Hope you like the video and it helps you out with an easy wiring project to get a USB charging port on the boat, it's super handy to have and extremely simple. If you dig the video, please smack the like button and subscribe at bit.ly/2YbjPJi or click the subscribe button :) Tight lines!
Great stuff. I did this with a "cigarette style" 12v so i could also plug my fish finder in, and the USB port also had a voltage reading so i could ensure i wasn't draining the battery too far.
Hey great video and your attention to detail is awesome!!! The blue lighting on your boat looks great and yea I know about the hernia surgery, I had to have the same thing done a few years ago. The surgery definitely makes a difference! Thanks again on sharing your video with us and yes I subscribed! :)
Did you go to Shouldice for your surgery as well? Glad I finally got it done, I can't understand how people can go years with a hernia, it was getting bigger and bigger as the months went buy, although I guess the weight training didn't help lol! Thanks so much for the sub, good luck in the 30 days of baits contest!
@@DanRichardFishing yea I agree I don't know how people live with one, I had to have 3 fixed and I had it done 10 years ago, it is worth it and yea they were most likely from the gym and I had one from birth that I never knew I had. I am in Columbus, Ohio and I had my doctor refer me to a hernia specialist, they did a great job and can't wait to see some of your fishing videos!! :)
Good job on the install Dan... really liked you using a good crimper and wire stripper... it definitely makes a difference in the long run... btw, the peas are still biting... caught 16 today and lost 7 others
Thanks Phil, definitely started upgrading my tools for this work when I realized I would be doing more and more videos on DIY for the boat, thanks for the support :) You've been an amazing subscriber, since I started, thank you so much. And stop showing off with your warm weather and sweet peacock bass lol!
some more questions on that seat install por favor... 1. did you install the seat yourself ? 2. what length vertical shaft did you buy? 3. it looks like there is no hole drilled for the center post? only bolts through floor and the base? 4. did you put a reinforcing plate under the base/ under the deck> I weigh 200#-will the contraption hold up? 5. How long have you been using it and do you wish you had bought a different type? 6. I fish saltwater flats and wonder how it will stand up to saltwater environments? thanks for the help!
Hi Bob! Sorry for the late reply, just been busy with work and home stuff. So here are the answers: 1. I installed the actual seat part to the shaft myself, but the hole in the floor and the post base was already on the boat. 2. The post length is exactly the one I linked to - 25" - 32" adjustable :) 3. The base socket has a inset socket inside that you do need to drill a hole in to the floor to insert it. You can get a better look at what the base socket looks like here: old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/238-Series-Socket-Bases. I'm not 100% sure but the socket hole in the floor for my seat is probably in the 2 3/4" size or so. The chair shaft is 2 3/8". So the base socket fits in to the hole and then the base is bolted or screwed down in to the floor. 4. I do no believe there is any additional reinforcement on the floor... the marine plywood is already quite thick. I weight 230lbs plus whatever clothing I am wearing and it holds up fine. 5. It's been 4 years now and I love it, no complaints at all. I bought a little tool holder that straps on to the seat post for my plyers and scissors to finish it off :) 6. The base is clear coated anodized aluminum and the post is all aluminum as well so it should be fine :) Use stainless steel screws/bolts for the install. Hope that helps!
Hi David, I did a video on how to test your battery with a multimeter, which you can see here: ua-cam.com/video/8FqHD-GalDA/v-deo.html I have a feeling this is not what you mean though, can you link me to the item you are referring to if it's not what I show in the video? Thanks!
The great think about those Faston type crimp connectors is the are color coded, and the most common are RED, BLUE, and YELLOW. The wire AWG's will always be the same (Ok, so they repeat colors for other sizes, but these are obvious based on huge wire AWG differences), so if you remember this you are golden. RED = 18 - 22 AWG, BLUE = 14 - 16 AWG, YELLOW = 10-12 AWG Insulation color code AWG size range Comments Yellow 26-22 Transparent 24-20 Red 22-16 Blue 16-14 Yellow/Black 16-14 Heavy Duty Yellow 12-10 Red 8 Blue 6 Yellow 4 Brown 2 Blue 1/0 Yellow 2/0 Red 3/0 Blue 4/0
Yes this is very true and most of the kits actually come with a little sticker in it that has these guidelines on them. I can guarantee I've matched the wrong colors in the past lol! Thanks for the post!
No problem and thank you! The pedestal post is a Swivel Eze model 238833LSM1 and you can find that on this product page on Attwood's old site: old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Pedestals--Adjustable-Height Love it, works just as good as the day I bought it a few years ago! The seat itself is from Cabelas.com www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-pro-qualifier-backstop-pro-butt-seat
Hi Dan, Installing a usb like yours, mine has an on & off switch. Found a spare ground underneath the helm like you. Like you I want to connect to the nav lights. Connected the positive from the Nav switch to the positive on the usb and used the spare ground. Nothing. Then I disconnected the main positive from the same switch connected it to the usb with the spare ground. This worked! My question is can I just go this route because my usb has a on & off switch? And should I install an additional fuse link between the jumper positive and the usb? USB has a 6 amp rating total. My switch fuse is 10 amps. Thanks
Hi Ken! Just so I understand, you were connecting the positive that was coming FROM the switch to the USB and when you would turn on the switch AND turn on the USB on/off switch, nothing would work, but when you connected the positive going TO the nav switch to y our USB, it worked?! Something there is weird, did you test the positive coming from the switch to see if you have 12v?
I'm using my Mastercraft strippers from good ol' Canadian Tire: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-automatic-self-adjusting-wire-stripper-0584570p.html?loc=plp
Hi Dan, my USB charger has a power button built in. I connected it directly to the battery and it comes on automatically once I turn the battery on! I have to remember to use the button on the charger to turn it off. I should be able to use the button to turn it on to begin with, but it comes on automatically! what I am missing? it is like plugging the TV to the outlet and the TV comes on automatically without turning it on!
That is really weird, I wonder if that's just the functionality of the USB charger you got and that's how it works. Did you try hitting up the maker of the USB charger to get their feedback?
@@DanRichardFishing I tried to contact the maker and also Amazon where I purchased it two weeks ago and have not heard anything back! The discription says, it has a built in memory so if you turn it off and disconnect the battery, next time you connect the battery it should be off. It works that way only for few minutes, but if I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or more and connect it again the charger will be on!! I agree it is weird!
I would like to find a usb quick charge àlso a usb type C my phone takes too long to charge on the old style it will charge up over night on the fast charge my fitbit watch won't even charge on the òld style so I would love to find built in charger and one's for the cigarette lighter plug
Hi Douglas, the key is to find a charging port with the highest available amps for the quickest charge. for a quick charge USB connection, you want the Quick charge 3.0 format that outputs a total of 36 watts, which is 3 amps per USB port on a dual charger. So for example like this: amzn.to/3idBdaU Hope that helps!
Way too much over explaining. In 4 minutes you have said “charging plug needs to be on a switch with a fuse.” At least 10 times without getting onto showing it. Less talking and more showing would bring your view count up. I had to find a different video because of this dragging on and on. Not trying to tear you down, but an offer some constructive criticism.
Hope you like the video and it helps you out with an easy wiring project to get a USB charging port on the boat, it's super handy to have and extremely simple. If you dig the video, please smack the like button and subscribe at bit.ly/2YbjPJi or click the subscribe button :) Tight lines!
Not a comment, a question? I may have missed it but is the existing fuse sufficient or might you need to increase the amps?
Great stuff. I did this with a "cigarette style" 12v so i could also plug my fish finder in, and the USB port also had a voltage reading so i could ensure i wasn't draining the battery too far.
Nice,sounds like a great install! I like the idea of using it as a plug for your fish finder :)
Another nice video! New sub. I appreciate the humor also!!
Hey great video and your attention to detail is awesome!!! The blue lighting on your boat looks great and yea I know about the hernia surgery, I had to have the same thing done a few years ago. The surgery definitely makes a difference! Thanks again on sharing your video with us and yes I subscribed! :)
Did you go to Shouldice for your surgery as well? Glad I finally got it done, I can't understand how people can go years with a hernia, it was getting bigger and bigger as the months went buy, although I guess the weight training didn't help lol! Thanks so much for the sub, good luck in the 30 days of baits contest!
@@DanRichardFishing yea I agree I don't know how people live with one, I had to have 3 fixed and I had it done 10 years ago, it is worth it and yea they were most likely from the gym and I had one from birth that I never knew I had. I am in Columbus, Ohio and I had my doctor refer me to a hernia specialist, they did a great job and can't wait to see some of your fishing videos!! :)
Good job on the install Dan... really liked you using a good crimper and wire stripper... it definitely makes a difference in the long run... btw, the peas are still biting... caught 16 today and lost 7 others
Thanks Phil, definitely started upgrading my tools for this work when I realized I would be doing more and more videos on DIY for the boat, thanks for the support :) You've been an amazing subscriber, since I started, thank you so much. And stop showing off with your warm weather and sweet peacock bass lol!
@@DanRichardFishing LOL!!
Enjoyed this very informative video!!! Thanks
Thanks so much Larry, glad you found it useful :)
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤
Awesome video dude
Nice work!
Thank you very much!
some more questions on that seat install por favor...
1. did you install the seat yourself ?
2. what length vertical shaft did you buy?
3. it looks like there is no hole drilled for the center post? only bolts through floor and the base?
4. did you put a reinforcing plate under the base/ under the deck>
I weigh 200#-will the contraption hold up?
5. How long have you been using it and do you wish you had bought a different type?
6. I fish saltwater flats and wonder how it will stand up to saltwater environments?
thanks for the help!
Hi Bob! Sorry for the late reply, just been busy with work and home stuff. So here are the answers:
1. I installed the actual seat part to the shaft myself, but the hole in the floor and the post base was already on the boat.
2. The post length is exactly the one I linked to - 25" - 32" adjustable :)
3. The base socket has a inset socket inside that you do need to drill a hole in to the floor to insert it. You can get a better look at what the base socket looks like here: old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/238-Series-Socket-Bases. I'm not 100% sure but the socket hole in the floor for my seat is probably in the 2 3/4" size or so. The chair shaft is 2 3/8". So the base socket fits in to the hole and then the base is bolted or screwed down in to the floor.
4. I do no believe there is any additional reinforcement on the floor... the marine plywood is already quite thick. I weight 230lbs plus whatever clothing I am wearing and it holds up fine.
5. It's been 4 years now and I love it, no complaints at all. I bought a little tool holder that straps on to the seat post for my plyers and scissors to finish it off :)
6. The base is clear coated anodized aluminum and the post is all aluminum as well so it should be fine :) Use stainless steel screws/bolts for the install.
Hope that helps!
Great video. Thanks
You're very welcome Chris, thanks for the comment!
Thank you for the video
Do you have a video on installing a multimeter for trolling motor battery ?
Hi David, I did a video on how to test your battery with a multimeter, which you can see here: ua-cam.com/video/8FqHD-GalDA/v-deo.html
I have a feeling this is not what you mean though, can you link me to the item you are referring to if it's not what I show in the video? Thanks!
The great think about those Faston type crimp connectors is the are color coded, and the most common are RED, BLUE, and YELLOW.
The wire AWG's will always be the same (Ok, so they repeat colors for other sizes, but these are obvious based on huge wire AWG differences), so if you remember this you are golden. RED = 18 - 22 AWG, BLUE = 14 - 16 AWG, YELLOW = 10-12 AWG
Insulation color code AWG size range Comments
Yellow 26-22
Transparent 24-20
Red 22-16
Blue 16-14
Yellow/Black 16-14 Heavy Duty
Yellow 12-10
Red 8
Blue 6
Yellow 4
Brown 2
Blue 1/0
Yellow 2/0
Red 3/0
Blue 4/0
Yes this is very true and most of the kits actually come with a little sticker in it that has these guidelines on them. I can guarantee I've matched the wrong colors in the past lol! Thanks for the post!
Pimpin the boat with them blue LEDs
🔥🔥😎
Not a comment, a question? I may have missed it but is the existing fuse sufficient or might you need to increase the amps?
Nice video again! one question (different topic) where did you get the front seat mount (manu/ model/source? Looking to install one myself. Thanx.
No problem and thank you! The pedestal post is a Swivel Eze model 238833LSM1 and you can find that on this product page on Attwood's old site: old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Pedestals--Adjustable-Height
Love it, works just as good as the day I bought it a few years ago! The seat itself is from Cabelas.com www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-pro-qualifier-backstop-pro-butt-seat
Good spot for a Wago nut...
Hi Dan,
Installing a usb like yours, mine has an on & off switch. Found a spare ground underneath the helm like you. Like you I want to connect to the nav lights. Connected the positive from the Nav switch to the positive on the usb and used the spare ground. Nothing. Then I disconnected the main positive from the same switch connected it to the usb with the spare ground. This worked!
My question is can I just go this route because my usb has a on & off switch? And should I install an additional fuse link between the jumper positive and the usb? USB has a 6 amp rating total. My switch fuse is 10 amps.
Thanks
Hi Ken! Just so I understand, you were connecting the positive that was coming FROM the switch to the USB and when you would turn on the switch AND turn on the USB on/off switch, nothing would work, but when you connected the positive going TO the nav switch to y our USB, it worked?! Something there is weird, did you test the positive coming from the switch to see if you have 12v?
Dan what is the brand and type of wire stripper you are using in this video.
I'm using my Mastercraft strippers from good ol' Canadian Tire: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-automatic-self-adjusting-wire-stripper-0584570p.html?loc=plp
Hi Dan, my USB charger has a power button built in. I connected it directly to the battery and it comes on automatically once I turn the battery on! I have to remember to use the button on the charger to turn it off. I should be able to use the button to turn it on to begin with, but it comes on automatically! what I am missing? it is like plugging the TV to the outlet and the TV comes on automatically without turning it on!
That is really weird, I wonder if that's just the functionality of the USB charger you got and that's how it works. Did you try hitting up the maker of the USB charger to get their feedback?
@@DanRichardFishing I tried to contact the maker and also Amazon where I purchased it two weeks ago and have not heard anything back! The discription says, it has a built in memory so if you turn it off and disconnect the battery, next time you connect the battery it should be off. It works that way only for few minutes, but if I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or more and connect it again the charger will be on!! I agree it is weird!
I would like to find a usb quick charge àlso a usb type C my phone takes too long to charge on the old style it will charge up over night on the fast charge my fitbit watch won't even charge on the òld style so I would love to find built in charger and one's for the cigarette lighter plug
Hi Douglas, the key is to find a charging port with the highest available amps for the quickest charge. for a quick charge USB connection, you want the Quick charge 3.0 format that outputs a total of 36 watts, which is 3 amps per USB port on a dual charger. So for example like this: amzn.to/3idBdaU
Hope that helps!
😅👍🏻👍🏻
🤓
Way too much over explaining. In 4 minutes you have said “charging plug needs to be on a switch with a fuse.” At least 10 times without getting onto showing it. Less talking and more showing would bring your view count up. I had to find a different video because of this dragging on and on. Not trying to tear you down, but an offer some constructive criticism.