You asked for comments. A lathe needs to be tweaked so it performs to its best potential. If the headstock and tailstock are not aligned, you will machine a taper. It seems the tailstock had shims added by a previous owner to correct some horizontal alignment. You may need to revisit these shims. A test bar is normally used to align the headstock to tailstock front-to-back. You attempted to align with these in contact at the headstock end of the bed. You also need to check alignment some distance from the headstock, which is when a test-bar is used. Look up videos on making and using test-bars on the lathe. If the lathe bed rails are not aligned front-to-back so have some twist, you will machine a taper. If the work is not held at the centreline, you will machine a taper. If the tool tip is not at centreline, you may have a problem, such as leaving a nib if too low, or not wanting to cut if too high. Parting tools are the most sensitive to being at right angles to the face of the chuck and on centreline. You should be using the dial indicator to test the work is centred in your independent 4 jaw chuck. You can dial in the work to be as accurate as the stock diameter. I would purchase some O1 drill rod stock to use in the chuck for alignment. This has the best concentric diameter for stock, much less expensive than a "test bar". It may be less than 1 thou off concentric dimension. The large drill you showed is a centre drill. I use this all the time to drill a centre hole. The drills are short, stubby and do not flex. The standard twist drill you used to try and get a centre hole would flex on any existing hole and make the hole larger, but not centred. I use 1/4in dia centre drills often. These are inexpensive. I highly recommend you purchase a few. The tips can easily break, so since they are inexpensive, get two or three when you order. The tailstock end of the push mower assembly was not running true, since you were not able to get this aligned properly. You dial indicator may need cleaning. They do not need much lubrication. Special instrument oil is recommended, and much less than you may expect. A fellow UA-camr Doubleboost, had a friend, Bob make some very useful videos on care and maintenance of measuring instruments. The northeast UK accent may be difficult to understand, but Bob knows how to disassemble, clean and re-assemble these delicate instruments. This link is the first in his series. ua-cam.com/video/78Kd0ZN7W90/v-deo.html There are videos of folks making Quick Change Tool Post holders for a Dremel style tool. This may be a better method to get a good edge on the push mower blade assembly. Dave.
thanks for all the tips, and yeah i noticed a few of those issues but didnt care for this because these blades dont have to be perfect, just had to blow trough the rust that ate them away unequally. and yeah i was expecting to get the dial indicator restored before using the lathe but then this came up. its my highest priorit still though. and after that i am not going to bother with centering anything since i need to take everything apart first anyway. especially the tailstock, chuck, and headstock since they have a lot of junk in them
There are lots of videos on disassembly and cleaning of chucks. The headstock has plain bearings, common for metal lathes for decades. They often have scores from small particles getting into the bearing since normally no seals. The plain bearings are not designed for thrust loads - parallel to the lathe bed. There is normally some thrust washer on the outside of the spindle with adjustment. When you get to the point of taking the headstock apart, post a video with the components so folks can comment or advise. Dave.
That indicator is shot. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight that will get you started. Ebay has them too. There is a book/pamphlet called " South Bend, How to run a lathe." You can find them reprinted from Lindsey books on Ebay or at places like Abe's books. It will greatly help you. Stick with it.
WOW, I've never seen a lathe used in such a way, and it allowed your grass cutting to be improved. The helical blades would have been blunted unless the blades were severely rusted and uneven. But you proved the Lathe and ingenuity prevail. Smart thinking. Thanks
wow, I'm Impressed. I never would have thought that would work out, Good job! Love the old lathe, you got a great deal. I settled for a clapped out $200 used taiwan one. An old one like yours is 1000-2000 around here, So even I was fairly lucky to get a $200 taiwan one. Lathe On! haha
Hey . That was a really good job you did on that mower . I just picked up one to restore today still on my truck . Matter of fact I left one behind that the reel was very rusty . After seeing what you did I will go back and get it too , as it is the older one . Not as old as yours but maybe mid forties . You took great pains to center the reel on your Lathe . High five on that . enjoyed both videos . Thanks again George . . PS : you even thought someone that has been sharpening for 50m years a new trick . I have been doing machinal work for more than 50 years but I am open to learing new tricks . Maybe I have forgot some Ha Ha Ha
The lathe idea isn't as bad as you think. However, instead of a high speed cutter, or even a carbine cutter, why not rig up a spinning grinding wheel to move across the spinning lawn more reel? It would actually sharpen the helical blades way better then any single cutter could. JMHO
Those giant interrupted cuts are brutal on any cutting tool. The file was probably a better idea, but dangerous as hell. Blah blah blah, be careful, blah blah my cousins neighbors great grandmas nieces son lost his hand that way.
@@RinoaL Nothing funny about losing a limb. You are way to smart to be doing that. Get a small grinder at Harbor Freight. It would work well for that. Please stay safe.
Hey! This is about to be my first lathe project as well! I just got a 20 year old motorized reel mower, that's all rusty, I just milled the flat blade piece, now I need to make sure the reel is even.
It truly is a combination of art and science to do work with an old lathe, something I too wish to learn some day. But first, welding! (once I can afford proper good-old-used-tools). Looks like the file does pretty good for the reel! Hope there isn't any grit in the dial indicator!
The better way to sharpen that blade is by hand, or mount a small rotary grinder to your tool post, and grind the cutting edge in a horizontal motion while the lathe is off. I love your videos and you are very smart but the risk level to your fingers is high with that lathe spinning a mower blade. If something goes wrong you could lose a hand. It's just not worth the risk.
@@RinoaL Your videos are great and you are careful. I had a lathe mechanically malfunction while I was using it, the part came loose and I almost lost my fingers. They were reattached (my fingers). I care for you and just was sharing my concerns.
@@RinoaL a lathe is like a bear in a cage, if you dont get too close it cant hurt you unless it throws stuff out. it looks like you take good care. no loose dangly things like ties, ropes, loops on tools and long sandpaper strips. its like a blender and even with that small motor its not going to stop
What is manufacturing year of Lathe Machine you are working on? I used to sharpen these blades on lathe with a tool post electric grinder attachment in 1978 .
Need a live center that dead center will just create friction which causes heat if your doing critical work like say a bearing fit heat is your worst enemy heat will make your part grow and give false readings on your mics always let a part cool before making final cut unless its a non critical part with loose tolerances heat can make your part swell a good 5 thous somtimes more not to mention the less heat the longer your cutting tools will last
Put an old bolt in the chuck and turn a centre point on it. Then put a rolling centre in the tail stock. With a clock on the tool post turn a diamiter on each end of a long bar at the same tool position and mesure the difference. Shift tail stock accordingly.
I know your looking in to refurbishing this lovely old lathe, but one thing you really have to get right are the headstock bearings, as they look to be Babbit bearings, a poured lead based bearing. These can be easily damaged if not well lubricated and have to be set (clamped) around the drive shaft very precisely, normally done with shims. If you can find any sort of manual for the lathe, get it, if it's for nothing else other than this information. I look forward to seeing you restore the lathe and your approach to doing it.
the binding is from the dead center in the tailstock you have crammed into the shaft if your using a dead center a dab of grease helps but also the center drill cone shape and the tail stock centers are the same. a live center spins its got bearings in it the dead center like the name dead doesnt move mostly used for knurling on manual lathes . and the best way to sharpen the blades if there really beat up and rough is put it the lathe or a vblock stand and use a grinder or sander flap wheel on a grinder with the wheel set so the blade touches the face not the edge and then run it back and forth like you were with the cutting tool and feed in lil bit at a time until the whole things even and shiny and then sharpen the knife in the base assemble then use the lapping compound trick with a hand drill to turn the reel.
@@RinoaL there nothing machining done quickly, quickly nets you bad results. The extra time to set up a machine correctly makes up for it's self in the long run. Machines are cold and unforgiving, please slow down around machines speed comes with experience.
i did it quickly, only focusing on learning a few things this time, and the results were better than i expected. next time ill try to include a few more improvements and such. but for this, i was trying to just get through with it as fast as i could to not waste time and so i didnt spend days to think everything through. after all, i was just cleaning rust off a reel mower blade. no sense in wasting effort on something that doesnt need it, and then to waste time trying to get things working perfectly while daylight is fading for my main project.
Once you get a steady rest a hood way to.true up a part if your tailstock is true would be to take a centerdrill and touch off on the face of your part and it will create a circle adjust your steady rest until centerdrill is hitting dead center and that gets you almost perfectly centered up everytime the smaller the centerdrill the better
A steady rest wouldn’t do you any good. You should get yourself a live centre and a dial indicator to actually check your concentricity. A lathe should be able to take an axial load. Likely it was improperly re assembled
Rinoa Super-Genius if your objective is to make sure you drill in the centre than yes a steady rest would help. Although if you found a smaller sized centre drill that would probably be favourable and cheaper. They are designed to be rigid enough to make very centralized holes (because of their cutting geometry and short length).
Hibbie jibbies overflow ;) That blade spinning in the lathe looks like the most sketchy/dangerous thing I ever see in a lathe. Note: I have 0 real experience with lathes, just AVE, This Old Tony, ...maybe it is just fine, but the hibbie jibbies shooting through my spine... XD
Those old journal bearings can be tweaked a bit and should have a bronze thrust washer/bearing. If it’s been “restored”, someone may have left out the bearing or installed it incorrectly.
I'm all for learning new stuff, for love your hand and limbs, please pick something other than a lawn mover blade to start with. I'm glad it works better. Tho good job.
This ole Tony, has mastered the technique of cutting metal with kungfu chops, check him out if ya haven't, remember SAFETY SQUINTS, MOTHER ON SPEED DIAL, THE STATE IF CALIFONIA CAUSES CANCER.
Well done! (a) Aligning a 4-jaw chuck without an indicator? Level 374 moxie right there! :D (b)you showed a huge centre drill, maybe a #5 or something. You could probably find some smaller, say #2 or #3 centre drills, online cheap, and those would fit nicely in your tailstock chuck. (c) When drilling, cutting oil is definitely a good idea; otherwise your drills will last about three seconds. (d) Your technique with the file, holding it in the left hand and guiding with your right, was perfect. WTG Rinoa, from a real-life lathe operator!
well thank you! Next up, i think i'll take a look at that sticky dial indicator. or i might do a joke video trying to machine with Calcium Carbide. haha
Take a piece of stock make light cuts on it and measure each end adjust your tailstock until you get the same o.d. end to end and your tailstock will be on center
If you mount the blade again and make jig and use a belt sander with fine paper and get a 22 degree angle on the cutting side would be perfect but no more of the other too dangerous
There are vids on you tube on how to repair and set up a lathe you should check em out also a good micrometer and dial indicator are your best friends with this tool , does look like it has massive wear and a lot of loose movement start with making sure it`s put together right so you don`t break something or hurt yourself
@@RinoaL True but it is a good place to start , it`s one thing to just watch when you don`t own it and another when you need to know how to set up or repair
@@RinoaL Fair enough , I wasn`t trying to aggravate you just trying to help I have several dvd on woodworking but till I actually started doing it I didn`t really learn woodworking
@@RinoaL I would keep your eye open for a second hand 3 jaw. A tip for the 4 jaw is after you have it set mark 2 of the key slots and only undo those 2 to take the stock out, that way when you put it back in its still on center
I appreciate the work you did, but I'm very concerned about your lack of knowledge at this time, especially for such a job as the lawn mower reel. Using the file as you did on such an item in the lathe is potentially dangerous. The hole used to support the tailstock centre is 118° (drill angle) the centre is 60°. Normally a dead centre (one that does not rotate with the workpiece) should be lubricated. The centre drill design allows oil to sit within the smaller diameter, providing lubrication to the dead centre. (I understand you were unable to use a centre drill). I am pleasantly surprised you managed as well as you did. 🙂 PLEASE find a local machinist to give you some advice on using the lathe. Best wishes for your next project(s)
@@RinoaL i cant tell a know.it all gets nowhere no matter how long you do machine work you will always learn somthing new there is to much to it to even learn in a lifetime
It is more common to draw file the blades while they are still in the mower. A home made fixture is required. A lot safer thsn your method. There are a lot of beginner videos on youtube. Yes Headstock.
I think that was way more dangerous than you think. Work on smaller stuff without interruptions in it for a while. Watch things get thrown across your shop. Then tackle stuff like this.
Good attempt, considering the lack of tools and indicators etc. Interrupted cuts like that are probably too advanced for your first steps, but well done for trying :-) Obviously safety is important, the machine itself with that belt isn't too powerful but once you start spinning large work pieces like that blade assembly remember to account for the amount of energy it contains once its spinning, enough to do serious damage and is a serious entanglement risk with hands, clothes and hair. Nice start though perhaps try and do some basic turning of small stock, it will be interesting to see how you progress. Good luck :-)
I aplaud you for trying and succeeded without seriously injury but that tiny indent in the end of the mower cylinder was nowhere near deep enough, you would also have been safer with a "live" centre which spins with the workpiece. Believe me! If the cutting tool had taken just a bit too much of a bite your work would have become airbourne and don't even think about what could have happened! Also a mower cylinder would have been ground not cut. But I'm glad you survived, just be very careful and have a think about the consiquences of things going pear shaped as I've seen far too many industrial accidents in my time, some life changing.
What are you doing ! You can’t sharpen a cylinder blade concentric to the turn of a lathe. Each blade has back rake. Ie it needs to be ground on a different helical plane to the blade as a hole otherwise it will rub on the bottom blade.
if you slow it down its even more obvious its just tricking your eyes. if you really cant wrap your head around it, look at the set screw coming out of the center shaft that holds the blade brackets on.
Yes, it does look like the mower blade is spinning backward. That is an effect of the camera shutter speed or frame rate,... nothing new here, move along,...
this mower had sat so long that some blades rusted deeper than others. it would take days and days of sharpening to really get them all flat the normal way. now they are all mostly even and i can do it a few times the normal way and they will be good.
Trying to workout if this is a spoof video. Massive admiration for your "have a go" attitude, but there's so much wrong with this project. For gods keep your hands well away from a revolving blade until it comes to a dead stop. Having your fingers that near made me cringe. With such a large overhang your dead lucky that blade didn't whip out the chuck whilst drilling like that. Suggest you mark up the end and put it under a pillar drill and use a centre drill. You really need a live center in that tail stock. The feed and speed is too fast for an interrupted cut, especially on toughened steel. A file is only meant to cut in one direction, so running backwards will trash the file. Maybe work on hooking up grinder to the tool post, this will produce a better result.
Ya know, im sure i have that handbook someplace. so im not going to bother buying one unless i see one at a flea market or i get my library out of storage and categorized.
Trying to workout if this is a spoof video. Massive admiration for your "have a go" attitude, but there's so much wrong with this project. For gods keep your hands well away from a revolving blade until it comes to a dead stop. Having your fingers that near made me cringe. With such a large overhang your dead lucky that blade didn't whip out the chuck whilst drilling like that. Suggest you mark up the end and put it under a pillar drill and use a centre drill. You really need a live center in that tail stock. The feed and speed is too fast for an interrupted cut, especially on toughened steel. A file is only meant to cut in one direction, so running backwards will trash the file. Maybe work on hooking up grinder to the tool post, this will produce a better result.
I love the way your mind works! And it works!
You asked for comments.
A lathe needs to be tweaked so it performs to its best potential.
If the headstock and tailstock are not aligned, you will machine a taper. It seems the tailstock had shims added by a previous owner to correct some horizontal alignment. You may need to revisit these shims.
A test bar is normally used to align the headstock to tailstock front-to-back. You attempted to align with these in contact at the headstock end of the bed. You also need to check alignment some distance from the headstock, which is when a test-bar is used. Look up videos on making and using test-bars on the lathe.
If the lathe bed rails are not aligned front-to-back so have some twist, you will machine a taper.
If the work is not held at the centreline, you will machine a taper.
If the tool tip is not at centreline, you may have a problem, such as leaving a nib if too low, or not wanting to cut if too high. Parting tools are the most sensitive to being at right angles to the face of the chuck and on centreline.
You should be using the dial indicator to test the work is centred in your independent 4 jaw chuck. You can dial in the work to be as accurate as the stock diameter.
I would purchase some O1 drill rod stock to use in the chuck for alignment. This has the best concentric diameter for stock, much less expensive than a "test bar". It may be less than 1 thou off concentric dimension.
The large drill you showed is a centre drill. I use this all the time to drill a centre hole. The drills are short, stubby and do not flex. The standard twist drill you used to try and get a centre hole would flex on any existing hole and make the hole larger, but not centred. I use 1/4in dia centre drills often. These are inexpensive. I highly recommend you purchase a few. The tips can easily break, so since they are inexpensive, get two or three when you order.
The tailstock end of the push mower assembly was not running true, since you were not able to get this aligned properly.
You dial indicator may need cleaning. They do not need much lubrication. Special instrument oil is recommended, and much less than you may expect.
A fellow UA-camr Doubleboost, had a friend, Bob make some very useful videos on care and maintenance of measuring instruments. The northeast UK accent may be difficult to understand, but Bob knows how to disassemble, clean and re-assemble these delicate instruments. This link is the first in his series.
ua-cam.com/video/78Kd0ZN7W90/v-deo.html
There are videos of folks making Quick Change Tool Post holders for a Dremel style tool. This may be a better method to get a good edge on the push mower blade assembly.
Dave.
thanks for all the tips, and yeah i noticed a few of those issues but didnt care for this because these blades dont have to be perfect, just had to blow trough the rust that ate them away unequally.
and yeah i was expecting to get the dial indicator restored before using the lathe but then this came up. its my highest priorit still though. and after that i am not going to bother with centering anything since i need to take everything apart first anyway. especially the tailstock, chuck, and headstock since they have a lot of junk in them
There are lots of videos on disassembly and cleaning of chucks.
The headstock has plain bearings, common for metal lathes for decades. They often have scores from small particles getting into the bearing since normally no seals. The plain bearings are not designed for thrust loads - parallel to the lathe bed. There is normally some thrust washer on the outside of the spindle with adjustment. When you get to the point of taking the headstock apart, post a video with the components so folks can comment or advise.
Dave.
dont worry itll all be videos for each component.
Abom had his eyes closed all the way through that lol
So did I'
Same here. I cringed through this entire video. So much pain
This channel, Cody's Lab, and Scott Manley are all I need in this world.
Well thats definitly two good channels to be counted amongst.
That indicator is shot. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight that will get you started. Ebay has them too. There is a book/pamphlet called " South Bend, How to run a lathe." You can find them reprinted from Lindsey books on Ebay or at places like Abe's books. It will greatly help you. Stick with it.
As your skills improve that lathe can become an income generating source for you.
yeah, at the very least i could make some nice brass handles and knobs for things already.
If you get a good 3 jaw chuck, so you won’t need to center up things everytime. I rarely use my 4 jaw one.
yeah im keeping my eye out for one. especially at the scrap yard!
Modern problems require modern solutions... I love it :D
The urn sitting on the shelf lmao 1 out of the million you have lol
too true
3 jaw chuck would be nice. maybe the face of the spindle bearing is rough. looks good, it will be a lot of fun.
I'm so excited you got a lathe!!! Turn, turn, turn!!!
Pete Seeger is spinning like a lathe.
Your lathe chuck is ready for pickup at your post office.
wow really? ill go check!
WOW, I've never seen a lathe used in such a way, and it allowed your grass cutting to be improved. The helical blades would have been blunted unless the blades were severely rusted and uneven. But you proved the Lathe and ingenuity prevail.
Smart thinking. Thanks
wow, I'm Impressed. I never would have thought that would work out, Good job! Love the old lathe, you got a great deal. I settled for a clapped out $200 used taiwan one. An old one like yours is 1000-2000 around here, So even I was fairly lucky to get a $200 taiwan one. Lathe On! haha
Hey . That was a really good job you did on that mower . I just picked up one to restore today still on my truck . Matter of fact I left one behind that the reel was very rusty . After seeing what you did I will go back and get it too , as it is the older one . Not as old as yours but maybe mid forties . You took great pains to center the reel on your Lathe . High five on that . enjoyed both videos . Thanks again George . . PS : you even thought someone that has been sharpening for 50m years a new trick . I have been doing machinal work for more than 50 years but I am open to learing new tricks . Maybe I have forgot some Ha Ha Ha
That is a unique way to solve the problem.
The lathe idea isn't as bad as you think. However, instead of a high speed cutter, or even a carbine cutter, why not rig up a spinning grinding wheel to move across the spinning lawn more reel? It would actually sharpen the helical blades way better then any single cutter could. JMHO
well thats noisy and i didnt want to add even more quickly spinning things to this setup lol
Those giant interrupted cuts are brutal on any cutting tool. The file was probably a better idea, but dangerous as hell. Blah blah blah, be careful, blah blah my cousins neighbors great grandmas nieces son lost his hand that way.
lol
@@RinoaL Nothing funny about losing a limb. You are way to smart to be doing that. Get a small grinder at Harbor Freight. It would work well for that. Please stay safe.
Hey! This is about to be my first lathe project as well! I just got a 20 year old motorized reel mower, that's all rusty, I just milled the flat blade piece, now I need to make sure the reel is even.
It truly is a combination of art and science to do work with an old lathe, something I too wish to learn some day. But first, welding! (once I can afford proper good-old-used-tools).
Looks like the file does pretty good for the reel! Hope there isn't any grit in the dial indicator!
Your tail stock needs a "live center" to prevent binding
yeah i agree
The better way to sharpen that blade is by hand, or mount a small rotary grinder to your tool post, and grind the cutting edge in a horizontal motion while the lathe is off. I love your videos and you are very smart but the risk level to your fingers is high with that lathe spinning a mower blade. If something goes wrong you could lose a hand. It's just not worth the risk.
you could discredit everything by saying "if somethin goes wrong". the simple fact is that i was careful and thus no risk of injury.
@@RinoaL Your videos are great and you are careful. I had a lathe mechanically malfunction while I was using it, the part came loose and I almost lost my fingers. They were reattached (my fingers). I care for you and just was sharing my concerns.
yes i take that into account, and i was scared and respectful i think. thats why i tried to keep my hands as far away as possible.
how about you be concerned with your own safety and stop being a busybody?
@@RinoaL a lathe is like a bear in a cage, if you dont get too close it cant hurt you unless it throws stuff out. it looks like you take good care. no loose dangly things like ties, ropes, loops on tools and long sandpaper strips. its like a blender and even with that small motor its not going to stop
You need a centre drill. And a rolling centre with a kone end.
This video gave This Old Tony a heart attack.
well hes old, so you have to be careful with those at his age :P
Having said that I've never even run one so.. he's already ahead of me! Lolol
you clearly have nothing worth saying, so why do you still talk?
What is manufacturing year of Lathe Machine you are working on? I used to sharpen these blades on lathe with a tool post electric grinder attachment in 1978 .
1911, so fairly old
LEARNING TO TURN. TURNING ON A LATHE
Need a live center that dead center will just create friction which causes heat if your doing critical work like say a bearing fit heat is your worst enemy heat will make your part grow and give false readings on your mics always let a part cool before making final cut unless its a non critical part with loose tolerances heat can make your part swell a good 5 thous somtimes more not to mention the less heat the longer your cutting tools will last
Put an old bolt in the chuck and turn a centre point on it. Then put a rolling centre in the tail stock. With a clock on the tool post turn a diamiter on each end of a long bar at the same tool position and mesure the difference. Shift tail stock accordingly.
I just picked up this same lathe but the 1895 version and it’s pretty nice but needs improvements . Good luck with it 😊
oh cool! i hope to bring mine a long way as well. might make a new tool post that could be a bit stiffer.
I know your looking in to refurbishing this lovely old lathe, but one thing you really have to get right are the headstock bearings, as they look to be Babbit bearings, a poured lead based bearing. These can be easily damaged if not well lubricated and have to be set (clamped) around the drive shaft very precisely, normally done with shims. If you can find any sort of manual for the lathe, get it, if it's for nothing else other than this information.
I look forward to seeing you restore the lathe and your approach to doing it.
the binding is from the dead center in the tailstock you have crammed into the shaft if your using a dead center a dab of grease helps but also the center drill cone shape and the tail stock centers are the same. a live center spins its got bearings in it the dead center like the name dead doesnt move mostly used for knurling on manual lathes . and the best way to sharpen the blades if there really beat up and rough is put it the lathe or a vblock stand and use a grinder or sander flap wheel on a grinder with the wheel set so the blade touches the face not the edge and then run it back and forth like you were with the cutting tool and feed in lil bit at a time until the whole things even and shiny and then sharpen the knife in the base assemble then use the lapping compound trick with a hand drill to turn the reel.
yeh i relized that. i was trying to do it quickly
@@RinoaL there nothing machining done quickly, quickly nets you bad results. The extra time to set up a machine correctly makes up for it's self in the long run. Machines are cold and unforgiving, please slow down around machines speed comes with experience.
i did it quickly, only focusing on learning a few things this time, and the results were better than i expected. next time ill try to include a few more improvements and such. but for this, i was trying to just get through with it as fast as i could to not waste time and so i didnt spend days to think everything through. after all, i was just cleaning rust off a reel mower blade. no sense in wasting effort on something that doesnt need it, and then to waste time trying to get things working perfectly while daylight is fading for my main project.
Awesome!
What's with the Iron Man urn?
was trying to machine it, have several hundred of them
I guess you haven’t seen Endgame.
@@5roundsrapid263 LOL, ugh... I missed out on my own inadvertent wit.
ha!
Watch Abom79 on youtube about how to center a piece in a 4 jaw chuck. Also Keith Rucker has some video's about how to center your tail stock
ive watched all of them for years
Once you get a steady rest a hood way to.true up a part if your tailstock is true would be to take a centerdrill and touch off on the face of your part and it will create a circle adjust your steady rest until centerdrill is hitting dead center and that gets you almost perfectly centered up everytime the smaller the centerdrill the better
A steady rest wouldn’t do you any good. You should get yourself a live centre and a dial indicator to actually check your concentricity. A lathe should be able to take an axial load. Likely it was improperly re assembled
a steady rest wont hold the metal steady to allow for drilling the end? thats a shame.
Rinoa Super-Genius if your objective is to make sure you drill in the centre than yes a steady rest would help. Although if you found a smaller sized centre drill that would probably be favourable and cheaper. They are designed to be rigid enough to make very centralized holes (because of their cutting geometry and short length).
Hibbie jibbies overflow ;)
That blade spinning in the lathe looks like the most sketchy/dangerous thing I ever see in a lathe.
Note: I have 0 real experience with lathes, just AVE, This Old Tony, ...maybe it is just fine, but the hibbie jibbies shooting through my spine... XD
As a machinist, that is very dangerous. It can remove your fingers in a half a second. Be VERY careful and have 911 on speed dial.
@@Mekhanic1 more than that. If there was enough torque in that thing itd pull you in too. That hair... Fuck me its dangerous
what hair?
@@RinoaL arm pulls you in, hair gets wrapped.
Those old journal bearings can be tweaked a bit and should have a bronze thrust washer/bearing. If it’s been “restored”, someone may have left out the bearing or installed it incorrectly.
I'm all for learning new stuff, for love your hand and limbs, please pick something other than a lawn mover blade to start with. I'm glad it works better. Tho good job.
This ole Tony, has mastered the technique of cutting metal with kungfu chops, check him out if ya haven't, remember SAFETY SQUINTS, MOTHER ON SPEED DIAL, THE STATE IF CALIFONIA CAUSES CANCER.
you are mixing your channels, and quoting my friend AvE in in an unfunny way. lol
I like how the belt is just wire on lol......Yep i remember my first Lathe i was 17 when i bought it 20 years ago
Or just use a taper sleeve that the end of the shaft can fit inside
Well done! (a) Aligning a 4-jaw chuck without an indicator? Level 374 moxie right there! :D (b)you showed a huge centre drill, maybe a #5 or something. You could probably find some smaller, say #2 or #3 centre drills, online cheap, and those would fit nicely in your tailstock chuck. (c) When drilling, cutting oil is definitely a good idea; otherwise your drills will last about three seconds. (d) Your technique with the file, holding it in the left hand and guiding with your right, was perfect. WTG Rinoa, from a real-life lathe operator!
well thank you! Next up, i think i'll take a look at that sticky dial indicator. or i might do a joke video trying to machine with Calcium Carbide. haha
Those small drill bits are centre drills
i know, thats why i wished i could use them.
Take a piece of stock make light cuts on it and measure each end adjust your tailstock until you get the same o.d. end to end and your tailstock will be on center
Get yourself a cheap dti with magnetic stand off ebay to help get everything spinning dead centre. Nice to see you having play with the lathe
i have one, just need to fix it
If you mount the blade again and make jig and use a belt sander with fine paper and get a 22 degree angle on the cutting side would be perfect but no more of the other too dangerous
i dont own a belt sander. this method worked fine. ill use it again to fix my other reel mowers irregular blades.
@@RinoaL I'm talking about putting a edge on it the cutter part
It sounds kinda off! Definitely rebuild time and maybe find some books on that model, but to me it just sounds a bit off . But still a great find.
yeah im going to open it all up and get a good look. i bet theres several things going on with this.
Is that the thing you have to throw babies into, if you get a job at Facebook?
What is the size and thread of your spindle? I'll send you a 3-jaw chuck.
idk but when i take it off to clean the chuck up ill check
Okay. @@RinoaL
The chuck is 1 7/16 × 12
you can trust Thermionic Man since he's the guy that got me the lathe. so yeah. 1 7/16 × 12.
Of all the odd sizes and threadings! Well I don't have that. Does this chuck have a backplate or is it directly threaded into the chuck body? @@RinoaL
Check out mrpete222 channel for really good instructions on how to run a lathe and other machine shop equipment. He is a great teacher!
There are vids on you tube on how to repair and set up a lathe you should check em out also a good micrometer and dial indicator are your best friends with this tool , does look like it has massive wear and a lot of loose movement start with making sure it`s put together right so you don`t break something or hurt yourself
been watching them for years. but you cant learn everything from youtube.
@@RinoaL True but it is a good place to start , it`s one thing to just watch when you don`t own it and another when you need to know how to set up or repair
well in the course of making a single video i take many breaks at every challenge and watch several videos while i cool off.
@@RinoaL Fair enough , I wasn`t trying to aggravate you just trying to help
I have several dvd on woodworking but till I actually started doing it I didn`t really learn woodworking
3 jaw chuck is your friend for round stock, 4 jaw for square stock
whatever chuck i happen to have is my friend
@@RinoaL I would keep your eye open for a second hand 3 jaw. A tip for the 4 jaw is after you have it set mark 2 of the key slots and only undo those 2 to take the stock out, that way when you put it back in its still on center
yeah ive been looking for any chuck for years and they are hard to find. if i see one at the scrap yar though i will be sure to snag it
@@RinoaL lathes are great fun, looking forward to seeing more projects
I appreciate the work you did, but I'm very concerned about your lack of knowledge at this time, especially for such a job as the lawn mower reel. Using the file as you did on such an item in the lathe is potentially dangerous.
The hole used to support the tailstock centre is 118° (drill angle) the centre is 60°. Normally a dead centre (one that does not rotate with the workpiece) should be lubricated. The centre drill design allows oil to sit within the smaller diameter, providing lubrication to the dead centre. (I understand you were unable to use a centre drill).
I am pleasantly surprised you managed as well as you did. 🙂
PLEASE find a local machinist to give you some advice on using the lathe.
Best wishes for your next project(s)
Dude - you need to do some indepth reading on operating a lathe before you go any further!
i have, and watched hundreds of hours of videos on youtube.
@@RinoaL i cant tell a know.it all gets nowhere no matter how long you do machine work you will always learn somthing new there is to much to it to even learn in a lifetime
Today's lesson their are many ways to skin a cat. Just choose the one that suits you.
It is more common to draw file the blades while they are still in the mower. A home made fixture is required. A lot safer thsn your method. There are a lot of beginner videos on youtube. Yes Headstock.
I think that was way more dangerous than you think. Work on smaller stuff without interruptions in it for a while. Watch things get thrown across your shop. Then tackle stuff like this.
or do whatever job needs done. we dont always have the option to pick and choose what we want to do when.
Good attempt, considering the lack of tools and indicators etc. Interrupted cuts like that are probably too advanced for your first steps, but well done for trying :-) Obviously safety is important, the machine itself with that belt isn't too powerful but once you start spinning large work pieces like that blade assembly remember to account for the amount of energy it contains once its spinning, enough to do serious damage and is a serious entanglement risk with hands, clothes and hair. Nice start though perhaps try and do some basic turning of small stock, it will be interesting to see how you progress. Good luck :-)
im actually planning to move to brass. cast a few ingots and turn them down. perhaps try to make a tiny telescope.
@@RinoaL Great idea
You need to keep lath cleaner too many chips all over the rail
ive only had it for a week, havent had a chance to clean it yet
i CANT WATCH IT ANY MORE. tHE END OF THE REEL IS OFF CENTRE.
I aplaud you for trying and succeeded without seriously injury but that tiny indent in the end of the mower cylinder was nowhere near deep enough, you would also have been safer with a "live" centre which spins with the workpiece.
Believe me! If the cutting tool had taken just a bit too much of a bite your work would have become airbourne and don't even think about what could have happened! Also a mower cylinder would have been ground not cut. But I'm glad you survived, just be very careful and have a think about the consiquences of things going pear shaped as I've seen far too many industrial accidents in my time, some life changing.
i did evaluate the safety dont worry
He didn't sharpen anything. .lol if anything he changed the geometry lol. But I still love this kids attitude!
What are you doing ! You can’t sharpen a cylinder blade concentric to the turn of a lathe. Each blade has back rake. Ie it needs to be ground on a different helical plane to the blade as a hole otherwise it will rub on the bottom blade.
all sharpening methods i have seen, and original specifications, recommend a 90 degree cylindrical sharpening like this.
Is that one of your many urns on the shelf ? ☺️
yeah they are brass.
I have a box of Tooling if you want it
oh definitly! ill take anything!
12:06 lathe spinning the wrong way? shouldnt it be spinning towards to topside of the cutting tool?
funny how your eyes can see the wrong rotation sometimes isnt it?
@@RinoaL Try playing it at 0.25x speed
if you slow it down its even more obvious its just tricking your eyes. if you really cant wrap your head around it, look at the set screw coming out of the center shaft that holds the blade brackets on.
Pretty sure it's going the wrong way.
@@RinoaL good point about the set screw, now I'm even more confused :/
Yes, it does look like the mower blade is spinning backward. That is an effect of the camera shutter speed or frame rate,... nothing new here, move along,...
What's wrong with sharpening the blades of a reel mower the conventional way. Is that way too simple for you? :)
this mower had sat so long that some blades rusted deeper than others. it would take days and days of sharpening to really get them all flat the normal way. now they are all mostly even and i can do it a few times the normal way and they will be good.
this old tony, mr pete 222, ox tool, and many more have great videos on basic machining. Have fun, a lathe is a great tool.
Check out some of abom vids 👍
been watching him for years, dont worry.
mrpete222
Trying to workout if this is a spoof video. Massive admiration for your "have a go" attitude, but there's so much wrong with this project. For gods keep your hands well away from a revolving blade until it comes to a dead stop. Having your fingers that near made me cringe. With such a large overhang your dead lucky that blade didn't whip out the chuck whilst drilling like that. Suggest you mark up the end and put it under a pillar drill and use a centre drill. You really need a live center in that tail stock. The feed and speed is too fast for an interrupted cut, especially on toughened steel. A file is only meant to cut in one direction, so running backwards will trash the file. Maybe work on hooking up grinder to the tool post, this will produce a better result.
I love this! ❤️ Please marry me! 😂
First it's called turning on a lathe/machining, Second get a copy of the machinery handbook.
why, what did i say?
It's called Machinery's Handbook (it was the handbook from Machinery Magazine). Rinoa's doing great.
Ya know, im sure i have that handbook someplace. so im not going to bother buying one unless i see one at a flea market or i get my library out of storage and categorized.
@@RinoaL I have an electronic copy I can send you (for educational purposes only ;-) ), drop me an email :-)
Słabe filmy
Just watch Abom79 I'm sure he could give some advice and tricks and tips.
Trying to workout if this is a spoof video. Massive admiration for your "have a go" attitude, but there's so much wrong with this project. For gods keep your hands well away from a revolving blade until it comes to a dead stop. Having your fingers that near made me cringe. With such a large overhang your dead lucky that blade didn't whip out the chuck whilst drilling like that. Suggest you mark up the end and put it under a pillar drill and use a centre drill. You really need a live center in that tail stock. The feed and speed is too fast for an interrupted cut, especially on toughened steel. A file is only meant to cut in one direction, so running backwards will trash the file. Maybe work on hooking up grinder to the tool post, this will produce a better result.
but it worked well, im trying to work out if this is a spoof comment
Everything you’ve said is correct except for the file. Modern files are cut to file in both directions.
@@SuperDouginator Using a hand file on an interupted cut this big is a big NO NO!