I can definitely understand why you would want to solder the wiring but I can tell you from experience that those posit taps actually do work and they are reliable. They're nothing like the stupid clamp on ones that come with cheaper equipment.
The fuel curve sucks- but nothing a Dynojet power commander w/ the autotune WBO2 box won't fix. As for the velocity stacks- there is a reason airplane wings aren't thin in the front.
Interesting as always. What was the baseline power with no mods? It didn't look like the Jetprime added anything for the faff involved, or is it essential to optimize the fuelling for the arrow pipe and bellmouths? Different topic....what kind of watch is that?
We started with a base map that came in the module, which put us around 92bhp. Non of the mods made massive differences, but any gains are worth having if they're as easy as a few minutes and some dyno time! For reference our cf moto 650, with lots of expensive engine parts and a lot of build time, made 92bhp on the same dyno. So it's already faster than all but the very best kawasaki's, with a stock engine! And the watch is a Christopher Ward c11 makaira Pro 500. I like my mechanical watches, and that's the daily beater
Hi Dave, I'm gong for third time lucky asking this question in a comment 😂.I really like the brake line setup I've seen you use in a few vids and want a similar setup on my bikes. I assume they are only custom order from Hel / B&C ? Could you give some details on those elbow/tee fittings - I can't see/find them on the Hel website! Also, how much slack do you aim for between each caliper and their elbow/tee fitting on the bottom yoke when routing round the outside of the fork legs ?
It's called an H line setup (suppose it should be h not H). If you can measure with the bike on a headstock stand and the forks topped out, I just run a tape measure on the route I want, ideally with just a little slack in case you alter how far through the yoke you run the forks. Trying not to have the line tight against the leg, so it doesn't rub. I don't have a specific measurement though. If you speak to B+C they can make them however you like. Banjo ends can be almost any angle at the calipers and mc, colours, etc can all be custom. Hope that helps
The difference is absolutely minimal. A correctly maintained x ring chain is very nearly as good for power as a non ring, and lasts much longer. We also struggle to get a high strength rated non ring chain as they're mostly made for motox and would struggle with road racing. Add in the extra maintenance time and it's really not worth it
A bit of a weird one just came to mind Dave. Are you not worried that people you are going to be racing against in the same class, may benefit from the info you are sharing here? Could it be the difference between winning and losing a race? I know there is a great community in the paddock, people tend to help other teams/racers out when they need it, so I guess it's not really an issue but I'm just curious.
@@obsession_engineering Im sure your competition at these levels of tuning have already gone done the same path.. Im looking at the class after decades away.. & wondering what the costs/benefits would look like of the RS/Trophy bikes of Aprillia's vs the highly modded competition.. older age instills sensible budgeting mindsets .. & thinking the Aprillia would be the sensible option for the same end goal.. being competitive!.. cheers from NZ
How has the Rapid Bike module been treating you? Any issues? I’ve been trying to figure out which tuning solution I want to go with between Rapid Bike Module, or upmap
The ignition map can create a throttle drop out if you're not careful. It's got lots of features so has advantages but if you can get the up map to fuel correctly it'd save additional wiring
The stock shifter is OK, no problem with the module, but it does have a lot of movement to make the switch, so we had HM made a strain guage version which was better
Hi Dave , is the Yamaha R7 not in the game because it’s so down on stock power compared to the RS? From the TT footage I didn’t see anyone using one , I really enjoy your honest methodical vids , keep up the good work .
They tune really well, but the current TT rules mean throttle bodies on bikes over 650cc can't be bored, which very much limits the yamaha. Hopefully the rules can be tweaked to let them in next year
@@obsession_engineering I knew you’d know! Thanks fella. Between tt plus and yours and other riders vids this year’s event was incredible,I lived every min! the tt is in my bucket list just not sure when .
@@obsession_engineering Were you ever able to fix the dip in midrange from having the Jet Prime stacks installed. I really don't want to give up alot of midrange. I am building a RS660 to run in 4 hour endurance races and would rather have more midrange than top end.
Verstehe irgendwie nicht was die da machen das verändern / tunen bringt irgendwie gar nichts meine serienmäßig rs 660 hat 101 ps und die tingeln da bei unter 95 herum und reden von einem guten Ergebnis sorry aber versteh ich nicht bin aber auch nicht vom Fachgebiet 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Ahh, the new Sunday routine. A brew and some wavey Dave action. Super
What a great sound that 660 makes.
That was great, looking forward to seeing it on track.
Really interesting results
Thanks for posting
I can definitely understand why you would want to solder the wiring but I can tell you from experience that those posit taps actually do work and they are reliable. They're nothing like the stupid clamp on ones that come with cheaper equipment.
Can’t wait for the track time to see this little beast fly!🥇🚀💯
Good man Dave, love your videos 👍
Nice detailed video as usual 👍
The fuel curve sucks- but nothing a Dynojet power commander w/ the autotune WBO2 box won't fix. As for the velocity stacks- there is a reason airplane wings aren't thin in the front.
LOL
cool! cheers.
This is great!
Interesting as always. What was the baseline power with no mods? It didn't look like the Jetprime added anything for the faff involved, or is it essential to optimize the fuelling for the arrow pipe and bellmouths?
Different topic....what kind of watch is that?
We started with a base map that came in the module, which put us around 92bhp. Non of the mods made massive differences, but any gains are worth having if they're as easy as a few minutes and some dyno time!
For reference our cf moto 650, with lots of expensive engine parts and a lot of build time, made 92bhp on the same dyno. So it's already faster than all but the very best kawasaki's, with a stock engine!
And the watch is a Christopher Ward c11 makaira Pro 500. I like my mechanical watches, and that's the daily beater
Hi Dave, I'm gong for third time lucky asking this question in a comment 😂.I really like the brake line setup I've seen you use in a few vids and want a similar setup on my bikes. I assume they are only custom order from Hel / B&C ? Could you give some details on those elbow/tee fittings - I can't see/find them on the Hel website! Also, how much slack do you aim for between each caliper and their elbow/tee fitting on the bottom yoke when routing round the outside of the fork legs ?
It's called an H line setup (suppose it should be h not H). If you can measure with the bike on a headstock stand and the forks topped out, I just run a tape measure on the route I want, ideally with just a little slack in case you alter how far through the yoke you run the forks. Trying not to have the line tight against the leg, so it doesn't rub. I don't have a specific measurement though.
If you speak to B+C they can make them however you like. Banjo ends can be almost any angle at the calipers and mc, colours, etc can all be custom.
Hope that helps
@@obsession_engineering Thanks Dave, that's really helpful 👍. I have to say this setup just looks so neat/right and makes other setups look wrong.
I'm sure you have considered chains without "O" rings if not they are definitely worth a bit more horsepower.
The difference is absolutely minimal. A correctly maintained x ring chain is very nearly as good for power as a non ring, and lasts much longer. We also struggle to get a high strength rated non ring chain as they're mostly made for motox and would struggle with road racing. Add in the extra maintenance time and it's really not worth it
Gd stuff sir.
A bit of a weird one just came to mind Dave. Are you not worried that people you are going to be racing against in the same class, may benefit from the info you are sharing here? Could it be the difference between winning and losing a race? I know there is a great community in the paddock, people tend to help other teams/racers out when they need it, so I guess it's not really an issue but I'm just curious.
I'd rather beat them in a straight fight and I'll happily sell them the parts or the services to build a good bike 😁
@@obsession_engineering Sounds like a win-win to me no pun intended :D
@@obsession_engineering Im sure your competition at these levels of tuning have already gone done the same path.. Im looking at the class after decades away.. & wondering what the costs/benefits would look like of the RS/Trophy bikes of Aprillia's vs the highly modded competition.. older age instills sensible budgeting mindsets .. & thinking the Aprillia would be the sensible option for the same end goal.. being competitive!.. cheers from NZ
How has the Rapid Bike module been treating you? Any issues? I’ve been trying to figure out which tuning solution I want to go with between Rapid Bike Module, or upmap
The ignition map can create a throttle drop out if you're not careful.
It's got lots of features so has advantages but if you can get the up map to fuel correctly it'd save additional wiring
Does it unlock throttle response to 100% opening in all modes de restricted table and does it help with thermal management like early fan on
It can't change ecu switch properties such as the fan but we have no need to change that. Also doesn't change throttle opening
@@obsession_engineering so better off with a flash then like brentune
And what about OEM quickshifter. Is it working with Rapidbike or it should be changed to work properly?
The stock shifter is OK, no problem with the module, but it does have a lot of movement to make the switch, so we had HM made a strain guage version which was better
Hi Dave , is the Yamaha R7 not in the game because it’s so down on stock power compared to the RS?
From the TT footage I didn’t see anyone using one , I really enjoy your honest methodical vids , keep up the good work .
They tune really well, but the current TT rules mean throttle bodies on bikes over 650cc can't be bored, which very much limits the yamaha. Hopefully the rules can be tweaked to let them in next year
@@obsession_engineering I knew you’d know! Thanks fella. Between tt plus and yours and other riders vids this year’s event was incredible,I lived every min! the tt is in my bucket list just not sure when .
Mine has 98hp. Highly modified MotoAmerica pro bike.
Did you guys end up keeping the JetPrime Stacks?
On short circuits I preferred the stock stacks after testing back to back. They seem a little smoother!
@@obsession_engineering Were you ever able to fix the dip in midrange from having the Jet Prime stacks installed. I really don't want to give up alot of midrange. I am building a RS660 to run in 4 hour endurance races and would rather have more midrange than top end.
Also have you tried using 2 of the oem short stacks. I have heard that also works pretty good.
Any power commander or something similar for this bike?
There is a power commander available now. We used a rapidbike module and there is reflash software coming too
Verstehe irgendwie nicht was die da machen das verändern / tunen bringt irgendwie gar nichts meine serienmäßig rs 660 hat 101 ps und die tingeln da bei unter 95 herum und reden von einem guten Ergebnis sorry aber versteh ich nicht bin aber auch nicht vom Fachgebiet 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
The UK bikes at standard are usually 88-90 bhp, 92-95 with an exhaust and map. There are of course plenty of variables, correction values etc too
Can I B U ?
Overall a loss of power- not good results.
A loss compared to what?