Battery Powering Your Wearable Electronics
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Becky Stern gives you tips for choosing the perfect battery solution for your wearable electronics projects: learn.adafruit...
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You guys are awesome!! Im a dad and an instructor, finally my girls are interested in electronics and coding, and all else dad's world.
I learned the hard way that voltage isn't enough... I had a servo that just worked weird when on a 9v battery and worked fine when the project was connected to the computer. I kept putting it off because "something weird was going on" (before I noticed it was only acting weird on battery power) until I replaced it with 4xAAs which give less voltage but drive more power. It's connected to an Arduino so it's regulated anyway.
It may be trivial to some, but at my level then it really wasn't.
Thanks! I've been looking for this kind of info for a while. However, how do you calculate the power required by the project. I know you mentioned calculating the amperage required by the project but when you have a lot of items connected plus powering the Arduino it can get a bit out of hand and voltages required (if added) exceed 12V by a mile, maybe I'm adding it wrong? Amps, however, seem to add up nicely, but I'm not sure if the calculations are right. Series? Parallel? Thanks for any tips and or guidance on this!
Add the total current draw (amps, not volts) of your components, usually available on the product page or data sheet. Arduinos and their connected components usually require 3 or 5 volts (they all use this same voltage, no adding), so look for a battery that matches the voltage needed and exceeds your amperage total.
Adafruit Industries So technically it doesn't matter how many Volts as long as the constant feed to Arduino is 5V? My concern is because I have a total of 14 LEDs of different colors, hence, different voltages - in groups. However, the max amp current is barely 435mA all summed together. On the other hand, Voltages add to 10.6V (more than my 4 x AA battery in series battery array 6.0V@3000mAH at most). I mean, the volts have got to count somewhere, no? :)
It should be noted that rechargeable AA and AAA batteries are only 1.2V not 1.5V. It doesn't seem like a big difference but it adds up really quick.
Actually, most rechargeable AA and AAA have a 'nominal' voltage of 1.2v. When fully charged they actually charge to more like 1.4v. Under load they drop down to around 1.2v, but hold that better than non rechargeables usually do.
If you have an insane portable project that pulls a lot of current, say, a bunch of LED strips or matrices, consider a USB-PD power bank, a Power Delivery "decoy" board, and a high current buck converter. Set the decoy to request the highest voltage the power bank supports (at least 12 volts), place the buck converter as close to your LEDs as possible, and hook them up. If you can get away with running the USB-C cable for most of the length, go for that because good USB-PD cables are rated for high voltage and current. Power banks that can charge laptops are ideal here.
Wait wait, where can I get that USB cable with the blue moving lights? That's awesome. I found some cables on Amazon but some cables will blow if used with high speed chargers.
how do you protect the lipos from being discharged under the safety value?
Erm. 1.2v battery...
So in theory could you power everything (in my case, two 12-diode NeoPixel Rings rigged to a Gemma M0) with the USB port and a 5V power bank? I've assumed that since you have a separate JST socket for powering then it means you shouldnt use the USB one for powering the board, but maybe I'm wrong.
Hi there. I just love the work you do at Ada. I'm 43 now and was quite adicted to electronics from the age of 14 to 20. Then we moved and i packed everything in boxes and i forgot the hobby. BUT it's waking up again, stronger than ever. So the adiction is rising.
Chears and greatings from Luxemburg-Europe
Can you make a Video about the LiFePo4 Battery Type. I use them alot for 3.3V boards. They have Voltages of 3.2V-3.6V depending if their empty or full. they have less Capacity then Lipo batterys but because you need no protection or voltage boosters they last longer. Got my ESP8266 current down to 18uA in DeepSleep with one LiFePo4 cell. This make my esp8266 able to sleep 9 years in theorie
It bugs me that Neopixel data claims they are 5V, even Adafruit say 4-6V, and then we run them off 3.6V. I like designs to work on paper, before I commit to building them.
What do you think of using 3.7v 18650 li ion batteries? Do you think they offer enough advantages over NiMH?
I had my Li Po nearly blow up after I crashed my Remote Control Helicopher :(
nothing about lithium polymer battery thermal runaway in there...
Bendable batteries, please.
Hi Becky, great video on batteries and wearable. My problem is powering my Neopixel WS2812 ring (12 pixel). I have changed the "Strandtest " code for brightness of pixels, that is working good when running off USB port. I try to light them up with 3 AA battery pack (3.6V) and tried higher voltage power supplies. Sometimes several light will turn on and sometime they will not unless I disconnect and reconnect power but the ring will not run the program like when using the USB port. I also used the 3.7v 1200Ah poly battery. Any suggestion as to what I'm doing wrong? Is there another video that might help? I'm using Arduino Uno.
Thank,
shinythings
+Bruce Cornwell Sounds like there might be something up with your wiring. Please post your code and photos of your circuit on forums.adafruit.com so our engineers can assist you!
If you have a multimeter, check that the battery's negative terminal has continuity with circuit ground and LEDs' negative terminals. NeoPixels can behave _super_ weird if the grounds aren't connected or if the connection is iffy.
I've also encountered flaky performance when there's long or thin wires, in which case a small capacitor across the LEDs' +/- terminals can help (I forgot to include a capacitor in a project once).
You _can_ power the microcontroller and LEDs with separate power sources, but you _must_ make sure their grounds are all connected.
At 2:22 you brutally unplug that JST connector. I'm pretty cautious with mine because the wires feel so fragile. Clearly you have a lot more experience than I do. What is your recommendation for how to handle JST plugs on LiPo batteries?
Thanks for this. I am trying to power a Circuit Playground Express from a powerbank but it keep switching off after a few seconds - presumably because it is not drawing enough power. How can I get around that please? I want to run an outdoor art installation
I purchased the Adafruit Circuit Playground Express 'kit' which included the Adafruit battery pack 3x AAA
However I cannot seem to get the Circuit Playg Express to be powered by the battery pack
It works perfectly with through my computer via USB but when I unplug it to then use it with the batteries alone, nothing happens, not even a green light to show it turning on
I have tried both switches on the circuit and on the actual battery pack. I have also tried a new set of batteries but no luck
Am I missing something obvious? Or is my adafruit not working fully? Please help !
is it possible to power a lithium coin cell with a wireless charge system? Thanks, by the way! very useful video!
What about solar battery chargers? Any idea if tey could work to recharge in real time?
gente , help! to cm esse adafruit developer edition atsmd21 e n to sabendo nd cm ele e preciiso descobrir ate amanhã como conecto ele no arduino ou se ele ja tiver as funcionalidades de um arduino mega(pelo q eu entendi ele tem) como faço p ligar um modulo wifi ESP8266 nele? dáp ligar modulo wifi nele?
You said that you can drive 100 pixels with 2 amps, but in the adafruit website it says the max current if 55mA per LED. so it would take 5.5A to drive 100 neopixels. Am I doing something wrong? why this difference?
prolly she meant single color mode?
This was 4 years ago but the answer is that each LED can draw 55 mA when at 100% brightness and in full white mode. Really there is no reason to do this as 40% brightness is still very bright. I estimate that each led actually pulls between 15-25 mA at reasonable brightness when not spamming white lights
That necklace is great.
If I want to put buttons on the sleeves to power turn signals on the back of the garment, does that require more power because of the long length down the sleeve?
Unless your arms are inhumanly long, no.
Hello! I'd like to power 3 meters of dotstar LEDs attached to a FLORA platform: 432 LEDs! How much power do I need? And it should be a wearable project, so, is there a portable source of power that you suggest/sell at adafruit to buy together with the dotstars and flora? Thanks, thank you very much in advance!
+Patrizio Pierattini Figure 20ma per led. so 432 x 0.02 amps = 8.64 amps. But realistically only half the LED's are on at any give time, so half that, about 4.3 amps. Get a really big battery, the battery will heat up, and with something you wear, it could burn you. I would use 3 Alkaline "D" cells in a battery holder. Also follow the AdaFruit recommendation to supply power over 18 guage wires to each section of the 3 separate one meter long LED strips. I just bought the Adafruit dotstar LED strips, and they work great.
Oh Thanks I just saw this!
Effing fantastic.
Becky, you rock!
Thank You !
awesome vid!!!!
1:21 Becky's face
Can we cover the project with hot glue to protect it from rain and moisture?
electronic wearables project 1 Forties Meets Future