A small tip, I’ve discovered if instead of tightening the collar on the valve stem just put it on a couple of turns. Doing that allows you to push it up out of the way enabling you to fit the tyre sans tools.
Should always finish putting the tyre on at the valve for first and second bead. Doing it the other way the valve is in the way stopping the tyre to sit down in the groove so results in less slack.
9 years road tubeless (early years were all converted rims) and only once had to put a tube in at the roadside. Average over 7k kms per year this is pretty good. Modern rims are much easier to seat the bead though!
0:38 as someone who suffered a failure to mount a gravel tyre and had to resort to a bike shop and they had to resort to "easy mount" solution + high pressure pump, it was the best part.
@@gplama I try to remember to add more every 3-5 months. I run Stans, so your results may vary. Almost all of the flats I've gotten on the road have been due to not remembering to top it up after winter... And even then, every time they've held pressure long enough to get back home. One time I went about 25km before it started bouncing on the rim. Edit: except the one time, I was riding through heavy gravel on my road bike at full steam and got a 1.5cm sidewall cut that I very much deserved. No sealant was stopping that leak.
Have switched to tubeless about 2 years now, don't even take a spare tube anymore just Stans Darts and a small 40ml container of sealant have had to use that system only twice since changing. More than happy with ride comfort and tyre wear. Cheers.
Top tip for awkward tyre install for new tyres. If the first bead is difficult to get over the rim try removing the valve core until you have both beads sitting in the central rim channel. This will give you a fraction of a mm more tyre room over the rim. Every little helps. Enjoy the ride.
Great video Shane and you made it look effortless.👏 For road I stick with race tubes and 85 / 80 psi as I don’t want to carry tubeless repair strips and two spare tubes. For gravel and MTB tyre pressures, tubeless is a no brainier.👍
I tried road tubeless for a year. Riding them was fantastic -- the ride feel was undeniably great. But getting them to seat properly, and adding sealant was night-marish. I used Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite TLR tires in 32mm width, on Reynolds AR41X DB wheels. Getting them onto the rims was really easy -- too easy. I hard a hard time getting them to seal since they fit so loosely, did all the tricks, used a compressor. Finally got them to seal after probably an hour or more. But they properly, uniformly seated and sealed. When it came time to add sealant, letting the air out of the front tire unseated the entire bead, collapsing both sides of the bead around the whole tire all at once and all the remaining sealant dumped out. Makes me wonder what would happen if I got a serious flat -- tire would come off the rim? The bead is supposed to stay seated. Anyway, then I couldn't get the front tire bead to seat again no matter what. I had to put a tube in to get the bead to seat, after that I removed the tube and one side of the bead and added sealant without the entire bead collapsing. After I got it to seal again, it leaked 15-20 PSI per day. There was not a single visible leak where I could see sealant, nor could I hear it leaking. Not at the valve, not anywhere around the bead, not at the spoke holes either. Still leaked air massively. I also checked the rim tape thoroughly later on -- it looked perfectly installed at the factory. Still leaked. I'm going back to tubes, they weren't so bad. Only 1-2 flats per year on average. I've gone entire years and 3,000 - 4,000 thousand miles without any flats. Going to try the new Schwalbe Aerothan tubes with tubed Pirelli P Zero Velo tires. I really wanted to like road tubeless, but it was really not great for me.
Hi Shane, recently took the advice of a bike mechanic and lay my conti 5000 T/L in sunlight in the garden for a couple of hours,they went on my carbon rims a lot easier.
I love tubeless for off-road because the way they feel and the low pressures that you can run. I ran tubeless on my roadbike for a year, but switched back to latex tubes with Vittoria Corsa tires. They feeling this combination gives me is way better than the TL tires I had (Schwalbe Pro one). And when I had a flat on the road, it did not always go well....
Just a quick one - looks like you're putting the tyre on from the valve to the other side (at least for the second one, didn't go back and check the other). Generally you want to finish at the valve with tubeless tyres, as you can get the maximum amount of slack by starting with the beads in the channel. That's no guarantee these tyres will go on without a tyre lever or very strong hands, but it should help.
I've been tubeless on the road and gravel bikes for about four years now - wouldn't think of going back. There can be a bit of a learning curve, which can be frustrating when you first switch over, but it gets easier all of the time. There's also maintenance - I check my sealant condition and levels every 4 to 6 weeks, depending upon the road conditions and the miles that I'm logging (many punctures can go unnoticed and you might find yourself running dry unless you check it on a schedule). FWIW, I've never needed a tire lever to get tires on, though I've only used 4 or 5 wheelsets and 8 to 10 tires of different size and manufacturer.
Shane, since ur familiar with sealant now, u shjould get back to tubulars... no mess. Punctures on road? install sealant on the road, co2 cannister, and off u go.
I went tubeless a few years ago as I use to get flats every couple of rides. No problem ever since, also welcome the smoother ride at slightly lower pressure, not going back.
2 road 2 gravel 1 e bike all tubeless, no issues for me or family only down side you need to keep an eye on pressure if you are not using the bike the do go soft in about 2/3 weeks
I moved to tubeless on all bikes earlier this year and will not go back. I have had two punctures (rear on different bikes) and they worked a charm - instantly sealed and able to get home (in fact one picture I did not realize until I saw a huge shard of metal sticking out). Interesting to see how these tyres go for the long haul. I had the tube version of the Velos and loved them.
Hey Shane, next time try starting the tire opposite the valve and ending at the valve. No risk of pinching a tube by ending at the valve with tubeless. Awesome vids
Good follow up Shane thank you. I run Schwalbe pro one's tubeless tyres with removable core tubes with sealant. Just so much glass around Christchurch I can't be arsed with flats. Still roll better than Winter tyres. Cheers.
I used the gavia fondo1 32mm on my new defy with slr1 wheels and changed them to pirelli p zero race tlr 28mm and the pirelli's give me more comfort and they are also hookless ready from 28mm on.
Kinlin rims are bigger than a nominal rim (presumably for safety and liability reasons). I have the same alloy rim (XR31T) that Hunt rebrands as their own.
great. Shane the main area for leaks is the sidewall/Tyre bead and the valve area. So once up you pump them up you lay flat (on a bucket) using soapy water looking for leaks, you then shake and turn and lay flat on other side again looking for leaks and allowing sealant to seal bead etc - needs to be horizontal not vertical. other thing to consider on ride, if you have to throw in a tube, make sure you have levers as not easy to remove tubeless tyre, also valve removal again hard if you've really tightened it up, so small nose pliers required. sealant quantity I'm like you 40mils but you know what happens? the sealent gums up the valve to the point where you can't push any air through. have fun.
Weird how a pair of 28mm Conti 5000's weigh 90 grams more than a 28mm pair of P-Zero Race tires but have better rolling resistance. I felt going from the 5000's to the P-Zero's on my Madone made a night and day difference in responsiveness of the bike.
I like bicycle tire rolling website. It’s great for comparing rolling resistance between tires. However only tells the story of hysteresis which is the tires intrinsic rolling resistance. The other part of the story is impedance, the resistance from imperfections from the road. This is more difficult to measure. I like Pirelli tires. The quality is really good. I use the cinturado gravel h on my gravel bike. If you don’t have a compressor you can use a reservoir floor pump. It has the added benefit of an upper body workout. It has never failed to seat a tire for me. Bontrager and lezyne have nice ones. When I get a second set of wheels built I’ll probably put a set of the p zero race tires on.
I’ve just ordered some road tubeless (wheels and P Zero tyres) so this video was timely. Thanks for the insights. I hope my experience will be a good one.
My concern is that BRR’s puncture resistance test isn’t representative of glass, sharp rocks, potholes, metal blades, etc. Instead, he pushes a needle into the tire, which is generally trivial for sealant to deal with anyway. As for mounting the tires, when you try to push the slack out of the tire to get the bead over the rim edge, wiggle the tire instead of just trying to push down. And you still need to just make the jump to Orange Seal...no joke, it’s objectively better than every other sealant.
To avoid spilling sealant when injecting, before connecting the pipe from the syringe, lean on the wheel to compress the tyre to take up some volume, then as you inject you're not pressurizing the tyre at all. Then before removing the pipe, you draw on the syringe to ensure no pressure in the tyre, so it won't burp when you remove the pipe off the valve stem.
Tubeless for 2 years now. Cannot see a reason to go back, needed zero tubes (I carry spares just in case) last year, which is down by around half a dozen I normally need in a year. So happy days. That and so much more comfortable at lower pressures.
I just bought P Zero TLR 28mm Speedcore and I'm really dissapointed. 28mm model measures ~26.5mm on 19mm inner width rim !! (the same was with P Zero Race 28 TLR TechWall) whereas other tires, Conti GP5000 or even Pirelli P Zero Road on the same rim have ~28.5-29mm !!!
Running tubeless on both gravel and road. Fantastic. Had to get used to the feel of the lower tire pressure 75 vice 90 PSI on 28mm tyres for the road. Not an issue with GP5000TLs as fas as road debris. However, the valve stems worked loose and I was losing significant air after just a few hours. I'll look into the rolling resistance site as I want to try a different brand.
i got a puncture on my tubeless gravel bike last week. small cut in the tyre as i ran over something. tyre on only for 6 months and the goo had already dried up. so it went flat. nice! had a canister to blow it up and ride as quickly home as possible.. not a happy camper. poured another 60ml of sealant in and pumped it up and sealed straight away.
Hi Shane, would be great to know which tubeless tyres fit the Giant SLR One had to sell the Conti GP5000 TL. Went back to clinchers Enjoy your summer its getting grim here in the UK
Better luck this time round. I have been tubeless for years but have had a lot of punctures this winter with flints in the tyres. Just remember to check the amount of sealant every few weeks and carry a tubless plug kit like Stans Dart with you on every ride.
I used GP 5000 S TR (the new one), so many problems with it ! it's just too thin and not durable at all ! riding Pirelli Race TLR 28mm, works well. maybe I'll try Road version later, any feedback on these ?
I installed some GP5K TL tires back on my road bike wheels. I’m running 73/75psi respectively. Your 80psi may be a little high. You’ll have to play around with the pressures and know the minimum psi for the tires. Should tell you on the box. You’re a skinny guy. I’d lower it to 70-72psi if you can. If it feels too squishy around corners, put 1-2psi in. It’ll increase comfort, especially for longer rides.
Great vlog Shane. I like your garage compressor but surely, one of those booster track pumps would do the job of seating the tyre - something like the Beto CJA-001S Tubeless Air Tank Inflator? Which leads to second question, what happens out on road if you get a deflation - a hand pump won’t get it up (so to speak 😂) and Co2 reacts with sealant? Fall back of inner tube is a right mess at roadside and defeats object. (I’ve just had my first tube fail at home with Conti GP 5000 TL - beads slipped to centre of rim and would no reseat without booster pump - which now begs the question, what happens out on road if I get a tubeless deflation. How to fix it? Subject for another vlog?)
@@WowRixter Shane does a lot of bike stuff. Its worth having the right tools. Plus a compressor is damn handy for other non bike jobs around the place.
@@AJFixie I know there are a lot of plusses. I'm still not sold yet. I have to wait til I buy another set of wheels and ensure they are tubeless ready.
@@WowRixter This is what he does for a living.....any task - even for a hobby is so much easier when you have the right tools for the job!! Just trying out tubeless for the first time....still on the fence. I have standard tires with latex tubes on my road bike and TL on my TT bike. If my "tubeless ready" wheels were actually tubeless ready (with proper tubeless rim tape) I would have put the TL on my road bike....but there you go. If I like how they perform on the TT bike then I will make the switch on my road bike as well.
These looked a ton easier to get on the rims than the GP5000 TL. I had to work hard at those even with the tire levers. Definitely worth a look if that's the case!
@@thelmaviaduct Agree. The first generation tires were crap. I went thru about a dozen as they would blister after just a few hundred miles. I’m using the Gen 2 now but going to Pirelli next
Used these in 24mm. They come up 25mm on my 9100 rims. Even at 60 psi they rattle out my teeth. These are the most harshest ride I’ve ever experienced. I’d guess the SL version will feel better as well as the wider sizes.
Hi Shane. I use this tire. And had two slices. One after 500km and another today after just 200km. The tire can not be used anymore. The sidewall is sliced. They seem very fragile. Any thoughts?
Tubeless are the way the cycling world is going. I’m wondering when the tire/bike manufacturer is going to ditch sealant all together, much like automotive. Tubeless are great when all works well. If not your chasing bugs. Half of my line up is tubes and the other half tubeless. Still trust the tubes vs. tubeless. Happy riding from Norhtern Michigan.
Cars don't have sealant as the tread and wall thickness is much more than a bicycle tyre. Truck drivers and couriers do use tyre sealant and I have some German sealant thats dedicated for trucks that in my MTB tyres.
I live in nyc and know exactly why you mean. But worry about having to change tires on the street in the event of a failure and having to reseat the tire without a powerful pump
@@CedricMelbourne never had to do that. But more times than not I would find sealant splatter on my bike and knew I was saved from changing out a tube or patching on the sidewalk.
I ran tubeless until I spent hours trying to get a new tire to seat and gave up and stuck a tube in. I am now waiting for a joe blow booster pump to arrive and I am going to give tubeless another go as I miss the puncture resistance
Thanks for the review Shane. Do you have any recommendations for latex inner tubes? I understand they don't hold air very long. Or any recommendations for performance clincher road inner tubes?
Informative as always! Overall we’re you happy with the Vittorias? I just retro fitted some old Diamanté’s in place of Gatorskins, and the ride comfort from a high TPI tyre blew me away!
The Vittorias were extremely hard to mount, even with levers. I purchased four and gave two away I was that unhappy with the mounting. That said, it was almost 0degC when I was attempting to mount them.
Hi Shane, how do they stack up width wise when compared to the Conti GP500TL 25mm? My bike says max 25mm tires (Specialissima), is there much of a difference when inflated between the two? My rims are 17mm internal width and I prefer Pirelli tires, I use the tube P Zero 25mm versions on a different wheel.
Hi Shane. Great video as always. I am currently upgrading my S Works Tarmac SL4 and have purchased Roval CLX32 tubeless ready wheels. I have fitted Conti 5000 tyres. The problem I am having is that they wont stay inflated. The deflation is very slow over a few hours. I think the beads are seated ok as I have used a tubeless air tank inflater. Could there be a leak on the valves? Regards Darren from Cornwall UK
2nd commenter I know but you finish at the valve not start at the valve, that is a huge difference in ease of fitting, the difference between fingers and needing a lever.
You COULD have gotten them on without the tire lever simply by creating slack on the bead by squeezing as much of it as possible toward the centre of the rim while trying to get the tire on the rim. Works just about every time :-)
I switched to road tubeless a couple of months ago (specialized turbo rapidairs) and have just switched back to clinchers again. I got a puncture that never properly sealed - it would unseal and leak sealant everywhere then reseal again. Gave me no confidence to take it out far away from home - I found it pretty much impossible to get one side of the bead off to put a tube in it and my LBS couldn’t get the other side off once they did get the first bead unseated. Very disappointing really - however it could have been a wheel or a tyre issue. Just wondering whether tubeless has to wait until hookless becomes the standard before it becomes properly viable.
It's probably the rim you have rather than the tyre . Many older rims don't conform to the etrto standard so are a pain in the button to seat and remove. Try Stans grail rims with schwalbe pro one .
I had no issues getting my PZeros on two different brands of rims without soap or levers. Maybe you're not squeezing the tire into the center channel enough all the way around as you mount them.
Tried tubeless 28c Scwalbe Pro one Evo which was a nightmare with punctures, sealant didn't work. Switched to Continental 28c GP5000 TL and never looked back. If you use the right tyres you'll never go back to tubes.
Hi Shane.. Would you please let me know the hunt wheel's ineer width? I have 17c rim and installed same p zero 700 x 26c today. My concern is the box of P Zero 700 x 26c says rim width 19c . Do you think any problem with 17c rim with p zero 700 x 26c?
@@gplama that's crazy, I also adopt a safety first approach. Glasses, gloves and not much more than 40psi in the bottle will generally seat my 42mm gravel tyre. Hearing this though maybe a real compressor would be the best option.
I am on the fence guys. I want to try tubeless coming from 25mm Continental 5000s Tour de France (non-tubeless, of course) with latex tubes. Do you think it is worth splurging on tubeless (Conti or similar performance) and converting? My wheels are tubeless ready anyway, so that should not be a problem. I can feel the difference between latex and butyl tubes, but how much difference is there between latex tubes and tubeless?
Not all that much difference in my experience.... but give it a shot and see how it goes. It might be a good switch for you, and you’ll never know unless you give it a shot! 🚲👌🏼
Tyre's aren't light but you save a minimum of 50g on an average weight tube allowing for sealant so it's like running a lightweight all rounder clincher in the end game.
@@gplama the reason why I’m asking is because I’m going to get some tubeless rim but I have rim break’s. the heat from the breaking won’t do anything to the tire or rim?
Great video and thinking these will be my next choice for tyres 👍. Just a thought.. have you tried fitting tubeless tyres where you do the final push over the rim at the valve, just gives the tyre that little extra bit of room where the tyre isn't restricted from sitting into the dip of the rim by the valve.
I was about to say the same: bead inserted at valve area at last... is a must. Would have been then able to do it by hand. The soap also isn't usually necessary...
My experience has been hot and cold with the GP5000. They're either brilliant or they last 300km and get a sidewall slash. The Pirelli are holding up well so far.
A small tip, I’ve discovered if instead of tightening the collar on the valve stem just put it on a couple of turns. Doing that allows you to push it up out of the way enabling you to fit the tyre sans tools.
Should always finish putting the tyre on at the valve for first and second bead. Doing it the other way the valve is in the way stopping the tyre to sit down in the groove so results in less slack.
Here I am in Vancouver watching it rain as usual. Wanting to visit OZ for your summer, but can't. So I will just sit here and watch this nice video.
9 years road tubeless (early years were all converted rims) and only once had to put a tube in at the roadside. Average over 7k kms per year this is pretty good.
Modern rims are much easier to seat the bead though!
0:38 as someone who suffered a failure to mount a gravel tyre and had to resort to a bike shop and they had to resort to "easy mount" solution + high pressure pump, it was the best part.
Been riding tubeless for about 8 years and been very happy. Only ever had to put a tube in it one time. The rest of my experience has been awesome.
What’s your routine for checking/topping up sealant?
@@gplama I try to remember to add more every 3-5 months. I run Stans, so your results may vary. Almost all of the flats I've gotten on the road have been due to not remembering to top it up after winter... And even then, every time they've held pressure long enough to get back home. One time I went about 25km before it started bouncing on the rim.
Edit: except the one time, I was riding through heavy gravel on my road bike at full steam and got a 1.5cm sidewall cut that I very much deserved. No sealant was stopping that leak.
Have switched to tubeless about 2 years now, don't even take a spare tube anymore just Stans Darts and a small 40ml container of sealant have had to use that system only twice since changing. More than happy with ride comfort and tyre wear. Cheers.
Top tip for awkward tyre install for new tyres. If the first bead is difficult to get over the rim try removing the valve core until you have both beads sitting in the central rim channel. This will give you a fraction of a mm more tyre room over the rim. Every little helps. Enjoy the ride.
Great video Shane and you made it look effortless.👏 For road I stick with race tubes and 85 / 80 psi as I don’t want to carry tubeless repair strips and two spare tubes. For gravel and MTB tyre pressures, tubeless is a no brainier.👍
I tried road tubeless for a year. Riding them was fantastic -- the ride feel was undeniably great. But getting them to seat properly, and adding sealant was night-marish. I used Bontrager R3 Hard-Case Lite TLR tires in 32mm width, on Reynolds AR41X DB wheels. Getting them onto the rims was really easy -- too easy. I hard a hard time getting them to seal since they fit so loosely, did all the tricks, used a compressor. Finally got them to seal after probably an hour or more. But they properly, uniformly seated and sealed.
When it came time to add sealant, letting the air out of the front tire unseated the entire bead, collapsing both sides of the bead around the whole tire all at once and all the remaining sealant dumped out. Makes me wonder what would happen if I got a serious flat -- tire would come off the rim? The bead is supposed to stay seated. Anyway, then I couldn't get the front tire bead to seat again no matter what. I had to put a tube in to get the bead to seat, after that I removed the tube and one side of the bead and added sealant without the entire bead collapsing. After I got it to seal again, it leaked 15-20 PSI per day. There was not a single visible leak where I could see sealant, nor could I hear it leaking. Not at the valve, not anywhere around the bead, not at the spoke holes either. Still leaked air massively. I also checked the rim tape thoroughly later on -- it looked perfectly installed at the factory. Still leaked. I'm going back to tubes, they weren't so bad. Only 1-2 flats per year on average. I've gone entire years and 3,000 - 4,000 thousand miles without any flats. Going to try the new Schwalbe Aerothan tubes with tubed Pirelli P Zero Velo tires. I really wanted to like road tubeless, but it was really not great for me.
Hi Shane, recently took the advice of a bike mechanic and lay my conti 5000 T/L in sunlight in the garden for a couple of hours,they went on my carbon rims a lot easier.
I use an air tank to set the tires. You have to pump it up but cheaper than a compressor.
Hi Shane, just a tip, it may be an idea to stand a little closer to that razor! Lol 😁 Have fun with the tubeless.
I love tubeless for off-road because the way they feel and the low pressures that you can run. I ran tubeless on my roadbike for a year, but switched back to latex tubes with Vittoria Corsa tires.
They feeling this combination gives me is way better than the TL tires I had (Schwalbe Pro one). And when I had a flat on the road, it did not always go well....
Switched to tubeless here earlier in the year, still carrying 2 spare tubes though, just in case.
CO2 and dynaplugs. Not carried tubes in 5 years.
STANS DART is all I carry
@@deepakvrao
CO2 hardens sealant, rendering it useless.
@@helicart Negative, there are CO2 compatible sealants. I've done C02 for a couple of years and tubeless. Zero Issues.
Just a quick one - looks like you're putting the tyre on from the valve to the other side (at least for the second one, didn't go back and check the other). Generally you want to finish at the valve with tubeless tyres, as you can get the maximum amount of slack by starting with the beads in the channel. That's no guarantee these tyres will go on without a tyre lever or very strong hands, but it should help.
Agree. Much easier to leave valve side last
Yes I wanted to hint that to Shane too. Start oposite the valve and finish at the valve makes it much easier to mount tires without tools.
I've been tubeless on the road and gravel bikes for about four years now - wouldn't think of going back. There can be a bit of a learning curve, which can be frustrating when you first switch over, but it gets easier all of the time. There's also maintenance - I check my sealant condition and levels every 4 to 6 weeks, depending upon the road conditions and the miles that I'm logging (many punctures can go unnoticed and you might find yourself running dry unless you check it on a schedule). FWIW, I've never needed a tire lever to get tires on, though I've only used 4 or 5 wheelsets and 8 to 10 tires of different size and manufacturer.
I just bought a set of Pirelli P Zero SL version. Can't wait to put them on my summer bike next year !
Where are they made?
Thumbs up for DnB music choice 🌞
Shane, since ur familiar with sealant now, u shjould get back to tubulars... no mess. Punctures on road? install sealant on the road, co2 cannister, and off u go.
I went tubeless a few years ago as I use to get flats every couple of rides. No problem ever since, also welcome the smoother ride at slightly lower pressure, not going back.
2 road 2 gravel 1 e bike all tubeless, no issues for me or family only down side you need to keep an eye on pressure if you are not using the bike the do go soft in about 2/3 weeks
I moved to tubeless on all bikes earlier this year and will not go back. I have had two punctures (rear on different bikes) and they worked a charm - instantly sealed and able to get home (in fact one picture I did not realize until I saw a huge shard of metal sticking out). Interesting to see how these tyres go for the long haul. I had the tube version of the Velos and loved them.
Hey Shane, next time try starting the tire opposite the valve and ending at the valve. No risk of pinching a tube by ending at the valve with tubeless. Awesome vids
Good follow up Shane thank you. I run Schwalbe pro one's tubeless tyres with removable core tubes with sealant. Just so much glass around Christchurch I can't be arsed with flats. Still roll better than Winter tyres. Cheers.
I never switch back to innertubes. Love the Giant tubeless tires, maintenance and reliability are a big plus for me.
I used the gavia fondo1 32mm on my new defy with slr1 wheels and changed them to pirelli p zero race tlr 28mm and the pirelli's give me more comfort and they are also hookless ready from 28mm on.
Liking the chilled background choon as usual Shane, not the standard chipmunk synth tracks that are ubiquitous on YT at present!
It’s hard to find good tunes. I’ve used these a few times prior. I like these tracks.
Great to see the studio looking beaut!
Kinlin rims are bigger than a nominal rim (presumably for safety and liability reasons). I have the same alloy rim (XR31T) that Hunt rebrands as their own.
great. Shane the main area for leaks is the sidewall/Tyre bead and the valve area. So once up you pump them up you lay flat (on a bucket) using soapy water looking for leaks, you then shake and turn and lay flat on other side again looking for leaks and allowing sealant to seal bead etc - needs to be horizontal not vertical. other thing to consider on ride, if you have to throw in a tube, make sure you have levers as not easy to remove tubeless tyre, also valve removal again hard if you've really tightened it up, so small nose pliers required.
sealant quantity I'm like you 40mils but you know what happens? the sealent gums up the valve to the point where you can't push any air through. have fun.
Weird how a pair of 28mm Conti 5000's weigh 90 grams more than a 28mm pair of P-Zero Race tires but have better rolling resistance. I felt going from the 5000's to the P-Zero's on my Madone made a night and day difference in responsiveness of the bike.
As in the pirellis felt better or contis felt better?
I like bicycle tire rolling website. It’s great for comparing rolling resistance between tires. However only tells the story of hysteresis which is the tires intrinsic rolling resistance. The other part of the story is impedance, the resistance from imperfections from the road. This is more difficult to measure. I like Pirelli tires. The quality is really good. I use the cinturado gravel h on my gravel bike. If you don’t have a compressor you can use a reservoir floor pump. It has the added benefit of an upper body workout. It has never failed to seat a tire for me. Bontrager and lezyne have nice ones. When I get a second set of wheels built I’ll probably put a set of the p zero race tires on.
I’ve just ordered some road tubeless (wheels and P Zero tyres) so this video was timely. Thanks for the insights. I hope my experience will be a good one.
These are going well so far.
Please, please, please let us see you mount the tires!!! The first take was epic 😀😀😀
Wicked Pissah Cool Video GpLama gonna have to try those P-Zero’s😁
My concern is that BRR’s puncture resistance test isn’t representative of glass, sharp rocks, potholes, metal blades, etc. Instead, he pushes a needle into the tire, which is generally trivial for sealant to deal with anyway. As for mounting the tires, when you try to push the slack out of the tire to get the bead over the rim edge, wiggle the tire instead of just trying to push down. And you still need to just make the jump to Orange Seal...no joke, it’s objectively better than every other sealant.
Consistently brilliant content Mr Lama
To avoid spilling sealant when injecting, before connecting the pipe from the syringe, lean on the wheel to compress the tyre to take up some volume, then as you inject you're not pressurizing the tyre at all. Then before removing the pipe, you draw on the syringe to ensure no pressure in the tyre, so it won't burp when you remove the pipe off the valve stem.
Tubeless for 2 years now. Cannot see a reason to go back, needed zero tubes (I carry spares just in case) last year, which is down by around half a dozen I normally need in a year. So happy days. That and so much more comfortable at lower pressures.
I just bought P Zero TLR 28mm Speedcore and I'm really dissapointed.
28mm model measures ~26.5mm on 19mm inner width rim !! (the same was with P Zero Race 28 TLR TechWall)
whereas other tires, Conti GP5000 or even Pirelli P Zero Road on the same rim have ~28.5-29mm !!!
Running tubeless on both gravel and road. Fantastic. Had to get used to the feel of the lower tire pressure 75 vice 90 PSI on 28mm tyres for the road. Not an issue with GP5000TLs as fas as road debris. However, the valve stems worked loose and I was losing significant air after just a few hours. I'll look into the rolling resistance site as I want to try a different brand.
i got a puncture on my tubeless gravel bike last week. small cut in the tyre as i ran over something. tyre on only for 6 months and the goo had already dried up. so it went flat.
nice! had a canister to blow it up and ride as quickly home as possible.. not a happy camper. poured another 60ml of sealant in and pumped it up and sealed straight away.
Too many MagDogWatts mate! 🚲💨✨
@@gplama hope it was as simple as that :)
Hi Shane, would be great to know which tubeless tyres fit the Giant SLR One had to sell the Conti GP5000 TL.
Went back to clinchers
Enjoy your summer its getting grim here in the UK
Here you go: www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/hookless-technology
Better luck this time round. I have been tubeless for years but have had a lot of punctures this winter with flints in the tyres. Just remember to check the amount of sealant every few weeks and carry a tubless plug kit like Stans Dart with you on every ride.
What’s the best method to check sealant levels?
@@gplama The Milkit syringe kit gets a bunch of good reviews.
milkit.bike/
Syphon the sealant out and back in. Adding a bit to top up what's missing.
I used GP 5000 S TR (the new one), so many problems with it ! it's just too thin and not durable at all !
riding Pirelli Race TLR 28mm, works well. maybe I'll try Road version later, any feedback on these ?
Thank you Shane for another fantastic review.
Its been a long road, but I'm pleased as punch with this.
Get a blow tool for the air compressor, good way to blow off the drive train and disc brake calipers after the ride. Keeps them cleaner longer..
I installed some GP5K TL tires back on my road bike wheels. I’m running 73/75psi respectively. Your 80psi may be a little high. You’ll have to play around with the pressures and know the minimum psi for the tires. Should tell you on the box. You’re a skinny guy. I’d lower it to 70-72psi if you can. If it feels too squishy around corners, put 1-2psi in. It’ll increase comfort, especially for longer rides.
Those wheels look as dished as me on the first Friday night after lockdown ends 🤨 thanks for the video, was waiting for this one 👌🏼
Great vlog Shane. I like your garage compressor but surely, one of those booster track pumps would do the job of seating the tyre - something like the Beto CJA-001S Tubeless Air Tank Inflator? Which leads to second question, what happens out on road if you get a deflation - a hand pump won’t get it up (so to speak 😂) and Co2 reacts with sealant? Fall back of inner tube is a right mess at roadside and defeats object. (I’ve just had my first tube fail at home with Conti GP 5000 TL - beads slipped to centre of rim and would no reseat without booster pump - which now begs the question, what happens out on road if I get a tubeless deflation. How to fix it? Subject for another vlog?)
I like the idea of tubeless but I’ll be sticking with tubes for now. Just seems like a lot of hassle for minimal benefit to me.
Buying a compressor just to install a tire seems 😜.
@@WowRixter Shane does a lot of bike stuff. Its worth having the right tools. Plus a compressor is damn handy for other non bike jobs around the place.
Faster, better handling, smoother and less punctures. Well worth the hassle.
@@AJFixie I know there are a lot of plusses. I'm still not sold yet. I have to wait til I buy another set of wheels and ensure they are tubeless ready.
@@WowRixter This is what he does for a living.....any task - even for a hobby is so much easier when you have the right tools for the job!!
Just trying out tubeless for the first time....still on the fence. I have standard tires with latex tubes on my road bike and TL on my TT bike. If my "tubeless ready" wheels were actually tubeless ready (with proper tubeless rim tape) I would have put the TL on my road bike....but there you go. If I like how they perform on the TT bike then I will make the switch on my road bike as well.
I run hookles 25mm gp5kTL on my Farsport wheels and I love them compared to the schwalbe pro one.
What's the benefits of hookless?
@@abedfo88 weight
I take it you know Conti 5000 TL should never be used with Hookless rims! The will blow off and Conti warn you not to use them except on hooked rims!
These looked a ton easier to get on the rims than the GP5000 TL. I had to work hard at those even with the tire levers. Definitely worth a look if that's the case!
Tubeless on all my bikes (MTB, CX and road) for years now. Not perfect, but still loads better than dealing with tubes. Air compressor for sure.
perfect video! thanks a lot!
How many kms do you have already on these tires? It is enought for the long term review?
Been on road tubeless over 3 years now. Wouldn’t go any other way. Can’t wait to wear out my current Mavic tires so I can try these Pirelli tires
Mavic yksion tubeless tyres are a thing of nightmares, I had a very bad time with them. Glass cuts on every ride, so many punctures.
@@thelmaviaduct Agree. The first generation tires were crap. I went thru about a dozen as they would blister after just a few hundred miles. I’m using the Gen 2 now but going to Pirelli next
@@MFQuinnCyclist I luckily fell upon Panaracer Gravelkings, tubeless from 32mm onwards, very light and inexpensive.
Hi Shane, just wondering what model of the Fendi Air Compressor you have? the 30L or the 50L?
Rookie tubeless mistake starting at the valve which is the tightest point on the rim. You should start opposite the valve and finish there.
Used these in 24mm. They come up 25mm on my 9100 rims. Even at 60 psi they rattle out my teeth. These are the most harshest ride I’ve ever experienced. I’d guess the SL version will feel better as well as the wider sizes.
Benn on road TL for 4-5 years, on i had to put in a tube due to old seal.. It's a no brainer 👍
Hi Shane. I use this tire. And had two slices. One after 500km and another today after just 200km. The tire can not be used anymore. The sidewall is sliced. They seem very fragile. Any thoughts?
Tubeless are the way the cycling world is going. I’m wondering when the tire/bike manufacturer is going to ditch sealant all together, much like automotive. Tubeless are great when all works well. If not your chasing bugs. Half of my line up is tubes and the other half tubeless. Still trust the tubes vs. tubeless. Happy riding from Norhtern Michigan.
Cars don't have sealant as the tread and wall thickness is much more than a bicycle tyre. Truck drivers and couriers do use tyre sealant and I have some German sealant thats dedicated for trucks that in my MTB tyres.
I've been tubeless since 2016. I use to live and ride in NYC, tubless was a god send for all the crap on the roads there.
I live in nyc and know exactly why you mean. But worry about having to change tires on the street in the event of a failure and having to reseat the tire without a powerful pump
@@CedricMelbourne never had to do that. But more times than not I would find sealant splatter on my bike and knew I was saved from changing out a tube or patching on the sidewalk.
Interesting🙏🏾
I ran tubeless until I spent hours trying to get a new tire to seat and gave up and stuck a tube in. I am now waiting for a joe blow booster pump to arrive and I am going to give tubeless another go as I miss the puncture resistance
Thanks for the review Shane. Do you have any recommendations for latex inner tubes? I understand they don't hold air very long. Or any recommendations for performance clincher road inner tubes?
I've just used whatever was in stock for latex tubes. BicycleRollingResistance website might have some details on performance.
Informative as always! Overall we’re you happy with the Vittorias? I just retro fitted some old Diamanté’s in place of Gatorskins, and the ride comfort from a high TPI tyre blew me away!
The Vittorias were extremely hard to mount, even with levers. I purchased four and gave two away I was that unhappy with the mounting. That said, it was almost 0degC when I was attempting to mount them.
@@gplama haha, maybe should’ve given them a bath in boiling water first!
Hi Shane, how do they stack up width wise when compared to the Conti GP500TL 25mm? My bike says max 25mm tires (Specialissima), is there much of a difference when inflated between the two? My rims are 17mm internal width and I prefer Pirelli tires, I use the tube P Zero 25mm versions on a different wheel.
I can’t recall the specifics off the top of my head sorry. I include the measurements in the videos I’ve done on these and the GP5000.
Hi Shane. Great video as always. I am currently upgrading my S Works Tarmac SL4 and have purchased Roval CLX32 tubeless ready wheels. I have fitted Conti 5000 tyres. The problem I am having is that they wont stay inflated. The deflation is very slow over a few hours. I think the beads are seated ok as I have used a tubeless air tank inflater. Could there be a leak on the valves? Regards Darren from Cornwall UK
Have you solved the problem yet?
Just bought these bad boys. Yeah yeah.
2nd commenter I know but you finish at the valve not start at the valve, that is a huge difference in ease of fitting, the difference between fingers and needing a lever.
You COULD have gotten them on without the tire lever simply by creating slack on the bead by squeezing as much of it as possible toward the centre of the rim while trying to get the tire on the rim. Works just about every time :-)
I switched to road tubeless a couple of months ago (specialized turbo rapidairs) and have just switched back to clinchers again. I got a puncture that never properly sealed - it would unseal and leak sealant everywhere then reseal again. Gave me no confidence to take it out far away from home - I found it pretty much impossible to get one side of the bead off to put a tube in it and my LBS couldn’t get the other side off once they did get the first bead unseated. Very disappointing really - however it could have been a wheel or a tyre issue. Just wondering whether tubeless has to wait until hookless becomes the standard before it becomes properly viable.
It's probably the rim you have rather than the tyre . Many older rims don't conform to the etrto standard so are a pain in the button to seat and remove. Try Stans grail rims with schwalbe pro one .
More satisfying than your tubeless fail video!
Tubeless setup on road has been an absolute nightmare for me, going to gives the P Zero Race TLR a shot as a last chance!
Getting an air compressor is a must for road tubeless.
Another great video. Wondering if you have found a Presta fitting for your compressor?
Not yet. The Park Tool one looks good... but... $.
I had no issues getting my PZeros on two different brands of rims without soap or levers. Maybe you're not squeezing the tire into the center channel enough all the way around as you mount them.
Tried tubeless 28c Scwalbe Pro one Evo which was a nightmare with punctures, sealant didn't work. Switched to Continental 28c GP5000 TL and never looked back. If you use the right tyres you'll never go back to tubes.
Pinch the tire before attaching sealant. Release the pinch as you inject the sealant. No drips.
Good tip! I figured this out with recent top-ups.
Hi Shane.. Would you please let me know the hunt wheel's ineer width? I have 17c rim and installed same p zero 700 x 26c today. My concern is the box of P Zero 700 x 26c says rim width 19c .
Do you think any problem with 17c rim with p zero 700 x 26c?
These HUNT wheels are 19mm internal. Should be no problem with 17mm. Best ask this of Pirelli for the official answer.
I made one of those home made coke bottle "airshots" was literally a life saver!
Someone linked over on Twitter to someone who had blown their fingers apart on a homemade inflator.... scary stuff!
@@gplama that's crazy, I also adopt a safety first approach. Glasses, gloves and not much more than 40psi in the bottle will generally seat my 42mm gravel tyre.
Hearing this though maybe a real compressor would be the best option.
@@abedfo88 Here's the link.... *risky click warning* :) twitter.com/owdrider/status/1338360613052051456
@@gplama bloody hell, cant believe it could cause so much damage.
@@abedfo88 the most powerful hurricanes are caused by ~1.3psi pressure difference. Respect the air! :)
I’m using Schwalbe pro one TL and thinking to try these ones. But why going with the puncture protection one if there is sealant?
I am on the fence guys. I want to try tubeless coming from 25mm Continental 5000s Tour de France (non-tubeless, of course) with latex tubes. Do you think it is worth splurging on tubeless (Conti or similar performance) and converting? My wheels are tubeless ready anyway, so that should not be a problem. I can feel the difference between latex and butyl tubes, but how much difference is there between latex tubes and tubeless?
Not all that much difference in my experience.... but give it a shot and see how it goes. It might be a good switch for you, and you’ll never know unless you give it a shot! 🚲👌🏼
Do you ever suffer from the tyre “burping” as you go round corners? Both my son and son in law have experienced this. I’m yet to try tubeless.
Nope
Tubeless is the way to go. Ive fixed tires that the sealant wouldn't fix with just a bit of super glue.
Tyre's aren't light but you save a minimum of 50g on an average weight tube allowing for sealant so it's like running a lightweight all rounder clincher in the end game.
13:00 Nice Watopia footage at the end of the video :)
Is mandatory use of tire sealant in this tyres with puncture protection ?
Tubeless Ninja. Level Achieved. :)
rookie on the tubeless tyres, how much PSI you need to inflate then put the seal and again inflate?
thanks
It's not about PSI when inflating them to seat on the bead. It's about volume. Usually lots.
I use a CO2 pump to seat the beads on should my track pump not work.
Hi Shane.
What are your opinions about running a 25mm front and 28mm rear.
I have nothing against this idea.... it might be a good compromise.
You put the sealant in with the valve at 4 o'clock not 2 o'clock. That way it runs down the i side of the tyre not back out the valve
It won't be long until the next 'digital' generation will ask what the time of the day has to do with angle definitions. :)
Do you have any problems with the tubeless tires cause you have rim breaks supposed to caliper breaks?
Rim brakes are caliper brakes. No issues due to the braking type (caliper or disc).
@@gplama the reason why I’m asking is because I’m going to get some tubeless rim but I have rim break’s.
the heat from the breaking won’t do anything to the tire or rim?
Great video and thinking these will be my next choice for tyres 👍.
Just a thought.. have you tried fitting tubeless tyres where you do the final push over the rim at the valve, just gives the tyre that little extra bit of room where the tyre isn't restricted from sitting into the dip of the rim by the valve.
I was about to say the same: bead inserted at valve area at last... is a must. Would have been then able to do it by hand. The soap also isn't usually necessary...
Looking for my first set of tubeless tyres upgrade from my Giant Gavia , which is best you would recommend, Conti GP 5000 or these Pirelli Zero ,
My experience has been hot and cold with the GP5000. They're either brilliant or they last 300km and get a sidewall slash. The Pirelli are holding up well so far.
@@gplama great , thanks for reply , think I’ll opt for the Pirelli Zeros they seem easier to fit also 👍🏻
The nodules are a necessity and derive from the vulcanisation process
80psi? I'm maybe 10-15kgs heavier than you and I ride tubeless at 70 & 75psi (front & back). Gives a smoother ride with still excellent handling
Get yourself a Park Tool Shop Inflator www.parktool.com/product/shop-inflator-inf-2