This kind of thing is EXACTLY what I want out of a tutorial video - not step by step instructions on how to do a specific item/garment/whatever, but a guide to how to think about a project.
One of the things I appreciate most about this channel is that you know yourself well enough to know you can't\don't want to make a tutorial but still want to be helpful to people who might be struggling! I know that I am going to make use of your spreadsheet and try my hand at making a dress!!
What I appreciate about your tutorial videos (and I would argue that you're still doing them....at least for my definition of tutorial) is that you're helping me to work out how to do stuff MY way. This is very necessary because my shape only fits extremely loose standard patterns or high street fashion
Longtime basic costumer for medieval recreation, working almost exclusively with woven fabrics. Long sleeves in woven fabric need underarm gussets to provide bias stretch and prevent tearing out your armpits. It's a little tricky to understand, but once you do it, it makes sense. Here's the most basic method: Make your dress with a right angle armpit where the sleeve meets the side seam. Cut out a square of fabric about 4" x 4". Fold it in half diagonally. With your dress laid flat on your cutting surface, lay the folded gusset into the armpit so it fills in that 90 degree angle. This should look kind of like it's turning the sleeve into a mini dolman. Pin the points in place to the dress. Sew the sides of the gusset square to the edges of the sleeve seam and side seam. Then sew the sleeve seam from the point of the gusset down to the cuff/hem. Sew the side seam the same way. This works because woven fabric has some stretch on the bias. It can handle the stresses of being pulled by a raised arm where the 90 degree angle ends up tearing the fabric. I hope this makes sense. It's hard to describe without pics.
I get it! it also helps to prevent a huge bulky wedge rising above your shoulder when raising the arm. I've always had trouble with sleeves either not being long enough or feeling like my shoulders are going to hulk out when I extend my arms, esp because I prefer woven fabrics.
I just wanna say ... As someone who often uses CC on videos, I like the Easter Eggs and some phrases used to describe sounds, and stuff. Always gets a chuckle from me. didn't know the potato fact... learn something new every day. ♥
Oh darn my forgetful ADHD brain! I've used the CC for a few videos after seeing comments about them being great, but I forgot to put them on for this one. Now I feel like I missed out on stuff lol
OH. It's a shift pattern! I do some historical sewing and this is basically exactly what a medieval shift is, without the gores (gores let you use narrower pieces of fabric, as historically fabric was only about half as wide as modern bolts). That makes it make so much sense in my head!
For anyone looking to do paper pattern drafting with a shape similar to the blue & white ones, I recommend The Closet Historian's videos on her all in one sleeve bodice block! She's done so many different style variations with it.
Her guides are great generally, and I made a fitted 'bodice block' / sloper for myself following her guides. Not sure if using the term 'bodice' is technically correct for a man.
@@robehickmann When I took pattern drafting in college we still called it a "basic bodice" or "basic block" regardless of gender, and the dart placement was more or less the same, just different sizes!
@@vincentbriggs1780 Thank you, that makes sense and I was surprised that in making this I needed to add some slight 'bust' darts to fix arm hole gaping.
0:59 am I really the only one who likes watching her bc i enjoy her “process” and her process inspires more of my own? Its like watching a professional artist painting in a park i be like “oh! I never thought of it that way! Interesting!”
Same here, her process and personality is fun to watch. Most of what she is making isn't something I'd replicate directly, but the process and principles apply to a larger scope.
Great video. Longtime viewer. Constructive feedback incoming: sometimes your comments in the air that appear as you talk disappear too fast to read. I’m a native speaker so that’s not the issue. The issue is that first, the viewer has to notice that text has appeared, and then read while you’re talking, so the text needs (for me) to be on there a few seconds longer, although after writing this a bunch of your air writing was on plenty long. So it’s only occasionally a thing ❤❤❤❤❤❤ With all my love and gratitude for your amazing work❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for that feedback! Timing can be really hard to tell during editing, since I already know the words I've written, and therefore can read them much faster, so I'll take note of that more closely in the future!
@gettheetothestitchery For me is rare enough to miss something that I don't mind rewinding a few seconds. 😊 At least you don't post up a huge block of text, which I'd need to pause, without giving me enough time to realize it and hit pause. 😂
This is a WONDERFUL comparison of style elements for dress design. With everything arrayed into a spread sheet, the viewer is able to see everything at once and picking element by element while progressing down the dress. In my opinion, this was the easiest to understand and most effective for evaluating options; SO GOOD!!
You are not the only one to think so. I work in a place full of absolute nerds. I recently found out that there is an Excel club at lunch times. I kid you not.
Another sleeve option: the top seams can be gathered/cinched down over the shoulders for a different take on the sleeveless option. It’s definitely a more Grecian take on the dress and I recommend a drapey fabric for this application. In fact, Ancient Greek dresses are basically caftans and Fantastical Follies and Daisy Victoria both have some great videos about them. Something that I do on my tops and dresses with open necklines that fall off my shoulders: I usually sew a ribbon and a snap into each shoulder to loop around my bra straps.
I remember when I was being fitted for my wedding outfit they did those loops and my grandmother said that back in the day even ready-made clothing had them. I felt super young because I had never come across them before. Simple and brilliant
@@dawnmoriarty9347 I remember being a bridesmaid as a kid (long before I'd need a bra) and despite my dress having sleeves compared to the sleeveless of the older ladies (my mum and aunts), I felt very sad that the staff in the store quite bluntly told me that they wouldn't be putting them in my dress. It wouldn't have taken much to just tell me they would at the fitting and then when my dress was made without them just say someone forgot to add them and pretend that they'd tell someone off later. But oh well lol
There is nothing to stop a person from cutting either the front or back in two pieces with an inch or so extra on the center seam, and adding either a zipper or fasteners (buttons, snaps, hooks) , either full length, or more usually partway (waist or hip). This makes life much easier for people like me who have limited arm or shoulder mobility. I strongly second the recommendation for armpit gussets, too.
I think what you need in a woven fabric is a soft hand. No stiff fabrics, but you could use velvet, especially silk velvet, or linen that is softened. Cotton is usually too stiff for this kind of style, but lightweight wool is very Viking. This is a Medieval, Greek, or a Viking kind of design, you know! I love your spreadsheets, girl--NERD OUT! :D
I'd use cotton myself but I use Poplins and quilting cottons almost exclusively. But it lends itself to more structure if you're using the heavier fabrics. So shorter sleeves and one of the more structured skirt styles that doesn't rely on the drape for the look.
I was thinking that this is the perfect dress to make from bedsheets. They're woven cotton, but usually pretty soft and drape-y. A large pattern/print isn't a problem with this type of dress. You got plenty enough material for a maxi dress, as well. I live near an IKEA and I go there regularly to rummage through the boxes of discounted fabric items. It's great material for simple summer dresses.
I love that your videos are "research style" and explorative. This is exactly how new ideas are found, and I love the idea of the spreadsheet too! When you understand the fundamentals of how something works, it's amazing to see what can be created by changing the variables. All of that to say: thanks for your videos and teaching how to be an explorer of fabrics!
Seconding the suggestions for underarm gussets! Shoving a square in that seam can make such a big difference in fit! My shirts are made entirely of rectangles and the underarm gusset adds so much more room and comfort there. (I also have one in the crotch seam of my Victorian inspired swimsuit. Very necessary to the fit, since the front and back are both cut in one piece without centre front/back seams.)
35:54 you can add vertical drawstrings to the center sides of the middle opening at bust, then you draw tighter with a vertical and a horizontal drawstring in each hand to create a heart-shaped effect
This was such a fantastic way to do this! It’s teaching a man to fish instead of giving him to fish. I love being able to learn the theory like this that can then be applied to multiple projects. Definitely keep up videos like this! 😊
Watching your videos over the years, gave me so much confidence in my sewing journey. Recently I made myself a pleated skirt based on your 'pleats experimentation' and it turned out awsome. Thank you 😘
I love this kind of "reference" content. I'm probably going to rewatch this video about as many times as I would a tutorial. This has a similar feel to the embroidery stitch videos I found you with years ago, while not being a straight up tutorial.... a pick your own adventure if you will 😅
*ehem*.......YOU INSPIRED ME TO SELF DRAFT MY ENTIRE HALLOWEEN COSTUME THIS YEAR! It went pretty well, though I still haven't finished all the planned element garments. (Maybe by Christmas.) I EVEN MADE SHOES WITH LEATHER SOLES!!!! (Finished-ish the evening of Halloween . After spending Halloween in costume without the custom shoes. Still need to make the insoles, and fix the right shoe. It was the first one I finished and wasn't assembled properly.) So, thanks! I've still got a crinoline/tutu to self draft and sew (last element), but I know my sewing machine and iron much better now than I did before. Mostly do to your influence. YAY!
Best tutorial ever. Now I know that sleeves aren't scary! They don't even have to exist! This makes making tops way less scary to me! yay! Spreadsheets rock. Also I learned a new word. Gunkus. Love it. XD
A type of pocket that I want to do on a project, but I have to make time for me projects... I call it a Mary Poppins Pocket. On the outside there is a very small but cute patch. Like a unicorn. but when you put your hand in, it leads through a slit into a very large internal pouch. Which is going to have to be anchored at the waist.
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 All pockets should be the size of the 18th century pocket. I just want to see the look of shock when I go to grab my keys from a 2 in. x 3 in. patch and my arm disappears to my elbow.
So pleased to find someone who loves to make spreadsheets and such! Making forms to collect needed info was a specialty of mine when I directed a non-profit...... It's crazy that your mind seems to work in the same wonky ways that mine does! Love watching your videos. Keep being yourself!
Another option for cinching that was on a dress I had when I was younger. The dress had button holes stitched through both the front and back and a small belt went across the back, through the button holes and tied in the front. For the raglan/peasant style, the easiest way to do a V neckline is to gather the neckline and attach it to a non gathered (shaped) facing. This can let you do lots of other styles of neckline as well. This would also make it easier to do a butterfly sleeve as well.
That sounds like the adjustable waistband in kids' pants. They basically run an elastic that is split into buttonholes every half inch from the front left hip, around the back, to the front right hip. At the created size, it fits beautifully. If the kid has a narrower waist, you can pull the elastic tab however tightly you need it. The waistband basically gathers around that tighter elastic, leaving a flat front and gathered rear. If you're lucky, your kid grows width-wise enough to let it out a couple times before they shoot up another 2-3 inches and the pants become capris. 😂 I think they need to be in any pants for women, too!
This is with no exaggeration whatsoever, infinity times more useful to people like me than a typical tutorial. And for the record as well, people like you and Rachel Maksy for example may not explicitly make "tutorials" but for the people who learn by making mistakes, watching the PROCESS of how someone creates something, how they handle problems and fix them, what they do when they get bored or don't like something but find a way to switch it up, creating imperfect pieces--- THAT is a tutorial for those people. (Me Lol) If I can't come away from a tutorial knowing fundamentals about how to fix it when I inevitably make a stupid mistake then I'm going to get frustrated and might give up before I even finish a project. A normal tutorial tends to move forward as though you've followed along every step of the way without screwing something up or getting frustrated, it shows how to make something if you do it perfectly and I'm just too chaotic for that to be of much help for me. But this? This is a work of tutorial ART. I've never seen a video that really gets my brain the way this one does. Many many thanks 🙏🙏🙏🙏 10/10
I think this video really is a tutorial. What's more, for me this type of tutorial is perfect. All those options are what I need. And as others mentioned, you do need gussets for long sleeves, if you are using woven fabric. I actually prefer adding a gusset, for me it feels nicer than a set in sleeve.
Ooooh..thanks Charlie!!! This is soo well organized! I hv various spreadsheets, charts, colour-coded, sorted in various methods only I can decipher…and sometimes even I can’t after a long gap!! Requesting u to make a video on the different types of shapes one has to cut out for various parts of a garment…at least a basis to sorta start out with! Pls pretty pls!!
I don't know what one would call this learning style of seeking to fully understand the logic behind something so that one can mentally project all of the possible outcomes, but it is how my brain works. Its working at the level of concepts / processes instead of the products of said processes. For some reason my mind rejects anything that isn't understood conceptually first - to accept using a pattern, I'd need to know how to make that pattern from nothing, or my brain just says 'nope'.
I went to ghana and bought a dress, its a single piece of rectangular fabric with a hole for a neck, and sewed up the two sides with absolutely no shaping. I adore this dress and I've thought about trying to make another one for something like 15 years.
I make a lot of African - inspired caftans since I bought several in Kenya 20 years ago. They are the best thing for summer ever. You’re wearing your own shade, so you don’t need as much sunscreen, and the wind blows right through from one sleeve to the other, so you cool off. I use cotton or linen and so far I use a rectangle fabric shape. Next time I want a kaftan to be really long and really wide, I’m going to curve the side hem edges up so that when I put my arms down, the corner hem doesn’t drag on the floor. Last time I hemmed it higher/straight across so that if I put my arms down, it wouldn’t drag. That made the center shorter than I wanted it. Right now I want to make a dolman of soft canvas that is more narrow in the body than my big caftans. I want long sleeves for winter. The problem with long sleeves and Dolman shapes is that if the back is too fitted, you can’t reach your arms forward without pulling on the back Fabric. It definitely doesn’t work to have the same shape/size back piece as the front piece when the garment is fitted more closely to the body. I have decided I will try a pair of pleats on the back shoulders (like some traditional shirts do) and I’m going to slant the shoulders down a bit so that the Dolman sleeves are on a slight bias instead of straight on the grain. We’ll see how that works. I’m working on a writing deadline right now but when I’m done with that next week, I’m gonna try the concept dress. Years ago I made a pattern by tracing a purchased African dress. It had the same shaped pattern piece front and back, except for neckline. I now have five of those dresses, but none of them have long sleeves. Nothing like a new adventure!
THIS IS AMAZING! I’ve always wanted to try self drafting but I’m new at sewing and trying to decide what to do and when to do it without instructions or a pattern can be…intimidating. This is basically a choose-your-own-adventure, but for a freakin DRESS! I LOVE IT!!!!
All hail the spreadsheet! 😍 Oh, the joy of a well laid out spreadsheet. Thank you for a great breakdown Charlie! I have a fun top in low stretch fabric that has one inset sleeve and one raglan sleeve and an asymetrical neckline. Love it though it is too small at the moment. Keeping it for the great construction though. I'm more used to seeing raglan sleeves set in an ungathered neckline but the gathered gives you much more wiggleroom both in movement and precision of patterning.
Raglan sleeves are great! Classy diagonal lines; full range of movement; and when the edges are cut straight instead of curved, they build a square neckline for you! Another fun 'easy sleeve' is a flutter sleeve (a variant of the butterfly sleeve), since that's just a semi-circle attached along the top of the arm hole. Or a full circle with a slit cut to the centre and that slit then opened across the top of the armhole, but I find the drape of that style tends to 'clump' in the middle, while a semi-circle flutters more evenly. I have 100% made lists of different necklines, sleeve types/lengths, waist heights, and skirt styles, and rolled dice to Randomly Generate dress ideas when I've been drawing and had art block. For a while I also had a list of poses and a D20, since decided what pose to draw a figure in took up so much time.
Watching your drawing at the beginning, showing the basic idea of your dress, reminds me of the 1920’s 1 hour dress. It was my first go at sewing “without a pattern”.
I love your spreadsheets! I am also a person who does not vibe with patterns, for the most part. I am mostly a complete rogue when it comes to sewing garments. I starts with only the vaguest idea of what category of garment I want to end up with, pick my fabric and start sewing. Sometimes it's a good idea to go in with a bit more of a plan, though, and the way you laid it out here is very cogent! Weirdly set-in sleeves were the first thing I self-drafted, mostly out of naive hubris, but they worked out fine, so 🤷 P.S. Thank you for introducing me to the Seraflex and Eloflex threads! I exclusively sew either by hand or with an antique chainstitch machine, which has made me generally avoid stretch material. While it certainly provides less stretch than a zigzag or other moderns stitches might, it is enough for me right now!
It's the intersection of two of my special interests (spreadsheets and dressmaking) presented by two of my favourite UA-camrs (Charlie and Puppy)!! I have downloaded the s/s. Thank you x edit to add: I went through the spreadsheet and reduced it to only the options I actually choose (e.g. not raglan, not knit, not above knee, etc) and still came out with *2376* discrete variations. This is ASTONISHING.
There are some differences, but this basic design reminds me a lot of the "one hour dress" popular during the 1920s. It was also highly customizable, though there were design elements to take into account the drop waist which was very popular at the time, so it wasn't quite a rectangle
This kind of ‘tutorial’ is PERFECT for my brain! Giving me all the building blocks to figure it out for myself, hell yeah! Your channel is fantastic, love the dresses, Im promoting you to all my friends lol
Love the spreadsheet! I also find them useful for so many things. Although this is out of character for me, I just can't go without adding my two cents worth of understanding about cap sleeves. In my world, a cap sleeve is one where it is part of the bodice fabric and extends beyond the top of the shoulder, so some could be fairly long in a drapey fabric. It defines the difference between a sleeveless top and a short sleeve top.
I totally respect and understand your reluctance for giving tutorials and such for all the (obvious and very relatable) reasons. But I am one of those people that would DEFINITELY have took/bought a pattern from you so this video is SO APPRECIATED. Honestly though, I prefer THIS style of video far more than a general video for 1 particular tutorial. This reasoning and the limits or where to break or follow and such… all that, within drafting/making garments is far more than just a tutorial or pattern. To me at least. I totally get that for other minds and such, the actual tutorial or pattern would be far better to follow and such but for me, from the bottom of my heart, big, big thanks for this video ❤ That AG1 drink looked yummy as well. Though I don’t know whether I will get a box from Europe as availability and shipping fee will be of much influence. Side note: I’m researching the fit in sleeve method and oh my… there’s a lot to consider. I would also call those raglan sleeves but with aspects of other styles. Been at it for days now. Currently making my first actual mock-up of shoulder-caps (for warmth and pain-relief). Had to self draft 3 alterations from first paper and then also fabric and basting. Now first actual mock-up with the thermal/fluffy fabric as well as just the outer layer. Won’t be perfect but wearable. Just need to wear it to see just how wearable it will remain but either way I’m well on my way towards my goal so yay!
A good trick for inset sleeves is getting the bell form once (there is a gemetrical tutorial, or maybe from an other pattern). It needs to be a tiny bit gathered, then you can set it within any hole. You can blow up the bell top and than you'll have a puffier gather. The bottom edge is straight and you can go to any length/form you wish.
Brilliant teaching. And so wonderful of you to put it up for free so everyone can access it. I’m linking it for textiles students in my school library website. There’s a whole syllabus here, which (should you wish to create a skillshare or similar course some time) you could develop into a lesson sequence with a whole detailed video on each part of the spreadsheet - caveats and practicalities of the styles that you skimmed over here, detailed drafting with a diy measurement spreadsheet, mix and match drawings as part of a pdf package… Thanks so much!
Thank you SO much for this, both the video and spreadsheet (I'm a s/sheet nut too!). I'm very much a beginner sewist and this is exactly the kind of guidance I was hoping for, as I'd much rather draft my own patterns than stick to a bought pattern. I'm on the larger side, and find even "size inclusive" patterns tricky as there's still a lot of adjustment I need to make to fit my body shape (most plus size patterns don't seem to think the boobage area should be in proportion, so that's always still too small!), so developing the skills to draft my own patterns from scratch is exactly what I'd prefer to do. Thank you so much :)
This video was super helpful! Normally I’m more of flowchart person (idk why but actually seeing like drawings or whatever helps me understand stuff) but this was super helpful! Thank you so much for making this and also for going through each section, I’m sure I will use this at some point :)
Excellent spreadsheet! And excellent comments! I never knew so many people thought like me!😂 Definitely need to add columns in the spreadsheet for underarm gussets and all the types of closures (zipper, buttons, hooks/eyes, etc). I took college courses in pattern drafting and tailoring, so i love seeing these types of charts and comparisons! ❤ Well done!
Putting a gathering string ALL around the neckline is exactly what they did historically. And yes, peasant shirt/dress does indeed have historical background, the so-called "shift" that was both shirt and underdress that everybody used. It wasn't even just peasants originally, just peasants used it longer than others.
I tried doing a bib apron with a criss cross strap back and gathered skirt bottom with patch pockets for my first no pattern project. I liked doing the apron because it had no sleeves of any kind. And now I wear it often to protect my clothes and sometimes just for fun. Thank you for your ideas and inspiration I may try one of these dresses as a future project.
Loved this video, so much great information! Since you love working with knit fabrics , would you consider doing a video talking about when you use zigzag or knit stitches for different seams and when you might use a straight stitch or twin needle or other sewing techniques on knit fabric. I’m never sure which ones are best for different seams .
Thank you for all your hard work, organizing facts/options once again. I do hold a special place in my heart and book marks for these videos when you make them 🥰
Thank you very much for taking the time to make a spreadsheet and then letting people use it for free. I honestly can't wait to use it and after I finish making Christmas gifts for my family I am going to make a sundress! I'll take photos and tag you on Instagram if you would like to see it.
18:06 lol i thought of one sleeve addition not on this in video… bell sleeve lol onto dropped sleeve lol and there are soooooo many ways to shape a bell sleeve too lol ❤ think like upside down butterfly sleeve shape into the dropped shoulder lol or the bishop sleeve but no cuff lol
Hi Charlie 😊 I watched the split side pants video recently- could you make a video fixing the gray split side pants? Please, they are so cute! I’d love for you to be able to wear them 🥰🤗
This was so thorough and helpful! Yes, there are so many design choices that get made subconsiously when I decide to make a dress - but they are kind of 'I sant to make a long dress with long sleeves and a flowy (is that a word? Probably not with that spelling...) skirt - and then I already have a picture of the basic shape/silhuette I'm going for and don't stop to question if that is a design choice or just the default my brain jumps to.. I can definitely see how using this spreadsheet can lead to more creative possibillities - thank you! Also, read the thumbnail and immediately decided to save this video to watch when home alene and able to focus on it - little anticipatory squeel at the word spreadsheet😅 - did not disappoint😁
Adding a slit all the way up the front would convert the dress into a robe, shirt dress, or coat (in heavier fabric). On that parenthetical, I've realized our terminology for garment types is very redundant as the only distinguishing factors in many cases are the type of fabric something is made from, the colour and pattern of the fabric, the inclusion or omission of visual details, the gender of the person wearing the garment, and the length of a garment - as noted already in the video, if you lop off the skirt from a dress, you get a a shirt. This spreadsheet could be made into an 'how to make an [inset upper garment type here]' guide just by adding a few more variables. Also I would encourage you to experiment with set-in sleeves as I suspect that can likewise be reduced into a set of guidelines in much the same way.
Thanks, a lot of great ideas, options and possibilities for making your creation uniquely individual for you 🤔🥸😍🥳 Really enjoying your content. While I can use a pattern (just), I was taught by my late Mum from about 5yo to innovate, design, drape, create what you envision 👍 I learnt to a couple of basic drawings up first, then I would sew until it looked like my drawings. I could go through a few massive boxes of materials, get the feel of something I liked and off I'd go. I haven't been sewing the last 10 or so years, just recently getting back into it. We're just going into our summer here, so a good time to start some indoor projects. It's going to be 45°C here tomorrow .... phewwwh that's getting pretty hot! That's about 115°F! in the shade! Happy sewing 😁🪡🧵🪡 Have a great day from Australia 🇭🇲🦘🙏🦘🇭🇲
My novelty brain has, somehow, been able to sit through this whole vid. I feel ive already built this intuition, yet it's enthralled me. Kinda want to make an animation of how inset sleves work tho. Like an interactive website thing for just getting a feel for it. (This scope kreep is crazy)
While I was watching this video I was thinking like... you could add buttons to the front and wear it closed as a dress or open on top of jeans and a t-shirt or something hahahha The possibilities are indeed infinite!!
I LOVE a spreadsheet, and especially a google sheet. Is there anyway you could make it available to anyone with the link? it says access is unavailable!! Thank you i love your approach to sewing, it's so fun :)
You could add decorative trims to the dress. Not necessarily attached to the hems, but lined above as horizontal stripes, or appliqué up the sides etc.
I agree that those are raglan sleeves, one of my favourite styles (if I can just get the armpit depth right). For some reason I do not like the look or feel of long dolman sleeves (short, meh, whatever, it's a short sleeve, but long, gah too much fabric in the armpit, I feel like I have bat wings). I've made several rectangular based dresses and I always end up taking whatever's left after I make sure I've got enough ease for my bust and cutting it into triangles and making gores out of it so I can make the most use of my fabric. Love this style of video, it's kind of how I run the martial arts class I teach at my dojo... it's more a guided exploration than a tutorial. "Ok, try this. Good! And if it goes this way, it becomes that. And if your opponent does this, it becomes that. And if you step to the inside instead of the outside, it becomes that. And if you don't move your feet at all, oh hey look at that, you get bonked." And that "wow, I can do anything with this!" feeling, I first got from making my first properly fitted princess seam bodice block.
Love this! totally going to steal it - thank you! Wanted to say though... technically... you could also add a closures column. not as an actually necessity, but as a design feature. For example, I have a dress (a bought one) that is almost exactly like your initial blue and white striped v-neck dress. The empire line waistline i think has been done with a channel made from seam binding inside the dress which has a thin length of material threaded through to create a 'sash'. but the skirt part has a slit at the bottom and a faked button-up front going up to the waistline from the slit. Not sure how they've done it exactly, but it looks like a skirt that you would do up with the buttons, and the bottom is left as a slit by 5 inches or so. Its only when you look closer at the skirt that you realise that the thing is entirely closed and not even 2 pieces of fabric, it's a fake button stand. so that's a design option, or even a real button stand if you were so inclined... and i guess that also extends to things like zips etc. but then you're getting out of the realm of beginner-friendly which I guess is why you didn't include it. fun though - thank you again!
This kind of thing is EXACTLY what I want out of a tutorial video - not step by step instructions on how to do a specific item/garment/whatever, but a guide to how to think about a project.
Yes, a guide video!! Outlines the process not individual steps.
Meeeee tooo, I want knowledge! Not a pattern…
(Nothing wrong with patterns but I’m exactly like her intro feeling expressed)
Agreed,
I think of this as like a "pattern recipe". The "measure with your heart" kind of recipe.
It's giving "things I expect to see behind a paywall"
Thanks for sharing!
One of the things I appreciate most about this channel is that you know yourself well enough to know you can't\don't want to make a tutorial but still want to be helpful to people who might be struggling! I know that I am going to make use of your spreadsheet and try my hand at making a dress!!
Me too.
What I appreciate about your tutorial videos (and I would argue that you're still doing them....at least for my definition of tutorial) is that you're helping me to work out how to do stuff MY way. This is very necessary because my shape only fits extremely loose standard patterns or high street fashion
Agreed! The best tutorials (for me) explain the math that was used to figure out what measurements you need.
Longtime basic costumer for medieval recreation, working almost exclusively with woven fabrics. Long sleeves in woven fabric need underarm gussets to provide bias stretch and prevent tearing out your armpits. It's a little tricky to understand, but once you do it, it makes sense. Here's the most basic method:
Make your dress with a right angle armpit where the sleeve meets the side seam. Cut out a square of fabric about 4" x 4". Fold it in half diagonally. With your dress laid flat on your cutting surface, lay the folded gusset into the armpit so it fills in that 90 degree angle. This should look kind of like it's turning the sleeve into a mini dolman. Pin the points in place to the dress. Sew the sides of the gusset square to the edges of the sleeve seam and side seam. Then sew the sleeve seam from the point of the gusset down to the cuff/hem. Sew the side seam the same way.
This works because woven fabric has some stretch on the bias. It can handle the stresses of being pulled by a raised arm where the 90 degree angle ends up tearing the fabric.
I hope this makes sense. It's hard to describe without pics.
I get it! it also helps to prevent a huge bulky wedge rising above your shoulder when raising the arm. I've always had trouble with sleeves either not being long enough or feeling like my shoulders are going to hulk out when I extend my arms, esp because I prefer woven fabrics.
Morgan Donner has a good video on sewing gussets. It might help those, who have trouble following text and need visual cues.
Also bernadette banners pirate shirt shows how to add these gussets
How come gussets aren't seen in woven 'ready to wear' clothes?
@@robehickmann because current fashion isn't as concerned about waste fabric and often chooses the quickest method.
I just wanna say ... As someone who often uses CC on videos, I like the Easter Eggs and some phrases used to describe sounds, and stuff. Always gets a chuckle from me.
didn't know the potato fact... learn something new every day. ♥
Oh darn my forgetful ADHD brain! I've used the CC for a few videos after seeing comments about them being great, but I forgot to put them on for this one. Now I feel like I missed out on stuff lol
OH. It's a shift pattern! I do some historical sewing and this is basically exactly what a medieval shift is, without the gores (gores let you use narrower pieces of fabric, as historically fabric was only about half as wide as modern bolts). That makes it make so much sense in my head!
Right? that is what I thought when she started explaining it. It really is like back to basics of sewing. Its really fun to think about
What's old is new again! ❤
For anyone looking to do paper pattern drafting with a shape similar to the blue & white ones, I recommend The Closet Historian's videos on her all in one sleeve bodice block! She's done so many different style variations with it.
Exactly and she has a video on how to use a slopper pattern to make your custom master pattern
Her guides are great generally, and I made a fitted 'bodice block' / sloper for myself following her guides. Not sure if using the term 'bodice' is technically correct for a man.
@@robehickmann When I took pattern drafting in college we still called it a "basic bodice" or "basic block" regardless of gender, and the dart placement was more or less the same, just different sizes!
@@vincentbriggs1780 Thank you, that makes sense and I was surprised that in making this I needed to add some slight 'bust' darts to fix arm hole gaping.
@@robehickmann you could call them pectoral darts if it feels better.
0:59 am I really the only one who likes watching her bc i enjoy her “process” and her process inspires more of my own? Its like watching a professional artist painting in a park i be like “oh! I never thought of it that way! Interesting!”
Same here, her process and personality is fun to watch. Most of what she is making isn't something I'd replicate directly, but the process and principles apply to a larger scope.
Great video. Longtime viewer. Constructive feedback incoming: sometimes your comments in the air that appear as you talk disappear too fast to read. I’m a native speaker so that’s not the issue. The issue is that first, the viewer has to notice that text has appeared, and then read while you’re talking, so the text needs (for me) to be on there a few seconds longer, although after writing this a bunch of your air writing was on plenty long. So it’s only occasionally a thing ❤❤❤❤❤❤ With all my love and gratitude for your amazing work❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for that feedback! Timing can be really hard to tell during editing, since I already know the words I've written, and therefore can read them much faster, so I'll take note of that more closely in the future!
Continue being awesome! ❤🎉
I agree
@gettheetothestitchery For me is rare enough to miss something that I don't mind rewinding a few seconds. 😊 At least you don't post up a huge block of text, which I'd need to pause, without giving me enough time to realize it and hit pause. 😂
This is a WONDERFUL comparison of style elements for dress design. With everything arrayed into a spread sheet, the viewer is able to see everything at once and picking element by element while progressing down the dress. In my opinion, this was the easiest to understand and most effective for evaluating options; SO GOOD!!
Obviously I just started but I let out an emphatic "No ma'am!" To the opening question. No such thing as too many spreadsheets. Firm believer
You are not the only one to think so. I work in a place full of absolute nerds. I recently found out that there is an Excel club at lunch times. I kid you not.
Another sleeve option: the top seams can be gathered/cinched down over the shoulders for a different take on the sleeveless option. It’s definitely a more Grecian take on the dress and I recommend a drapey fabric for this application. In fact, Ancient Greek dresses are basically caftans and Fantastical Follies and Daisy Victoria both have some great videos about them.
Something that I do on my tops and dresses with open necklines that fall off my shoulders: I usually sew a ribbon and a snap into each shoulder to loop around my bra straps.
I remember when I was being fitted for my wedding outfit they did those loops and my grandmother said that back in the day even ready-made clothing had them. I felt super young because I had never come across them before. Simple and brilliant
@@dawnmoriarty9347 I remember being a bridesmaid as a kid (long before I'd need a bra) and despite my dress having sleeves compared to the sleeveless of the older ladies (my mum and aunts), I felt very sad that the staff in the store quite bluntly told me that they wouldn't be putting them in my dress. It wouldn't have taken much to just tell me they would at the fitting and then when my dress was made without them just say someone forgot to add them and pretend that they'd tell someone off later. But oh well lol
There is nothing to stop a person from cutting either the front or back in two pieces with an inch or so extra on the center seam, and adding either a zipper or fasteners (buttons, snaps, hooks) , either full length, or more usually partway (waist or hip). This makes life much easier for people like me who have limited arm or shoulder mobility.
I strongly second the recommendation for armpit gussets, too.
I think what you need in a woven fabric is a soft hand. No stiff fabrics, but you could use velvet, especially silk velvet, or linen that is softened. Cotton is usually too stiff for this kind of style, but lightweight wool is very Viking. This is a Medieval, Greek, or a Viking kind of design, you know! I love your spreadsheets, girl--NERD OUT! :D
I'd use cotton myself but I use Poplins and quilting cottons almost exclusively. But it lends itself to more structure if you're using the heavier fabrics. So shorter sleeves and one of the more structured skirt styles that doesn't rely on the drape for the look.
I was thinking that this is the perfect dress to make from bedsheets. They're woven cotton, but usually pretty soft and drape-y. A large pattern/print isn't a problem with this type of dress. You got plenty enough material for a maxi dress, as well.
I live near an IKEA and I go there regularly to rummage through the boxes of discounted fabric items.
It's great material for simple summer dresses.
I love that your videos are "research style" and explorative. This is exactly how new ideas are found, and I love the idea of the spreadsheet too! When you understand the fundamentals of how something works, it's amazing to see what can be created by changing the variables.
All of that to say: thanks for your videos and teaching how to be an explorer of fabrics!
Seconding the suggestions for underarm gussets! Shoving a square in that seam can make such a big difference in fit! My shirts are made entirely of rectangles and the underarm gusset adds so much more room and comfort there.
(I also have one in the crotch seam of my Victorian inspired swimsuit. Very necessary to the fit, since the front and back are both cut in one piece without centre front/back seams.)
This shape is basically the 1920's "1 hour dress". Awesome! 👏
35:54 you can add vertical drawstrings to the center sides of the middle opening at bust, then you draw tighter with a vertical and a horizontal drawstring in each hand to create a heart-shaped effect
This was such a fantastic way to do this! It’s teaching a man to fish instead of giving him to fish. I love being able to learn the theory like this that can then be applied to multiple projects. Definitely keep up videos like this! 😊
Anyone embarking onto the sewist’s path would benefit greatly from a video like this. Good job, girl! 🎉
Watching your videos over the years, gave me so much confidence in my sewing journey. Recently I made myself a pleated skirt based on your 'pleats experimentation' and it turned out awsome. Thank you 😘
I love this kind of "reference" content. I'm probably going to rewatch this video about as many times as I would a tutorial. This has a similar feel to the embroidery stitch videos I found you with years ago, while not being a straight up tutorial.... a pick your own adventure if you will 😅
*ehem*.......YOU INSPIRED ME TO SELF DRAFT MY ENTIRE HALLOWEEN COSTUME THIS YEAR! It went pretty well, though I still haven't finished all the planned element garments. (Maybe by Christmas.) I EVEN MADE SHOES WITH LEATHER SOLES!!!! (Finished-ish the evening of Halloween . After spending Halloween in costume without the custom shoes. Still need to make the insoles, and fix the right shoe. It was the first one I finished and wasn't assembled properly.) So, thanks! I've still got a crinoline/tutu to self draft and sew (last element), but I know my sewing machine and iron much better now than I did before. Mostly do to your influence. YAY!
That’s freaking awesome, way to go!!
Best tutorial ever. Now I know that sleeves aren't scary! They don't even have to exist! This makes making tops way less scary to me! yay! Spreadsheets rock. Also I learned a new word. Gunkus. Love it. XD
A type of pocket that I want to do on a project, but I have to make time for me projects... I call it a Mary Poppins Pocket. On the outside there is a very small but cute patch. Like a unicorn. but when you put your hand in, it leads through a slit into a very large internal pouch. Which is going to have to be anchored at the waist.
So... Basically an 18th century pocket? Those are big enough to hold a wine bottle. 😂
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 All pockets should be the size of the 18th century pocket. I just want to see the look of shock when I go to grab my keys from a 2 in. x 3 in. patch and my arm disappears to my elbow.
So pleased to find someone who loves to make spreadsheets and such! Making forms to collect needed info was a specialty of mine when I directed a non-profit...... It's crazy that your mind seems to work in the same wonky ways that mine does! Love watching your videos.
Keep being yourself!
Another option for cinching that was on a dress I had when I was younger. The dress had button holes stitched through both the front and back and a small belt went across the back, through the button holes and tied in the front.
For the raglan/peasant style, the easiest way to do a V neckline is to gather the neckline and attach it to a non gathered (shaped) facing. This can let you do lots of other styles of neckline as well. This would also make it easier to do a butterfly sleeve as well.
That sounds like the adjustable waistband in kids' pants. They basically run an elastic that is split into buttonholes every half inch from the front left hip, around the back, to the front right hip. At the created size, it fits beautifully. If the kid has a narrower waist, you can pull the elastic tab however tightly you need it. The waistband basically gathers around that tighter elastic, leaving a flat front and gathered rear. If you're lucky, your kid grows width-wise enough to let it out a couple times before they shoot up another 2-3 inches and the pants become capris. 😂 I think they need to be in any pants for women, too!
This is with no exaggeration whatsoever, infinity times more useful to people like me than a typical tutorial. And for the record as well, people like you and Rachel Maksy for example may not explicitly make "tutorials" but for the people who learn by making mistakes, watching the PROCESS of how someone creates something, how they handle problems and fix them, what they do when they get bored or don't like something but find a way to switch it up, creating imperfect pieces--- THAT is a tutorial for those people. (Me Lol) If I can't come away from a tutorial knowing fundamentals about how to fix it when I inevitably make a stupid mistake then I'm going to get frustrated and might give up before I even finish a project. A normal tutorial tends to move forward as though you've followed along every step of the way without screwing something up or getting frustrated, it shows how to make something if you do it perfectly and I'm just too chaotic for that to be of much help for me. But this? This is a work of tutorial ART. I've never seen a video that really gets my brain the way this one does. Many many thanks 🙏🙏🙏🙏 10/10
Charlie, this is absolutely golden what you’ve shown us. Had trouble connecting the dots pre-video. The explanation, pictures and spreadsheet - YES! 🙏
This is the most useful type of video I have ever watched for self-drafting a dress, thanks for explaining all of this stuff!!
I think this video really is a tutorial. What's more, for me this type of tutorial is perfect. All those options are what I need. And as others mentioned, you do need gussets for long sleeves, if you are using woven fabric. I actually prefer adding a gusset, for me it feels nicer than a set in sleeve.
Ooooh..thanks Charlie!!! This is soo well organized! I hv various spreadsheets, charts, colour-coded, sorted in various methods only I can decipher…and sometimes even I can’t after a long gap!! Requesting u to make a video on the different types of shapes one has to cut out for various parts of a garment…at least a basis to sorta start out with! Pls pretty pls!!
I don't know what one would call this learning style of seeking to fully understand the logic behind something so that one can mentally project all of the possible outcomes, but it is how my brain works. Its working at the level of concepts / processes instead of the products of said processes.
For some reason my mind rejects anything that isn't understood conceptually first - to accept using a pattern, I'd need to know how to make that pattern from nothing, or my brain just says 'nope'.
Yes! Understanding the why of a process is what my brain wants before I do a thing.
THANK YOU for going over skirt hems! I had a skirt in college that was a handkerchief style and I had NO idea what it was called until now!!!
I went to ghana and bought a dress, its a single piece of rectangular fabric with a hole for a neck, and sewed up the two sides with absolutely no shaping. I adore this dress and I've thought about trying to make another one for something like 15 years.
I make a lot of African - inspired caftans since I bought several in Kenya 20 years ago. They are the best thing for summer ever. You’re wearing your own shade, so you don’t need as much sunscreen, and the wind blows right through from one sleeve to the other, so you cool off. I use cotton or linen and so far I use a rectangle fabric shape.
Next time I want a kaftan to be really long and really wide, I’m going to curve the side hem edges up so that when I put my arms down, the corner hem doesn’t drag on the floor. Last time I hemmed it higher/straight across so that if I put my arms down, it wouldn’t drag. That made the center shorter than I wanted it.
Right now I want to make a dolman of soft canvas that is more narrow in the body than my big caftans. I want long sleeves for winter. The problem with long sleeves and Dolman shapes is that if the back is too fitted, you can’t reach your arms forward without pulling on the back Fabric. It definitely doesn’t work to have the same shape/size back piece as the front piece when the garment is fitted more closely to the body.
I have decided I will try a pair of pleats on the back shoulders (like some traditional shirts do) and I’m going to slant the shoulders down a bit so that the Dolman sleeves are on a slight bias instead of straight on the grain. We’ll see how that works.
I’m working on a writing deadline right now but when I’m done with that next week, I’m gonna try the concept dress. Years ago I made a pattern by tracing a purchased African dress. It had the same shaped pattern piece front and back, except for neckline. I now have five of those dresses, but none of them have long sleeves. Nothing like a new adventure!
Love your non-tutorial tutorials!
THIS IS AMAZING! I’ve always wanted to try self drafting but I’m new at sewing and trying to decide what to do and when to do it without instructions or a pattern can be…intimidating. This is basically a choose-your-own-adventure, but for a freakin DRESS! I LOVE IT!!!!
All hail the spreadsheet! 😍 Oh, the joy of a well laid out spreadsheet.
Thank you for a great breakdown Charlie!
I have a fun top in low stretch fabric that has one inset sleeve and one raglan sleeve and an asymetrical neckline. Love it though it is too small at the moment. Keeping it for the great construction though. I'm more used to seeing raglan sleeves set in an ungathered neckline but the gathered gives you much more wiggleroom both in movement and precision of patterning.
Raglan sleeves are great! Classy diagonal lines; full range of movement; and when the edges are cut straight instead of curved, they build a square neckline for you! Another fun 'easy sleeve' is a flutter sleeve (a variant of the butterfly sleeve), since that's just a semi-circle attached along the top of the arm hole. Or a full circle with a slit cut to the centre and that slit then opened across the top of the armhole, but I find the drape of that style tends to 'clump' in the middle, while a semi-circle flutters more evenly.
I have 100% made lists of different necklines, sleeve types/lengths, waist heights, and skirt styles, and rolled dice to Randomly Generate dress ideas when I've been drawing and had art block. For a while I also had a list of poses and a D20, since decided what pose to draw a figure in took up so much time.
Masterclass in how to approach projects. The bedsheets vs fabric store video comes to mind. THANK YOU PROFESSOR STITCHERY
Watching your drawing at the beginning, showing the basic idea of your dress, reminds me of the 1920’s 1 hour dress. It was my first go at sewing “without a pattern”.
I love your spreadsheets!
I am also a person who does not vibe with patterns, for the most part. I am mostly a complete rogue when it comes to sewing garments. I starts with only the vaguest idea of what category of garment I want to end up with, pick my fabric and start sewing.
Sometimes it's a good idea to go in with a bit more of a plan, though, and the way you laid it out here is very cogent!
Weirdly set-in sleeves were the first thing I self-drafted, mostly out of naive hubris, but they worked out fine, so 🤷
P.S. Thank you for introducing me to the Seraflex and Eloflex threads! I exclusively sew either by hand or with an antique chainstitch machine, which has made me generally avoid stretch material. While it certainly provides less stretch than a zigzag or other moderns stitches might, it is enough for me right now!
It's the intersection of two of my special interests (spreadsheets and dressmaking) presented by two of my favourite UA-camrs (Charlie and Puppy)!!
I have downloaded the s/s. Thank you x
edit to add: I went through the spreadsheet and reduced it to only the options I actually choose (e.g. not raglan, not knit, not above knee, etc) and still came out with *2376* discrete variations. This is ASTONISHING.
There are some differences, but this basic design reminds me a lot of the "one hour dress" popular during the 1920s.
It was also highly customizable, though there were design elements to take into account the drop waist which was very popular at the time, so it wasn't quite a rectangle
This kind of ‘tutorial’ is PERFECT for my brain! Giving me all the building blocks to figure it out for myself, hell yeah! Your channel is fantastic, love the dresses, Im promoting you to all my friends lol
This is significantly more information than a tutorial ish or an actual tutorial 😅😂❤
I love your version of tutorial! It is so comprehensive and you explain it all so beautifully
I really wish I could upvote this a million times! Thank you, this is exactly what I didn't know I needed.
Love the spreadsheet! I also find them useful for so many things. Although this is out of character for me, I just can't go without adding my two cents worth of understanding about cap sleeves. In my world, a cap sleeve is one where it is part of the bodice fabric and extends beyond the top of the shoulder, so some could be fairly long in a drapey fabric. It defines the difference between a sleeveless top and a short sleeve top.
Love this. I love dolman and butterfly sleeves. Sooooo comfy
I totally respect and understand your reluctance for giving tutorials and such for all the (obvious and very relatable) reasons. But I am one of those people that would DEFINITELY have took/bought a pattern from you so this video is SO APPRECIATED. Honestly though, I prefer THIS style of video far more than a general video for 1 particular tutorial. This reasoning and the limits or where to break or follow and such… all that, within drafting/making garments is far more than just a tutorial or pattern. To me at least. I totally get that for other minds and such, the actual tutorial or pattern would be far better to follow and such but for me, from the bottom of my heart, big, big thanks for this video ❤
That AG1 drink looked yummy as well. Though I don’t know whether I will get a box from Europe as availability and shipping fee will be of much influence.
Side note: I’m researching the fit in sleeve method and oh my… there’s a lot to consider. I would also call those raglan sleeves but with aspects of other styles.
Been at it for days now. Currently making my first actual mock-up of shoulder-caps (for warmth and pain-relief). Had to self draft 3 alterations from first paper and then also fabric and basting. Now first actual mock-up with the thermal/fluffy fabric as well as just the outer layer. Won’t be perfect but wearable. Just need to wear it to see just how wearable it will remain but either way I’m well on my way towards my goal so yay!
That’s a LOT of guidance! Thanks for making this video - it makes a lot of dress-creating details a lot clearer.
Definitely bookmarking this one!
A good trick for inset sleeves is getting the bell form once (there is a gemetrical tutorial, or maybe from an other pattern). It needs to be a tiny bit gathered, then you can set it within any hole. You can blow up the bell top and than you'll have a puffier gather. The bottom edge is straight and you can go to any length/form you wish.
Brilliant teaching. And so wonderful of you to put it up for free so everyone can access it. I’m linking it for textiles students in my school library website.
There’s a whole syllabus here, which (should you wish to create a skillshare or similar course some time) you could develop into a lesson sequence with a whole detailed video on each part of the spreadsheet - caveats and practicalities of the styles that you skimmed over here, detailed drafting with a diy measurement spreadsheet, mix and match drawings as part of a pdf package…
Thanks so much!
You have no idea how helpful this is. Thank you.❤
Thank you SO much for this, both the video and spreadsheet (I'm a s/sheet nut too!). I'm very much a beginner sewist and this is exactly the kind of guidance I was hoping for, as I'd much rather draft my own patterns than stick to a bought pattern. I'm on the larger side, and find even "size inclusive" patterns tricky as there's still a lot of adjustment I need to make to fit my body shape (most plus size patterns don't seem to think the boobage area should be in proportion, so that's always still too small!), so developing the skills to draft my own patterns from scratch is exactly what I'd prefer to do. Thank you so much :)
So much work. So many words. Great job! Thanks
This video was super helpful! Normally I’m more of flowchart person (idk why but actually seeing like drawings or whatever helps me understand stuff) but this was super helpful! Thank you so much for making this and also for going through each section, I’m sure I will use this at some point :)
Excellent spreadsheet! And excellent comments! I never knew so many people thought like me!😂 Definitely need to add columns in the spreadsheet for underarm gussets and all the types of closures (zipper, buttons, hooks/eyes, etc). I took college courses in pattern drafting and tailoring, so i love seeing these types of charts and comparisons! ❤ Well done!
Putting a gathering string ALL around the neckline is exactly what they did historically.
And yes, peasant shirt/dress does indeed have historical background, the so-called "shift" that was both shirt and underdress that everybody used. It wasn't even just peasants originally, just peasants used it longer than others.
I tried doing a bib apron with a criss cross strap back and gathered skirt bottom with patch pockets for my first no pattern project. I liked doing the apron because it had no sleeves of any kind. And now I wear it often to protect my clothes and sometimes just for fun. Thank you for your ideas and inspiration I may try one of these dresses as a future project.
Loved this video, so much great information!
Since you love working with knit fabrics , would you consider doing a video talking about when you use zigzag or knit stitches for different seams and when you might use a straight stitch or twin needle or other sewing techniques on knit fabric. I’m never sure which ones are best for different seams .
Love this video
I have successfully made a dress with one rectangle with a neck hole in the middle. Easy peasy😊
Sewing and spreadsheets Two of my favourite things in life I knew I loved you for a reason ❤
All hail the spreadsheet! I enjoy a good spreadsheet!
Love your ideas. It a good way to think of dresses
Thank you for all your hard work, organizing facts/options once again. I do hold a special place in my heart and book marks for these videos when you make them 🥰
Thank you again for a wonderful resource! Immediately saving this for reference next time I make a dolman or raglan! 🥰
Love me a good spreadsheet. Completely inspired
Thank you very much for taking the time to make a spreadsheet and then letting people use it for free. I honestly can't wait to use it and after I finish making Christmas gifts for my family I am going to make a sundress! I'll take photos and tag you on Instagram if you would like to see it.
Terrific video! It's a great primer on building styles. Bravo!
Oh i just love that you shared your spreadsheet with us!!!! without charging us, too! Free is one of my favorite four-letter eff-words lol
I love this way of thinking!
18:06 lol i thought of one sleeve addition not on this in video… bell sleeve lol onto dropped sleeve lol and there are soooooo many ways to shape a bell sleeve too lol ❤ think like upside down butterfly sleeve shape into the dropped shoulder lol or the bishop sleeve but no cuff lol
Very first thing I do with every project of any kind is start a spreadsheet lol, thank you for spread(sheet)ing the good word of spreadsheets
These are my favorite tutorialish videos! I want options lol
Thanks for sharing your spreadsheet, I'm off to dig out my stash.❤
Brilliant 🤩 thank you Charlie. This is just what I needed.
Hi Charlie 😊 I watched the split side pants video recently- could you make a video fixing the gray split side pants? Please, they are so cute! I’d love for you to be able to wear them 🥰🤗
This was so thorough and helpful! Yes, there are so many design choices that get made subconsiously when I decide to make a dress - but they are kind of 'I sant to make a long dress with long sleeves and a flowy (is that a word? Probably not with that spelling...) skirt - and then I already have a picture of the basic shape/silhuette I'm going for and don't stop to question if that is a design choice or just the default my brain jumps to.. I can definitely see how using this spreadsheet can lead to more creative possibillities - thank you!
Also, read the thumbnail and immediately decided to save this video to watch when home alene and able to focus on it - little anticipatory squeel at the word spreadsheet😅 - did not disappoint😁
Thanks for sharing, I’m definitely going to make a couple versions of these.
I love spreadsheets. 😂😂
Did I see wallpaper that matches the tile below? Adoreable! 5:11
Generally, the more fitted the armhole, the greater the ease of movement in the arm.
Adding a slit all the way up the front would convert the dress into a robe, shirt dress, or coat (in heavier fabric). On that parenthetical, I've realized our terminology for garment types is very redundant as the only distinguishing factors in many cases are the type of fabric something is made from, the colour and pattern of the fabric, the inclusion or omission of visual details, the gender of the person wearing the garment, and the length of a garment - as noted already in the video, if you lop off the skirt from a dress, you get a a shirt.
This spreadsheet could be made into an 'how to make an [inset upper garment type here]' guide just by adding a few more variables. Also I would encourage you to experiment with set-in sleeves as I suspect that can likewise be reduced into a set of guidelines in much the same way.
Thanks, a lot of great ideas, options and possibilities for making your creation uniquely individual for you 🤔🥸😍🥳
Really enjoying your content. While I can use a pattern (just), I was taught by my late Mum from about 5yo to innovate, design, drape, create what you envision 👍 I learnt to a couple of basic drawings up first, then I would sew until it looked like my drawings. I could go through a few massive boxes of materials, get the feel of something I liked and off I'd go. I haven't been sewing the last 10 or so years, just recently getting back into it.
We're just going into our summer here, so a good time to start some indoor projects. It's going to be 45°C here tomorrow ....
phewwwh that's getting pretty hot! That's about 115°F! in the shade! Happy sewing 😁🪡🧵🪡
Have a great day from Australia 🇭🇲🦘🙏🦘🇭🇲
Love a good spreadsheet ❤
This video is brilliant and thank you SO MUCH for the spreadsheet!
My novelty brain has, somehow, been able to sit through this whole vid. I feel ive already built this intuition, yet it's enthralled me. Kinda want to make an animation of how inset sleves work tho. Like an interactive website thing for just getting a feel for it. (This scope kreep is crazy)
Charlie: "Can you have too many spreadsheets?"
My husband, offended: "NO!"
Charlie: "............. No."
Husband: _cackles madly in triumph_
While I was watching this video I was thinking like... you could add buttons to the front and wear it closed as a dress or open on top of jeans and a t-shirt or something hahahha The possibilities are indeed infinite!!
Love these explorative, theory videos! ❤
thank you for making this video!❤
Love it, love it, love it. Helps the proces of the brainz a lot
I LOVE a spreadsheet, and especially a google sheet. Is there anyway you could make it available to anyone with the link? it says access is unavailable!! Thank you i love your approach to sewing, it's so fun :)
Ope, thanks for that, I always forget!
You could add decorative trims to the dress. Not necessarily attached to the hems, but lined above as horizontal stripes, or appliqué up the sides etc.
I agree that those are raglan sleeves, one of my favourite styles (if I can just get the armpit depth right). For some reason I do not like the look or feel of long dolman sleeves (short, meh, whatever, it's a short sleeve, but long, gah too much fabric in the armpit, I feel like I have bat wings).
I've made several rectangular based dresses and I always end up taking whatever's left after I make sure I've got enough ease for my bust and cutting it into triangles and making gores out of it so I can make the most use of my fabric.
Love this style of video, it's kind of how I run the martial arts class I teach at my dojo... it's more a guided exploration than a tutorial. "Ok, try this. Good! And if it goes this way, it becomes that. And if your opponent does this, it becomes that. And if you step to the inside instead of the outside, it becomes that. And if you don't move your feet at all, oh hey look at that, you get bonked."
And that "wow, I can do anything with this!" feeling, I first got from making my first properly fitted princess seam bodice block.
Love this! totally going to steal it - thank you! Wanted to say though... technically... you could also add a closures column. not as an actually necessity, but as a design feature. For example, I have a dress (a bought one) that is almost exactly like your initial blue and white striped v-neck dress. The empire line waistline i think has been done with a channel made from seam binding inside the dress which has a thin length of material threaded through to create a 'sash'. but the skirt part has a slit at the bottom and a faked button-up front going up to the waistline from the slit. Not sure how they've done it exactly, but it looks like a skirt that you would do up with the buttons, and the bottom is left as a slit by 5 inches or so. Its only when you look closer at the skirt that you realise that the thing is entirely closed and not even 2 pieces of fabric, it's a fake button stand. so that's a design option, or even a real button stand if you were so inclined... and i guess that also extends to things like zips etc. but then you're getting out of the realm of beginner-friendly which I guess is why you didn't include it. fun though - thank you again!
Excellent thank you