Video just started, I have already hit the thumbs-up. You are providing a real service to people wanting to service their own vehicles. More than that, you show people what some of these jobs take and will convince many to just let you professionals do the work.
Bless you sir! We do a fair amount of fleet work at my shop. As of Monday, I'm a flat rate tech. I'm 100% sure your video just made it that the 1st time I do this kind of job, I've got some seriously pro tips to make it that much smoother and easier.
Great video. I service a fleet of these for a plumbing company and they eat through pads every 30-35k. When I do the fronts, I replace the hubs at the same time. They rust so bad here in NY, I have to hammer them off. I did this once and learned that the hub moved forward enough that it changed the air gap between the ABS sensor and the reluctor pad causing the ABS light to come at 20 mph. It was the oddest experience.
Yeah they do. Glad your finally dealing with the same crap we've been dealing with for years. Normally need discs as well. They also do rear springs for a giggle Just wait till the welding starts.. All love.
First set of rear pads on my transit only lasted ~30kmi. One thing that I think really contributed to the short life is the thing came with the worst tires of any vehicle I have ever had. My area gets snow in the winter and the traction control (brakes) was CONSTANTLY on trying to keep the rear tires from spinning. The van was absolutely useless in any low traction condition. First week I had the van I got stuck on wet grass. I switched to falken wildpeak AT tires (LT225/75/16), there was a night and day difference. Tons of traction, very little traction control engagement. After changing tires the second set of rear pads lasted ~100k miles.
I agree. I switched to 225/75/16 as well at 36k miles. I am now changing the rear rotors and pads as the process to remove the rear rotors is so dumb, there is no way I want to do it soon. I was going to just cut the rotors as at 75k miles they are ok, but no way in hell I want to do this again. What a nightmare. Pulling an axle shaft to change rotors ? Come on Ford. Stupid as stupid does. I will change the pads next time faster, probably around 125k (50k miles) and no rotors that time. The original tiny tires are horrible. The Van looks, rides and handles 10x better with the 225/75/16 Yokohama's. Not only that but the tires after 39k miles are about half way down, while the oem's were worn down at 36k. They had maybe 4k miles left in them and these have at least 30k left in them. Cost was also slightly less, but the ride and handling is much better. Noise not so much, so next time I chose a different brand.
Mine had the calipers on the wrong sides (2015 tsb). Wore down at an angle. They wear faster because computer applies higher percentage of braking to rear than most vehicles. Great video !
Mine too, I switched them and still worn out pads in 45k. Tried better pads tool. The brakes just suck. Got 230k out of suburban rears and 180k out of fronts.
Ive always thought it was so stupid to have to pull a axle or hub just to change the rotor turns a 30min job into a 4hr job on some vehicles its just crazy to me idk why they build them this way
We have a fleet of theae we take care of at work. We usually just toss some new pads on the back every 25k. We only do rotors if end be they are thick enough to get a few sets on them unless the grind the old pads in them
Do you work on any of the Transits used by Amazon contractors? It would be interesting to know what problems they come in with and how they are hold up compared to other Transits.
I always thought it was weird that the rear brakes would wear out faster on these things. You make good time these on tho that’s for sure these little vans were money when I worked flat rate at the ol stone of fire lol
They do chew thru rear brakes, its always the inboard pad that wears first! I suspect it is because of all the weight they typically are loaded down with. What's your thoughts as to why Rich? Another thing I like to do its mark the axle to hub, so I reassemble the same way.
I try to only use OE, but only work on my own vehicles. I have used non-OE and been really disappointed. Interesting they are using torque to yield bolts. With my 1992 F250 w/7.3 diesel getting harder to find OE but I still try, my local parts guys at Elk Grove Ford in CA have done well by me. Unfortunately a lot of discontinued parts on my older pickup.
Most manufacturers are into 1 use fasteners. They are probably torque to yield so they won't accidentally undo but expense.... Modern designers are wonderful 😉
Lesson i learned the hard way doing brake jobs at home, try to preserve those brake clips in case you can't get compatible replacement clips. There are plenty of places that will sell you brake pad clips but they frequently don't fit despite assertions of an OE fit. They tend to not sell it seperate from brake pads either which adds to the annoyance factor. Guide pin torque varies by vehicle but 18-20 ft pounds I found was plenty, which amounts to hand tight for most seasoned individuals. Some may even specify less like 14-15 ft pounds.
@@FordBossMe Its somone from the uk working for a taxi firm with only mondeos as fleet but they now repair other vehicles also. He is on youtube as Allen Howatt He mentioned to spray silicone behind the boot before you turn it back on the transit.
I have a couple 2020 model year transit vans, I found out the hard way that many vendors are advertising the wrong part numbers for rear brake pads. They do not use 1775, they use 2280. Rock auto has several of their rear brake pads listed wrong for this application, even Akebono manufacturer website has it wrong. 2020 model year pads are substantially larger than the 1775.
You really loose like nothing, it's what ever is right there in the end of the axle tube and that's it Pull the 3/8ths drain plug in the diff and still sitting right at the full mark
Kind of an odd comment but could you make a video about how to lift these transit vans? For some reason the lift points are so hard for me to find and the lift point guides in my shop don’t really help much either
Just curious: at 1:40 on your bench you have a caliper hanger, but you don’t use it. @MedTec67 says if you let the caliper flop you need to replace your brake hose. The hose looks fine in your vid. Do you normally use a hanger? Not trying to hate, just investigate (as a 2018 T350 3.5 owner).
The beginning of the video it was up laying on the spring I pulled it down to clean it, it has a cable attached to it as well not just hose And no you don't need to replace it that is wrong Just because it hangs doesn't mean it's bad and who ever says that it just fear mongering
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention in my previous comment that on our 2020 transits, the rear brakes wearing out quickly don’t seem to be as big of an issue as earlier models. Currently doing brakes on a 2020 with about 90,000 miles, rear pads still 3/16-1/4” of material, front pads are worn out - at wear indicator sensor. This is the FIRST brake job on this van, at nearly 90,000 miles.
I'm a firm believer in grooving up those old rotors! If you machine them and install a new set of pads, rarely will a machined rotor outlast the 2nd set of pads. Use new rotors every brake job and do your customers a big favor!
Great review of the procedure. Would it be reasonable to put a thin coat of silicone grease on those brake pad clips and where the brake pads will slide on the bracket ? Is it also reasonable to use a 3M disk on the hub/flange that the inside of the wheel will rest on ?
I did reference using some silicone grease on the part where the pads right back and forth not sure if you meant that in the video that I did reference that and you can even see it on the pads and on the back of a pan Yeah you can use an abrasive disc on the axle flange it just really wasn't that bad so I didn't do it in this
@@Garth2011 if you have to remove rust from the bracket then a little brake grease helps under the new slide hardware to slow the growth of new rust. never grease the top where the pad rides. The new hardware is polished to allow for easy sliding movement of pad. 25 years and no squeaks this way.
@@hungryjack8032 Yes, under the clips. I also heard that some caliper rust that forms is tough to get off and once in a while wire brush polishes vs. removes rust. I saw a guy use a carbide tipped file made for brake jobs and it got down to the caliper metal very quick and even/smooth. I guess it depends how detailed you want to be or how badly rusted a bracket is in combo with the customers budget.
@@Garth2011 Getting the surface even is most important. If rust is left in place making the surface uneven, the clip won't sit flush and could pinch the pad, limiting its proper movement. When working on a customers car, the extra few seconds to do the best job possible the first time will reward you later. No comebacks and a solid reputation.
Didn't need to you lose so little .... still right there at the fill mark... doesn't matter Unless it's overfilled you ain't going to lose very much you'll just a little tiny bit right there in the end cap and that's it
Does it use a different type of system for Transit's to eat brakes so fast? Caliper system looks the same as anything else, just the mounting of the rotor, and changing it for that matter are different then what I've seen. Mounting style cant change that, can it? Do the pads just always drag, never really running free?
They are proportioned to apply more rear brake so the van doesn’t nose dive. It squats more than nose dive. I have a 15, 250, 3.5EB that has been a money pit. Love the van but wow. 8 sets of tires, 8 sets of rear brakes, 6 sets of front brakes, drivers side exhaust manifold and bolts, passenger side exhaust manifold and turbo, fuel pump drive module and the dreaded drive shaft coupling every 30k miles. I replace rotors every time I replace pads. There was a TSB on the rear caliper holders on wrong side of vehicle from factory. Brakes were gone at 8k miles. It would hold brakes on a slight amount. Van weighs 8900 loaded. I love my van but maintenance has been costly.
question, for the caliper guide pin bolts theres top and bottom? because i took them out and i see the difference between those two, but i forgot which one was top and bottom. TIA
The wrong one in the wrong.hole will look off and not fit the same vs the other You have me questioning myself now, I'm trying to log into for online and it's not letting me One will fit better in one spot vs the other Gotta pay attention when doing these jobs for sure....maybe when I get to work I'll be able to log in or maybe site is down Not sure but remind me in a bit
It seems like every 14k to 20k miles, rear brakes are smoked. I found out those bolts are torque to yield for a reason I had an axel shaft and wheel come loose big whoops axel was destroyed.
Nice video, how much do all the bolts end up costing? Also if a snow storm was on it's way id rather leave the van in your heated shop than outdoors in the snow :)
I don't know what it is but these and the 11 to 19 explorers eat rear brakes like they're nothing. I wonder if they'll last longer if the slide pins and hardware are cleaned and lubricated every 5k as a maintenance item.
@@FordBossMe yeah most of the time the pads are rusted in place on the hardware. I have had several older F150s with slide pins stuck in the bracket since people either don't lubricate them when their brakes are done or they're so old they just get stuck in there.
Them mac hammers are my favorite, bought the snap ons but they do not hit near as hard. Just did them brakes and another tech told me they need them around every 30k like damn thats alot of money every 30k
Ok. So before finding these videos. I torqued new axle bolts to 50 ft lbs then went to 80. Didnt seem like needed to many degrees more to acheive this. Your opinion on this? 2020 250 srw
I bought the “euro” designed Transit instead of the defunct Econoline .. this is what I got now. Oof, pull the rear axle to replace rotors… Ooo. Watch your toes!
Do they chew up rear brakes because of the TCS and anti wind 🌬 stuff? It feels like it’s the rears that brake when the tcs goes off if swerving. But for the wind the rear brakes too?
I understand the Ford recommended replacement of those flange bolts considering location, but it's probably not needed. Better safe than sorry though, even though I'm sure most mom and pop shops that do this won't even replace them. Most OEM Ford fasteners are grade 10, which is extremely hard. What's more alarming is the SHORT lifespan of rear brakes on these. They must use the cheap junk, that's how many miles I get out of rock auto cheapo rear pads for my 2000 Explorer. Used to be the OEM that lasted 150-200K miles.
@@FordBossMe Meh, even I said better safe than sorry. I just found that to be excessive. Maybe one could do a breaking ft. pounds test to determine it. I've seen Chrysler actually reuse TTY bolts on occasion, always amazed me.
My Chevy Express had 86,000 miles and I only had to replace front pads around 70,000 I sold it at 86,000 miles and it still had the original back pads on it. Now I have a 2015 transit with 46,000 and the back pads are metal to metal.
I'm appold! Who designs a rotor that requires an axel removal to change? Why change a tried a true hub assembly (like on any 3/4 or 1 ton truck. You risk damaging an axel (what it it falls over or something) or testing a seal. I hate when a well working system is replaced with an inferior one for the sake of trying to save money (I assume)
I hate the new brake clean the EPA makes us use. Stuff is like water. And even though they say "Low VOC", the fumes are way worse because it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. It just sits around for forever stinking up where I'm working on the ground. I wish I bought cases of the good stuff before it became illegal.
I hate when I see guys tools all over the floor like that, I use to be like that before I got my service tray and man is it nice to have my cart/service table.
Don't make comments about other people's stuff Larry just he here to support me and be part of the family It's not hurting you or anyone else just keep that to yourself, it doesn't do anything for either one of us
He'll learn the hard way when his back hurts so much he can't bend over anymore. Think smart while you're young and it won'e hurt as bad when you're old.
Who could have? If your assuming I could have you'd be wrong ... I can't just order what ever I want and say ohkayyyyy here we are Company has guidelines - also when you see BLUE pads like these ( they are severe service heavy duty polices style etc etc ).
The heavy rear brake bias on this vehicle is on purpose, prevents nose diving on such a tall vehicle. Helps with stability. Currently doing brakes on a 2020 250, 85,000 miles, still serviceable material left on the rear pads. I’ve owned five of these, and I have never had a set go out as fast as a lot of people are saying… Usually somewhere in the 80+ thousand mile range before doing the first set of rear pads for us.
I have a company transit T150 that loaded up with tools and my rear pads went out at 90k but still driving with the original fronts at 133k today. It all depends on the driver and loads. I’m an easy coming to stops with the van. Overall the transit in my opinion is pretty reliable. The Wisconsin roads give it a beating.
I've got like four videos on this and nobody else complained in the comments section about learning how to do the job other than you so yeah I'm not going to take anything you say as worth anything I should be listening to or else everybody would be complaining about that
HIT THAT THUMBS UP
AINT NOBODY ELSE DOING THIS TYPE OF THING LIKE ME, I THINK I DESERVE THAT. I know My worth
Link to the discord for extra help & questions
discord.gg/9ZSYr8THb4
What are the tabs on the piston for that line up in the. Pad you turned it at end of video. Thanks for info
How about the brake wear sensor reset?
@@professional2.09 p0po0loo90000
@@hdryder1568 I did not see a rear pad sensor there. Also mine were at absolute zero and no sensor. All I heard was the noise and guessed its pad time
Love doing brakes on these things. For some reason I'm the only guy that wants to do them and they pay really good.
When I was at the dealer, they only paid standard 2 hours. Do you get more?
@@ygoteamtarox3823 I think I get 3? I tend to take 30 minutes for front and rear brakes so I end up getting a lot of hours at the end of the day.
Video just started, I have already hit the thumbs-up. You are providing a real service to people wanting to service their own vehicles. More than that, you show people what some of these jobs take and will convince many to just let you professionals do the work.
Bless you sir! We do a fair amount of fleet work at my shop. As of Monday, I'm a flat rate tech.
I'm 100% sure your video just made it that the 1st time I do this kind of job, I've got some seriously pro tips to make it that much smoother and easier.
If you need anything let me know
Great video.
I service a fleet of these for a plumbing company and they eat through pads every 30-35k. When I do the fronts, I replace the hubs at the same time. They rust so bad here in NY, I have to hammer them off. I did this once and learned that the hub moved forward enough that it changed the air gap between the ABS sensor and the reluctor pad causing the ABS light to come at 20 mph. It was the oddest experience.
Great video as always. Good to see that the Transit uses a full floating axle. I thought they were semi floating.
Yeah they do. Glad your finally dealing with the same crap we've been dealing with for years. Normally need discs as well.
They also do rear springs for a giggle
Just wait till the welding starts..
All love.
Im at 115,000 miles on my original rear rotors, had them machined and new pads at around 50,000 miles. Never touched front brakes yet.
First set of rear pads on my transit only lasted ~30kmi. One thing that I think really contributed to the short life is the thing came with the worst tires of any vehicle I have ever had. My area gets snow in the winter and the traction control (brakes) was CONSTANTLY on trying to keep the rear tires from spinning. The van was absolutely useless in any low traction condition. First week I had the van I got stuck on wet grass. I switched to falken wildpeak AT tires (LT225/75/16), there was a night and day difference. Tons of traction, very little traction control engagement. After changing tires the second set of rear pads lasted ~100k miles.
I agree. I switched to 225/75/16 as well at 36k miles. I am now changing the rear rotors and pads as the process to remove the rear rotors is so dumb, there is no way I want to do it soon. I was going to just cut the rotors as at 75k miles they are ok, but no way in hell I want to do this again. What a nightmare. Pulling an axle shaft to change rotors ? Come on Ford. Stupid as stupid does. I will change the pads next time faster, probably around 125k (50k miles) and no rotors that time. The original tiny tires are horrible. The Van looks, rides and handles 10x better with the 225/75/16 Yokohama's. Not only that but the tires after 39k miles are about half way down, while the oem's were worn down at 36k. They had maybe 4k miles left in them and these have at least 30k left in them. Cost was also slightly less, but the ride and handling is much better. Noise not so much, so next time I chose a different brand.
Mine had the calipers on the wrong sides (2015 tsb). Wore down at an angle. They wear faster because computer applies higher percentage of braking to rear than most vehicles. Great video !
Mine too, I switched them and still worn out pads in 45k. Tried better pads tool. The brakes just suck. Got 230k out of suburban rears and 180k out of fronts.
this right here is a fantastic video. thank you this helps a lot!
Great stuff as always! Also grats on getting the flood mode callout on Ray's video today
Link me
@@FordBossMe ua-cam.com/video/zqmkWC4UmH0/v-deo.html 26:35
That was interesting. I would have been hesitant in taking out axles but not now - at least on this. Thanks.
Ive always thought it was so stupid to have to pull a axle or hub just to change the rotor turns a 30min job into a 4hr job on some vehicles its just crazy to me idk why they build them this way
Doing then today on a 2020 T250, talk about fucking stupid, way to go ford!!
Great explanation. Thank you
The one kit is so frustrating. I will definitely try the pneumatic thanks for sharing.
Great video thank you for the overview 🙏
We have a fleet of theae we take care of at work. We usually just toss some new pads on the back every 25k. We only do rotors if end be they are thick enough to get a few sets on them unless the grind the old pads in them
Nice to see a conscientious master tech at work, well done 👍🏽
Great job!
Great video so detailed 👊🏻
Appreciate it!
ive done dozens of these brakes. not too much of a hassle. I had one come in where the nut was overtightened so it ate the bearings
Do you work on any of the Transits used by Amazon contractors? It would be interesting to know what problems they come in with and how they are hold up compared to other Transits.
Thanks rich 👍
I always thought it was weird that the rear brakes would wear out faster on these things. You make good time these on tho that’s for sure these little vans were money when I worked flat rate at the ol stone of fire lol
These are simple after a few times doing it. Always nice to get a decently easy 3.0 hours.
These pay 2.5hrs
.5 if the calipers need replaced each additional
They do chew thru rear brakes, its always the inboard pad that wears first! I suspect it is because of all the weight they typically are loaded down with. What's your thoughts as to why Rich? Another thing I like to do its mark the axle to hub, so I reassemble the same way.
I try to only use OE, but only work on my own vehicles. I have used non-OE and been really disappointed. Interesting they are using torque to yield bolts. With my 1992 F250 w/7.3 diesel getting harder to find OE but I still try, my local parts guys at Elk Grove Ford in CA have done well by me. Unfortunately a lot of discontinued parts on my older pickup.
Most manufacturers are into 1 use fasteners. They are probably torque to yield so they won't accidentally undo but expense.... Modern designers are wonderful 😉
Lesson i learned the hard way doing brake jobs at home, try to preserve those brake clips in case you can't get compatible replacement clips.
There are plenty of places that will sell you brake pad clips but they frequently don't fit despite assertions of an OE fit. They tend to not sell it seperate from brake pads either which adds to the annoyance factor.
Guide pin torque varies by vehicle but 18-20 ft pounds I found was plenty, which amounts to hand tight for most seasoned individuals. Some may even specify less like 14-15 ft pounds.
Use oe or better in a HD transit work van, no cheap shit
@@FordBossMe what's the lifespan for the brakes less then a year or over a year per pads? The front ones last the same or 2x longer?
@@FordBossMe the first few years those came out, the dealer was less expensive than the aftermarket.
Ford pads come with clips and most of the time are cheaper than aftermarket.
Awesomeness
What do you think about using a procut on these transit rotors, I do mobile fleet repair and want to offer that service
good information.what is the part number on tool you are using for caliper piston?
amzn.to/46jzzeN
Allan Howatt made a video on the euro transit brake pads, he mostly has videos on Mondeo Diesel repairs.
No idea who that is
@@FordBossMe Its somone from the uk working for a taxi firm with only mondeos as fleet but they now repair other vehicles also. He is on youtube as Allen Howatt He mentioned to spray silicone behind the boot before you turn it back on the transit.
@@IntradeMotors I've also said that before depending how nasty they are
I have a couple 2020 model year transit vans, I found out the hard way that many vendors are advertising the wrong part numbers for rear brake pads. They do not use 1775, they use 2280. Rock auto has several of their rear brake pads listed wrong for this application, even Akebono manufacturer website has it wrong. 2020 model year pads are substantially larger than the 1775.
Thanks
Nice video 💪🙌👍🙏
So, question. Is there such negligible gear oil loss that none is put back in or do you need to refill any of it?
You really loose like nothing, it's what ever is right there in the end of the axle tube and that's it
Pull the 3/8ths drain plug in the diff and still sitting right at the full mark
Kind of an odd comment but could you make a video about how to lift these transit vans? For some reason the lift points are so hard for me to find and the lift point guides in my shop don’t really help much either
Can you remind me in the morning
Is the 2019 Transit 350 basically the same process? Just curious
Yes
Just curious: at 1:40 on your bench you have a caliper hanger, but you don’t use it. @MedTec67 says if you let the caliper flop you need to replace your brake hose. The hose looks fine in your vid. Do you normally use a hanger? Not trying to hate, just investigate (as a 2018 T350 3.5 owner).
The beginning of the video it was up laying on the spring I pulled it down to clean it, it has a cable attached to it as well not just hose
And no you don't need to replace it that is wrong
Just because it hangs doesn't mean it's bad and who ever says that it just fear mongering
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention in my previous comment that on our 2020 transits, the rear brakes wearing out quickly don’t seem to be as big of an issue as earlier models. Currently doing brakes on a 2020 with about 90,000 miles, rear pads still 3/16-1/4” of material, front pads are worn out - at wear indicator sensor. This is the FIRST brake job on this van, at nearly 90,000 miles.
Does the pneumatic calliper tool twist in the opposite direction?
it goes both directions
thanks
Are most rear axles on fords splinned or the c clip retention style? Just curious
Yes
I'm a firm believer in grooving up those old rotors! If you machine them and install a new set of pads, rarely will a machined rotor outlast the 2nd set of pads. Use new rotors every brake job and do your customers a big favor!
Oof my rear caliper piston doesnt want to turn
Great review of the procedure. Would it be reasonable to put a thin coat of silicone grease on those brake pad clips and where the brake pads will slide on the bracket ? Is it also reasonable to use a 3M disk on the hub/flange that the inside of the wheel will rest on ?
I did reference using some silicone grease on the part where the pads right back and forth not sure if you meant that in the video that I did reference that and you can even see it on the pads and on the back of a pan
Yeah you can use an abrasive disc on the axle flange it just really wasn't that bad so I didn't do it in this
@@FordBossMe Yes...that's what I was referring to. I guess the correct term is brake caliper grease. My mechanic is picky about which brand he uses.
@@Garth2011 if you have to remove rust from the bracket then a little brake grease helps under the new slide hardware to slow the growth of new rust. never grease the top where the pad rides. The new hardware is polished to allow for easy sliding movement of pad. 25 years and no squeaks this way.
@@hungryjack8032 Yes, under the clips. I also heard that some caliper rust that forms is tough to get off and once in a while wire brush polishes vs. removes rust. I saw a guy use a carbide tipped file made for brake jobs and it got down to the caliper metal very quick and even/smooth. I guess it depends how detailed you want to be or how badly rusted a bracket is in combo with the customers budget.
@@Garth2011 Getting the surface even is most important. If rust is left in place making the surface uneven, the clip won't sit flush and could pinch the pad, limiting its proper movement.
When working on a customers car, the extra few seconds to do the best job possible the first time will reward you later. No comebacks and a solid reputation.
Check top up Diff oil as well / maybe.
Didn't need to you lose so little .... still right there at the fill mark... doesn't matter
Unless it's overfilled you ain't going to lose very much you'll just a little tiny bit right there in the end cap and that's it
@ 7:57 Do you have some kind of adapter to allow you to use that battery on that tool?
No it's a Mac impact with a DeWalt battery
They are the same DeWalt is The same as Mac and both are owned by Stanley
The traction control and stability control eat up the rear brakes on most vehicles, I change 5 rears to one front set.
Does it use a different type of system for Transit's to eat brakes so fast? Caliper system looks the same as anything else, just the mounting of the rotor, and changing it for that matter are different then what I've seen. Mounting style cant change that, can it? Do the pads just always drag, never really running free?
They just overwork these things big time
They are proportioned to apply more rear brake so the van doesn’t nose dive. It squats more than nose dive. I have a 15, 250, 3.5EB that has been a money pit. Love the van but wow. 8 sets of tires, 8 sets of rear brakes, 6 sets of front brakes, drivers side exhaust manifold and bolts, passenger side exhaust manifold and turbo, fuel pump drive module and the dreaded drive shaft coupling every 30k miles. I replace rotors every time I replace pads. There was a TSB on the rear caliper holders on wrong side of vehicle from factory. Brakes were gone at 8k miles. It would hold brakes on a slight amount. Van weighs 8900 loaded. I love my van but maintenance has been costly.
question, for the caliper guide pin bolts theres top and bottom? because i took them out and i see the difference between those two, but i forgot which one was top and bottom. TIA
The wrong one in the wrong.hole will look off and not fit the same vs the other
You have me questioning myself now, I'm trying to log into for online and it's not letting me
One will fit better in one spot vs the other
Gotta pay attention when doing these jobs for sure....maybe when I get to work I'll be able to log in or maybe site is down
Not sure but remind me in a bit
@Ford Boss Me thanks a lot.
Do you have to ad any greece on the axle on 2019 ford transit 250 ecoboost
No
Thanks bro
I bet once you do them a time or two you and can book right along with them. Looks like changing them would be enjoyable. 🙂🐶
It seems like every 14k to 20k miles, rear brakes are smoked. I found out those bolts are torque to yield for a reason I had an axel shaft and wheel come loose big whoops axel was destroyed.
Thank you for sharing. Always love you & your knowledge. How’s the house going?
Moving along crossing fingers
@@FordBossMe that’s good. I’m praying for you too
Nice video, how much do all the bolts end up costing? Also if a snow storm was on it's way id rather leave the van in your heated shop than outdoors in the snow :)
I think extra 20$ or so
I don't know what it is but these and the 11 to 19 explorers eat rear brakes like they're nothing. I wonder if they'll last longer if the slide pins and hardware are cleaned and lubricated every 5k as a maintenance item.
I rarely see a slide pin issue
@@FordBossMe yeah most of the time the pads are rusted in place on the hardware. I have had several older F150s with slide pins stuck in the bracket since people either don't lubricate them when their brakes are done or they're so old they just get stuck in there.
Hi,
Do you have to replace the spilled fluid when removing the axle?
you're supposed to but really it's never really low enough to do so
I always pull the plug just to make sure and as long as it's even with the plug you don't need to put anything in
need to run a cheek poker 9000 on that bracket!
Them mac hammers are my favorite, bought the snap ons but they do not hit near as hard. Just did them brakes and another tech told me they need them around every 30k like damn thats alot of money every 30k
Mac branded but Stanley owned Really it's a PROTO ANTIVIBE which is still owned by Stanley when you order it
@@FordBossMe oh I know. Just saying they are the best hammer I've used
@@niteninja0133 same I agree just dropping so knowledge wasn't sure if you knew
Someone else will learn from the statement I'm sure
How much does it cost for parts and labor
That was a single rear wheel transit right ? At 13:41 you had the torque sequence pulled up for a dual rear wheel in the workshop manual
I fixed it lol, that day was a rough day for me
Ok. So before finding these videos. I torqued new axle bolts to 50 ft lbs then went to 80. Didnt seem like needed to many degrees more to acheive this. Your opinion on this? 2020 250 srw
Are those rotors made out of some phenolic material or is the camera playing tricks on my eyeballs 👀?
It's painted
I bought the “euro” designed Transit instead of the defunct Econoline .. this is what I got now. Oof, pull the rear axle to replace rotors…
Ooo. Watch your toes!
Do they chew up rear brakes because of the TCS and anti wind 🌬 stuff?
It feels like it’s the rears that brake when the tcs goes off if swerving.
But for the wind the rear brakes too?
Seems like there's a problem with equalizing fluid. If the back brakes are doing all the work, something needs to be equalized.
I understand the Ford recommended replacement of those flange bolts considering location, but it's probably not needed. Better safe than sorry though, even though I'm sure most mom and pop shops that do this won't even replace them. Most OEM Ford fasteners are grade 10, which is extremely hard.
What's more alarming is the SHORT lifespan of rear brakes on these. They must use the cheap junk, that's how many miles I get out of rock auto cheapo rear pads for my 2000 Explorer. Used to be the OEM that lasted 150-200K miles.
You can be your own judge
These are torque to yield bolts
@@FordBossMe Meh, even I said better safe than sorry. I just found that to be excessive. Maybe one could do a breaking ft. pounds test to determine it.
I've seen Chrysler actually reuse TTY bolts on occasion, always amazed me.
One handed bandit, grab the shaft, slide it in….nice commentary 😂
Im kinda surprised those Ford Heavy Duty Pads are rated EE. I would think they would be rated GG since these vans get loaded heavy.
Wow those are TINY for such a big vehicle that probably spends a lot of time loaded down
I’ve changed dozens of these. They are worn down at 20-30k. It’s good for us techs but sucks for the customers.
My Chevy Express had 86,000 miles and I only had to replace front pads around 70,000 I sold it at 86,000 miles and it still had the original back pads on it. Now I have a 2015 transit with 46,000 and the back pads are metal to metal.
I'm appold! Who designs a rotor that requires an axel removal to change? Why change a tried a true hub assembly (like on any 3/4 or 1 ton truck. You risk damaging an axel (what it it falls over or something) or testing a seal. I hate when a well working system is replaced with an inferior one for the sake of trying to save money (I assume)
I think the caliber bolts torque to 23 ft. Lbs not 45 ft. Lbs that might be the reason they broke. I think you said 45 ft. Lbs on the caliber bolts .
Ehhh
I love it u need 10 bolts but they sell em In 4 packs wtf happens every time!!
I’d rather be doing rear brakes on those over the front. Brakes all around is a good ticket though.
When I do the front side pull out the on car lathe if I can
But yeah you are right the fronts are a pain
I hate the new brake clean the EPA makes us use. Stuff is like water. And even though they say "Low VOC", the fumes are way worse because it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. It just sits around for forever stinking up where I'm working on the ground. I wish I bought cases of the good stuff before it became illegal.
I hate when I see guys tools all over the floor like that, I use to be like that before I got my service tray and man is it nice to have my cart/service table.
Don't make comments about other people's stuff Larry just he here to support me and be part of the family
It's not hurting you or anyone else just keep that to yourself, it doesn't do anything for either one of us
@@FordBossMe no hate man I’m just saying I use to do that and since I got my cart it’s so much nicer and I’ve been more efficient sorry about that
He'll learn the hard way when his back hurts so much he can't bend over anymore. Think smart while you're young and it won'e hurt as bad when you're old.
That's a weird looking axle hub!
New rotors required at 30k? Glad I sold my Transit.
Unfortunately
Could have replaced the brake pads with Akebono heavy duty ones for delivery , taxi , ambulance and police service , frequent hard stops .
Who could have?
If your assuming I could have you'd be wrong ... I can't just order what ever I want and say ohkayyyyy here we are
Company has guidelines - also when you see BLUE pads like these ( they are severe service heavy duty polices style etc etc ).
Those pads look way too small for that size of vehicle. No wonder why they're worn at less than 30k.
Yeah that is strange I had about 68 on my f150 before changing. Have 140,000 now. Original rotors, second set of pads
28K miles?? rear brakes?? seems like something else it wrong, seeing that on most vehicles read brakes do at most 30% braking?
That's a construction truck that often gets loaded down there's nothing else going on stop trying to overthink everything
design flaw, proportioned too heavy on the rears. Ford didn't have this problem on the E series vans. Plus now they can sell more parts
The heavy rear brake bias on this vehicle is on purpose, prevents nose diving on such a tall vehicle. Helps with stability. Currently doing brakes on a 2020 250, 85,000 miles, still serviceable material left on the rear pads. I’ve owned five of these, and I have never had a set go out as fast as a lot of people are saying… Usually somewhere in the 80+ thousand mile range before doing the first set of rear pads for us.
I've never seen a oem pad go that quick. Wow must be undersized for the application
I changed them at 27,000km one time
I’ve never had pads go under 50k. Even cheap aftermarket pads
I have a company transit T150 that loaded up with tools and my rear pads went out at 90k but still driving with the original fronts at 133k today.
It all depends on the driver and loads. I’m an easy coming to stops with the van. Overall the transit in my opinion is pretty reliable. The Wisconsin roads give it a beating.
Seems a little ridiculous to have to pull the axle to change a rotor. Maybe I'm just stuck in the past, haha
You want a one ton floating axle or not? The bearings are beefy on these.
You show a lot of parts but less of the actual steps to do the job.
People watch these vids as they don’t see or show how hard some jobs are.
I've got like four videos on this and nobody else complained in the comments section about learning how to do the job other than you so yeah I'm not going to take anything you say as worth anything I should be listening to or else everybody would be complaining about that
Why?, because engineers need a job.
Does it work any better? No.
The turd van...