I have a good trick for you so you do NOT have to remove the rear shock to get the hidden bolt. Put the BIT in the head as you would. Now slip a 10mm closed end of a wrench over it. Use the two wrench trick to get leverage and turn....it breaks free and then you can use the 10mm to turn it and get it out. Worked great for us. And thanks for the awesome step by step video !
If you have a really stuck bolt like I did too u can just get a 5/16 Allen and cut a little bit off of it so it sits lower in the socket and boom no more clearance issue
Just did this yesterday on a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro. Not sure about other years or the FWD A4 but for me the old rotors slid out and the new rotor slipped in without me having to touch the caliper bracket at all. Not even removing the top bolt and pivoting it. I say this because you should try and not touch that if you don't have to because for me at least it was difficult to find a torque wrench small enough to fit in the gap and strong enough to torque the bolts to 52 pounds. Both rotors in the back were seized on pretty good. I had to go to town on them with a rubber mallet to break them loose. Also both calipers were heavily covered in rust and both pistons were frozen so the caliper spiral tool, which you can borrow from O'Reillys, didn't work all that well. I had to keep going back and forth between it and the needle nose plies but Eventually after messing around with them and yanking the parking break a couple of times I broke them free and was able to push them back in fairly easily. Other than that didn't have too many other snags. However I will say that the torx screws that go into the rotor to hold them onto the hub are THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE. Are they even necessary?
Thanks for the nice video. One thing I discovered while doing this brake job, is that you don't really need to remove the shock to reach that lower M8 hex bolt on the carrier bracket. After removing the upper bolt, I was able to gently tap the bracket so that it rotated on the lower bolt just a bit. This gives you enough room to slide the rotor in/out without disassembling the carrier.
+Peter N Thanks for checking us out and the added tip. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the replacement brake rotors and pads on our website. Here's a link to them. Hope this helps out www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02356#UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&
I seen brake job video.. for the cars I had, but none show you removing the brake master cylinder lid, to compress the piston back in its place? Is that nessesaey, or how about loosening the bleed screw at the rotor when compressing the piston back in ?
Do you need a computer to release the parking brake or do you just force off the caliber and rotate it back in? Confused if a computer is actually needed.
I just wanted to say I really appreciate you guys and your videos I’m a do it myself kind of mechanic and you guys really help me to be able to do that
+TacoBroski Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
thanks for the video, informative and good quality. just curious about when you compress your piston back in, do you recommend "crimping off" the brake line or opening the bleeder valve? ive seen in other videos these techniques in an attempt to not push fluid back into the master cylinder. thanks for the video and answer to question
+Tracey ODonnell No need for all that. You're better off simply opening up the master cylinder reservoir. This will allow any excess fluid to overflow, but more importantly it keeps the system from building too much pressure. This allows you to push the piston back in more easily. Opening the bleeder valve would do the same thing, except it may allow air into the system whereas simply taking the cap off the fill reservoir causes the fluid in there to act as a 1-way valve. Let us know how the repair turns out! Good luck. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02356?f=1028487&y=2007&UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Hi. How are you. A question: I have to Audi 2004. A4 Quattro 1.8. Panel light turned on ( check engine. ) Code P0302. The found coolant inside cylinder, so they ll remove head to repair,most likely head gasket. They did, but 8 days later, from the repair, he turned the light on the panel ( check engine ) the same code. What could it be
+Ritmo Latino PDX Thank you for watching. We're sorry to hear of your car troubles, and P0302 could be caused by a series of things. We hope that a local shop may find the reason for your engine light code. 1aauto.com
+Cody S We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Dude how are you going to say you can just rotate the piston back in but then not show ur self doing it I’ve spun it 3,000 times no success your a liar
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
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I have a good trick for you so you do NOT have to remove the rear shock to get the hidden bolt. Put the BIT in the head as you would. Now slip a 10mm closed end of a wrench over it. Use the two wrench trick to get leverage and turn....it breaks free and then you can use the 10mm to turn it and get it out. Worked great for us. And thanks for the awesome step by step video !
If you have a really stuck bolt like I did too u can just get a 5/16 Allen and cut a little bit off of it so it sits lower in the socket and boom no more clearance issue
Good video, cheers for uploading, didn't need to undo suspension strut,, rotor simply "wiggled" free, new rotor slid straight in 👍
Just did this yesterday on a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro. Not sure about other years or the FWD A4 but for me the old rotors slid out and the new rotor slipped in without me having to touch the caliper bracket at all. Not even removing the top bolt and pivoting it. I say this because you should try and not touch that if you don't have to because for me at least it was difficult to find a torque wrench small enough to fit in the gap and strong enough to torque the bolts to 52 pounds. Both rotors in the back were seized on pretty good. I had to go to town on them with a rubber mallet to break them loose. Also both calipers were heavily covered in rust and both pistons were frozen so the caliper spiral tool, which you can borrow from O'Reillys, didn't work all that well. I had to keep going back and forth between it and the needle nose plies but Eventually after messing around with them and yanking the parking break a couple of times I broke them free and was able to push them back in fairly easily. Other than that didn't have too many other snags. However I will say that the torx screws that go into the rotor to hold them onto the hub are THE BANE OF MY EXISTENCE. Are they even necessary?
No they are not necessary once you get those bastards out just leave them out it is just for easy assembly. I had to drill mine out 😖
Thanks for the nice video. One thing I discovered while doing this brake job, is that you don't really need to remove the shock to reach that lower M8 hex bolt on the carrier bracket. After removing the upper bolt, I was able to gently tap the bracket so that it rotated on the lower bolt just a bit. This gives you enough room to slide the rotor in/out without disassembling the carrier.
+Peter N Thanks for checking us out and the added tip. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair we carry the replacement brake rotors and pads on our website. Here's a link to them. Hope this helps out www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02356#UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&
No need to remove caliper bracket. If you wiggle it around and with the right angle it will come right out.
What the rotor? Are you saying I can get the rotor out without removing the bracket?
I seen brake job video.. for the cars I had, but none show you removing the brake master cylinder lid, to compress the piston back in its place? Is that nessesaey, or how about loosening the bleed screw at the rotor when compressing the piston back in ?
It is necessary because you're essentially squeezing the brake fluid in the opposite direction when you're pushing the piston back.
Do you need a computer to release the parking brake or do you just force off the caliber and rotate it back in?
Confused if a computer is actually needed.
What thickness are the disc rotors?
What is the reasoning for removing the shock?
I just wanted to say I really appreciate you guys and your videos I’m a do it myself kind of mechanic and you guys really help me to be able to do that
+TacoBroski Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Hey I have the same car but I have a problem where my epc light will not go off I can’t find the problem
Any way I can do it without removing the bottom shock bolt or is this the easiest way to do it ??
Just finished one...removed the shock bolt...shock didn't want to move. So I just took out the top bolt, gave it a smack, and the rotor wiggled out.
My favorite part is when he gives lots of torque specs, but only uses the torque ratchet twice! Lol
a question. do you must take out the caliper in order to replace the rotor?
+simo Thank you for checking us out. You will need to remove the caliper and bracket to fully remove the rotor. 1aauto.com
simo duh wtf ? Kinda question is that ?
thanks for the video, informative and good quality. just curious about when you compress your piston back in, do you recommend "crimping off" the brake line or opening the bleeder valve? ive seen in other videos these techniques in an attempt to not push fluid back into the master cylinder. thanks for the video and answer to question
+Tracey ODonnell No need for all that. You're better off simply opening up the master cylinder reservoir. This will allow any excess fluid to overflow, but more importantly it keeps the system from building too much pressure. This allows you to push the piston back in more easily. Opening the bleeder valve would do the same thing, except it may allow air into the system whereas simply taking the cap off the fill reservoir causes the fluid in there to act as a 1-way valve. Let us know how the repair turns out! Good luck. For anyone else who might be doing this job, we carry the parts shown in the video on our website. Order from us and we'll cover the shipping. Here's a link: www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit/i/1abfs02356?f=1028487&y=2007&UA-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Hi. How are you. A question:
I have to Audi 2004. A4 Quattro 1.8.
Panel light turned on ( check engine. )
Code P0302. The found coolant inside cylinder, so they ll remove head to repair,most likely head gasket.
They did, but 8 days later, from the repair, he turned the light on the panel ( check engine ) the same code. What could it be
+Ritmo Latino PDX Thank you for watching. We're sorry to hear of your car troubles, and P0302 could be caused by a series of things. We hope that a local shop may find the reason for your engine light code. 1aauto.com
Does this apply to quattro s-lines?
only A4 with different sized brakes is the RS4. A4 and S4 are the same.
Do I need to replace the wear sensor also or not necessarily
+michael morkous It's always a good idea to replace them while you are there. Thanks for watching!
@@1AAuto thanks for the reply my last question is are the sensors only on one wheel or all of them
+michael morkous These models will have one sensor for the rear and one for the front. 1aauto.com
What happens if you force the Piston inwards without turning it
you can't just force it back. you need to release the electric brake motor in order to retract the piston.
Can you rotate it back like in the video?
He doesn’t show or mention anything about the parking brake motor.
Isn’t that why you rotate the piston?
Quite a lot of pad left on those.....
EXCELLENT
The caliper won't go in, no matter how much I spin it
+Cody S We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
a spanner on bolts that have been on for many years?. removing the shocker bolt is the best way, and if your not careful u will strip the head..
+Simon Gard Thank you for checking us out, and the feedback. 1aauto.com
I cannot for the life of me get the rotor off. Any hints. No, hammer does not do the trick.
👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Dude how are you going to say you can just rotate the piston back in but then not show ur self doing it I’ve spun it 3,000 times no success your a liar
How did you fix that issue
@@codyblankenship7213 pop the lid on the reservoir