+Ty Kilgore Excellent.
Very often repair techniques can be used across multiple makes so hopefully my other videos will prove useful too.
Thank you for the comment.
Great video mate! I just got myself an old V70 2006 2.4D and your videos are of great help!
The way you explain is good and more over taking time to take the video and sharing it is AWESOME!!!!
The cost for Garage is way expensive in UK and it will be helpful to some one newbie like me.
Thanks again.
It's always good to read comments like yours and to know my videos are of some help.
Thank you. 👍
Volvo owners love their cars, and they love them back 👍207k in my d5. Changing the oil myself from your video, very easy, no excuses now, and sure fire way to get to 400k mark
Thanks for the simple and understandable tutorial! Perfect step-by-step solution! Greetings from Estonia!
Hey Rob, your videos are the best on UA-cam, so detailed and clear.
great tutorial you make even a simple oil change exiting brilliant
Very helpful video Sirobb! I bought myself a volvo v70 2002 modell for over 2 month now and it works excellent. I just need to change the filters soon, so this video really, really helps out :D Keep up the good job and videos! Best regards from Norway!
Thank you.
If you're about to do your oil and filter, also see my video about how to buy a cheap genuine filter.
Brilliant video si, just bought a xc90 and like diy this is spot on.
Excellent video and very professionally narrated, thank you 😉
Alex Campbell That's good to hear and thanks for the comment. 👍
Great vid, thinking about buying an xc90 and your vids are a great help to allay some of my fears ! Thanks !
Thank you very much for your explanations!!👍 Very useful!! I'll do it as you explained and it will be fine! Greetings from germany and stay safe!!
Haha love the brief reminder on the steering wheel!
Very clear and helpful. Thanks.
hi just seen the video very good . i have been changing my own oil for 15 years now on my old 940 tdi volvo . but its getting a bit old now but been very reliable .
Thanks for the comment and you've still got a great car regardless of age.
Older Volvos have a level of reliability that many newer cars can't rival. 👍
Excellent video, very clear and concise. Thank you.
in this engine you must fill 0w30 or 5w30 but Volvo recommends 0w30
Tautvydas i know what you mean. The temps in my area get as low as -25f winter and 105f summer and i use 5w 30 in my xc90.
Tautvydas xc90d5
Nothing wrong with using 5-40w. It's my preferred oil too due to the car spending it's summer holidays in the south of Spain. Regular temps of 40+ degrees.
5w40 is recommended for the non dpf D5 engines. Protects the valve lifters much better
Dry night pads for over spill would help Great vid
Which year is your engine?
Im asking because my 2007 D5244T5 supposedly needs 0w30 according to Volvo but that just cant be the optimal viscosity for an old Diesel engine.
It had 0w30 in it when the car got to me, now I have a fully synthetic Liqui Moly 0w40 in the engine and it LOVES that oil since its been the most quiet on this oil and engine vibrations have improved the most with this oil.
Before that I used regular 5w40 and it was a lot better than 0w30 too.
There is no viscosity/temperature chart in my owners manual too.
I am suspecting that emissions pushed Volvo to recommend the thinnest oil the engines can survive on because that creates a few percent less drag in the engine.
The emissions regulations in the united states are pushing manufacturers to do this. BMW for example recommends everything between 0w30 and 5w40 for an engine here in Europe and you are meant to choose your oil based on climate and usage BUT only the thinnest 0w30 will be the standard oil for the US Market.
The new super thin oils like 0w30 or 0w20 even are perfectly fine for engines that were designed to work well with these oils. Mazda Skyactive and Toyota Dynamic Force engines for example are meant for these oils.
Great vid fell foul of the later D5 dip stick woes, even though i only went halfway and got the "engine system service required code 042" took 500ml out and jacked up the drivers side for 10 mins, let down and the message has now gone.
Hi. Thank you for all your amazing Volvo videos. Did you already have problems with the swirl flaps on your D5? I would love to see a replacement video or alternatively a full intake cleaning video. I do not have problems with it yet, but I am planning to clean my intake system. Thank you and keep up the great work! Kind regards
That was a great help, thanks.
I pour a small amount of water coolant into my engine so I need to drain it... any advice. I'm not using a flush. Thanks
sirobb your engine bay is asking for some detailing :) I did in my D5 last summer and no issues.
Thanks for sharing .
The engine looked like that when I bought it and will probably still look like that when I sell it.
Making an engine look pretty isn't really a priority for me. :)
hehe OK. your car - your rulez ;)
Very good videoclip Rob, but you should've really gone for a 0W-30 long life oil that can last up to 19k miles or two years whichever comes first
The car will never go 19k miles or 2 years between oil changes.
The fully synthetic B4 5/40 I used is approved by Volvo and perfectly good for the UK climate.
This was a great help thanks!
Excellent video. Many thanks
Thanks for the great video. Do you think that using A5/B5 for a 2005 D5 (D5244T) can do any harm for the engine?
Vytautas M I don't know whether it would harm the engine but I wouldn't want to find out.
It isn't the correct specification oil so I wouldn't use it.
If your car has a DPF - use only A5/B5, if car has no DPF - A3/B4 or C3.
I miss my car with the canister filter. I now have a honda which have horizontal spin on filters in awkward positions.
Great video, can you confirm the size of the drain plug washer please ? The tape over the key socket is an excellent idea! Thanks 👍👍👍
Thanks. Sump plug washer internal diameter is 18mm
@@sirobb Top Job thank you so much thumbs up and subbed
Thank you really excellent! Will it be the same for an XC60 D5 AWD 2011?
hi the problem i have is i have just put a wing on car had it sprayed as old one rusting . the bonnet and roof starting to blister/peeling paintwork . i could have the car resprayed . the honest sprayer says go away and have a good think as this would cost £800 to 1000 the under body is good its just got m.o.t. i won't find another car for £1000 . so I'm still tempted to spray it . what do you think ? regards jim liddy I'm based in stoke on trent
james liddy That depends on whether the peeling paintwork bothers you! If you have kept the car for a fairly long period, it's often better the devil you know than the devil you don't. If your budget is £1000, then you'd potentially be sensible to budget that money again for potential repairs for a car of that value. Depending on the condition and mileage of your car, I'd keep using and save for paint job over time.
james liddy Spend all the money on a respray? No way man! Just go and get a can of spray paint and go wild with it! That is probably going to cost you £30! After that you can spend the remaining £970 on getting a new body kit and maybe a break pad or something!
I cannot remove the filter from the holder. Seems there are clips inside. Will not pull off. 2008 xc70
Pull harder. 👍🏾
i buy the car used no book.so what's difference between 0w30 and 5w40?
They are both as good as each other in Winter and 5 40 is slightly better in Summer.
Pause the video at 2 minutes 32seconds and you'll see the oil chart and specifications.
+SiRobb 3:32
Hi,
I like your videos, and they’re very helpful for me, because I just bought a used one of these. Where did you get the manual? I can only get American spec manuals.
I love the video
sir, when applying torque with a torque wrench you hold the wrench at the handle not at neck of the torque wrench.
Brilliant! Thanks very much!
very informative video sir. keep up the good work!
I will do and thank you too.
Hi SiRobb where did you find the torques book for volvo cars ?
Thx you so much great videos
Haynes manual or Vida software.
THX YOU FROM BELGIUM
Great video, but with regards to a genuine filter. Pretty sure I saw it branded mann on the top? So why not go straight to Mann for 6 quid less?
Well yes that's easy to say once you have a genuine filter in your hand and you can inspect all of the markings.
I then made a video 3 months after ua-cam.com/video/fmqGS8fYSq4/v-deo.html and a more recent one still with regards to vacuum engine mounts.
Great Vids. You have saved me load of money and time. Cheers ;-)
I am changing each 250-300 engine hours.its approximately 10000km
12000miles will be almost 500h. (In my cases) there's is no oil which can work so long.
gust made second change oil ant put the motul 8100 x-cess.any opininion?sugestions
thank a lot. I will do that when i fine a cle 36 !!!
Great video, Looks like the genuine Volvo oil filters are made by Mann? If so some good savings going with Mann filters!
If you buy Mann or Knecht filter it would be the same quality as original one :) I use always full set of Knecht filters (oil, fuel, air, cabin) and never had any problems with them. Really very good quality. And my oil is Valvoline SynPower 5W30. Did 417900 kilometers on this setup already and everything works fine :)
I do change every 12-15k kilometers.
@@mateuszpankowski853 Good info mate, Appreciated.
Hi. I can hear a strange sound at 19:03 when you go under the car. I have the same sound in neutral. When i press the clutch pedal or add just a litle bit of throttle the sound goes away. Does this sound come from DMF? Great video. Thanks.
hy i have an volvo s60 d5 2002 and i put in the oil bardahl xtc c60 5w40,mechanic say to me is wrong because i neea 0w30 a5b5.what is yuor opinion?
Your mechanic is wrong about the specification. You only need A3 B4 on a 2002 D5.
A5 B5 is much more expensive and NOT necessary on the Euro3 163.
You are both correct on the oil weight. 0 30 is ok and so is 5 40.
It's all in your car handbook. 👍
Ah all good mate except I NEVER grab a hot sump plug without a piece of rag or gloves or at least let it cool down To the point of not dropping it into hot oil. Been there done that. 🤣😂🤣
Is it possible to change the filter with a 36 mm open-end wrench?
Yes if the length of it will fit in the space under the bonnet.
what are the dimensions for the washer ring? Is the washer ring specific for the volvo or can I use any other gasket that has the same diameter and thickness?
I don't know. They cost about 50 pence from a parts supplier so it's not worth checking.
pls explain stopping problem coming volve penta 200kva gen
Good video thanks. What are your thoughts about using a vacuum pump to extract the oil and avoiding the under car work?
In short, I don't like them. Don't get me wrong, ANY oil change is better than no oil change but vacuum pumps are for garages who don't really care what's left in the car because it isn't their car but I can see the attraction for people with limited work space or difficulties getting on the floor but you can see the flow rate with a sump drain and know that it's washing out a lot more than a vacuum will suck up.
Getting under the car also means you can inspect other stuff whilst you're there.
I spotted 2 worn anti roll bar links which would have failed my upcoming MOT so that's saved me some time, expense and inconvenience.
John Marshall If I can be a little bit contrary, I think vacuum pumps are fine. They came from the marine industry where you can't actually get under an engine sump to drain it, and so you have no other choice but to vacuum it out. The average marine diesel engine goes through horrendous duty cycles, way more so than a road car, and are worth literally millions in some cases. I work in the industry in case you're wondering. I have a marine diesel crankshaft sitting in my warehouse right now that's worth in excess of £250,000. Those engines are vac pumped of oil, albeit on a large scale with an air driven pump.
I have used vacuum pumps for about 20 years now, and have managed to take a car to 500k+ miles without ever taking a sump plug off. When I first did it, I used the pump then took the sump plug off, and almost nothing came out - about enough to coat my thumbnail.
If anyone ever tries to make the argument that 'you don't get all the old oil out' then they know nothing about engines. You have oil left in the journals, galleries, casting depressions and so on with any oil change.
Do what works for you, but don't be scared to try different, yet proven, methods. Good luck with your car.
I noticed you only change your oil and filter every 12000 miles. Im on the side of every 6000. It helps that I can get discounted quality (and to spec) oil and I always use genuine filters. What are your thoughts on this frequency of oil change SiRobb? Just out of interest. Thanks again for your vids.
Hi Nathan, thanks for the support.
I change my oil annually so I'm not really changing every 12k. It's more like 9k and the Helix Ultra is more than capable of lasting for that interval.
As you know, the number of cold starts, journey types, driving style and more can greatly affect how your oil copes so I'm reluctant to say that anyone should or shouldn't do a particular method.
The normally smooth D5 very kindly gives you a top end rattle warning if your oil isn't working as well as it should.
See also my oil filter buying guide which shows how a genuine filter can be had for just £6.
+SiRobb Thanks for the reply. Yes, I agree with everything you said. I think I will stick with my 6k changes with a full service at 12k. It gives me an opportunity for further inspection whilst im fiddling! I saw your vid on genuine filters and will certainly be using that info in the future. Have your tried F.R.F Volvo Swansea. If you mention you belong to the internet forums they are very good at discounting genuine parts. Ive had some very good deals particularly with brake components.
+Nathan Rich Yes I've used FRF for my crank locking tool when I did my timing belt.
I found Simon there to be very knowledgeable and helpful.
Their prices can be very competitive dependant on what you're buying but postage on heavier items can make a dent in their discount so my parts sourcing varies in fact my timing and aux parts came from 3 places in the end.
It depends whether you can be bothered. 😊
Code C3 is the one to quote with FRF if I remember right.
@@sirobb Wow cant believe this was 5 years ago. Simon I hate to trouble you but I have gone down an oil rabbit hole and got wrapped in a knot. I need your sober and informed opinion. I'm your biggest fan so I figure you owe me :)
You may remember from my recent post on your transmission oil change TF80SC that I mentioned selling my 2003 V70 D5 and getting an R Design V70 D5. Its the 205bhp twin turbo with the DPF obviously. 70k on the clock. FSH. I'm unsure what oil the dealer put in it and want to change it out so I have a known base to start from. Yes, the manual recommends Castrol Edge A5/B5. My question is if it was yours what would you put in it?
I should mention I'm planning on 6k oil changes. I used to be confident that a reasonable fully synthetic changed regularly trumped long interval but more expensive oil but now I'm not so sure. I've heard people saying you should use a C3 oil as its better for the DPF. Im also intrigued about using a cheaper A5/B5 with a can of Ceratec. I would really appreciate your opinion on the matter. Thanks, as always I continue to watch each and every one of your videos and think you do a great job with them.
@@nathanrich5256 I service several Euro 4 D5 and just use A5/B5 Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol Edge.
Oil debates send me a bit cross eyed if I'm honest, lol.
So far how is your Euro 3 D5 doing with those flushes? What is the oil consumption?
It's running very well with 215k miles and uses/loses no oil.
@@sirobb
Then there is no reason to be afraid of Engine Flush. Thank you very much for the videos!
Is this pretty much the same on the s60 d3 2010 model?
main dealer filter --- says MANN on it lol
How's things mate quick question, you think it's okay for me to use a5/b5 5w/30 oil instead of the recommended 0w/30 for D5 Volvo s40? Cheers.
Low saps 5w30 or even 40 them numbers just temperature dependent dont listen what people saying and dont be overpaying for oil :) i know some fuck tards will come and say due to dpf u have to use 0w30 thats absolute bollocks funny how any other cars are ok on 5w40 or 5w30 and running dry dpf as long as its a5/b5 put whatever grade suits you if you living in siberia and winter is -50 C grade then yeah u may have to put 0w30 on other hand if you living in africa u will have to set for 5w50 or even 10w60 and i guarantee your car be fine xD i think volvo must be doing shady business with castrol making people spend 100£ per oil change telling them u have to use that fucker lol
Somehow I manage to get exactly 6.25L out of mine every time!
Thanks!
Where did he find the torque values? I am a very new hobby mechanic and I dont know where to find torque values for the car
Haynes manual which you see in the video or Volvo Vida software.
@@sirobb Where do I get the Vida software? Thank you for the very fast answer
Prices start from around £2 on eBay.
Just search Volvo Vida.
@@sirobb Thank you SiRobb, love ya vids have seen em in a long time now, just for fun. Thanks for the answer boss
@@sirobb so I can just buy the CD's on eBay and download the program?
I put halfords 5w30 in my volvo and now my engine system service light is on. so will be draining that and putting a better quality one
It might be because your over filled !
@@abood_abtv4203 yea worked out to be that.
Where did you get you Jack and stands? Thanks
Eurocarparts for both.
@@sirobb Great thanks. Oh, i've just got air nd oil filter from Mann, half price compared to getting from Volvo so thanks for your other video too
Para quem gosta de mecanica a lingua não é problema 99% da para intender
Really like your vids - v useful. Have you done a vid for the gearbox oil change?
Hi. Thanks for the comment.
Not changed my gear oil yet but the manual box oil change is very simple and covered sufficiently in Haynes.
I will do a video one day but there's no plans for a while.
is 5-40 still recommended for a 200k d5 163 si?
Nothing in the handbook says that it can't be used and my Euro 3 D5 is now on 205k miles and I've had no issues.
That's my experience but everyone should make their own choice.
I can guarantee you 100% that you've got the WRONG oil. I rang 2 different official Volvo garages in 2 different towns & they both said to NOT use that oil. Should of used the 0W-30.
The wrong oil?
My perfectly running 200k+ miles D5 disagrees and if you are going to take the main dealer's word as gospel, this isn't the channel for you.
any opinion about this oil?
Yes, if your engine needs A3 B4 spec, Shell Helix Ultra is the best I've used.
+SiRobb id have the s60 d5 2002 5gear and in highway the engine stay a lot of hours at 4000 rpm,and i need a good oil.
+andreiman2008 For your engine, this oil is excellent.
I've found in Manchester volvo dealer oil is cheaper than the rest
It's a Mann filter, they make them and Volvo mark them up
Yes, I know. 👍
Why 3/4 on the Euro 4 D5?
Anton In case of oil dilution with diesel from failed regenerations.
Don't lubricate the threads. You will over tighten that way
It's really not a problem if you're sensible.
@@sirobb It's a general rule of thumb. Torque will be higher than what it's supposed to. In this case it won't matter that much but there are cases where it will. Just a heads up👍
Sure but if you've watched any of my 100 or so other videos you'll see that I only lubricate threads on the occasions where it either helps for the future or simply doesn't matter.
6.2L or 6.5L?
Capacity is 6.5 but you'll never fit that in.
Mines the E4 163. Looking to do it next week as it's due. Cheers
thanks :-)
great video but I'm going to buy you some gloves ;->
Castrol have an agreement with Volvo that is why they recomended that shit. The fact that you propose castrol or shell that convinces me that you dont have practical knowladge. To Volvo car you put only MOTUL or VALVOLINE oil.
5w40 IS shit oil for D5 very important Volvo motor Fill 0w30
Lol, 5 40 is in the owner's manual for the Euro 3 so is absolutely fine.
I have 208k miles on my D5 with no problems.
Utter nonsense to pour 0w30 in a Diesel that was designed over 20 years ago.
@@sirobb there is my proof that I am doing the right thing by using 5w40 or 0w40 in my Euro4 D5 despite the 0w30 recommendation from Volvo because nothing has changed really mechanically from a "Gen1" D5 to a "Gen2" Euro4 D5.
O
Hi. I just wondering if you still got this car after 8 year ? Kind regards