Arrma RC - High Power Fans UPDATE - DIY 40mm Fan Project
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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Ultimate DIY buyers Guide. Why spend 20-30% more for these fans, when you can do it yourself for less, and come away with the extra's you need to retrofit more vehicles as your RC army grows. Thanks for watching.
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DIY High Power fan PROJECT Playlist
• DIY RC High powered fans
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Garage life RC - 40mm ESC fan adapters
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HERE'S WHERE YOU CAN GET YOUR CUSTOM 4MM FAN COVERS (And other Accessories)
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IIf you cant fiind the aluminum 40mm ESC & heatsiink adaptors on Amozon, search the following on ebay - 40mm Universal Fan Mount
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Temperature Thresholds
Motor
Ideal - 140° 60° C
Hot - 150 - 160° 65.5° - 71.1° C
Overheat - 165° 74°C
ESC
Ideal - 135° 57.2° C
Hot - 140 - 150° 60° - 65.5° C
Overheat - 155° 68.3°C
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COOLING OPTIONS
Fan/heat sink combo - amzn.to/2AEA8Wp
Stock ESC fan - amzn.to/2WWjPND
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MISC TOOLS
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How do you strip the 30awg wires? Any tips? I bought all your stuff from your Amazon cart and now I’m trying to assemble. The small wires threw me a curve
You can either pick up a really petite pair and wire strippers. But what I do is simply take my thumb and my finger and squeeze really hard. using my thumb nail on the exact point that I want it to strip.
If you bite your nails, this may not work. But the quick snapping motion breaks the rubber around the wire, fairly easily if you squeeze hard.
How did you extended the cable from the esc to the lipo?
The new ESC I put in has long terminals. I didn’t extend them.
Install vid
ua-cam.com/video/lztJ8RLPhT8/v-deo.html
I have modified ESC terminals in the past though. Details here:
ua-cam.com/video/qZ5i3j1Uj5Y/v-deo.html
I think the zip ties you had would have looked better if they were black and flipped around to the back instead of the tie right in front. Much better than the metal ones, the metal ones didn’t seem to sit right even with the screws threw
the screws. Or you could have got a 3D printed switch holder, but besides that I appreciate all the links and the fans. I really liked the little bushings under them another great tactic. I did just get some 3D fan covers from Pyro-nitro and the quality is top notch 👍🏼.
I agree, black zip ties would’ve looked better, especially if I put the synching mechanism on the inside. It’s much easier to pull them tighter than the metal ones. However, the biggest apealis the strength. The regular zip ties break so easily. It’s ridiculous and they even get brittle overtime. I probably could’ve spent a little bit more time shaping the metal ones, so it looks a little bit tighter. But trust me metal is the way... lol as the Mandalorian would say. As far as a 3-D printed switch holder, do you know anyone who makes one that would work in that spot? I probably would find myself wanting to use black metal zip ties. To hold a 3-D printed holder in place my be sketchy unless the designer has something very clever and strong in mind.
Thanks for the comment. Appreciate the feedback.
Good, informative video...but, with what I see as two problem, both with easy solutions.
First thing I'd like to point out is, do NOT use red Loctite. In order to remove red Loctite, you have to apply excessive heat, and doing so will probably cause damage to the ESC. Instead, I highly recommend using orange Loctite. Orange Loctite has a 'holding' strength almost equal to that of red, yet the 'release' strength of only slightly higher than blue. For metal-to-metal to ALWAYS use Loctite - red for things you are certain you'll never remove, orange for things that need super-strong 'holding' strength but might require occasional replacement, and blue for everything else.
The second thing has to do with those fan covers. I do admit they look "cool"...but, they also restrict air flow. You are much better off, and will allow a greater amount of air flow, by going with something like carbon fiber. They're lighter than aluminum, will prevent larger items from getting into the fan, and still have a somewhat "cool" look to them...but, they won't restrict airflow. If you're still worried about something getting inside, damaging the fan (such as small pebbles), then I have an easy solution, which also increases the "cool" factor - use two carbon fiber fan covers, cut a piece of screen door mesh just slightly smaller than the fan cover dimensions, and sandwich it between the two fan covers (also, use slightly longer screws, to cover the extra thickness of 2 covers + mesh). This provides all the benefits of a single CF fan cover, with the added benefits of keeping everything but dust/dirt out of the fan. 🤙🏼
Thx Ninth Island, for the information. Believe it or not, I’ve never even heard of orange Loctite so that’s pretty cool. I definitely would not recommend blue Loctite for sure. Now regarding red Loctite, I would say yeah sometimes it is good to be leery of using it, however, in this application being that the screws are only 3M screws without a whole lot of surface area, I’ve never had any issue removing them or binding, or stripping, etc. Red Loctite can be a nightmare on a lot of situations, especially with the larger bolts and screws.
And then, regarding the fan covers, while I do agree, that fan covers, do restrict airflow, some more than others. And there can be a trade-off between looks and airflow. That said, I have done ample testing with the more decorative covers, and because of the power of these fans, it’s still is a massive upgrade in cooling. Enough so that it keeps temperatures Below needed extremes even on the hottest of days. I definitely do like the idea of using a mesh …great tactic.
@@EastTactics I could be wrong (meaning, there could be more)...but, to the best of my knowledge, the available types (in order of weakest, to strongest) are purple, blue, orange, and red.
I use orange thread locker as well. That’s all I use now.
I’ll have to get me some 👍👍
@@EastTactics The brand you'll be looking for is Permatex. They're the ones who, in addition to blue & red, also make orange & purple.
First, just thinking about ideas for the jump competition, thanks for doing it bro 👍
🔥👍🔥
When you show the compression on your motor fan. I noticed the heat shrink around the fan wires and tucked into the wire groove. Very important tactic. Definitely interested in those metal zip ties🤔
Thanks, and yes, those metals zip ties are extremely useful in many circumstances
Referring to this video ua-cam.com/video/BPOoi35C8Qg/v-deo.html
Wouldn't the RC car components that are in tight areas between the motor and such rust after being washed with water?
No, anytime you’re rig gets wet weather from washing it or from romping in the snow or rain or puddles etc. you always have to do your due diligence to get everything (even in those tight crevices) dry. The best way to do that is with an air compressor or blower of sorts.
Following that, you then cover components with an anti-rust agent, in the videos, case, brushing lightly with WD-40. This has prevented my vehicle from ever receiving any rust.
@@EastTactics What do you mean by the "due diligence" and how many time a month do I need to remove all the electronics and stuff to deep clean the car a month or is that a monthly thing? - I am also wondering about the WD-40 should I brush all possible brushable tight areas? Motor cooling spaces (hear shrink) etc. - Would it also be okay to hose the car directly on top of the electronics such as ESC, Motor, fans, battery plug? ( I own a arm senton 3s I am just mainly worried about the small tight spaces that WD-40 won't be able to reach or barely reach such as the steering arms and yk)
Due diligence only means “when wet… you dry it”. Any time and 100% of the time.
Water unchecked or simply left, is your rigs worst enemy. Most times you bash however, you’ll likely find that your rig is not left wet…just dirty.
There’s been times that I’ve left my rig dirty or somewhat dust covered for long periods. Even bashed it again without deep cleaning it per say. However, most times I like to wash my dry dirty rig right away (like that same evening, or within a day or two of bashing. It’s then and only then that I myself get it wet via the process outlined in the video you referenced.
That said if I bash it in the rain, snow, or even ran through a single puddle. I 100% wash it that same evening.
Now that it’s wet (from the bash or cleaning) one must get it completely dry. What is completely dry? It’s not to be stressed about as much as you think. It doesn’t require you to remove any electronics… ever. I’ve never felt the need to remove any components to achieve a clean dry rig. Regarding cleaning. Now regarding maintenance… that’s another story… which I’ll get to in a moment.
First to dry your rig after spraying ( and note… never over spray your electronics. There water resistant, not proof. You can focus heavy spray on tires, rims, arms, bulkheads, undercarriage etc. but there no need to focus directly on your electronics. Even if you need to get debris out directly under your motor, ESC battery tray, focused spray there should be fine, just not on or into your electronics. (Naturally, alway remove your battery)
Not all rigs are water resistant. But After a spray wash, which is ok to do (with my rig and it’s electronics) because I know they are water resistant. And I know my receiver is tightly held inside a waterproof box that I personally made sure I closed up correctly. I know my ESC manufacturer has implemented water resistance, same with my servo. The motor too is fine to get light spraying without worry.
After a spray down as seen in this video
ua-cam.com/video/BPOoi35C8Qg/v-deo.html
I always set my rig upside down and let it drip drain for at least 3-5 minutes.
Then I towel it dry… I use a thin rod up under the towel to fit into tight spaces. As far as drying even harder to reach places, this is where pressured air comes in. Canned air if you don’t have other means.
It is possible to dry a rig completely with out air pressure. It’s just harder
The anti rust treatment after word (wd-40 or other) technically wouldn’t even be needed if you dry all your metals (aluminum not as big a deal) if it’s all dry… no rust will endure.
The Wd-40 treatment is actually more of a backup, and many think is good for the plastics. (Which is debatable, it’s definitely not good for bearings) it’s not bad per say… but don’t think it’s lubing them… it’s not. A light layer of it is great for preventing rust on all screws, gears, drivetrain etc. a light coat on plastic is fine, plus gives it that clean shine we like.
I’m actually going to stop using wd40 because I found a new product that does all its benefits, but doesn’t displace water drone this bearings and is more lube friendly. It’s from Cow RC. Stay tuned.
As far as maintenance goes. Really nothing requires you to remove electronics (at least with the 6s Kraton). Really the main thing to maintain if your keeping a clean ring as per the above mentioned, is simply keeping your bearing lubed/maintenanced, and watching for loosening screws.
How often should you be maintenancing your bearings depends some on whether or not you have rubber sealed bearings and how much you run your rig. At least every 6 months I would closely inspect my bearing situation.
@@EastTactics Right. That's about all I needed. Would a hair dryer work? If so, cold, warm or hot setting?
Not really, the biggest attribute of compressed air is the power behind it, and its ability to push water out of tight crevices. A blow dryer would speed up classic drying function, so it wouldn’t hurt. But I definitely would only go warm, or if you go hot, keep it a distance away.
I would probably say, that if I did not have the ability to used compressed air at all. I probably wouldn’t soak my rig as much.
I was hoping this video have the 2x4" fan slap test.
And thanks for posting my jump competition video❤
It’s coming … I promise
Appreciate the effort you go to. Today was the first time my DIY fan did not break ! the shock tactic on the motor worked a treat
That’s awesome
Your videos about fan are the best on the planet I have watched them and they have helped a lot
Thanks! 🥹