1.5 million views, and probaly 1.2 million taking credit for your video and teaching lessons here. that means this was a awesome video, well done. thanks man.
_Just stumbled across this vid. Yep, I had this happen 6 months ago on my wife's Pontiac GTP. She had burnt the dust boot around the caliper piston and blued the rotor, probably made it hard as diamond xD. I bought a new caliper, rotor and pads. Like you, I couldn't get the caliper to budge until I loosened the bleeder. I went back to Autozone and bought the new flexible line and everything's worked like normal since._ _I took the old line to work with me (Ind Maint Tech since '88) and performed an autopsy on it and found the inner liner had split and folded backwards at the crimped hyd fitting, at the bracket (i guess because of it flexing ). And yes it was acting like a check valve, just like you said._ _I know these new Poly-Lined hyd hoses protect Industrial systems from rubber debris in sensitive systems, but they're not designed to be flexed on a regular basis, like they are in autos. Like most all plastics the Poly liners get brittle over time._ _I'm sure your vid will help thousands of people. I think during the next oil change/tire rotation, I'm going to replace the passenger side flex line also._
finally some new info for a nightmare problem, after changing suspect calliper with used part still rotor was seized solid now i will try hose replacement as a last resort
I remembered watching this when you originally posted it, and referred back to it this week. Turns out I had a bad hose on my old Town & Country minivan. You do a great job of calmly, methodically diagnosing problems. I would have figured it out on my own, but not without a lot of head scratching and wasted time. Thank you for making these wonderful videos! I always look forward to them!
How likely would a brake hose get stuck and act like a check valve? If it ever did would it make any sense to just blow out the hose using compressed air and re-use? Thanks.
RadioRex72 I have a front brake hanging up on our '95 Buick Riviera, it's overheated one of the rotors and caused it to warp more than it already was. I noticed that when I let off of the brake pedal after a stop that the brakes gradually release. I have a feeling it's a bad front brake hose but I'm going to check everything.....And he does explain things well, "I like the way he talks"! Lol, he kinda reminds me of the way Joe Namath sounds.....
Wow! I'd give this two thumbs up if I could! So far one of the most detailed and best explained videos on the subject I've seen. Thanks for taking time to share this!
some very useful tips, thanks...that gravity bleed is something I've never seen before so for me working on my car by myself most of the time that is very useful...
Changed the caliper. brakes were still sticking just on one side. I was pulling my hair out then found your video. it was the hose. thank you very much. problem solved
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've replaced everything but the hoses, lines, and expensive stuff and still dragging. Apparently this is fairly prevalent in Ford F150 in the 2002_2006 or so era. As is brake line rust. So here comes the penetrating oil and trip to the ijit auto parts place for hoses..... Thanks man, nice troubleshooting and video!!!
Hi Guys. Old mechanic here, managed brake shops that got to remedy jobbers work that was no good. NEVER reuse a dodgy hose. The very first comment provided is gold.
I had same problem. Made same fix, still had same problem. On a hunch I pulled parking brake release....fixed it!! No my parking light indicator was NOT on. 2008 Silverado. It was barely barely engaged but apparently enough to grab the driver's side front wheel.
thanks..I am fighting a problem with fluid leaking out around the copper washers and hose/banjo bolt.I replaced the caliper since I saw a defect around where banjo bolt goes thru and also tride new washers with the new caliper and it still seeps,but less.Never had this before.Only option is to try a new banjo bolt and or a new hose.Fluid is not coming out of hose or it's pressed on fitting.
+newyota1 Would think it would seal with the copper ones , if every mating surface, on both sides of the washers looks good , clean and new washers, is there a crack someplace .
I’m still amazed at the banjo design and how 2 copper washers can stop brake fluid from leaking. If I was designing it I would have had a screw down fitting like on the other end of the hose has.
I recently replace a caliper on a 95 dodge b2500 van and was still having issues. Your video pointed out my mistake. I hate to admit it but I left off one of the copper washers on the banjo fitting... Thanks for the video,helped me fix my error. Now to bleed the entire system...
Thanks! Great video, and a natural teaching style! This is helping me get my work truck back on the road! I could watch you working on cars and talking about it all day!
Thank you greatly! I've been trying to figure out where I'm having problems for 2 days now. I haven't been able to find a single thing. Your video is the only thing that has helped me and you answered everything I needed to know. Thank you again!
Wilber that is a great way to bleed the brakes, I like it. I just greased the pins and it seems to have stopped the front left brake binding, if it sticks again I will replace the hose and caliper and use your method of bleeding the brakes.
Thank you, my old reliable Malibu 2006 got the same problem, I replaced both front hoses and problem solved, next I will replace the two rear hoses too just in case, after all they all are same age. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. My front right caliper got stuck yesterday and happened before two years ago. Now I have some leads on where to start troubleshooting.
Good eye Ziggy . I saw it on the video too, The rotor is loose on there. I took it all apart and re lubed the slides, then realized the pads were wore on a taper. I think that may be doing it. Thanks for watching .
I was going to comment about the uneven slider pins movement also. And not to be a broken record if a bunch of people already said it . Then I saw this comment and apparently you caught it. I just ordered that permatex silicone brake lube. Its supposed to be good to 3000F. and wont swell the rubber boots on the sliders. I will find out after time. I did alot of research before I decided on that specific type. Hope I made a good choice.
I have a 2005 Ford E150. I cannot find the problem of my front brakes dragging heavily. So far, I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, and brake lines from the caliper to the connection on the body frame. I have not replaced the brake pads, as they are close to brand new. I also did not change the rotors, as they look pretty good. My ABS light does not go on, and the fuse is good. I have followed your utube and tried everything. Before the white coats come and get me, please help me if you can. Desperate Ron
If you have new calipers , we will assume it is good and the slides are free . thinking it has the slides in caliper . If slides are in caliper bracket then make sure they move in and out free. . You said brake pads look good . but do they slide freely . If they go into caliper bracket , make sure they slide around by hand . If attach to caliper then they will be fixed there and caliper would be the sliding part. . So make sure all the mechanical parts are in good working order . if so then see if holdin fluid pressure , by releasing bleeder . But a lot of tines dragging braks that one can still drive on is a slide stuck or pads stuck if they are the ones that float in caliper bracket .
Nice video. I have subscribed. The mechanic changed new master cylinder and bled but still have spongy brake sometimes, so I guess it is the caliper and maybe hose. Most of times I get spongy brake when making left U turn while slow driving. Any advice please?
I gravity bleed 90% of my brake hydraulics...Is that a floating rotor...?..looked like the top was pushing a little more than the bottom..Nicely sorted mate.
Great Job ! Never Would Believe The Brake Line Would Swell THANKS this Vid Helped Me Diagnose My Issuse Which indeed was The Brake Line !!! After removing the Brake Hose I blew compressed air Through the new and the old Brake Hoss and the differance was Dramatic! Night and Day !!! Was so fustrated because the hanging caliper seemed like the bearings Where bad , but they were not bad ....spent 60+ bucks to learn that lesson Additionally Becareful when disconnecting the hard brake line from the body Mined needed 12hrs and some heat applied before i felt confident enough that I would not Break that hard line while disconnecting the flexible brake hose GOOD LUCK all and THE LORD BLESS YOU #JesusIsTheAnswer
This is really helpful,, it was my hose,,,good on ya bro for doing passing the knolage,,, ,i have a feeling there will be a seat in Valhalla reserved for you,,🍀
Thank you for posting, I am getting ready to replace the brake lines and 're-work my caliper' ~ this video is helpful ~ I suspect the brake line, but (have all of the parts) to proceed further if needed.
Had the hose /acting as a check valve issue before.Of course I thought it was the caliper like you said until hours of frustration and two calipers.Long before you tube could help me.
Thank you sir!!! This is probably the best informational video I've seen on here don't skip steps and you take the time to describe what you're doing.. One question what is gravity bleeding and how do I do it? Does car have to be running? I'm guessing with cylinder cap off not running
Gravity bleed i loosen master cylinder cap . then open bleeder and let fluid run . just do not let master cylinder run out of brake fluid. no need to start car.
awesome video and a lot of very important details comes from a pro tech and deserve thump up from me and add % 100 on top of it ,thank you very much master tech.
Great video; thanks for sharing! I just replaced both front brake calipers/brackets on my son's 2007 Toyota Corolla and was able to verify the left caliper was in fact the culprit in this case.
Ive got a heat issue on both front rims and one rear. since its more than one wheel, could it be the ABS or just air in the line? I did take fuses out of ABS system but its still hot.
Prob not the abs unit . Only way to know for sure is to look and diagnose them . Could be calipers , caliper slides , pads not moving free , brake hose , Would need to see if something was not moving free , or if fluid pressure is not releasing , Could be abs unit , but many other things go wrong first
I bled the hole system and my pads are sticking to rotor, what would it be? The piston doesn't retract like 2 or 3 mm but when i push it, it retrack very easily. Whats the problem?
Are the caliper slides free , depending on the vehicle could the pads be stuck in the caliper bracket , If you push the brake pedal and release it will not move far , but just far enough for the rotor to turn fairly freely .
great step by step visual video. I rely on these a lot. I do have a problem I can't find. 93 bronco. and BOTH front wheel hubs / lug nuts are so hot after driving short in town that you can't touch them. To fix I have replaced (on both sides) : pads, rotors, calipers, rubber brake hose from caliper and master cylinder. since the lug nuts are hot from smelly hot brakes on BOTH sids, I believe it has to be up at master cylinder. Could it be the metal brake lines ? Could it be the metal valve conection point at mastercylinder? I did not replace that nor did i replace the metal brake lines. This is driving me nuts. I have put 700 miles on the new pads/rotors calipers... still getting too hot like brakes are dragging.. any ideas?
Thank you for making this video but I follow all steps and was trying to stop at a red light after doing about 45 and the brakes went out and i smashed into a mini van. Any ideas?
Had this on my f150 as I was doing min restoration on my 2011 . Glen auto parts manager told me to take both front hoses he was right both were causing the callipers to stick on
After replacing my rear end spider gears i put everything back the way it was, but when i got to bleeding the brakes only my front brakes would get fluid coming out, but not my back ones, my brake pedal wouldnt get hard, its loose because the back brakes aren't getting fluid through, what do you think the problem might be? Some people told me it wasn't the master cylinder because my front brakes were getting fluid so it is working.
Assuming all air is out. You could try with brake pedal pushed loosen a few fittings and see where the pressure stops make sure some pressure is at the rear line coming out of master cylinder Then work down the line or if easy try loosening the rear brake line going in to the rubber hose in the rear . Also if you had the rear line off and bleed a lot trying to fix the rears , then keep in mind that a lot of brake pumping can suds fluid and make it hard to get air out . If pushing the pedal ,i push once or no more than twice slowly then open bleeder . You are moving fluid not building a pedal it will come with moving fluid in and air out.
On the right rear wheel I can still spin it after he has his foot on the pedal all the way to the floor. I couldn't separate the caliber from the rotor by pulling back with a screwdriver. I noticed the bottom sliding pin needed greased and it had a small crack in the rubber. I figure that's where the problem originated. I noticed on your video when you went to hit the brakes the bottom pin was not moving just the top one was. Seem like to me that it was still sticking.
If the e brake cable attaches to the rear caliper , the piston has to be rotated in . If e brake is not directly attached to caliper it should just push in . Also newer cars need to be put into service mode to do the rear calipers . Yes you are correct both slides should move freely
Great video, very well explained, too bad no one in the comments knows how drum brakes work, ah well they are relics now a days to the domestic industry
If you suspect a brake line causing the caliper to drag just pump up the brakes and verify the brake is still dragging then crack the bleeded open. If fluid squirts out then there is still pressure in the system. Then also see if the caliper freed up. Not sure how much of a squirt is too much? Compare to the other side, as long as the other side is not hanging up also.
I had both front rubber brake lines collapse on my 95 dodge neon. I went through a brake rotor and 2 sets of pads before I figured it out because I'd never heard of the line doing that.
Text my brakes marotta McCaleb and my brake lines on one side I replace one brake line two years ago for having the same problem when I run the car or truck for an hour that's the side that I just replace the line and it's grabbing its this is grabbing my brakes my brakes start smoking a Dodge Dakota 1999 pickup I need help finding the problem everything is been changed on the front
I have the same problem with a cadillac allante 1988, I replaced the caliper ,twice and two new pads and still problem with a stuck caliper. But I think you are right about the hose, I'll replace the hose. Thanks
To anneal copper crush gaskets. You heat copper with a gas torch to cherry red then quench in water. I had a stuck piston on a Kai Truck left front piston was seized up. I ended up using the grease gun trick to remove the piston for cleanup.
so what does it mean if 3 of 4 brakes ares ticking? 2 front disk rotors were 50 deg c after an hour drive and one rear drum was pretty warm too. i just changed the front pads last fall but rear shoes need to be done now too?
A lot of things can cause it . rubber hoses , stuck calipers , Pads stuck not moving , Caliper slide not moving . Drum could be stuck parking brake comes to mind first . Hope you get it all sorted out
@@wtbm123 i just went and installed some raybestos drag reduction clips between my brake pads and i can clearly see they are rubbing, theres a square hole where i can see the resting state of the pads is touching. Especially on the side of the piston, the other side mightve had a 0.25 mm space . Maybe my replacement pads were just a hair too thick, maybe i just need to agressively brake with it every time i drive it and wear them out a bit. Maybe i will just end up replacing both calipers and/or both rotors sometime soon.
I too noticed that the top of the caliper was moving more than the bottom... I wonder if the bottom caliper pin might have had some rust in it, or not enough lubrication, and was sticking a bit?
I noticed that too. I thought that looked odd. Also, it was recommended that brake grease be used to lub slides. That is not recommended because the boots on the slides are a rubber product and brake grease a petroleum product will dissolve rubber over time. Only high temperature silicone based grease is recommended for caliper slide bolts. Silicone will not dissolve rubber boots.
+Ken In Atlanta I guess i did not know they made non silicone brake grease . Not sure why it looked that way , watching vid i agree it looked like one was moving more than the other , but both were cleaned and lubed , but it does look odd .
+wtbm123 Thanks for the followup. I should have started by saying that I always wondered how a hose could act as a check valve. You did an outstanding job showing how that could occure. I live in the south and the under side of cars down here look almost brand new so I'm going to suspect slides and calipers first before brake hoses for sticking caliper diagnosis. Here are two silicone products that work with caliper slides. 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste and Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE
Yes you can, If the inside is not pitted you can rebuild a caliper. But finding a rebuild kit is not easy anymore,and lots of times a kit and piston is as much or more than a rebuilt one. For me i can replace most customers calipers for them cheaper than buying a kit and spending the time to rebuild .Thanks for watching and commenting.
Also, don't overlook the caliper pins, because if they don't have enough lubrication, that alone can cause the caliper to stick. Remove the pins, inspect them, remove any rust, and coat them with brake caliper grease-then reinsert, and see if that solves the sticking problem.
Awesome information and saved me a lot of grief low and behold it was the the hose great video the clamp on the control arm had rusted up and restricting the flow all good. Thank You
I've got a 2000 Olds Alero with sticking caliper(s), I think its the front passenger side as when you hit the brakes it kind of pulls that way a little bit. I don't drive the car too often, it sat about a month and ahalf and when I went to drive it it felt like the brakes were dragging...severely. I truely believe its rust/corrosion but will check those lines out too. Thanks!
Randy Herrel Slide pins may be the issue if sits alot . The side it is pulling to , is probably working better than the other side . I am sure you will figure it out when you look in there . Thanks for watching and commenting
wtbm123 Actually, both sides the wheels were "hot". I think both sides are sticking just the psngr side more so. Will be tearing into it later today. Thanks for posting stuff like this on UA-cam, its a great help to all of us out here! This is the 1st time I have ever utilized UA-cam as a tool to help me fix something. I can tell ya...it won't be the last!
Thanks for the video...I just bought a 91 oldsmobile station wagon and the front brakes were not working at all..I put on a set of new caipers and pads..plenty of brakes now but the driver side was sticking and causing the car to pull to that side...also it would stop sticking sometimes but then it didn't work at all because when braking the right would pull and I had to turn the steering wheel to the left to keep the car on the road..I exchanged the driver side caliper for another because I thought it was defective but the newest one is doing the same..with the wheel off if I hit the brakes it gets tight and will not release until I open the bleed valve a little..then it spins free..the rubber line is new looking but I took it off and I could shoot air through it in both directions...my ABS light is not on but I wonder if it could be a problem?I might try and bypass it because that thing looks expensive!...I don't think the master cylinder is bad because the other front wheel is working good..could it be that I don't have the system bled good enough?...I am by myself and have to wait for my neighbor to pump the brakes for me..if you have a minute maybe you might think of something I didn't..thanks
You say it sticks until you loosen bleeder . . Next just to be sure do it again and loosen the metal line going in to the hose , on master cylinder side , if the caliper releases then hose is good , if not bad , if releases then keep going and loosening fittings till you find where it releases . it may act different with fluid pressure on it than with just air . I would not think air in system would stop caliper from releasing. A lot of times if top is off master cylinder and you loosen a bleeder it will gravity bleed on its own . that is how i do a lot of them .
When you were pressing on the brakes, was that bleeder open or closed because from my understanding its supposed to be closed, right? I think I just missed it?
2013 Kia Sorento EX brake pads crumbling up breaking apart metal backing plate came off of the inside pad and when open caliber to check the Piston already is retracted am I looking at a blocked brake hose?
Yes if hose is restricting , it will hold pressure all the way back to master cyl. , But if loosen hose from hard line and pressure goes away , the hose was the issue
@@wtbm123 many don't realize there is a RESIDUAL VALVE in many master cylinders and proportioning valves set at 2 lbs for disc brakes and 10 lbs for drum and it dosent take much to clog up the tiny orifices causing pressure to increase and hold brakes on.
Hi its Ron again. Totally confused. I tried your suggestions, however, I’m confused as to-weather the stainless clip is inst. properly. The clips are a different length. Can you tell me which clip goes on left side of the bracket or the right? I would like to try and send you photos.
Thanks-I just got a new banjo bolt to install.Hope that fixes it.If not last thing is hose.Really can't see anything wrong there though.Problem is very small.
I've replaced my passenger calipers 2 times in 5 months and they recently started getting really hot and you could smell it burning so I'm guessing the brake hose is the problem.
I got this piston not going back in so did new pins push the piston in and out ok so rubber lines must be blocked so new braided lines and new fluid all done
is there fluid pressure at both front wheels . Sometimes a back one not working can also make one pull . If pulling hard right then i would assume the left one is not working . Is the flex line bad . Do the brakes pump up after moving truck , could it be a wheel bearing loose and pushing the left caliper back . I would make sure the brakes on left has about the same fluid pressure as the right .
If you are working in a shop . and find a bad , or not working properly caliper , It is usually faster and cheaper in the long run for a customer , than paying a guy to spend the time needed to properly rebuild a caliper . Some calipers are easy and fast , but some get time spent tearing it apart and cleaning . Then if the caliper for some reason is not rebuildable , then customer would have to pay for that time , and new parts .And at least our local parts stores stock calipers, where here you usually need to order rebuild kits and that takes a extra day usually. If only slides are stuck , then i usually fix those because they usually go smooth , with out finding any hidden problems .
My front driverside rotor runs hotter than the passengerside + i have a light brakeshudder when braking at speeds above ca 30 mph. Both rotor and pads both sides changed (ATE brand) a year ago. Brakehose looks good. Opening the bleedervalve I can by hand easily press the pistons back in, as the brakefluid passes through the valve. Likewise, with the caliper closed I can pump the brakes and still easily pry the caliper open with a flatheaded screwdriver or even just moving the caliper on the glidepins by hand. The pads were not exactly moving smoothly in the brake hardware, so i wired the hardware down and filed the pads to fit nice and loose. Still didn't solve the problem... Glidepins are gliding nicely, but they are slightly rusted. At this point, I'm thinking the caliper's not the issue, nor is the pads or the hose. What's left? Master cylinder, glidepins and rotor.. But the rotor is only a year old.. Been scratching my head for a while now, help much much appreciated!
If sure all moves free and well . If you drive a short distance trying not to use any brake does it get hot then . or is it when using the brakes alot . If the latter check to see if the cooler side is working . If calipers are back . up on jack stands . Hit the brakes a few times then turn tires to see if either is dragging .
@@wtbm123 Yeah, driving about 15km without using the brakes at all, nearly rolling to a stop = driver side too hot to keep my fingers on the rotor for more than a split second, while the passenger side is almost cool to the touch. Just got a new pair of glidepins, new brake hardware and new pads. Figured I'm gonna try and change the hardware first, second glidepins and then the pads to see if any one thing will fix the issue. If I still get the slightly hotter rotor on the driver side (also a little bit of a brake pulsation), I'll get a new rotor, thinking that this one might have warped slightly due to the heat.
Yesterday I changed the hardware on the overheating side, drove the 15kms and that side was cooler than the passengerside! The car rollent noticeably better. Here's the kicker; today the driverside rotor is back to being way hot while the passengerside is cool to the touch. Interesting this ..
@@handleby I got it to work okay-ish, but the problem came and went until I changed the front calipers this spring! Now the car rolls noticeably better, and consumption is down by about 10% 😆
Open bleeder and see if there is fluid pressure staying on caliper . Make sure caliper slides on slides . And make sure pads slide and not stuck in place . if you have to tap the pads in to place they are to tight
Take cap off master cylinder. Pull with screwdriver. If it does not move, loosed bleeder. Pull again. If moves freely with bleeder open, probably brake hose deteriorated. Put cap back on master cylinder. Is that about it? I changed my pads and rotors after the driver's side was grounding and my pads fell out when I was driving. I did not loosed the banjo bolt because I did not expect to replace my caliper. Not only would my caliper not compress, the metal cylinder in the piston was partially ground away. The calipers were only about a year or 2 old. I would have changed the hose "just in case" but I was too exhausted. I am about 6 weeks past and my brakes seem to be making noise. I am about to take off my wheel and see what I can figure out.
yes , check like that to see if caliper or hose is bad . if the pads fell out and piston on caliper was hitting rotor , may be a good idea to replace that caliper , especially if it will not push back . if it wore piston in caliper and no longer flat and square to rotor , you will probably have issues with caliper anyhow as it would want to cock the piston to the side and maybe bind up.
I have 1990 Corvette all the brakes were working as they should. I changed pads on all four wheels. Now the front passenger side sticks. I replaced the caliper and the rubber line. Still sticking. ?????????HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@wtbm123, when I c clamp squeeze one of the two pistons in (a), the other (b) is pushed out. When I c clamp (b) this easy one that pushed out, and squeeze it in then the other piston (a) doesn't push out--so the oil goes back out to the line, I guess. So that's the stuck one (a)? Or is that normal dual piston operation?
question, I've got a 95 gmc k1500 that's had a drag on my left driver tire for along time now. I've replaced the hose 3x, the caliper 3x, rotor 2x, the cv axles 1x, master cylinder 3x, brake booster 2x and the hub assembly 2x. I'm out of ideas on what to do next. but I know its the caliper sticking because it'll spin freely with out the caliper on it. any advice would be appreciated.
If nothing mechanical at the wheel is bad , like stuck slides , then next thought something is holding line pressure. If dragging brake , and loosen bleeder and then free , it is fluid pressure. . can go back up line and loosen fittings till you see where the restriction is . Also if it has the abs control under in the engine compartment , they sometimes go bad .
When you opened the bleeder screw to test for caliper movement, did that introduce air into the system, that would require a gravity bleed, or did you only gravity bleed them because you had to replace the hose? Please answer this morning if at all possible, as I'm working on a friend's brakes today, and want to have her car back to her tonight if I can, with nice firm (and non-dragging) brakes!! And thanks a lot for the excellent video, it's EXTREMELY helpful. Gonna find out in a few hours whether it's just the dried out slider pins (causing the brakes to drag), or the hose is bad also... Thanks again!!
Just opening a bleeder ,usually will not let air in ,if you do not move brake peddle..even pushing piston back with bleeder loose will push fluid out ,not letting air in. Now if you some how manually pulled the piston out on a caliper with bleeder open it will suck air in but not if pushing piston in . or if bleeding by peddle and peddle is let up with bleeder open it will suck air in. I gravity bleed because of replacing parts. Most cars you can change a hose or caliper and let gravity bleed to remove air. Just gravity bleeding will usually get all air out. Also you prob already know but should only use a made for brake grease on slide pins.
This video was very helpful especially when you showed how the brake caliper is supposed to move when you mash brakes. Thank you for sharing.
I've never gravity bled brakes before... always had to have someone apply the footbrake a number of times.. Great clip.
I do most by gravity , Thank you for stopping in and commenting
1.5 million views, and probaly 1.2 million taking credit for your video and teaching lessons here. that means this was a awesome video, well done. thanks man.
Thank you for the comment and the info
Ive been working on my own vehicles for a long time and never knew the hose could be the problem awesome video thank you
Thanks for watching and commenting
_Just stumbled across this vid. Yep, I had this happen 6 months ago on my wife's Pontiac GTP. She had burnt the dust boot around the caliper piston and blued the rotor, probably made it hard as diamond xD. I bought a new caliper, rotor and pads. Like you, I couldn't get the caliper to budge until I loosened the bleeder. I went back to Autozone and bought the new flexible line and everything's worked like normal since._
_I took the old line to work with me (Ind Maint Tech since '88) and performed an autopsy on it and found the inner liner had split and folded backwards at the crimped hyd fitting, at the bracket (i guess because of it flexing ). And yes it was acting like a check valve, just like you said._
_I know these new Poly-Lined hyd hoses protect Industrial systems from rubber debris in sensitive systems, but they're not designed to be flexed on a regular basis, like they are in autos. Like most all plastics the Poly liners get brittle over time._
_I'm sure your vid will help thousands of people. I think during the next oil change/tire rotation, I'm going to replace the passenger side flex line also._
Thank you for watching and commenting
Thanks for sharing the autopsy report. I was gonna do the same thing lol.
finally some new info for a nightmare problem, after changing suspect calliper with used part still rotor was seized solid now i will try hose replacement as a last resort
Hope it helps
U can always tell if a mechanic is good by attention to detail. This guy has my respect.
Gene Friedman devil into details suttle
THANKS MAN. Many People will save money and appreciate this and other helpful videos for many years to come.
Glad it was helpful!
I remembered watching this when you originally posted it, and referred back to it this week. Turns out I had a bad hose on my old Town & Country minivan. You do a great job of calmly, methodically diagnosing problems. I would have figured it out on my own, but not without a lot of head scratching and wasted time. Thank you for making these wonderful videos! I always look forward to them!
RadioRex72 Thank you for the kind words , Glad you got her all fixed up.
How likely would a brake hose get stuck and act like a check valve? If it ever did would it make any sense to just blow out the hose using compressed air and re-use? Thanks.
It happens a good bit . The inside comes apart , collapses and blocks the flow . Only way to fix is replace . Thanks for watching and commenting
RadioRex72 I have a front brake hanging up on our '95 Buick Riviera, it's overheated one of the rotors and caused it to warp more than it already was. I noticed that when I let off of the brake pedal after a stop that the brakes gradually release. I have a feeling it's a bad front brake hose but I'm going to check everything.....And he does explain things well, "I like the way he talks"! Lol, he kinda reminds me of the way Joe Namath sounds.....
great vid. my 2005 Malibu maxx had the same problem
The best and full detailed video for the beginners or professionals to do correct job
Thank you
Wow! I'd give this two thumbs up if I could! So far one of the most detailed and best explained videos on the subject I've seen. Thanks for taking time to share this!
some very useful tips, thanks...that gravity bleed is something I've never seen before so for me working on my car by myself most of the time that is very useful...
Thomas T Thanks for watching and commenting
Me Too, gravity bleed,..I am liking that !
Gravity bleeding is never a good idea. Especially if it has abs.
Changed the caliper. brakes were still sticking just on one side. I was pulling my hair out then found your video. it was the hose. thank you very much. problem solved
Glad it helped
I replaced the hose, caliper and master cylinder and front left is still sticking. Can't figure it out.
Thank You Thank You. Everyone who is not a car machanic, needs you as a best friend or a good neighbor at least.
Thank you glad it helped
defenely one of the best videos I have ever seen about calipers and brake lines ...awesome explanation
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've replaced everything but the hoses, lines, and expensive stuff and still dragging. Apparently this is fairly prevalent in Ford F150 in the 2002_2006 or so era. As is brake line rust. So here comes the penetrating oil and trip to the ijit auto parts place for hoses..... Thanks man, nice troubleshooting and video!!!
Best video ever I was glued to it till the end
The rotor guard will sometimes get hit by rocks and well sound like your break is dragging. I just bend it back a little bit and no more sound
Hi Guys. Old mechanic here, managed brake shops that got to remedy jobbers work that was no good. NEVER reuse a dodgy hose. The very first comment provided is gold.
Thanks for stopping in
I had same problem. Made same fix, still had same problem. On a hunch I pulled parking brake release....fixed it!! No my parking light indicator was NOT on. 2008 Silverado. It was barely barely engaged but apparently enough to grab the driver's side front wheel.
thanks..I am fighting a problem with fluid leaking out around the copper washers and hose/banjo bolt.I replaced the caliper since I saw a defect around where banjo bolt goes thru and also tride new washers with the new caliper and it still seeps,but less.Never had this before.Only option is to try a new banjo bolt and or a new hose.Fluid is not coming out of hose or it's pressed on fitting.
+newyota1 Would think it would seal with the copper ones , if every mating surface, on both sides of the washers looks good , clean and new washers, is there a crack someplace .
I’m still amazed at the banjo design and how 2 copper washers can stop brake fluid from leaking. If I was designing it I would have had a screw down fitting like on the other end of the hose has.
The banjo fitting is pretty strong and needs to be as wheel is always turning left and right . Thanks for stopping in and commenting
I recently replace a caliper on a 95 dodge b2500 van and was still having issues. Your video pointed out my mistake. I hate to admit it but I left off one of the copper washers on the banjo fitting... Thanks for the video,helped me fix my error. Now to bleed the entire system...
Easy to do , main thing is you figured it out
@@wtbm123 Right on buddy! Thanks! :)
I always like to see the dirty fluid going back into the bleed bottle in the first instance. Good work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Best brake caliper video instruction.
Glad you think so!
Thanks! Great video, and a natural teaching style!
This is helping me get my work truck back on the road!
I could watch you working on cars and talking about it all day!
Good video
Thank you greatly! I've been trying to figure out where I'm having problems for 2 days now. I haven't been able to find a single thing. Your video is the only thing that has helped me and you answered everything I needed to know. Thank you again!
Glad I could help!
Wilber that is a great way to bleed the brakes, I like it. I just greased the pins and it seems to have stopped the front left brake binding, if it sticks again I will replace the hose and caliper and use your method of bleeding the brakes.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting
Good info. I didn't know about diagnosing the brake lines and how that could make the brakes stick. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you, my old reliable Malibu 2006 got the same problem, I replaced both front hoses and problem solved, next I will replace the two rear hoses too just in case, after all they all are same age.
Thank you.
Sounds good
Thank you so much for this video. My front right caliper got stuck yesterday and happened before two years ago. Now I have some leads on where to start troubleshooting.
Glad it helped
Hey hey hey
I saw a dribble of brake fluid.
Thanks for bring us along on the repair. 😁😁😁😁
Thanks for watching and commenting
Good eye Ziggy . I saw it on the video too, The rotor is loose on there. I took it all apart and re lubed the slides, then realized the pads were wore on a taper. I think that may be doing it. Thanks for watching .
I was going to comment about the uneven slider pins movement also. And not to be a broken record if a bunch of people already said it . Then I saw this comment and apparently you caught it. I just ordered that permatex silicone brake lube. Its supposed to be good to 3000F. and wont swell the rubber boots on the sliders. I will find out after time. I did alot of research before I decided on that specific type. Hope I made a good choice.
I have a 2005 Ford E150. I cannot find the problem of my front brakes dragging heavily. So far, I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, and brake lines from the caliper to the connection on the body frame. I have not replaced the brake pads, as they are close to brand new. I also did not change the rotors, as they look pretty good. My ABS light does not go on, and the fuse is good. I have followed your utube and tried everything. Before the white coats come and get me, please help me if you can. Desperate Ron
If you have new calipers , we will assume it is good and the slides are free . thinking it has the slides in caliper . If slides are in caliper bracket then make sure they move in and out free. . You said brake pads look good . but do they slide freely . If they go into caliper bracket , make sure they slide around by hand . If attach to caliper then they will be fixed there and caliper would be the sliding part. . So make sure all the mechanical parts are in good working order . if so then see if holdin fluid pressure , by releasing bleeder . But a lot of tines dragging braks that one can still drive on is a slide stuck or pads stuck if they are the ones that float in caliper bracket .
I have just replaced the four brake callipers on my 1995 Rover 820 si with remanufactured ones, nice video I have enjoyed watching it.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Nice video. I have subscribed. The mechanic changed new master cylinder and bled but still have spongy brake sometimes, so I guess it is the caliper and maybe hose. Most of times I get spongy brake when making left U turn while slow driving. Any advice please?
Great Straight up Video Thanks Awesome Job nice and gravity bleed when you don't have a helper!
Thank you
If you're changing caliper and line can you attach the new line to the new caliper before installing new line?
You could , but to me it seams easier to attach hose to caliper at banjo fitting last .
I gravity bleed 90% of my brake hydraulics...Is that a floating rotor...?..looked like the top was pushing a little more than the bottom..Nicely sorted mate.
Great Job ! Never Would Believe The Brake Line Would Swell
THANKS this Vid Helped Me Diagnose My Issuse Which indeed was
The Brake Line !!! After removing the Brake Hose I blew compressed air
Through the new and the old Brake Hoss and the differance was Dramatic!
Night and Day !!! Was so fustrated because the hanging caliper seemed like the bearings
Where bad , but they were not bad ....spent 60+ bucks to learn that lesson
Additionally Becareful when disconnecting the hard brake line from the body
Mined needed 12hrs and some heat applied before i felt confident enough that I would not
Break that hard line while disconnecting the flexible brake hose
GOOD LUCK all and THE LORD BLESS YOU
#JesusIsTheAnswer
Ps thats 12hrs for the penetrating fluid to work :)
Glad you got it figured out , thanks for watching and commenting
This is really helpful,, it was my hose,,,good on ya bro for doing passing the knolage,,, ,i have a feeling there will be a seat in Valhalla reserved for you,,🍀
Thanks for watching and commenting
Your video is excellent, your explanation and tips are outstanding, great communicator, good use of vocabulary!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for posting, I am getting ready to replace the brake lines and 're-work my caliper' ~ this video is helpful ~
I suspect the brake line, but (have all of the parts) to proceed further if needed.
Thanks for stopping by
The accent somehow makes him more credible
lol
If you undo the bleeder screw and it squirts out then it would be the brake hose it's not letting the fluid out
Thanks for this video! It gave me the little details needed to successful complete my brake repair on my 2011 jeep patriot!
Glad it helped!
Had the hose /acting as a check valve issue before.Of course I thought it was the caliper like you said until hours of frustration and two calipers.Long before you tube could help me.
+newyota1 Thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you sir!!! This is probably the best informational video I've seen on here don't skip steps and you take the time to describe what you're doing..
One question what is gravity bleeding and how do I do it? Does car have to be running? I'm guessing with cylinder cap off not running
Gravity bleed i loosen master cylinder cap . then open bleeder and let fluid run . just do not let master cylinder run out of brake fluid. no need to start car.
Nice job clear and straight away in your presentation
+Manny Vilar Thank you
Very good video. You are the man of brakes.
awesome video and a lot of very important details comes from a pro tech and deserve thump up from me and add % 100 on top of it ,thank you very much master tech.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video; thanks for sharing! I just replaced both front brake calipers/brackets on my son's 2007 Toyota Corolla and was able to verify the left caliper was in fact the culprit in this case.
Glad it helped!
Ive got a heat issue on both front rims and one rear. since its more than one wheel, could it be the ABS or just air in the line? I did take fuses out of ABS system but its still hot.
Prob not the abs unit . Only way to know for sure is to look and diagnose them . Could be calipers , caliper slides , pads not moving free , brake hose , Would need to see if something was not moving free , or if fluid pressure is not releasing , Could be abs unit , but many other things go wrong first
Great video. Instructions were clear and thorough
Great video. Helped me trouble shoot bad hose.
Thanks for watching and commenting
How do you know the problem is in that hose and not somewhere upstream in the brake line?
By doing the same where the hard line connects to the rubber line
I bled the hole system and my pads are sticking to rotor, what would it be? The piston doesn't retract like 2 or 3 mm but when i push it, it retrack very easily. Whats the problem?
Are the caliper slides free , depending on the vehicle could the pads be stuck in the caliper bracket , If you push the brake pedal and release it will not move far , but just far enough for the rotor to turn fairly freely .
@@wtbm123 yes they are, I cleaned it and and put grease. The pad thickness could afect? They aren't original, im using Kashima.
great step by step visual video. I rely on these a lot. I do have a problem I can't find. 93 bronco. and BOTH front wheel hubs / lug nuts are so hot after driving short in town that you can't touch them. To fix I have replaced (on both sides) : pads, rotors, calipers, rubber brake hose from caliper and master cylinder. since the lug nuts are hot from smelly hot brakes on BOTH sids, I believe it has to be up at master cylinder. Could it be the metal brake lines ? Could it be the metal valve conection point at mastercylinder? I did not replace that nor did i replace the metal brake lines.
This is driving me nuts. I have put 700 miles on the new pads/rotors calipers... still getting too hot like brakes are dragging.. any ideas?
adding and truck brakes straight and good. everyting seems fine except too much heat up there.
Jack it up and see if brake is dragging , also is it hot from brakes or wheel bearing , if center is hotter than caliper or rotor then check bearings
Excellent instruction...Simple, clear and easy to understand.
Thank You
Thank you for making this video but I follow all steps and was trying to stop at a red light after doing about 45 and the brakes went out and i smashed into a mini van. Any ideas?
Something may not of been done right , leaking or something , may get a mechanic to look and see what went wrong
Did you test your brakes first?
You contaminated your brake pads with brake fluid most likely
Great video! I have the same issue with my Ford Edge. Parts are on order and I'll be changing them out tomorrow.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Had this on my f150 as I was doing min restoration on my 2011 . Glen auto parts manager told me to take both front hoses he was right both were causing the callipers to stick on
Thanks for stopping by and commenting
Very good video, sir. Answered questions that a few others didn't!
Thank you for watching and commenting
After replacing my rear end spider gears i put everything back the way it was, but when i got to bleeding the brakes only my front brakes would get fluid coming out, but not my back ones, my brake pedal wouldnt get hard, its loose because the back brakes aren't getting fluid through, what do you think the problem might be? Some people told me it wasn't the master cylinder because my front brakes were getting fluid so it is working.
Assuming all air is out. You could try with brake pedal pushed loosen a few fittings and see where the pressure stops make sure some pressure is at the rear line coming out of master cylinder Then work down the line or if easy try loosening the rear brake line going in to the rubber hose in the rear . Also if you had the rear line off and bleed a lot trying to fix the rears , then keep in mind that a lot of brake pumping can suds fluid and make it hard to get air out . If pushing the pedal ,i push once or no more than twice slowly then open bleeder . You are moving fluid not building a pedal it will come with moving fluid in and air out.
of course it was just another few bolts to fix the real issue thanks for the info
Thanks for stopping by
On the right rear wheel I can still spin it after he has his foot on the pedal all the way to the floor. I couldn't separate the caliber from the rotor by pulling back with a screwdriver. I noticed the bottom sliding pin needed greased and it had a small crack in the rubber. I figure that's where the problem originated. I noticed on your video when you went to hit the brakes the bottom pin was not moving just the top one was. Seem like to me that it was still sticking.
If the e brake cable attaches to the rear caliper , the piston has to be rotated in . If e brake is not directly attached to caliper it should just push in . Also newer cars need to be put into service mode to do the rear calipers . Yes you are correct both slides should move freely
Can you gravity bleed without the tube?
yes
Great video, very well explained, too bad no one in the comments knows how drum brakes work, ah well they are relics now a days to the domestic industry
Thanks for the kind words . Thanks for watching and commenting.
If you suspect a brake line causing the caliper to drag just pump up the brakes and verify the brake is still dragging then crack the bleeded open. If fluid squirts out then there is still pressure in the system. Then also see if the caliper freed up. Not sure how much of a squirt is too much? Compare to the other side, as long as the other side is not hanging up also.
Thanks for watching
I had both front rubber brake lines collapse on my 95 dodge neon. I went through a brake rotor and 2 sets of pads before I figured it out because I'd never heard of the line doing that.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Text my brakes marotta McCaleb and my brake lines on one side I replace one brake line two years ago for having the same problem when I run the car or truck for an hour that's the side that I just replace the line and it's grabbing its this is grabbing my brakes my brakes start smoking a Dodge Dakota 1999 pickup I need help finding the problem everything is been changed on the front
hellcat1988 you’re first problem was that you bought a dodge
I have the same problem with a cadillac allante 1988, I replaced the caliper ,twice and two new pads and still problem with a stuck caliper. But I think you are right about the hose, I'll replace the hose. Thanks
Hope that fixes it for you and thanks for commenting
Great video helped me sort my motorcycle brakes. Thanks.
To anneal copper crush gaskets.
You heat copper with a gas torch to cherry red then quench in water.
I had a stuck piston on a Kai Truck left front piston was seized up.
I ended up using the grease gun trick to remove the piston for cleanup.
If it has a cap use the cap . of not use the revivor. you may need to drain a little coolant out
so what does it mean if 3 of 4 brakes ares ticking? 2 front disk rotors were 50 deg c after an hour drive and one rear drum was pretty warm too.
i just changed the front pads last fall but rear shoes need to be done now too?
A lot of things can cause it . rubber hoses , stuck calipers , Pads stuck not moving , Caliper slide not moving . Drum could be stuck parking brake comes to mind first . Hope you get it all sorted out
@@wtbm123 i just went and installed some raybestos drag reduction clips between my brake pads and i can clearly see they are rubbing, theres a square hole where i can see the resting state of the pads is touching. Especially on the side of the piston, the other side mightve had a 0.25 mm space .
Maybe my replacement pads were just a hair too thick, maybe i just need to agressively brake with it every time i drive it and wear them out a bit.
Maybe i will just end up replacing both calipers and/or both rotors sometime soon.
It appears to a Ford, however I didn't notice the rust usually associated
I too noticed that the top of the caliper was moving more than the bottom... I wonder if the bottom caliper pin might have had some rust in it, or not enough lubrication, and was sticking a bit?
I noticed that too. I thought that looked odd. Also, it was recommended that brake grease be used to lub slides. That is not recommended because the boots on the slides are a rubber product and brake grease a petroleum product will dissolve rubber over time. Only high temperature silicone based grease is recommended for caliper slide bolts. Silicone will not dissolve rubber boots.
+Ken In Atlanta I guess i did not know they made non silicone brake grease . Not sure why it looked that way , watching vid i agree it looked like one was moving more than the other , but both were cleaned and lubed , but it does look odd .
+wtbm123 Thanks for the followup. I should have started by saying that I always wondered how a hose could act as a check valve. You did an outstanding job showing how that could occure. I live in the south and the under side of cars down here look almost brand new so I'm going to suspect slides and calipers first before brake hoses for sticking caliper diagnosis. Here are two silicone products that work with caliper slides. 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste and Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE
+Ken In Atlanta Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme ,or , Permatex - Ultra Disc Brake Caliper LubePart # 24110 , are the two that i use
Silicone breaks down in cold Weather. I thought it was anti seize that was suppose to be used.
Hi, instead replacing with new caliper, can you repair the old one which is sticking.. Thanks for the video
Yes you can, If the inside is not pitted you can rebuild a caliper. But finding a rebuild kit is not easy anymore,and lots of times a kit and piston is as much or more than a rebuilt one. For me i can replace most customers calipers for them cheaper than buying a kit and spending the time to rebuild .Thanks for watching and commenting.
yes clean the piston replace new seal
Also, don't overlook the caliper pins, because if they don't have enough lubrication, that alone can cause the caliper to stick. Remove the pins, inspect them, remove any rust, and coat them with brake caliper grease-then reinsert, and see if that solves the sticking problem.
Learn something new everyday, thanks for posting this.
Thank you
Awesome information and saved me a lot of grief low and behold it was the the hose great video the clamp on the control arm had rusted up and restricting the flow all good.
Thank You
Thanks for watching and commenting , Glad it helped
I've got a 2000 Olds Alero with sticking caliper(s), I think its the front passenger side as when you hit the brakes it kind of pulls that way a little bit. I don't drive the car too often, it sat about a month and ahalf and when I went to drive it it felt like the brakes were dragging...severely. I truely believe its rust/corrosion but will check those lines out too.
Thanks!
Randy Herrel Slide pins may be the issue if sits alot . The side it is pulling to , is probably working better than the other side . I am sure you will figure it out when you look in there . Thanks for watching and commenting
wtbm123 Actually, both sides the wheels were "hot". I think both sides are sticking just the psngr side more so. Will be tearing into it later today.
Thanks for posting stuff like this on UA-cam, its a great help to all of us out here! This is the 1st time I have ever utilized UA-cam as a tool to help me fix something. I can tell ya...it won't be the last!
Thanks for the video...I just bought a 91 oldsmobile station wagon and the front brakes were not working at all..I put on a set of new caipers and pads..plenty of brakes now but the driver side was sticking and causing the car to pull to that side...also it would stop sticking sometimes but then it didn't work at all because when braking the right would pull and I had to turn the steering wheel to the left to keep the car on the road..I exchanged the driver side caliper for another because I thought it was defective but the newest one is doing the same..with the wheel off if I hit the brakes it gets tight and will not release until I open the bleed valve a little..then it spins free..the rubber line is new looking but I took it off and I could shoot air through it in both directions...my ABS light is not on but I wonder if it could be a problem?I might try and bypass it because that thing looks expensive!...I don't think the master cylinder is bad because the other front wheel is working good..could it be that I don't have the system bled good enough?...I am by myself and have to wait for my neighbor to pump the brakes for me..if you have a minute maybe you might think of something I didn't..thanks
You say it sticks until you loosen bleeder . . Next just to be sure do it again and loosen the metal line going in to the hose , on master cylinder side , if the caliper releases then hose is good , if not bad , if releases then keep going and loosening fittings till you find where it releases . it may act different with fluid pressure on it than with just air . I would not think air in system would stop caliper from releasing. A lot of times if top is off master cylinder and you loosen a bleeder it will gravity bleed on its own . that is how i do a lot of them .
I will try that in the morning..thanks
When you were pressing on the brakes, was that bleeder open or closed because from my understanding its supposed to be closed, right? I think I just missed it?
2013 Kia Sorento EX brake pads crumbling up breaking apart metal backing plate came off of the inside pad and when open caliber to check the Piston already is retracted am I looking at a blocked brake hose?
Could be , but only way to know is to do some test and see what is going on .
What exactly did you do to “readjust the brake” after the test drive, because the pedal still felt low?
Bleed the brakes if it feels low. Air is in the system if the pedal sinks. You should feel pressure when you press the pedal down
if rear drum brakes adjust them
@@wtbm123 they were disk
Did you pump the brakes to get the bubbles out our let it freely come out .
I am not a fan of pumping to bleed , if it will not gravity bleed i use a vacuum bleeder . can get those pretty cheap.
Could also be metering valve,,,by loosening bleed screw you relieved pressure and eliminated caliper as the problem,,
And the hose,,,, the pressure should have relieved at master cylinder my friend.
Yes loosening bleed screw checks caliper
Yes if hose is restricting , it will hold pressure all the way back to master cyl. , But if loosen hose from hard line and pressure goes away , the hose was the issue
@@wtbm123 many don't realize there is a RESIDUAL VALVE in many master cylinders and proportioning valves set at 2 lbs for disc brakes and 10 lbs for drum and it dosent take much to clog up the tiny orifices causing pressure to increase and hold brakes on.
Great explanation, and video work. Will use it to help me fix a stuck caliper tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to do stuff like this, subscribed.
Caleb Hewlin Thank you
Hi its Ron again. Totally confused. I tried your suggestions, however, I’m confused as to-weather the stainless clip is inst. properly. The clips are a different length. Can you tell me which clip goes on left side of the bracket or the right? I would like to try and send you photos.
Thanks-I just got a new banjo bolt to install.Hope that fixes it.If not last thing is hose.Really can't see anything wrong there though.Problem is very small.
I've replaced my passenger calipers 2 times in 5 months and they recently started getting really hot and you could smell it burning so I'm guessing the brake hose is the problem.
Could be , Thanks for watching and commenting
I got this piston not going back in so did new pins push the piston in and out ok so rubber lines must be blocked so new braided lines and new fluid all done
Any thoughts here? when I brake I pull hard to the right. Replaced both calipers and rotors in the front on a RWD truck. I'm stumped!!!!
is there fluid pressure at both front wheels . Sometimes a back one not working can also make one pull . If pulling hard right then i would assume the left one is not working . Is the flex line bad . Do the brakes pump up after moving truck , could it be a wheel bearing loose and pushing the left caliper back . I would make sure the brakes on left has about the same fluid pressure as the right .
So rather than clean out the piston and replace the bushings for a few bucks you go to the expense of a whole new caliper? Curious as to why?
If you are working in a shop . and find a bad , or not working properly caliper , It is usually faster and cheaper in the long run for a customer , than paying a guy to spend the time needed to properly rebuild a caliper . Some calipers are easy and fast , but some get time spent tearing it apart and cleaning . Then if the caliper for some reason is not rebuildable , then customer would have to pay for that time , and new parts .And at least our local parts stores stock calipers, where here you usually need to order rebuild kits and that takes a extra day usually. If only slides are stuck , then i usually fix those because they usually go smooth , with out finding any hidden problems .
My front driverside rotor runs hotter than the passengerside + i have a light brakeshudder when braking at speeds above ca 30 mph. Both rotor and pads both sides changed (ATE brand) a year ago.
Brakehose looks good. Opening the bleedervalve I can by hand easily press the pistons back in, as the brakefluid passes through the valve. Likewise, with the caliper closed I can pump the brakes and still easily pry the caliper open with a flatheaded screwdriver or even just moving the caliper on the glidepins by hand. The pads were not exactly moving smoothly in the brake hardware, so i wired the hardware down and filed the pads to fit nice and loose. Still didn't solve the problem...
Glidepins are gliding nicely, but they are slightly rusted.
At this point, I'm thinking the caliper's not the issue, nor is the pads or the hose. What's left? Master cylinder, glidepins and rotor.. But the rotor is only a year old.. Been scratching my head for a while now, help much much appreciated!
If sure all moves free and well . If you drive a short distance trying not to use any brake does it get hot then . or is it when using the brakes alot . If the latter check to see if the cooler side is working . If calipers are back . up on jack stands . Hit the brakes a few times then turn tires to see if either is dragging .
@@wtbm123 Yeah, driving about 15km without using the brakes at all, nearly rolling to a stop = driver side too hot to keep my fingers on the rotor for more than a split second, while the passenger side is almost cool to the touch.
Just got a new pair of glidepins, new brake hardware and new pads. Figured I'm gonna try and change the hardware first, second glidepins and then the pads to see if any one thing will fix the issue. If I still get the slightly hotter rotor on the driver side (also a little bit of a brake pulsation), I'll get a new rotor, thinking that this one might have warped slightly due to the heat.
Yesterday I changed the hardware on the overheating side, drove the 15kms and that side was cooler than the passengerside! The car rollent noticeably better. Here's the kicker; today the driverside rotor is back to being way hot while the passengerside is cool to the touch. Interesting this ..
@@apekatteriskogen did you figure it out in the end?
@@handleby I got it to work okay-ish, but the problem came and went until I changed the front calipers this spring! Now the car rolls noticeably better, and consumption is down by about 10% 😆
So It could be my hose? I changed 2 calbers, and its still sticking. sometimes the brakes vibrate, and pretend its not gonna stop.
We replaced the caliper and hose on a 99 S10 Blazer and the new caliper is still sticking. Scratching our head on this one. Also ABS light came on.
Open bleeder and see if there is fluid pressure staying on caliper . Make sure caliper slides on slides . And make sure pads slide and not stuck in place . if you have to tap the pads in to place they are to tight
@@wtbm123 Thanks for the reply. We figured out the caliper that O`Reilly`s sold us was junk. Picked up a different one and everything is good now.
Take cap off master cylinder. Pull with screwdriver. If it does not move, loosed bleeder. Pull again. If moves freely with bleeder open, probably brake hose deteriorated. Put cap back on master cylinder. Is that about it? I changed my pads and rotors after the driver's side was grounding and my pads fell out when I was driving. I did not loosed the banjo bolt because I did not expect to replace my caliper. Not only would my caliper not compress, the metal cylinder in the piston was partially ground away. The calipers were only about a year or 2 old. I would have changed the hose "just in case" but I was too exhausted. I am about 6 weeks past and my brakes seem to be making noise. I am about to take off my wheel and see what I can figure out.
yes , check like that to see if caliper or hose is bad . if the pads fell out and piston on caliper was hitting rotor , may be a good idea to replace that caliper , especially if it will not push back . if it wore piston in caliper and no longer flat and square to rotor , you will probably have issues with caliper anyhow as it would want to cock the piston to the side and maybe bind up.
I have 1990 Corvette all the brakes were working as they should. I changed pads on all four wheels. Now the front passenger side sticks. I replaced the caliper and the rubber line. Still sticking. ?????????HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10:15 adjusted back brakes when peddle felt low. How?
on some there is a rubber plug to remove , then a star wheel in side to turn
@@wtbm123, when I c clamp squeeze one of the two pistons in (a), the other (b) is pushed out. When I c clamp (b) this easy one that pushed out, and squeeze it in then the other piston (a) doesn't push out--so the oil goes back out to the line, I guess. So that's the stuck one (a)? Or is that normal dual piston operation?
question, I've got a 95 gmc k1500 that's had a drag on my left driver tire for along time now. I've replaced the hose 3x, the caliper 3x, rotor 2x, the cv axles 1x, master cylinder 3x, brake booster 2x and the hub assembly 2x. I'm out of ideas on what to do next. but I know its the caliper sticking because it'll spin freely with out the caliper on it. any advice would be appreciated.
If nothing mechanical at the wheel is bad , like stuck slides , then next thought something is holding line pressure. If dragging brake , and loosen bleeder and then free , it is fluid pressure. . can go back up line and loosen fittings till you see where the restriction is . Also if it has the abs control under in the engine compartment , they sometimes go bad .
wut if replaced everything but still freezing up? is possible hardline also can cause to freeze?...that rubber connects too
When you opened the bleeder screw to test for caliper movement, did that introduce air into the system, that would require a gravity bleed, or did you only gravity bleed them because you had to replace the hose? Please answer this morning if at all possible, as I'm working on a friend's brakes today, and want to have her car back to her tonight if I can, with nice firm (and non-dragging) brakes!! And thanks a lot for the excellent video, it's EXTREMELY helpful. Gonna find out in a few hours whether it's just the dried out slider pins (causing the brakes to drag), or the hose is bad also... Thanks again!!
Just opening a bleeder ,usually will not let air in ,if you do not move brake peddle..even pushing piston back with bleeder loose will push fluid out ,not letting air in. Now if you some how manually pulled the piston out on a caliper with bleeder open it will suck air in but not if pushing piston in . or if bleeding by peddle and peddle is let up with bleeder open it will suck air in. I gravity bleed because of replacing parts. Most cars you can change a hose or caliper and let gravity bleed to remove air. Just gravity bleeding will usually get all air out. Also you prob already know but should only use a made for brake grease on slide pins.
@@wtbm123 So Best way to bleed is to just open bleeder with filler cap off and let flow doing nothing else for a minute or two ?
Very helpful and well made. Thank you!
+Rockuhill Thanks