I used to deal with this issue a bit, an easy, or easier trick is to contact the company and see if there is an updated Electronic defrost control on your model … on this band they had an issue called defrost short cycling and I have removed and replaced several defrost controls in the past this overall should fix the issue however some of the other people’s repairs could also. The fact that after a defrost you still have ice in that area says there is more of an issue than it seems. It could also be a dual problem between the control and bimetal or defrost termination thermostat and they may both be faulty, one other possibility is there may be a different bimetal that has a different range of temperatures from the company. Just thought I would throw this information to ya hope whatever you have come up with works or you can try try again a different way just putting out some more info to ya. Keep it cool!
The company "Samsung" will not acknowlege there is a problem. Despite many customers compalints. LG is going through the same thing. The sharing of two evaporaters with one compressor was the mistake. If they had to recall that would be millions of dollars of loss. So just ignore the issue, but lose a potential customer. The average lifespan of an appliance is 7 years now. I have kept this junk piece of crap for about that and replacing it soon. Hope the next one is better.
My own update on this same repair..it still works ok. No icing up in evap area. I checked it six months in. I was ready to junk this fridge but we’re good I think.. never again Samsung! Btw the door flap is busted now but I saw a video and should be easy to fix for less than $20
I had the same problem. I just wrapped pipe insulation around the top right refrigerant lines and zip tied them in place and that solved the problem. If your getting water in the tray, it's might be a blocked drain nipple in lower back of the fridge.
Update September 2023: I did this same mod on my Samsung fridge in October 2022 (11 months ago) and it solved the problem, but not perfectly. The main issue is fixed, that is, the frost over top of the evaporator no longer forms.🤙..however I do have an occasional (3x in 11 months) pooling of water under the bins in the fridge part which freezes into thin sheets. I clean it out in 5 minutes. It’s a minor nuisance to me but not everyone will be able to deal with it. I’ve adjusted the bottom part of the aluminum evap backing to try to divert all the falling condensation water but somehow a small amount occasionally drips into the fridge compartment instead of the drain hole. Still working on this issue. But the Samsung is now acceptably functional. I miss my old Kenmore!
You do know the real issue is just the black insulation covering the sensor. There’s a reason it lasted average 7 years without issue and doesn’t come from factory that way. Buy the $12 sensor and clear black insulation. I do one of these calls twice a week
When I fixed mine last year, I removed all that nasty black stuff off my sensor too. I knew nothing about fridges, but realized quickly the sensor couldn't sense jack with all that gunk around it. It froze over a year later though. Condensation is getting in somehow and I need to figure out the permanent fix.
@@cristyyokoyama7955 for me it was the seal around the inside of the panel went bad letting in air. I replaced the panel, but the cheap one I bought off ebay was not an exact fit. I had to modify the metal bracket that holds the panel and shelf in place with my dremel. Once I did that it all went back together no problem, and we haven't had ice build up again.
You may not know this but the wire used to provide power for the coil heater is a certain AWG Gauge rating which can carry so much amperage. If you attach another heater you may be trying to draw too much amperage, overheat and melt the wires or burn a relay..
where can i get this heater wire kit ,here i AU ? 240 volts ? and i dont like the "squash locks " for water cant we get something water /moistor /resistaent/ but yes i agree same prob, very good vidio .
It’s not a factory fix. But it’s safe. I did it and it works good a year later. No overheating or melted plastic. It of course uses more electricity than it did before but not much. I had a Samsung guy out who wanted $350 to repair it out of warranty. It would just keep happening without the auxiliary heater wire. It’s a bad design and the repair guys know it and admit it. It’s job security for them. The guy had not seen this fix and was impressed.
It worked fine. I had it happen once in last year. This time I removed all lower panels in back and cleaned the dust buildup in the intake vents. Didn’t happen again. After that I moved into a new house and got an LG fridge so not messing with the Samsung anymore. I would have brought the Samsung to new house but the spot for it was shallower and didn’t want fridge to stick out several inches so I got the shallow depth full size capacity LG and I love it.
@@danielguerra4447 glad to hear it worked out pretty well over time. samsung also issued a new drain kit with better drain hoses and some insulating tape to help with the blocked drainage that also contributes to bad airflow behind the panel. some fridges can really create some nasty air particles that basically turns into sludge and blocks the drains. biggest symptom of that is the water under the dwarers. samsung also changed the design of this setup in really recent models so they are finally trying to fix the problem. i think I read there is a class action lawsuit that probably helped move their butts :D
I have the same frig with ice build up after six (6) years. Question: 1: Why now? 2: What has changed? I see suggestions about an addition heater coil, but it ran for six (6) years. What is failing now? I have seen above that the entry point for coil may need to be reseated?
Wrap a copper wire around the heating element right where it runs over the drain hole and stick the other end down the drain hole a few inches. It's a bad design. That will keep the hole from freezing up. You also need to clear any clogs at the reverse flow valve, that little rubber duck-billed part at the bottom of the drain down in the rear compartment. I believe the fridge drain is the one on the farthest right when facing the back of the fridge. (There are two drains, the bottom of the freezer one is on the left facing the rear of the fridge)
Hey fibril I would like to know where you got the blue quick connectors because I need them too if you could tell me where you got them that would be great thankyou
@@tahaahmed5617 you have to force defrost the second you hear fan scrape ice. I unplugged while I installed heater wire and clips, and plugged in immediately to make sure the new heater wire got hot.
I have same problem. I’m unable to find any flexible heater coil that you used to fix the problem. Can you give me more info so I find it so I can forget I have a frig problem. Thx
I did go back and re-view the vid. I never looked at “your description” comments but read the comments from other viewers. Thx for redirecting to read your intitial post to see the links.
That's what happened to my refrigerator I had a repairman coming frosted but I can't order the part I have it put in until June I was just making sure he wouldn't sell me a lot of c*** that that would stop the problem that's why I like UA-cam you can see other people figure stuff out
You didn’t show the magnet trick on the doors? Unless you have a push switch that when the door closes that allows power to the Evap fan? You had the door or doors open when to the did the video in operation.
Keeping the doors open for prolonged time I think over-rides the switches. Because yes when I open door fan kicks off. But after having doors open for 30 mins or so and I plugged new fan in and turned off force defrost and kicked on the rapid cool function the fan worked fine with doors still open. It either times out or it was the rapid cool mode that let the fan run while doors open.
there was a class action lawsuit about. Which in my opinion is a waste of time because as a participant in the suit you end up getting like $10 after the lawyers are done.
Daniel, have you taken the cover off to see if there has been ice formation at the top since you put the Supco heater in? Also, are you getting any water under the vegetable bins? That’s a different faulty area at the bottom of the evaporator. There’s a leakage repair kit for that too..main thing being a longer heater drain clip into the drain hole. I did that upgrade and it seems to be better but still having some leakage and ice formation under the bins.
I did the longer heater clip as well. Haven’t had any issue with water or ice under vegetable bins. I am still getting ice forming around fan, but it now takes a few months until it gets loud enough to remove cover to remove ice buildup. So new heater element helped but has not completely fixed issue. I think I’m getting water (condensation) from top hole where coolant lines run. Have heard siliconing that hole completely shut should stop any excess water from getting in, so it should stop that ice from forming near fan. Plan on doing that soon with follow up video
@@danielguerra4447 I just had Samsung come out and replace the entire ice making machine, which I was going to do myself but figured I’d ask first. The old unit froze over and was useless without complete thawing out. He siliconed the interior seams, replaced a circuit board in the back, and gave me a new ice bucket. Quick enough service. They sent follow up questionnaire which I filled out saying I can’t leave good feedback yet..ask me again in six months. …I plan to ask Samsung for compensation for the fridge work I’ve done. I chatted with the service guy who was impressed I knew all about it. He didn’t know about the secondary heater fix. ..I told him after he put the ice maker in. I was afraid I’d I told him I’d done unauthorized work they’d deny any service to the unit.
@@danielguerra4447 Mine is well out of warranty. It’s about 5 years old. Call the 1800 Samsung # on the door label. I had no expectations but they were on it. They said Samsung is covering the ice machine even if out of warranty. Certain years had defective units. …I plan to call them again for some kind of compensation for the evaporator work. The service guy said if they come out and “repair” the evap problems they charge $350, and that’s without the heater upgrade which is not a sanctioned mod.
It would happen every 2 months or so. Took cover off and where the copper pipes run into the back wall of fridge there was a lot of water. That’s the water that feeds the icing near the fan. I filled the whole with silicone and it has been running fine for several months.
@@faymcclain1105 directly under the video there is a caption, which is the “description”. Says how many views etc. Touch where it says “…more” and you will see the description open on the right of the screen.
I used to deal with this issue a bit, an easy, or easier trick is to contact the company and see if there is an updated Electronic defrost control on your model … on this band they had an issue called defrost short cycling and I have removed and replaced several defrost controls in the past this overall should fix the issue however some of the other people’s repairs could also. The fact that after a defrost you still have ice in that area says there is more of an issue than it seems. It could also be a dual problem between the control and bimetal or defrost termination thermostat and they may both be faulty, one other possibility is there may be a different bimetal that has a different range of temperatures from the company. Just thought I would throw this information to ya hope whatever you have come up with works or you can try try again a different way just putting out some more info to ya. Keep it cool!
The company "Samsung" will not acknowlege there is a problem. Despite many customers compalints. LG is going through the same thing. The sharing of two evaporaters with one compressor was the mistake. If they had to recall that would be millions of dollars of loss. So just ignore the issue, but lose a potential customer. The average lifespan of an appliance is 7 years now. I have kept this junk piece of crap for about that and replacing it soon. Hope the next one is better.
My own update on this same repair..it still works ok. No icing up in evap area. I checked it six months in. I was ready to junk this fridge but we’re good I think.. never again Samsung! Btw the door flap is busted now but I saw a video and should be easy to fix for less than $20
I had the same problem. I just wrapped pipe insulation around the top right refrigerant lines and zip tied them in place and that solved the problem. If your getting water in the tray, it's might be a blocked drain nipple in lower back of the fridge.
Did you use the Gray foam Pipe insulation?
Great video demonstration and thanks for including Amazon links 👍👌 one question: did you use the 18-14 AWG Blue 100 quick splice?
Update September 2023: I did this same mod on my Samsung fridge in October 2022 (11 months ago) and it solved the problem, but not perfectly. The main issue is fixed, that is, the frost over top of the evaporator no longer forms.🤙..however I do have an occasional (3x in 11 months) pooling of water under the bins in the fridge part which freezes into thin sheets. I clean it out in 5 minutes. It’s a minor nuisance to me but not everyone will be able to deal with it. I’ve adjusted the bottom part of the aluminum evap backing to try to divert all the falling condensation water but somehow a small amount occasionally drips into the fridge compartment instead of the drain hole. Still working on this issue. But the Samsung is now acceptably functional. I miss my old Kenmore!
You will need to pull the fridge out, remove the compressor cover, find the 2 drain hoses and clear them out
DA61-06796A Clip Drain Evaporator for Sam-Sung Refrigerator Defrost Drain Clip AP5579885 by Sikawai,with Defrost Temp Sensor DA32-0006W,Refrigerator Defrost Sensor DA32-00006S
Do you think you should have sealed the blue connectors with silicone to prevent moisture from seeping in?
You problem is the positin of defrost sensor. Can it relocated from right to center where is more ice. The sensore has yellow whire.
I added a similar heating wire 2.5 years ago. It hasn't frozen up since.
Yeah it definitely helped mine out too.
You do know the real issue is just the black insulation covering the sensor. There’s a reason it lasted average 7 years without issue and doesn’t come from factory that way. Buy the $12 sensor and clear black insulation. I do one of these calls twice a week
Temp sensor? Already changed it.
I’m having a similar problem with my Samsung fridge. What is the name of the sensor? I’m trying to get this fixed myself
When I fixed mine last year, I removed all that nasty black stuff off my sensor too. I knew nothing about fridges, but realized quickly the sensor couldn't sense jack with all that gunk around it. It froze over a year later though. Condensation is getting in somehow and I need to figure out the permanent fix.
@@cristyyokoyama7955 for me it was the seal around the inside of the panel went bad letting in air. I replaced the panel, but the cheap one I bought off ebay was not an exact fit. I had to modify the metal bracket that holds the panel and shelf in place with my dremel. Once I did that it all went back together no problem, and we haven't had ice build up again.
You may not know this but the wire used to provide power for the coil heater is a certain AWG Gauge rating which can carry so much amperage.
If you attach another heater you may be trying to draw too much amperage, overheat and melt the wires or burn a relay..
Been working fine for 9 months 👍🏼
where can i get this heater wire kit ,here i AU ? 240 volts ? and i dont like the "squash locks " for water cant we get something water /moistor /resistaent/ but yes i agree same prob, very good vidio .
I can't seem to find the heater coil you used in your video description?
Hello Daniel, very helpful video! Wanna ask you if there is the same heater but for 220Volts ?
I’m not sure about 220v. But I can almost guarantee the voltage working the heater is dc but I will have to confirm this
Question: Is this a repair recommended by the factory or something you invented?
It’s not a factory fix. But it’s safe. I did it and it works good a year later. No overheating or melted plastic. It of course uses more electricity than it did before but not much. I had a Samsung guy out who wanted $350 to repair it out of warranty. It would just keep happening without the auxiliary heater wire. It’s a bad design and the repair guys know it and admit it. It’s job security for them. The guy had not seen this fix and was impressed.
Thanks i would like to know where you get the addational coil wire and fan .
@@budhramrasiawan3257 fan Amazon link is in description. The extra wire I used to wrap the heater wire was just spare wire I had sitting around.
can we maybe get an updated video on what happened a yr later after the repair ??
It worked fine. I had it happen once in last year. This time I removed all lower panels in back and cleaned the dust buildup in the intake vents. Didn’t happen again. After that I moved into a new house and got an LG fridge so not messing with the Samsung anymore. I would have brought the Samsung to new house but the spot for it was shallower and didn’t want fridge to stick out several inches so I got the shallow depth full size capacity LG and I love it.
@@danielguerra4447 glad to hear it worked out pretty well over time. samsung also issued a new drain kit with better drain hoses and some insulating tape to help with the blocked drainage that also contributes to bad airflow behind the panel. some fridges can really create some nasty air particles that basically turns into sludge and blocks the drains. biggest symptom of that is the water under the dwarers. samsung also changed the design of this setup in really recent models so they are finally trying to fix the problem. i think I read there is a class action lawsuit that probably helped move their butts :D
Would have been helpful to show heater instal
Hi, could you explain to me how to diagnose that I don't get current to the fan?
I have the same frig with ice build up after six (6) years.
Question:
1: Why now?
2: What has changed?
I see suggestions about an addition heater coil, but it ran for six (6) years. What is failing now?
I have seen above that the entry point for coil may need to be reseated?
Hello, I have same problem, I ordered the part, I’m watching the bottom drain with back open it’s freezing up at drain is that the normal?
Wrap a copper wire around the heating element right where it runs over the drain hole and stick the other end down the drain hole a few inches. It's a bad design. That will keep the hole from freezing up. You also need to clear any clogs at the reverse flow valve, that little rubber duck-billed part at the bottom of the drain down in the rear compartment. I believe the fridge drain is the one on the farthest right when facing the back of the fridge. (There are two drains, the bottom of the freezer one is on the left facing the rear of the fridge)
Where do I order the extra heater strip?
Hey fibril I would like to know where you got the blue quick connectors because I need them too if you could tell me where you got them that would be great thankyou
50PCS Solderless Quick Splice... www.amazon.com/dp/B09P13XCSV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Did you install this while fridge is still running? I dont think defrost is working all the time?
@@tahaahmed5617 you have to force defrost the second you hear fan scrape ice. I unplugged while I installed heater wire and clips, and plugged in immediately to make sure the new heater wire got hot.
I have same problem. I’m unable to find any flexible heater coil that you used to fix the problem. Can you give me more info so I find it so I can forget I have a frig problem. Thx
The link to heater is literally in the description of the video.
I did go back and re-view the vid. I never looked at “your description” comments but read the comments from other viewers. Thx for redirecting to read your intitial post to see the links.
That's what happened to my refrigerator I had a repairman coming frosted but I can't order the part I have it put in until June I was just making sure he wouldn't sell me a lot of c*** that that would stop the problem that's why I like UA-cam you can see other people figure stuff out
Not an easy fix but if you’re handy it’s doable. I did and it works good.
Take the defrost bi metal and move it to the top
9ce idea
You didn’t show the magnet trick on the doors? Unless you have a push switch that when the door closes that allows power to the Evap fan? You had the door or doors open when to the did the video in operation.
Keeping the doors open for prolonged time I think over-rides the switches. Because yes when I open door fan kicks off. But after having doors open for 30 mins or so and I plugged new fan in and turned off force defrost and kicked on the rapid cool function the fan worked fine with doors still open. It either times out or it was the rapid cool mode that let the fan run while doors open.
I have the same problem with the same refrigerator, do you think this is more common in Samsung brand?
Yes very known issue with Samsung.
there was a class action lawsuit about. Which in my opinion is a waste of time because as a participant in the suit you end up getting like $10 after the lawyers are done.
I gaurantee there was nothing wrong with the fan...next time connect the red and black wires to a nine volt battery and see if it spins!
@@chuckken3438 it had been stuck frozen a few times and was original fan. I chose to change it even though it was still working.
Remove the Styrofoam on the panel did that a year ago now it works with no ice
Daniel, have you taken the cover off to see if there has been ice formation at the top since you put the Supco heater in?
Also, are you getting any water under the vegetable bins? That’s a different faulty area at the bottom of the evaporator. There’s a leakage repair kit for that too..main thing being a longer heater drain clip into the drain hole. I did that upgrade and it seems to be better but still having some leakage and ice formation under the bins.
I did the longer heater clip as well. Haven’t had any issue with water or ice under vegetable bins. I am still getting ice forming around fan, but it now takes a few months until it gets loud enough to remove cover to remove ice buildup. So new heater element helped but has not completely fixed issue. I think I’m getting water (condensation) from top hole where coolant lines run. Have heard siliconing that hole completely shut should stop any excess water from getting in, so it should stop that ice from forming near fan. Plan on doing that soon with follow up video
@@danielguerra4447 def will check that out. Your video is possibly the best, most to the point on yt.
@@danielguerra4447 I just had Samsung come out and replace the entire ice making machine, which I was going to do myself but figured I’d ask first. The old unit froze over and was useless without complete thawing out. He siliconed the interior seams, replaced a circuit board in the back, and gave me a new ice bucket. Quick enough service. They sent follow up questionnaire which I filled out saying I can’t leave good feedback yet..ask me again in six months. …I plan to ask Samsung for compensation for the fridge work I’ve done. I chatted with the service guy who was impressed I knew all about it. He didn’t know about the secondary heater fix. ..I told him after he put the ice maker in. I was afraid I’d I told him I’d done unauthorized work they’d deny any service to the unit.
@@chilitoday how long is the warranty? 1 year or 5. Mine is about 3-4 years old. My ice maker stopped working as well for good about 6 months ago
@@danielguerra4447 Mine is well out of warranty. It’s about 5 years old. Call the 1800 Samsung # on the door label. I had no expectations but they were on it. They said Samsung is covering the ice machine even if out of warranty. Certain years had defective units. …I plan to call them again for some kind of compensation for the evaporator work. The service guy said if they come out and “repair” the evap problems they charge $350, and that’s without the heater upgrade which is not a sanctioned mod.
What is the voltage to the heater? Is it 115VAC?
Is it still working ?
It would happen every 2 months or so. Took cover off and where the copper pipes run into the back wall of fridge there was a lot of water. That’s the water that feeds the icing near the fan. I filled the whole with silicone and it has been running fine for several months.
Silicone like exterior caulk?
@@BennyHanna12 yes
Where did you order the part from ?
All parts listed on video description
Where do I find the "description "
@@faymcclain1105 directly under the video there is a caption, which is the “description”. Says how many views etc. Touch where it says “…more” and you will see the description open on the right of the screen.
Me too
this fridge is such a piece of crap, nothing but problems since ive had it
Samsung marka en boktan marka, tüm samsung ürünler pişmanlıktır.