Thank you! I watched and rewatched this video several times while working on tearing down and reassembling the ignition actuator on my 1990 F150. I couldn't have done it without your help!
Instead of cutting the wires 9:00 theirs 2 bolts holding up the steering wheel, removing them allows you to lower the steering wheel to remove the wires
if you can recall, when you inserted the metal plate into the round shroud that holds the key cylinder, in what position was it when it was connected to the actuator rod. I think there is a gear inside that shroud that meshs with that metal plate and where it connect matters as it controls the amount of travel that is pushes actuator when you rotate it.
All you have to do is D pen the wires in the connector pull them out take a picture of which wire goes into which hole feed them through the column and then plug them back into the gray connector no cutting wires
How did you hook up the tach? What kind of gauge did you use? I have the same exact van, your channel is incredibly helpful and I'll be ordering your vrv parts soon to rebuild mine. Also do you know what size Phillip's machine screw holds the vrv on? Mine are missing
Thanks for the kind words. As for the tach, I bought this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIJ4AM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 "Auto Meter 2888 Performance Tachometer". It's the simplest to install, because you only have to wrap the alternator with a sensor and clamp. Other tachs are a bit more complicated. The only problem with the Autometer design is, you have to calibrate the tach using a timing gun, and those are getting rarer and rarer to find with the Diesel ferret meter. As for the VRV, contact me via www.nickpisca.com/diesel/contact/ to discuss. Depending on what needs to be repaired, you might want to send it to me for a full rebuild. As for the VRV mounting bolts (from the VRV to the IP), I've seen lots of different types of screws. Phillips, allen, and regular hex bolts have been used, and I suspect the variation is due to people losing the original screws over the years. I hate the phillips ones because it's such a pain to access with a screwdriver, especially in the van. So I recommend installing a replacement hex (or allen) because it's easier to get a ratchet in there. The thread size is 1/4” - 20, and the length is close to 3/4" IIRC. I'm going to start including that bolt size in my inventory as well.
This was a poor solution. Don't cut shit. You will have a bulky pile of junk once completed doing this way. Don't be a hack. Think how the factory installed it. They didn't cut shit to put it together. It is a puzzle you need to solve. Proper procedure.... 1) Leave the collar on the column. It's a bitch to put back correctly, anyway. 2) The gray plastic connector you so astutely showed at the bottom of the column that was too difficult to remove is exactly what needs to be disconnected. It isn't too tough to do. 3) Once disconnected, you will see there is a red keeper in the connector. Pull the red keeper. This will allow the wires to be removed from the gray plastic connector. 4) Pull the wires individually up through the steering wheel collar. Pay attention to the path the wires take. 5) Open the package with the new switch and take a few pictures of the location of the wires as they are in the gray plastic connector. This is a requirement as the colors of the wires may be different from the factory. 6) Remove the red keeper from the new gray connector and remove the wires. 7) Push the wires individually back down through the column's collar. Follow the path from whence they came. 8) Reinstall the wires in their respective holes in the gray plastic connector. Reinstall the red keeper. 9) Install the new switch mechanism onto the column. 10) Reconnect the gray connector at the bottom of the column. 11) Put the steering wheel, column, lower dash panels and eveything else back together. Done. I just this last Saturday. Lesson: Don't destroy something to take it apart. If you can't figure it, find the right UA-cam video or the right commenter. The correct answer is here or in your head.
Loved your video. I need to do that tomorrow. What is that collar part that holds the ignition cylinder called? In case I can't get one at the junk yard and I need to order it.
Wow, Thanks for this. We were mystified about how to fit this through when we took everything apart the other day. Disassemble the pigtail harness! Hot damn.
Thank you! I watched and rewatched this video several times while working on tearing down and reassembling the ignition actuator on my 1990 F150. I couldn't have done it without your help!
Thanks just replaced the tss in my 6.9 f250 and i appreciate your closeup camera shots big help
very well explained and walked through the whole process. this video helped me out tremendously with my ignition on my 1983 bronco 👏 thank you sir
Instead of cutting the wires 9:00 theirs 2 bolts holding up the steering wheel, removing them allows you to lower the steering wheel to remove the wires
Does that apply to non tilt wheel? Cause I'm stuck there and can't figure out how to get the pigtail out
if you can recall, when you inserted the metal plate into the round shroud that holds the key cylinder, in what position was it when it was connected to the actuator rod. I think there is a gear inside that shroud that meshs with that metal plate and where it connect matters as it controls the amount of travel that is pushes actuator when you rotate it.
All you have to do is D pen the wires in the connector pull them out take a picture of which wire goes into which hole feed them through the column and then plug them back into the gray connector no cutting wires
Hi , what about if I don’t have the key , you need to turn the key on in order to push the pin to remove the switch???
How did you hook up the tach? What kind of gauge did you use? I have the same exact van, your channel is incredibly helpful and I'll be ordering your vrv parts soon to rebuild mine.
Also do you know what size Phillip's machine screw holds the vrv on? Mine are missing
Thanks for the kind words. As for the tach, I bought this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIJ4AM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 "Auto Meter 2888 Performance Tachometer". It's the simplest to install, because you only have to wrap the alternator with a sensor and clamp. Other tachs are a bit more complicated. The only problem with the Autometer design is, you have to calibrate the tach using a timing gun, and those are getting rarer and rarer to find with the Diesel ferret meter.
As for the VRV, contact me via www.nickpisca.com/diesel/contact/ to discuss. Depending on what needs to be repaired, you might want to send it to me for a full rebuild.
As for the VRV mounting bolts (from the VRV to the IP), I've seen lots of different types of screws. Phillips, allen, and regular hex bolts have been used, and I suspect the variation is due to people losing the original screws over the years. I hate the phillips ones because it's such a pain to access with a screwdriver, especially in the van. So I recommend installing a replacement hex (or allen) because it's easier to get a ratchet in there. The thread size is 1/4” - 20, and the length is close to 3/4" IIRC. I'm going to start including that bolt size in my inventory as well.
Why don’t you take the pins out of the plug instead of cutting perfectly good wires
Where did you order your blinker and wiring assembl
Where did you order your blinker and wiring assembly?
There is a better way don’t need to cut
This was a poor solution. Don't cut shit. You will have a bulky pile of junk once completed doing this way. Don't be a hack.
Think how the factory installed it. They didn't cut shit to put it together. It is a puzzle you need to solve.
Proper procedure....
1) Leave the collar on the column. It's a bitch to put back correctly, anyway.
2) The gray plastic connector you so astutely showed at the bottom of the column that was too difficult to remove is exactly what needs to be disconnected. It isn't too tough to do.
3) Once disconnected, you will see there is a red keeper in the connector. Pull the red keeper. This will allow the wires to be removed from the gray plastic connector.
4) Pull the wires individually up through the steering wheel collar. Pay attention to the path the wires take.
5) Open the package with the new switch and take a few pictures of the location of the wires as they are in the gray plastic connector. This is a requirement as the colors of the wires may be different from the factory.
6) Remove the red keeper from the new gray connector and remove the wires.
7) Push the wires individually back down through the column's collar. Follow the path from whence they came.
8) Reinstall the wires in their respective holes in the gray plastic connector. Reinstall the red keeper.
9) Install the new switch mechanism onto the column.
10) Reconnect the gray connector at the bottom of the column.
11) Put the steering wheel, column, lower dash panels and eveything else back together.
Done.
I just this last Saturday.
Lesson: Don't destroy something to take it apart. If you can't figure it, find the right UA-cam video or the right commenter. The correct answer is here or in your head.
to each their own. post a video, and link it here. some people might want to do it your way, some might like it my way.
Loved your video. I need to do that tomorrow. What is that collar part that holds the ignition cylinder called? In case I can't get one at the junk yard and I need to order it.
@@0001D-t3e Thanks for Ralph taking the time to tell others, the right way to do it.
Wow, Thanks for this. We were mystified about how to fit this through when we took everything apart the other day. Disassemble the pigtail harness! Hot damn.