2015 Mercedes Benz GL550 - Turbo Coolant Line Repair
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- The turbo coolant lines on my 2015 GL550 became brittle and broke and coolant leaked all over. This occurred about 3 days before my business trip. I replaced the feeder and return turbo coolant lines. The video isn't as detailed as I would have liked but I had a short window to repair. I captured as much of the repair as I could and hope this helps.
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This will be my last MB product because of the coolant system plastics issue. I have had multiple failures in the past 6 months on my 2014 GL550, 65000 miles. The internals of the plastic hoses and connectors are completely disintegrating from the inside out. Many times the connector breaks off inside the engine block.
Thank you so much for your video Rasta997, and thank you for others who have commented and provided tips for this particular repair.
I agree 100%. The plastic connectors are garbage. They break at the slightest touch and I worry about another leak every time I drive the car . . . will it leave me stranded somewhere. Also, I had to change my front struts at 50k miles because they failed and would make this loud "clunking" noise over ever bump in the road. Biggest POS on wheels!
Thanks for the video. This just happened to my GL 450. Your info will help tremendous.
Used this video for my wife ml550. Thanks for posting it was really helpful!
Your video is greatly appreciated. I actually have to do this job later on today Thank you
Thank you! I try to document DYIs that I can't find or create DYIs with more detail with the hope of helping others. Positive feedback such as yours motivates me to keep documenting and posting.
Best of luck on your repair. There's no shortcut when I repaired mine so take your time. When frustration sets in - step back before you beat the MB. LOL
Say my man you killed it on this video the breakdown the the parts description and part numbers awesome job thanks so much
Thank you!
Amazing video! Thank you so much
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Same thing happen with mine's last week very helpful
Good luck.
Good stuff👍🏾👍🏾
You don't actually have to drop the AC compressor to get to the driver side turbo fitting.
Remove the wheel liner and... with a knife, cut the heat shield by the turbo and fold it back.
It doesn't need to be a big hole, just large enough for the socket and pliers to pull it out.
You can then reach it with no issues.
Thanks for the video!
Do I need to remove the wheel
@@zishanahmad3273 I believe you must remove the wheel because you need to remove the wheel liner. You will find a heat shield that you can cut with a stout knife and fold back.
I did this… it is not approved by MB, but saves 6 hours plus an AC recharge.
Good luck
@@capn_shawndid you remove radiator and fan?
@@mikimiki195 No, it is not necessary.
The driver side requires removal of the turbo charge pipes and (going from memory), accessory belt and a few brackets. I did not open the coolant system other than what leaked out the broken fitting. I also did not remove the fan but I could see how it would make life easier if it were not there. I used a mirror and a magnet to re-install the hose mounts. You will see that there is just one way for the hose/pipe to fit. Once you snake it into place it will support itself, but I imagine it will fail quicker if the support brackets are not there. Replace both inlet and outlet if you are in there. Even an idiot like myself can do this in less than 3 hours.
The passenger side is way easier.
Not going to lie, I've done this twice and had it done twice. Once under warranty and once because it broke 1600 miles from home and I had no way to do it myself. Apparently these pieces of junk only last 30-40K miles. We are on the 5th set since the car was new. Since we are at 180K miles now, I probably shouldn't make any plans for next weekend.
Just so you know, both times I did this, the O-Ring fitting in the turbo was seized in the hole. I don't know if it is dissimilar metals or what, but it takes some twisting and re-thinking life to get it out. The new ones go in like butter, so it isn't a fitment thing.
@@capn_shawn great so you did everything from the top without removing a/c compressor and no cutting heat shield on driver side or removing the wheel?
Great video! Same thing happened to mine. After replacing all parts, Did you have to fill the coolant reservoir on top of the engine? Or just the main one on the driver's side of the engine? I've filled the main one, but the one on top of the engine is empty and I don't know if that's normal. Thanks!
Thanks! I glad it was helpful.
I refilled the coolant from the reservoir on the drivers side a little bit beyond the "max" line and drove the car around for 10 minutes and went back and checked the coolant level. If your level is too low, the "check coolant" light should be on. Just check after driving an refill as needed.
Great, thanks for the reply. I did the same thing, but the center reservoir (I guess it's the turbo coolant reservoir) seemed empty. I double checked and it did have some coolant, but not enough, so I jus added some. Thanks again!
@@Uhubbard27 Cool. I think when the engine is cool, you'll have a "low" level. Just don't over fill.
Service tech here. Just got one of these this afternoon and I was looking to see if there was any tips on how to get the feeder to turbo screw. I got it out but there is no easy way honestly. Those feeders pipe kicked my ass tho. They where stuck on there damn good. Even had trouble putting them back in flush.
Yeah. You just gotta be patient and use a long pry bar to pop the connectors off. and use the same pry bar to seat them back on. A little bit of petroleum jelly or baby oil help the o-rings slide into the grooves easier. Removal of the AC compressor is a must. Now I'm dealing with a similar issue on 2010 X5M; however, some of the lines aren't in a tight space like the MB. MB sucks! LOL
Hello, thanks for the video. I like to know if your car has an aux water pump?
Hi. I don't believe it does. Just a standard water pump.
Do you have all the Part Numbers for the lines? None of the snapshots show PN’s and I’m having a tough time figuring them all out. And about to replace my 13’ GL550 radiator due to it cracking at plastic (lame)
Hi, Around the 6:54 to 7:00 minute mark is where I provide the parts diagram and part numbers. There is also a part the sits right on top of the engine that should be replaced as well. That POS is also made of plastic and prone to fail. I don't have the part number but if you lift the center engine cover, it is located right below the MB emblem of the cover. It's a little plastic hose that connects to the center of the engine head/block. Ask the parts guy at the dealer and he/she will know exactly what you are looking for because they replace those all the time! I hate my MB . . .
How long did this take you to replace all, not counting the coming and going to get parts? Just actual labor? And cost in parts?
About a day or so because it was my first time. If I had to do it again, I think I can complete it in 5 to 6 hours. As for cost, I think it ranged from $200-$300 for parts but I can't recall exactly since it was some time ago.
Great video. With my luck my issue is the driver side turbo return line. When you removed the AC compressor did you have to undo the AClines and lose refrigerant going to it? Or did u just unbolt it and move it to the side
Thanks! I really wanted to video the step by step but I didn't have time due to my upcoming business trip.
You DO NOT need to disconnect the refrigerant lines. Just move it to the side and try to support it with something.
Once the compressor is off to the side, you'll have just enough room underneath to insert a long pry bar to "pop" off the lines (don't forget to remove the screw though). You may be able to pop it off from the top as well. Just be patient! It's a real PITA due to the lack of space.
I replaced all but one of the right side lines - can't remember if it was the inlet or outlet. My car had 42k miles at the time and the lines were brittle and it didn't take much to break. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.
Good luck!
Rasta997 Turbo amazingly detailed response! Thanks brother! My GL has 70,000 miles. And the plastic connector on the return line completely became brittle and broke. Your video helped so much. Thank you! Gonna knock it out this weekend
@@alexandersyed5570 No problem mon! LOL
Seriously though, take your time as some the screws are located in tight areas and you can easily lose one or two in the engine bay.
Forgot to mention that you should draw a diagram of the serpentine belt route. Makes it a lot easier when you put everything back together.
Excellent video! I have done most of the removal work but getting feeder and return line removed from that narrow gap is really pain. Do you have any hints how to loosen AC compressor?
Hi. Thank you and sorry for the late reply. I'm sure you figured it out by now but thought I'd provide my suggestion anyway. I actually removed the a/c compressor from the bracket that holds it in place. There are 3 torx bolts (maybe a T-40, T-45 or T-50) and are a little tricky to remove but is possible. It'll be a little tight and the compressor is heavy. It is certainly possible so take your time. The 1 or 2 back bolts are in a tight space but you can get in there with a small socket wrench.
@@rasta997turbo9 Thanks. Yes I solved it or actually I did not touch it at all but was able to remove hoses from top. Not much room there but finally succeeded and installing new hoses there was easier than removing the old ones.
@@mikkorautavuori1037 what socket size is used for removal? In that tight space I can’t see
@@mikkorautavuori1037did you have to remove your radiator and fan
I just notice leak do you have any tips and tricks for me thanks
@@mikimiki195 I did not remove radiator/fan. Removing that one hose was difficult but it is doable.
Hi! This same thing just happened to my boyfriend, what a small world and perfect timing. I was wondering how long this took you to do?
Hi. Sorry for the late reply. It took me about a day or 2. The reason it took that long was I had to run back and forth from the dealer and parts store for tools (pry bars, which you can see at 3:30). The biggest pain was the driver side turbo coolant hose connector. It's a tight area and luckily my local parts store had these really long screw driver/pry bars. I used the pry bar from the bottom of the car to "pop off" the connectors after removing the screw that held them in place. I had barely enough room once the A/C unit was moved to the side.
@@rasta997turbo9 This is great info, I'm actually doing this project now. I'm stuck @ the same spot right now but I'm heading to get those pry bars to get the connectors off. It's crazy how hard they are to remove, and this video has been extremely helpful so far so thank you!
@@JD-up9ml Yah mon! It's a real PITA but doable! Good luck!
Great video. What are the torque specs for connecting the lines to the turbo and the engine?
Hi Bob. Thank you. I don't know the torque specs but I can tell you the one on the driver's side will be "turn until it feels really tight" because you have practically zero room. I'm fortunate to have skinny fingers! I just tighten each really snug and tight. No issues thus far and it's been over a year and a half since I replaced the hoses.
9 nm@@rasta997turbo9
What should a job like this cost? I saw 200-300 for parts, but just how about just a rough estimate on labor? And they’re the same as the S550 right?
Hi Steve,
I don't know . . . but I suspect its a 4 to 6+ hour job given the amount of lines to replace. I think you spend a couple of hours removing the intake turbo hoses, major coolant lines, A/C compressor (removed from the bracket and not disconnecting the a/c lines), etc.. The location of the turbo coolant line connector on the driver side turbo is stupid tight as you can see from the video. If my recollection serve me right, It took me approximately 8+ hours. A professional should be able to do in less time as they already know what to do. It was my first time so it took a lot of time to figure things out.
This should be very similar to the S550 because I think it's the same engine.
The screw that holds both caps together, was it long or short?
Fairly short. There's just enough room to remove and reinsert it.
This job has the things for the S550. Bad pain in the ass is an understatement! I’m going through this right now smh
I agree. MB cars suck in my opinion and BMW is not too far behind. Just poor material.
That was excellent video the same thing to my car but mine broke at the center of the motor once you take them off you have to replace both because the second one will break it’s tight job but it’s definitely do able it’s cheaper to do it ur self
Thank you! I'm glad the video helped you. Those plastic pieces get brittle and if one is cracked or breaks, most likely the others with plastic ends are compromised and need replacement. If not, replace them anyway because you don't want to replace the others later because its a pain to remove the lines. Definitely a DYI job but you have to take your time and be careful not to drop any of the screws!
What tool did you use to get the line loose
At about the 3:28 minute mark, you'll see a few really long screw drivers/pry bars. I used the straight flat one and was able to remove the the broken connector from underneath the car. It was tight going from the bottom but that was the only access I had. It's really tight there so take your time and try not to get frustrated.
Did you have to replace the water pump too or only the turbo lines?
Just the turbo lines but I think my pump will need replacing soon. It's stating to weep a bit. Less than 66k miles . . . MB IS BIGGEST POS!!!!
@@rasta997turbo9 got the culprit on my w222, it was the turbo charger coolant line (left) and vent hose snapped off, any reason why they break, is it the heat? Looks like I just have to replace those two and the others are good still.
@@juniordace1347 Heat cycles and just good old fashion cheap materials. My 2015 GL550 had less than 50k miles when this all happened and more has has deteriorated since - less than 70k miles now . . . ultimately, if you intend to keep your POS MB (I've invested so much in parts - luckily I do my own repairs as much as possible - I plan to keep mine for a while), then you'll need to replace all the aluminum/plastic combo hoses. They are so bad, you can easily crush them by simply pinching the plastic sections. My coils are starting to go out as well. I have replaced the ignition coils for cylinder 2, 5, and 6 last year. Cylinder 3 ignition coil is starting to fail and as well as the A/C compressor . . . all before hitting 70k miles. Apologies for the rant . . .
I'm having a hard time to insert back the new turbo coolant lines. I wish you could show us how on you video. Can you tell me how to do this? Thank you.
Hi. I wished I had the time to video me putting back the line. I put a little bit of olive oil (you can use any cooking oil) around the o-ring to help it slide into the turbo housing. the little bit of oil will not have any impact on the coolant. Then I used a pry bar to push it in place. if you are unable to use a pry bar, try to push it by hand but a long metal pry bar is best. Once it is in place, even partially, it will seat in place when you start tightening the screw. You have to take you time because it is in the dumbest area. I don't understand why MB used plastic ends that break easily. Good luck.
@@rasta997turbo9 Thank you for your reply. I am not there yet. I am trying to put the new turbo lines back to where they are. They can't seem to pass the turbo . I'm wondering if I can straighten the curl to make it more open to pass the turbo.
@@dn9822 Don't do that. You may damage the lines. You'll just have to take it slow and weave the lines around that tight space. There is a certain way it just slides into place, you just have to play with the angle.
@@rasta997turbo9 Finally I got them in. Must be very patient to get this done. Thank you for your kindly advice.
The 2 lines are now in place. I've been trying to put bolt back in for the last couple day without joy. :(
there's a really small line the branches off from resivoir and runs to right to the middle of engine above water pump. what is the name of it so i can replace it also ..thanks
Do you mean the coolant breather hose?
This one? www.autohausaz.com/pn/136943_850_4260_4579__6_6-OE-1665001091?Mercedes&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhKrkl-vU6Nhp7nm7c0nR5PFrsvs7Wx0XU1L0T18d3KoTYjnPmOh4LkaAt7zEALw_wcB
@@rasta997turbo9 yes thank you, after some digging I found the name, thank you
By any chance do you have the part number for the piece shown at 2:34, I have an E550 and can't identify it for the life of me :(
I believe this is the part you are referring to at 2:34. I got mine directly from MB because I had a small window to repair otherwise I would have ordered the parts elsewhere at a lower price. Good luck!
P/N: 2782000400 Genuine Mercedes
www.mercedesoem.parts/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-coolant-line-2782000400
www.autohausaz.com/pn/130048_850_4260_4579__6_6-MB-2782000400?Mercedes&gclid=CjwKCAjw092IBhAwEiwAxR1lRrPbYq6cI2Gn82GU3TYdVFXg6GbYH3q1uYdZ1LPAcyxT4tlvkyTOGBoCpo4QAvD_BwE
@@rasta997turbo9 Yes! This is it! Thank you so much
Where did you order your lines from
I googled the part number and ordered online from MB dealers throughout the US. You just need to search for the deals (sometimes it's worth it if shipping is reasonable). In my case I think I ordered maybe 1 or 2 hoses online and the others I purchased from a local dealer because I was on a short fuse to get it done.
One thing you should also change is the crankcase breather pipe plug. It is made of plastic and will snap with the slightest touch (THANKS MB!). While you are at it, change the breather pipe/hose as well - it's the short hose that connects to the overflow hose. These aren't expensive from the dealer and they have plenty in stock because they know these fail regularly.
www.partsgeek.com/3p9c7jx-mercedes-gl550-crankcase-breather-pipe-plug.html
www.partsgeek.com/8cc1ncb-mercedes-gl550-crankcase-breather-pipe.html?SC&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Mercedes+GL550+Crankcase+Breather+Pipe+Genuine+13-16+Mercedes+Crankcase+Breather+Pipe+2014+2015&cid=18313611776&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0vWnBhC6ARIsAJpJM6fd5Rhlmi7UB4L_dQGAd63aB4UX_6Jtw0dW4ERp4OEJnbn5uLcKafAaAgD3EALw_wcB
Was it harder to take the feeder out vs putting the new ones on
It was only challenging because of the tight space on the driver side but once it was out and you are able to place the screw that secures the lines in place, everything else is easy. Just try to follow my steps and take your time. I wouldn't say it was a hard project to tackle, just annoyingly tight on the driver side. I'm sure the dealer guys go through the same process I did. Good luck.
@@rasta997turbo9 bro I literally just finished doing it I'm sweeting my ass off omg why did have to use plastic I guess they said my made the car to perfect we need to put some plastic parts on the coolant lines so these dummies can go in to service honestly bro I just got this car I was about to get a 2013 650 gc but I new where my heart was Benz will always have my heart the way they make there cars to last is impeccable any-who thanks for the heads much love and stay safe
@@Mr.duke10783 Yah mon! I bought our GL550 with about 35k miles and the lines broke around 40k miles. Not sure why they use all those plastic bits when the lines could be aluminum in the first place. Great running cars but holy hell, the plastic bits kill me! At 48k miles now, the left front strut is knocking so I'm going to replace both fronts soon. I might make a video . . .
Glad you completed the repair. Be well!
Just got your message about the turbo tube. There's really no trick. You just gotta try and wiggle that bad boy back in. Try adding a little vaseline or a little oil around the tube to make it slick and that might help.
@@rasta997turbo9 yea sorry I deleted it because I figured it out right after I asked the question sorry and thanks again
What’s the part number for the front feeder?
If you jump to 6:52 in the video, I show a diagram of the parts and then the part numbers for each. Good luck.
So there's no real upgrade for the turbo coolant lines? it would be a shame that a very important part of the car cant be protected properly
Nope! Same stupid plastic lines. There's also a short coolant line that sits on top of the engine block (closer to the front of the engine) that needs to be replaced as well. Mine snapped off after grazing it with my hand when I was in the process of replacing the air filters.
@@rasta997turbo9 how much do u think avg indy shops charge for turbo coolant line replacements?
@@ralph02136 I've heard anywhere for $1500 to $2000. Totally worth doing it yourself (minus the bit of frustration).
@@rasta997turbo9 Does it depend on the car or would it be a similar price for all models with the m278?
@@ralph02136 not sure but I would call an indy and ask. I'm sure it'll be a slight difference.
How do I know u have a leak?
You wouldn't know unless I told you. ;) Kidding . . . I saw a puddle of water under the car in the front portion of the engine bay.
Omg I'm halfway through this job and I'm loosing my brain
Totally understand . . . MB should have made those lines out of aluminum and not aluminum and plastic. As we all know, plastic bits don't last long under those conditions.
Take a breather cause I did - many, many, many times before getting back under the car.
Designed to Fail on Time! That’s why they use plastics instead of aluminum hoses!!! Dump Benz please!