Really glad to see you use shims all the way around the voice coil. Some believe three is enough but the more you use the better the overall alignment and consistency of the clearance through the full voice coil excursion.
Back in Thailand, we use (developed) film for shims and it works quite well. You can see it all the times on the streets around "Ban Moh" area in Bangkok.
Clearly you are a person of incredible skill as you repaired that speaker rather effortlessly, making no mistake, doing each step perfectly (please no need for modesty). What I'd love to know is how many people inspired by how you made it look so simple gave it a try and simply destroyed what they were working on, because it's more than just knowing what to do, it's knowing how to do what you are doing extremely well. Great video, regardless!
This is quite possibly one of the best videos I've seen on re-coning a driver so far. I have a set of Behringer VP2520 cabs that are rated for 2000 watts. In reality the drivers are rated for 250 watts RMS and are wired in parallel. Assuming the rating on the cabinet was correct I drove them at 1000 watts which has noticeably damaged the motors. I'll be doing this same thing 4 times fairly soon. Thanks for the great video. Keep up the good work.
@Jay B You do realize that this is a loudspeaker not a car sub woofer, also you must not know that this is rated at 123db continuous and it is extremely unlikely you can find a replacement 10 inch capable of that for 100 dollars.
As a PRO live sound technician with roughly 40 years of experience, I have to agree with the pro audio vs car subwoofer comments. This is a PRO audio driver -- a completely different animal than a CAR subwoofer. A car audio enthusiast criticizing this speaker is like a motorcyclist criticizing a football helmet! I have no disrespect for car audio enthusiasts, bassheads, or whatever they want to be called; if you're having fun, then have at it! However, the vast majority of these "professionals" wouldn't have a CLUE what to do if they sat down behind a console and a rack of amps and processors! Quite frankly, regardless of my pro audio experience, if I wanted an efficient, powerful subwoofer in my car, I would probably get a basshead to help me build it.
You know, I have never seen a speaker refit before. Kinda wants me to give it a go. Great video, couldn't take my eyes off the procedure for one moment !
the "basket" is the metal part of a speaker. The part he replaced is the cone and voice coil from a "Re-cone kit". Cheaper subs do NOT have re-cone kits for them.
Funny how some ppl say they would just go buy a new one. There is some satisfaction in repairing something. That would be like buying a new car because the motor or trans blew in it. If you have some skills and knowledge why not save a few bucks. Seems like smart money to me. I repaired my Cerwin Vega subs and they work like new.
its a hi fidelity speaker. you dont really see the value in parts and design. its more of an integral electrical componenent that is finely tuned by expert engineers. whenever you hear live music, its most likely through paper speakers with a cloth or paper surround.
I've got to say you did such a great professional job. I've watched couple of these and every other doesn't compare to the job you did. I hope you get paid well for jobs like these buddy ;)
What types of glue to use? Where to purchase the Glue and foam surrounds? I have 5 15", 5 12 inch, and several other smaller size speakers to replace surrounds. In my older wood cabinet floor stereo speakers. Thank You
I have a question, I noticed my subs (2 8in jl audio subs in a stealthbox) didn't sound right, it was lacking bass it used to have and sounded kinda rough, so I took the box out and found that the foam surround on one of the subs was completely detached and all ripped, so I figured it was blown, but I turned my stereo on and to my surprise it was still working and sounded close to normal but will less bass/ sounded loose and when I press down evenly on the cone it doesn't scrape, is it fixable?
OK video, BUT...using steel wool (to clean glue residue off) around that strong magnet is way baaaad, and NOT recommended...if ANY even tiny particles get sucked up and into the voice-coil area, they will be difficult, if not impossible to remove, and all of your work is for nothing when they make contact with the voice-coil. I'd also vacuum out debris from voice-coil area, not just blow it around (but sticky paper was a good idea!)
Ronplucksstrings You know your stuff Ron. Steel Wool would be about the last thing you want around that magnet structure. Undoubtedly some fibers will make their way into the VC slot and near impossible to remove and certainly no fun. Vacuuming as well should be done in the cleaning process. In the end the woofer was re-coned and seemingly working properly. With more practice some of the sloppiness will probably improve.
1:24 This is big reconing mistake when gluing the spider. You should only press down on the glue area to avoid putting some lateral tension that could de-center the coil once you remove the shims. When gluing the dust cap put a weight (coffee mug or glass) before pouring the glue around. This will prevent glue from running past the dust cap onto your voice coil. After reconing a LF woofer an extensive speaker burn-in might be welcome. Nice job ;)
I have some desktop speakers I love with all my life. I mistakenly plugged in the wrong power chord and blew out my speaker. The port is fine but it blew the speaker and is like to replace it. What do y'all recommend? I'm trying to fix my grey Yamaha desktop speakers ive had since 1998. Any help is much appreciated.
Everyone talking shit about him repairing that speaker should keep their comments to themselves. Obviously you know nothing about speakers. It is a PA speaker. I don't know about the new Turbosound speakers since they were bought out, but the older ones were quite good. This is a loudspeaker, not a subwoofer. You probably don't even know what a quality subwoofer is either.
Quick story and a question for you, I bought two vintage Jensen 6X9 speakers. Using a multimeter one of the speakers was fine, the other I couldn't get a reading anywhere but when I hooked it up to a small amp, there was a small delay and then miraculously sizzled back to life, but with a coil rub sound. Is it possible that if speaker was blown before might have caused a short, fooling a my multimeter?
Where did you order this basket from. I need to do this for my 15” 8 ohm black widow speaker for my peavey bass cab but everything I keep finding online comes with the basket frame/cage. Please send me a link to where I might be able to purchase what I need. You are much appreciated in advance.
I have a question, so I bought some kmd se15-150 speakers 8ohms/150w and I have a pa system Sr - 6100 mixer amp I checked the fuse it's not blood but on the speakers sometimes the subwoofers won't make a sound but sound comes from the top part but not the bass part of it, so are they bad is there a bad connection they worked fine earlier but now that aren't. Unless I shake them lol then the sound lasts until I move them again I checked the cables swinging them around and the sound stays the same so I think the cables are good I also tried multiple different ones same situation I just need some help figuring this out.
Virtually all high-end pro audio subs have a removable magnet for maintenance/reconing. Remove the magnet, THEN clean the gap. It's a hell of a lot more thorough. If you miss just one tiny crumb of copper, piece of steel wool, or melted enamel, then it's just a matter of time before it gets wedged into the gap and destroys the voice coil...
well, I definitely tore up my share of speakers in the past! Practice makes perfect with anything. I encourage anyone with skilled hands to try, but maybe with a cheaper speaker first!
Frequency response is a much more costly engineering science than SPL (decibel). For many reasons, pro audio is a superior technology. One recording studio can cost MILLIONS!!! Live venues can be astonishing. There is a reason for that. Car audio is only replaying what pro audio created in the first place. You can't compare the 2
Pain in the ass! Using enough shims and getting the coil centered perfectly isn't always easy. I've fixed speakers where it moved in and out fine but as soon as some bass got to it, it started scratching inside again.
You keep the basket and the motor structure. It is called reconing a speaker. not unbolwing. For the speaker that he reconed it probably wasn't worth it. I have a $400 15" and the recone cost $190.
Hi..nice vid..I hv a lil problem with my PD 1851/2...yes I blew it with the amp...now,,I hv already ordered the recone kit which is arnd 150euros, but the expected delivery date is more than a month away..I cant go on a whole month without it..so I just called a tech who does recoiling,,according to him it'll take only 3 days to get it fixed and runnin...pls tell me what are cons of recoiling..I've heard that it will never be the same as the original after recoiling... Thank you
Cool video. So the dust cap is it necessary for the performance of the speaker overall? I know dust isn't good for the coil but will a speaker still work the same without the dust cover?
tip, if your going to fast forward through the parts where you talk, could you put some sub-titles or something? that would help a lot, GREAT video BTW.
The stuff he used was pretty much elmers glue that came with the unblow, I mean recone. Do yourself a favor and get a nice rubberized ca glue from a hobby shop.
Thank you for not explaining how to scrape a gasket off a speaker basket. Some videos seem like they're geared towards people who can't even tie their shoes and it makes it very difficult to watch. I've don't this over 50 and I don't even know why I watch but...
wow, great video, thanks, need to repair my ar3 a woofer and ar lst woofer. Both must be blown because they don't put out sound any longer. Thanks again
Where could I mount a crunch 800 watt Small amp in My 98 Ford f150 Extended cab , Don't have room under the backseat , Bought the Sub box For that . Now I have no clue where to place the amp .
From the Tower Beacon by the door and a few other old pieces of equipment, it would appear you are a Broadcast Engineer or at least a radio fan. Enjoyed the video.
If you have the time and it comes out properly cheaper (I'm not talking about saving $5) then it's cool. Nothing gives the satisfaction quite like having something work that you have built/fixed. Otherwise it's not really worth it. My friend wanted me to re-cone a pair of JVC UX-B1005's. That's a bit ridiculous.
You can use regular cooking oil like olive or rapeseed oil to get rid of the glue. Just spread it on amply, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe off. You'll need to clean it all off with acetone after wiping.
OR!!! you can just use some rubbing alcohol and it just wipes clean off and cost less than that oil or acetone. It's even very quick!!! I had to use it to get adhesive glue off my windows taking tint off that was on a 93 truck since it was made!!! Gets the job done quick!!! Oh and this guy knows how to really save some money too!!! Love the vid
that speaker is NOT worth 100 dollars to recone...give me a 100 dollars ill give you a 10 inch that we be louder than that...that sub is a piece of doo doo
Your 10 inch would rot out in a few years, have a sub 80db SPL, and have horrible accuracy. But sure it will be loud, using a much larger amp than this one needs to achieve the same about of decibels.
I'm probably going to have to do the same to an Eminence 3012lf after not using a high pass on a loud bedroom testing. Coil is probably fine as it was nowhere near its thermal limit, but voice coil is slightly dented from hitting the back and it rubs.
Hey I have a 12” kicker comp, when I turn it upside down, I hear something loose? Drop? Somethings loose inside...the cone moves up and down, it’s not stiff or stuck.... Any ideas?
Is it the subwoofer alone or the sub and enclosure? If it's a vented enclosure it wouldn't be too surprising that something got into the enclosure through the vent
Darin Schoenrock if I look from the back on the magnet like how this videos starts, the hole in the Center, if I look through it, I see a Mesh, I’m starting to assume that mesh was acting as a filter, inside the magnet, if you look from the back side.
The speaker got too much power, because the DJ wanted it louder that it could perform, he turned the gain too high, the coil's wire started gathering temperature, it overheated, the wire's isolation melted, some naked wires got in contact, and it got short-circuit which made the coil's resistance drop significantly, and the coil stopped operating which made the speaker unusable for converting alternatig current into sound waves, and the aplifier needed to cut-off the blown speaker from it's circuit using a fuse in order to not overheat himself, because the amp could get some wire's isolation melted causing short-circuit too, rendering the amplifier unusable and of very tiny resistence, causing the mains to overload and the power supply needed to cut the amp out too, or the power-plant could overheat and get something explode and the power grid would be forced to cut-off the blown power plant in order to not get power-drained and overloaded causing the whole grid to overheat, melt wire isolation, get in contact, short-circuit, drop resistance, gather heat, spray cookies with ice-cream coating and burn!!!
I'm laughing at all these "car woofer heads" calling that a crap speaker because it has a lower XMAX than a comparable car woofer. This speaker is designed for midbass in a high volume setting with a very large enclosure possibly with some kind of horn loading involved. Car woofers are designed for smaller enclosures and use higher wattage amplifiers to make up for the lack of acoustics said smaller enclosures have. This speaker would own a car woofer in an efficiency rating test, accuracy test, and longevity test. This is a professional audio woofer, not some overpriced toy designed to advertise to all the thugs in the area to bust out your vehicle's glass and steal your system for a quick buck.
Scioneer where did I say car woofer? Those two words never mentioned by me until now. Now it being a PA speaker then it is only good for voices nothing else. I have quality sound in my home and car. No has taken anything from either place.
I bought a box with 2 phoenix gold 12inch subs in a sealed double box for 50. I knew the price was too good to be true, 1 blown subwoofer that would not move at all because of blown voice coil. Need some info . Maybe ill just buy a new one.
A nice work but…The cone was good. The spider was good. The only thing that was damage was the voice coil and this was the only thing that needed to be replaced.
I've had a few where the cone was torn and the easy fix was to use the no tear paper from the USPS and some rubber glue. I let it dry letting it sit all day in the sun then next day I put the speak back in and the speaker sounds just like new.
The basket, magnet and caps were all that was left. That's not unblowing, it's rebuilding. I personally found it very interesting to see this done. There was wait time for the glue to dry too. That was a 15"? This rebuild was worth the work done because I think 12 and 15" speakers aren't being built anymore or close to it, from what I have read. I just had 2 dust covers replaced on my Pioneers and new caps installed on one of them and they are 12" woofers, buying an active 1000 watt sub to accompany them will help them, so I did and that is a 12" as well, lol, wall shakers.
@@johnnycee5179 granted, I'm not as experienced as the vast majority, but once a speaker is blown, it's trash. Or you can rebuild it like here. Somebody correct me me if I'm wrong. If the cone is shot but the coil is still good it can be rigged, repaired kinda, repaired, or repurposed altogether into a vibration exciter or a bass shaker and I don't know what else. UA-cam dml or flat panel speaker and bass shaker diy if you haven't already, they're awesome. But he said and demonstrated here the coil was very very shot. Only way to fix that that I know of is re-cone it like he did here
@@johnnycee5179 oh yeah, and UA-cam 21 inch, 33 inch, and the latest and greatest 80 inch subwoofer. Yes, that's correct, 6 foot, 2 meter diameter subwoofer. It lifts the room built around it
Nice work! Btw you have a bit of distortion on the end of the vid, a trick I used at raves when making videos is to cover my phones mic with my vingers, muffles the bass away enough to keep everything crystal and audible ;)
Nice Video. Some people man...who cares what the title is. I knew exactly what he was talking about. My question is, Did the glue you use come with the repair Kit? if not what two types of glue are you using? Does anyone know what glue he used?
Great informative video! I was wondering if anyone can offer some advise to a woofer speaker problem I have. Speaker not working dead no pop no hum nothing! Surround good, cone good, dust cap good, voice coil moves freely no rubbing, wire connection look good, no strong burnt smell. When I took the speaker out of the cabinet the only thing I noticed was the plug end connector came loose from the insulator. Reattached it and it made no difference. Plug speaker in different sound source dead
Very nice job and funny to see all the high speed with the normal-pitch audio. Especially when it's extra fast and I hear your voice, but it is so fast it is unintelligible. I also recognized that room you were in, with the Fisher radio and amp, speakers and 8-track player, and the Superscope cassette recorder with no cassette door and corroded battery compartment!
Great video . I have a 10" Precision Power flat piston sub that is blown. That crunchy sound when pressed on is terrible. This sub is HEAVY and I know its high quality, but how different would the repair be?
Really glad to see you use shims all the way around the voice coil. Some believe three is enough but the more you use the better the overall alignment and consistency of the clearance through the full voice coil excursion.
Back in Thailand, we use (developed) film for shims and it works quite well. You can see it all the times on the streets around "Ban Moh" area in Bangkok.
Agreed, this is one of my fav parts.
Clearly you are a person of incredible skill as you repaired that speaker rather effortlessly, making no mistake, doing each step perfectly (please no need for modesty). What I'd love to know is how many people inspired by how you made it look so simple gave it a try and simply destroyed what they were working on, because it's more than just knowing what to do, it's knowing how to do what you are doing extremely well. Great video, regardless!
Best how to video I've seen for this topic.
This is quite possibly one of the best videos I've seen on re-coning a driver so far. I have a set of Behringer VP2520 cabs that are rated for 2000 watts. In reality the drivers are rated for 250 watts RMS and are wired in parallel. Assuming the rating on the cabinet was correct I drove them at 1000 watts which has noticeably damaged the motors. I'll be doing this same thing 4 times fairly soon. Thanks for the great video. Keep up the good work.
@Jay B You do realize that this is a loudspeaker not a car sub woofer, also you must not know that this is rated at 123db continuous and it is extremely unlikely you can find a replacement 10 inch capable of that for 100 dollars.
bamper42069
i mean... i got a rockford fosgate P2 in great and usable condition at a yardsale for only $10...
As a PRO live sound technician with roughly 40 years of experience, I have to agree with the pro audio vs car subwoofer comments. This is a PRO audio driver -- a completely different animal than a CAR subwoofer. A car audio enthusiast criticizing this speaker is like a motorcyclist criticizing a football helmet!
I have no disrespect for car audio enthusiasts, bassheads, or whatever they want to be called; if you're having fun, then have at it! However, the vast majority of these "professionals" wouldn't have a CLUE what to do if they sat down behind a console and a rack of amps and processors! Quite frankly, regardless of my pro audio experience, if I wanted an efficient, powerful subwoofer in my car, I would probably get a basshead to help me build it.
I would just go back to the local audio store and buy another 12 inch JL Audio Subwoofer.
@@hudsonhayer9376 look whos talking. You replied to this dudes comment 2 years after he made it. Lol. Get a life.
@@hudsonhayer9376
*you're
Edited "your" comment but still showing ignorance either way
You know, I have never seen a speaker refit before. Kinda wants me to give it a go. Great video, couldn't take my eyes off the procedure for one moment !
Its called re-coning sub-woofer
Yoshi1u2 huh... i re-cone it is
Can an ice cream be re-coned if needed? I accidentally dropped mine. :(
the "basket" is the metal part of a speaker. The part he replaced is the cone and voice coil from a "Re-cone kit". Cheaper subs do NOT have re-cone kits for them.
Not a car sub.
Funny how some ppl say they would just go buy a new one. There is some satisfaction in repairing something. That would be like buying a new car because the motor or trans blew in it. If you have some skills and knowledge why not save a few bucks. Seems like smart money to me. I repaired my Cerwin Vega subs and they work like new.
318$ for that piece of shit? turbo sound lmao
its a hi fidelity speaker. you dont really see the value in parts and design. its more of an integral electrical componenent that is finely tuned by expert engineers. whenever you hear live music, its most likely through paper speakers with a cloth or paper surround.
Thank you! I bought the kit for my brother on his sequoia, works great!!
I've got to say you did such a great professional job. I've watched couple of these and every other doesn't compare to the job you did. I hope you get paid well for jobs like these buddy ;)
Nice work
What types of glue to use? Where to purchase the Glue and foam surrounds? I have 5 15", 5 12 inch, and several other smaller size speakers to replace surrounds. In my older wood cabinet floor stereo speakers. Thank You
Awesome Job! Great Teacher also. I like the detailed information. That was very helpful. Thank You.
Can you tell us where you got the replacement parts from? Thanks.
I have a question, I noticed my subs (2 8in jl audio subs in a stealthbox) didn't sound right, it was lacking bass it used to have and sounded kinda rough, so I took the box out and found that the foam surround on one of the subs was completely detached and all ripped, so I figured it was blown, but I turned my stereo on and to my surprise it was still working and sounded close to normal but will less bass/ sounded loose and when I press down evenly on the cone it doesn't scrape, is it fixable?
OK video, BUT...using steel wool (to clean glue residue off) around that strong magnet is way baaaad, and NOT recommended...if ANY even tiny particles get sucked up and into the voice-coil area, they will be difficult, if not impossible to remove, and all of your work is for nothing when they make contact with the voice-coil. I'd also vacuum out debris from voice-coil area, not just blow it around (but sticky paper was a good idea!)
Ronplucksstrings You know your stuff Ron. Steel Wool would be about the last thing you want around that magnet structure. Undoubtedly some fibers will make their way into the VC slot and near impossible to remove and certainly no fun. Vacuuming as well should be done in the cleaning process.
In the end the woofer was re-coned and seemingly working properly. With more practice some of the sloppiness will probably improve.
1:24 This is big reconing mistake when gluing the spider. You should only press down on the glue area to avoid putting some lateral tension that could de-center the coil once you remove the shims.
When gluing the dust cap put a weight (coffee mug or glass) before pouring the glue around. This will prevent glue from running past the dust cap onto your voice coil.
After reconing a LF woofer an extensive speaker burn-in might be welcome.
Nice job ;)
I have some desktop speakers I love with all my life. I mistakenly plugged in the wrong power chord and blew out my speaker. The port is fine but it blew the speaker and is like to replace it. What do y'all recommend? I'm trying to fix my grey Yamaha desktop speakers ive had since 1998. Any help is much appreciated.
Do you do that all the time I have a cerwin Vega 15 that I bought and found out that I have to replace it because it is blown up
Everyone talking shit about him repairing that speaker should keep their comments to themselves. Obviously you know nothing about speakers. It is a PA speaker. I don't know about the new Turbosound speakers since they were bought out, but the older ones were quite good. This is a loudspeaker, not a subwoofer. You probably don't even know what a quality subwoofer is either.
ltldevl the original owner bailed before it failed.
ltldevl
Quick story and a question for you, I bought two vintage Jensen 6X9 speakers. Using a multimeter one of the speakers was fine, the other I couldn't get a reading anywhere but when I hooked it up to a small amp, there was a small delay and then miraculously sizzled back to life, but with a coil rub sound. Is it possible that if speaker was blown before might have caused a short, fooling a my multimeter?
Where did you order this basket from. I need to do this for my 15” 8 ohm black widow speaker for my peavey bass cab but everything I keep finding online comes with the basket frame/cage. Please send me a link to where I might be able to purchase what I need. You are much appreciated in advance.
I have a question, so I bought some kmd se15-150 speakers 8ohms/150w and I have a pa system Sr - 6100 mixer amp I checked the fuse it's not blood but on the speakers sometimes the subwoofers won't make a sound but sound comes from the top part but not the bass part of it, so are they bad is there a bad connection they worked fine earlier but now that aren't. Unless I shake them lol then the sound lasts until I move them again I checked the cables swinging them around and the sound stays the same so I think the cables are good I also tried multiple different ones same situation I just need some help figuring this out.
Virtually all high-end pro audio subs have a removable magnet for maintenance/reconing. Remove the magnet, THEN clean the gap. It's a hell of a lot more thorough. If you miss just one tiny crumb of copper, piece of steel wool, or melted enamel, then it's just a matter of time before it gets wedged into the gap and destroys the voice coil...
well, I definitely tore up my share of speakers in the past! Practice makes perfect with anything. I encourage anyone with skilled hands to try, but maybe with a cheaper speaker first!
Frequency response is a much more costly engineering science than SPL (decibel). For many reasons, pro audio is a superior technology. One recording studio can cost MILLIONS!!! Live venues can be astonishing. There is a reason for that. Car audio is only replaying what pro audio created in the first place. You can't compare the 2
Other than the conehat silliness, you did a very professional video! Nice job.
everyone is talking that your speaker is piece of junk.well i say that your woofer will be GOLD for me!i only have those moor small speakers
Pain in the ass! Using enough shims and getting the coil centered perfectly isn't always easy. I've fixed speakers where it moved in and out fine but as soon as some bass got to it, it started scratching inside again.
heating the adhered components helps make removal easier too.
you don't unblow the speaker, you just threw it away, you kept the "bracket" and installed a new speaker -_-
For less money than buying a whole new speaker.
Hunter McNew thus the title should be: how to fix your speaker cheap..
You keep the basket and the motor structure. It is called reconing a speaker. not unbolwing. For the speaker that he reconed it probably wasn't worth it. I have a $400 15" and the recone cost $190.
Bluesr0cker well done professor...
yea,, that's what I said...
Is the new one black because of some kind of anti-friction coating of some sort?
always tin both the wire and the terminal before starting to solder together just a little tip
Hi..nice vid..I hv a lil problem with my PD 1851/2...yes I blew it with the amp...now,,I hv already ordered the recone kit which is arnd 150euros, but the expected delivery date is more than a month away..I cant go on a whole month without it..so I just called a tech who does recoiling,,according to him it'll take only 3 days to get it fixed and runnin...pls tell me what are cons of recoiling..I've heard that it will never be the same as the original after recoiling...
Thank you
Nice work man! You have enough patience. :)
Cool video. So the dust cap is it necessary for the performance of the speaker overall? I know dust isn't good for the coil but will a speaker still work the same without the dust cover?
Is it just the camera or do these cones have an exponential curve on them?
Un-Blowing....LMFAO! 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
tip, if your going to fast forward through the parts where you talk, could you put some sub-titles or something? that would help a lot, GREAT video BTW.
Name of the song at the end please
very nice methodical repair. Thanks for sharing. The teenager comments in here are hilarious.
What types of adhesive are / were used in the final assembly?
The stuff he used was pretty much elmers glue that came with the unblow, I mean recone. Do yourself a favor and get a nice rubberized ca glue from a hobby shop.
This was great!
thanks Stigen
THANKS STIGEN!!!
Nice job, though to me the shape of the old membrane looked pretty decent. I would just recoil it and keep that 100 dollars.
Thank you for not explaining how to scrape a gasket off a speaker basket. Some videos seem like they're geared towards people who can't even tie their shoes and it makes it very difficult to watch. I've don't this over 50 and I don't even know why I watch but...
wow, great video, thanks, need to repair my ar3 a woofer and ar lst woofer. Both must be blown because they don't put out sound any longer. Thanks again
Where could I mount a crunch 800 watt Small amp in My 98 Ford f150 Extended cab , Don't have room under the backseat , Bought the Sub box For that . Now I have no clue where to place the amp .
Mount it upside down under the dash on the passenger side. Or you could remove the glove compartment and place it there
Ya'll seem to think this is a car subwoofer. Its a woofer for a cabinet. I know, ya'll are ignorant, it's okay.
From the Tower Beacon by the door and a few other old pieces of equipment, it would appear you are a Broadcast Engineer or at least a radio fan. Enjoyed the video.
If your speaker is about to blow, take a video of it. Play the video backwards and you'll have a good speaker!
Presented by Troll Physics.
its way easier to use the time machine
It worked for me. Thank you so much
Thats an old school looking amp you have, how old is it?
Tip: Stick it in the oven on low for about 10 or 20 minutes and it will come un glued if its the type of speaker thats meant to be glued
if you heat a magnetic object it will not be as magnetic anymore. so don't put your speaker in the oven, it will ruin the magnet.
If you have the time and it comes out properly cheaper (I'm not talking about saving $5) then it's cool. Nothing gives the satisfaction quite like having something work that you have built/fixed. Otherwise it's not really worth it. My friend wanted me to re-cone a pair of JVC UX-B1005's. That's a bit ridiculous.
I thought the "basket" was the metal frame that holds the magnet and what u attach the surround to. Isn't what he bought a re-cone kit?
would Weldbond work and hold up for the surround and spider? - how about Scotchbrite to clean the basket?
hey I use rain x to get the glue and foam off. it's denatured alcohol, so it works great
You can use regular cooking oil like olive or rapeseed oil to get rid of the glue. Just spread it on amply, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe off. You'll need to clean it all off with acetone after wiping.
Rapeseed oil? Hahaha
***** ?
Rape must be a funny word I gather.
OR!!! you can just use some rubbing alcohol and it just wipes clean off and cost less than that oil or acetone. It's even very quick!!! I had to use it to get adhesive glue off my windows taking tint off that was on a 93 truck since it was made!!! Gets the job done quick!!!
Oh and this guy knows how to really save some money too!!! Love the vid
that speaker is NOT worth 100 dollars to recone...give me a 100 dollars ill give you a 10 inch that we be louder than that...that sub is a piece of doo doo
how can you possibly judge that?
my 8 inch studio woofer blows you away lol
Your 10 inch would rot out in a few years, have a sub 80db SPL, and have horrible accuracy. But sure it will be loud, using a much larger amp than this one needs to achieve the same about of decibels.
ifeel sic ex fucking xactly
Piece of turd. Hes polishing pooh here.
I'm probably going to have to do the same to an Eminence 3012lf after not using a high pass on a loud bedroom testing. Coil is probably fine as it was nowhere near its thermal limit, but voice coil is slightly dented from hitting the back and it rubs.
Why would you buy a $100 basket (your words) when you're trying to recone the speaker?
Very interesting. And a lot better than $300 for a whole new speaker!
i hear a rattling sound inside my speaker like some kind of screw came undone how to look inside it witouth breaking it
What kind of glue are you using
I love when someone is speeding up the video, and talking in the same time :D It sounds like "gaah-buh-dih-bee-dab beeh-upf-geeb-deeb-ap-duh" :D
Great video, thanks for the knowledge !
Hey I have a 12” kicker comp, when I turn it upside down, I hear something loose? Drop? Somethings loose inside...the cone moves up and down, it’s not stiff or stuck....
Any ideas?
Is it the subwoofer alone or the sub and enclosure? If it's a vented enclosure it wouldn't be too surprising that something got into the enclosure through the vent
Darin Schoenrock if I look from the back on the magnet like how this videos starts, the hole in the Center, if I look through it, I see a Mesh, I’m starting to assume that mesh was acting as a filter, inside the magnet, if you look from the back side.
Strange
where did you buy replacement kit? have a link?
Yes, that would be very helpful, information on where you got your replacement parts. Thanks.
what does it mean blowed? burned out? too much power or to loud?
The speaker got too much power, because the DJ wanted it louder that it could perform, he turned the gain too high, the coil's wire started gathering temperature, it overheated, the wire's isolation melted, some naked wires got in contact, and it got short-circuit which made the coil's resistance drop significantly, and the coil stopped operating which made the speaker unusable for converting alternatig current into sound waves, and the aplifier needed to cut-off the blown speaker from it's circuit using a fuse in order to not overheat himself, because the amp could get some wire's isolation melted causing short-circuit too, rendering the amplifier unusable and of very tiny resistence, causing the mains to overload and the power supply needed to cut the amp out too, or the power-plant could overheat and get something explode and the power grid would be forced to cut-off the blown power plant in order to not get power-drained and overloaded causing the whole grid to overheat, melt wire isolation, get in contact, short-circuit, drop resistance, gather heat, spray cookies with ice-cream coating and burn!!!
Thanks...I especially like "Speaker Cine-head" as a reminder that a blown speaker is nothing to laugh about. LOL
Yeah ill just buy another one😅
Yeah I'll just buy 2
I'm laughing at all these "car woofer heads" calling that a crap speaker because it has a lower XMAX than a comparable car woofer. This speaker is designed for midbass in a high volume setting with a very large enclosure possibly with some kind of horn loading involved. Car woofers are designed for smaller enclosures and use higher wattage amplifiers to make up for the lack of acoustics said smaller enclosures have. This speaker would own a car woofer in an efficiency rating test, accuracy test, and longevity test. This is a professional audio woofer, not some overpriced toy designed to advertise to all the thugs in the area to bust out your vehicle's glass and steal your system for a quick buck.
Scioneer where did I say car woofer? Those two words never mentioned by me until now. Now it being a PA speaker then it is only good for voices nothing else. I have quality sound in my home and car. No has taken anything from either place.
"No has taken"? ^
Only good for what? Little do you know of PA systems.
holy hell that's big and for really good sound and excursion
I bought a box with 2 phoenix gold 12inch subs in a sealed double box for 50. I knew the price was too good to be true, 1 blown subwoofer that would not move at all because of blown voice coil. Need some info . Maybe ill just buy a new one.
Thank you for sharing. You obviously have a lot of practice.
Anybody want my my teenager to live with them?
What glue did u use?
Coolest thing I've seen all day
A nice work but…The cone was good. The spider was good. The only thing that was damage was the voice coil and this was the only thing that needed to be replaced.
Awesome, I just ordered and foam kit, thanks man.
what kind of glue did you use?
I blew 5 speakers last night and I'm kinda sick still so my nose is super stuffy, so I don't know what it smells like
I actually didn't get the first part. How to know if the speaker was blown.
I've had a few where the cone was torn and the easy fix was to use the no tear paper from the USPS and some rubber glue. I let it dry letting it sit all day in the sun then next day I put the speak back in and the speaker sounds just like new.
The basket, magnet and caps were all that was left. That's not unblowing, it's rebuilding. I personally found it very interesting to see this done. There was wait time for the glue to dry too. That was a 15"? This rebuild was worth the work done because I think 12 and 15" speakers aren't being built anymore or close to it, from what I have read. I just had 2 dust covers replaced on my Pioneers and new caps installed on one of them and they are 12" woofers, buying an active 1000 watt sub to accompany them will help them, so I did and that is a 12" as well, lol, wall shakers.
Rebuilding is the definition of unblowing. That is an 18 inch sub
@@skydyverjym 18 inch! That's huge. Unblowing same as rebuilding, never heard that before
@@johnnycee5179 granted, I'm not as experienced as the vast majority, but once a speaker is blown, it's trash. Or you can rebuild it like here. Somebody correct me me if I'm wrong. If the cone is shot but the coil is still good it can be rigged, repaired kinda, repaired, or repurposed altogether into a vibration exciter or a bass shaker and I don't know what else. UA-cam dml or flat panel speaker and bass shaker diy if you haven't already, they're awesome. But he said and demonstrated here the coil was very very shot. Only way to fix that that I know of is re-cone it like he did here
@@johnnycee5179 oh yeah, and UA-cam 21 inch, 33 inch, and the latest and greatest 80 inch subwoofer. Yes, that's correct, 6 foot, 2 meter diameter subwoofer. It lifts the room built around it
Where do you buy the cone at????????????????
how did you bowed the speaker
Nice work!
Btw you have a bit of distortion on the end of the vid, a trick I used at raves when making videos is to cover my phones mic with my vingers, muffles the bass away enough to keep everything crystal and audible ;)
Nice Video. Some people man...who cares what the title is. I knew exactly what he was talking about. My question is, Did the glue you use come with the repair Kit? if not what two types of glue are you using? Does anyone know what glue he used?
Go to a model/hobby shop and get some CA glue. eBay has some nice stuff for $13. Don't listen to the haters.
+Wet Striker Hopefully he won't listen to you. CA glue is completely the WRONG stuff to us. I suggest you stop sniffing your glue in the future.
+Nuckelhedd Jones Can you provide the correct product?
Good kits supply it or the vendor will suggest some.
thanks for the reasonable reply, Iam going to try this for the first time.
What if the outer membrane broke or got ripped when screwing a logitec z323 back into the box to see how big it was
I just bought the system yesterday someone please respond asap and what do i do with the 2 year warranty
Great informative video! I was wondering if anyone can offer some advise to a woofer speaker problem I have. Speaker not working dead no pop no hum nothing! Surround good, cone good, dust cap good, voice coil moves freely no rubbing, wire connection look good, no strong burnt smell. When I took the speaker out of the cabinet the only thing I noticed was the plug end connector came loose from the insulator. Reattached it and it made no difference. Plug speaker in different sound source dead
Thanks for the tut, what was that test song you used?
Do they have kits to fix kicker l7
Me:black voice coil my fav uncolor
Him: *INTENSE SNIFF*
I get that pro audio and car audio are two different breeds but isn’t a cardboard cone a little strange for 300?
Very nice job and funny to see all the high speed with the normal-pitch audio. Especially when it's extra fast and I hear your voice, but it is so fast it is unintelligible. I also recognized that room you were in, with the Fisher radio and amp, speakers and 8-track player, and the Superscope cassette recorder with no cassette door and corroded battery compartment!
Damn what torturous pain did you put that speaker through. Usually I'll see coper wire that looks black to me
Thanks for the video! It really helped.
Great video . I have a 10" Precision Power flat piston sub that is blown. That crunchy sound when pressed on is terrible. This sub is HEAVY and I know its high quality, but how different would the repair be?
probably not too different
probably not too different