Dear Patrick Donohue. During Covid, I was so excited to begin faceting. I've been lazy, since then, but seeing Your new video makes me excited to begin, I guess. Though, I have to do the front brakes on my Geo Metro and my gutters, too. I'll keep watching Your videos. Graham WA Donna Chassie
That was so cool! To have an idea and be able to translate it to someone that can 3D print it for you, and actually be able to try it out in person! I understand not everyone has that opportunity! But wow! That was so cool! I worked in construction for many years and we would frequently have to make i jig for cutting thing other than just wood. A tile on a tile saw if you have several tiles that say need to be cut at an angle to meet up in a corner. It's easier if you had a jig, all the tiles would be cut perfectly at the same angle. But a big for faceting? That is a really good idea. Not every one needs it but the vast majority will! Cool idea.
Alway nice to try to try new ideas and try to save materials. I wonder if he could add limit the depth of the hole if you use standard length (same length) dop sticks to act as a depth stop. Then as you rotate the dop, you just make sure it is bottomed out in the hole and tighten your set screw?
That's a good point. The through-hole was a remnant of my original idea to tighten the dop from the back using the screw nut, but that's not necessary any longer.
What about having the block be taller, and you angle the stone down and rather than 3D printed, it's made from a little block of aluminum. You could also add a little stop so every time you loosen it to rotate it some in slides to the same point over and over. I have some ideas to try in the future because of this. Thank you.
It would be important to look for and measure the sub-surface damage to compare sawing and grinding. Also why not simply mount a 4-6 inch saw blade on your faceting machine, with a spacer ring?
You mean having a taller block and then having the dop itself point downward at a 45 degree angle? It's a good point, that would eliminate the interference problem, but at a trade-off of requiring a lot more 3D filament. Maybe if someone thought it was worth a shot they could try it! I was hoping people would comment with alternate/better ways of doing this, so thanks!
@@DonohueLabs Filament is pretty cheap, I do a lot of printing myself, I could draw something up and try it but I'm just getting started with faceting and don't have any rough where I'd need to do this yet, could try it with garden rocks as a test XD
I enjoyed this on a number of different levels Dr.Patrick, so thanks for sharing it with all of us.
Dear Patrick Donohue. During Covid, I was so excited to begin faceting. I've been lazy, since then, but seeing Your new video makes me excited to begin, I guess. Though, I have to do the front brakes on my Geo Metro and my gutters, too. I'll keep watching Your videos. Graham WA Donna Chassie
That was so cool! To have an idea and be able to translate it to someone that can 3D print it for you, and actually be able to try it out in person! I understand not everyone has that opportunity! But wow! That was so cool!
I worked in construction for many years and we would frequently have to make i jig for cutting thing other than just wood. A tile on a tile saw if you have several tiles that say need to be cut at an angle to meet up in a corner. It's easier if you had a jig, all the tiles would be cut perfectly at the same angle. But a big for faceting? That is a really good idea. Not every one needs it but the vast majority will! Cool idea.
🤔🤔🤔Very interesting idea 🤔🤔🤔Thanks for sharing 🙏🙏🙏
Yes, an index head!
Alway nice to try to try new ideas and try to save materials. I wonder if he could add limit the depth of the hole if you use standard length (same length) dop sticks to act as a depth stop. Then as you rotate the dop, you just make sure it is bottomed out in the hole and tighten your set screw?
That's a good point. The through-hole was a remnant of my original idea to tighten the dop from the back using the screw nut, but that's not necessary any longer.
What about having the block be taller, and you angle the stone down and rather than 3D printed, it's made from a little block of aluminum.
You could also add a little stop so every time you loosen it to rotate it some in slides to the same point over and over.
I have some ideas to try in the future because of this. Thank you.
It would be important to look for and measure the sub-surface damage to compare sawing and grinding. Also why not simply mount a 4-6 inch saw blade on your faceting machine, with a spacer ring?
Have you thought about having the dop angle downwards at a 45, would resolve your issue of interfereing with your vice
You mean having a taller block and then having the dop itself point downward at a 45 degree angle? It's a good point, that would eliminate the interference problem, but at a trade-off of requiring a lot more 3D filament. Maybe if someone thought it was worth a shot they could try it! I was hoping people would comment with alternate/better ways of doing this, so thanks!
@@DonohueLabs Filament is pretty cheap, I do a lot of printing myself, I could draw something up and try it but I'm just getting started with faceting and don't have any rough where I'd need to do this yet, could try it with garden rocks as a test XD
@@mr.treefrog5789 That's true, I forgot to mention in the video that these test blocks used less than two dollar's worth of filament.