Thank you for your friendly explanation. I bought the KK board for the first time last week. I made a tri-copter with a KK board. I did not know how to set it up a lot. Finally, the gas you made and the gas you made were similar, so I applied your PID value as it is. Today's flight was surprisingly stable. I really like it. Thank you once again for your teaching.
Just a quick tip for those who may be experiencing the spinning problem with tricopters (like me !). On the flitetest forum I found the tip “..it may be necessary to set the rudder to -100 in the mixing editor”. That worked for me. It may however also be necessary to reverse the orientation of the rudder in your transmitter as well to eradicate this problem.
Yep been fighting this problem for the last few days . I made a tricopter 8 years ago, out of wood . And here I am with the same board doing it again and today was the day I figured this out going thru the menu . Just have to get the wobble out of auto level and that's down to too much vibration . Gummies already shipped. I have a programmer but the KK board flash tool won't recognize the USBASB.
@@joshsimmons8178 I built a V-tail quadcopter out of wood using the KK2 board, and it flies really well, except for it wobbling when it comes out of a turn. If you know the cause, I would be grateful to hear about it ! 👍
I finally sat down and followed this video, the end was awesome for helping tune my copter! I haven't flown any medium to large multirotors in manual mode, no stability. Now my tricopter flies nicely in manual mode and thanks to David's help with the KK2 board. I am in love with flying these things again!
Thank you David for producing this video. I've been FPV flying a scratch built tri of your design for a couple of years now and mainly just fly in stabilize mode simply because I'd never really gotten it dialed in adequately under acro mode. I will revisit my KK2 settings again now with the help of your tutorial. Thanks again!
My tricopter is on the bench- getting ready to begin assembly. Hope to get it done before the snow so I can get some killer video on those cold and calm days when the air is thin and the sky is clear.
David once again you came through for us avid watches of your bids, the kk2 board has had me head scratch ing for a while now cos I'm new to the hobby. Hopefully I will now be able to connect it all together, so many thanks..
I have a much older version but was still able to get in the air on the first attempt thanks to your instructions around channel testing. I have spectrum and 2 channels were reversed and subtrim dial in was great. Now i just have to figure out my version of the gyro calibration and it should be great. Been sitting for 6 years, bought at swap meet and never knew exactly how to get it going. Big thanks, subbed.
Thanks David, I had a problem with the tail of my tricopter, it wasn't stopping on a dime. Now I lowered the servo filter to 30 and its much better. I have a digital servo. Thanks cheers.
Hi David, I love DIY tricopter because of all your work in Tricopter fields, even in the TV show that is Great! For this tutoral I realize that tow things missing in this video when I followed your steps. 1, didn't mention that " setting the throttle limit on the ESCs after receiver test done " 2, also forget to remain that "turn off self level " when tuning PI gain outdoor! I hope this can help people in future~ Thx again, David!
I reflashed my board with the most up to date KK2.1 V1.9 Updated Firmware. It fly's great! thanks for all of your advice. I know this sounds crazy but in manual/ acro mode I lifted it right up with your third recommendation setting (toward the end of the video) and was surprised. Also if you can't get your board to flash and your running windows 8 google how to change your advanced setting in your computer/ laptop and it will allow it to flash with the right driver and firmware/ flashtool. Pickup the new 1.9 it's awesome.
Thanks for this video! My tricopter has never flown as well as it does with your suggested settings! I was going to by a different flight controller because the throttle control was such a pain in the ass to keep the tricopter at one altitude, but your settings fixed the problem.
Beautiful resource! I just built my own variation of your v.1 tricopter (over on the flitetest channel). It had it's maiden flight yesterday and flew phenomenally! :D This video is golden at explaining the different functions of the board. Thanks! I'll have it flying perfectly in no time.
Very nice David. I might even have a go,at it seems pretty straight forward when you're doing it. At least this way we can use you as a reference. Thank you. It was also great to see you in England earlier this year. Suffolk is truly a magical place, especially when I am in it. Have fun
Thanks very much for doing this video David. I've done a lot of reading and watching videos to get a KK2.1 setup and you've very thoroughly summed up days of reading in one video.
David, as usual, great stuff. Just some notes for builders out there. kk2 mini when in ppm mode - remember that ppm signal must go on the Aile channel. that is the 4th from the bottom of kk2 mini. the mini does not have the 3 sets of pins for receiver input and it is easy to get caught up in just 1 x 3wire cable. also, David touched on it. there are 2 power rails for the motor/esc output side. m1 for kk2 board power. m2 + for servo and other power. I have found some servo's do not like the kk2 mini board. hk939mg for example. No setting will stop it jittering but a naze or cc3d does not have the issue. You can also set the self level drift to ensure it remains stationery(if you prefer self level mode). Painless does a good explanation of this. I found the ..19... steveis firmware a problem, dropped back to ...18 pro,,, and all is great. you also get same models as davids video. Apparently there is a version of the firmware with the equivalent of Naze's Horizon mode. From the few boards I have tried, the kk2 is for me the most stable and predictable board in the air. anyways that's my 2c.
Great video David, I can't remember seeing a better KK2 Programming video. The only thing that was left out that I would have included was ESC calibration.
thanks David some much better than what I've seen on the web so far. everyone seems to be into quads but I still like my tricopter cheers mate from Australia
Thank you, David, it's good to hear your voice again, FT is not the same since you left. I watched this although I am not yet into copters (fixed wings here ;-). May sound weird, but I really like the way you are explaining things...
Greetings from Canada! Thanks for the video David, I find your explanations easier to understand than others and very entertaining. Keep your enthusiasm, it is highly contagious and will spread the hobby like wildfire.
Thank you very much! This video was very helpful for me setting up my first tricopter. Once I flashed my KK2 board to the latest KK2V1_1V19S1Pro firmware, I was able to select the settings that you show in the video. Flew great right off, I will tweak it as necessary. THANKS AGAIN!
Thanks David, you answered a lot of questions I had about the mini board. From looking at the regular board to the mini board I thought I messed up on the right flight control board. Also being a newbie I place all my trust in your experience as a RC pilot. Your videos are informative (flite test and your chanel RC Explorers). Thanks and keep us informed on your projects. Oh yeah I might have questions for you if I can't figure them out.
Awesome video, not sure what I missed the first time setting everything up but after resetting up everything following the video we have success again....one side note tho, Im using a futaba analog servo and still need to set the yaw to -100 (I believe Ive read and seen everywhere that digital=-100 and analog=100) if I leave it in the positive range it just spins out. Everythings on the up and up now tho. Thanks again for the superb video and walk thru on building a Tricopter
Thank you David! You are the main reason I built a tricopter and got into FPV and it is awesome. Greetings from Poland! P.S.: You should make more videos :)
Wonderful Setup Video. Extremely thorough. Thank You so much for posting this video. This will be so helpful when I finish building my 2.6 which I am currently getting back to now that its cold outside and I have time to. Thank You for taking time from your busy schedule to make a great tool to get the Tricopter in the air with confidence.
Brilliant info and very well communicated. I have watched plenty of videos on PID tuning but this is two thumbs up!👍 👍 Thankyou. I am just building my first Tri-copter with a KK2 I'll follow it to the letter😊
Thank you for your incredibly clear explanation of the KK2 board. Now I can feel good about purchasing one. FliteTest hasn't been the same without you. Thank you.
I was going to say the same thing... you beat me to it. I have built tricopters with the naze before- but they were not designed for the finesse that this rig is- so I want David's opinions and counsel based on his experiences, as well as others before getting to tuning. My experience has shown that the yaw PID and settings on the naze need to be tamed down dramatically. Stock PID's will be close for this size craft, but that yaw has me worried. Most Naze boards like to wobble the servo on default settings and need to be dropped on the derivative by almost half.
great vid. Im using this tutorial for my zmr 250 build. you have all the good info in a great clean video. great lighting great audio great camera angles.
thank you for an easy to understand P I gains I've got a KK board on a 450 quad but its always jittering around hopefully dial it in a little smoother now!
I know you're very busy Sir, but since so many love your videos, why don't you start a weekly relase on your channel? You've got amazing videos, imagine how good you could do!
i have to agree i know i would watch every video David released. He is very good at explaining things and its very apparent he has a deep love and appreciation for what he's doing. Make more videos David
Maybe it depends somehow on the amount of time and thought that are required to produce such nice and well scripted videos? I personally prefer this format to frequent dumb rambling. I's called more signal and less noise. Why don't you personally produce great breathtaking amazing things every tuesday and friday? Please point me to them if you suddenly do...
I've watched all his Vids, Old and New, some I've watched 2 or three times, Loved the one of his Space Plane, Awesome Footage there, and presently working on his Tri-Copter Build, I can hardly wait till it's ready to fly, so much Great Knowledge, thx David.. :D
pugs2300 I enjoy Davids videos as much as anyone, I share and support his love and devotion to the hobby. My only problem is greedy people bitching around and asking for more. Yes, you did that politely and respectfully, great! But that does not change the meaning of the sentence. Why don't you try not to behave like a little doggy asking for more treats. Maybe you have a full bodied question, reaching into the core of some popular issue or a ready scenario for David to make an episode, that would be constructive and thus very welcome. But "polite bla-bla give us more and more frequently!" Is a bit undignified, and demotivating, don't you think?
Ok David. For a month i have been flying my scratchbuilt 585mm tricopter on a trusty KK2 board with lots of success... The tail however had a bit more wobble than is should have. I watched almost every tricopter setup and build you have done and decided to switch to Naze32 to get the Tail Tune function ti hopefully smooth out that wobble. Removed the KK and wired and programmed the Naze32 with Triflight. First off. It wont fly... Wont get off the ground with out the spin of death and the Tail servos (same ones that worked fine with the KK2) keep getting so hot that they burn out and one has even magic smoked... Not even in flight either. Just during the tail tune and leveling... The servos are not too tight, the servo isnt binding, they are fresh out of the box brand new emax 9g metal servos. I would like to stay with the superior Triflight programming but cant afford to keep burning servos and not flying... What am i doing wrong? What could the Naze be doing wrong since if i put the KK back on the tricopter it lifts off and controls fine and the servos stays ice cold... Also one other note. Even after tail tune when i go to arm, the Tail mech tips to the right. And wont control left past the center point. It stays completely right, in normal operation and with a servo tester the servo is centered and has fluid motion both ways. Help Me Please as I am attending one of my first Fly events in a week and would like it flying well!
I was struggling with inversing the yaw, i made it and it worked great ! So great that i even lost the tricopter, OMG that things is so much better that a quadcopter, i m looking for an other kk board !
this was a really interesting video. One which goes through each setting and says what it does in real terms. It solved one problem on my quad straight off! Thanks, you've helped me - well worth watching.
At the 2 minute mark you are using 2 servo leads as intended and let 3 signal channels run through one servo lead. You have maximized the space between the ground wires. While that will probably work ok in most of cases I would add that having the ground/positive wires spaced out is also an invitation for disturbances into the gnd/positive. You are creating an as large as possible ground loop. So, I would recommend having the two "fully wired" servo leads next to each other and then the 3:rd wire used for rest of signals. I would in any of the cases keep the power/signal wires bundled together as tight as possible to eliminate surface area for EMI* to enter. Keep signal cables clear of power/motor leads. With the current levels and frequent shifting of voltages to motors there is plenty of high strength EMI to go around. *=Electro Magnetic Interference
What you say does not make any sense to me, all the ground and positive pins are connected into rails at both receiver and KK. I cannot imagine any ground loop there. It may look like one on physical layer, but not in schematic representation.
NGC1433 It's really difficult to explain without pictures. I hope I'll be able to put something together to explain, but I can't guarantee. Yes, the positive and negative are close together, not much of an exposed area for radiated EMI to insert itself to create voltage disturbance on +6V or other BEC level. However, the gnd (and 6V) is probably shorted out in both ends, with the complete servo leads create a hoop for gnd and a BEC hoop. The further the servo leads are spread, the bigger the area, it basically acts like a 1 turn transformer winding, ready to receive any input. Depending on field strength you will create a local differential shift of gnd/bec levels which might affect servo signal performance. Since one servo lead might be closer to EMI source, it could have a different gnd level compared to other servo lead.
Good video David. I'll be setting up a simplecopter with this video this weekend. Wanting to try fpv on tri and see if I like it better than with quad as I totally love the look of your mini-tri kit and will order if I decided I like the feel of the tri-copter better than the quad for fpv.
Great video David! Long anticipated and am looking forward to putting the KK2 Mini board on the frame :-) If you don't fly with ESCs with build-in BECs, remember that the M2-M8 rail also needs its separate power supply? (If for instance flying with Afro Slim 20A ESCs. Also take to account the Amps the servo draws when configuring your system (Afro 20A/30A ESCs only supply 500 mA on the BEC)
I am using the Afro 30 with my build. Would you suggest a BEC then? I was going to run it as is since there was no mention of needing a BEC. Please correct me if I'm wrong to do that.
jodati If you are running 3 Afro 30A with BEC, two of them would be connected to M2+M3 providing a total of 1A to the servo which should be enough. Using two linear BECs on the same system should not be a problem, just don't use more than one switching BEC on a system (you can't combine switching BECs).
I have some tech questions and need assistance in regards to where the Rudder output (yaw) needs to go...I have an open rudder port on my copter and I am using the KK2.1 HC flight controller. I have everything set up on the FC as far as I know via your video. Some of the options you have on the KK2.0 is not available on the KK2.1 HC..I think they streamlined programming for this version, like the bubble, it is NOT within this firmware out of the box. I have the Dragon Fly setup from Flite Test with the Tough Tilt yaw servo. This servo is connected to my Spektrum AR9020's RUDDER port and I have all ESC's including the Tough Tilts mounted flight motor ESC running to the corresponding M-ports on the KK2.1HC FC, and all are in order and plugged in according to the FC setup for Tricopter in the firmware that is displayed on the LCD with help from your walk through on this video. Things I have tried for trouble shooting so far really are limited next to actual connection issues, but everything is where it needs to be and I get all the standby tones when the board is in menu mode etc; so far I have bound using both 11ms and 22ms, as well as DSM2 and DSMX (I'm a Spektrum/Horizon user) with no motor response from the copter once I have all parameters put into the FC and loaded. I do get a message on the board and it displays Warning or something along the lines of "No Yaw Input detected"...and that makes sense, since there is not input plugged in on the FC for the RUDDER channel...I only have an ESC to plug into M4 port on the FC (my set up and where the esc is recognized) and then I have the Tough Tilt servo plugged into my Spektrum RX for its communication and actuation. My limited experience is still telling me that I know we need to put something into the RUDDER port of the FC to have it recognized by it, but as I said I only have an ESC to plug into one side of the FC and then the Tough Tilt servo to plug into the RX, so where does the RUDDER port on the FC get connected to? My next attempt was to use an non-amplified Y harness (Cant amplify with Spektrum RX's-for reasons they give but I don't go too much in depth beyond that they say don't) to run a servo connector from the FC RUDDER channel to one end of the Y and then run the other servo connector from the RX to the remaining port of the Y connector; issue here though my limited experience is telling me, is that I'll have servo signal going into one side of the Y, and then have the board output for RUDDER going into the other...which would simply just satisfy the issue of the FC not having anything connected to the the RUDDER port and RUDDER port on the the RX at the same time...I look at it and it only solves the issue of having a port that is not plugged into a anything...the two may be split but one is for out signal from the FC that will Y into the Tough Tilt servo; one is ESC/FC related and the other is a stand alone simple actuating servo....this is where I am stumped. I need some help with how this Dragon Fly is supposed to be set up in my configuration...They Tough Tilt is throwing the wrench a little here..but it could be another factor possibly...See below. Now, I did have to run a Castle Creations (CC BEC 10amp 4.9-9v) from one of my ESC's since my 30A Spider ESC's DO NOT HAVE BEC's. I spliced the CCBEC into my M1 port on my KK2.1 for proper 5v signal (The kk2.1 requires signal to go to M1 port, and it was taken by M1 ESC, so I had to tap the connector for M1 so I could have signal where it was needed AND have 5v to power or give that signal in that port per KK2.1 HC instructions). Further, I also have that BEC split into the BATT terminal of my RX, so the BEC runs the RX and the FC so one is not dependent on the other when both are plugged in getting power. So the BEC is spliced and split two (2) ways from the battery, one into the M1 port and the other into the BATT port on my RX. One thing that does happen is that if I unplug one or the other I still have power to one of them due to the BEC being split and the FC and RX being connected. So I don't know if this could be the issue possibly as well? I spliced and split the BEC due to me thinking I wasn't getting power to the RX due to no lighting of any LEDS; I learned that there is only a single orange LED on my RX and that won't come on and stay steady, as well as with the satellite telemetry receivers unless I BIND it first...so once I split the BEC I discovered I really didn't need to because once the bind plug was plugged in I was showing power. I separated the BEC from the RX and kept it on the FC M1 for signal and sure enough it turned on and went into bind mode, so the RX was being jumped from 5v supplied by the the BEC from the ESC; I kept the BEC plugged in the way it is thinking now I will have constant power to each one when they are both plugged in from the BEC, my limited experience says that's not necessarily a bad thing...that it kind of works out better especially with the telemetry satellite receivers taking a little more amp draw anyways, I was also told that it wasn't a bad idea and probably worked out for the best accidentally LOL. Lots of that in the hobby world I think? LOL. Sorry so long...just need some help... ANYONE HELP lol Ross
Loved the video and as somebody who also isn't a native english speaker myself and therefore is very familiar with the problem I highly recommend you check out some synonyms for "highly recommend". :D
Thanks for the video, David! Always entertaining!! I too would like a Naze 32 setup video... Hint Hint.. I have a Tri that the servo oscillates like mad!! I now know that the Rudder P setting is too high. AND I know how to adjust it!! Thanks!!! Muryl
How does this video have so many views!! Are people just nostalgic? Were there really that many people doing this stuff back then? It seemed like I was the only one in my state or even quadrant of the country doing anything of the sort.
im rewatching it right now too, i still have all my tricopter parts laying around inculding several kk2s so i thought what the hell why not build it again! for just normal cruising in acro mode the kk2 does a surprisingly good job.
Nice video Dave. I have the older kk2.0 what causes the tricopter yaw to want to snap back from where I moved it from? It does this from left or right. Everything else is perfect.
Hi David, I was wondering if you could do a detailed video on building a quadcopter. I am looking to build my own, and I am confused on how to set up ESC's program the flight controller, and how to choose the prop drives for it. Thanks!!
Very good tutorial David. Please do one for the Naze32. I'm currently changing from the KK2 to Naze, so would be really helpfull. Theres not a lot of good guides for that Naze, even though it's a very popular board.
Thank you David! I've been using the KK on my tricopters since I saw yours and had to build one last spring! I've had to figure a lot of this out on my own but I still learned a few things. Looking forward to a Naze32 setup vid?? :-)
thank you David the best KK2 setup video i have seen so far. especially the wiring tricks. can you tel us from were do you get the KK2 mini. don't stop the good work Micha
Md Fi Try the throttle calibration. Radio on with throttle at full on, Hold the 2 outer buttons on the KK board then plug in the battery (keep holding the buttons). Move the throttle to down to off, then release the kk buttons. To arm hold the left stick to the bottom right. Unarm is bottom left.
Anthony Gennello Make sure you also do the first process in this video where you go through the receiver monitor and check that the rudder is at 100% in both directions.
Thx Anthony, You hit the head on the Nail, both those adjustments is what made My board non-responsive, I found that Rudder End Points have to read 100%, and the ESC have to be calibrated as well as the throttle needs to read zero when it's in it's lowest position. My Fault, I'm a total noob, but Yea since then, I've had 4 successful Flights, 1 successful crash, didn't even break a prop, fixed it in less than 10 minutes... 8-)
Hi David! Lately people start using the Naze32 Acro instead of the KK2 board. I would be really interested to see you try it out and give us your opinion how it performs compared to the KK2, I'd even buy it for you if that's an issue. Keep up the good work!
Great explanation of the PI settings. Is the "bridge across the signal pins" trick meant to work on a Spektrum receiver? Even matching and double checking the pin-outs, my tricopter wouldn't fly. I resorted back to using the mess of 5 jumper cables.
Thank you for your friendly explanation.
I bought the KK board for the first time last week.
I made a tri-copter with a KK board.
I did not know how to set it up a lot.
Finally, the gas you made and the gas you made were similar, so I applied your PID value as it is.
Today's flight was surprisingly stable.
I really like it.
Thank you once again for your teaching.
Just a quick tip for those who may be experiencing the spinning problem with tricopters (like me !). On the flitetest forum I found the tip “..it may be necessary to set the rudder to -100 in the mixing editor”. That worked for me. It may however also be necessary to reverse the orientation of the rudder in your transmitter as well to eradicate this problem.
Yep been fighting this problem for the last few days . I made a tricopter 8 years ago, out of wood . And here I am with the same board doing it again and today was the day I figured this out going thru the menu . Just have to get the wobble out of auto level and that's down to too much vibration . Gummies already shipped. I have a programmer but the KK board flash tool won't recognize the USBASB.
@@joshsimmons8178 I built a V-tail quadcopter out of wood using the KK2 board, and it flies really well, except for it wobbling when it comes out of a turn. If you know the cause, I would be grateful to hear about it ! 👍
I finally sat down and followed this video, the end was awesome for helping tune my copter! I haven't flown any medium to large multirotors in manual mode, no stability. Now my tricopter flies nicely in manual mode and thanks to David's help with the KK2 board. I am in love with flying these things again!
Thank you David for producing this video. I've been FPV flying a scratch built tri of your design for a couple of years now and mainly just fly in stabilize mode simply because I'd never really gotten it dialed in adequately under acro mode. I will revisit my KK2 settings again now with the help of your tutorial. Thanks again!
My tricopter is on the bench- getting ready to begin assembly.
Hope to get it done before the snow so I can get some killer video on those cold and calm days when the air is thin and the sky is clear.
David once again you came through for us avid watches of your bids, the kk2 board has had me head scratch ing for a while now cos I'm new to the hobby. Hopefully I will now be able to connect it all together, so many thanks..
I have a much older version but was still able to get in the air on the first attempt thanks to your instructions around channel testing. I have spectrum and 2 channels were reversed and subtrim dial in was great. Now i just have to figure out my version of the gyro calibration and it should be great. Been sitting for 6 years, bought at swap meet and never knew exactly how to get it going. Big thanks, subbed.
Thanks David, I had a problem with the tail of my tricopter, it wasn't stopping on a dime. Now I lowered the servo filter to 30 and its much better. I have a digital servo. Thanks cheers.
Hi David, I love DIY tricopter because of all your work in Tricopter fields, even in the TV show that is Great! For this tutoral I realize that tow things missing in this video when I followed your steps.
1, didn't mention that " setting the throttle limit on the ESCs after receiver test done "
2, also forget to remain that "turn off self level " when tuning PI gain outdoor!
I hope this can help people in future~
Thx again, David!
Thanks David, this was very clear. Flight Test is not the same anymore since the time you left...
I reflashed my board with the most up to date KK2.1 V1.9 Updated Firmware. It fly's great! thanks for all of your advice. I know this sounds crazy but in manual/ acro mode I lifted it right up with your third recommendation setting (toward the end of the video) and was surprised. Also if you can't get your board to flash and your running windows 8 google how to change your advanced setting in your computer/ laptop and it will allow it to flash with the right driver and firmware/ flashtool. Pickup the new 1.9 it's awesome.
Thanks for this video! My tricopter has never flown as well as it does with your suggested settings! I was going to by a different flight controller because the throttle control was such a pain in the ass to keep the tricopter at one altitude, but your settings fixed the problem.
Beautiful resource! I just built my own variation of your v.1 tricopter (over on the flitetest channel). It had it's maiden flight yesterday and flew phenomenally! :D This video is golden at explaining the different functions of the board. Thanks! I'll have it flying perfectly in no time.
Good video David, it is nice to see someone use one of the lesser known firmwares on the KK2 board.
Very nice David.
I might even have a go,at it seems pretty straight forward when you're doing it.
At least this way we can use you as a reference. Thank you.
It was also great to see you in England earlier this year.
Suffolk is truly a magical place, especially when I am in it. Have fun
I use KK2.0 and mini KK2.1 but I learnt a lot new things watching this video. Thank you.
Hi David, it is good to see you back, thanks for all the info on the KK2 mini board.
Thanks very much for doing this video David. I've done a lot of reading and watching videos to get a KK2.1 setup and you've very thoroughly summed up days of reading in one video.
Thank you, David! This is by far the most informative and comprehensive fc setup video I've seen yet.
he does a great job telling you what to do and why. i allways go to this vedio when i making a tricopter,
David, as usual, great stuff.
Just some notes for builders out there.
kk2 mini when in ppm mode - remember that ppm signal must go on the Aile channel.
that is the 4th from the bottom of kk2 mini. the mini does not have the 3 sets of pins for receiver input and it is easy to get caught up in just 1 x 3wire cable.
also, David touched on it. there are 2 power rails for the motor/esc output side.
m1 for kk2 board power.
m2 + for servo and other power.
I have found some servo's do not like the kk2 mini board. hk939mg for example. No setting will stop it jittering but a naze or cc3d does not have the issue.
You can also set the self level drift to ensure it remains stationery(if you prefer self level mode). Painless does a good explanation of this.
I found the ..19... steveis firmware a problem, dropped back to ...18 pro,,, and all is great. you also get same models as davids video.
Apparently there is a version of the firmware with the equivalent of Naze's Horizon mode.
From the few boards I have tried, the kk2 is for me the most stable and predictable board in the air.
anyways that's my 2c.
Great video David, I can't remember seeing a better KK2 Programming video. The only thing that was left out that I would have included was ESC calibration.
thanks David some much better than what I've seen on the web so far. everyone seems to be into quads but I still like my tricopter cheers mate from Australia
Thank you, David, it's good to hear your voice again, FT is not the same since you left.
I watched this although I am not yet into copters (fixed wings here ;-).
May sound weird, but I really like the way you are explaining things...
Greetings from Canada! Thanks for the video David, I find your explanations easier to understand than others and very entertaining. Keep your enthusiasm, it is highly contagious and will spread the hobby like wildfire.
Thank you, I have been flying my tricopter for a year and this helped get some of the kinks out!
Thank you very much! This video was very helpful for me setting up my first tricopter. Once I flashed my KK2 board to the latest KK2V1_1V19S1Pro firmware, I was able to select the settings that you show in the video. Flew great right off, I will tweak it as necessary. THANKS AGAIN!
Seeing the beard was a shock!! I didn't expect it at all, but I hope all is well over in Sweden
Thanks David, you answered a lot of questions I had about the mini board. From looking at the regular board to the mini board I thought I messed up on the right flight control board. Also being a newbie I place all my trust in your experience as a RC pilot. Your videos are informative (flite test and your chanel RC Explorers). Thanks and keep us informed on your projects. Oh yeah I might have questions for you if I can't figure them out.
Awesome video, not sure what I missed the first time setting everything up but after resetting up everything following the video we have success again....one side note tho, Im using a futaba analog servo and still need to set the yaw to -100 (I believe Ive read and seen everywhere that digital=-100 and analog=100) if I leave it in the positive range it just spins out. Everythings on the up and up now tho. Thanks again for the superb video and walk thru on building a Tricopter
Thank you David! You are the main reason I built a tricopter and got into FPV and it is awesome. Greetings from Poland! P.S.: You should make more videos :)
Thanks, this is also how I connected it to my X8R. Today was my first time flying a tricopter. So good.
Thanks for sharing David. I just assembled a Turnigy Talon Tricopter and this was invaluable information.
Wonderful Setup Video. Extremely thorough. Thank You so much for posting this video. This will be so helpful when I finish building my 2.6 which I am currently getting back to now that its cold outside and I have time to. Thank You for taking time from your busy schedule to make a great tool to get the Tricopter in the air with confidence.
Definitely a video on the naze32 would be awesome! Or even the CC3D. Great video for the KK. Will help me with my next build for sure.
Brilliant info and very well communicated. I have watched plenty of videos on PID tuning but this is two thumbs up!👍 👍 Thankyou. I am just building my first Tri-copter with a KK2 I'll follow it to the letter😊
I'm just glad the ESC beep is back!
David, really appreciate your time doing this for us. Very helpful mate, cheers!
i dint know what i wouldve done without this video thank u so much david super helpful
Thank you for your incredibly clear explanation of the KK2 board. Now I can feel good about purchasing one. FliteTest hasn't been the same without you. Thank you.
Good video David.
Looking forward to the one for the Naze32
Keep up the good work
I was going to say the same thing... you beat me to it. I have built tricopters with the naze before- but they were not designed for the finesse that this rig is- so I want David's opinions and counsel based on his experiences, as well as others before getting to tuning.
My experience has shown that the yaw PID and settings on the naze need to be tamed down dramatically. Stock PID's will be close for this size craft, but that yaw has me worried. Most Naze boards like to wobble the servo on default settings and need to be dropped on the derivative by almost half.
IF using channel 7 for the tail servo, where do we plug the gimbal servos?
great vid. Im using this tutorial for my zmr 250 build. you have all the good info in a great clean video. great lighting great audio great camera angles.
thank you for an easy to understand P I gains I've got a KK board on a 450 quad but its always jittering around hopefully dial it in a little smoother now!
Brilliant, professionally made video.This has been a great help.Thanks
Very helpful. Thanks.
Best explanation of the P and I settings, ever.
I know you're very busy Sir, but since so many love your videos, why don't you start a weekly relase on your channel? You've got amazing videos, imagine how good you could do!
i have to agree i know i would watch every video David released. He is very good at explaining things and its very apparent he has a deep love and appreciation for what he's doing. Make more videos David
Maybe it depends somehow on the amount of time and thought that are required to produce such nice and well scripted videos? I personally prefer this format to frequent dumb rambling. I's called more signal and less noise.
Why don't you personally produce great breathtaking amazing things every tuesday and friday? Please point me to them if you suddenly do...
Watch his old videos! They are great even if very simple!
I've watched all his Vids, Old and New, some I've watched 2 or three times, Loved the one of his Space Plane, Awesome Footage there, and presently working on his Tri-Copter Build, I can hardly wait till it's ready to fly, so much Great Knowledge, thx David.. :D
pugs2300 I enjoy Davids videos as much as anyone, I share and support his love and devotion to the hobby. My only problem is greedy people bitching around and asking for more. Yes, you did that politely and respectfully, great! But that does not change the meaning of the sentence. Why don't you try not to behave like a little doggy asking for more treats. Maybe you have a full bodied question, reaching into the core of some popular issue or a ready scenario for David to make an episode, that would be constructive and thus very welcome. But "polite bla-bla give us more and more frequently!" Is a bit undignified, and demotivating, don't you think?
David, loving your video`s on here, this one is a great help as i am building a Titus 600 Tri with KK2 board, keep up the superb work
Just one thing, would you be able to advise on P and i settings with 600 frame and 720k v motors 11" props
Ok David. For a month i have been flying my scratchbuilt 585mm tricopter on a trusty KK2 board with lots of success... The tail however had a bit more wobble than is should have. I watched almost every tricopter setup and build you have done and decided to switch to Naze32 to get the Tail Tune function ti hopefully smooth out that wobble. Removed the KK and wired and programmed the Naze32 with Triflight. First off. It wont fly... Wont get off the ground with out the spin of death and the Tail servos (same ones that worked fine with the KK2) keep getting so hot that they burn out and one has even magic smoked... Not even in flight either. Just during the tail tune and leveling... The servos are not too tight, the servo isnt binding, they are fresh out of the box brand new emax 9g metal servos.
I would like to stay with the superior Triflight programming but cant afford to keep burning servos and not flying...
What am i doing wrong? What could the Naze be doing wrong since if i put the KK back on the tricopter it lifts off and controls fine and the servos stays ice cold...
Also one other note. Even after tail tune when i go to arm, the Tail mech tips to the right. And wont control left past the center point. It stays completely right, in normal operation and with a servo tester the servo is centered and has fluid motion both ways.
Help Me Please as I am attending one of my first Fly events in a week and would like it flying well!
I was struggling with inversing the yaw, i made it and it worked great ! So great that i even lost the tricopter, OMG that things is so much better that a quadcopter, i m looking for an other kk board !
this was a really interesting video. One which goes through each setting and says what it does in real terms. It solved one problem on my quad straight off! Thanks, you've helped me - well worth watching.
Great Video David! I wish there was something like this for the CC3D board.
At the 2 minute mark you are using 2 servo leads as intended and let 3 signal channels run through one servo lead. You have maximized the space between the ground wires. While that will probably work ok in most of cases I would add that having the ground/positive wires spaced out is also an invitation for disturbances into the gnd/positive. You are creating an as large as possible ground loop. So, I would recommend having the two "fully wired" servo leads next to each other and then the 3:rd wire used for rest of signals. I would in any of the cases keep the power/signal wires bundled together as tight as possible to eliminate surface area for EMI* to enter. Keep signal cables clear of power/motor leads. With the current levels and frequent shifting of voltages to motors there is plenty of high strength EMI to go around. *=Electro Magnetic Interference
What you say does not make any sense to me, all the ground and positive pins are connected into rails at both receiver and KK. I cannot imagine any ground loop there. It may look like one on physical layer, but not in schematic representation.
NGC1433 It's really difficult to explain without pictures. I hope I'll be able to put something together to explain, but I can't guarantee.
Yes, the positive and negative are close together, not much of an exposed area for radiated EMI to insert itself to create voltage disturbance on +6V or other BEC level. However, the gnd (and 6V) is probably shorted out in both ends, with the complete servo leads create a hoop for gnd and a BEC hoop. The further the servo leads are spread, the bigger the area, it basically acts like a 1 turn transformer winding, ready to receive any input. Depending on field strength you will create a local differential shift of gnd/bec levels which might affect servo signal performance. Since one servo lead might be closer to EMI source, it could have a different gnd level compared to other servo lead.
Thanks David. Nice clear video with good advice.
cool video David. thank your for sharing. learn something new too. never thought of the end point part.
With the mini you can buy individual cables. I use them with other circuit boards can be bought from any good electronics store
Good video David. I'll be setting up a simplecopter with this video this weekend. Wanting to try fpv on tri and see if I like it better than with quad as I totally love the look of your mini-tri kit and will order if I decided I like the feel of the tri-copter better than the quad for fpv.
at 7:50 can that only be done with certain radio's?
Best KK video I have seen
Excellent video David! I still love my KK2. Now I'm gonna have to dust off my X900 and do some fpv 😃
Great video David! Long anticipated and am looking forward to putting the KK2 Mini board on the frame :-) If you don't fly with ESCs with build-in BECs, remember that the M2-M8 rail also needs its separate power supply? (If for instance flying with Afro Slim 20A ESCs. Also take to account the Amps the servo draws when configuring your system (Afro 20A/30A ESCs only supply 500 mA on the BEC)
I am using the Afro 30 with my build. Would you suggest a BEC then? I was going to run it as is since there was no mention of needing a BEC. Please correct me if I'm wrong to do that.
jodati If you are running 3 Afro 30A with BEC, two of them would be connected to M2+M3 providing a total of 1A to the servo which should be enough. Using two linear BECs on the same system should not be a problem, just don't use more than one switching BEC on a system (you can't combine switching BECs).
This was very helpful. Thank you David!
Thank you for full kk2 board setup infirmation. :)
Great info David it's so much help the way you explain things. Thanks so much mate and Greetings from OZ. Have a Safe Xmas.
i have been waiting for this vid for ages thank you.
Very useful thanks so much I've now got my tricopter flying
For the first time
Thanks for the great video David. Very helpful.
Hi David, thank you for the great vedio! You tought a lot to us players! Waiting for your update!
Hey great video David. You should do a how to video on the naze32 too.
as always a great video. "I highly recommend"-David Windestal
Great video :)
Love the transitions !
Great !! Can't wait for my airframe. And post more build vids
Great video David as always :- )
Love the mountain man look
this helped me a lot.. for learning...!!! Also, would you like to explain autopilot in rc planes.. how can we make it happen..
looking forward to the naze32 setup video
Rock solid their david awesome vid for the kk2
I have some tech questions and need assistance in regards to where the Rudder output (yaw) needs to go...I have an open rudder port on my copter and I am using the KK2.1 HC flight controller.
I have everything set up on the FC as far as I know via your video. Some of the options you have on the KK2.0 is not available on the KK2.1 HC..I think they streamlined programming for this version, like the bubble, it is NOT within this firmware out of the box.
I have the Dragon Fly setup from Flite Test with the Tough Tilt yaw servo. This servo is connected to my Spektrum AR9020's RUDDER port and I have all ESC's including the Tough Tilts mounted flight motor ESC running to the corresponding M-ports on the KK2.1HC FC, and all are in order and plugged in according to the FC setup for Tricopter in the firmware that is displayed on the LCD with help from your walk through on this video.
Things I have tried for trouble shooting so far really are limited next to actual connection issues, but everything is where it needs to be and I get all the standby tones when the board is in menu mode etc; so far I have bound using both 11ms and 22ms, as well as DSM2 and DSMX (I'm a Spektrum/Horizon user) with no motor response from the copter once I have all parameters put into the FC and loaded. I do get a message on the board and it displays Warning or something along the lines of "No Yaw Input detected"...and that makes sense, since there is not input plugged in on the FC for the RUDDER channel...I only have an ESC to plug into M4 port on the FC (my set up and where the esc is recognized) and then I have the Tough Tilt servo plugged into my Spektrum RX for its communication and actuation.
My limited experience is still telling me that I know we need to put something into the RUDDER port of the FC to have it recognized by it, but as I said I only have an ESC to plug into one side of the FC and then the Tough Tilt servo to plug into the RX, so where does the RUDDER port on the FC get connected to?
My next attempt was to use an non-amplified Y harness (Cant amplify with Spektrum RX's-for reasons they give but I don't go too much in depth beyond that they say don't) to run a servo connector from the FC RUDDER channel to one end of the Y and then run the other servo connector from the RX to the remaining port of the Y connector; issue here though my limited experience is telling me, is that I'll have servo signal going into one side of the Y, and then have the board output for RUDDER going into the other...which would simply just satisfy the issue of the FC not having anything connected to the the RUDDER port and RUDDER port on the the RX at the same time...I look at it and it only solves the issue of having a port that is not plugged into a anything...the two may be split but one is for out signal from the FC that will Y into the Tough Tilt servo; one is ESC/FC related and the other is a stand alone simple actuating servo....this is where I am stumped.
I need some help with how this Dragon Fly is supposed to be set up in my configuration...They Tough Tilt is throwing the wrench a little here..but it could be another factor possibly...See below.
Now, I did have to run a Castle Creations (CC BEC 10amp 4.9-9v) from one of my ESC's since my 30A Spider ESC's DO NOT HAVE BEC's. I spliced the CCBEC into my M1 port on my KK2.1 for proper 5v signal (The kk2.1 requires signal to go to M1 port, and it was taken by M1 ESC, so I had to tap the connector for M1 so I could have signal where it was needed AND have 5v to power or give that signal in that port per KK2.1 HC instructions).
Further, I also have that BEC split into the BATT terminal of my RX, so the BEC runs the RX and the FC so one is not dependent on the other when both are plugged in getting power. So the BEC is spliced and split two (2) ways from the battery, one into the M1 port and the other into the BATT port on my RX. One thing that does happen is that if I unplug one or the other I still have power to one of them due to the BEC being split and the FC and RX being connected. So I don't know if this could be the issue possibly as well? I spliced and split the BEC due to me thinking I wasn't getting power to the RX due to no lighting of any LEDS; I learned that there is only a single orange LED on my RX and that won't come on and stay steady, as well as with the satellite telemetry receivers unless I BIND it first...so once I split the BEC I discovered I really didn't need to because once the bind plug was plugged in I was showing power. I separated the BEC from the RX and kept it on the FC M1 for signal and sure enough it turned on and went into bind mode, so the RX was being jumped from 5v supplied by the the BEC from the ESC; I kept the BEC plugged in the way it is thinking now I will have constant power to each one when they are both plugged in from the BEC, my limited experience says that's not necessarily a bad thing...that it kind of works out better especially with the telemetry satellite receivers taking a little more amp draw anyways, I was also told that it wasn't a bad idea and probably worked out for the best accidentally LOL. Lots of that in the hobby world I think? LOL.
Sorry so long...just need some help...
ANYONE HELP lol
Ross
Thank you for this. Iv'e been waiting for just this
Thanks for sharing David! Great video!
Loved the video and as somebody who also isn't a native english speaker myself and therefore is very familiar with the problem I highly recommend you check out some synonyms for "highly recommend". :D
... perfect and useful introduction! :-) Thanks David!
Thanks for the video David.
mycket användbar video, tack
Dude! Love the TF cutscene!
Thanks for the video, David! Always entertaining!! I too would like a Naze 32 setup video... Hint Hint..
I have a Tri that the servo oscillates like mad!! I now know that the Rudder P setting is too high. AND I know how to adjust it!! Thanks!!!
Muryl
How does this video have so many views!! Are people just nostalgic? Were there really that many people doing this stuff back then? It seemed like I was the only one in my state or even quadrant of the country doing anything of the sort.
I went back to this 4 years after ! Digging out my "old" Talon tricopter to give it a fresh new start :p
lol, best of luck
im rewatching it right now too, i still have all my tricopter parts laying around inculding several kk2s so i thought what the hell why not build it again! for just normal cruising in acro mode the kk2 does a surprisingly good job.
Nice video Dave. I have the older kk2.0 what causes the tricopter yaw to want to snap back from where I moved it from? It does this from left or right. Everything else is perfect.
Nicely explained, thanks.
Hi David, I was wondering if you could do a detailed video on building a quadcopter. I am looking to build my own, and I am confused on how to set up ESC's program the flight controller, and how to choose the prop drives for it. Thanks!!
Very good tutorial David. Please do one for the Naze32.
I'm currently changing from the KK2 to Naze, so would be really helpfull. Theres not a lot of good guides for that Naze, even though it's a very popular board.
Thank you David! I've been using the KK on my tricopters since I saw yours and had to build one last spring! I've had to figure a lot of this out on my own but I still learned a few things. Looking forward to a Naze32 setup vid?? :-)
thank you David
the best KK2 setup video i have seen so far. especially the wiring tricks.
can you tel us from were do you get the KK2 mini.
don't stop the good work
Micha
@David, this is an awesome project build, thanks so much for sharing and walking us noobs through it so thoroughly. You are the Man!... :D
How do you solve that problem?
Md Fi I had the same thing a while ago, it's to do with D/R for me anyway.
Md Fi Try the throttle calibration. Radio on with throttle at full on, Hold the 2 outer buttons on the KK board then plug in the battery (keep holding the buttons). Move the throttle to down to off, then release the kk buttons. To arm hold the left stick to the bottom right. Unarm is bottom left.
Anthony Gennello Make sure you also do the first process in this video where you go through the receiver monitor and check that the rudder is at 100% in both directions.
Thx Anthony, You hit the head on the Nail, both those adjustments is what made My board non-responsive, I found that Rudder End Points have to read 100%, and the ESC have to be calibrated as well as the throttle needs to read zero when it's in it's lowest position. My Fault, I'm a total noob, but Yea since then, I've had 4 successful Flights, 1 successful crash, didn't even break a prop, fixed it in less than 10 minutes... 8-)
Thank you David for this usefull video.
Hi David!
Lately people start using the Naze32 Acro instead of the KK2 board. I would be really interested to see you try it out and give us your opinion how it performs compared to the KK2, I'd even buy it for you if that's an issue.
Keep up the good work!
Simple and Awesome!!!
Very nice video. It helps a lot
my quadcopter show yaw input error and it become disarm before lift please tell me to solve this problem
hey man i am new to this and i wanna know what happens when you dont flash kk board
Great explanation of the PI settings. Is the "bridge across the signal pins" trick meant to work on a Spektrum receiver? Even matching and double checking the pin-outs, my tricopter wouldn't fly. I resorted back to using the mess of 5 jumper cables.