Commodore 64 DIY Cheap & Sexy Power Supply PSU | see description
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2018
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🍟 ON TODAY'S MENU: See disclaimer below. In this episode I attempt to solve one of the biggest Commodore 64 conundrums; the power supply brick. They're either dangerous, expensive, hard to make, or ugly... until now. My plug and play $30 outcome using no power tools uses only 12.3% of the cable's rated potential and has been up for some time now and I'll be testing the new PSU regularly, reporting any changes here (none so far).
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UPDATE
🕹 I have been testing it with a load since. I tested it unloaded in the video to make sure there were no major issues before plugging in. It has been running one week with load and no problems! **The extension cord that I used is rated as follows:
- 13 amperes (I believe I am drawing 3A or 23%)
- 125 volts (I believe I am drawing 14V or 11%)
- 1625 watts (I believe I am drawing 42W or 3%)
- UL listed
- 16 Gauge
- Label photos: goo.gl/3Ygdti
- Therefore as an average I am using just 12.3% of the cord's rated potential. Your results may vary of course.
OBLIGATORY DISCLAIMER (1/28/18)
🕹️ I am not an electrical engineer or expert. This unit has not been certified or tested to codes or standards (although it uses 4 branded, rated, certified parts from trusted retailers.) Do not try this at home. If you do try this it is at your own risk. I am not responsible for your decision to copy this idea or any damages or outcomes of that action. Please see description where I really drill into the safety facts of this idea. Kthxbai.
WITH THANKS
🕹 Ray Carlsen Wall-Wart PSU: goo.gl/6Kdnfh
🕹 Jan Beta PSU: • Building a DIY C64 Pow...
🕹 Filker USB PSU: goo.gl/Nrkzzx
🕹 Greisis Workbench PSU: • GWB#1 - Commodore 64 /...
🕹 PSU Wiki: www.c64-wiki.com/wiki/Power_S...
🕹 Sam's Journey: www.knightsofbytes.games/sams...
*These affiliate links help support this channel - Наука та технологія
Great idea! I watched this- and then I thought... "if I take the outer cases off the components, and hard wire them, they'll be smaller". So then I thought... "they'll be small enough to fit inside the original C64 PSU housing!". Thanks for the inspiration!
Tim Barnett So then I thought, that's some next level thinking! Good luck! Thanks.
How did you empty out the old PSU? From what I understand, the components were essentially cemented in.
I didn't empty it at all. I just removed the cable.
@@RetroRecipes I was talking to Tim.
@Mr Guru Can you tell us all more exactly how you did this?
Yes, a lot of people frown upon the use of a USB charger adapter -- it is fair to be skeptical about the quality of the internal components. However, as you clearly stated (as does Ray Carlsen) this is a down and dirty economical C64 PSU that is perfectly usable under most conditions. I think it looks great -- that enclosure is gorgeous, especially with the Commodore case badge. Hopefully, this PSU operates well for you for a long time.
MindFlareRetro As long as you know the USB supply is good it isn't a problem.
It's worth mentioning, too, that USB power dongles are just that: power supplies. That's it. Despite the fact that everyone calls them "chargers", they're not. The charge is in the phone or any other USB-charged device. That's a big reason that USB is able to be a universal charging plug.
Great project! I've been panicking about my original power supply killing my C64 ever since I found out it was a thing. This video inspired me to undertake a similar project myself and now I have a working replacement PSU that I can be far more confident won't randomly kill my machine :) Thanks Perifractic!
Thanks for watching! Let me know what you think below!
UPDATE
🕹 I have been testing it with a load since. I tested it unloaded in the video to make sure there were no major issues before plugging in. It has been running one week with load and no problems! **The extension cord that I used is rated as follows:
- 13 amperes (I believe I am using 3A or 23%)
- 125 volts (I believe I am using 14V or 11%)
- 1625 watts (I believe I am using 42W or 3%)
- UL listed
- 16 Gauge
- Label photos: goo.gl/3Ygdti
- Therefore as an average I am using just 12.3% of the cord's rated potential. Your results may vary of course.
OBLIGATORY DISCLAIMER (1/28/18)
🕹️ I am not an electrical engineer or expert. This unit has not been certified or tested to codes or standards (although it uses 4 branded, rated, certified parts from trusted retailers.) Do not try this at home. If you do try this it is at your own risk. I am not responsible for your decision to copy this idea or any damages or outcomes of that action. Please see description where I really drill into the safety facts of this idea. Kthxbai.
With a modern and reasonably efficient PSU, the C64 is probably pulling much less than an amp from the 110V extension cord. The currents will be higher on the 12V and 5V lines though. You can almost say that the voltage conversion trades voltage for current.
So let's do some quick math. Google told me that the C64 itself uses about 16W. Assuming that the bulk of it is at the 5V line, and ignoring the 9V line altogether, we can calculate (using Ohm's law and Joule's law) that the C64 draws 16W / 5V = 3.2A from the 5V line
Let's say that the PSU is 80% efficient. Then it needs 16W / 0.8 = 20W from the mains in order to output 16W.
Which means that the PSU draws 20W / 110V = 0.18A from the wall.
If we want to include the 9V line, we need to break things up into smaller pieces, but the end result will be pretty similar so I'm not gonna bother with that. Btw, to say that something "draws 14V" does not make sense. The load draws (and thereby controls) the current, but the voltage is being "pushed" (and thereby controlled) by the power source.
Thanks for the comprehensive info and correction on my wording. I've replaced "drawing" with "using". 🕹️
You don't need a second transformer at all. You just need to have a 5V regulator to produce a second rail at 5v.
The Spectrum did this internally using a 7805 voltage regulator, but there are far more efficient switching regulators these days.
It is, however, worth noting that when dealing with power supplies, you are messing about with Mains level voltages, and as a general rule I would discourage this.
Hey mate any chance of getting you to make me one and one for the 1541-II with that will be ready to use out of the box in Australia?
I'm very sorry much though I'd love to I just don't have the time. Feel free to follow my ideas though 👍🕹️
This is the second time I've used your video to make a new PSU, but this time it was for the CD32 and it works excellently! Thank you again for this amazing video!
Great! You're welcome!
Thank you for this! I just put one of these together tonight to fix my C64 black screen (as a starting point for a reliable PSU). I used a different 5v PS, but the specs matched. It doesn't fit in the case because it's bigger, but the entire thing worked perfectly and my C64 is back to life with no other issues. You and Jan are the best for this!
Brilliant! Happy it helped! 👍🕹️
Who is Jan?
@@saganandroid4175 Jan Beta
Despite obviously a very early video of yours Christian, it's very much in the spirit and ethos of Retro Recipes. These really help everyone understand the basics and have a good chuckle in the meantime 😃. From an Englishman in New Zealand to an Englishman in the States.
Thank you for your kind words! Means a lot 👍🕹️
A few years ago, when people on the Lemon64 forum were talking about using two wall-warts as replacement power supplies, I proposed pretty much this same thing. Slap the two of them together in a box and run the cables out each end. My suggestion was met with predictions of fire and catastrophe.
Ahahaha, so far... So gooood! 🔥🌋👍
I actually rebuilt mine into the brick itself - On one end it has an IEC inlet for mains power, and on the other, an XLR socket for the C64 and a cb radio mic socket for the 1541-II. Inside is a 12/5V switcher for the FDD, and a 5V 2A switcher for the c64, along with a 9V AC transformer. The IEC even has a switch so you can turn the revamped brick off when not using the C64. I did use a small drill bit to drill some ventilation holes in the case so the switchers can breathe - about 20 2mm holes keeps them from getting too toasty.
The best channel, really good, very hard to describe. Smart in minimum details, unique.
This video helped me make a wall wart version power supply!
I built one of these though not as pretty as yours. Works great! I may make another one and make nice enclosures for both. Thanks for the step by step video.
Nice work like always cool that you humor to do that I appreciate, and no deep-fried chips more.
Yup, several years ago, at the Lemon64 forum, there was an engineering guy named Eslapion who sold self-made power supplies online & when one buyer opened one that he bought, he found basically the same thing, two different retail off-the-shelf wallwarts put together. It became an outrage & the engineer had to defend himself. It is quirky, but when you look at it, it does make sense & here you are doing the same thing as if it was normal.
One of my favourite C64 games also :) Thanks for sharing the process. Our sockets and power ratings are different here but there's enough information there to reproduce it with that in mind.
I just found this channel, and good stuff, I'll have to give this a shot when I have the extra time, as I have most everything laying around my shop except the project box. :-)
Commodorefan64 Thanks! I can't imagine why you like this channel CommodoreFan64! 😉
Well done! I've got two Commodore power supplies lying around that I'm a bit scared to use, so I'm glad I found this. Now I just need to get around to fixing my faulty color ram.
I have a video video that too 😉🕹️
Perifractic's Retro Recipes You're a fountain of knowledge, my friend. Thank you!
It's probably been mentioned 43 times already, but you could always shuck the wall wart and solder the input mains leads directly to the board inside, rather than plugging - since this thing's going to always be inside it's own case anyway. You could even do that with the USB but since it's much smaller this would be less necessary.
This is a great project and looks awesome, thanks for doing this.
Thank you so much! That means a lot to me. 👍🕹️
Thank you! I followed your steps and worked perfectly.
Awesome video. Thanks! I picked up an "untested" c64 some time back but never did much with it. I got a Keyrah v2b and used it with a Pi running VICE for a very short period of time, but then The C64 Maxi came out and I shelved that project. I've picked up a "working" C64C but I realize the power supply is a ticking time bomb. I bought a Keelog PSU and if both machines work, I may build a PSU like this for the second one (or buy another Keelog - at $45 they really aren't that much more expensive than this homemade one).
You're my hero. I love this solution. You have something cheap and good looking and you know exactly how it works!
Cheers!
fun fact.
my friends turtle would sleep/stay on top of the c64 psu!
Great video and project. I'm in the process of building two new power supplies, and I like this version.
Thanks! Good luck with your build
"Nearly took my eye out with that!" Totally something that would have happened to me, except I *would* have. I would have had to bleep out the cursing!
Those power bricks have been the bane of 8 bit computers since the eighties. Even the Amiga had its share of "iffy" power bricks (A500, etc) that could _barely_ handle the unit by itself, let alone with any peripherals attached.
Excellent idea and great video!
Thank you so much! That means a lot to me. 👍🕹️
Awesome work!
Great job !!!👍
Great video as always. I will make one for my C64 too. I will opt for solder and heat shrink on the internal connections as I have found the butt connectors someone unreliable especially with very small gauge wire that is found in USB cables. Thanks again for great inspiration. :)
Nice choice of enclosure, it really suits the style of the C64! For cable connections without the use of a soldering iron, I recommend so called heat shrink solder sleeves/splices. They can be used to create waterproof solder connections and were used in the aerospace industry for many years. All you need is a lighter or a heat gun. The adhesive on both ends of the sleeves act as water barriers and strain reliefs. The solder in the middle is easily meltable with a lighter. There's nothing wrong with butt splices, but I just prefer soldered connections and it might be an useful addition for future projects. ;-) Anyway, keep up the good work! 👍
Thanks! Yes I just came across them. Nice solution. 👍🕹️
Very interesting indeed, even though I don't even have a Commodore 64. I can see this kind of solution working for other vintage computers and consoles! For example my ZX Spectrum has two power packs (wall warts), one for the computer and one for the picture. Having all that in one box with just one power switch would be cool :D
Nice job! A fuse isn't going to protect a C64 against overvoltage anyway.
Your "soak test" isn't going to test all that much without a load. I guess it's better than nothing.
I would have wrapped the wall-wart/plug assembly with silicone tape, to prevent any separation over time. If things loosen up, you could get resistance, heat, and eventual failure.
Solid ideas Dave. Thanks for taking the time to comment 👍🕹️ That one is still my main PSU after 2 years, but if and when I reopen it I’ll be sure to do that. Cheers!
You could have just tied a simple knot on the AC cable on the inside of the box to keep it from pulling. Good work - I think I'm going to try this as well.
Agreed. This one is perfect for the task: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Figure-eight_knot
Hi, Love the show. Have you got an update to this? Like one year on and still consistent voltages and no errors or anomalies with the C64?
Yup still perfect and I feature it in occasional videos still 👍🕹️
Thanks for the suggestion, I have just implemented this solution with a unused usb charger 5v1w and a 9ac transformer bought on aliexpress for 4 euro. Plus the 3d printed commodore power supply chassis it costed me 10 euro total and it works like a charm. I disassembled the components so it's very small and cute.
Heh! This is great! I also started building a new PSU for my C64 before stumbling upon this, and bought the same Jameco 9V wall wart. Instead of a USB wart, tho, I'm using a Mean Well 5V switcher (also acquired from Jameco). I was originally going to use a 7pin DIN jack on the PSU case, and a 7pin DIN cable (like the sort used with B&O hi-fi systems), but I like the idea of using the original cable and strain relief and, yah, it's not like I'm ever going to use the original PSU again!
Really sexy! Looks super good! Congratulations for this nice self made power supply 👍👍👍!
I've heard of super small over-voltage protection circuits that might fit in the case to add just that extra bit of protection. I do love that case you put on there since it is so wide open. I use a simple exterior fan to blow cool air across some of my more heat prone power bricks to keep them cooled off (a reply to those who are warning of heat buildup) and that trick might work for this one to add just that extra bit of protection. Loved the build video and the attention you gave to the entire process. I do think I would make one change which would be to use a small bus block to connect the tinned leads and glue/bond the block to the bottom of case at an opportune spot - It would allow easy swap of components without having to cut those butt-connectors.
Thanks for your kind words and tips! 👍🕹️
Something like small 5volt cpu coolers, hmm yeah but both power suppliers have their own individual plastic covers, you wont get any air flow to the internals unless you make them "naked"
Absolutely true on the naked part - I would go for a transformer on a open circuit board. Would be interesting to test that theory with a homemade smoke generator / wind tunnel. All I know is I've managed to cool my gear by putting fans right on the devices and blowing air into / onto them and saw a cooling down of the device in question even with the devices encased in plastic. I did consider those tiny fans you mentioned to get it right on the heat producing elements in the case - It just comes down to what you are willing to do to get extra cooling. I'll test my bricks with a thermal sensor to see if I can get any meaningful data to at least provide something to prove my case. I got my idea of using the fans from having to cool Vaxes down in my old IT days when we had air conditioning failures and blowing air into my old 11/780 sure did the trick when you needed to keep them going no matter what - lol.
HAHA yeah, Never had a heat problem with anything up to Pentium. Even back in 93 one of the ladies that sat a few seats away form me at word had a trouble some computer ( at best would have been a 486dx or Pentium 50/60/100 etc ) , it would reboot every 2 hours or so, the fix was to remove the "U" shaped cover. It ran OK , but she could not use it as a foot rest anymore. Fast forward to 1997-2003 when in summer the Server would reboot all due to the extra strain of email and summer heat, again that was striped down and a $20 K-mart pedestal fan mounted in front of it. Except running 24/7 the cheap fans only last 3-6 months. To be honest i think P4 was a real heat sink ,well yeah the CPU's use over 65watts alone and the collection of hard drives would chew power, but i think the other main reason is the clutter of Floppy and IDE cables, SATA is so thin and even with no cable management you still get good air flow, i Think Apple and Dell and HP realised this as the P4 servers ( and Apples Power PC ) were given extra fans and were very noisy. I still have a G4 Ibook Power PC processor, while it is very quiet as it is low powered i keep it for old period System 6 to 7 games.
Yeah so re the power brick, would be easy enough to remove the covers and cool
Thank you for the cool video! I was wondering if you think the same concept could be used for the Amiga 500 psu? don’t want to have to pull out a multimeter every time I boot.
Did some more looking, and an Atx seems the way to go, but it is not sexy haha. Still a kick ass video! Thanks again
A fantastic project to be sure! I am surprised you didn't elect to paint the off-white top either black or commodore 64 beige. It is attractive as-is though, especially with the Commodore badge on it. That was a very nice accent.
I like the simplistic design (because I am making one too now at it is not simple lol). Regarding the miniature one you showed at the start is from Lasilla's blog. It is fine only for C64C short motherboards. And regarding fuses, the usb charger is fused, and most likely the wall wart too :)
Thanks for your feedback sir, and for watching. I didn't know that about the USB charger. That's great!
(Still hoping to buy one of your C64 Savers 😉)
Sorry, stopped making them a while ago. Working on an open source version. :)
That's great! Though, I just loved the way yours looked with that plastic over the metal. If you ever find a spare, you have a customer here 😊👍🕹️
Thanks for the compliment. After starting working half a year ago, I found that I had to stop doing them since they are very time consuming (because of the tinyness) and also I want to work on other projects. Will keep you in mind, but can't promise anything.
Don't listen to those prudes and worry about the "that's what she said jokes." I can't imagine anybody under the age of 75 being offended. I've heard worse innuendos in Disney films and they do it because they know kids won't get it anyhow. 😎
Lol
It is striking to me how the comment police like to try to put us all in our socially acceptable places... I agree - If the prudes can't handle it, they need to go read the First Amendment... lol.
For that final step regarding what else do to....you needed to pour a glob of epoxy all over it so it will start to oooze out of the vents. Seeexy. Yeahhhh.
Some versions of the C64 power supply are not potted inside, so the components haven't been cooking themselves to death and they're easy to work on; I have a couple of these. Even though the 5 volt regulator was working on both of mine, I did replace them with good quality 5 volt switching power adapters (not cheapo USB ones) as a preventative measure. I left the original 9 VAC transformers in place - there's not much to go wrong with those. Works great, runs cool, and looks original.
Nice!
Nice compact design. For long testing the PSU should be loaded. It is no wonder it stays cool without load. I test all my original PSUs by drawing 1.5A from the 5V line and follow the voltage with a multimeter and ripple with an oscilloscope. SMPS sources (like the 5V USB one) tend to give worse ripple with higher current and higher temperature.
I plan to put a cap across the output of the Mean Well 5V supply I'm using for mine.
Great Video. Even though my original C64 PSU is putting out perfect voltages, I will still be making one of these myself. Because, like you said, "It's not IF the PSU will fail, but WHEN. So Why risk it?"
29:45 Hurray! It's now officially counterfeit :D
slowly working my way through your video's during this Corona virus thing, hope you don't mind!
Hmm let me think about th- nope! Don't mind at all!
C64ever/Commodore4ever makes some pretty snazzy power bricks . Even a brick that can power your C= and a drive at the same time
it is a great DIY project. i would use something to screw the adapters.
i think that are called thermo shrinkable here those plastic butts.
Im actually using an NES and PSP Y adapter for my C64, as both are isolated so if either part goes only that rail dies
Ray Carlsen built MY C=64 power supply. both cords on same side of case, a 5v AND 9v LED (that 9V LED by request). He STILL kept the price under $100 AND he shipped it to me the same method I shipped his money order (1 - day express signature pak).
Yep he's great!
The thought just occurred to me your electric bills must be massive
0:07 we see some of your chips were heatsinked, Peri. Your Amazon list seems to show other, smaller heatsinks. What heatsinks did you use in your personal C64?
I believe those were originally from retroleum.co.uk but the Amazon ones are more versatile as you can use 3 or 4 depending on the length of the chip, and when stacked side by side they look like one long heatsink anyway.
Great Idea ! 👍
Buen trabajo👍!!!
First thought I had - why don't you use the "Vice Grip" pliers to clamp the splice thingys instead of the other one?
e5frog Ahh the benefit of hindsight!
I think I would prefer the cables to be different colors, that way it'll be more difficult for me to pick up the wrong end. Can't say the number of times I pick up the end that plugs into whatever device the cable is for when I'm trying to plug it into the wall or vice versa.
I`m going to make one, so thank you for the video but a Silly question but on the plug there are two 9v pins and the 9v power supply has a + and - lead?? which one goes to which pin?
I definitely need this! And even taking a look at @bwack's C64 Saver V2, not sure if it's a good idea to run that in conjunction with this kind of setup. However I do need a PSU for my C64 and something like this is genius!
I’m sorry if you have mentioned this elsewhere and I missed it, but who created the Commodore badge for the power supply? It’s a really lovely piece…
I suspect you have use the same outfit for other badges in other videos. 😎
Thanks, I found that on eBay. Just search for Commodore logo badge and you'll find what's available today 👍🕹️
Great idea ! 2 questions regarding this cool creation :
1. I can't seem to find a reference (or even a name) for this dual white plug you're using to connect both ac/adapter. Any clue where to find an EU model of this?
2. I have a breadbin psu laying around, does these older models came also drowned into epoxy too? It would be cool to use this case for such project.
Keep on your great channel!
Hi!
1. Not possible in EU. All I have is in the description.
2. They're usually all drowned in epoxy.
Thank you for your kind words! Means a lot 👍🕹️
@@RetroRecipes 2. I can now confirme they are. And i can also confirm that even carefully, it's impossible to remove without (massive) damage...
I would have removed the cases from the wall warts to help with heat dissipation, and once you do that it opens the option of soldering the cables directly and bypassing point of failures like the USB connector and all those butt connectors. Thanks for the video!
Thank you. I really like your music too. I assume you are creating that all with the Commodore? :).
Some of it! Check out perifractic.com/music 👍🕹️
This video came along at the perfect time! I am curious if this would work OK with a Vic-20? I just dug my childhood Vic-20 out of the attic at my parents house and the power supply is definitely dead. This looked like a great option for me, but just wanted to make sure it would supply enough current.
Yes, the C64 and VIC-20 PSUs are interchangeable, so it should work just fine. Mine is still 100%! Good luck and I'm glad this helped.
Outstanding! Thanks again for making it... I'm off to make some purchases.
Would it be possible to somehow dissolve the content (I have no idea what that is) of the original brick and flush it out, so you could use it to build another one like this? Perhaps even strip the plastic casings of the new ones to make them smaller and fit better?
Unfortunately that resin does not dissolve and will still be here long after humanity has dissolved from the face of the Earth
You may want to take a look a this: ua-cam.com/video/Fej_3XbufRA/v-deo.html - I found it accidentally. It may help you save those brick skins for later use since you've became that good in building new insides for them :D
Oh, I meant to ask, where did you get the case? If you gave a part number, I missed it. I'm using a metal one which I'm quite fond of in my builds, but there are times that plastic fits the bill, and that's definitely a nice looking one.
ottumland Sure, just see description below the video 👍🕹️
Oh goodness....there it all is! Thanks!
Oh yes...Hammond. They sure are proud of their cases, aren't they? Still love the case. The price...not so much!
I'm late to the game, but great idea! Is there any problem not using a normal extension cord instead of a three pin cord like what comes with the C64 supply originally?
No because the power adapters I'm using don't have an Earth plug, just as USB chargers don't.
Yeah, I know they don't but I mean how mush risk does the the overall removal of the that ground pose? I'm guessing it's not much as my Atari 800 XL doesn't have one, but I have seen some other models with them.
There is zero risk. We're talking about a machine that uses 5 & 9 volts. There are other replacement PSUs that also are only 2 pin, including one by Ray Carlsen, former licensed Commodore repair guy. 👍🕹️
Awesome! I may have to have a go at this!! Thanks again!
17:14 The best :))))
Just saw this 18months after the post. It's great, simple lateral thinking. Is that what lateral thinking is? I hope so. What a neat and professional result. Now that you have been sent the 3D printed case you might think of soldering the connections. I worry about possible voltage drop across those crimped ones. Too picky? Too neurotic? Too OCD? Probably all of them :-) Cheers.
Thanks! The acid test seems to be that it works great, and as you say I've been using it for a while now 😉👍🕹️ I'll take lateral thinking, sure. Cheers!
Commodore Warrior Imortal
Where could I buy the tip that plugs into the C64? I don't have an old power supply to take it from.
See the description of my how to wire din plugs video
@@RetroRecipes fantastic, thanks!
would this work with a VIC-20? the later models that use the DIN connector.
Awesome video!! Is this power supply still in use?
Thanks! Yup it's my main one 👍🕹️
I'd rather gut out the original power block and have someone put a breadboard together which has one power input and gives two outputs that allow you to hook the commodore cord to. But, I know why you made the video & thank you for it.
Nice, but I am missing the original PSU to cannibalize.
I'm going to try to do this. Last night I found a 9v 1a transformer from a set of old speakers I don't use (and apparently will never use again lol). I just need to see if the USB chargers I have, have a high enough amperage rating. I just bought a C64 (with no cables at all) off ebay. While I mostly want to make it an ultimate 64, I kind of want to see if I can get the original up and running too. Since I don't have a pre-existing PSU I'm going to need to get a new DIN and cable to go with it.
Good luck!
How did it go?
@@jamesc2327 lol in the end it worked, but I screwed it up big time. I bought a MIDI cable. It fit the power connector perfectly. The wires were super thin. As a result the stand alone C64 was getting 4.5v. A little low, but it works. When I used my U2+ cartridge, it dropped down to 3.5v (but I didn't know this for a while). So the computer was super glitchy. Its' incredible it ran at all. 3.5v is below spec. I replaced the PLA and the color ram before finding out that the voltaged dropped that much. I replaced the MIDI cable......and perfect. It works great now.
Simpler = lazier, that's right up my street.
Where did you order your Commodore badge? Great look.
fleaBay!
The new PSU is also likely to consume a little less power, at least on the 5V end.
We can actually design a simple circuit using a 12V PSU and two linear regulators. They will get a little hot but nothing that a passive heatsink wouldn't fix. And it would be pretty simple. You could even integrate a transformer and DC converter into the unit with two or three more components. Then a brand new PSU about the same size as the old one. And you can fit all inside the old case.
Great solution! Waiting for some videos like this! ;)
Naparovitse Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! Part 2 coming soon!
Where did you get the Commodore branding strip?
I think eBay
Maybe something new not available way back (ie 3 years) is the USB cable that upconverts the USB 5V to a 9V/1 or even 2A output (the USB 5V must be at least >2A capable). They are about $8-15AUD. It would make it so that only 1 (2 output) USB adapter is needed for both 5 and 9V. Also maybe no box would be required but only a spliced DIN going to 2 USB 5V sockets. Just a thought.
Should also say that a 12V upconverter for a 5V USB is also available. I have an old machine that requires 5V and 12V, but consumes little power which it might work for.
Cool! Do you have a link to what you mean? Remember also that one is AC and the other is DC so unless it also converts that, 2 may still be needed.
@@RetroRecipes Sorry yy mistake - not AC, only 9V and 12V DC.
Was thinking of 3D printing the power-supply housing rather than spending $25 on this admittedly pretty project box here. Does anyone have any models that they would suggest?
I'm not sure I get this as I purchased Ray Carlsens PSU for both the C64 AND 1541-II. BOTH are simple designs using off-the-shelf style Products. The C64 PSU uses 2 Wall Warts. Are we to assume Ray Carlsen has put me in harms way with my C64 PSU? Cause it's my MAIN C64 right now. And Golan, nice Emulator improv speech at the last TPUG meeting.
Regards, Mark.
I think his solution seems safe. people's concerns with mine were the heat dissipation caused by the case and adding an extension cord to the equation.
I have ALL my items on Power Cords or Power Bars as they provide power protection and in many cases I have a UPS connected to items I need Line Conditioning for or Backup Power like Modems and Routers.
Maybe a Candy Apple Red Metallic Coloured Power Supply Box would've won some more over?
-Mark.
I think all the 9V AC powers is the cassette drive if you have that. But I think it also uses the 60 Hz of that AC line to trigger the 60 Hz "jiffie" clock interrupt. Been a long time since I looked at the schematic.
And SID
Yep. I just went down the 64 Wiki rabbit hole and saw that!
I don't think this is that bad. It may not meet FCC regulations but the risk is minuscule and purely theoretical as far as I can see....compared to simply using two wall-warts to power any other device. My only two concerns...
1) Does it create a "floating ground" issue that people talk about where if you touch the rear connectors you could discharge enough voltage to kill the 64.
2) Does using a cheap switch-mode PSU cause interference in the C64 video output? (I tried powering a 1541-II with a cheap external HDD PSU and it worked but it caused terrible interference on the C64 video.)
Thanks!
1) Hmm, why would it do that? As a rule it's best not to touch those connectors anyway.
2) No interference! 😊
Damien Retro
Can't you connect the two PSUs' grounds together? Or will this fry them?
The 9V one is AC and doesn't seem to have an output ground per se. It's probably just an isolated transformer in a plastic box. And the 5V supply should be safe unless it stinks. Don't buy the cheapest, shittiest phone PSUs you can find. There are tons of reviews on UA-cam, so there's really no excuse to not get a decent one.
"The 9V one is AC and doesn't seem to have an output ground per se"
So, both cables are for current? (+ and -)
"Don't buy the cheapest, shittiest phone PSUs you can find"
I know that, I already had bad experiences with cheap PSUs.
You could juust use a 9v transformer yo get 9vac then a full bridge rrctifier and capacitor to get dc and a buck convertor or linear regulator to get 5vdc
magic pissenlit that is basically what is inside the official c64 power supply
I am currently using a voltage saver lead with my c64c...i am intending to replace the original PSU at some point.
damn I wish this video was out here before I destroyed my C64 with a power supply on the verge of failure. My plan now is to get a C64 reloaded MkII motherboard since it will replace all the RAM that was destroyed, and also make the power management easier and safer.
Sorry to hear that... You could also attempt a repair. Check out my Live Collaborative Repair attempt video for some good troubleshooting and good luck 👍🕹️
Could I source a different DIN connector in case that is broken?
Can't see why not
This comment is recent compared to the video. But you should make a lego one for the brixty four.
Does anyone know if the C128 has the same PSU "over-voltage" problem as the C64 or was it ever fixed with the new C128 power supplies? I have one C64 and two 128's that I have not used for many years now and I am considering "going back" to the good old days once again. Great video by the way as this was something that I never realized could be done without rebuilding the old supply somehow.
I haven't heard of issues with the 128 but no guarantees of course.
@@RetroRecipes Thanks for the quick reply! I appreciate it! I guess that I will have to monitor the PSU from time to time just to be sure. Be well!! 👍👍😀😀
@@arthurmann578 Yep just test with a multimeter twice a day 😅 Take care!
couldnt u use buck converters to do the same thing using laptop power supply
Where can I find the wall warts ( sorry if that's not what they're actually called) that were showed?
See description 👍🕹️
@@RetroRecipes I'm sorry I was wondering where I could find the ones that you mentioned at 3:01 I just wanted to get one like that for the meantime to test the Commodore 64 that I just bought to see if it works and if it does I was going to make a power supply like you did but I just wanted to make sure it worked before I spent so much money on the supplies needed and thank you for the help 🙂
Ray Carlsen Wall-Wart PSU: goo.gl/6Kdnfh
@@RetroRecipes thank you🙂
What are the chances of recovering a C64 thats been exposed to 10.3 volts on the 5V line? Picked up a nonworking system for $35 figured be fun to try and revive it, and when I checked the output sure as hell, it was putting out 10.3V!
Chances are good. Check all the capacitors and chips. If you're lucky only one will have fried.
Thanks for the reply. Ive heard that more often then not the ram chips get fried first, is that the case? Its a latter revision board, with only 2 ram chips on it if that helps.
That sounds right! You can piggy back new chips on top of suspected faulty chips and see if that fixes it. No soldering needed.
I would love to make something like this but the case alone cost between $38-$46 here in Canada (Digikey/Mousers)
I learned about this video from Redtube