Hi Matt - how do you adjust toe height on a binding that has no screw on the top of the toe? My son has Look NX7 GW bindings. They are compatible with ISO 5355 Alpine Racing boots. His boot toe has too large a gap between the sole and the anti-friction device. There is no screw on top of the binding to make the adjustment.
When I place the boot into the binding I then pull the boot back and upwards to insure the the toe lug is in contact with the top part of the toe piece. This method insurers there is no excess space before you perform your feeler gauge test. Also be sure to put the boot back in and double check the .5 mm slip card. Always double check forward pressure adjustment. This is standard procedure fo all binding certification test for professional binding technicians.
In case of old Salomon 797 bindings, what if you raise the height enough so the top falls off? I had to do it to put screws under the head and idk how to put it back
I don't know exactly. It would depend on the thread pitch of the screw. It's probably a metric screw, maybe M6 or M8. Those typically have thread pitches somewhere between 0.8mm and 1.5 mm, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 1mm per turn.
Shops will provide a calibration test to determine that the lateral & upward newton-meter force matches the DIN & may adjust the DIN based on the results of the calibration test.
Thank you, very helpful. Although, it appears my bindings do not have a toe cup adjustment. Could this be because of a newer binding model? i.e., Rossignol Xelium 110
@@mattculik That seems what it might be like but from my experience with my new Rossignol Xpress 10 bindings that seem they should be automatic, they aren't actually working properly. Doing the business card test on them I can see that it is clamped down pretty frickin hard. I can't pull out the business card without ripping it. I'm just going to take them to a technician and they can figure out wth is going on with them.
Hey Matt, I’m on Marker Sole ID bindings. My toe height becomes loose after a while of skiing hard. I’m able to readjust with a screwdriver but I can’t keep doing this. Any idea of what to do?
Unfortunately, I'm not sure. When I adjust mine, the screw is tight, which means either the toe cup is riding in a tight vertical track within the binding, the screw is using some kind of nyloc/plastic thread forming setup, or the screw is pre-loaded with a spring (or some combo of these). My guess would be either or both of the first two, and therefore I'd guess that yours might just be worn out and thus not gripping like it used to. Or perhaps the plastic got brittle and broke, loosening things up. Those are just my guesses. If I were you, I'd take your bindings to a pro. Last thing you need is for your boot to come out unexpectedly. Wish I could be more helpful. Good luck!
Thanks for doing this video, as info like this is difficult to find even on UA-cam. But can I ask where you get the 0.5mm figure from? Is this the official manufacturer's recommendation?
It's difficult because there are legal issues. Most adjustable toe pieces you can use a playing card. Ace of Spades is your best bet. Then the best bet of all is to check the manual from the binding maker!
Sagina1999 As I have one of the Marker 'royal family' bindings, maybe I'd be better with the King of Clubs! I take your point on consulting the manufacturer's manual, but I can't find anything online except general sales info. Do you know where I might track down such manuals? Where did you find info on your bindings?
Benzknees In the box! Try to email the makers. Many Markers have no toe height adjustment, but some do. If the bindings are old they may not provide any info as they will be off the indemnified list. If there is no toe height, then all you need to check is the forward pressure. Maybe ask the question on 'EpicSki" or Teton Gravity. Photos will help in that case. Good luck.
Sagina1999 Good advice. I found an excellent thread on Teton Gravity from 2008, all about adjusting the Marker Duke, which applies equally to the Baron, F12 and F10. The posters on there also suggest using a piece of paper or thin card, after first winding down the AFD height and then bringing it back up. Also, for anyone else reading this, they confirm the correct procedure for adjusting the forward pressure screw. Thanks!
Toe height adjustment on bindings that require this procedure is relatively simple for a certified technician. Some models of each brand of bindings may require this adjustment. Some binding models require per load of the toe piece which should be checked visually by the technician. I have been a professional binding technician for many decades and still need recertifications for every brand we service every two years. We change $20 for and adjustment and release check. Money well spent! This is much less than you would pay to have the brakes on you car or your heating system in your home inspected and adjusted. Just Saying.
thomas medeiros - Totally agree that it’s money well spent to have your bindings adjusted and tested professionally. If you watch my other video, I say that in the first few minutes of the video. The reason I got into this whole thing is because my ski shop said my bindings were too old for them to service. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in a position to buy new bindings and decided that, for me personally, the risk of old/mis-adjusted/mis-calibrated bindings was one I was willing to take. Figured other people might be in the same boat, so I made these videos.
@@mattculik Your absolutely correct about shops working on old equipment. They only want to scare skiers and sell them new equipment. Unless old equipment was completely abused, left out in the weather all rusted up, they can work still. I have and ski on equipment that is from 1980. I have Look and Salomon bindings that are great. I will up grade next season after renting new demo ski's and they are easier on my body for carving. I'm even thinking to mount my old Hi end bindings on new ski blanks. Thanks for the great video.
Hi Matt - how do you adjust toe height on a binding that has no screw on the top of the toe? My son has Look NX7 GW bindings. They are compatible with ISO 5355 Alpine Racing boots. His boot toe has too large a gap between the sole and the anti-friction device. There is no screw on top of the binding to make the adjustment.
When I place the boot into the binding I then pull the boot back and upwards to insure the the toe lug is in contact with the top part of the toe piece. This method insurers there is no excess space before you perform your feeler gauge test. Also be sure to put the boot back in and double check the .5 mm slip card. Always double check forward pressure adjustment. This is standard procedure fo all binding certification test for professional binding technicians.
In case of old Salomon 797 bindings, what if you raise the height enough so the top falls off?
I had to do it to put screws under the head and idk how to put it back
Fantastic vids. Thanks! My local shops won't service my bindings either even though they've barely been used - but I'll fix that. :)
Thanks! Great video, as was its predecessor! Any idea how much a turn of the screw changes the height?
I don't know exactly. It would depend on the thread pitch of the screw. It's probably a metric screw, maybe M6 or M8. Those typically have thread pitches somewhere between 0.8mm and 1.5 mm, so probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 1mm per turn.
Shops will provide a calibration test to determine that the lateral & upward newton-meter force matches the DIN & may adjust the DIN based on the results of the calibration test.
my toe cup splits when i bind my fischer boots .I have fischer fun cruzar Fun M boots with rs 9 slr bindings. you know why it splits?
Thank you, very helpful. Although, it appears my bindings do not have a toe cup adjustment. Could this be because of a newer binding model? i.e., Rossignol Xelium 110
Though I'm not 100% certain, I believe this adjustment is automatic on newer/nicer bindings.
@@mattculik That seems what it might be like but from my experience with my new Rossignol Xpress 10 bindings that seem they should be automatic, they aren't actually working properly. Doing the business card test on them I can see that it is clamped down pretty frickin hard. I can't pull out the business card without ripping it. I'm just going to take them to a technician and they can figure out wth is going on with them.
Hey Matt, I’m on Marker Sole ID bindings. My toe height becomes loose after a while of skiing hard. I’m able to readjust with a screwdriver but I can’t keep doing this. Any idea of what to do?
Unfortunately, I'm not sure. When I adjust mine, the screw is tight, which means either the toe cup is riding in a tight vertical track within the binding, the screw is using some kind of nyloc/plastic thread forming setup, or the screw is pre-loaded with a spring (or some combo of these). My guess would be either or both of the first two, and therefore I'd guess that yours might just be worn out and thus not gripping like it used to. Or perhaps the plastic got brittle and broke, loosening things up. Those are just my guesses. If I were you, I'd take your bindings to a pro. Last thing you need is for your boot to come out unexpectedly. Wish I could be more helpful. Good luck!
How to do it on Marker m 8.1 ?
Thanks for doing this video, as info like this is difficult to find even on UA-cam. But can I ask where you get the 0.5mm figure from? Is this the official manufacturer's recommendation?
It's difficult because there are legal issues. Most adjustable toe pieces you can use a playing card. Ace of Spades is your best bet.
Then the best bet of all is to check the manual from the binding maker!
Sagina1999 As I have one of the Marker 'royal family' bindings, maybe I'd be better with the King of Clubs!
I take your point on consulting the manufacturer's manual, but I can't find anything online except general sales info. Do you know where I might track down such manuals? Where did you find info on your bindings?
Benzknees
In the box! Try to email the makers. Many Markers have no toe height adjustment, but some do. If the bindings are old they may not provide any info as they will be off the indemnified list. If there is no toe height, then all you need to check is the forward pressure. Maybe ask the question on 'EpicSki" or Teton Gravity. Photos will help in that case. Good luck.
Sagina1999 Good advice. I found an excellent thread on Teton Gravity from 2008, all about adjusting the Marker Duke, which applies equally to the Baron, F12 and F10. The posters on there also suggest using a piece of paper or thin card, after first winding down the AFD height and then bringing it back up. Also, for anyone else reading this, they confirm the correct procedure for adjusting the forward pressure screw. Thanks!
Benzknees
Victory!
Thanks to +Scott Philbrook for pointing out that I missed this adjustment in my other video.
Toe height adjustment on bindings that require this procedure is relatively simple for a certified technician. Some models of each brand of bindings may require this adjustment. Some binding models require per load of the toe piece which should be checked visually by the technician. I have been a professional binding technician for many decades and still need recertifications for every brand we service every two years. We change $20 for and adjustment and release check. Money well spent! This is much less than you would pay to have the brakes on you car or your heating system in your home inspected and adjusted. Just Saying.
thomas medeiros - Totally agree that it’s money well spent to have your bindings adjusted and tested professionally. If you watch my other video, I say that in the first few minutes of the video. The reason I got into this whole thing is because my ski shop said my bindings were too old for them to service. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in a position to buy new bindings and decided that, for me personally, the risk of old/mis-adjusted/mis-calibrated bindings was one I was willing to take. Figured other people might be in the same boat, so I made these videos.
@@mattculik Your absolutely correct about shops working on old equipment. They only want to scare skiers and sell them new equipment. Unless old equipment was completely abused, left out in the weather all rusted up, they can work still. I have and ski on equipment that is from 1980. I have Look and Salomon bindings that are great. I will up grade next season after renting new demo ski's and they are easier on my body for carving. I'm even thinking to mount my old Hi end bindings on new ski blanks. Thanks for the great video.
noone else explains it