Ever hear of renaissance wax? I know a gun guy that owns many guns and has tried almost every lubricant/oil/grease, solvent/cleaner, CLP, rust inhibitor and anything else you can imagine... and he actually recommends renaissance wax as a coating. You just apply it with a cloth and then rub it in and wipe it off and it forms a barrier on the outside that is supposed to completely stop rust, so the guns don't have to be cleaned, oiled and maintained just while sitting in the safe. I have seen MANY really good, nice, expensive and even stainless firearms rust to destruction from being left in a safe for years without proper maintenance (oil). He says that it completely stops the rust from forming and also that the coating left on the steel is so thin that it doesn't interfere with the action or how the parts fit together or anything like that. The only thing I don't like about it is that it can make any gun look like it has a high gloss finish and I don't think they make a matte finish kind of the wax. Never tried it myself, but I've only ever heard good things about it. I just think Cerakote (H-series and especially the E-series) coatings are the best rust/corrosion protections that exist though... but the renaissance wax if far cheaper, much easier to apply, 1 can lasts a lifetime and it also doesn't change the color of your gun. Forgive the rant. Just thought it was worth mentioning in case you like trying new things like that and/or if anyone else that reads the comments does.
Not bad, I've seen people heat up bolts and dip them in oil that coats them and technically heat treat them in a way. Leaves a black coating also might be less cost in that vs EPI stuff don't know what's more durable
Just wish you would show what sealer and the numbers on the other bottles, so I still have to research because I lost the directions for my sample kit. Good video but I wish you held up the bottle so I can see if that is what I have in stock.
Did the smell ever go away? I remember blueing one of my old matcos, so used all of the chrome had disappeared thought I'd give it a makeover. Then my toolbox stank to high heaven I just keep it in a bag from now on
Thanks for the video. I am restoring an old ATV and have ripped it all apart. While having everything painted I decided I want no chrome on the ATV. I rattle canned the heads of the hardware including all nut and misc parts. Question is that now that the hardware is painted can the process still be used? And if spray paint can suitably be used after the blackening process. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the video. Was hoping you were going to do the sheet metal storage container. Found your video because while I was looking for the Insta Blak 333, I'm actually going to try the process with Brownells Oxpho-Blue again but with the e-prep in the process. Looks like the main chemicals are the same in Oxpho and 333...
I have nothing to report as of yet. The items I blackened will either see little to no use, or extremely rough exposure to harsh chemicals. It's all holding up well so far though.
The 148E, 333, and 258 can be stored safely in a plastic container. I would store the E-Tec 503 in a glass or steel container. The E-Tec 503 can degrade the plastic. As shown in the video you can use a plastic container to process the parts. When you are finished I would pour the E-Tec 503 back into the steel container it came in.
A non-ferrous metal is any metal that isn't iron (or if you want to count alloys as metals, then you can include any alloy that doesn't have iron in it). The word "ferrous" comes from the Latin "ferrum," which means iron.
Ever hear of renaissance wax? I know a gun guy that owns many guns and has tried almost every lubricant/oil/grease, solvent/cleaner, CLP, rust inhibitor and anything else you can imagine... and he actually recommends renaissance wax as a coating. You just apply it with a cloth and then rub it in and wipe it off and it forms a barrier on the outside that is supposed to completely stop rust, so the guns don't have to be cleaned, oiled and maintained just while sitting in the safe. I have seen MANY really good, nice, expensive and even stainless firearms rust to destruction from being left in a safe for years without proper maintenance (oil). He says that it completely stops the rust from forming and also that the coating left on the steel is so thin that it doesn't interfere with the action or how the parts fit together or anything like that. The only thing I don't like about it is that it can make any gun look like it has a high gloss finish and I don't think they make a matte finish kind of the wax. Never tried it myself, but I've only ever heard good things about it. I just think Cerakote (H-series and especially the E-series) coatings are the best rust/corrosion protections that exist though... but the renaissance wax if far cheaper, much easier to apply, 1 can lasts a lifetime and it also doesn't change the color of your gun. Forgive the rant. Just thought it was worth mentioning in case you like trying new things like that and/or if anyone else that reads the comments does.
Not bad, I've seen people heat up bolts and dip them in oil that coats them and technically heat treat them in a way. Leaves a black coating also might be less cost in that vs EPI stuff don't know what's more durable
Great video. I like all of yours so far. Hey can you tell me about the tool kit ? what make ? I would like to try and find one. Thank you.
What do you think of using this process to blacken a rusty old cast iron teapot? To be used for decoration only.
Just wish you would show what sealer and the numbers on the other bottles, so I still have to research because I lost the directions for my sample kit. Good video but I wish you held up the bottle so I can see if that is what I have in stock.
Did the smell ever go away? I remember blueing one of my old matcos, so used all of the chrome had disappeared thought I'd give it a makeover. Then my toolbox stank to high heaven I just keep it in a bag from now on
Thanks for the link. They actually sell just enough for touch ups!
Are you letting the parts dry after rinsing with water? Looks like you do when doing the Insta Blak 333….
Thank You 😁
Thanks for the video. I am restoring an old ATV and have ripped it all apart. While having everything painted I decided I want no chrome on the ATV. I rattle canned the heads of the hardware including all nut and misc parts. Question is that now that the hardware is painted can the process still be used? And if spray paint can suitably be used after the blackening process. Thanks in advance!
Can my old revolver be black oxide coated?
Does it protect against rust?
Wonder if this is a viable way to sort out the worn PVD coating on some of my watches? Obviously the PVD would have to be stripped off first.
that can be used for metals with chromium?
Thanks for the video. Was hoping you were going to do the sheet metal storage container. Found your video because while I was looking for the Insta Blak 333, I'm actually going to try the process with Brownells Oxpho-Blue again but with the e-prep in the process. Looks like the main chemicals are the same in Oxpho and 333...
Any update on how well that little wrench you use for work has been holding up? I’ve got an old set of SK wrench’s I’ve been looking into doing.
It has started to rust a bit, which isn't surprising considering the nasty oxidizers we use at work. Still far better than if left untreated.
Hi Mark, I have brass hardware on my kitchen cabinets. I want to blacken them. Would EPI work on brass?
No. This is for steel. There are kits for non ferrous.
Birchwood casey makes a blackening kit for brass.
how is the durability of this product? looking to do some impact sockets and a few ratchets.
I have nothing to report as of yet. The items I blackened will either see little to no use, or extremely rough exposure to harsh chemicals. It's all holding up well so far though.
@@PhillipsHomeRepair How about now?
So, were you able to store the chemicals successfully?
So far, so good, though I haven’t tried using them again. But at least they aren’t melting the containers.
The 148E, 333, and 258 can be stored safely in a plastic container. I would store the E-Tec 503 in a glass or steel container. The E-Tec 503 can degrade the plastic. As shown in the video you can use a plastic container to process the parts. When you are finished I would pour the E-Tec 503 back into the steel container it came in.
Any word on how long the chemicals stay viable? The expiration date is only a few months from purchase. Is that a BS number ? Thanks guys
How durable is it?
So far, so good. The parts I did for work are starting to rust through, but they are exposed to way harsher chemicals than most people encounter.
I have always been taught that nonferrous metal was never to be used in any clinical blacking process. Although not a bad job
Thank you for the video! I was wondering can you paint it after that process?
Probably not if the sealer has been applied, as it's kind of oily.
I want chamical
I need to do this business upload the video
"It's black metal time" lml
non-ferrous metals include aluminum, copper, lead, nickel, tin, titanium and zinc, and alloys such as brass.
A non-ferrous metal is any metal that isn't iron (or if you want to count alloys as metals, then you can include any alloy that doesn't have iron in it). The word "ferrous" comes from the Latin "ferrum," which means iron.