This and the previous video were well made. I may never have the pleasure of working with metal, but I learned quite a bit of material transformation. Thank you - Annie
If you want to have a go without the investment of a workshop I'd recommend looking into night classes. You might find that after you've gotten to grips with the machines, they'll let you go off on your own projects and provide help if you need it
I like to use a dead center between the part and the tail stock (with live center). Then you can just dial in on the dead center. Much easier than doing 4 sides of a square.
I think the rounded T post section of the T-nut might actually be a little more useful on that particular table, seeing how the groove terminates in a rounded shape. Sometimes you need that "just a little bit more" toward the center that you would loose with the squared post.
A very ingenous way to make a T-nut. Good illustration of why the 4-jaw is so powerful. I was surprised that the insert stood up to that interrupted cut, AKA shock loading. My score on that is 5 edges broken so far. Brazed carbide is much more resistant, for reasons I do not understand.
These Seco 32.51 inserts have been holding up well to the abuse. Only time I've broken one is when I've pushed my lathe beyond its capabilities and stalled it.
You have a much bigger lathe than I do so you will have bigger insterts and fewer fractures. Still, as doubleboost would say, interrupted cuts are twastards.
I'm upset I didn't think of this when I needed T nuts. I bought some from Shars and shortened the height the same way you did. When I was done I staked the holes on the bottom because a bolt or a stud could go through the nut and push into the table. When a bolt or stud bottoms into the bottom of the slot you will lift the nut and break the T slot in the table.
If you round off the larger part of the t-nut too, you'll be able to slide it further down the slot in the rotary table. Maybe best to only round off one side to save as much contact surface as possible.
This is the second video you've posted on this subject, isn't that right? I couldv'e sworn I'd used one of your videos as the basis for machining my toolpost t-nut. Is there a particular reason you took the effort to re-center the nut after flipping it? I'd have thought the only important thing about that cut was parallelism to the top face, anything else being merely aesthetic
I didn't have a video of machining a nut. I've explained it before, but I don't think I've ever showed it. You don't have to get it on exactly center. If you watch you can see I have some run-out because it moved when I was tightening the jaws down tight. You just need it in the ball park so that your interrupted cut isn't heave on one side and it's relatively even.
I'm want to taking ur opinion about buying a mini lathe and mini milling . What is the best type can be purchased by virtue of experience. Plz Help....thx👍
A much quicker way is to thread the T-nut in advance. Mount in the 3-Jaw a bolt of the same thread and screw the nut onto it and then just turn to diameter! This wiil save you 20 minutes on indicating in the 4-jaw every time you make one nut. See Video..:)
The way you indicate assumes the hole is perfectly centered on the bloc. I think you said it was not. Why not use a gage pin in the hole and indicate on the pin?
7 years on, several of these now on UA-cam, and this is very well done! Thanks for the lessons!
This and the previous video were well made. I may never have the pleasure of working with metal, but I learned quite a bit of material transformation. Thank you - Annie
If you want to have a go without the investment of a workshop I'd recommend looking into night classes. You might find that after you've gotten to grips with the machines, they'll let you go off on your own projects and provide help if you need it
I like to use a dead center between the part and the tail stock (with live center). Then you can just dial in on the dead center. Much easier than doing 4 sides of a square.
I can't believe I've never thought of making one this way. It's so simple.
I think the rounded T post section of the T-nut might actually be a little more useful on that particular table, seeing how the groove terminates in a rounded shape. Sometimes you need that "just a little bit more" toward the center that you would loose with the squared post.
well why didnt i think of that! well done Greg. what a great idea.
Awesome! I was given a hold down kit that is inches my mill tee slots are metric. Thanks for sharing.
A very ingenous way to make a T-nut. Good illustration of why the 4-jaw is so powerful. I was surprised that the insert stood up to that interrupted cut, AKA shock loading. My score on that is 5 edges broken so far. Brazed carbide is much more resistant, for reasons I do not understand.
ة ت معه إى ا لأسهم حيل
These Seco 32.51 inserts have been holding up well to the abuse. Only time I've broken one is when I've pushed my lathe beyond its capabilities and stalled it.
You have a much bigger lathe than I do so you will have bigger insterts and fewer fractures. Still, as doubleboost would say, interrupted cuts are twastards.
I'm upset I didn't think of this when I needed T nuts. I bought some from Shars and shortened the height the same way you did. When I was done I staked the holes on the bottom because a bolt or a stud could go through the nut and push into the table. When a bolt or stud bottoms into the bottom of the slot you will lift the nut and break the T slot in the table.
Thank you for sharing, I found this very helpful and great to know, now off to the shed.
Thanks for sharing.
Actually this is possible on 3jaw chuch as well, with a fixture of with later squaring after "T" is finished
the first few minutes there made me happy I have a cheap 3 jaw lol.. (-'
very nice work as usual!
I wonder if you might consider a Sine Bar project video (no surface grinder)?
Very good idea. alot faster for sure and functional.
Great idea,first time I've seen it
a new project for me to try, thank you
Good idea Greg.
If you round off the larger part of the t-nut too, you'll be able to slide it further down the slot in the rotary table. Maybe best to only round off one side to save as much contact surface as possible.
The base is squared off to keep the nut from just spinning. 😆
This is the second video you've posted on this subject, isn't that right? I couldv'e sworn I'd used one of your videos as the basis for machining my toolpost t-nut. Is there a particular reason you took the effort to re-center the nut after flipping it? I'd have thought the only important thing about that cut was parallelism to the top face, anything else being merely aesthetic
I didn't have a video of machining a nut. I've explained it before, but I don't think I've ever showed it. You don't have to get it on exactly center. If you watch you can see I have some run-out because it moved when I was tightening the jaws down tight. You just need it in the ball park so that your interrupted cut isn't heave on one side and it's relatively even.
I'm want to taking ur opinion about buying a mini lathe and mini milling . What is the best type can be purchased by virtue of experience. Plz Help....thx👍
Very clever thinking. I really like creative thinking. Thanks for sharing your talent.
great tip nice work. bob
Do you think using a collet and drawbar with a milling attachment on the lathe would be an acceptable use for making a T-nut as well?
Yes, but it's really hard to get them to be even. It's hard for precise cutting measurements.
nice job
Thank you!
A much quicker way is to thread the T-nut in advance. Mount in the 3-Jaw a bolt of the same thread and screw the nut onto it and then just turn to diameter! This wiil save you 20 minutes on indicating in the 4-jaw every time you make one nut. See Video..:)
Indicating doesn't take much time. I personally don't like holding things on bolts if I don't have to.
The way you indicate assumes the hole is perfectly centered on the bloc. I think you said it was not.
Why not use a gage pin in the hole and indicate on the pin?
Plenty of ways to skin a cat. The hole was dead center because I put it there in the mill.
well done. Thanks.
good video , thanks
muy bueno amigo
HANDS FULL OF THUMBS
Wat een hoop werk voor een onnozele T - bout