2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement (Part 2) -EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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Here's part 2 of the Sonoma Engine replacement series. In this video we finish removing the engine from the chassis. There were a few snags but we overcame them and in the end we remove the engine. The exhaust was a real pain that took a lot longer than what was shown in the video. If I were to do it again I would have taken both engine mounts off to help gain access to the bell housing bolts. I talk about that more later in the series. In the end, the engine comes out. Ryan would be happy I'm sure.
Link to Part 1 in case you missed it: • 2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L E...
Link to Part 3:
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ETCG
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Brother Eric, Thank you again. I am doing one today on a 1998 automatic. I am grateful for you taking time to create videos. The world is a better place. Sorry for your loss.
I've never done a Sonoma engine, but I will remember the difficulties you encountered here with the 4 cylinder. I imagine the 6 must be a riot. Thanks Eric.
Eric, I am glad (not really) that you are having the same problems with vehicles that myself and everyone else has. It just makes me feel like I am not the only one when I hear it from a mechanic.
I did a head gasket job on a 2.2 gmc sonoma, had a good 4 days under it, and then found out the timing chain and tensioner was dead, oh so much fun on these gm products
Great videos, really shows the length a mechanic has to go to when doing this type of work. Respect :)
Good video series, but one thing I don't understand: why did you bother to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold? Since the manifold has to come off of the engine anyways, I leave the entire exhaust connected and just unbolt the manifold from the engine and pull it back an inch or two.
Just makes it easier for clearance.
Gear wrenches and penetrating fluid works great for exhaust manifold bolts, once you break torque that is.
The glory of GM, "Building frustration and strife in our vehicles since 1975"
Wonder how this truck is now in 2019?
I can see where a lot of effort goes into creating and editing a video like this. Hats off to ETCG for this, and other things.
watching your videos makes me appreciate the lifts we have at my job. I hate working on my back.
just change my engine I my S10 this video really helped
I've been watching your videos for some time now and I'm now replacing my first engine. I've pulled transmissions for a clutch. It's on a 1998 volkswagen passat. 1.8 turbo. I'm glad it's a small engine because I had to lift it out by hand. I'm going to be installing the new engine in the next few days. I've placed as many fasteners back in there place as I can. I feel a little overwhelmed but I still have my fingers crossed. Thanks for the videos.
For your first motor that's a hell of a car to start on
I'm so glad I live in a minimal rust zone! It makes swinging iron so much easier.
Nice job. For a minute there I thought the vid was going to end right before you were ready to lift the engine!!
We did the same swap on a 2000 S-10; It was much easier to take the wiring harness off the fuse block and lay the harness back from over the engine. Three 10 mm bolts held the fuse block in place, one 10 mm electrical connector at the front, one 7 mm bolt to remove that section of harness from the fuse block. Also, it was MUCH easier to access the bolts and electrical connectors low on the passenger side from the wheel wells with the tires removed.
Did you pulled the engine with transmission?
Im currently pulling out a 2.2 on my manual transmission s10. Thanks
White or natural shoe polish paste (the kind that come in a tin can) works wonders on exhaust hardware. Step (1) heat as shown in video. Step (2) apply paste to the threaded side of hardware (the paste will be drawn into the heated area like water to a dry sponge). Step (3) (most important) gently but firmly, start working the fastener back and forth. (Never try to turn it straight out) Repeat steps 1,2 and 3 as needed. This is an old machine shop trick I picked up years ago...it works!
GM engines are such a pain in the ass to remove. It's easier to drop the whole subframe and take things off of it than remove them the traditional way. It's so bad that LS1 swaps out of F-bodies use this method exclusively.
I wonder which would be faster: to stop and read a manual on the engine removal for that particular model, or to guess, think, experiment, try and then try again like Eric is doing?
Thanks for the upload Eric. Also why does it need the engine replacing? What is wrong with the engine?
Thank you for posting this video! I'm currently wrapping up a v8 swap into a '90 s10 blazer and even though the engine I removed was a 4.3 and the s10 was a different generation, a lot of the issues you ran into reminds me a lot of the same issues I had. I can't even begin to count the number of times I encountered fits of tourettes over mis-matched fasteners on the same bracket. Either way good memories and good comments. Keep up the good work!
Part 2: 7:00. I soaked the exhaust bolts with WD-40, I mean soaked, waited overnight, and those bolts slid out. They had a fair amount of rust on them. It worked for me. :) BTW, Eric is the definitive guide for everything auto. :)
A lot of shops don't have oxyacetylene, but there are situations where having it makes all the difference. I don't use my torch very often but when I do it's a very useful device. Recently I saw an ad for an inductive heating device, which would probably be safer and maybe more localized. But the cost is about the same.
that's gratifying to see. I'm doing a 94 s-10 and mirroring your steps. kudos for your patience dude. you must be a dad.
When he started to pull the engine, I thought "OH SHIT, he never unbolted the torque converter" then I remembered that it was a manual transmission.
That is a bitch of a job to do on the ground. No money would make a job like that worthwhile..but good on you for doing it..
Great job Eric. Love watching your vids and every time I see more of your vids, just makes me wish I was working at a shop. Hopefully the new engine will go in a lot easier for you. As always, can't wait to see more progress on this project.
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Great videos! Very informative! This looks like a ball ache without concentrating on recording!
Eric, you probably know but you can shim the starter before installing the new engine for GM engines. Saves so much time later then trying to do it in the tight spaces as you install the starter.
I worked for an engine shop with no hoist and I pulled engines from muscle cars and pickup trucks with them on the ground, i could bet i can pull one faster on the ground then on a hoist, you learn tricks after a while
Boy all that you had to go trough to get that engine out, I figure it would have been easier to remove the cab.
Soooo much better than the Lord of the Rings trilogy! This will be a trilogy right? I can't wait for number 3 to come out and see how it all ends!
I would have got very frustrated half way into this project, very difficult to be patient, especially when you have to twist invisible things out with these normal wrenches, god I hate that!
You are the best example of a man who can control his emotions Eric, keep it up Mr Teacher! =D
Just as I was about to head to bed you come through with the goods Eric! I think this is great what you are doing for your family friends. Take in every minute of it, this would be a very special engine swap. :)
just a thought. ever think of what your neighbours might be thinking " theres poor old eric in hes shop talking to him self again"
Getting around bad engineering is half of what being a good mechanic is about. Without those hiccups, any person that is willing to get dirty would be able to change parts. Also, @MrEbusinessexpress, you should take a look at new Hondas. I don't touch them with a ten foot pole.
the size of the air tools often make it more difficult to get in to tight locations. It's often easier and less of a head ache to use the hand tools.
10:27 rebuilding my 99 Chevy s10 and let me tell you something I had to use a sawzall to get through the studs of the exhaust manifold. That's where I'm at with the project just ordered a new front pipe and keeping it going...love this S10 even though it's a 4 cylinder it's still my baby and she's in red❤
Like your work Eric. God job.
Wished I had more sucess with my job today. waisted 3 hours on replacing control arm bushings and I still have a knocking sounds :-(
You're swapping out that 2.2 for an LS3 riiight? Haha
47min of ETCG! That's what i call friday :)
Did u do a video of putting the motor back in or the new motor.
Can't Wait for part 8!
The mini cooler is usually an oil cooler. In most automatics, the transmission cooler is integrated to the lower part of the factory radiator.
This particular job is a lot less strenuous if you pull the transmission with the engine. If you do not have swivel impact sockets....good luck, I will be praying for you.
i have the same 2.2l engine, an s10, equal miles and I found this wire with a green cap midway through it left unplugged with that connector you were holding in your hand at 45:46. I need to know where it goes and what to plug it back into. Funky smell wafting through the air when my truck is running. Unburnt fuel vapors in the air? Stinks! I did notice you had the engine up on a hoist and it was below the air intake and behind the alternator, so, ive got somewhere to start..
The corrosion on the bell housing steel bolts going into the aluminium bell housing is "dissimilar metal" corrosion. A real pain.
I can't wait for pt 3! I'm reliving my engine replacement all over again! Mine was exactly the same except for the AIR. The "Engineers" at GM (General Malfunctions) seem to have designed this truck ((4cyl model) without rhyme or reason. But once its together, it's not too bad. Asian small trucks are better,but for what I paid for mine and the cost to put it back right,I ain't complaining! Compared to Asian trucks, parts are dirt cheap!
Those exhaust bolts...
Man, I don't fancy my chances with a torch in a space as tight as that...
Even without that, didn't look easy.
I have found that air tool oil works well, just after you heat it up, hit it with some air tool oil. because its a really light oil, it gets in everywhere, maybe even better than penetrating oil.
Also I found when pulling the motor on my 83 S10, removing the front tires and lowering the front end down allowed for a ton of clearance for me. not that it makes much difference now. but a good future tip. :D
I like how you attack difficult, or should I say (hard to reach) tasks first. 👍🏻
So glad you stopped putting the intro music at the beginning of the video's.
I'm doing a swap on a 00 sonoma.
textbook eric! great job. ill be pulling the motor in my jeep soon and this has given me some tips
I didnt see you take off the fuel line from the back of the fuel regulator I found that was the only thing holding the engine in place lol
good morning Eric!
Part 1's length 40:45 + part 2's length of 47:30 = 88 minutes 15 seconds to remove the engine. Less than 90 minutes, not Nascar speed, but still impressive nonetheless.
Warranty book time must be less than 4 hours.
Good job Eric.
;-)
Eric, you must have a back of steel or a great medicine cabinet and a hot tub!! lol take care, Rog
The 2.8 is the same way. You need to come in through the wheel well to get to the bolts. 2 cans of Penetrating oil and a whole lot of cuss words later, I got them off. Just glad I had ratcheting box end wenches when I did it.. that made it easier.
thanks for part 2,I was wondering how it all turned out.
On average, how much does the recording add to a procedure? It seems like moving the camera around would add quite a bit of time. Really appreciate it man.
If I'm not mistaken, it overheated.
Keep this coming! Enjoying the videos.
great job: pulling that motor out. That is so hard to do by yourself. I can imagine the problems you went through. Which I would love to see. Reason why I say that, it's because all I had to do was change the transmission fluid and filter, I ran into a small but big problem . One of the fasteners, snap off. Which left the threaded piece inside. So you can imagine what I had to go through underneath the car, and on top of this we had a massive rainstorm, but anyway great video thanks
Wow that took some time and effort! The layout of things connected to it is just a mess.
the best video series you eveer done :D
Not quite been doing it for 10 years, the reason being the lift goes up and down 50 times to reach something from the bottom then the top the from the bottom again it takes more time to lift and lower the car .. and when you work on diesel trucks with 4x4 to pull an engine its impossible to reach anything from undernearth anyways
Wondering if removing the cab would've made a difference?? I'm thinking probably. Of course that would involve the use of a lift, too.
thank you man your video really help :) and thanks to the guy who receomended for the troubleiwas having
Who else really wanted to hear Eric say, "and there's our prize" at the end?
Can't Wait for part 3!
It isnt electrolysis when steel and aluminum fasteners put together corrode, it is called galvanitic corrosion.
if you dont get the electrics wet yes, but make sure to dry up any electrics and areas near the electrics
Eric... A damn good job buddy can't wait to see the next part :) I'm going to be dropping a Chevy 350 in my Camaro soon :)
I wanna goto uti, so my question to you eric is, are they a good school? Is there a better school to goto? About how much will i have to spend on tools before hand? And thanks for making these vids you really made me wanna pursue a education in automotive whatever you wanna call it
Eric you did an excellent job of editing out all of the cuss words!
I have one of these looks hard it's a good truck with 300 k I could pull a Subaru motor in a hour or so all cars should that easy I feel for Eric the struggle continues
Dion Tenorio 2.2?
I find it much easier to disconnect the wiring harness at the ecu and take entire harness out with the engine! Much easier to swap harness on engine stand! #staydirtyetcg
Here's an old school cheat for removing stuck fasteners like Chevy exhaust bolts. After you get them good and hot take a cheap candle and push the wax onto the threads while the metal is hot and expanded the paraffin wax will chase down the threads and work just like a perfect lubricant and you will be able to get your fastener off. I work on boat motors for living and I probably can get off 98 to 99% of stuck and corroded fasteners using this method.
Good video !
A lot of tools and time to to this job. I better to pay to get the job done.But I know how an engine swap should be done. An engine still an engine.
I was waiting for this. ....
long awaited tks bud
Great video Eric.. How come you don't use you're power tool when it comes to this?
I don't think eric wants to waste our time putting plugs for all his tools in each of his video's. :P
Do you think Inconvenient nuts and bolts equal bad engineering?? Well if you do than you don't deserve to work on things
It's not bad engineering because they don't expect anyone to change the engine every year, mr. civic.
old seatbelt is so much easier to work with than chain and will hold 2 or 3 of those engines no problem.
great work, cant wait for next part.
Hi Eric, will it be a part 3 or 4? Can't wait to see them!
Maybe you could have twisted the chain on the engine hoist to shorten it instead of moving the hooks?
hey eric.. i have a question that has been bugging me and maybe it might be an idea for a quick video in the future..HHO systems. do they work? or is it snake oil? and how does it operate? what is your opinion of them?
1 bolt that fits through chain, 2 washers, 1 nut. Shorten chain where you want it.
Hello Eric im going to be installing a 2.2 liter engine , I did purchase an engine from orileys, what are your thoughts on this engine or if you have heard of these engine long blocks ? Power torque engine long blocks
great detailed vid, is part 3 gonna be re-install?
Nah, it's just
Shaking
My
Head.
You can see it took about 10 hours to get this engine out. Many edits because of frustration and Eric's UA-cam channel is PG. I have worked for 5 years for GM and although he wanted to take the easy way out with several steps, that just caused more time to do it that way. I hope he takes the wiring harness out, and reconnects things outside of the car. It's most likely much less frustrating that way. Transmission is model by model, as far as faster/better.
I've always found it easier to pull the harness with the engine. Just disconnect at PcM
GM goes batsh__ crazy with loctite on fasteners.
harbor freight bolt extractor ftw! got the rusted bolts out of dads ford ranger 97 easily, just pick the close size hammer it in place and voila!
wangbungal I see that you commented three years ago, and you probably won't see this, but I thought a give it a shot. Unfortunately my 94 4 L ford ranger engine broke rings and pistons number two. I'm not about to rebuild it so I need to replace it. I'm very mechanically inclined but have never removed mentioned before. Do you think I should remove the transmission with the engine? Or unbolted from the bell housing and just remove the engine? Which ones easier? Thank you if you see this LOL
another great etcg video