Let me ask you a few questions first. 1. Will this be your first RC, meaning will you be needing to buy batteries and charger? 2. Is money an issue? (the EXB with an M2C Galiath Chassis and "high end electronics" will be the best End game RC you can get (in my opinion). But will you take advantage of picking up the higher end electronics? So if you're going to skimp and purchase the same ESC, Motor, and Servo, for the EXB, then your sorta waisting the opportunity the high End EXB provides by giving you "the user" the opportunity to buy your own electronics. 2. But lets just say you were going to buy the same exact spectrum motor, ESC, servo, and remote receiver (provided in the V5, for the EXB) your looking at around $825.00 (unless you find a deal). $469 plus $355 for the 4 components. So 825.00 for the EXB with V5 Electronics (dont forget... ya still need battery and charger). But man, why waist the opportunity to put in higher end electronics. particularly the motor/ESC combo? Pushing the cost for the 4 components past 400 (ie... the beauty of the EXB). OR... you can buy the V5 for $570, but to get it up to par with the EXB, she needs exb rear shock tower, exb front and rear chassis mounts, exb servo mount, and the exb front upper Suspension mount, to be in the same league. All those cost ya $125 from Amazon. So now your looking at 695.00 for the V5 beefed up to the EXB level. Well what do ya know... you still have 130.00 bucks to spare. What should you do with it you might ask... uhhh... buy the M2C galiath Chassis and now you have a V5 with comparable aluminum bling as the EXB PLUS the M2C chassis for the same 825 price tag. THATS THE BETTER RIG FOR 825.00 IMO. (Still need your battery and charger). Morral of the story... go V5 if you're fine with the motors power and then upgrade it past the EXB (with the M2C Chassis) for the same price tag as the EXB. Now... if your willing to spend more money... then go with the EXB and get the M2C chassis and you'll have the best rig out there. But without the M2C Chassis... the V5 upgraded is better. hope that answers your question. Pretty much the same verdict the this video I put out a bit ago points out. ua-cam.com/video/BY1xUTTuxi0/v-deo.html
Pro tip - buy your parts from Jennysrc.com and get the same 4 components (stock V5 electronics) instead of spending $355. You'd spend $185.00!. This makes the EXB with the M2C Chassis a no brainer! Total out the gate (excluding battery and charger) with M2C Chassis is $784.00. So again... finding a deal trumps everything. (looks like the remote receiver is out of stock at the moment though).
I bought the v5 and put the EXB front and rear shock tower, the EXB braces, and the front bumper that has saved my truck so many times. I love the truck, so much fun and so many way to upgrade the truck as you go
Great info. Thanks. I'm in the process of taking apart my entire v3 after almost 2 yrs of bashing. I love that I can put pretty much any of the v5 parts on my old v3. Even my v3 has been incredibly durable. 👍
What’s up bro ? I got this one last week . The v5 for $450 . A hobby store was closing . Thanks for making these vids . I m liking taking these apart myself . I almost got the typhon 4s but then the deal on my brand new in box kraton was too good . Even though I thought it was large I went for it and glad I did . There’s a learning curve for me but I think I got most of it now . I didn’t like how my wheels were doing the Marty Feldman so I adjusted as you showed .
What Arrma needs to do is to shrink the Arrma 8s diffs and slap them on the 6s line and make the chassis at least 4mm like the 8s Arrmas. My Outcast 8s has been my most durable Arrma so far. No diffs issues or chassis and I jump it at least 15ft into the air. 👍
That’s actually not a bad idea. I’ve always been Leary with the idea of going bigger and bigger with the scale of an RC with worries that thee bigger go, the less fat you can jump it. But it’s nice to hear that the 8s line holding up so well. Thx for sharing.
The v5 remote has worked great for me so far but it’s only been a week . It’s never cut out . The new rlaarlo carbon fiber Omni terminator is also well made imo . I kinda fell into the hype early on in my RC interests and now it’s here but I m usually grabbing the Kraton v5 . Heading to get some m4 and m5 shims . The arms near the diff have a plastic piece to keep it snug .oh yeah , the servo went on the first 2ft high lawn dart , lol . No probs , it got me interested in wrenching on it and watching vids . My tires are set like like a spider stance like you reccomended .
Never heard of the V4. Just picked up one today. The $75 rebate got me. Paid $455. It's the shortest path to the Fireteam. Just swap out the Mojave chassis.
Nice comparison. Been watching a lot of vids on on this truck to see witch one to buy and yours has been the most comprehensive. Decision made V5 for me.
Thats awesome... she's a beast. Now I don't want to throw a curve ball at you. But I recently had an idea that might allow people to nab the EXB and the M2C Chassis for a killer deal. This may or may not work for ya because the inventory at the site Im about to tell you is always struggling to keep up. So going V5 is still LEGIT as all heck, especially if you can avoid what same say is just a hassle with the EXB (the diffs). That said... if you were to buy the EXB, and then jump over to Jennysrc.com and buy all the v5 electronics (ESC, Motor, Servo, and Controller/reciever) you could walk a way with the EXB with v5 electronics for a great deal, this leaving you with excess funds to nab that M2C Chassis. Most the time its really hard to find all those components in stock over at jennysrc. So the V5 rout is still an amazing route to take. Bash on Brother!!
Thank you for this, I've been looking all over for a breakdown of the differences between v4 and 5. It really did seem like an exb with an decent motor and esc combo. I already ordered my v5 because it seemed like a great value to me, upgrading from a granite 3s blx.
I have a Rustler 4 x 4 vxl which is okay but wanting something a little bigger withsome more stock speed. Even thinking about the Mojave. Hard decision
Hi, Nice video...I have a query.. should we place 2 batteries in Kraton 6s V5 or will it work with single battery? ? I am confused regarding batteries...by the way I am new to this RC thing!
You can go either way. Your rig comes capable of accepting 2, 3S batteries, Which together make your full 6s power. However, it also comes equipped with a plug terminal, which, when used can direct power into a single 6S battery, if purchased. You can go either way many people prefer dealing with 1 6S battery. Less finagling, less opportunity for an issue to arise. You have exactly 50% less likelyhood to have an issue with your battery system, because if you have two batteries, if one of them goes wrong, Even though the other ones is fine…you’re stuck without. That’s one mode of thought. Here is a video I created a while back, an absolute must watch to give you the full understanding of batteries ua-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/v-deo.htmlsi=7X6OKxRK73fv2tUO Let me know what you think
Thank u so so so so so so so so much for helping me decide which one to get because I knew before that the v4 Kraton had some flaws and I wasn’t sure if the v5 had them. If the v5 has the same flaws as the v5 I was gonna get a arena typhon but u help me make the right choice by telling me to get the arrma Kraton 6s v5
I didn't even know that the v5 had all of these upgraded exp stuff on it! great and imformitive video. I have to save my money up anyways, so I think I'll go with either the v5 or v6 when I have enough money!
The exb cause of what I do, sk8 parks are what I like, I got a e revo and it is perfect but it breaks, like all bashers do, it just breaks less, and parts are thee easiest to get but I also air out of jumps pretty high too, so..Arrma excellent choice, Traxxas great choice too, either way get out there and send it! Break it, fix it repeat! It's all fun to me...
I'm thinking of getting this for my 12 year old son... We want something strong that won't need expensive upgrades and won't break. We intend to use it as a tarmac / street rc vehicle with occasional light bash. Do you think this is a good choice? The Team Corally Shogun is weak, my cousin's Corally Shogun breaks very easily and needs repair constantly. Thank you.
The V4 and V5 are solid super tough builds from factory. Especially for light bashing. These go 50mph + though out of the box, I’m not sure how much power you want to hand to your 12 year old? It’s hard not to “big send” these bad boys. And big sends break things, and beg the need for awesome 3rd party upgrades. I just picked up the Arrma granit voltage for my 8 year old, it goes 20mph and is built well. Something to consider. You might also consider getting the Kraton 4s, lighter and quite durable. Now... here’s the scoop on rocking a 6s V5. Because breaks are part of the hobby. Upgrading is in my opinion where the fun is too! Top upgrades for the v5 The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance. Now, again... if light bashing is your thing, you may never need to visit this list... but... Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version. The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate. For more then light bashing!! 1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends Search either on UA-cam and you’ll find my vids on it. Also, making sure your droop is set properly is important to protect your rod ends. Setting droop is another video I have out there. 2. *Rpm bumper front and back (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper, also fits on back) 3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear 4. aluminum servo mount 5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing mount) 6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps, 7. M2C chassis 8. 7075 aluminum rear shock tower (M2C) 9. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear) 10. M2C rear suspension mounts (rear first) 11. M2C shock standoffs 12. M2C shock caps If you haven’t already make sure you bulletproof your differentials, 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Also make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. Naturally I’ve got lots of videos on this stuff.
T bone racing front bumper has thicker supports then the exb stock bumper. Thats what I run on my exb and it takes a lot of abuse without any wear other then the bottom which is a skid plate so thats understandable. I still have the stock exb bumper for a back up but I don't see myself ever using it unless I put a exo on my shell and I believe the exoskeleton only fits the stock exb bumper. Hard to tell from pics but thats how it appears.
@@EastTactics www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Body-Shell-Based-Chassis-Roll-Cage-Sets-for-ARRMA-KRATON-EXB-1-8-RC-Car-/313188683048 do you know if this exo will fit with the thrasher bumper ?
I bent the new rear shock tower on my first run I got the red EXB shock tower front and rear and I have not bent them yet. I put rpm rear and front arms on my v5 and the shock pins are way to long I had to order the smaller v4 pins to make them work. I would say the v5 arms front and rear stock are stronger then the rpm.
I thought they would be stronger but I'm thinking on going back to the stock arms I had to take off my rear roll bar also its not the right size for the rpm arms also
Rpm arms are legitimately strong for sure. And make for an excellent set of arms. However you simply need to change your rear shock tower to the old version if you want to rock the RPM arms. That’s my current set up on my V4. It’s funny though because I picked up a set of carbon fiber shock towers (the V5 version). However knowing that the rear shock tower is not compatible with the V4 version I have a brand new set of the V5 a arms waiting on standby for my rpm arms to break. LOL… But they just won’t break! Ha ha. All good though, because it gives me a really good reason to do some extreme bashing. I’m not sure what you mean by roll bar, are you referring to your Willie bar? Or is there some sort of special role Bar that you’re supporting that I have never seen.
@@EastTactics Just got my v5 today a bit late to the party. Do you need to bind the tx first before using? Set Throttle trim also right? Sorry im so new to this
@@blackriderph4340 It should come ready to run, So binding shouldn’t be necessary, however definitely you’re gonna want to set your steering end points on your servo. Yes I would also go in and make sure that the throttle end points are set/reset. You may want to adjust some settings on your ESC particularly your punch setting, some people adjust the break setting but most people keep that stock. I would also do a complete once over on the vehicle making sure your droop screws Are properly set, your hub nuts are set to the right tightness, no screws are loose, and clean up slop around the vehicle. Many people also recommend popping up in each differential and making sure there have been no leakage is as well as they are properly filled up enough. Most of the The above mentioned Projects can be found in my library of videos.
@@EastTactics thanks for replying Ye it was videos on the stuff that u recommended to change. Rod ends Rpm bumper M2c chasis Servo mounts Wheelie bar Shocks caps Lol basically; im getting myself a rc and im very new at this havnt got a clue.i was choosing between the arrma kraton 6s v5 or the the traxxas rustler 4x4 vxl. The arrma looks much stronger and better but there is hardly any videos i could find on how to change parts and upgrades if stuff got damaged etc. As for the traxxas thers tonnes of videos lol. Thanks in advance
On on my 2nd servo in on month. Bought a new servo yesterday centered it and endpoints were set. 10 minutes my brand new eco power servo went out. Wtf. I love the v5 but I'm scratching my head
Have you physically seen you servo saver working? Example, when your vehicle sitting in the grass or on concrete. And you attempt to turn. Look really closely at your service saver and just make 100% sure that it is twisting open and giving reprieve to the steering system
Great vid brother...did you say the exb A arms can only be ran with the V5/exb shock towers🤔. I definitely want to run those because although my rpm arms are super durable, they have a lot of flex in them that I'm not to keen on. 😉👊
Yes., The placement point for attachment has been moved on the a arms to accommodate for the difference in the shock tower. It is recommended that if you run the EXB A arms, you change over to the EXB shock tower, otherwise it simply doesn’t work out, all you have to do some funky modifications to force it to work. I asked Rich Duper bash this very question.
@@EastTactics Hahaha yeah but honestly I think this is for me and would help me learn how to use other LiPo’s because I don’t wanna be restricted to just Traxxas. At the end of the day I don’t want to launch an RC 60ft into the air like Kevin Talbot 😂
I bought a 400 oz In torque servo to make up for the 6v. It worked okay. Thats badass though. Wish I wouldve spent my money on that. But the depreciation of rc cars is ridiculous.
What do the specs say on the servo? Meaning how many ounces of torque are pushed to it when it gets 6 V versus how many ounces of torque are output when I get 7.4? You might consider installing an external BEC to take even more advantage of those high-end servos
I believe it was a 25kg servo. It says 319 at 6 I think. I'm not even sure it was rated for 7.4. it helped out and was way better than stock servo But still it was a cheap fix before I knew about becs. I bought alot cause servos burnt out or stripped alot on me. Around 300 at 6 is a sweet spot, alot of servos that are quality for a low price. I see alot of savox but those are pricey especially just for it to get ruined.
Did the v4 Arrma Kraton come with a wheelie bar? The v5 Kraton does not have a wheelie bar, correct? Do you know if a wheelie bar from the v4 will fit on the v5 Kraton without needing modification?
No the version four does not come with a Willie bar either. And yes the Willie bar will fit identically to both the version four and version five without modifications
No. The V5 comes standard with the new narrow build black (not 7075) shock tower. The new design (is said to be better Without jutting out so far) is only compatible with the EXB/V5 Beefier arms. However, If you’re looking into getting a new tower I would recommend the red 7075 EXB version. Or even better, the M2C version that’s compatible with whatever A-arms you end up going with. Arrma offers both classic (compatible w/rpm arms) or the new narrow type that’s only compatible with the thicker V5/EXB arms. The reason why it’s not compatible is because the placement where the shock rod end gets inserted into the a arms has been moved in quite a bit to accommodate for that more narrow stance. If you left the rpm a arms on then it would be too far a gap between the top of the shock tower and where the shock Rod end inserts.
@@EastTactics yeah im just going to grab a stock one for now. Just bought a m2c chassis and braces. Gonna have to wait a week till I can get the shock towers. Thanks for helping with this. I've been sending my kraton like 30plus feet to flat so its about time a just beefcake it out ya know.
The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance. Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version. The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate. 1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends Search either on UA-cam and you’ll find my vids on it 2. *Rpm bumper (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper) 3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear 4. aluminum servo mount 5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing now) 6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps, 7. M2C chassis 8. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear) 9. M2C rear suspension mounts 10. M2C shock standoffs 11. M2C shock caps If you haven’t already make sure you bulletproof your differentials, 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Also make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. Naturally I’ve got lots of videos on this stuff.
@@EastTactics I got a p30 charger and 2 HRB GRAPHENE 6S 6500 22.2V 65C LIPO BATTERIES. Videos of this 6s v5 doesn’t look very fast, what can I upgrade to make faster?
How fast are you looking to go? For me 50+ miles an hour is insane. However there are people that are much more speed hungry and want to go 70+ miles per hour. They probably should’ve picked up the typhon or the talion. But for a basher the Kraton is king! While it’s possible to hit those speeds with the Kraton it involves a massive overhaul with both your crown gear and your pinion gear. Which generally prescribes a completely different motor that’s compatible with said gearing. However with your current set up, You could always toss in a 16 or 17 tooth pinion. Keep in mind though that you throw more at the drivetrain and increase the likelihood of breaking planetary gears and differential pins When you start increasing the size of your motor pinion, Not to mention heat becomes a concern. Anything past a 16T pinion, (At least with the V4) Begs the need for a fan to be installed on your motor. I personally run a 16t pinion, As a rookie mistake in the past I installed a 20 tooth pinion and my Rear differential was not happy, Broke pins in planetary gears left and right. I’ve since dropped all the way back to the 16 T to get rid of that issue. However I could probably dabble with 17 or 18 to test the limits of how much the differential can handle. However I found myself happy at the speed that 16t provided (at least for me). If you really wanna have more power out of the gate, or off the start line I would consider putting 500,000 CST differential fluid in the center, or you might even consider doing some silicon earplugs. That’ll gets closer to doing standing backflips, Might quench your thirst for a beast off the line. However, people that Gun it off the line too much tend to strip gears and brake planetary gears and differential pins to. So maybe get some hardened steel pins from mcmaster.com. I have a video on that, helps a bit to toughen up your system. Long story short, Most of your top and speed is going to be impacted by messing with your pinion gear, and you’re off the line speed comes from thickening your differential fluid in the center (Assuming you have good traction). Heck you might even be happy just throwing in the high speed pinion gear that came with the vehicle. Jumping from 13 to 15. You’ll notice it. Although that was for the V4 stock. I’m not 100% sure what Arma tossed into the V5, how many teeth does the pinion gear have that it came with? And how many teeth does the high speed Have now?
Yes, In fact that would be a nice upgrade because you are then we putting 7.4 V towards her servo. Assuming your current servo is compatible with the higher voltage. The stock one is not.
Not sure, I run a completely tanked out V4 and I got rid of the spectrum Stx2 On day one. I picked up the reliable tactic that was released back in the day with v3 models. I’ve only seen one person make a complaint about the range of the new receiver and controller that comes with the V5, and many say that it works fine for them. But what I can tell you is it is far and above better than the STX2.
7075 is a higher quality aluminum. But it is still aluminum and not stainless steel by any leap of the imagination. Just a critique or possible edit/addendum of your otherwise awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
@@EastTactics I know it was a easy mixup . I know You know your shit, just thought of the newbies / future newbies. I'm excited about he V5 changes, I honestly think that the safe-d input cup will be surprisingly one of the best upgrades. I have a feeling that the previous input cups have a tendency to become out of true and puts a lot of harmonic tension on the bearing and input gear causing mesh issues with the input and crown gear of the front / rear differential resulting in teeth being worn /chipped in correlation to the imbalance starting at the input cup/dogbones . Not to mention bearing failure /excess heat warping the bulkhead etc. Edit:just a theory
Are you referring to the shock tower? If you’re referring to the shock tower then the EXB takes the more narrow based version. The one that does not have elongated ears If you’re not talking about the shock tower. What aluminum component exactly are you talking about?
@@EastTactics I’m talking about the braces for a regular Kraton 6s and I came in with some issues with mine the car turns on but won’t respond with the remote any idea?
Which version? I assume you got the EXB? As far as This upper hinge piece … Nothing, It’s the same piece is the kraton EXB. If you win simply make sure I send you the pins. Or if you’re looking to replace it on your own, simply check the description for a link to the pins from Amazon. And the link to M2C’s site for the upper hinge pin brace. 😎👍
Lol I replied to you, assuming you were commenting in my latest video. Travel there though if you do want to participate in the drawing. ua-cam.com/video/tbsoHWkqd-Y/v-deo.html Now in regards to your actual question, believe it or not the Talion is a similar platform in that it uses the exact same loadout for the a-arms as the Kraton, same driveshafts even. The center of the vehicle is different in that the front center driveshaft and the rear center driveshaft on the load out is actually in reverse. So the length and width of the vehicle essentially are the same as the kraton. And then of course you’re body mounts and shock towers are lower profile as well as your spoiler. Naturally it comes with different tires leaning more towards Speed and away from bashing. Other than that essentially they’re the same rig but quite frankly those differences are pretty substantial. Your rig is going to be great for bashing still, likely a bit faster and more nimble with the smaller tires and lower profile body. As far as upgrades go the same overall concepts still apply in correlation to what you watched in the video. I’m pretty sure the differences between the V5 and the EXB are going to be very similar. But don’t quote me on that. Hope that answers your question
@@EastTactics thats not exactly what I meant, were the hinge pins slide into the chassis for the a arms is a little thicker then the v4. Like were the aluminum hinge pin plate is, the plastic has more material. I just got my first arrma/ kraton v5 product a couple weeks ago haven't had much time to run as there's snow on the ground and I am a new father, baby takes my time. Thanks for the great video.
@@EastTactics i have only got to rip it in my garage for 5 mins so I can't tell you much , I'll just watch another review of the v5 and buddy was having range issues. Its easy to program i up the punch level too 7 next well be 9. Steering seems good with mine.
Hey someone help please what is better to do run 2 3s battery or one 6s battery then what do you look for if you want power and long run time. I’m new so please help.
Honestly… It is better to run 1 6s battery in my opinion because it’s less maintenance and you don’t have to worry about the fact If one of them goes bad then you’re basically stuck trying to find the exact same brand again which sometimes is hard to do. In other words babysitting one battery and keeping it in good condition is easier than taking care of two. Also don’t get confused thinking that 2 3S batteries is actually more runtime. For example two 5000 mAh 3S batteries is not actually the equivalent of 10,000 mAh. At 6s it is only 5000 mAh, The same runtime as one single 5000 mAh battery. Another benefit of running a single battery is that you only need to have a charger with one charging port. Technically that saves you money. Now if you already have a charger that can charge two batteries at once and I guess that wouldn’t matter. If you want a long run time then simply spend more money on higher milliamps. For instance I’ve seen 1 6S battery go as high as 8000, even 10,000. They are just much more expensive. Again if you bought two 8000 mA 3S batteries it would be exactly the same runtime as 1 6s 8000 mA battery. Now… If you’re a glutton for the best of the best then you’re gonna want to buy a battery with a high C rating, it’s pretty negligible noticing any difference between a battery that has 50 C rating versus 100 C rating. But some people really like that extra burst of power that your higher see rating batteries provide.
@@EastTactics thank you so much I got an armma talion v4 coming in mail but no battery but any info helped. I will remember what you said thank you again. Any opinion on what your favorite is
Not particularly, honestly your best bet is to just buy your battery from a local hobby shop it’s nice to support them sometimes and if it’s a quality hobby grade store they’ll have some quality batteries in stock. If your new to RC this is a good vid to watch ua-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/v-deo.html So the only advantage of running to3S batteries is if you want to take it vantage of running your vehicle at half power. There is a way to run your vehicle with a single 3S battery. Honestly I thought I would like that feature so I originally did go with 2 3s batteries however I never ended up using it. Then down the road one of my batteries wire terminals went bad and I had to get rid of it. Then I couldn’t find the same brand anywhere so I ended up having a single 3S battery with no partner and I really want them to be the exact same brand and same model. So I switch to the success and I’ve liked it more since then
The v5 uses the traditional V4 diffs. The Exb uses newly designed diff assemblies that incorporate limited slip into the center and front. Literally every part of the EXB differential set up is redesigned, the cups are smaller, the gears are different, even the outdrives are fatter. There’s really no backwards compatibility between the V4/5 differentials and The EXB. That said… It is completely possible for you to install the complete set up of an EXB differential into A V4/v5. It just has to be the assembly as a whole. Does that answer your question?
The problem with the exb was the rear diff my exb went back after the diff broke after a light run it had the correct amount of shims would like the v5 just a bit worried history repeats itself
I heard of people having problems with the rear differential on the EXB. However it was due to them thinking it was properly shimmed from the factory. When In fact it wasn’t. That aside, you certainly can drop a version 4/5 differential into the EXB If you wanted I don’t see why you couldn’t. But you would have to make sure you replace the input gear as well.
@@EastTactics before my exb went back the shop they asked me to take the rear diff apart the teeth were destroyed according to the manual it did have the correct shims in it I know some had some missing but mine didn’t
I mean sure, you can buy a brand new ESC for 120. But the value of just going the BEC route is the fact that you can actually have one of those for anywhere between 15 and $40. So yeah.
Is that the skid plate that I noticed Kevin Talbert had a friend who was launching as a new assessory? Or is this a custom skid plate you created? Do you have the V5? Did you already bend your chassis? Also if that skid plate is an actual product you acquired maybe you can drop a link for everyone who might be interested in it. Bash on my friend
@@EastTactics I,m from germany and we got several people here, that cast or cnc skidplates to protect chassis from scratching and most importantly bending. You can get a rear skidplate for 30 bucks. Unfortunately I think nobody makes these in the US. I recently had a 5 meter (16 ft) fall on my rear with my kraton v4 and everything is perfectly straight still. a link to a german shop, so you can see what the product is like: www.spielzeug-apen.de/blr-shop/298647/skidplate-set-arrma-v5?c=357
KRATON 6s EXB or KRATON 6s v5 Which one you will pick and why.
Let me ask you a few questions first.
1. Will this be your first RC, meaning will you be needing to buy batteries and charger?
2. Is money an issue? (the EXB with an M2C Galiath Chassis and "high end electronics" will be the best End game RC you can get (in my opinion). But will you take advantage of picking up the higher end electronics?
So if you're going to skimp and purchase the same ESC, Motor, and Servo, for the EXB, then your sorta waisting the opportunity the high End EXB provides by giving you "the user" the opportunity to buy your own electronics.
2. But lets just say you were going to buy the same exact spectrum motor, ESC, servo, and remote receiver (provided in the V5, for the EXB) your looking at around $825.00 (unless you find a deal). $469 plus $355 for the 4 components. So 825.00 for the EXB with V5 Electronics (dont forget... ya still need battery and charger). But man, why waist the opportunity to put in higher end electronics. particularly the motor/ESC combo? Pushing the cost for the 4 components past 400 (ie... the beauty of the EXB).
OR... you can buy the V5 for $570, but to get it up to par with the EXB, she needs exb rear shock tower, exb front and rear chassis mounts, exb servo mount, and the exb front upper Suspension mount, to be in the same league. All those cost ya $125 from Amazon. So now your looking at 695.00 for the V5 beefed up to the EXB level. Well what do ya know... you still have 130.00 bucks to spare. What should you do with it you might ask... uhhh... buy the M2C galiath Chassis and now you have a V5 with comparable aluminum bling as the EXB PLUS the M2C chassis for the same 825 price tag. THATS THE BETTER RIG FOR 825.00 IMO. (Still need your battery and charger).
Morral of the story... go V5 if you're fine with the motors power and then upgrade it past the EXB (with the M2C Chassis) for the same price tag as the EXB.
Now... if your willing to spend more money... then go with the EXB and get the M2C chassis and you'll have the best rig out there. But without the M2C Chassis... the V5 upgraded is better.
hope that answers your question. Pretty much the same verdict the this video I put out a bit ago points out.
ua-cam.com/video/BY1xUTTuxi0/v-deo.html
Pro tip - buy your parts from Jennysrc.com and get the same 4 components (stock V5 electronics) instead of spending $355. You'd spend $185.00!.
This makes the EXB with the M2C Chassis a no brainer! Total out the gate (excluding battery and charger) with M2C Chassis is $784.00.
So again... finding a deal trumps everything.
(looks like the remote receiver is out of stock at the moment though).
Tank you very much this help me a lot
I bought the v5 and put the EXB front and rear shock tower, the EXB braces, and the front bumper that has saved my truck so many times. I love the truck, so much fun and so many way to upgrade the truck as you go
@@EastTactics you are SO helpful. New sub
Great info.. I'm from Malaysia 🇲🇾
Thanks and welcome to my channel. Ever have a question, let me know
Great info. Thanks. I'm in the process of taking apart my entire v3 after almost 2 yrs of bashing. I love that I can put pretty much any of the v5 parts on my old v3. Even my v3 has been incredibly durable. 👍
arrma is pretty great
I like videos like this. I've got a Talion version 1 (she's still holding up strong) and am always keeping my eye on major changes between versions.
What’s up bro ? I got this one last week . The v5 for $450 . A hobby store was closing . Thanks for making these vids . I m liking taking these apart myself . I almost got the typhon 4s but then the deal on my brand new in box kraton was too good . Even though I thought it was large I went for it and glad I did . There’s a learning curve for me but I think I got most of it now . I didn’t like how my wheels were doing the Marty Feldman so I adjusted as you showed .
You’ll be a veteran in no time!
What Arrma needs to do is to shrink the Arrma 8s diffs and slap them on the 6s line and make the chassis at least 4mm like the 8s Arrmas. My Outcast 8s has been my most durable Arrma so far. No diffs issues or chassis and I jump it at least 15ft into the air. 👍
That’s actually not a bad idea. I’ve always been Leary with the idea of going bigger and bigger with the scale of an RC with worries that thee bigger go, the less fat you can jump it. But it’s nice to hear that the 8s line holding up so well. Thx for sharing.
The way you advertise your channel is spot on
Great video
Thx CMW, appreciate the comment. Glad the vid was helpful.👍
@@EastTactics it was perfect as I want to by a Kraton for a project this video helped
The v5 remote has worked great for me so far but it’s only been a week . It’s never cut out . The new rlaarlo carbon fiber Omni terminator is also well made imo . I kinda fell into the hype early on in my RC interests and now it’s here but I m usually grabbing the Kraton v5 . Heading to get some m4 and m5 shims . The arms near the diff have a plastic piece to keep it snug .oh yeah , the servo went on the first 2ft high lawn dart , lol . No probs , it got me interested in wrenching on it and watching vids . My tires are set like like a spider stance like you reccomended .
Very nice! Glad your in the hobbie, and are finding my vids helpful. 🤜🤛
Never heard of the V4. Just picked up one today. The $75 rebate got me. Paid $455. It's the shortest path to the Fireteam. Just swap out the Mojave chassis.
Great Video and Thank You for the cue for the UPGRADE
Nice comparison. Been watching a lot of vids on on this truck to see witch one to buy and yours has been the most comprehensive. Decision made V5 for me.
Thats awesome... she's a beast.
Now I don't want to throw a curve ball at you. But I recently had an idea that might allow people to nab the EXB and the M2C Chassis for a killer deal. This may or may not work for ya because the inventory at the site Im about to tell you is always struggling to keep up. So going V5 is still LEGIT as all heck, especially if you can avoid what same say is just a hassle with the EXB (the diffs).
That said... if you were to buy the EXB, and then jump over to Jennysrc.com and buy all the v5 electronics (ESC, Motor, Servo, and Controller/reciever) you could walk a way with the EXB with v5 electronics for a great deal, this leaving you with excess funds to nab that M2C Chassis.
Most the time its really hard to find all those components in stock over at jennysrc. So the V5 rout is still an amazing route to take. Bash on Brother!!
There is also an option that you can buy a bash bar that bolts to the bottom of the chassis. Radicalrcuk has them.
Very helpful video. I always appreciate your insight and point of view. Thanks. 🤘🏽
Thank you for this, I've been looking all over for a breakdown of the differences between v4 and 5. It really did seem like an exb with an decent motor and esc combo. I already ordered my v5 because it seemed like a great value to me, upgrading from a granite 3s blx.
Great video! Appreciate the effort it take to make a video like this !
Thanks!
Just got the kraton 6s v5 blx. Thing is awesome. Has a few needed upgrades and the diffs wheee dry but man what a monster.
Your in a fun and rewarding journey. Glad you found my channel. Ever need anything don’t hesitate to ask
Nothing beats the x-max I love it
Why do all companies insist on calling it a basher and then give you a tiny front bumper so you can smash your shocks and arms off without a sweat
I know right! Grab that EXB bumper ASAP. I’ve even got plans to retrofit oneto the rear!
@@EastTactics oh I already got an rpm wide bumper for my v5. I already learned my lessons with the Typhon lol
@@LulzRoyce oh.. the RPM bumper is legit. It’s actually what I’m currently running to!
That black pack on the esc is a cat pack to help power draw. And cutouts of the esc
Interesting, thanks for sharing that
I got a 30 $ banggood special, put my draggy on it and clocked 117 kph
Nice video, great work, very informative 👍🏻🇺🇸
Thanks for the kind words 👍
That was my biggest surprise was they got rid of the bikini chassis, and it is stamped.
Trying to make up my mind between thisor the Typhon. I believe this will be my choice simply because can run it in taller grass or blacktop
For my first rig, I would definitely go Kraton
I have a Rustler 4 x 4 vxl which is okay but wanting something a little bigger withsome more stock speed. Even thinking about the Mojave. Hard decision
For me, the EXB was a better buy. I had a XR8 plus, CC MM 2200kv, and hv Corrally servo in my toolbox :-D
Hi, Nice video...I have a query.. should we place 2 batteries in Kraton 6s V5 or will it work with single battery? ? I am confused regarding batteries...by the way I am new to this RC thing!
You can go either way. Your rig comes capable of accepting 2, 3S batteries, Which together make your full 6s power.
However, it also comes equipped with a plug terminal, which, when used can direct power into a single 6S battery, if purchased.
You can go either way many people prefer dealing with 1 6S battery. Less finagling, less opportunity for an issue to arise. You have exactly 50% less likelyhood to have an issue with your battery system, because if you have two batteries, if one of them goes wrong, Even though the other ones is fine…you’re stuck without. That’s one mode of thought.
Here is a video I created a while back, an absolute must watch to give you the full understanding of batteries
ua-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/v-deo.htmlsi=7X6OKxRK73fv2tUO
Let me know what you think
I want to buy a new rc car.But i cant decide between E Revo 2.0 and Arrma Kraton 6s V5.I want a stable rc car that makes fun and have good quality.
im looking forward to driving the new v5 receiver with that nice receiver. i just need to make sure i got enough receivers charged
Thank u so so so so so so so so much for helping me decide which one to get because I knew before that the v4 Kraton had some flaws and I wasn’t sure if the v5 had them. If the v5 has the same flaws as the v5 I was gonna get a arena typhon but u help me make the right choice by telling me to get the arrma Kraton 6s v5
Awesome, glad I could help Brother!
V5 looks Beautiful
Great channel/videos!
I didn't even know that the v5 had all of these upgraded exp stuff on it! great and imformitive video. I have to save my money up anyways, so I think I'll go with either the v5 or v6 when I have enough money!
I love my honor version 5 kratton
I picked up my 4s 110 kraton 2400kv Motor back on May of 2020
The exb cause of what I do, sk8 parks are what I like, I got a e revo and it is perfect but it breaks, like all bashers do, it just breaks less, and parts are thee easiest to get but I also air out of jumps pretty high too, so..Arrma excellent choice, Traxxas great choice too, either way get out there and send it! Break it, fix it repeat! It's all fun to me...
I'm a new subscriber love the video great job I love my armor and I love my traxxases I own 19 RCs
Nice! Thx for subbing!!
honestly im kind of sad they dont have a new body and i bought the v4 legit a day before the v5 came out... i spent 600
Rekt
@@yamkaw346 Logan the bitch, thanks for comin' out!
@@BlvlWmpower aw man😔
Do we really care though? This thing is an absolute beast
600?!?! I spent 1400 all up including a 6s Lipo. Maybe cause I'm AUD. Lucky you USD fellas haha
The v5 gear differentials are harder too
What diff fluids for the center do you recommend ? Thanks
500k
Or pop in silicon earplugs (equivalent to 1mill)
Nearly locking the center. But many like it. Minimizes tire ballooning. If it’s an issue
I like what you're doing. Thank you I have different things I tried that work I would be more than happy to share with you.
I'm so HAPPY #M2C Mitch is making stuff for the 3s/4s platforms! So awesome!
I know right!!! That is awesome!!
Top walk through of the new v5 kraton, typhon etc👊
Thx brother!
I'm thinking of getting this for my 12 year old son... We want something strong that won't need expensive upgrades and won't break. We intend to use it as a tarmac / street rc vehicle with occasional light bash. Do you think this is a good choice? The Team Corally Shogun is weak, my cousin's Corally Shogun breaks very easily and needs repair constantly.
Thank you.
The V4 and V5 are solid super tough builds from factory. Especially for light bashing.
These go 50mph + though out of the box, I’m not sure how much power you want to hand to your 12 year old? It’s hard not to “big send” these bad boys. And big sends break things, and beg the need for awesome 3rd party upgrades.
I just picked up the Arrma granit voltage for my 8 year old, it goes 20mph and is built well. Something to consider. You might also consider getting the Kraton 4s, lighter and quite durable.
Now... here’s the scoop on rocking a 6s V5. Because breaks are part of the hobby.
Upgrading is in my opinion where the fun is too!
Top upgrades for the v5
The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance.
Now, again... if light bashing is your thing, you may never need to visit this list... but...
Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version.
The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate.
For more then light bashing!!
1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends
Search either on UA-cam and you’ll find my vids on it. Also, making sure your droop is set properly is important to protect your rod ends. Setting droop is another video I have out there.
2. *Rpm bumper front and back (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper, also fits on back)
3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear
4. aluminum servo mount
5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing mount)
6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation
If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps,
7. M2C chassis
8. 7075 aluminum rear shock tower (M2C)
9. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear)
10. M2C rear suspension mounts (rear first)
11. M2C shock standoffs
12. M2C shock caps
If you haven’t already make sure you bulletproof your differentials, 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Also make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. Naturally I’ve got lots of videos on this stuff.
T bone racing front bumper has thicker supports then the exb stock bumper. Thats what I run on my exb and it takes a lot of abuse without any wear other then the bottom which is a skid plate so thats understandable. I still have the stock exb bumper for a back up but I don't see myself ever using it unless I put a exo on my shell and I believe the exoskeleton only fits the stock exb bumper. Hard to tell from pics but thats how it appears.
Which model T-bone racing bumper are you referring to?
@@EastTactics TBR Thrasher Front Bumper -- Arrma Kraton 6S BLX - 10074
@@EastTactics www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Body-Shell-Based-Chassis-Roll-Cage-Sets-for-ARRMA-KRATON-EXB-1-8-RC-Car-/313188683048 do you know if this exo will fit with the thrasher bumper ?
Just purchased my kraton exb from larrys in michigan for 619. Couldnt pass it up.
Nice! Great deal!
Great video very informative the EXB with the V5’s electrics is tempting ! Just viewed one on eBay at £610 around $830 plus delivery 🤔
Yes… The key is getting your V5 electronics from Jennings RC or other “breakers”. $185 vs $350 For the four key electronic components
Great video as usual. Thank you!
Sorry to correct you , Im sure you meant 7075 Aluminium, Not Steel.
Yeah... That’s what I meant LOL my bad
Or steal
I bent the new rear shock tower on my first run I got the red EXB shock tower front and rear and I have not bent them yet. I put rpm rear and front arms on my v5 and the shock pins are way to long I had to order the smaller v4 pins to make them work. I would say the v5 arms front and rear stock are stronger then the rpm.
that makes sense about the tower, hopefully arrmas red version holds up for you. So why did you switch to the RPM arms?
I thought they would be stronger but I'm thinking on going back to the stock arms I had to take off my rear roll bar also its not the right size for the rpm arms also
Rpm arms are legitimately strong for sure. And make for an excellent set of arms. However you simply need to change your rear shock tower to the old version if you want to rock the RPM arms. That’s my current set up on my V4. It’s funny though because I picked up a set of carbon fiber shock towers (the V5 version). However knowing that the rear shock tower is not compatible with the V4 version I have a brand new set of the V5 a arms waiting on standby for my rpm arms to break. LOL… But they just won’t break! Ha ha.
All good though, because it gives me a really good reason to do some extreme bashing.
I’m not sure what you mean by roll bar, are you referring to your Willie bar? Or is there some sort of special role Bar that you’re supporting that I have never seen.
Great video! Just what i was looking for. Irregardless isn't a real word. Just FYI. LoL. Cheers. Keep bashin'!
thanks dude
did you get your bumper ?
The EXB, yes. And I have a newer vid for the best rear bumper. Check it out
What battery connector does kraton 6s v5 use? Xt90 or ic5? Thanks! New sub
I’m pretty sure it’s XT90 off of the ESC.However you can use an ic5 and connect that into it. They are compatible
@@EastTactics i watched a LOT of your videos and dude you’re like the GOD of arrma. Thanks! Big help!
@@blackriderph4340 wow! Thanks!!
@@EastTactics Just got my v5 today a bit late to the party. Do you need to bind the tx first before using? Set Throttle trim also right? Sorry im so new to this
@@blackriderph4340
It should come ready to run, So binding shouldn’t be necessary, however definitely you’re gonna want to set your steering end points on your servo. Yes I would also go in and make sure that the throttle end points are set/reset.
You may want to adjust some settings on your ESC particularly your punch setting, some people adjust the break setting but most people keep that stock.
I would also do a complete once over on the vehicle making sure your droop screws Are properly set, your hub nuts are set to the right tightness, no screws are loose, and clean up slop around the vehicle.
Many people also recommend popping up in each differential and making sure there have been no leakage is as well as they are properly filled up enough.
Most of the The above mentioned Projects can be found in my library of videos.
Awesome video. Do you have step by step videos on how to change parts ?thanks
It’s pretty likely, anything particularly you’re looking for? I’ll try to point you in the right direction.
@@EastTactics thanks for replying
Ye it was videos on the stuff that u recommended to change.
Rod ends
Rpm bumper
M2c chasis
Servo mounts
Wheelie bar
Shocks caps
Lol basically; im getting myself a rc and im very new at this havnt got a clue.i was choosing between the arrma kraton 6s v5 or the the traxxas rustler 4x4 vxl. The arrma looks much stronger and better but there is hardly any videos i could find on how to change parts and upgrades if stuff got damaged etc. As for the traxxas thers tonnes of videos lol. Thanks in advance
On on my 2nd servo in on month. Bought a new servo yesterday centered it and endpoints were set. 10 minutes my brand new eco power servo went out. Wtf. I love the v5 but I'm scratching my head
Have you physically seen you servo saver working?
Example, when your vehicle sitting in the grass or on concrete. And you attempt to turn. Look really closely at your service saver and just make 100% sure that it is twisting open and giving reprieve to the steering system
@@EastTactics yes it worked for ten minutes and then went left and stayed left
Great vid brother...did you say the exb A arms can only be ran with the V5/exb shock towers🤔. I definitely want to run those because although my rpm arms are super durable, they have a lot of flex in them that I'm not to keen on. 😉👊
Yes., The placement point for attachment has been moved on the a arms to accommodate for the difference in the shock tower.
It is recommended that if you run the EXB A arms, you change over to the EXB shock tower, otherwise it simply doesn’t work out, all you have to do some funky modifications to force it to work. I asked Rich Duper bash this very question.
What cooling fans are you using on your Kraton? They look massive!
Great question!
DIY RC High powered fans ua-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV9w_KTuR7N0l-ygVhWPtNVw.html
@@EastTactics Awesome thank you! I'll check out those vids and see what I'm gonna add to my RCs.
Should I buy the Maxx or this? Thanks!
This off course… cuz then you”lol have me to soundboard off of for your upgrade journey.
Really tho… both are amazing!
@@EastTactics Hahaha yeah but honestly I think this is for me and would help me learn how to use other LiPo’s because I don’t wanna be restricted to just Traxxas. At the end of the day I don’t want to launch an RC 60ft into the air like Kevin Talbot 😂
Makes sense😎👍
I bought a 400 oz In torque servo to make up for the 6v. It worked okay. Thats badass though. Wish I wouldve spent my money on that. But the depreciation of rc cars is ridiculous.
What do the specs say on the servo? Meaning how many ounces of torque are pushed to it when it gets 6 V versus how many ounces of torque are output when I get 7.4? You might consider installing an external BEC to take even more advantage of those high-end servos
I believe it was a 25kg servo. It says 319 at 6 I think. I'm not even sure it was rated for 7.4. it helped out and was way better than stock servo But still it was a cheap fix before I knew about becs. I bought alot cause servos burnt out or stripped alot on me. Around 300 at 6 is a sweet spot, alot of servos that are quality for a low price. I see alot of savox but those are pricey especially just for it to get ruined.
The stx 2 works good for me
Did the v4 Arrma Kraton come with a wheelie bar? The v5 Kraton does not have a wheelie bar, correct? Do you know if a wheelie bar from the v4 will fit on the v5 Kraton without needing modification?
No the version four does not come with a Willie bar either. And yes the Willie bar will fit identically to both the version four and version five without modifications
@@EastTactics Thanks! I thought the v4 came with a wheelie bar. I know one of the versions did. Maybe the 4s Kraton. IDK!
I have a 4s 110 kraton 2400kv Motor very fast scary
Will a HRB GRAPHENE 6S 6500 22.2V 65C LIPO BATTERY fit in the Arrma Kraton 6s battery box? Battery dimensions is 138.00mm x 45.00mm x 68.00mm
Ya, it would fit
Awesome info broo 👍👍
Good review buddy like it 🤟
Hey do the v5 shocktowers fit the v4 with rpm arms?
No. The V5 comes standard with the new narrow build black (not 7075) shock tower. The new design (is said to be better Without jutting out so far) is only compatible with the EXB/V5 Beefier arms.
However, If you’re looking into getting a new tower I would recommend the red 7075 EXB version. Or even better, the M2C version that’s compatible with whatever A-arms you end up going with. Arrma offers both classic (compatible w/rpm arms) or the new narrow type that’s only compatible with the thicker V5/EXB arms.
The reason why it’s not compatible is because the placement where the shock rod end gets inserted into the a arms has been moved in quite a bit to accommodate for that more narrow stance. If you left the rpm a arms on then it would be too far a gap between the top of the shock tower and where the shock Rod end inserts.
Re read the above response, I corrected my self I just want to make sure you catch it.
@@EastTactics yeah im just going to grab a stock one for now. Just bought a m2c chassis and braces. Gonna have to wait a week till I can get the shock towers. Thanks for helping with this. I've been sending my kraton like 30plus feet to flat so its about time a just beefcake it out ya know.
I hear ya. I still pinch my self that there’s RC’s that exist at this level!
What are the key upgrades for the kraton 6s v5? I just bought one!
The Kraton v5 is definitely solid. As far as the only thing that you’re really want to upgrade now, considering she comes packed with a lot of really good in the box upgrades. Are the following. In order of importance.
Now don’t feel overwhelmed by all these upgrades, just feel grateful that these things are available and can be assessed overtime. The funnest thing about this hobby is getting out there having fun and when you break something simply buy the upgraded version.
The ones that are starred with an Asterix are ones I would seriously consider out the gate.
1.*HD rod ends (or search DIY rod ends
Search either on UA-cam and you’ll find my vids on it
2. *Rpm bumper (or if you can find it you could toss on the EXB front bumper)
3.*Aluminum chassis braces front and rear
4. aluminum servo mount
5. Willie bar (seriously protects your wing now)
6. Watch my playlist on shock mitigation
If you really want to start sending it like insane jumps,
7. M2C chassis
8. Hot racing Diff houses (Front and rear)
9. M2C rear suspension mounts
10. M2C shock standoffs
11. M2C shock caps
If you haven’t already make sure you bulletproof your differentials, 20 K rear, 200 to 500 K Center, and 80 K front. Also make sure they’re shimmed correctly both inside and out. Naturally I’ve got lots of videos on this stuff.
@@EastTactics I got a p30 charger and 2 HRB GRAPHENE 6S 6500 22.2V 65C LIPO BATTERIES. Videos of this 6s v5 doesn’t look very fast, what can I upgrade to make faster?
How fast are you looking to go? For me 50+ miles an hour is insane. However there are people that are much more speed hungry and want to go 70+ miles per hour. They probably should’ve picked up the typhon or the talion. But for a basher the Kraton is king!
While it’s possible to hit those speeds with the Kraton it involves a massive overhaul with both your crown gear and your pinion gear. Which generally prescribes a completely different motor that’s compatible with said gearing.
However with your current set up, You could always toss in a 16 or 17 tooth pinion. Keep in mind though that you throw more at the drivetrain and increase the likelihood of breaking planetary gears and differential pins When you start increasing the size of your motor pinion, Not to mention heat becomes a concern. Anything past a 16T pinion, (At least with the V4) Begs the need for a fan to be installed on your motor.
I personally run a 16t pinion, As a rookie mistake in the past I installed a 20 tooth pinion and my Rear differential was not happy, Broke pins in planetary gears left and right. I’ve since dropped all the way back to the 16 T to get rid of that issue. However I could probably dabble with 17 or 18 to test the limits of how much the differential can handle. However I found myself happy at the speed that 16t provided (at least for me).
If you really wanna have more power out of the gate, or off the start line I would consider putting 500,000 CST differential fluid in the center, or you might even consider doing some silicon earplugs. That’ll gets closer to doing standing backflips, Might quench your thirst for a beast off the line. However, people that Gun it off the line too much tend to strip gears and brake planetary gears and differential pins to. So maybe get some hardened steel pins from mcmaster.com. I have a video on that, helps a bit to toughen up your system. Long story short, Most of your top and speed is going to be impacted by messing with your pinion gear, and you’re off the line speed comes from thickening your differential fluid in the center (Assuming you have good traction). Heck you might even be happy just throwing in the high speed pinion gear that came with the vehicle. Jumping from 13 to 15. You’ll notice it.
Although that was for the V4 stock. I’m not 100% sure what Arma tossed into the V5, how many teeth does the pinion gear have that it came with? And how many teeth does the high speed Have now?
Can I use the V5 ESC on my V4 keeping the original motor?
Yes, In fact that would be a nice upgrade because you are then we putting 7.4 V towards her servo. Assuming your current servo is compatible with the higher voltage. The stock one is not.
@@EastTactics yeah I have a Savox SA1230 servo
What's the range like because everyone's saying its bad and loses connection fast
Not sure, I run a completely tanked out V4 and I got rid of the spectrum Stx2 On day one. I picked up the reliable tactic that was released back in the day with v3 models.
I’ve only seen one person make a complaint about the range of the new receiver and controller that comes with the V5, and many say that it works fine for them. But what I can tell you is it is far and above better than the STX2.
7075 is a higher quality aluminum. But it is still aluminum and not stainless steel by any leap of the imagination. Just a critique or possible edit/addendum of your otherwise awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah…your right. Misspoke on my part.
@@EastTactics I know it was a easy mixup . I know You know your shit, just thought of the newbies / future newbies. I'm excited about he V5 changes, I honestly think that the safe-d input cup will be surprisingly one of the best upgrades. I have a feeling that the previous input cups have a tendency to become out of true and puts a lot of harmonic tension on the bearing and input gear causing mesh issues with the input and crown gear of the front / rear differential resulting in teeth being worn /chipped in correlation to the imbalance starting at the input cup/dogbones . Not to mention bearing failure /excess heat warping the bulkhead etc.
Edit:just a theory
I’m trying get tha Exb but it’s back order
Lots of info👍
what exb aluminum size do I want to get for the rear when upgrading there is 2. 120mm or 140mm?
Are you referring to the shock tower? If you’re referring to the shock tower then the EXB takes the more narrow based version. The one that does not have elongated ears
If you’re not talking about the shock tower. What aluminum component exactly are you talking about?
@@EastTactics I’m talking about the braces for a regular Kraton 6s and I came in with some issues with mine the car turns on but won’t respond with the remote any idea?
I paid! $900 Dollars for my 2020 FOR my 4s 110 kraton
I just got a Talion so what's the difference
Which version? I assume you got the EXB?
As far as This upper hinge piece … Nothing, It’s the same piece is the kraton EXB.
If you win simply make sure I send you the pins.
Or if you’re looking to replace it on your own, simply check the description for a link to the pins from Amazon. And the link to M2C’s site for the upper hinge pin brace. 😎👍
Lol I replied to you, assuming you were commenting in my latest video. Travel there though if you do want to participate in the drawing.
ua-cam.com/video/tbsoHWkqd-Y/v-deo.html
Now in regards to your actual question, believe it or not the Talion is a similar platform in that it uses the exact same loadout for the a-arms as the Kraton, same driveshafts even.
The center of the vehicle is different in that the front center driveshaft and the rear center driveshaft on the load out is actually in reverse. So the length and width of the vehicle essentially are the same as the kraton. And then of course you’re body mounts and shock towers are lower profile as well as your spoiler.
Naturally it comes with different tires leaning more towards Speed and away from bashing.
Other than that essentially they’re the same rig but quite frankly those differences are pretty substantial. Your rig is going to be great for bashing still, likely a bit faster and more nimble with the smaller tires and lower profile body.
As far as upgrades go the same overall concepts still apply in correlation to what you watched in the video. I’m pretty sure the differences between the V5 and the EXB are going to be very similar. But don’t quote me on that.
Hope that answers your question
Instead of buying new 1 iam just going to upgrade my 4s kraton 110 2400kv Motor
Im getting stronger arms front and back
Never had a problems with battery Tray
AND anew front bumper that covers hole front of Truck
Maybe NEW Esc
And put a order in for blue 4s kraton body
Were the a arms connected to chassis are also thicker then the v4.
Yes. The v5 inherited the exb arms. Which are beefier, and support the new rear (narrower) shock tower.
@@EastTactics thats not exactly what I meant, were the hinge pins slide into the chassis for the a arms is a little thicker then the v4. Like were the aluminum hinge pin plate is, the plastic has more material. I just got my first arrma/ kraton v5 product a couple weeks ago haven't had much time to run as there's snow on the ground and I am a new father, baby takes my time. Thanks for the great video.
@@EastTactics i guess there's still a little issue with the radio/ remote.
What are you experiencing?
@@EastTactics i have only got to rip it in my garage for 5 mins so I can't tell you much , I'll just watch another review of the v5 and buddy was having range issues. Its easy to program i up the punch level too 7 next well be 9. Steering seems good with mine.
WHO LEFT THE DISLIKE.
SCREWBALL.
Big like from me. ❤️👊😀
Thx! 💪👍😎😜
@@EastTactics gotta love it when haters are notified of new vids lol
Bieber fans.
Me. Just get to the point!! Spent the first 4.5 mins talking about an old video he made. Just add a link and move on
@@damoknows1543 we are what we say I moved on from something so should you possibly this ain’t your like it seems.
Hey someone help please what is better to do run 2 3s battery or one 6s battery then what do you look for if you want power and long run time. I’m new so please help.
Honestly… It is better to run 1 6s battery in my opinion because it’s less maintenance and you don’t have to worry about the fact If one of them goes bad then you’re basically stuck trying to find the exact same brand again which sometimes is hard to do. In other words babysitting one battery and keeping it in good condition is easier than taking care of two. Also don’t get confused thinking that 2 3S batteries is actually more runtime. For example two 5000 mAh 3S batteries is not actually the equivalent of 10,000 mAh. At 6s it is only 5000 mAh, The same runtime as one single 5000 mAh battery.
Another benefit of running a single battery is that you only need to have a charger with one charging port. Technically that saves you money. Now if you already have a charger that can charge two batteries at once and I guess that wouldn’t matter.
If you want a long run time then simply spend more money on higher milliamps. For instance I’ve seen 1 6S battery go as high as 8000, even 10,000. They are just much more expensive. Again if you bought two 8000 mA 3S batteries it would be exactly the same runtime as 1 6s 8000 mA battery.
Now… If you’re a glutton for the best of the best then you’re gonna want to buy a battery with a high C rating, it’s pretty negligible noticing any difference between a battery that has 50 C rating versus 100 C rating. But some people really like that extra burst of power that your higher see rating batteries provide.
@@EastTactics thank you so much I got an armma talion v4 coming in mail but no battery but any info helped. I will remember what you said thank you again. Any opinion on what your favorite is
Not particularly, honestly your best bet is to just buy your battery from a local hobby shop it’s nice to support them sometimes and if it’s a quality hobby grade store they’ll have some quality batteries in stock.
If your new to RC this is a good vid to watch
ua-cam.com/video/WSALCiKZ7QU/v-deo.html
So the only advantage of running to3S batteries is if you want to take it vantage of running your vehicle at half power. There is a way to run your vehicle with a single 3S battery.
Honestly I thought I would like that feature so I originally did go with 2 3s batteries however I never ended up using it.
Then down the road one of my batteries wire terminals went bad and I had to get rid of it. Then I couldn’t find the same brand anywhere so I ended up having a single 3S battery with no partner and I really want them to be the exact same brand and same model. So I switch to the success and I’ve liked it more since then
@@EastTactics cool thank you I will
What’s the difference between the v5 diffs and the exb diffs
The v5 uses the traditional V4 diffs. The Exb uses newly designed diff assemblies that incorporate limited slip into the center and front. Literally every part of the EXB differential set up is redesigned, the cups are smaller, the gears are different, even the outdrives are fatter. There’s really no backwards compatibility between the V4/5 differentials and The EXB.
That said… It is completely possible for you to install the complete set up of an EXB differential into A V4/v5. It just has to be the assembly as a whole.
Does that answer your question?
The problem with the exb was the rear diff my exb went back after the diff broke after a light run it had the correct amount of shims would like the v5 just a bit worried history repeats itself
I heard of people having problems with the rear differential on the EXB. However it was due to them thinking it was properly shimmed from the factory. When In fact it wasn’t.
That aside, you certainly can drop a version 4/5 differential into the EXB If you wanted I don’t see why you couldn’t. But you would have to make sure you replace the input gear as well.
@@EastTactics before my exb went back the shop they asked me to take the rear diff apart the teeth were destroyed according to the manual it did have the correct shims in it I know some had some missing but mine didn’t
@@EastTactics the problem is not lsd diffs the problem is the open diffs a lot of videos on UA-cam about that
update , now the v5 is 599.00 dollars!
Nice
I got my kraton v5 6s blx from Westbank hobbies for 500 😂😂 maybe 520 after tax
nice!
Watch my latest video and get involved in my final jump challenge. Win $1000 in upgrades simply by getting involved.
They tried to make a diff that can last for 1 pack 🤣🤣
Dude the max 8 has been out for years with 7.4v for like $120. You were really buying a bec for this?
I mean sure, you can buy a brand new ESC for 120. But the value of just going the BEC route is the fact that you can actually have one of those for anywhere between 15 and $40. So yeah.
I think my 7mm steel skidplate is more bendproof, than this new chassis
Is that the skid plate that I noticed Kevin Talbert had a friend who was launching as a new assessory? Or is this a custom skid plate you created?
Do you have the V5? Did you already bend your chassis?
Also if that skid plate is an actual product you acquired maybe you can drop a link for everyone who might be interested in it. Bash on my friend
@@EastTactics I,m from germany and we got several people here, that cast or cnc skidplates to protect chassis from scratching and most importantly bending. You can get a rear skidplate for 30 bucks. Unfortunately I think nobody makes these in the US.
I recently had a 5 meter (16 ft) fall on my rear with my kraton v4 and everything is perfectly straight still.
a link to a german shop, so you can see what the product is like:
www.spielzeug-apen.de/blr-shop/298647/skidplate-set-arrma-v5?c=357
Thanks!
So not much of a difference between the 4s and v5
I enjoyed a great video let's be friends.
우리 친구 해요!~~
😀😀😀😀😀
These prices r in THE states in Canada u are looking at about $ 1100 or 1200
Like....
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Thx for that!
Could have been half as long zzzzzzzz
Beautiful 🤘