I think this was the best explanation for me IMHO. I was able to follow along very well. Obviously, the visual aspect definitely contributed. The side travel on a hill, and how the shocks react to the outward pressure was golden. Thank you 👍
I'm don't typically comment, but this was a great video. Especially when you demonstrate how the droop benefits you during side hill. Very cool bud 👍 👌
These shocks are awesome. I just installed them on my TRX 4 They work great and I highly recommend them. It lowers the high trail and makes it a great scale crawler. Thank you for the vid. I left a shout out for you in my next vid. Just tryin to get us followers.
Awesome video! Thanks for the advice on setup! But just a note. You can take the sprint out without removing that pesky C-Clip. You just have to unthread the Bottom portion and you can disassemble from there. Much easier in my opinion than dealing with that circlip. But thank you for your suggestions! Awesome video.
Yes that method of disassembly would work great but I thought I would show the more complicated way to show it can be done. Not because I over looked the simpler solution 😉 ok I did overlook that way in my haste to record a video. Haha Glad you found the rest of it useful. 👍
Thank You for the Demonstration on these YR Desert Lizard shocks, I'm putting the 100mm on a revamping of my Enduro Trailwalker and planning on lean and droop set-up as long as they clear the steering link LOL ✌🤠👍 HFLPRCing Having Fun Laughing Playing and RCing 👍😎👍 AOAH Association of Addicted Hobbiest 🙏 SSPH Stay Safe and Play Healthy My Friend ❣️
Hey sir I greatly appreciate the video explaining these shocks, I'm going to put a link to this video in the description on my next video installing these on my rig
I just got these and was gonna put them on a different build because I tried to run the softest spring to have max droop and lift and got way to much flex steer when I flex so I think I’m gonna do a little bit more playing with them before I give up thank you so much for your help you definitely got me to subscribe
@@chrislovett87 Excellent 👍 I hope you find it enjoyable and fulfilling. There's an endless supply of helpful videos here on UA-cam to get you through any troubles you run into as you get things figured out. Good luck my friend.
I'm currently running the medium strength, medium length spring in the cylinder and the light strength, medium length spring under the Piston. ( I wish the springs were color coded so it was easier to differentiate between them) But play around with different setups until you find the one you like. These shocks offer a lot of versatility to set them up different ways.
Awesome upgrade,thank you for the info,I tried some of the China knockoffs and they blew apart on me, so I went back to stock for now,but these look cool, I will check into them👍👍
James Swift They've been good for me so far and personally I love tinkering on this stuff. These shocks have a lot of versatility to experiment with. So I'll probably change them again in a few months just to try a different setup.
Thanks you for sharing such knowledge. Much appreciated. Would you consider a 100mm shock is an improvement over the stock 90mm ? I have a Trx4 defender and I find the defender body to be very tall. But really interested in running a 100mm shocks. Also last question what is your opinion about the piggyback desert lizard from yeah racing as well? Cheers.
I've had the 100mm on for a long time now and if I were to spend to upgrade I would go with the 90mm. The trx4 is already a high center of gravity design and the longer shocks just accentuate it. The extra flex you get isn't useful if your truck tips over. Less flex with lower CG will be much more predictable and capable on the trail. But if you just want a tall highlift looking truck and don't care about CG and crawling performance the 100mm should bolt right in. You may have to adjust pinion angles but otherwise it will work just fine if that's what you want to do. And as far as the piggyback shocks I have never used them so I don't have a qualified opinion. Considering the tiny size of these things I really don't see them having the same functionally as full size versions. They do look pretty cool and could be a good choice if you need piggyback shocks to complete the look you are going for.
The shocks I used are 100mm. Where are you having wheel rub that’s causing a problem? It’s normal for there to be a little rub between the tire and part of the body when the suspension is fully compressed. But when fully compressed if that rub is significant and potentially damaging to the body you should address it. Since these shocks are 10mm longer than stock there will be less opportunities for tire rub because at full compression the tire will be further away from the body than with the stock shorter shocks. If you want to get rid of the rub altogether you can raise the body slightly until it stops. On most trucks the body mounts are adjustable. You will have to adjust the sliders the same amount so they continue to line up with the body.
Nice video bud! One of the best information rich video I’ve seen. But one question. Even with the droop your bronco seems a little bit high? Higher then stock? Got me confused 🤔
Educational video. Thank you. Have you run the Desert Lizard shocks on a Gen 8? It's the Axe Edition with light kit, winch, full spare... she's pretty heavy. 9.3 lbs.
I have not but my trx4 is about ten pounds with all the gear and the battery and it still isn't heavy enough to need to use the strong springs that come with the Desert Lizard shocks, the medium ones work fine for me. I do plan to get another set of the shocks to put on our Gen 8 Axe. The stock springs are quite soft and I think running a forced droop set up would greatly improve the handling for how we use it.
@@love_gang-ytgang Real nice. Haven't had it out much though. Allow for full soft flex while staying firm on the compression. And what's more surprising is no seeping yet!
Hi, Do those shocks mount up to the stock bronco shock towerrs?. I know the original shock, the top parts has a longer shock eye. To eliminate play and the screw point.
P. K. They fit but they aren't the same depth so you will have to add a spacer if you want to eliminate the extra slop. I forgot to mention that in the video.
Great vid, thank you for sharing. My DL’s arrive tomorrow. I noticed you had your shockers inverted on your sweet rig. What’s the benefit there as I’ve seen others do it, too?
No benefits. Some will do it to have the heaviest part down low. Some will do it just to be different. I think one of my shocks was dripping a little oil and was seeing if being upside down would have any affect on it, it did not.
The pivot balls on the shock body end were extra bits from my parts bin. I think they came out of old rod ends or broken shocks maybe. Don’t remember exactly. The ones on the shaft end were off the stock Traxxas shocks. Packs of rod ends with pivot balls are inexpensive though if you need to have different sizes. You can get a bag of them for $10 bucks or so on Amazon or your local hobby shop should have them as well. I just made do with the random bits I had on hand. I should have pointed out in the video that What exactly I had changed to mount them, sorry about that.
That is definitely an option. I like to do do fast trailing with it sometimes so having a little room to soak up some bumps helps. The setup in the video is a compromise between slow crawling stability and still handling ok on the trails.
Unfortunately No I swapped out the Desert lizards for a cheap backup set while experimenting with putting the internal spring shocks on a different project but that didn't work and now they are on the shelf waiting to be re setup for crawling to go back in the TRX4. I just haven't gotten back to it. I do want to do another video on them. It's just down the list of video ideas aways and not likely to be very soon. From what I've been hearing lots of people are having trouble keeping oil in these things. I did have some trouble with one of mine, with only minor leaking on the rest, wasn't a big deal for me though.
Aye Bee Well I don't really know about full size ones but most RC shocks do have a seal around the shaft it's just not always a good one. Some brands just use a small rubber O-ring. The shaft seals on these Desert lizard shocks aren't actually where they leaked for me. It was the rubber seal on the threaded cap end that screws into the main shock body.
They’re going on a Gen8 Axe. I’ve upgraded to the 550can 3300kv motor. Also put proline 1.9 ‘Boggers’. I’ve got some nice heavy brass (outer portal housings) on it to. So I figured why not a shock upgrade? LOL!!! Thanks for the reply bud! Keep on keeping on brother! 👍
TJ, what's your thoughts on spring rate, oil weight and piston for a heavy truck.? Idk exactly the weight, but it's heavier than any other TRX I've compared to. My truck is heavy enough to sag the stock (kit built) suspension.
Unfortunately that topic is quite subjective. And “sagging " isn't really the issue to solve unless you mean the truck is so heavy that it bottoms out the springs just sitting still. To start, any good RC shock is only going to have a couple of ways to make adjustments. A reasonable rule of thumb is to set the preload tension on the shock spring so the truck sits in approx the middle or just below (this is really up to you though) of the suspension travel. Some shocks have an adjustable collar that moves up and down to put more or less tension on the spring (more tension raises the ride height) others require you to change to stiffer or softer springs, like the ones in the above video. Once you have your ride hieght set drive it around on some typical terrains for you. You may find that one end or the other needs a bit more or less to keep the truck level. I usually find that the truck performs better with a little stiffer set up on the rear. I have one truck that requires twice the preload on just the driver side shocks or it won't sit level while under power. Now that set of tuning was the easy part because when it comes to shock oils there are a million right answers and twice as many opinions. The simplest way to start is after watching your truck drive on the various terrains that are common for you, you ask yourself if you like how it handles or is it acting to bouncy. Then try switching to a little heavier weight oil from were it currently is. However if you're watching it and think the suspension is reacting to slow, then try a lighter weight oil. If it turns out you really love the suspension tuning stuff you can take it a step further and play around with trying different pistons, some brands of shocks come with a variety of different pistons each with more or less holes in it to change how fast the oil can push through it. I don't think thats necessary though unless you really enjoy shock tuning. This whole thing is based on how you want to see the truck drive or wether you want it to perform better over certain types of obstacles vs others. Each type of terrain might require a little different setup or like me you can go for a compromise setup that simply does good enough on a variety of terrains. I do tend to try tuning mine for what I feel is a bit more realistic because 99% of the time I'm not competing I just want to enjoy watching and driving it. All that to say the only oil weight number that matters to you is the starting point. If you can tune the stock set up to your liking the numbers are irrelevant. If you don't like it then you need to find out what weight is in your stock shocks, I think the stock TRX4 uses 30w oil but don't quote me on that. If you want to play around with the suspension order a few different weights of oil some a little thicker and thinner than what is in there now and experiment. Your truck and mine don't weigh the same and don't have the same weight bias so knowing my numbers won't help. Just fiddle with it until you get it the way you want it, then smile big. I like how heavier RC trucks drive I think it's easier to get them to look realistic vs the real light trucks. Not everyone cares about that though. Good luck getting it dialed in. Let me know what combination you end up going with. 👍👍
I’m new to the RC hobby. I have a trx4 k5 blazer midnight edition. I will be getting 120mm dessert lizard shocks ( silver ) I was wondering what’s the best tuning you recommend from oil to springs. I do a lot of crawling and trails. Lots of side hills as well. Minimal on the mud.
First off unless you have the TRX4 that came with the large 2.2 wheels or the Traxxas lift kit my opinion is that 120mm are to long. I personally wouldn't go more than 100mm on the basic TRX4. As for oil, in a crawler using dessert lizard shocks just get a medium to lightweight oil. 25-35 weight oil is more than adequate. Oil tuning does very little in the way of measurable changes on a crawler truck. And the spring setup in the video is as good a place as any to start with.
@@valleymade9563 it depends on how heavy the truck is. You have to play around with it a little to figure out how you want it to sit and ride. Don't add the oil until you commit to trying a spring combo then drive it for a few batteries worth before making any changes.
No I didn't because I set it up to ride right in the middle with about a 50% droop and it worked virtually the same regardless of which end was up. In a sense it doesn't matter what end you have be the top because the weight of the vehicle will still be trying to compress the shock together either way. The same spring will be supporting the weight of the truck if shock is right side up or upside down. Does that help or did I misunderstand your question?
Wow what a Great video! Really good explaining and a good free upgrade. Going to do this with my mountain shocks. But i have a problem that them dont Compress all the way down. Any idea?
When you assemble the shock you have to fully compress it as you tighten the cap down otherwise there'll be to much pressure and it won't compress properly.
The springs inside could be taking up more space than expected. Something else to check is with the shock cap off make sure the shock shaft can slide it's full end to end movement. If that still doesn't work. Try removing the internal spring. Then assemble and see how it moves through both full extension and compression. If at that point it's all good then it must be the spring itself causing the binding. If that is the case try a different spring if you have one.
Just got these shocks for my Trx 4. Do you find you like the 50/50 set up you did? Also how do you feel about 30 weight oil in them? It’s what I have at the moment, just wondering what your opinion is I’m very new to this. Great video also super helpful on how to get these installed!
The 50/50 setup is good for all around driving. If you do mostly slow crawling you may want it to sit lower with a 75/25 or even full droop. 30wt oil is fine. For slower crawling and trailing the oil WT is less important than the spring choice IMO. If you're going to be blasting the truck fast the oil WT becomes more important to how the suspension reacts to the bumps.
@@TJsRC awesome thanks very much. A lot of people I ask questions like this and they just kind of make rude comments and never answer lol. Your input is very much appreciated!
I'm sorry that the community hasn't been very welcoming. I try to get back to everyone that comments on my video's, especially when they have actual questions. I am by no means an expert but try to be helpful if I can. 👍👍
@@mikebudkey7068 I used the pivot ball from the stock shock. To keep the desert lizard shock from rattling off the stock pivot ball I used an extra rubber o-ring as a spacer on one side of the pivot ball when I installed it. Let me know if that isn’t clear enough and I’ll try to find a video clip showing it for you. 👍
Thanks for the info. I have a 90mm set on order for an scxii crawler do you find they leak less in the shaft up shock body down like you have yours oriented? Also, can you try different spring combos without oil in the shocks to make the process less of a mess?
The leak I experienced didn't change when the shock was upside down. And yes you can easily test out different spring combos without the oil. The truck will just be overly bouncy without the oil in there.
I know this is one of your older videos about the desert lick shocks? In the end are they worth the money? Or just play with internal springs on the stock TRX shock ? I know a lot of this is preference. But Generally do you know if you would buy another set? That’s a good way of putting it. Would you buy a Set today?
I don’t think I’ll buy another set of these. They are very versatile to be sure but each time you want to make an adjustments you have to disassemble the the thing and that gets old. I will probably go with a more name brand shock the next time I upgrade shocks on a rig. The stock TRX4 shocks are actually very good and you can get them in a few different lengths. I would also like to try a set of shocks from Vanquish eventually.
Great video! I am in the process of building a Bruiser clone to run with my kids. This truck has leaf springs. I would like to keep the scale look, and not run coil overs. I read your comment about pulling them apart to make changes, so do you know of any other options? Mine will be trail/crawler, I don't mind shock tuning either. God bless
Would this work on the piggyback version? I didn't know if the shock body or spring was the same size diameter. I wanted to buy the springs and try on my DL 100mm piggyback for a Capra.
The existing ones from the stock TRX4 shocks. You can use the entire shock rod end off the stock shock. Then at least one end will connect exactly as it comes from factory.
They are carried by lots of places that sell RC parts. You can start by going to to Google or your favorite web search site and search for "Desert lizard shocks". You should get plenty of results. You could also try RCmart.com or Amain.com or even Amazon.com and eBay. All will likely carry the Desert lizard shocks.
Joey McKenzie I don't see why not. These shocks are very tunable so just pay attention to how your rig handles and make changes accordingly if you want. If it rides way to bouncy try a heavier weight oil. If the suspension is compressing to easily try stiffer springs. If the suspension barely compresses when it's supposed to try the lighter springs. The shocks come with everything you need, except the shock oil, to experiment with all kinds of different setups so don't be afraid to play around with it. I hope that's helpful and I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. 👍
I have not seen the lift kit in person so I'm not sure what length shocks are useable with it. 110mm is getting quite long though. At that length even when the suspension is fully compressed the truck will still be almost an inch taller than stock. That's not to say don't do it. It's the great part about this hobby, do it your own way and see if it works. Having a forced droop setup will likely help the stability vs regular shocks. You can always swap the stock shocks back in and run it for comparison. If you're going to be lifting it that high are you planning to run some extra large tires for a more monster truck look? Or do you just want enormous amounts of travel for stock sized tires?
No if u watch someone to the lift the trx4 kit comes with 110mm shocks and suppose to use 2.2 tires but ppl take the shock adjustment out but with them been 110mm shock quite big i think running up shock set up would work great
In theory the shock won't care whether it's upside down. The droop function should stay the same. The ability of the oil to do it's dampening job could be affected though but it's likely unnoticeable at the small scale sizes of these trucks. Especially when slow crawling. If you were building an off-road racing RC truck you would need to be more detailed with the suspension setup.
This is just what I need for my TRX4 after I have installed long arm liftkit to drop the car down but maintain the flex. What kind of springs do you use for the droop rate? Im looking in buying the YR 110mm desert lizzard piggyback shocks for this setup
The shocks come with three different strength springs and each of those in three different lengths. In the video I used the medium length, medium tension spring for the preload and the medium length, light tension spring for the under the piston droop spring. You may need to play around with it depending on how heavy your rig is and where you want your ride height to be.
Hi, If my truck has 90mm stock how far can I extend? I see these things go up to 120mm an was wondering what I can get away with as I'm looking to get WAY more droop but also some suport to clear slightly bigger tyres. Thanx. Jonathan
It depends on what RC truck. On the TRX4 like in the video. You can put 100mm shocks on for a bit more clearance but the front end suspension will have binding and not be able to make full use of the added length. Traxxas makes a specific long travel kit for the TRX4 that allows for much more travel and hight. I don’t have that as they want to much for it for my RC budget. Other models will have different limitations but usually 100mm shocks won’t cause to many issues.
No it will not change it because whether upside down or right side up the same spring will be pushing the chassis up. However there’s no good reason to run them upside down in a trail truck like this. It was a failed experiment and I forgot to put them back upright before I filmed the video. It has certainly sparked a lot of comments though 😁
Nick Lewis I didn't use the stock TRX4 balls I used some extras that I had in my parts bin. You could use the yeah racing ones and just make spacers to fill the gaps so they don't rattle around.
Traxxas makes a misc clips pack part number TRA1633 that has plenty of extras for when your "friend" drops one under the bench. Here's an Amazon link or you can search the PN on any website that sells replacement Traxxas rc parts. Traxxas 1633 E-Clip, C-Clip, Snap R Ring, 40-Piece, 777-Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6J56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6KJAYXVV6PQWA5Z52AS2
Great video, good explanation....i was thinking of just putting the small spring above the ring and nothing on the bottom, so the rig can sit even lower, have you tried this? Thank you !!
Donald Guadagnolo I have not tried that specific setup but if it's for a slow rock crawler it would probably be fine. My favorite part about these shocks is the number of different ways they can be set up. You just have to experiment to see if it will work for your driving style and the terrain you like to go on. If while driving with the short spring in there you find that it flexes to fast or the body roll is still to much then move up to the medium length one. You'll get it setup the way you like it just takes a little time. Good luck getting it dialed in. 👍👍
Hello I'm running a redcat gen 7 with the 90 mm lizards. I'm getting a ton of rear bounce and my shocks don't want to return to normal after any flex without throttle. I have been trying it with spring only no oil. Would oil improve the return performance and reduce bounce? Sorry I'm a newb
Are you running them in a droop setup with a spring above and below the valve in the shock? Also when you say running without oil, is it bone dry inside the shock body? Running no oil isn’t bad but you still need a good coat or film of oil on the inside and all the moving parts or binding from being to dry can occur.
Anything rc My experience so far has been mostly positive except when I take the rig in extreme cold then a couple of them leak. I have different o-rings to try I just haven't gotten around to it.
TJsRC thanks for getting back to me think I’ll give them a go I live in the uk and it doesn’t get that cold here but when it does I don’t go out that much anyway lol I do like the look of them as well cheers
Yes it is. But I went with demonstrating the hardest way to do it. Purely for science and educational purposes though not because It didn’t occur to me until after I started making the video 😉.
So can you get a little bit of lift outta this setup if you run one of the taller springs? Looking to get alittle more outta my trx4 blazer so I can run 2.2s??
Technically yes but if your TRX4 has lockers you have to be mindful of the locker cables, there isn’t much extra play with those stock cables when you start lifting. It’s very easy to overlook and be over extending the downwards flex of the suspension and have to much stress on that cable. This was at least the case on my TRX4 but I have one of the first ones. Maybe they’ve got longer ones now because Traxxas sell lift kits for them and you can even get them pre lifted with the 2.2 tires.
@@TJsRC yeah I have the trx4 sport and the trx4 f150 high trail. Just picked up a trx4 k5 blazer and was thinking about doing this. I know they make longer cables so maybe I'll go that route
The pivot ball they come with for the top of the shock body should work it will just need a small spacer of some kind so that the shock body doesn't slide off the pivot ball. I had extra pivot balls lying around from some old shocks that were wider and I used those. For the bottom rod end I swapped out the end that came on the shocks for the stock Traxxas shock ends. Does this help? What is preventing yours from working?
@@TJsRC Thanks for the info. I'll swap out the ends and try and find some kind of spacer. I had thought somehow you used the pivots that were on the original shocks.
I had some extra ones in my parts bin that I used. I believe the ones that come with the shocks could work if you used spacers of some kind. One option is to take the whole rod end off the shaft of the TRX4 shock and put it on the desert lizard one then at least one end of each shock has a factory look. As for the top of the desert lizards get creative and make it work. Try making the ball out of the cap for the TRX4 shock work, might take a little work and if it feels to loose put a rubber o-ring on each side of the ball and it shouldn’t rattle around. As for holding up they did fine, only a little leakage until I ran them in bitter cold then a few of them gave up all their oil. I don’t think the cap o-rings in them like freezing temps. So they are currently awaiting a rebuild in my parts box.
Which size did you order, and is that the length when pulled out completely or in resting position? At the moment, I'm running 90mm Gmade G-Transition shocks that are 120mm in length when pulled out completely, and I don't know if to buy the 100mm YR Shocks, because they could be either longer or shorter than mine. I'd be really happy about a reply from your side!
Boss Shock lengths are usually measured eye to eye at full extention. The ones in this video are 100mm. The stock trx4 shocks are 90mm. Are you putting them on a TRX4 as well?
@@TJsRC no, I want to use them on my MST CMX, and the 90mm G-Transition by Gmade are a bit short, so the wheels are touching the body in the back. But if your shocks measure 100mm at full extension, I have to look for another solution. But thanks for your answer
Here’s the link for similar ones. And they do not come with oil in them. Yeah Racing 100mm Desert Lizard Two Stage Internal Spring Damper Pair Black for Crawler www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8G8ND7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_14P2FBNZJGKDXCEZ92BX
@@bestrockmetalinaustralia1588 I like to play around with different weights of oil but 30wt is a good middle ground to start with. Team Associated 5422 30 Weight Silicone Shock Oil, 2-Ounce www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZSRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_36N22W09CPG514ZM0YY4
That’s a hard call because it really depends on a number of factors. Also note that all my crawling experience is from non competition crawling by myself or with friends. However this is what I think would be a good place to start. For slow crawling though I would say a great place to start would be a 75/25 droop setup with spring strength determined by how heavy the truck is. If one corner falls into a hole you want those springs strong enough to prevent it from nose diving in with the dropping tire but not so stiff that there’s no flex. And the oil weight has very little influence when you’re going so slow unless the oil is overly thick that will slow the suspension reaction to much so in my opinion so just use whatever you extra of in the 20-45 weight range. Then take note how it handles and make adjustments later based what you saw/felt as you were driving through the obstacles.
@@gregoryduvall4758 I’m referring to inside the shock. what I mean is longer springs on the droop side of the piston and short spring above the piston so that at riding hight the rig sits with the shocks looking approximately 75% compressed. And do this for all four corners.
I used the stock inner fender mounts. I did have to find some different rod end inserts for the top and then used a rubber O-ring as a spacer since it wasn't exactly the right size. Be creative and you can make it work. I do want to switch to the aftermarket shock towers eventually because they offer so many more mounting options for the upper end of the shock. I think I would even try to make them work with the inner fenders if possible.
The ones in the video are 100mm but I’d recommend 90mm. The “ lifted “ look of the longer shocks is cool but doesn’t perform as good when crawling. Plus there’s nothing to adjust if you stay with the 90mm since that’s the stock shock length.
So the shocks won't unload side hilling, but will the droop spring still allow the wheel to extend down when crawling onto an object... "flexing"... I'd actually like to make a pulley mounted to a spring that has a cable attached from one axle to the other. Essentially if both wheels are flat on the ground it will limit droop, but once one wheel compresses then the other wheel is freed to droop down and grab traction.
The forced or spring loaded droop setup like this requires the weight of the vehicle to force the flexing. As long as you use springs that are appropriate for the weight of the rig they flex just fine. However if the truck is to light it won't be able to flex much. These shocks come with a bunch of different springs though so it shouldn't be too difficult to get most rigs dialed in just the way you want. Your idea to create an active articulated suspension system is an interesting one. If you ever get it worked out let me know so I can check it out. Good luck my friend. 👍
TJsRC I’d like to rig it up to a servo so the ride height could be adjustable lol. If you follow F1 racing, the suspension they use is similar but works in the reverse fashion. When both wheels move up they push the heave spring and damper, which is the third shock that connects both wheels. When one wheel moves up and the other down the heave spring doesn’t move at all adding no extra spring or damping force. So when you hit the curbing your inner wheel moves up and the outer wheel stays the same moving the heave spring half what the inner wheel is moving drastically reducing its strength. Basically it allows for extreme spring rates for brake dive with completely different damping but also a compliant suspension that won’t force the tires to act as an undamped spring on the track. So you don’t need a pulley. An articulating pivot link with a link at each end to connect the wheel to would work but be more complicated. And a spring loaded pulley seemed easier lol.
@@valiant7357 No Not necessarily I was just experimenting with running that way. It didn’t offer any benefit but you will get people asking about it so it’s a good conversation starter.
@@TJsRC thanks for the response, I have oil in mine which gives them a little weight so maybe I'll try it. Might be a little less body roll when smashing around in 2nd gear. Thanks man. cheers
Ciao bellissimi i tuoi video... sentinper mst j3 jimny... i 90mm come andrebbero..si potranno montare..ma per farli funzionare in fool droop.come si fa...? E meglio provare prima sesa olio grazie..
To run in full droop you just leave out the spring that goes into the shock body and only have the one spring between the valve and the cap. Then add a little oil and reassemble.
Do I need to change anything if I put all 100mm front and rear on a stock scx10.2? Because my right front doesn’t drop all the way. Been messing with the shocks for a close to a month tbh. I’m new to rc too
First check to make sure there isn't something binding in the suspension by manually moving it around to check. If there's no binding and you're still not getting full extension you may need to go to a lighter strength or to a shorter one for the droop spring so it will flex easier.
@@TJsRC thank you for your response. I will try that with a shorter spring. Some say to adjust the panhard bar since I went with 100mm but i don’t understand. No UA-cam videos about it. Do you know anything about the panhard bar?
You can see if that is a problem by disconnecting the shock and seeing if the suspension will droop as far as you think it should. With the shock not connected if the axle only droops so far. The longer shocks aren't going to make it flex any further than the systems physical limitations. If you don't want to get crazy customizing it to "make it work", I'd suggest getting a set of the desert lizard shocks that are closer to the length of the stock shocks. I don't know off hand what length the 10.2 shocks are stock.
@@TJsRC oh okay got it. Yeah no wonder because the stock shocks for the 10.2 is 90mm and I bought 100 desert lizards for it. Thanks, you explain everything very well I understand it more now.
@@bige7099 Sometimes you can get away with adding longer shocks without having to modify anything else but it really depends on the truck and the design of the suspension.
Briggs Stratton if you don't compress them before sealing the end shut the shaft won't smoothly travel all the way to the bottom of the compression stroke when you are done. If you leave the shock shaft fully extended when you finish the assembly. There will be an excess pressure build up when the shock tries to compress. Usually this will prevent the shock from compressing the full length. At least this is how I think it is happening. I don't have the exact sciencey answer but Not all shocks behave like that. Some of them will still compress if you don't do this step. Those typically have a rubber bladder inside the shock cap which helps to compensate for the pressure change inside the shock as it moves. These Desert lizard shocks have no such feature therefore need to be fully compressed when sealed. I hope that helps. If anyone else reading this can explain it better please join the discussion.
@@TJsRC Well, i have to agree here, it was a bit a trick question. I have worked on some RC shocks and it had some strange behavior when they where overfilled (eg to much pressure in the shock) where they acted like a spring. I was hoping for some more science behind it. It should not do this right? I am technical but here something is going on that i can not explain.oh, forgot to say, awesome video and thanks for quick reply.
Briggs Stratton yeah it is a funny phenomenon, at least that's what I'll call it until I get the science explained better. My explanation is simply my description of what I think is happening. It's never bothered me enough to really research it properly but I'm sure there are other videos out there that may cover it in more accurate detail, I just haven't looked.
I was experimenting with running them that way, one of the reasons was I had a slow drip out of one of them and thought maybe flipping them would help, it didn't. But I like trying different things so I also did it just to see if it would matter that they were upside down and they preformed the same either way. They aren't on the truck any more, took them off for a different project and haven't gotten them put back yet. 👍
That’s correct. It was just an experiment to see if it made any difference. It did not. The only benefit is that it starts more conversations than running them the right side up. 😀
I think this was the best explanation for me IMHO. I was able to follow along very well. Obviously, the visual aspect definitely contributed. The side travel on a hill, and how the shocks react to the outward pressure was golden. Thank you 👍
Great to hear. Glad you found it useful. 👍🏻
@@TJsRC Most definitely 👍
I'm don't typically comment, but this was a great video. Especially when you demonstrate how the droop benefits you during side hill. Very cool bud 👍 👌
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I'm glad you found it useful.
Is this the ONLY benefit to droop other than looking kinda cool?
Agreed. Very good explanation of droop shock setup. Simple and straight to the point. Well done.
Appreciate that. Thank you 👍
These shocks are awesome. I just installed them on my TRX 4 They work great and I highly recommend them. It lowers the high trail and makes it a great scale crawler. Thank you for the vid. I left a shout out for you in my next vid. Just tryin to get us followers.
Thanks. Been on a hiatus from my channel for a while but I try to keep up with comments and questions. Good luck to you with your channel my friend.
@TJsRC I know What you mean. It's not easy doing these things. Thanks for the reply.
The most informative internal shock droop setup for RC. Too bad i cant push the like button 100x i can only push it 1x. God grace thank you so much!
I appreciate that, thank you. 😀👍
Awesome video! Thanks for the advice on setup! But just a note. You can take the sprint out without removing that pesky C-Clip. You just have to unthread the Bottom portion and you can disassemble from there. Much easier in my opinion than dealing with that circlip. But thank you for your suggestions! Awesome video.
Yes that method of disassembly would work great but I thought I would show the more complicated way to show it can be done. Not because I over looked the simpler solution 😉 ok I did overlook that way in my haste to record a video. Haha Glad you found the rest of it useful. 👍
Great video. Ordered my DL. They should be here by the end of the week!
Thanks. Happy new year and new RC gear.
Seriously thank you for this video. I was about to get rid of them but now I think I’ll crack them open and try them out!
Awesome. There are a lot of different ways to set them up. I hope they work good for you. 👍
Thank you brother for helping people all the way 4 years in the future lol much love
Thanks
Thank you so much! Ive been looking for these. So glad I saw this video. Thank you!
Your welcome friend. I'm glad you found it useful.
Great video. I bought a used rug and it's got these but it's sitting all funky. Gonna give it a tune now
Good luck my friend. Hope you get it all evened up. 👍🏻
Awesome info thanks, I bought these shocks wasn't understanding how it actually works. I'll be testing your setup 😎🤘
MyPassionRC- Studio XD40 Lou's RC Garage Good luck my friend. Let us know how it goes. 👍👍
Thank You for the Demonstration on these YR Desert Lizard shocks, I'm putting the 100mm on a revamping of my Enduro Trailwalker and planning on lean and droop set-up as long as they clear the steering link LOL ✌🤠👍 HFLPRCing Having Fun Laughing Playing and RCing 👍😎👍 AOAH Association of Addicted Hobbiest 🙏 SSPH Stay Safe and Play Healthy My Friend ❣️
Good luck and I hope they work good for you on that custom Enduro.
Just ordered a set as the famous axial ones gave out today. Thank you for the tips
Sounds good, what are you putting them on?
TJsRC scx10ii, can’t wait
Hey sir I greatly appreciate the video explaining these shocks, I'm going to put a link to this video in the description on my next video installing these on my rig
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
It's an old review, but is amazing. This was just what I was looking for...thanks 🙂
Glad to be helpful. Thanks for watching.
Nice info. I see you understand these springs. Alot people making videos have no clue what the smaller spring does. Subscribed!
Thanks friend. 👍
Viele Dank für das Video und die Erklärungen! Danke Danke. Ich habe alles 1:1 an meinen TRX4 umgesetzt und bin begeistert.
Glad you enjoyed it. 😁
I just got these and was gonna put them on a different build because I tried to run the softest spring to have max droop and lift and got way to much flex steer when I flex so I think I’m gonna do a little bit more playing with them before I give up thank you so much for your help you definitely got me to subscribe
Glad to help. Good luck getting them tuned to your rig my friend. 👍
Putting a set on a rig, no instructions.Thanks for your video .👍👍👍
Forrest RC Glad it was helpful. What rig are they going on?
@@TJsRC ..RedCat Rockslide
Forrest RC cool bro have fun. 👍😎
New to crawling and I’m plannyon getting these shocks, great info thank you.
I think you'll like them. Are you new to RC in general or just the crawling side of it?
I’m new to RC in general, I’m 53 and just got into it in the last month, I’ve got a Maxx, Infraction, the TRX4 kit and a Losi DB pro.
@@chrislovett87 Excellent 👍 I hope you find it enjoyable and fulfilling. There's an endless supply of helpful videos here on UA-cam to get you through any troubles you run into as you get things figured out. Good luck my friend.
Thank you, just grabbed some today and putting them on the element ecto.
👍
Hi friend!!! Good upgrade 👍🤙👍 The shock absorbers on my TRX4 release oil everywhere and I have hardly used the car 😬
AL RC Thanks. Your oil leak issue definitely isn't fun. Are you still using the stock shocks? They are usually quite good.
Yes, for now I still use them.
Maybe they put too much oil ...
AL RC Crawler You could clean them up and check all the o-rings and seals then add new oil.
Thanks for the advice friend. I'll keep it in mind. Greetings 👍
So small spring inside cylinder medium sized spring under piston got ya imma try that setup
I'm currently running the medium strength, medium length spring in the cylinder and the light strength, medium length spring under the Piston. ( I wish the springs were color coded so it was easier to differentiate between them) But play around with different setups until you find the one you like. These shocks offer a lot of versatility to set them up different ways.
@@TJsRC thanks man imma try today
👍
Awesome upgrade,thank you for the info,I tried some of the China knockoffs and they blew apart on me, so I went back to stock for now,but these look cool, I will check into them👍👍
James Swift They've been good for me so far and personally I love tinkering on this stuff. These shocks have a lot of versatility to experiment with. So I'll probably change them again in a few months just to try a different setup.
Great tip and well explained. Got yourself another subscriber 👍
Cool, thank you very much 👍
Thanks you for sharing such knowledge. Much appreciated. Would you consider a 100mm shock is an improvement over the stock 90mm ? I have a Trx4 defender and I find the defender body to be very tall. But really interested in running a 100mm shocks. Also last question what is your opinion about the piggyback desert lizard from yeah racing as well? Cheers.
I've had the 100mm on for a long time now and if I were to spend to upgrade I would go with the 90mm. The trx4 is already a high center of gravity design and the longer shocks just accentuate it. The extra flex you get isn't useful if your truck tips over. Less flex with lower CG will be much more predictable and capable on the trail. But if you just want a tall highlift looking truck and don't care about CG and crawling performance the 100mm should bolt right in. You may have to adjust pinion angles but otherwise it will work just fine if that's what you want to do. And as far as the piggyback shocks I have never used them so I don't have a qualified opinion. Considering the tiny size of these things I really don't see them having the same functionally as full size versions. They do look pretty cool and could be a good choice if you need piggyback shocks to complete the look you are going for.
Thank you, will this also stop wheel rub? Are they 100s or 110?
The shocks I used are 100mm. Where are you having wheel rub that’s causing a problem? It’s normal for there to be a little rub between the tire and part of the body when the suspension is fully compressed. But when fully compressed if that rub is significant and potentially damaging to the body you should address it. Since these shocks are 10mm longer than stock there will be less opportunities for tire rub because at full compression the tire will be further away from the body than with the stock shorter shocks. If you want to get rid of the rub altogether you can raise the body slightly until it stops. On most trucks the body mounts are adjustable. You will have to adjust the sliders the same amount so they continue to line up with the body.
Nice video bud! One of the best information rich video I’ve seen. But one question. Even with the droop your bronco seems a little bit high? Higher then stock? Got me confused 🤔
The Desert Lizard shocks are 100mm long and the stock ones are 90mm so it sits a bit higher.
@@TJsRC yes I know. But even with the droop it looks higher I mean 😜
@@Rombo-86 I may have had the body sitting higher on the body posts. That could be part of it.
Educational video. Thank you. Have you run the Desert Lizard shocks on a Gen 8? It's the Axe Edition with light kit, winch, full spare... she's pretty heavy. 9.3 lbs.
I have not but my trx4 is about ten pounds with all the gear and the battery and it still isn't heavy enough to need to use the strong springs that come with the Desert Lizard shocks, the medium ones work fine for me. I do plan to get another set of the shocks to put on our Gen 8 Axe. The stock springs are quite soft and I think running a forced droop set up would greatly improve the handling for how we use it.
@@TJsRC Thank you. At the price they are I think I'll get a set of 100mm ones ordered tonight!
@@marknickels603 Sounds good. Let me know how you like them. 👍
@@marknickels603 hay man how they working for you i got a gen 8 v2 and broke a shock
@@love_gang-ytgang Real nice. Haven't had it out much though. Allow for full soft flex while staying firm on the compression. And what's more surprising is no seeping yet!
I’m going to play around with mine. Thanks 🙏
Great 👍 information
Cool. 👍 What are you running then on?
@UC9cDfJkGnrIucM37i_nx3aw Gspeed
Cool video. I asked about these and you told me in another video you posted, it is good to see what you were saying. Thanks much!
Glad it was helpful. 👍👍
Hi,
Do those shocks mount up to the stock bronco shock towerrs?.
I know the original shock, the top parts has a longer shock eye. To eliminate play and the screw point.
P. K. They fit but they aren't the same depth so you will have to add a spacer if you want to eliminate the extra slop. I forgot to mention that in the video.
Great vid, thank you for sharing. My DL’s arrive tomorrow. I noticed you had your shockers inverted on your sweet rig. What’s the benefit there as I’ve seen others do it, too?
No benefits. Some will do it to have the heaviest part down low. Some will do it just to be different. I think one of my shocks was dripping a little oil and was seeing if being upside down would have any affect on it, it did not.
Where did you get those pivot balls? And thank for the great info/vid
The pivot balls on the shock body end were extra bits from my parts bin. I think they came out of old rod ends or broken shocks maybe. Don’t remember exactly. The ones on the shaft end were off the stock Traxxas shocks. Packs of rod ends with pivot balls are inexpensive though if you need to have different sizes. You can get a bag of them for $10 bucks or so on Amazon or your local hobby shop should have them as well. I just made do with the random bits I had on hand. I should have pointed out in the video that What exactly I had changed to mount them, sorry about that.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. You got a subscriber for this. Well done
Thanks my friend. 👍
Great video, very informative. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. 👍👍
I run full droop no springs. Literally bottomed out at all times. It keeps tires planted way better than the internal spring setup
That is definitely an option. I like to do do fast trailing with it sometimes so having a little room to soak up some bumps helps. The setup in the video is a compromise between slow crawling stability and still handling ok on the trails.
Now that this video has some age on it, do you have a more dialed in setup for the Trx4?
Unfortunately No I swapped out the Desert lizards for a cheap backup set while experimenting with putting the internal spring shocks on a different project but that didn't work and now they are on the shelf waiting to be re setup for crawling to go back in the TRX4. I just haven't gotten back to it. I do want to do another video on them. It's just down the list of video ideas aways and not likely to be very soon. From what I've been hearing lots of people are having trouble keeping oil in these things. I did have some trouble with one of mine, with only minor leaking on the rest, wasn't a big deal for me though.
@@TJsRC oil leaks? Well yes if the shocks are not made like full size shocks (With Stem) seal.
Aye Bee Well I don't really know about full size ones but most RC shocks do have a seal around the shaft it's just not always a good one. Some brands just use a small rubber O-ring. The shaft seals on these Desert lizard shocks aren't actually where they leaked for me. It was the rubber seal on the threaded cap end that screws into the main shock body.
Great video! 👍thanks from 🇨🇦 I ordered the knock offs to those. LOL!!! Hope I don’t regret that. 🍻
Glad it was useful. What are you going to be putting them on?
They’re going on a Gen8 Axe. I’ve upgraded to the 550can 3300kv motor. Also put proline 1.9 ‘Boggers’. I’ve got some nice heavy brass (outer portal housings) on it to. So I figured why not a shock upgrade? LOL!!! Thanks for the reply bud! Keep on keeping on brother! 👍
TJ, what's your thoughts on spring rate, oil weight and piston for a heavy truck.? Idk exactly the weight, but it's heavier than any other TRX I've compared to.
My truck is heavy enough to sag the stock (kit built) suspension.
Unfortunately that topic is quite subjective. And “sagging " isn't really the issue to solve unless you mean the truck is so heavy that it bottoms out the springs just sitting still. To start, any good RC shock is only going to have a couple of ways to make adjustments. A reasonable rule of thumb is to set the preload tension on the shock spring so the truck sits in approx the middle or just below (this is really up to you though) of the suspension travel. Some shocks have an adjustable collar that moves up and down to put more or less tension on the spring (more tension raises the ride height) others require you to change to stiffer or softer springs, like the ones in the above video. Once you have your ride hieght set drive it around on some typical terrains for you. You may find that one end or the other needs a bit more or less to keep the truck level. I usually find that the truck performs better with a little stiffer set up on the rear. I have one truck that requires twice the preload on just the driver side shocks or it won't sit level while under power.
Now that set of tuning was the easy part because when it comes to shock oils there are a million right answers and twice as many opinions. The simplest way to start is after watching your truck drive on the various terrains that are common for you, you ask yourself if you like how it handles or is it acting to bouncy. Then try switching to a little heavier weight oil from were it currently is. However if you're watching it and think the suspension is reacting to slow, then try a lighter weight oil. If it turns out you really love the suspension tuning stuff you can take it a step further and play around with trying different pistons, some brands of shocks come with a variety of different pistons each with more or less holes in it to change how fast the oil can push through it. I don't think thats necessary though unless you really enjoy shock tuning. This whole thing is based on how you want to see the truck drive or wether you want it to perform better over certain types of obstacles vs others. Each type of terrain might require a little different setup or like me you can go for a compromise setup that simply does good enough on a variety of terrains. I do tend to try tuning mine for what I feel is a bit more realistic because 99% of the time I'm not competing I just want to enjoy watching and driving it. All that to say the only oil weight number that matters to you is the starting point. If you can tune the stock set up to your liking the numbers are irrelevant. If you don't like it then you need to find out what weight is in your stock shocks, I think the stock TRX4 uses 30w oil but don't quote me on that. If you want to play around with the suspension order a few different weights of oil some a little thicker and thinner than what is in there now and experiment. Your truck and mine don't weigh the same and don't have the same weight bias so knowing my numbers won't help. Just fiddle with it until you get it the way you want it, then smile big. I like how heavier RC trucks drive I think it's easier to get them to look realistic vs the real light trucks. Not everyone cares about that though. Good luck getting it dialed in. Let me know what combination you end up going with. 👍👍
Just curious on why you don't just twist the spring on instead of removing the c-clamp? Save some time a trouble
simply didn't think about that option. I like that idea though. Thanks for suggesting it. 👍
I’m new to the RC hobby. I have a trx4 k5 blazer midnight edition. I will be getting 120mm dessert lizard shocks ( silver ) I was wondering what’s the best tuning you recommend from oil to springs. I do a lot of crawling and trails. Lots of side hills as well. Minimal on the mud.
First off unless you have the TRX4 that came with the large 2.2 wheels or the Traxxas lift kit my opinion is that 120mm are to long. I personally wouldn't go more than 100mm on the basic TRX4. As for oil, in a crawler using dessert lizard shocks just get a medium to lightweight oil. 25-35 weight oil is more than adequate. Oil tuning does very little in the way of measurable changes on a crawler truck. And the spring setup in the video is as good a place as any to start with.
@@TJsRC wheel size are 1.9 & and spring set up would be stiff springs ? If I recall I think you swapped out your soft springs for the stiff ones ?
@@valleymade9563 it depends on how heavy the truck is. You have to play around with it a little to figure out how you want it to sit and ride. Don't add the oil until you commit to trying a spring combo then drive it for a few batteries worth before making any changes.
Did you switch the 2 springs when you put the shocks on vertically with the housing at the top?
No I didn't because I set it up to ride right in the middle with about a 50% droop and it worked virtually the same regardless of which end was up. In a sense it doesn't matter what end you have be the top because the weight of the vehicle will still be trying to compress the shock together either way. The same spring will be supporting the weight of the truck if shock is right side up or upside down. Does that help or did I misunderstand your question?
Thanks for the tips! Very informative video 👍👍👍
Japox 33 Thanks glad you found it useful
Wow what a Great video! Really good explaining and a good free upgrade. Going to do this with my mountain shocks. But i have a problem that them dont Compress all the way down. Any idea?
When you assemble the shock you have to fully compress it as you tighten the cap down otherwise there'll be to much pressure and it won't compress properly.
@@TJsRC dont think so, they didint Compress all the way when there were no shock Oil in. They Compress half way
The springs inside could be taking up more space than expected. Something else to check is with the shock cap off make sure the shock shaft can slide it's full end to end movement. If that still doesn't work. Try removing the internal spring. Then assemble and see how it moves through both full extension and compression. If at that point it's all good then it must be the spring itself causing the binding. If that is the case try a different spring if you have one.
@@TJsRCthanks for answer. I have mountain shocks. They are cheap so could be that case. But i Will try youre video idea and see how they work then
Good luck figuring it out. Just takes some trail and error some times.👍👍
Just got these shocks for my Trx 4. Do you find you like the 50/50 set up you did? Also how do you feel about 30 weight oil in them? It’s what I have at the moment, just wondering what your opinion is I’m very new to this.
Great video also super helpful on how to get these installed!
The 50/50 setup is good for all around driving. If you do mostly slow crawling you may want it to sit lower with a 75/25 or even full droop. 30wt oil is fine. For slower crawling and trailing the oil WT is less important than the spring choice IMO. If you're going to be blasting the truck fast the oil WT becomes more important to how the suspension reacts to the bumps.
@@TJsRC awesome thanks very much. A lot of people I ask questions like this and they just kind of make rude comments and never answer lol. Your input is very much appreciated!
I'm sorry that the community hasn't been very welcoming. I try to get back to everyone that comments on my video's, especially when they have actual questions. I am by no means an expert but try to be helpful if I can. 👍👍
@@TJsRC can I ask how you installed these with the inner fenders?
@@mikebudkey7068 I used the pivot ball from the stock shock. To keep the desert lizard shock from rattling off the stock pivot ball I used an extra rubber o-ring as a spacer on one side of the pivot ball when I installed it. Let me know if that isn’t clear enough and I’ll try to find a video clip showing it for you. 👍
Thanks for the info. I have a 90mm set on order for an scxii crawler do you find they leak less in the shaft up shock body down like you have yours oriented? Also, can you try different spring combos without oil in the shocks to make the process less of a mess?
The leak I experienced didn't change when the shock was upside down. And yes you can easily test out different spring combos without the oil. The truck will just be overly bouncy without the oil in there.
I know this is one of your older videos about the desert lick shocks? In the end are they worth the money? Or just play with internal springs on the stock TRX shock ?
I know a lot of this is preference. But Generally do you know if you would buy another set? That’s a good way of putting it. Would you buy a Set today?
I don’t think I’ll buy another set of these. They are very versatile to be sure but each time you want to make an adjustments you have to disassemble the the thing and that gets old. I will probably go with a more name brand shock the next time I upgrade shocks on a rig. The stock TRX4 shocks are actually very good and you can get them in a few different lengths. I would also like to try a set of shocks from Vanquish eventually.
Great video!
I am in the process of building a Bruiser clone to run with my kids. This truck has leaf springs. I would like to keep the scale look, and not run coil overs. I read your comment about pulling them apart to make changes, so do you know of any other options?
Mine will be trail/crawler, I don't mind shock tuning either.
God bless
Would this work on the piggyback version? I didn't know if the shock body or spring was the same size diameter. I wanted to buy the springs and try on my DL 100mm piggyback for a Capra.
I don't have any experience with the piggy back version so I really don't know.
Excellent video
Thank you
What did you use for mounting hardware in the shock eyeholes
The existing ones from the stock TRX4 shocks. You can use the entire shock rod end off the stock shock. Then at least one end will connect exactly as it comes from factory.
My question is where do you get those shocks?
They are carried by lots of places that sell RC parts. You can start by going to to Google or your favorite web search site and search for "Desert lizard shocks". You should get plenty of results. You could also try RCmart.com or Amain.com or even Amazon.com and eBay. All will likely carry the Desert lizard shocks.
Would this be a good set up for axisl scx10 ii blazer...I have sound kit on rear and light kit in body..love your videos
Joey McKenzie I don't see why not. These shocks are very tunable so just pay attention to how your rig handles and make changes accordingly if you want. If it rides way to bouncy try a heavier weight oil. If the suspension is compressing to easily try stiffer springs. If the suspension barely compresses when it's supposed to try the lighter springs. The shocks come with everything you need, except the shock oil, to experiment with all kinds of different setups so don't be afraid to play around with it. I hope that's helpful and I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. 👍
Thank you! great review!
Glad you found it useful.
I wonder how well this will work the same way u have it but in 110mm shock on the trx4 lift kit the 50/50 and weight help it stay down to ground
I have not seen the lift kit in person so I'm not sure what length shocks are useable with it. 110mm is getting quite long though. At that length even when the suspension is fully compressed the truck will still be almost an inch taller than stock. That's not to say don't do it. It's the great part about this hobby, do it your own way and see if it works. Having a forced droop setup will likely help the stability vs regular shocks. You can always swap the stock shocks back in and run it for comparison. If you're going to be lifting it that high are you planning to run some extra large tires for a more monster truck look? Or do you just want enormous amounts of travel for stock sized tires?
No if u watch someone to the lift the trx4 kit comes with 110mm shocks and suppose to use 2.2 tires but ppl take the shock adjustment out but with them been 110mm shock quite big i think running up shock set up would work great
La explicación es muy clara. Gracias.
How did you get the mount ball in the top of the shocks I can’t get them in and it’s on my trx4. Help would be appreciated
Here watch this. I made this for a friend with a similar problem. Let me know if it helps.
ua-cam.com/video/3WoYAfg771g/v-deo.html
I never knew the shocks could take oil ..I was under the impression they were oil less.....going the have to try a set ......
Running oil in the shocks help to remove the overly bouncy feel of the suspension. You want it smooth and predictable for best performance. 👍
The way tou built them, would they work the same if not mounted upside down?
In theory the shock won't care whether it's upside down. The droop function should stay the same. The ability of the oil to do it's dampening job could be affected though but it's likely unnoticeable at the small scale sizes of these trucks. Especially when slow crawling. If you were building an off-road racing RC truck you would need to be more detailed with the suspension setup.
This is just what I need for my TRX4 after I have installed long arm liftkit to drop the car down but maintain the flex. What kind of springs do you use for the droop rate? Im looking in buying the YR 110mm desert lizzard piggyback shocks for this setup
The shocks come with three different strength springs and each of those in three different lengths. In the video I used the medium length, medium tension spring for the preload and the medium length, light tension spring for the under the piston droop spring. You may need to play around with it depending on how heavy your rig is and where you want your ride height to be.
Hi, If my truck has 90mm stock how far can I extend? I see these things go up to 120mm an was wondering what I can get away with as I'm looking to get WAY more droop but also some suport to clear slightly bigger tyres. Thanx. Jonathan
It depends on what RC truck. On the TRX4 like in the video. You can put 100mm shocks on for a bit more clearance but the front end suspension will have binding and not be able to make full use of the added length. Traxxas makes a specific long travel kit for the TRX4 that allows for much more travel and hight. I don’t have that as they want to much for it for my RC budget. Other models will have different limitations but usually 100mm shocks won’t cause to many issues.
@@TJsRC thanx for the reply bud, forums say my Absima Khambra will only take up to 100mm anyway, just gotta find some in the UK stock :/
you installed the shocks upside down, would that change the spring orientation if i wanted them right side up?
No it will not change it because whether upside down or right side up the same spring will be pushing the chassis up. However there’s no good reason to run them upside down in a trail truck like this. It was a failed experiment and I forgot to put them back upright before I filmed the video. It has certainly sparked a lot of comments though 😁
How was u able to fit the trx4 ball join on the top of the lizard shocks ? Did u have to drill the hole bigger?
Nick Lewis I didn't use the stock TRX4 balls I used some extras that I had in my parts bin. You could use the yeah racing ones and just make spacers to fill the gaps so they don't rattle around.
Where did you get an e-clip that small? Asking for a friend........
Traxxas makes a misc clips pack part number TRA1633 that has plenty of extras for when your "friend" drops one under the bench. Here's an Amazon link or you can search the PN on any website that sells replacement Traxxas rc parts.
Traxxas 1633 E-Clip, C-Clip, Snap R Ring, 40-Piece, 777-Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6J56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6KJAYXVV6PQWA5Z52AS2
Great video, good explanation....i was thinking of just putting the small spring above the ring and nothing on the bottom, so the rig can sit even lower, have you tried this? Thank you !!
Donald Guadagnolo I have not tried that specific setup but if it's for a slow rock crawler it would probably be fine. My favorite part about these shocks is the number of different ways they can be set up. You just have to experiment to see if it will work for your driving style and the terrain you like to go on. If while driving with the short spring in there you find that it flexes to fast or the body roll is still to much then move up to the medium length one. You'll get it setup the way you like it just takes a little time. Good luck getting it dialed in. 👍👍
@@TJsRC Sound good, I will definitely try many option, Thanks !!
Hello I'm running a redcat gen 7 with the 90 mm lizards. I'm getting a ton of rear bounce and my shocks don't want to return to normal after any flex without throttle. I have been trying it with spring only no oil. Would oil improve the return performance and reduce bounce? Sorry I'm a newb
Are you running them in a droop setup with a spring above and below the valve in the shock? Also when you say running without oil, is it bone dry inside the shock body? Running no oil isn’t bad but you still need a good coat or film of oil on the inside and all the moving parts or binding from being to dry can occur.
Great video buddy iv got the trx4 defender and was looking at these how are u finding them cheers
Anything rc My experience so far has been mostly positive except when I take the rig in extreme cold then a couple of them leak. I have different o-rings to try I just haven't gotten around to it.
TJsRC thanks for getting back to me think I’ll give them a go I live in the uk and it doesn’t get that cold here but when it does I don’t go out that much anyway lol I do like the look of them as well cheers
Anything rc Awesome. Good luck my friend.
Its easier to remove the plastic end hoop instead of the c clip.
Yes it is. But I went with demonstrating the hardest way to do it. Purely for science and educational purposes though not because It didn’t occur to me until after I started making the video 😉.
So can you get a little bit of lift outta this setup if you run one of the taller springs? Looking to get alittle more outta my trx4 blazer so I can run 2.2s??
Technically yes but if your TRX4 has lockers you have to be mindful of the locker cables, there isn’t much extra play with those stock cables when you start lifting. It’s very easy to overlook and be over extending the downwards flex of the suspension and have to much stress on that cable. This was at least the case on my TRX4 but I have one of the first ones. Maybe they’ve got longer ones now because Traxxas sell lift kits for them and you can even get them pre lifted with the 2.2 tires.
@@TJsRC yeah I have the trx4 sport and the trx4 f150 high trail. Just picked up a trx4 k5 blazer and was thinking about doing this. I know they make longer cables so maybe I'll go that route
Do you reakon I could use this with 110mm?
It depends on what RC you have. 110mm will be way to long for a TRX4 like mine in the video.
What are the pivot ball heads that you used?
It’s been a couple years now but I think I used the pivot balls from the original TRX4 shocks.
What mounting hardware did you use to mount the shocks into the shock towers? I purchased these shocks but I'm not able to mount them.
The pivot ball they come with for the top of the shock body should work it will just need a small spacer of some kind so that the shock body doesn't slide off the pivot ball. I had extra pivot balls lying around from some old shocks that were wider and I used those. For the bottom rod end I swapped out the end that came on the shocks for the stock Traxxas shock ends. Does this help? What is preventing yours from working?
@@TJsRC Thanks for the info. I'll swap out the ends and try and find some kind of spacer.
I had thought somehow you used the pivots that were on the original shocks.
Norbert Jillich Good luck and let me know what you end up using to make it work. 👍
Nice good job my friend 👍
👍
Did you use the trx4 upper and lower metal eyelets to installed these shocks? How are they holding up?
I had some extra ones in my parts bin that I used. I believe the ones that come with the shocks could work if you used spacers of some kind. One option is to take the whole rod end off the shaft of the TRX4 shock and put it on the desert lizard one then at least one end of each shock has a factory look. As for the top of the desert lizards get creative and make it work. Try making the ball out of the cap for the TRX4 shock work, might take a little work and if it feels to loose put a rubber o-ring on each side of the ball and it shouldn’t rattle around. As for holding up they did fine, only a little leakage until I ran them in bitter cold then a few of them gave up all their oil. I don’t think the cap o-rings in them like freezing temps. So they are currently awaiting a rebuild in my parts box.
@@TJsRC ok thank you.
You are a legend
Which size did you order, and is that the length when pulled out completely or in resting position?
At the moment, I'm running 90mm Gmade G-Transition shocks that are 120mm in length when pulled out completely, and I don't know if to buy the 100mm YR Shocks, because they could be either longer or shorter than mine.
I'd be really happy about a reply from your side!
Boss Shock lengths are usually measured eye to eye at full extention. The ones in this video are 100mm. The stock trx4 shocks are 90mm. Are you putting them on a TRX4 as well?
@@TJsRC no, I want to use them on my MST CMX, and the 90mm G-Transition by Gmade are a bit short, so the wheels are touching the body in the back. But if your shocks measure 100mm at full extension, I have to look for another solution. But thanks for your answer
I know that 100mm shocks seem very long for a CMX, but they do fit. For a picture check my insta: diego._.rccars
Boss I believe the yeah racing shocks come in different lengths if you want to try them. Are you not liking the G made ones?
Thanks for your help!!
Glad you enjoyed it my friend. 👍
Been looking at these for a while, would they be good for a axial wraith 2.2? It weighs just over 3.5kg
I think it would be fine. 👍
Can you link the ones you got pls and do they come with the shock oil
Here’s the link for similar ones. And they do not come with oil in them.
Yeah Racing 100mm Desert Lizard Two Stage Internal Spring Damper Pair Black for Crawler www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8G8ND7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_14P2FBNZJGKDXCEZ92BX
@@TJsRC Do you mind if you can link the oil you run in the shocks please.
@@bestrockmetalinaustralia1588 I like to play around with different weights of oil but 30wt is a good middle ground to start with.
Team Associated 5422 30 Weight Silicone Shock Oil, 2-Ounce www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZSRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_36N22W09CPG514ZM0YY4
@@TJsRC Thanks all this is very helpful👍
@@TJsRC Just one quick question when you order the shocks do they come with a whole set or just two shocks
So what setup, spring, oil would you recommend for competition crawling?
That’s a hard call because it really depends on a number of factors. Also note that all my crawling experience is from non competition crawling by myself or with friends. However this is what I think would be a good place to start. For slow crawling though I would say a great place to start would be a 75/25 droop setup with spring strength determined by how heavy the truck is. If one corner falls into a hole you want those springs strong enough to prevent it from nose diving in with the dropping tire but not so stiff that there’s no flex. And the oil weight has very little influence when you’re going so slow unless the oil is overly thick that will slow the suspension reaction to much so in my opinion so just use whatever you extra of in the 20-45 weight range. Then take note how it handles and make adjustments later based what you saw/felt as you were driving through the obstacles.
@@TJsRC what do you mean by 75/25? 75% droop in front? 25 in back?
@@gregoryduvall4758 I’m referring to inside the shock. what I mean is longer springs on the droop side of the piston and short spring above the piston so that at riding hight the rig sits with the shocks looking approximately 75% compressed. And do this for all four corners.
Did you still have the inner fenders installed or did you have to remove them and use stock trx4 shock towers or a aftermarket?
I used the stock inner fender mounts. I did have to find some different rod end inserts for the top and then used a rubber O-ring as a spacer since it wasn't exactly the right size. Be creative and you can make it work. I do want to switch to the aftermarket shock towers eventually because they offer so many more mounting options for the upper end of the shock. I think I would even try to make them work with the inner fenders if possible.
@@TJsRC ok cool thanks i have the 8080 on my sport and was looking these shocks but i want to keep my inner fenders i like the look
@@Iammasterkush totally agree there. The inner fenders really make the realistic look come alive.
Great vid. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it my friend. 👍
Great video
Thanks!
what size are those shocks? And which size should i get for my trx4 if i got them?
The ones in the video are 100mm but I’d recommend 90mm. The “ lifted “ look of the longer shocks is cool but doesn’t perform as good when crawling. Plus there’s nothing to adjust if you stay with the 90mm since that’s the stock shock length.
@@TJsRC ok thanks
Nice informative video 👍🏻
Thanks friend👍
Thanks for the video!! I just subscribed because of this video specifically.. lol
Mark and Cindy Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful. 👍
What length DL shocks did you use?
These are 100mm. 👍
So the shocks won't unload side hilling, but will the droop spring still allow the wheel to extend down when crawling onto an object... "flexing"... I'd actually like to make a pulley mounted to a spring that has a cable attached from one axle to the other. Essentially if both wheels are flat on the ground it will limit droop, but once one wheel compresses then the other wheel is freed to droop down and grab traction.
The forced or spring loaded droop setup like this requires the weight of the vehicle to force the flexing. As long as you use springs that are appropriate for the weight of the rig they flex just fine. However if the truck is to light it won't be able to flex much. These shocks come with a bunch of different springs though so it shouldn't be too difficult to get most rigs dialed in just the way you want. Your idea to create an active articulated suspension system is an interesting one. If you ever get it worked out let me know so I can check it out. Good luck my friend. 👍
TJsRC I’d like to rig it up to a servo so the ride height could be adjustable lol.
If you follow F1 racing, the suspension they use is similar but works in the reverse fashion. When both wheels move up they push the heave spring and damper, which is the third shock that connects both wheels. When one wheel moves up and the other down the heave spring doesn’t move at all adding no extra spring or damping force. So when you hit the curbing your inner wheel moves up and the outer wheel stays the same moving the heave spring half what the inner wheel is moving drastically reducing its strength.
Basically it allows for extreme spring rates for brake dive with completely different damping but also a compliant suspension that won’t force the tires to act as an undamped spring on the track.
So you don’t need a pulley. An articulating pivot link with a link at each end to connect the wheel to would work but be more complicated. And a spring loaded pulley seemed easier lol.
Is it better to mount the shocks upside down?
@@valiant7357 No Not necessarily I was just experimenting with running that way. It didn’t offer any benefit but you will get people asking about it so it’s a good conversation starter.
@@TJsRC thanks for the response, I have oil in mine which gives them a little weight so maybe I'll try it. Might be a little less body roll when smashing around in 2nd gear. Thanks man. cheers
Ciao bellissimi i tuoi video... sentinper mst j3 jimny... i 90mm come andrebbero..si potranno montare..ma per farli funzionare in fool droop.come si fa...? E meglio provare prima sesa olio grazie..
To run in full droop you just leave out the spring that goes into the shock body and only have the one spring between the valve and the cap. Then add a little oil and reassemble.
@@TJsRC thank you💪🏾
how thick are piston rods on this shocks?
The shock shafts are 3.5mm diameter.
Do I need to change anything if I put all 100mm front and rear on a stock scx10.2?
Because my right front doesn’t drop all the way. Been messing with the shocks for a close to a month tbh. I’m new to rc too
First check to make sure there isn't something binding in the suspension by manually moving it around to check. If there's no binding and you're still not getting full extension you may need to go to a lighter strength or to a shorter one for the droop spring so it will flex easier.
@@TJsRC thank you for your response. I will try that with a shorter spring. Some say to adjust the panhard bar since I went with 100mm but i don’t understand. No UA-cam videos about it. Do you know anything about the panhard bar?
You can see if that is a problem by disconnecting the shock and seeing if the suspension will droop as far as you think it should. With the shock not connected if the axle only droops so far. The longer shocks aren't going to make it flex any further than the systems physical limitations. If you don't want to get crazy customizing it to "make it work", I'd suggest getting a set of the desert lizard shocks that are closer to the length of the stock shocks. I don't know off hand what length the 10.2 shocks are stock.
@@TJsRC oh okay got it. Yeah no wonder because the stock shocks for the 10.2 is 90mm and I bought 100 desert lizards for it. Thanks, you explain everything very well I understand it more now.
@@bige7099 Sometimes you can get away with adding longer shocks without having to modify anything else but it really depends on the truck and the design of the suspension.
why did you compress the shock before closing?
Briggs Stratton if you don't compress them before sealing the end shut the shaft won't smoothly travel all the way to the bottom of the compression stroke when you are done. If you leave the shock shaft fully extended when you finish the assembly. There will be an excess pressure build up when the shock tries to compress. Usually this will prevent the shock from compressing the full length. At least this is how I think it is happening. I don't have the exact sciencey answer but Not all shocks behave like that. Some of them will still compress if you don't do this step. Those typically have a rubber bladder inside the shock cap which helps to compensate for the pressure change inside the shock as it moves. These Desert lizard shocks have no such feature therefore need to be fully compressed when sealed. I hope that helps. If anyone else reading this can explain it better please join the discussion.
@@TJsRC Well, i have to agree here, it was a bit a trick question. I have worked on some RC shocks and it had some strange behavior when they where overfilled (eg to much pressure in the shock) where they acted like a spring. I was hoping for some more science behind it. It should not do this right? I am technical but here something is going on that i can not explain.oh, forgot to say, awesome video and thanks for quick reply.
Briggs Stratton yeah it is a funny phenomenon, at least that's what I'll call it until I get the science explained better. My explanation is simply my description of what I think is happening. It's never bothered me enough to really research it properly but I'm sure there are other videos out there that may cover it in more accurate detail, I just haven't looked.
Do these come with the springs?
Yes, they come with a bunch of spring options in different lengths and stiffness rates.
which uniballs are you using ?
I used the ones that were on the shocks I took off.
Why mount them upside down though?
I was experimenting with running them that way, one of the reasons was I had a slow drip out of one of them and thought maybe flipping them would help, it didn't. But I like trying different things so I also did it just to see if it would matter that they were upside down and they preformed the same either way. They aren't on the truck any more, took them off for a different project and haven't gotten them put back yet. 👍
You install them upside down?
That’s correct. It was just an experiment to see if it made any difference. It did not. The only benefit is that it starts more conversations than running them the right side up. 😀
@@TJsRC I’ve watched this video at least 40 times!! My Dessert Eagle shocks come in soon. Thanks so much!!!
@@decepticonkrew8431 Wow that’s a lot. Thanks for watching. I hope once those shocks come in that they go together smooth and work great for you. 👍
Aren't the shocks upside down...?
In this video yes they are. No particular reason to do it really. Just experimenting at the time and it sparked lots of comments. 👍
You don't have to take the C-clip off. Just unscrew the black part at the end, slide the red piece off and wala!
You're right that is another way to get it done. Not sure why I did it the harder way but I did. 🤪👍
The seals will get beat up by the threads on the shaft, e-clip is the least damaging.
Make sure you use shock pliers or a small towel to keep from damaging the shock shaft. Any little burrs will shred o-rings and leak.