Another great video Andrew. Just put some new bearing in the back wheels on my sons 600 M1 Mountian Cat and used your video as a reference for the track tension. Thanks
great video! Thanks for making it. I think most driveshaft bearings have a lock collar on the speedo side. I didn't see that in your video. But all around really nice informative video! I have the exact same sled with reverse. I LOOOOVE it! EFI is the best. Two pulls and it starts everytime! Never seen such a clean snowmobile bellypan area as yours!!!
Excellent job, very thorough, I learned a lot, especially on the rear suspension install, I appreciate your time & effort, thank you very much ! looking forward to more of your video's
Thank you. Glad you found it useful. All I ask is to share my channel and videos as much as you can to get the word out there about these awesome machines!
Yes it does, especially real ones and not just those that break the command of "thou shalt not take the Lords name in vain" (as in claiming to be christian for personal gain... I.E. a vain reason). Glad to meet you Bernie! Thanks for watching!
Glad you found it useful. Yes that can be the cause. Sometimes the Speedo gear and can dreeze up from sitting and when the sled gets used again it will snap tat wire pin.
Great video! I'm not afraid of doing a track now. I just purchased a '99 ZR 700 with a brand new track installed but the speedometer doesn't work. The previous owner included an uninstalled cable which I swapped but still no speed indication. I'm wondering if they forgot something in the speedo gear when they put the new track in. BTW, I didn't know there was a drain plug for the chain case so I did the oil change the hard way by sucking it out with an old outboard motor primer bulb and hose. LOL!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- So I did indeed pulled the front clutch off and opened up the speedo gear and sure enough, the drive pin was sheared off with half of it missing. I think the previous owner just didnn't bother ordering it when he did the track. I got one on the way now. FYI, I use a cheap Harbor Freight chain hoist to an eye bolt in the ceiling of my garage to lift the back my sleds. It makes life so much easier! The info in your videos is so helpful. Thank you!
Good deal I figured that pin was sheared. That's normally what it is. Also make sure that when you get the new PIN you can put it in either side of the speedo gear and the little square hole and spin the speedo gear easily with your fingers if not you're going to need to either get a new one or you can actually loosen them up you just need to take a square screwdriver bit and either and that fits properly and work it loose spraying PB Blaster in both ends and then just keep working at loose getting oil in there loosen it up real good then put it in a parts washer keep loosening it up and then put more PB Blaster loosen it up more than keep redoing that and then once you feel that it's cleaned up good enough oil it up again put that square bit into a drill and put it in either end of the speedo gear and crank that thing out a few times just to really clean it out then you can clean it out one more time and lube it up and it should be good. Also I would be careful about only using an eye bolt for that chain hoist. I ended up drilling a couple holes on either side of a ceiling joist in my garage and wrap the chain around the ceiling joist and then join that together with a coupler and then use that for my chain hoist and I can lift the front end of a big thousand CC Thundercat up with ease and no worry
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- So I have another question about my '99 ZR 700. The previous owner claimed the top end was done pretty recently, maybe 100 miles on it, Shouldn't the compression be a little better than 125 psi per side? Not sure if the crank seals are original.Thanks.
Yes if the top end was done right. A light honing and nee rings, pistons and a good breakin. Meaning no long idling. Typically just one heat cycle to take the stress out of the cast parts and then ride it hard. No long pulls. My 95 ZR 700 engine that I rebuilt has around 136 per cylinder.
That motor mount is jacked....I saw the engine moving around when you had it engaging with the hood up...that's your low end bog under power that engine is flopping around
Not sure what mount or engine/ sled you're talking about? This sled runs great now after rebuilding the engine and TSS switch... Watch here. Https://ua-cam.com/video/IGyR7jHwino/v-deo.html
Great video..!! I am changing a track on a 2000 zl 550. The only trouble I had was I couldn’t get the bearing off the chain case side if the shaft. Bearing felt good so I just slid the track off with chain case side still attached. I just got everything apart and I am going to reassemble it tomorrow. The reverse makes the Chain case a little more difficult. There is quite a bit going on inside there above a normal setup. We will see how it goes.
Could be that it's just silicone down there and needs to be forced off. The later versions of bearings started thing made with o rings on the inner race to help seal them. So I'm sure some people still used silicone or our TV seal the shaft to the inner race of the bearing. But yeah I feel bearings good then you should be fine
Thanks for the response. On my chain case I have a wound flat spring tensioner that tensions the chain. How much do I tension that spring inside the cover before I fasten it down? Thanks for you quick response. I appreciate guys who take the time to add repairs like this for all of us out here.
Good deal no worries. That should just hook over to little bolts on the tensioners and it's self-tensioning that spring is. Or are you talking about the bolt on the side of the case that goes through the case and pushes on the roller to create tension on the chain? If you're talking about that then if it's not Auto tensioning you loosen the lock nut and then screw the bolt in by hand to where it's only fingertight so just snug with your fingers not cranking on it and then lock the nut down. But if you're talking about the auto tensioner you have to win it all the way in to where it takes attention off and then let it unwind out to where it puts tension on the chain and it will auto adjust from there.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- it’s the auto tensioner. I wound it up enough so I could get it inside the housing then put the cap on and wound it a few more times. I ran the tensioner up by hand first, hand right. Then put on the auto tensioner roll I’m and the sap and gave it a few more turns. Will that end up being to tight?
Awsome video. Followed it to the letter when I changed the track on mine (same year, make, and model). Only question I had not sure if it makes a difference but when. Butting the oil in the chain case I was tought to use the oil fill at the top so the oil coats the chain on the way down. Supposedly it helps chain wear so it's not dry on initial start. Just wondering if that makes a big deal. I replaced the chain so it was dry. I soaked it in fresh oil first but just asking becouse you seem much more experienced in this field then I am. Thank you so much. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Glad it helped. I dont think it matters. The cain will completely.run tjrough the oil at the bottom assign you take off and keep doing that shie moving . I once forgot to add oil to my wifes chaincase snd she put 350 miles on ths sled before the chain and top gear gave way. 🤣
Here we are another ride season,enjoy your content andrew always a joy to watch you wrench,very well and thorough explanations!!as well as good lighting n camera work.when able.i just got a used 90s polaris 400 indy its a nice ripper,fixed in tank line and pump..only it doesnt have reverse or electric start but noticed there is a mount for starter.i wonder do you think i could transplant another sleds reverse box and clutch with starter ring into mine.i saw an indy 500 clutch online with starter set-up and a cat 538 with a reverse box n brake similar to my brake set-up.do you think itll work or any direction u can point me in to make this idea work?snookie pa.
Hey hey welcome back alan! Thanks for the compliments always greatly appreciate it. Congrats on the new sled and yes I would say that is 100% possible as is with the Arctic Cats that I have. Just make sure that you get the complete setup for each and you should be able to swap your Parts out for the new. Might be a little tedious but in the end it will be well worth it for sure. Working on more content as we speak so as always stay tuned thanks for watching and please share when you can. God bless
Helpful video. RE: 1995 ZRT 800. Have a frozen bad bearing on the driven shaft (belt side) that I can't get off. Got the hex nut out but the rest is frozen on. Any suggestions?
I believe it may have a lock collar on it that has a set screw and then sometimes you just gotta heat that up and get the collar off then try and hit the bearing from the back on the inside race of the bearing right at the shaft with an air hammer and then heat up the bearing real good it should pop off
Thank you! If this or any kther of my videos has helped you or a friend please share the video and channel at least ine time on your social media. Thanks! 🤜💥🤛
So I think I put that chain case bearing back in 180 degrees backwards so that raised metal edge is facing in. Is that going to be an issue? The built in rubber gasket is on the outside vs the side closer to the track. I have the cover alm back on and oiled up already. Rrrrrrr
Yes the flat side of the bearing needs to be facing the track. The protruding inner race of the bearing needs to facing the gear. Just warm the case with map gas torch and then drain. Put old folded shop rags under the Chinese to catch the remaining oil as you pop the cover off. It wontbtake long. You already know what to do. Getting all your tools laid out and ready to use with expedite the process.
Are you talkimg about the lower sprocket nut? Definitely. Sont worry it comes off. Worst case scenario you'll just need skme heat to soften it up before but not usually.
I wonder why you remove the exhaust? The muffler is not in the way. .. i just did this litterly the other day On my cat. But thank you anyway, for the great video..
To me it only takes 2 minutes to remove the exhaust if that and it just makes the whole process easier as well as being able to record what I wanted to that's mainly why I took it out of the way. For the people! LOL thanks for watching and my pleasure.
Go here and look up the year and model and go under the appropriate parts diagram and they will have all the numbers you need. www.arcticcatpartshouse.com/oemparts/c/arctic_cat_snowmobile/parts
Hi Andrew. I bought my daughter a 1990 AC Prowler. I have a new track for it and I just watched your entire video and I ordered everything you recommended. Loctite blue & red, brake cleaner, also Lucas Synthetic 74/140 gear oil… I’m thinking the change out should be about the same? I saw another comment in regards to a 1992 Wildcat and you told him that it should be the same. Wish me luck sir 😆
Good deal. Yes it the same basic principal for removala nd install. Sleds basic drive mechanisms havent change at their core in a long time. You should be good to go.
I just recently purchased a 2001 ZR 600 APV. It runs very well. However, when I apply the brake somewhat hard, there is a crunching/ratcheting noise coiming from down below the track area. When I apply the brake slowly, it does not make any crunching noise. Would you have any input on what this may be? Track feels tight enough, loose chain in chaincase, maybe?
Do you have studs in the track? I would check the tracks inner lugs to see if any are missing if its an older track as well as if you have a 2 cog or 4 cog drive axle. You should only have about 1.25" in the middle of the track in between the hyfax and track when hanging 20lbs of force from it. Also check to see if you have oil in yoir chain case or not and check your gears, typically the top one for rounding of the teeth. Each tooth should have a square-ish end. And when you remove the chaincase cover, check the chain tension, it shouldnt be floppy at all by moving woth your fingers.
@Andrew Crocker - Fixin2Ride I opened up the chaincase and inspected everything. The gears looked good. Chain was a tad loose, so I adjusted that. Fluid was kind of thick and gummy, so I cleaned that out, and I topped it off with new fluid. No shavings, either. But I believe I did get it narrowed down. When I got back on the sled and took it for a ride, I noticed the clutch jamming up when I hit the brake hard. I could see it through the openings of the side dash. I jacked it up in the air to see if it would still do that and nothing. Did it about 3 times, no noise or crunching. It's only when I'm on the sled with hard braking.
@Andrew Crocker - Fixin2Ride I will certainly try tomorrow. I will have it on the trails, and I can have a friend help me. I have the app and should be able to figure it out. Thanks for your help. I'm new to these ZRs, and I'm excited to ride one.
I hope you'll see this. I'm wanting to do a new track on my 92 wildcat. Is it the same as what I saw in this video? Also I'm wanting to put a taller lug track on for stability and whatnot. According to the arctic part store mine came with a 0.85" lug. Can I go taller to like a 1.50" lug without damaging the heat exchanger? Thanks
Hey there. Welcome to the channel! Yes the process is the same and you shoukd be able to get away with a 1.25" lug and be just fine. Here is what I would do. With your sled on the ground, get a flash light and look up under the tunnel near the front drivers on top of the track. If you have about 1/2" clearance you should be able to get a 1.25" lug track. I have never had any issues with tjis size track on any of my sleds that have one. I have 4 sleds with it. I trail ride as well. 1.5" wont do anymore for trail riding except add weight to the sled which will affect rotational weight of the drive system.
01 zr 800. I can't find the bearing to the chain case. I ordered the kit for 600 zr but it's same part number as the 800 bearing but will not go onto chain case side. The bearing for other shaft side fits on chain case but it don't go on that side. Any help please. Thanks
Do you have the collar side sticking out, away from driveshaft? So the flat side of the bearing needs to ride against the lip on the driveshaft and you need to install and lock down the chaincase bearing before the speedo side bearing. You may have set the speedo side bearing too far and it's pushing the chaincase side too far over into the inside of the chaincase.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official-Did you replace the chain case bearing to drive shaft or just use same one? I replaced other end already but can't find a 1" bearing for chain case
By the way, thank you for the video. I just finished installing the track. Now I’m at the chain case and gotta set the tension so I can put it back together and go for a rip.
Yeah Sorry about that. Just screw it in with your fingers until moderately snug (starts to have resistance when turning but not hard to turn) and then lock down the bolt with the lock nut. You don't want the chain to flap around and don't want it tight. Just until the tension idle wheel on the side oft he chain takes the slack out of the chain. Hope this helps! And thanks for watching!
"Go for a rip" good deal. Glad its helping people. I couldnt find a good back when I did my first one so I figured this would be a good video to create.
Can you replace a 136 track and slide from a 2008 crossfire 8 with a 153 track and slide form a 2008 m8? Without major issues? I got a great deal on a 08 crossfire 8 people say it's no good in the mountains.
As long as theres not difference in widths of the tracks. Say 13" to 15" or vise versa and they holes under the tunnel for mounting line you should be good. Just have to check track my clearances. If the rear holes done line up you can often either get a kit and rivet that into the tunnel or make your own. They are made of steel for strength if I understand correctly.
What kind of play are we talking. Side to side or twisting type? Side to side would be shims. You can get some at menards. Youll need to make sure that youre retainer bolt haa enough room as well by the use of waahers if needed. Twisting type would be worn key or possibly worn away on jack shaft or inside driven clutch.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Thanks for the fast reply. Clutch taken apart, cleaned and put back together the same. With belt and bolt back on, if I push and pull on the clutch it moves in and out on the shaft close to 1/2 inch or more. Seems odd....
No prob. You need to put shims on the shaft before the clutch. Manual states 1/8" play on shaft. You want your clutches to be aligned as well. Meaning parallel. You also want the center to center to ne 12.2". This will yeild best belt life and clutch operation.
Sorry for late response. Switched phones and carriers. It's a Composit T320. It should as long as you currently have a 15x121" track. Thisnin a 1.25 lug so you might have to shave the tunnel coolers right above the drive cogs at most.
How did you push in your secondary clutch to remove the belt? I just bought a 2002 ZL600 and it won’t budge at all? Does it need to be lubricated somewhere to loosen it up? BTW, this is by far the best track replacement video on UA-cam!! Thanks!!
Yes you have to push in really firmly and twist to the right or back of the sled. You might be able to put a pry bar across two of the retaining bolts on the top and get it to twist but yes it's tough to push and twist at the same time. But once you get it to move the belt will fall down and keep it open. Thank you for the compliments and thank you very much for watching. All that I ask is that you share my channel and videos with other people.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- One more quick question. Do I have to remove my Secondary Clutch to change out the Track? Mine is stuck on big time! I’d rather not if I can avoid it. Thanks again!!
I understand. Thanks for the tip. I found that a little tiny bit of wd40 helps to keep it from rusting over the winter as dry, they do see a little moisture in there and bare metal get corroded quickly. They come off regularly. So it doesnt seem to cause issues. Thanks for watching.
@@Jiggashmu so you have a front swingarm shock in the rear swingarm shock? I would try lowering the setting on a torsion bar blocks and then also make sure that your front limiter straps are not tightened
Gotcha you can check the connection that is behind the driven clutch there should be a couple right there and then you can also check and see if you are limiter straps too tight. But if not then yeah you can have it rebuilt
![02 Arctic Cat ZR 600 EFI Series Part 4: Apv's [How to Clean Power Valves]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RSFN1iQst1o/mqdefault.jpg)
14:33 thanks, just watched to figure out which way the lower 40t Sprocket went back it. perfect!
2000 zr500, but basiclly the same
Great video! We just changed out our 02 ZL track. Your video was spot on and gave the confidence to get it done. Thanks
Awesome! Glad you found it useful!
Great video! I just did drive shaft bearings on my 02 ZR 800 and your video helped out a lot! Thank you!
Another great video Andrew. Just put some new bearing in the back wheels on my sons 600 M1 Mountian Cat and used your video as a reference for the track tension. Thanks
Thats awesome!! Great job!!! Glad the video helped!
Thanks for watching, my friend!
Great informational video. Good job explaining everything and good camera angles
Thank you very much, glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Gr8 job. U saved me a ton of work.
I only needed the drive shaft bearing replaced inside the chain case.
Thanks!
Good deal. May as well replace the clutch sidee while you're in there. I would. That way you dont have to worry about it. Glad it helped
great video! Thanks for making it. I think most driveshaft bearings have a lock collar on the speedo side. I didn't see that in your video. But all around really nice informative video! I have the exact same sled with reverse. I LOOOOVE it! EFI is the best. Two pulls and it starts everytime! Never seen such a clean snowmobile bellypan area as yours!!!
Glad it helped. Ued lock collar was there and yeah I used a fee diff things on belt pan.
Great video! Doing the same process for 2 of my sleds and you did a great job detailing everything!
Awesome! Thank you so much!
Excellent job, very thorough, I learned a lot, especially on the rear suspension install, I appreciate your time & effort, thank you very much ! looking forward to more of your video's
Thank you. Glad you found it useful. All I ask is to share my channel and videos as much as you can to get the word out there about these awesome machines!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Was very happy to learn of your being a Christian, seems hard to find many these days, take care & God Bless
Yes it does, especially real ones and not just those that break the command of "thou shalt not take the Lords name in vain" (as in claiming to be christian for personal gain... I.E. a vain reason). Glad to meet you Bernie!
Thanks for watching!
I was just watching Digit9 do the same thing on a mountain sled. Good job.
Really? Funny. Hes got some good stuff. Love these tracks though. When you switch contact my boys at West Michigan Snowmobiles. They ll hook you up!
Great vid with no bs.... Just about to get into my 02 ZR 800. The speedo pin just broke due to that jack shaft bearing failure.
Glad you found it useful. Yes that can be the cause. Sometimes the Speedo gear and can dreeze up from sitting and when the sled gets used again it will snap tat wire pin.
Will see what it's like when i get in there. I can hear the bearing squealing right when the clutch engages too.
Oh now thats a diff story. BUT, Primarys can squeal as well or more so portray a squeel.
Great video! I'm not afraid of doing a track now. I just purchased a '99 ZR 700 with a brand new track installed but the speedometer doesn't work. The previous owner included an uninstalled cable which I swapped but still no speed indication. I'm wondering if they forgot something in the speedo gear when they put the new track in. BTW, I didn't know there was a drain plug for the chain case so I did the oil change the hard way by sucking it out with an old outboard motor primer bulb and hose. LOL!
Good deal!? Yeah I would pop the Speedo gear off amd see if there is a transfer pin in it. It might be broken. You might need new bearings.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- So I did indeed pulled the front clutch off and opened up the speedo gear and sure enough, the drive pin was sheared off with half of it missing. I think the previous owner just didnn't bother ordering it when he did the track. I got one on the way now.
FYI, I use a cheap Harbor Freight chain hoist to an eye bolt in the ceiling of my garage to lift the back my sleds. It makes life so much easier! The info in your videos is so helpful. Thank you!
Good deal I figured that pin was sheared. That's normally what it is. Also make sure that when you get the new PIN you can put it in either side of the speedo gear and the little square hole and spin the speedo gear easily with your fingers if not you're going to need to either get a new one or you can actually loosen them up you just need to take a square screwdriver bit and either and that fits properly and work it loose spraying PB Blaster in both ends and then just keep working at loose getting oil in there loosen it up real good then put it in a parts washer keep loosening it up and then put more PB Blaster loosen it up more than keep redoing that and then once you feel that it's cleaned up good enough oil it up again put that square bit into a drill and put it in either end of the speedo gear and crank that thing out a few times just to really clean it out then you can clean it out one more time and lube it up and it should be good.
Also I would be careful about only using an eye bolt for that chain hoist. I ended up drilling a couple holes on either side of a ceiling joist in my garage and wrap the chain around the ceiling joist and then join that together with a coupler and then use that for my chain hoist and I can lift the front end of a big thousand CC Thundercat up with ease and no worry
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- So I have another question about my '99 ZR 700. The previous owner claimed the top end was done pretty recently, maybe 100 miles on it, Shouldn't the compression be a little better than 125 psi per side? Not sure if the crank seals are original.Thanks.
Yes if the top end was done right. A light honing and nee rings, pistons and a good breakin. Meaning no long idling. Typically just one heat cycle to take the stress out of the cast parts and then ride it hard. No long pulls. My 95 ZR 700 engine that I rebuilt has around 136 per cylinder.
Still?! It's March! :D. Awesome video. I just picked up another project sled that needs a new skid/track, so thanks for posting!
Yes sir. I have a bunch to go through. What did you get?
Check this video out. This was from my restore last year... 02 ZR 800 Cross Country... ua-cam.com/video/HZ2oyKmf2jM/v-deo.html
That motor mount is jacked....I saw the engine moving around when you had it engaging with the hood up...that's your low end bog under power that engine is flopping around
Not sure what mount or engine/ sled you're talking about? This sled runs great now after rebuilding the engine and TSS switch...
Watch here.
Https://ua-cam.com/video/IGyR7jHwino/v-deo.html
Thanks very much for the great video, you've saved us a lot of time and effort!
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!
I'm going to be extending my track. Was wondering if have any pointers for it?
Plenty of people use the rail extenders but I would use full sized rails.
Great video..!! I am changing a track on a 2000 zl 550. The only trouble I had was I couldn’t get the bearing off the chain case side if the shaft. Bearing felt good so I just slid the track off with chain case side still attached. I just got everything apart and I am going to reassemble it tomorrow. The reverse makes the Chain case a little more difficult. There is quite a bit going on inside there above a normal setup. We will see how it goes.
Could be that it's just silicone down there and needs to be forced off. The later versions of bearings started thing made with o rings on the inner race to help seal them. So I'm sure some people still used silicone or our TV seal the shaft to the inner race of the bearing. But yeah I feel bearings good then you should be fine
Thanks for the response. On my chain case I have a wound flat spring tensioner that tensions the chain. How much do I tension that spring inside the cover before I fasten it down? Thanks for you quick response. I appreciate guys who take the time to add repairs like this for all of us out here.
Good deal no worries. That should just hook over to little bolts on the tensioners and it's self-tensioning that spring is. Or are you talking about the bolt on the side of the case that goes through the case and pushes on the roller to create tension on the chain? If you're talking about that then if it's not Auto tensioning you loosen the lock nut and then screw the bolt in by hand to where it's only fingertight so just snug with your fingers not cranking on it and then lock the nut down. But if you're talking about the auto tensioner you have to win it all the way in to where it takes attention off and then let it unwind out to where it puts tension on the chain and it will auto adjust from there.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- it’s the auto tensioner. I wound it up enough so I could get it inside the housing then put the cap on and wound it a few more times. I ran the tensioner up by hand first, hand right. Then put on the auto tensioner roll I’m and the sap and gave it a few more turns. Will that end up being to tight?
You should unwind to where it's loose and then let it tighten itself
Awsome video. Followed it to the letter when I changed the track on mine (same year, make, and model). Only question I had not sure if it makes a difference but when. Butting the oil in the chain case I was tought to use the oil fill at the top so the oil coats the chain on the way down. Supposedly it helps chain wear so it's not dry on initial start. Just wondering if that makes a big deal. I replaced the chain so it was dry. I soaked it in fresh oil first but just asking becouse you seem much more experienced in this field then I am. Thank you so much. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Glad it helped. I dont think it matters. The cain will completely.run tjrough the oil at the bottom assign you take off and keep doing that shie moving . I once forgot to add oil to my wifes chaincase snd she put 350 miles on ths sled before the chain and top gear gave way. 🤣
Anyway you can make a video of how to install a tether system??
I can show how they are connected. Would that work? It's pretty simple actually.
Thanks,maybe grn slders with orange wheels✌✌👍👍
Cool idea
What was that braided hose you were messing with towards the end of the video?
That was for the front skid shock. If I remember correctly
Ok must be an aftermarket thing then. I don’t have that
I just looked at it. And that was the skid that came off my 98 zr that had the remote adjustable shock on the front of the skid.
Here we are another ride season,enjoy your content andrew always a joy to watch you wrench,very well and thorough explanations!!as well as good lighting n camera work.when able.i just got a used 90s polaris 400 indy its a nice ripper,fixed in tank line and pump..only it doesnt have reverse or electric start but noticed there is a mount for starter.i wonder do you think i could transplant another sleds reverse box and clutch with starter ring into mine.i saw an indy 500 clutch online with starter set-up and a cat 538 with a reverse box n brake similar to my brake set-up.do you think itll work or any direction u can point me in to make this idea work?snookie pa.
Hey hey welcome back alan! Thanks for the compliments always greatly appreciate it. Congrats on the new sled and yes I would say that is 100% possible as is with the Arctic Cats that I have. Just make sure that you get the complete setup for each and you should be able to swap your Parts out for the new. Might be a little tedious but in the end it will be well worth it for sure. Working on more content as we speak so as always stay tuned thanks for watching and please share when you can. God bless
Nice video Andrew!
Thanks. Glad you liked it!
Great video! Where do you buy your tracks at?
First try West Michigan Snowmobile. Then try Lakes Motorsports in Waterford, MI. Tell them I, from Livonia, sent you!
Helpful video. RE: 1995 ZRT 800. Have a frozen bad bearing on the driven shaft (belt side) that I can't get off. Got the hex nut out but the rest is frozen on. Any suggestions?
I believe it may have a lock collar on it that has a set screw and then sometimes you just gotta heat that up and get the collar off then try and hit the bearing from the back on the inside race of the bearing right at the shaft with an air hammer and then heat up the bearing real good it should pop off
This was a big help thanks 🙏 🙂
Awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Good job !!
Thank you! If this or any kther of my videos has helped you or a friend please share the video and channel at least ine time on your social media. Thanks! 🤜💥🤛
I read some guys do atf in their cases and some do transfer case fluid. Have you tried either ?
There was a guy years ago that used vegetable oil for a full season just to prove that it does really matter as long as something is used.
So I think I put that chain case bearing back in 180 degrees backwards so that raised metal edge is facing in. Is that going to be an issue? The built in rubber gasket is on the outside vs the side closer to the track. I have the cover alm back on and oiled up already. Rrrrrrr
Yes the flat side of the bearing needs to be facing the track. The protruding inner race of the bearing needs to facing the gear. Just warm the case with map gas torch and then drain. Put old folded shop rags under the Chinese to catch the remaining oil as you pop the cover off. It wontbtake long. You already know what to do. Getting all your tools laid out and ready to use with expedite the process.
Are you sure I should be using red lock tight on that. Probably won’t be taking it apart again but still I’m not sure that’s a good idea
Which part?
Are you talkimg about the lower sprocket nut? Definitely. Sont worry it comes off. Worst case scenario you'll just need skme heat to soften it up before but not usually.
So you have to pull the belt drive thing off?
Not the belt cover.
I wonder why you remove the exhaust? The muffler is not in the way. .. i just did this litterly the other day On my cat. But thank you anyway, for the great video..
To me it only takes 2 minutes to remove the exhaust if that and it just makes the whole process easier as well as being able to record what I wanted to that's mainly why I took it out of the way. For the people! LOL thanks for watching and my pleasure.
Good job 👍😃 .what is the name of this orange color or the code.
On the skid? That was a rustoleum orange with Eastwood Hi Gloss 2 Part Epoxy clear coat.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official-ok thank you it looks good. the orange of the engine is what because I really like this color
That is a RAL # powdercoat.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- OK thanks . nice job and have a nice day
Thank you and you as well!
What shocks do you have in that skid? Looking to replace mine on my zl800ss and go away for the ss shocks.
They are fox shocks. Rear is a clicker and front is the remote adjustable.
Do you have part numbers for them?
Go here and look up the year and model and go under the appropriate parts diagram and they will have all the numbers you need. www.arcticcatpartshouse.com/oemparts/c/arctic_cat_snowmobile/parts
Hi Andrew. I bought my daughter a 1990 AC Prowler. I have a new track for it and I just watched your entire video and I ordered everything you recommended. Loctite blue & red, brake cleaner, also Lucas Synthetic 74/140 gear oil… I’m thinking the change out should be about the same? I saw another comment in regards to a 1992 Wildcat and you told him that it should be the same. Wish me luck sir 😆
Good deal. Yes it the same basic principal for removala nd install. Sleds basic drive mechanisms havent change at their core in a long time. You should be good to go.
One thing I wanna do this year is put a water temp gauge on my 99 600 efi jw but is it really only 2 wires and the sensor wire?
Yes.typically. You csm get them digital, round, rectagular and even a piece that you splice right into the moddle of a hose.
I just recently purchased a 2001 ZR 600 APV. It runs very well. However, when I apply the brake somewhat hard, there is a crunching/ratcheting noise coiming from down below the track area. When I apply the brake slowly, it does not make any crunching noise. Would you have any input on what this may be? Track feels tight enough, loose chain in chaincase, maybe?
Do you have studs in the track? I would check the tracks inner lugs to see if any are missing if its an older track as well as if you have a 2 cog or 4 cog drive axle. You should only have about 1.25" in the middle of the track in between the hyfax and track when hanging 20lbs of force from it.
Also check to see if you have oil in yoir chain case or not and check your gears, typically the top one for rounding of the teeth. Each tooth should have a square-ish end. And when you remove the chaincase cover, check the chain tension, it shouldnt be floppy at all by moving woth your fingers.
@Andrew Crocker - Fixin2Ride I opened up the chaincase and inspected everything. The gears looked good. Chain was a tad loose, so I adjusted that. Fluid was kind of thick and gummy, so I cleaned that out, and I topped it off with new fluid. No shavings, either. But I believe I did get it narrowed down. When I got back on the sled and took it for a ride, I noticed the clutch jamming up when I hit the brake hard. I could see it through the openings of the side dash. I jacked it up in the air to see if it would still do that and nothing. Did it about 3 times, no noise or crunching. It's only when I'm on the sled with hard braking.
Can you get some video ans post it to your channel? You can download the youtube app and upload right from your phone through the app...
@Andrew Crocker - Fixin2Ride I will certainly try tomorrow. I will have it on the trails, and I can have a friend help me. I have the app and should be able to figure it out. Thanks for your help. I'm new to these ZRs, and I'm excited to ride one.
Check out my 02 ZR 800 Cross Country...
ua-cam.com/users/shortsWdkyVzlJatc?feature=share
Can I get the link where you bought this track off. Thanks
West Michigan snowmobile parts in Hart Michigan
I hope you'll see this. I'm wanting to do a new track on my 92 wildcat. Is it the same as what I saw in this video? Also I'm wanting to put a taller lug track on for stability and whatnot. According to the arctic part store mine came with a 0.85" lug. Can I go taller to like a 1.50" lug without damaging the heat exchanger? Thanks
Hey there. Welcome to the channel! Yes the process is the same and you shoukd be able to get away with a 1.25" lug and be just fine. Here is what I would do. With your sled on the ground, get a flash light and look up under the tunnel near the front drivers on top of the track. If you have about 1/2" clearance you should be able to get a 1.25" lug track. I have never had any issues with tjis size track on any of my sleds that have one. I have 4 sleds with it. I trail ride as well. 1.5" wont do anymore for trail riding except add weight to the sled which will affect rotational weight of the drive system.
01 zr 800. I can't find the bearing to the chain case. I ordered the kit for 600 zr but it's same part number as the 800 bearing but will not go onto chain case side. The bearing for other shaft side fits on chain case but it don't go on that side. Any help please. Thanks
I'll cash app you every time you help me out with my ZR man. Thanks
Do you have the collar side sticking out, away from driveshaft? So the flat side of the bearing needs to ride against the lip on the driveshaft and you need to install and lock down the chaincase bearing before the speedo side bearing. You may have set the speedo side bearing too far and it's pushing the chaincase side too far over into the inside of the chaincase.
I have a donate button for my PayPal at the top of the homepage if you'd like to do that. Thank you!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official-Did you replace the chain case bearing to drive shaft or just use same one? I replaced other end already but can't find a 1" bearing for chain case
I replaced all the bearings
So what’s the chain tension supposed to be set to? You never said
By the way, thank you for the video. I just finished installing the track. Now I’m at the chain case and gotta set the tension so I can put it back together and go for a rip.
Yeah Sorry about that. Just screw it in with your fingers until moderately snug (starts to have resistance when turning but not hard to turn) and then lock down the bolt with the lock nut. You don't want the chain to flap around and don't want it tight. Just until the tension idle wheel on the side oft he chain takes the slack out of the chain. Hope this helps! And thanks for watching!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- so I wanna make sure to set the tension without the spring thing on. Then after it’s set, put it on? Also merry Christmas
"Go for a rip" good deal. Glad its helping people. I couldnt find a good back when I did my first one so I figured this would be a good video to create.
Yes. That retaining spring goes in last. Merry Christmas to you as well. Sorry for late response. Working in the garage myself. Ha ha
What kind of sealant are you using? RTV
Permatex "The Right Stuff"....
Can you replace a 136 track and slide from a 2008 crossfire 8 with a 153 track and slide form a 2008 m8? Without major issues? I got a great deal on a 08 crossfire 8 people say it's no good in the mountains.
As long as theres not difference in widths of the tracks. Say 13" to 15" or vise versa and they holes under the tunnel for mounting line you should be good. Just have to check track my clearances. If the rear holes done line up you can often either get a kit and rivet that into the tunnel or make your own. They are made of steel for strength if I understand correctly.
great content
Thank you very much! I appreciate it.
Who do you have rebuilding your shocks? I live over by kazoo
A buddy. You can contact Erik Ewen on facebook.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- ok thanks where is he located at in Michigan?
Hed actually northern Indiana. Great guy too. He comes to Michigan to sled all winter.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- ok thanks
You bet! Thanks for watching.
My secondary has wayyy more play then yours. All shims on the back of clutch on shaft. What could be the issue ? Bad key? Any ideas thx
What kind of play are we talking. Side to side or twisting type?
Side to side would be shims. You can get some at menards. Youll need to make sure that youre retainer bolt haa enough room as well by the use of waahers if needed.
Twisting type would be worn key or possibly worn away on jack shaft or inside driven clutch.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Thanks for the fast reply. Clutch taken apart, cleaned and put back together the same. With belt and bolt back on, if I push and pull on the clutch it moves in and out on the shaft close to 1/2 inch or more. Seems odd....
No prob. You need to put shims on the shaft before the clutch. Manual states 1/8" play on shaft. You want your clutches to be aligned as well. Meaning parallel. You also want the center to center to ne 12.2". This will yeild best belt life and clutch operation.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- all shims are on before the clutch too.. (brain scrambling)
Side note. Unreal videos, very informative and helpful. Nice toys!
There's not enough shims is what I'm saying you need to add more. Thank you for the compliments I really appreciate that!
What’s the name of the track used
Will it fit on an arctic cat zr3 700
Sorry for late response. Switched phones and carriers. It's a Composit T320. It should as long as you currently have a 15x121" track. Thisnin a 1.25 lug so you might have to shave the tunnel coolers right above the drive cogs at most.
Nice good job 👍
Thanks Gary. This tracks are awesome! They have taken me anywhere Ive made my selds go.
How did you push in your secondary clutch to remove the belt? I just bought a 2002 ZL600 and it won’t budge at all? Does it need to be lubricated somewhere to loosen it up?
BTW, this is by far the best track replacement video on UA-cam!! Thanks!!
Yes you have to push in really firmly and twist to the right or back of the sled. You might be able to put a pry bar across two of the retaining bolts on the top and get it to twist but yes it's tough to push and twist at the same time. But once you get it to move the belt will fall down and keep it open.
Thank you for the compliments and thank you very much for watching. All that I ask is that you share my channel and videos with other people.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Thanks Bud!! I’ll give it another go and try with a pry bar too!
Thanks for your help!
Subscribed! 👍🏽
Good deal man let me know how it goes and thanks!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- One more quick question. Do I have to remove my Secondary Clutch to change out the Track?
Mine is stuck on big time! I’d rather not if I can avoid it.
Thanks again!!
No just makes it easier. You'll want to check your bearing too.
Everything is good except that you never Lube that secondary clutch before you put it on that shaft clean and dry only
I understand. Thanks for the tip. I found that a little tiny bit of wd40 helps to keep it from rusting over the winter as dry, they do see a little moisture in there and bare metal get corroded quickly. They come off regularly. So it doesnt seem to cause issues. Thanks for watching.
I use chainsaw bar oil it's 30 sae it's really sticky
Nice! That's actually a pretty good idea. Same basic chain use too!
I can't get my suspension to compress. Mine has the 2 shock setup
The rear suspension?
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- yessir. Tried a couple differant ways
@@Jiggashmu so you have a front swingarm shock in the rear swingarm shock? I would try lowering the setting on a torsion bar blocks and then also make sure that your front limiter straps are not tightened
Where do you get shocks rebuilt at
A buddy of mine rebuild them for me.
Oh nice I got a 01 zr 800 I want to have done and then do the track to
Contact Erik Erin for shocks and West michigan snowmobile parts for the track.
The front shock is adjustable on mine with the bottle by the handlebars that shock does not seem to be working
Gotcha you can check the connection that is behind the driven clutch there should be a couple right there and then you can also check and see if you are limiter straps too tight. But if not then yeah you can have it rebuilt
Heat gun is better and safer when heating up your chain case
Yeah your probably right. I dont have one. Have to put that on the list. Ha ha.
Good
Great job
Thx
Looks like them slides need to be changed there to Andrew
Ha ha. Yep! They are crusty as heck! Lol. Look old dried out gator skin or something... That skids going to get a nice rebuild so watch for that.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- ill be waitin there bud
@@edwardabrahamiii3742 ha ha. Soumds good.
I have a Artic cat 600
Good sled!
Chains are cheap sir.
This one is fine for now as far as Im concerned. Lol. Where do you get your chains at?
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- I got mine when I put a reverse kit in . But I have seen them on ebay for pretty cheap before.
@@jmudd5449 gotcha. So not new then?
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- yeah not new
Makes sense. Ill deff contact WMS when I need it thats for sure!
Bravo man
Thanks. Figured it would be a useful video and it's helped a lot of people. Thanks for watching.